Interview: Carlos Eduardo Corrêa Nogueira

arlos Eduardo Corrêa Nogueira is the Director for International Affairs of the Brazilian Miolo, one of largest in Cthe country. In this interview to Flavors from Bra- zil, Nogueira comments on the quality of Brazil- ian and tells us a little about the successful history of grape cultivation and the production of fine in Brazil. According to the- agro nomic engineer, Brazil’s winery tradition is little known abroad. There is still some resistance in some markets, despite its high quality standards. Nogueira describes some initiatives that are be- ing undertaken to break the stereotypes that are, in many cases, imposed on Brazilian wine in or- der for it to enjoy the same international success that Brazilian cachaça and caipirinha do.

Flavors from Brazil 159 Barrels. Source: Vinícola Miolo Ltda 160 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 FB: What are the origins of Brazilian wine production? As an effective CECN: The first register of winegrowing commercial activity, in Brazil dates back to 1538 with Brás Cubas, on the coast of São Paulo, who began to study the winegrowing started development of this culture. Afterwards, some in 1875 with Italian seedlings were taken to others parts of the coun- try by the Jesuits. The culture established itself in immigration to Brazil. the region of Sete Povos das Missões and on the islands of the estuary of the Guaíba River in Rio tity for the representation of national wine cul- Grande do Sul, south of Brazil. However, as an tivation for export. It is an integrated sectorial effective commercial activity, winegrowing start- program, supported by APEX (Brazilian Trade ed in 1875 with Italian immigration to Brazil. and Investment Promotion Agency), in partner- ship with other entities, such as Sebrae (Brazil- FB: In Brazil, tradition, ian Micro and Small Enterprises Bureau). The however long in existence, is still goal of Wines from Brazil is to promote Brazilian relatively unknown. What have wine abroad. Today, if I am not mistaken, there the institutions related to wine are 17 associated. These wineries get to- been doing to improve the image of gether to promote Brazilian wine internationally, Brazilian wines? by participating in fairs, doing technical visits to CECN: The institutions, nowadays, have markets, promoting special events – such as din- been working intensively on their marketing. ners coordinated with wines –, tasting events at The main idea is dissemination. Uvibra (Brazil- hotels, restaurants, and even at our own embas- ian Vitiviniculture Union), specifically, has been sies (the diplomatic staff have been very helpful). working at a national level for 40 years. It is the At the international level, these are the main ac- main forum for the protection of Brazilian wine- tivities. growing and for government relations. Their main task, which we would like to develop even FB: Which markets are more receptive further, is to promote Brazilian wine through ad- and which are more indifferent to vertising campaigns, the promotion of wine con- Brazilian wine? sumption and of its health benefits. This is the CECN: The most receptive markets are main goal of the organizations besides protect- the ones that are traditional consumers of wine, ing the industry and working with government namely, Europe and the United States. These al- to elaborate sectorial policies. ready mature markets recognize good quality. There is no use in trying to sell a good quality FB: Is there a marketing plan by product to someone who does not recognize it. Uvibra or wine producers? How is it The more mature markets are the ones that ac- carried out, particularly abroad? cept our product, essentially because Brazilian CECN: Dissemination abroad is done wine today presents an excellent cost/benefit ra- through Wines from Brazil, which is our big en- tio, mainly in the premium and higher catego-

Flavors from Brazil 161 This is the main situation with Brazilian wines. This large diversity, So, more mature markets that recognize quality, not only of climate but that can open two bottles of wine and say: “well, this one is worth more than the other”, these are also of soil, and even the most receptive markets. cultural, enables us The less-receptive markets are the less-ma- ture markets that still don’t know wines and buy to have a very large them according to reputation. Since Brazil does diversity in production, not have a strong winery tradition and is not yet an internationally acclaimed large producer of thus offering products wine, it frequently suffers from prejudice and is that other countries, not able to penetrate emerging markets, such as China and Latin America, which do not yet have traditional producers, the culture and the habit of consuming wine. cannot. Our main markets are: the United States, Swit- zerland, France, Germany and England. All tra- ditional producers of wine, except England. ries. Brazil is not currently positioning itself to compete price-wise with Argentina and Chile, FB: Besides the fact that Brazilian mainly because of a production volume issue. wine is still relatively unknown, what Brazil produces around 40 million liters of fine other challenges does the promotion wine, while Argentina produces 1.2 billion and of Brazilian wine face abroad? Chile 900 million. They are able to produce wine CECN: The first challenge is to transform at lower prices due to the large economy of scale. Brazil into a well-known wine producer. We must Nevertheless, in terms of quality, given its diverse develop in the minds of international consumers climate, Brazil produces wine from the extreme the idea that to talk about wine and Brazil in the South to the Northeast. In Chile and Argentina, same context is not absurd. This still happens for example, all the are irrigated with today, although it is now changing. The second cold water from the Andes; in Australia, the ma- step is to show that Brazilian wine is a high qual- jority of the vineyards are found in semi-desert ity product and that it presents an above average areas. This large diversity, not only of climate cost/benefit ratio. Nowadays Brazil focuses on but also of soil, and even cultural, enables us to wines with premium quality or higher, with add- have a very large diversity in production, thus ed value. Thus, our second challenge is precisely offering products that other countries, - tradi to enable international consumers to recognize tional producers, cannot. This has been our great the quality that we offer. The third challenge, at a differential for the external market. We are not more advanced phase, is to be able to differenti- presenting ourselves as one more producer who ate the internal regions of Brazil for international has arrived to sell cheap wine; we present differ- consumers. Some years of presentation and com- entiated, sophisticated wines with added value. munication of the Brazilian product abroad will

162 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 . Source: Vinícola Miolo Ltda Flavors from Brazil 163 Francisco River Valley, which includes the whole Nowadays Brazil focuses production zone of the Northeast. The idea is to on wines with premium enlarge and create new production zones, mainly with the development of the region. In Santa Ca- quality or higher, with tarina, for example, much has been done so that added value. Thus, soon it may become a production zone and, who knows, acquire some denominations of origin. our second challenge is precisely to enable FB: Many specialists stated that Brazil would not be able to produce international consumers high quality wine due to its tropical to recognize the quality climate. On what are these statements based? that we offer. CECN: The New Zealanders ended this theory that quality wines could only be produced be necessary in order to enable this market to in temperate regions, between the parallels of 40° differentiate the wine produced in different- re and 45° North and South. They produce excellent gions of Brazil, such as the Vinhedos Valley, the quality wine above 45° south latitude. The Cana- Northeast region, in , and in the dians, with their ice wines, also helped to over- Campanha region in . We hope throw the theory. I believe that the Northeast is that, in the future, these regional specificities will going to end this idea once and for all. In reality, be recognized, as occurs in the majority of coun- there is universality in grape production. It has tries that have reached this advanced stage. already been perfectly proven that grapes can be produced from Greenland to the Northeast of FB: Are there denominations of Brazil. Countries which were jokes in the wine origin in Brazil? Which ones? producing world, such as England, of which was CECN: Yes. The first denomination of ori- said: “it is as rare as English wine”, today pro- gin that was developed in Brazil, Vinhedos Val- duce excellent wine. This lobby of a preferential ley, dates from 2001. It is a geographical indica- region was overturned many years ago. Today tion. Other regions are working in this sense, but Brazil, with its continental dimension, produces currently, with the approval of the INPI (Brazil- wine everywhere except in the Amazon. In other ian National Institute of Intellectual Property) as parts of the country there are very interesting a geographical indication, only Vinhedos Valley production regions, very interesting wines, very for now. There are in Brazil, several production well developed projects that have been advanc- zones, which are mandatory for export, with- ing rapidly. out which the market does not recognize a fine wine. They are: the border production zone, that FB: At which stage is the grape encompasses the south of Rio Grande do Sul; cultivation project of the São the production zone of the mountain area of Rio Francisco River today? Many people Grande do Sul; and the production zone of the São have said that it wouldn’t be possible

164 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 Thus, we can observe that this project is not a re- Jancis Robinson, the cent invention, as it has been developed for 67 main English wine years. It is not a challenge or a curiosity anymore, but a reality. Jancis Robinson, the main English critic, commented on wine critic, commented on the quality of wines the quality of wines produced in the Northeast of Brazil saying that they had developed many varieties, which were produced in the Northeast very unique and adapted to the region. Among of Brazil saying that these we can mention the Shiraz and the Mus- catel. What we are seeking in the Northeast are they had developed new varieties of grapes adapted to the region to many varieties, which broaden the scope of production. However, the varieties already planted, like Cabernet Sauvi- were very unique and gnon, Shiraz, Muscatels and , are adapted to the region. fully developed, they are in the international market and are recognized. Among these we can mention the Shiraz and FB: Where does the majority of Brazilian wine production come from? the Muscatel. CECN: One can say that the majority of national wine production, about 90% of the fine to produce quality grapes in the wines, comes from Rio Grande do Sul. Only 5 to region, but, currently, it produces 7% of the production is concentrated in the Bra- two harvests per year. zilian Northeast. In Brazil, there is a striking dif- CECN: Exactly. This project of the São Fran- ference between fine wine and regular wine. Just cisco Valley is very interesting and very old, it so you can have an idea, the total Brazilian mar- started in the 1940s by Cinzano, which produced ket is around 350 million liters. Of these, 268 mil- vermouth in that region. In 1970, the Milano lion are regular wines that are made with hybrid Farm, of the Pérsico Pizzamiglio group, devel- American grapes. The remainder, 82 million li- oped a very interesting project which included ters are fine wines which are produced with wine wine production. In 1980, Aurora winery began a grapes (Cabernet, , , etc.). project called “Bebedouro” (water fountain) that promoted the immigration of grape producing families to the region. Currently, several projects FB: What are the main qualities of the are being undertaken in the area, such as Gar- Brazilian wine? ziera of Brazil, Garziera of Italy, Bianchetti Te- CECN: To speak of Brazilian wine as a desco, Ouro Verde, Boticelli, which is quite old, whole is complicated. We have a very large di- and more recently, Rio Sol, that came about from versity in production. We can comment on the the union of Portuguese Dão Sul, Raimundo da characteristics of the wine from the mountains Fonte group and the import company Expand. of Rio Grande do Sul or the aspects of the wine

Flavors from Brazil 165 from the Northeast or from Santa Catarina. Each Obviously, this is not totally the consum- region has very distinct characteristics. What can ers’ fault. Producers have a big responsibility in be said, however, is that the largest production is the bad perception of Brazilian wine. Only in the from Rio Grande do Sul. The main characteristics last 10 years have there been large investments in would be light wines with a strong fruity flavor. national fine wine production and an incredible They are very fruity wines, with an excellent bal- increase in its quality. Many Brazilian consum- ance between structure and acidity. Since they ers have not followed up on this evolution and are very well balanced in the alcoholic degree, still have the image that Brazilian wine is a low- they are light and pleasant to drink. But, as I said quality product. Formerly, this distorted image before, Brazil is very big. In Rio Grande do Sul was justified in some products that were offered lie the border region and the Campanha region, with low technology, but, currently, Brazil is where, due to their excellent climate and soil, ahead of many old and traditional wine produc- wines are very fruity, well structured, but with a ing countries because we have acquired what is higher alcoholic level due to the lack of rain dur- most modern in terms of winemaking; the main ing . However, in general, we can say that Brazilian wineries have international consultants the main characteristic of Brazilian wine is that that help with the development of technology. it is fruity, light bodied, with a pleasant bouquet This has enabled Brazilian wine to achieve, over and well balanced in alcoholic level. a ten-year period, an international quality level, so much so that it is recognized throughout the FB: Brazilian wines still suffer world as an exportable product. prejudice from Brazilians themselves? What is the preferred wine among FB: Are there any differences Brazilian palates? between Brazilian wines produced CECN: Yes, it still endures a great deal of for the internal market and the ones prejudice. Brazil places itself among the countries reserved for export? that are not yet mature. Our per capita consump- CECN: They are basically the same prod- tion is around 1.8 liters/year. According to 2007 uct. They are even bottled at the same time. The data, the total sale of fine wines in Brazil is of 70 difference is on the label. The one on export million liters: 22 million are national wines and wines shows the legal requirements of the coun- 48 million are imported. As to sparkling wines, try of destination. What we can observe is that, the market consumes 12 million liters: 7 mil- in regard to export wines, the market seeks and lion 600 thousand are produced nationally and consumes wines with higher added value, from 4 million 500 thousand are imported. What we premium up. have observed is that as culture grows, wine con- sumption also grows and there is a higher appre- FB: The quality of Brazilian sparkling ciation for the national production. This happens wine puts it among the best in the frequently abroad, where consumers already world. What are its characteristics? know how to recognize a good quality product. I CECN: The main production region of the believe that in Brazil this will soon be the case. sparkling wines is the mountains of Rio Grande do Sul. The varieties like Chardonnay, Pinot

166 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 dominated by cheap sparkling wines, mainly the The refreshing Spanish cavas or the Italian proseccos – products characteristic of that dominate the market at a low-price level. In relation to value added products, the French, due Brazilian sparkling to their reputation, practically dominate the mar- wines is what ket on their own. However, the market is now changing. The consumption of sparkling wines makes it distinctive which was not so large in the world, limited to internationally. We can festive occasions and celebrations, is now start- ing to include daily consumption. In Brazil, as in say that in the last five the rest of the world, bars – where years Brazil has only quality starts to be appreciated and price is im- portant – can be found. In these places, when you lost to the Champagne want quality and you are not prepared to pay a region in France in high price for it, Brazilian sparkling wines come on the scene, because they are quality products terms of number of but are not so expensive. It is in this market that international prizes. Brazil is advancing the export of its . Noir, and proseccos themselves, have adapted very well to the region because of its climate FB: Does the success of Brazilian and soil, leading to a product that is fresh and caipirinha and cachaças abroad, jovial. Brazilian sparkling wine has a pleasant almost as a patriotic icon, hinder the bouquet, and its freshness is achieved by an ex- external projection of our wines? cellent balance between structure and acidity. In CECN: Everything that you present with the regions that are not able to achieve the same quality that comes from Brazil helps the Bra- structure and acidity, the sparkling wines are zilian wine. Abroad people talk very highly of less refreshing, and the refreshing characteris- caipirinha, which is a Brazilian icon, and also in tic of Brazilian sparkling wines is what makes it our country it is considered an excellent cocktail distinctive internationally. We can say that in the drink. Different initiatives, be they related to cach- last five years Brazil has only lost to the Cham- aças, wines, fashion designers, models or soccer pagne region in France in terms of number of in- players, achieve fantastic international success. ternational prizes. Everything that is disseminated, presenting a joy- ous, sophisticated Brazil, with its positive side FB: And how is the receptiveness to in view, helps, indeed, to promote the Brazilian Brazilian sparkling wines abroad? wine. Germany, today, is one of the main caipir- CECN: The largest problem about export- inha consumers of the world, and one of the main ing sparkling wine is that Brazil does not produce markets for our cachaça, and Germany is also an regular sparkling wine, our exports are focused excellent importer of Brazilian wines. on premium sparkling wines, and the market is

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