CENTRAL MONTENEGRO a Punch
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© Lonely Planet Publications 120 Central Montenegro You can’t really say you’ve been to Montenegro if you haven’t visited the region that has always been its physical, spiritual and political heartland. A distinct Montenegrin (as opposed to Ser- bian) identity formed here from the crucible of resistance to Ottoman hegemony represented by Lovćen, the black mountain. As the Ottoman Empire waned, Montenegro spread first into these lands and it’s here that the independent Montenegrin spirit remains strongest. To reach central Montenegro from the coast you’ll first have to skirt two wonderful national parks that provide every excuse for a back-to-nature diversion. Mountainous Lovćen and voluminous Lake Skadar don’t have much in common apart from their natural gorgeous- ness, but these important habitats shelter many species that have a hard time surviving in modern Europe, including bears, wolves and the Dalmatian pelican. For mammals of the two-legged variety, both parks provide ample opportunity for active pursuits, whether that be hiking, mountain biking, swimming, windsurfing or kayaking. Behind the parks are the two capitals, the ancient current one (Podgorica, founded by the Romans) and the newer former one (Cetinje, the royal city). Together they offer the chance to get better acquainted with Montenegrin art and history in their richly endowed galleries and museums. Continue into the hinterland and you’ll reach Ostrog Monastery. In a country with a seemingly endless supply of religious sites, none comes close to Ostrog either in spiritual significance or sheer impressiveness. Central Montenegro may not quite have the pulling power of the coast but it still packs a punch. HIGHLIGHTS Marvelling at the majesty of both the Piva Canyon mountains and the monument at the Njegoš Mausoleum ( p122 ) CENTRAL MONTENEGRO Diving through Montenegrin history and culture in Cetinje’s museums ( p123 ) Ostrog Monastery Gazing in wonder at the improbable cliff-face construction of Ostrog Monastery ( p133 ) Cruising the sparkling waters of Lake Skadar Cetinje ( p126 ) Njegoš Mausoleum Rijeka Crnojevi™a Feasting on the sublime seafood and serene setting of Rijeka Crnojevića ( p127 ) Lake Skadar Travelling between the sheer cliffs and green depths of the Piva Canyon ( p136 ) lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL MONTENEGRO 121 0 30 km CENTRAL MONTENEGRO 0 20 miles Š™epan Ce Drina Leovo Brdo ho Polje tina Pljevlja Polje Crkviøko L j Ohac ub iš nj Nikovi™i a Mataruge Piva Durmitor Radovan National Luka Tara Trsa Park Canyon D åurovac urm (1625m) PluÅine ito Kosanica Vrulja Gacko r Æabljak Boriøje Ður‹evi™a Tara Piva Njegovu‹a Splavište Goransko Monastery Bobotov Kuk (2523m) BOSNIA & Savin Zminica HERCEGOVINA Kuk Rudnice Treskavac (2313m) (2093m) Bajovo K o Polje m Bukovica a Tar rn a Zlostup ic Dobrilovina Golija a DuÅi Gosli™ (1935m) Šavnik Timar Bistrica Mokro Krnja Jela Somina Jasenovo Polje Si N nj j aje Bile™a eg Ravna vin oš Vlaka Kapa a Praga Moraøka Redice (1721m) M Gvozd (2227m) o ra Trepøa Vir ø Lake a E762 Krupac Raško Nikši™ Kuside PodboÅur Most Lake na Moštanici Liverovi™i Vilusi Slansko To Trebinje Me‹urijeøje Lastva Osjeøenica Pusti Morakovo Kolašin; Lisac Belgrade To (1475m) Ostrog Dubrovnik Grahovo Monastery Lisac (1586m) Ubli Izvori Han Zagorak Øavtat Jablan CROATIA Sitnica Gorica Øevo Crkvice Ledenice Danilovgrad Grab Risan SpuÅ Bioøe Moraøa Canyon CENTRAL MONTENEGRO Kameno Morinj Perast Resna Bijela Herceg Dobrota Njegoš Štitari Buronji Novi Bay of Tivat Mausoleum Kotor Rose Kotor Podgorica Radovi™i Njeguši Cetinje Tivat Podgorica C Lov™en Rijeka Zeta ijevna Airport (1749m) C Airport Tuzi Crnojevi™a rnojevi™Rvaši Lov™en Ivanova Brida National Korita BoÅa Hani i Park Golubovci Hotit Rijeøani Æabljak Budva Beøi™i Crnojevi™a Podhum Zagora Plavnica Ljašaj Sveti Virpazar Vranjina Stefan Lake Adriatic Skadar National Kopljik Sea Petrovac Park Rumija Muri™i Sutomore Bobovište Brca Tu‹emili Bar Ckla Peøurice Muricani Krute Vladimir Sukobin Kru™e Ulcinj ALBANIA.