Footsteps, Food and History

Discoveries Just a few minutes into our walk on the outskirts of Volterra and the Tuscan countryside is simply stunning FTooutstsepcs,a foond y: and history Following in Bonaparte’s boot-steps, Clive Nicholls savours a walking holiday in Italy that combines hiking, history – and hedonism PHOTOGRAPHY: CLIVE NICHOLLS t 34 CHOICE OCTOBER 2019 OCTOBER 2019 CHOICE 35 Discoveries Clockwise: The island of Elba – 20 miles across the sea are the snow-capped mountains of Corsica; a short stop to top up water bottles; Jackie from Hedonistic Hiking is the perfect group leader t HE SUN is shining, I’m walks with visits to historic towns and daylight left, I pick up a map from foundations have been adjusted and The light has gone and as I head back to My Italian is non-existent but I meet a high up in the hills on the cities. Not only that, it’s fine dining all the reception and head out. strengthened but it’s a fine balance. If the hotel I stop at an open-air bar for a couple who seem happy to practise their island of Elba enjoying way with fabulous picnics, the best of I know I’ve got a guided tour in the the engineers straighten the tower too glass of wine, just as the nightlife takes English skills – we share a bottle of wine one of the most restaurants and lashings of wonderful morning but I’m impatient and can’t wait much, they lose a tourist attraction. If over from tourist time. and a few slices of pizza – and it’s a spectacular walks of my life. Italian wines. – this is Pisa after all. Camera in hand, I they don’t, they come back one “Across the sea, the snow- wonderful evening. I start my holiday TAcross the sea, the snow-capped Let me turn the clock back a turn left onto the Corso Italia, cross the morning and find a pile of rubble. proper in the morning, meeting the group capped mountains of Corsica mountains of Corsica are clearly visible week to the start of my Tuscan adventure River Arno by the Ponte di Mezzo, Whatever they’ve done works for me at Pisa station. They are all so welcoming, and to my left is the island of as my plane touches down in Pisa in the through the Piazza dei Cavalieri and there and I share the last of the light with a are clearly visible and to my left and the tour leaders, Jackie and Annabel, Montecristo. It’s truly spectacular and late afternoon. it is – the Leaning Tower. The crowds Chinese couple taking selfies is the island of Montecristo. are so warm, friendly and organised – it’s rather wonderful, and I do indeed take I catch the shuttle into the city centre. have gone, the sunlight is fading and it’s pretending to hold up the tower. They It’s one of those moments going to be a great holiday. time out to smell the roses – a lifetime My hotel is just a short stroll from the just stunning. hand me their camera and ask me to when you need to take a deep Our guide for Pisa, Alessandra, is the memory. I’m in Tuscany in north-west station and a friendly policeman is spot on How it’s still standing is a miracle – take their picture. I take a bit of trouble best, full of information but importantly Italy on a fantastic Hedonistic Hiking with his directions. well, not quite; there’s been a bit of to get exactly what they want and they breath and realise just how we always seem to be in the right place at walking holiday that combines beautiful Checked in and with an hour of intervention. Over the years the seem thrilled – a good moment. good life can be” the right time to miss the crowds. The t 36 CHOICE OCTOBER 2019 OCTOBER 2019 CHOICE 37 Discoveries t Clockwise: The Leaning Tower of Pisa survives another day; even the back streets of Pisa are very Italian; the towers of Lucca from the Bell Tower t 38 39 Discoveries Clockwise: A breezy day in the hills of Lucca; wild flowers in the Colline Lucchesi; cat on a hot tin roof; picnics to die for t Tower, Cathedral and Baptistery are My first walk is in the hills of Lucca, just melts in my mouth. I can see why they running in the past and my knees are not Next we head south to Volterra and so good that I want to settle in for the world-famous but there’s so much more – gently rolling through vineyards, olive call it Hedonistic Hiking. what they used to be, so I opt to spend the walk in the Val di Cecina. The weather evening – but we’ve got to eat. it’s a great city. groves and wildflower meadows. We meet Puccini, the opera composer, former day in Lucca. I walk the city walls before is changeable but the strong breeze In the morning we set off on a longish walk, We move on to the walled city of Lucca a local couple on the doorstep of their resident of Lucca, (he died in 1924) and breakfast and later, map in hand, tour the creates an ever-changing pattern in the a touch over 11 miles, but my knees are at the foot of the Apuan Alps, and the fine farmhouse. Jackie has to translate for me serial womaniser, has left the world an city. The Bell Tower gives amazing views rolling grasslands. feeling good and the sun is shining as the dining starts in style with homemade pasta but they are so welcoming and it’s a opera legacy with works including and churches seem to pop up on every It’s a great day for walking and I really wonderful Tuscan countryside beckons. stuffed with ricotta cheese sautéed with privilege to be part of their world. Madame Butterfly and La Bohème . Now, corner. I take coffee in the Piazza don’t want it to end, but at least it’s a grand We finish the walk in San Gimignano melted butter and zucchini. This is I also meet a pretty tabby cat dozing on a I’m not an opera sort of guy but when in Napoleone and watch the locals going finish with a wine tasting hosted by local with its 13th century walls, magical square followed by baby goat on the spit with car roof. She’s a bit wary but doesn’t seem Lucca – I go to a concert of Puccini about their day-to-day business. aficionado Massimo. and probably the best ice-cream in the world. artichoke pudding, and topped off to mind a bit of attention – just as well as I classics. I’m still not a convert but as an In the evening the meal is fabulous. I go I’m beginning to understand Italian Former gelato world champion Sergio with baked and caramelised fruit and don’t take no for answer. It’s a beautiful experience it’s amazing. for the breast of wood pigeon. It’s a first for wines a little better and I’m soon on the Dondoli has his ice-cream parlour here. I chestnut ice-cream. All washed down with walk and the picnic is just amazing. It’s In the morning it’s the optional tough me and it’s melt-in-the-mouth gorgeous – ball when he produces the real classy wait for the queue to drop back before the best of Italian wines – not bad, eh? really a banquet and the roasted asparagus walking day of the week. I’ve done a bit of not so good for the wood pigeon, of course. bottles. He’s so enthusiastic and the wine I join them to order my Dandoli special. t 40 CHOICE OCTOBER 2019 OCTOBER 2019 CHOICE 41 Discoveries t Clockwise: The bay of Biodola on Elba; lunch stop at a countryside villa; back streets of Lucca; Collegiate Church in San Gimignano; Bolgheri; Pisa Baptistry of St John t 42 43 Discoveries Clockwise: Portoferraio on Elba; war memorial in Volterra; fine dining in Lucca; my one-legged seagull; family time in San Gimignano; Puccini classics in Lucca; Etruscan museum in Volterra t It’s served with a flourish with all the the village of Bolgheri at the centre of one “Napoleon was exiled on Elba It’s squally on the way over but as the green beans for main course. I’m eating so Tyrrhenian Sea to my left. The weather is trimmings and tastes spectacularly good – of Tuscany’s most exciting wine regions. ferry docks in Portoferraio the evening sun much but I just can’t resist it. Isn’t that kind and visibility is 20 miles or more; truth be known after a long, hot walk a The lunch here is wonderful but the in 1814, and a tour through his makes an appearance. I’m staying at the what holidays are for anyway? dining al fresco has never been better. Wall’s choc ice would taste pretty good, accompanying wine is out of this world. mansion suggests that, despite Hotel Hermitage on the waterfront in My final hike on the island of Elba is The last day is a non-hiking one but is too, but it’s all part of the fun. At 280 euros a bottle (about £260 at the being in exile, he certainly lived the bay of Biodola. There’s an hour before where I started my story.

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