Brazil Report T HAS BEEN a ROUGH YEAR for BRAZIL

brazil report T HAS BEEN A ROUGH YEAR FOR BRAZIL. BUT LET’S START IWITH THE GOOD NEWS. THE QUALITY OF ITS SPARKLING WINES CONTINUES TO RISE AS THEY GAIN IN CHARACTER AND

A DIVERSITY OF STYLES. On the other side, however, there’s a lack of

consistency in the still wines, both red and white. There are indeed some

very good examples, but they tend to be mixed in with wines that—the

majority of which—still have not managed to show a clear expression of

fruit and varietal identity. Brazil and its wines are still a work in progress.

Cheers!

Patricio Tapia

FOR INDIVIDUAL RESULTS, GO TO THE SEARCH ENGINE AT WWW.GUIADESCORCHADOS.CL, WHERE YOU CAN SEARCH BY WINERY, WINE, VINTAGE, ZONE, SCORE, OR WHATEVER CRITERIA YOU NEED TO APPLY. GILMAR GOMES

Vale dos Vinhedos

Getting out into the World. IN 2014, WHEN WE DECIDED to include Brazilian wines in our Descorcha- However, and just as we have said in other editions of Descorcha- dos wine guide, the first thing we thought about was the budding de- dos, the inclusion of still wines in the guide (since the 2017 edition) has velopment of sparkling wines. And that seemed to us like a good place not produced the same pleasure. I’d like to stop here for a second and to start. change the tone of this text and shift from an analysis to an opinion And since then, we have had a front row seat to the tremendous piece. I think the subject and the situation deserve it. development of Brazilian sparkling wines in every style, starting with Tasting still wines in Brazil today is similar to doing the same in simple moscatos, which, if I may say so, are the best semi-sweet bub- Argentina or Chile, but 20 years ago. And yes, it’s true there’s a climatic bles you can find in the South American market and are serious con- issue. While in Mendoza, for example, the lack of rain during the har- tenders for the best moscatos in the glob al context. vest months enables very healthy grapes, while Serra Gaúcha, on the Of course we’re excited us about the progress with moscatos, but other hand, receives 1,600 mm of rain a year and 120 mm per month we’re also impressed by the level of its most classic style, including the during the grape ripening period. “August is the driest month, with 110 traditional method with the second fermentation in the bottle, which mm of rain,” producer Alejandro Cardozo tells me. That amount of rain now shows some of the most complex and elegant examples in Latin would be considered a deluge in Mendoza. America today. For example, take a look at the work being done by We also have to add that the temperatures in that area don’t get Estrellas de Brasil or Familia Geisse, both of which show a consistency very high and never reach the 30º-plus temps found in Chile’s Central in their catalogs that we have not seen before. Valley. Therefore, the reds and whites from southern Brazil tend to have Also keep a close eye on the work by Casa Valduga and Adolfo rather low alcohol levels, as a result of temperatures that don’t surpass Lona, two of the undisputed leaders among South American sparkling 26ºC during the ripening period. With all that in mind, we return to wine producers. They and others are leading the scene, and their wines the idea that tasting still wines in Brazil today is like doing the same are a clear expression of the advances of this style in this country. in Argentina or Chile 20 years ago, when each was guilty of the sin GILMAR GOMES

Vale dos Vinhedos

of naivete and—even more importantly—remained isolated from what no doubt about it. And yes, there are some commercial managers was going on in the world. They were much more concentrated on an and even winemakers and winery owners who still think that oak is a undemanding local market, but especially, content in a way with work sign of quality and that people like it—an idea that’s at least a decade that received no criticism and that no one questioned. out of date. At the risk of seeming excessively harsh, the experience of tast- And finally, there’s the degree of ripeness. It’s obvious that under ing Brazilian reds and whites—especially the reds—can be a bit disap- certain rainy conditions, the idea of moving the harvest date up or pointing when compared with the average level of what is being pro- back often doesn’t depend on the producer, but rather on the whims duced in other Latin American countries. First, the climatic difficulties of nature. It has been very common over these years of tasting in Brazil are evident, how hard it is to obtain healthy fruit, which results in the for us to find wines that are very ripe, with tired fruit, or, to the other lack of varietal clarity in their wines. To remedy poor-quality raw ma- extreme, wines that are green, without enough fruit to support them, terial, they are forced to resort to enological products, and that is quite without the freshness of red fruits. Of all of the problems that I see in evident when it comes to seeking fruit and varietal expression. Brazil’s still wines, this is the that seems most complicated. Then there’s the matter of over-extraction. In Brazil, it seems they Before moving on to the good news, let’s look at some numbers. still have the idea that the heavier, denser, and more tannic it is, the This year we tasted a record 396 still wines. However, of those, only 46 better the resulting wine will be. And most of the time what they were selected to appear in the book. In terms of percentages, this is the obtain are wines that are unbalanced, usually in acidity, and almost worst performance we had in the four countries we tasted for the 2021 always in tannins. edition of Descorchados. Oak is another major issue. Brazil’s most ambitious wines not Perhaps because it doesn’t correspond to any of the above or, only abuse extraction, but oak as well. And very often naïvely, as if maybe because it’s proof that fresh and healthy fruit is possible, we they want to make it very clear to the consumers that they have spent chose the 2020 Clarete from Era Dos Ventos, a blend of different good money on those barrels and need them to know it—let there be red varieties from vineyards in Bento Gonçalves, as the Best Red of Luis Henrique Zanini

the year in Descorchados. This little tribute to Spanish clarets (light, This situation is not new in the guide. We have maintained direct thirst-quenching wines) is a simple, juicy red that doesn’t aim to do contact with the producers for years, and over the course of more than much more than liven up a barbecue but that also shows the talent 20 years we have seen how their wines evolve—and in our opinion, for of a producer such as Luis Henrique Zanini, who we have already the better. We have contributed to this to some degree, but I believe celebrated many times in Descorchados. And it’s not a matter of the the fundamental key to this evolution has been taking a closer look at one-eyed man being king in the land of the blind, but the truth is what’s going on in the rest of the world. And that is something we have that it’s hard to find well-balanced fresh and pleasing red wines in the not seen in Brazil. Brazilian panorama. More than a decade ago, when Argentine producers began to taste Something similar happens with the best white of the year, the reds and whites from beyond Mendoza, California or Bordeaux, it im- 2020 Revolução White Alvarinho from Guahyba Estate Wines, very mediately opened a world to them, and it showed in their work. There close to Porto Alegre. This is a new project with the consulting services was a before and after with respect to their travels and tastings in Bur- of the tireless Alejandro Cardozo, with a handful of vineyards on the gundy, Barolo, Bairrada, Galicia, Jura, and Jerez. The new flavors and banks of Guaíba Lake (River), half an hour from the city center. It’s a the interaction with producers from other latitudes changed Argentine new terroir that makes its debut with this delicious succulent and juicy wine. And the same thing happened with Chile. And in the end, those white, a clear example of the variety and proof that it’s possible to ob- trips and tastings transformed South American wine. tain a character related to the variety. It’s time, then, for Brazilian producers to take a chance, to dare, and While working on the new Brazilian edition of Descorchados, I had to try. For now, it’s hard to travel, although they do have the good for- to respond to many concerned producers asking about the absence of tune to be South America’s primary wine importer, and the offer avail- their wines in the reports. And my response, with more detail (or less), able there is worldwide. There’s no pretext here. A bit more of the world always included the reasons that we have already discussed. would result in significant—and even radical—changes. n 94 94 93 ESTRELAS DO BRASIL GEISSE ADEGA REFINARIA Nature Rosé Cave Geisse Leveduras Otto Sur Lie Nature Método Tradicional N/V Autóctones Nature 2014 2016 FARIA LEMOS PINTO BANDEIRA SERRA GAÚCHA TOP 93 93 ADOLFO LONA CASA VALDUGA Orus Pas Dosé Sur Lie Nature Rosé N/V Nature 2014 VALE DOS VINHEDOS GARIBALDI 10

93 93 ERA DOS VENTOS ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Clarete 2020 Nature BENTO GONÇALVES wines 2021 Método Tradicional N/V SERRA GAÚCHA

93 93 93 GEISSE LUIZ ARGENTA PIZZATO Cave Geisse Rosé Cave Terracota Nature 2017 Extra Brut 2017 2017 VALE DOS VINHEDOS PINTO BANDEIRA FLORES DA CUNHA [ TIED ] 94 BEST SPARKLING WINE. ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Nature Rosé Método Tradicional Pinot Noir N/V FARIA LEMOS

his nature rosé is made with 100% pinot noir from Tvineyards planted on basalt soils in the Nova Prata zone. Everything from the 2017 vintage was aged for three years on its lees under the traditional method of the second fermentation in the bottle. Additionally, 10% of the base wine was aged in barrels before the foam formed. The result is a delicate yet firm rosé with a taut structure and fruity flavors on all sides. The acidity does its part, accentuating the freshness, while the bubbles are crisp and abundant. n

Best sparkling wines of the year

93 | ADEGA REFINARIA Otto Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay 2016 | Serra Gaúcha 93 | ADOLFO LONA Orus Pas Dosé Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir, Merlot 2014 | Garibaldi 93 | ADOLFO LONA Nature Pas Dosé Método Tradicional N/V | Garibaldi 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA 130 Blanc de Blanc Chardonnay N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Nature Método Tradicional N/V | Serra Gaúcha 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Blanc de Blanc Brut Chardonnay 2018 Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Rosé Extra Brut P. Noir 2017 | Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Gran Reserva Extra Brut Vintage 2018 Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 93 | LUIZ ARGENTA Cave Terracota Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Trebbiano 2017 | Flores da Cunha 93 | PIZZATO Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2017 | Vale dos Vinhedos [ TIED ] 94 BEST SPARKLING WINE. GEISSE Cave Geisse Leveduras Autóctones Nature 2014 PINTO BANDEIRA

nce again, this new wine from Geisse doesn’t Ohave much to say, at least when it comes to the wine itself. In contact with its lees for no less than 72 months, it was fermented with native yeasts and without the addition of sulfur dioxide. They have avoided intervening in the process to make a wine in the most natural way possible, although it did undergo its second fermentation in the bottle (the “traditional” method). The result is a vinous style marked by the aromas of oxidation and nuts mixed with ripe fruits and spicy notes in a wine that’s deep and full bodied, but that’s tremendously soft and subtle at the same time. One of the best we have tried from Geisse. n

Best sparkling wines of the year

93 | ADEGA REFINARIA Otto Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay 2016 | Serra Gaúcha 93 | ADOLFO LONA Orus Pas Dosé Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir, Merlot 2014 | Garibaldi 93 | ADOLFO LONA Nature Pas Dosé Método Tradicional N/V | Garibaldi 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA 130 Blanc de Blanc Chardonnay N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Nature Método Tradicional N/V | Serra Gaúcha 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Blanc de Blanc Brut Chardonnay 2018 Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Rosé Extra Brut P. Noir 2017 | Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Gran Reserva Extra Brut Vintage 2018 Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 93 | LUIZ ARGENTA Cave Terracota Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Trebbiano 2017 | Flores da Cunha 93 | PIZZATO Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2017 | Vale dos Vinhedos 93 BEST RED. ERA DOS VENTOS Clarete 2020 BENTO GONÇALVES

little tribute to Era dos Ventos in the style of a A Spanish claret—a wine made of white and red grapes (here there are four types of red and two white) with a very low alcohol content (11.8º in this Clarete) and designed for quenching thirst. And the tribute turns out very well. It’s a light red, almost a corpulent rosé, that’s generous in fruity flavors with slightly astringent texture and crisp, juicy acidity. You should buy this wine by the case to drink chilled every day. And yes, the best Brazilian red in Descorchados this year is this wine that’s simple and unpretentious but that’s fresh and has fruity clarity—something that’s not easy to find in the Brazilian scene today. n

Best reds of the year

long the Guaíba River, just southwest of Porto AAlegre, the Guahyba Estate Wines’ albariño vineyards were on the zone’s calcareous clays soils planted in the middle of the past decade. 5% of the wine was aged in new barrels, and the rest was aged in stainless steel for a wine that has a lot of the variety’s character—the aromas of ripe peaches in a friendly, juicy body with a creamy texture that caresses the palate. It’s deep in ripe flavors, but it also has very good acidity that manages to balance it all out. A fresh and pleasing surprise from a zone that has been little explored in Brazilian wine. n

Best whites of the year

91 | CASA VALDUGA Terroir Sauvignon Blanc 2020 | Campanha Gaúcha 91 | ERA DOS VENTOS Era dos Ventos Moscato Moscato Branco 2020 Bento Gonçalves 91 | LUIZ ARGENTA Cave Chardonnay 2020 | Altos Montes 91 | MIOLO WINE GROUP Cuvée Giuseppe Chardonnay 2019 Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | PIZZATO PP Semillón 2019 | Vale dos Vinhedos 90 | GUASPARI Vale da Pedra Branco S. Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay 2019 Espírito Santo do Pinhal 90 | GUASPARI Vista do Bosque Viognier 2018 | Espírito Santo do Pinhal 90 | GUATAMBU Luar do Pampa Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Campanha Gaúcha 92 BEST ROSÉ. LUIZ ARGENTA L.A. Jovem Rosé Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah 2020 FLORES DA CUNHA

his unusual blend of pinot noir and petit sirah Tcomes from vineyards about 885 meters above sea level in the Altos Montes zone, where Luiz Argenta has been growing its grapes since the late 1990s. The bunches are pressed directly into a rosé. It’s refreshing and juicy, with firm, tense acidity and subtle floral notes. One of those rosés you won’t want to stop drinking, especially if it’s summer and even better if there’s a good selection of sashimi and nigiri on the table. Dangerously easy to drink. n

Best rosés of the year

88 | AURORA Reserva Rosé Merlot 2019 | Serra Gaúcha 87 | THERA Thera Rosé Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah 2020 Serra Catarinense 87 | VINHEDOS CAPOANI Rosé Gamay,Merlot,P. Noir 2020 Vale dos Vinhedos 86 | CASA VALDUGA Arte Blend Rosé Malbec, Gewürztraminer 2020 Serra do Sudeste 86 | MIOLO WINE GROUP Miolo Seleção Rosé Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo 2020 | Campanha Gaúcha WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR.

ALEJANDRO CARDOZO

lejandro Cardozo is a source of energy in the Brazilian wine scene. AA tireless winemaker, he arrived from his native Uruguay in 2002 to work for the Piagentini group, where he worked until 2015. But Cardo- zo is an energetic and enterprising professional and by 2006 he and Irineo Dall’Agnol had already created Estrelas do Brasil, a place where they could experiment with new techniques and styles in what is now one of the leading wineries in the production of Brazilian sparkling wines. This year in Descorchados, we have chosen the Método Tradicional Rosé Nature, 100% pinot noir from Estrelas as one of Brazil’s best sparkling wines. But Cardozo’s work doesn’t end there. In 2016 he founded the Compañía Bra- silera de Vinificaciones (Brazilian Vinification Company), where he lends enological services to a group of projects such as Audace Wines, Red Wines, Cave di Poso, and Guahyba, which was chosen as the Descorchados Winery Revelation for Brazil this year. His work is serious, energetic, and creative, and for us, that makes him the Winemaker of the Year in Brazil. n Mario Geisse

WINERY OF THE YEAR.

FAMILIA GEISSE

ario Geisse is one of the key winemakers in the modern history of MChilean wine, and he has played a similar role in Brazil, where he arrived in 1976 to take charge of the Moët & Chandon subsidiary there. Three years later, he and his children founded Familia Geisse, the winery that has been a fundamental element in the renovation of the Brazilian sparkling wine scene, especially when it comes to the traditional method with the second fermentation in the bottle, a system that Geisse has taken to unusual heights in South America. With vineyards in Pinto Bandeira, the highest zones in southern Brazil, his cuvées now show consistency, quality, and character. His wines are classic in style, concentrated in flavors and textures that come from aging on their lees. However, there’s also room to experiment, such as with his new Cave Geisse Levaduras Autóctones Nature, a delicious, intense, and profound white made with the least amount of intervention possible. If you want to know about the modern development of sparkling wines in Brazil, the best advice is to begin with wines from Geisse. n Luis Wullf, owner of Bodega Guahyba, near Porto Alegre.

WINERY REVELATION OF THE YEAR.

GUAHYBA

e at Descorchados are interested in new voices—and even more if those Wvoices speak of places we don’t know or that have recently begun to appear on the map of South American wine. This is the case of Luis Wulff and his project west of Porto Alegre, beside the Guaíba River. Luis doesn’t have ancestors dedicated to wine. He’s just an amateur who, in 2015, wanted to take his passion to the next step by planting a couple of hectares of vineyards on calcareous-clay soils in that zone, where they are pioneers. Working with winemaker Alejandro Cardozo as a consultant, this year his 2020 Revolução White has particularly caught our attention. It’s 100% albariño with a ripe and enveloping character, but it also has firm acidity that offers a balance that is not common in Brazil’s white wines. Keep an eye on this winery—and on the banks of the Guaíba River-Lake. n [ TIED ] 93 BEST BRUT. CASA VALDUGA 130 Blanc de Blanc Chardonnay N/V VALE DOS VINHEDOS

he foam is like silk, like cream in this sparkling Twine aged for 36 months on its lees in the bottle. It’s 100% chardonnay with a very pronounced fruity side, but it also has light hints of oxidation as well as spices and nuts. The body, no matter how smooth, is succulent and enveloping with firm acidity. This is the kind of wine that’s worth waiting for. Give it at least two or three years. It will only gain in complexity. n

Best bruts of the year

92 | CASA VALDUGA 130 Brut Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 92 | CASA VALDUGA Arte Tradicional Brut Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 Vale dos Vinhedos 92 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Blanc de Noir Brut P. Noir 2018 | Pinto Bandeira 92 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 92 | LUIZ ARGENTA Cave 48 Meses Brut Chardonnay 2015 | Flores da Cunha 92 | MIOLO WINE GROUP Miolo Millésime Brut P. Noir, Chardonnay 2017 Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | ADOLFO LONA Brut Método Tradicional Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Garibaldi 91 | CASA VALDUGA 130 Blanc de Noir P. Noir N/V | Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | CASA VALDUGA Arte Tradicional Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | CASA VALDUGA Premium Brut Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | CHANDON Brasil Chandon Excellence Magnum - Safra 2009 - Lote 2 2009 | Serra Gaúcha 91 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Brut Método Tradicional N/V | Nova Prata 91 | GARBO ENOLOGÍA CRIATIVA Evoluto Brut Sur Lie Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V | Serra Gaúcha 91 | GEISSE Cave Amadeu Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2020 | Pinto Bandeira 91 | GEISSE Cave Amadeu Brut Rosé P. Noir 2020 | Pinto Bandeira 91 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Brut Rosé P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 91 | PENZO Penzo Farfalla Lorena 2020 | Serra Gaúcha 91 | PIZZATO Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2018 | Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | PONTO NERO Icon Brut Chardonnay N/V | Serra Gaúcha [ TIED ] 93 BEST BRUT. GEISSE Cave Geisse Blanc de Blanc Brut Chardonnay 2018 PINTO BANDEIRA

eisse’s vision of the blanc de blanc style is light Gand subtle. Here there are vineyards some 25 years old that the Geisse family owns in the heights of Pinto Bandeira, in the Serra Gaúcha, a terroir that produces delicate wines with tremendous acidity. There are plenty of white fruit and floral flavors here, illuminated by that bright, crisp acidity. The body is delicate and spreads across a layer of abundant, sharp bubbles. This is the kind of wine you need to bring to the table to serve with raw shellfish. A little delight of harmony and subtlety. n

Best bruts of the year

92 | CASA VALDUGA 130 Brut Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 92 | CASA VALDUGA Arte Tradicional Brut Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 Vale dos Vinhedos 92 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Blanc de Noir Brut P. Noir 2018 | Pinto Bandeira 92 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 92 | LUIZ ARGENTA Cave 48 Meses Brut Chardonnay 2015 | Flores da Cunha 92 | MIOLO WINE GROUP Miolo Millésime Brut P. Noir, Chardonnay 2017 Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | ADOLFO LONA Brut Método Tradicional Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Garibaldi 91 | CASA VALDUGA 130 Blanc de Noir P. Noir N/V | Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | CASA VALDUGA Arte Tradicional Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | CASA VALDUGA Premium Brut Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | CHANDON Brasil Chandon Excellence Magnum - Safra 2009 - Lote 2 2009 | Serra Gaúcha 91 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Brut Método Tradicional N/V | Nova Prata 91 | GARBO ENOLOGÍA CRIATIVA Evoluto Brut Sur Lie Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V | Serra Gaúcha 91 | GEISSE Cave Amadeu Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2020 | Pinto Bandeira 91 | GEISSE Cave Amadeu Brut Rosé P. Noir 2020 | Pinto Bandeira 91 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Brut Rosé P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 91 | PENZO Penzo Farfalla Lorena 2020 | Serra Gaúcha 91 | PIZZATO Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2018 | Vale dos Vinhedos 91 | PONTO NERO Icon Brut Chardonnay N/V | Serra Gaúcha [ TIED ] 93 BEST EXTRA BRUT. GEISSE Cave Geisse Rosé Extra Brut Pinot Noir 2017 PINTO BANDEIRA

his Geisse extra brut has a base wine that was Tfermented and then kept in barrels for six months. After that, and following the traditional method of the second fermentation in the bottle, it remained in contact with its lees for three years and then rested in the bottle until now. The wine shows tremendously powerful fruit accompanied by creamy bubbles that fill the mouth causing a pleasant sensation of succulence. A wine to eat with—perhaps with grilled salmon or light deli meats. n

Best extra bruts of the year

92 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Extra Brut Rosé Método Tradicional P. Noir N/V Nova Prata 92 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Reserva Extra Brut Vintage Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 91 | AURORA Aurora Pinto Bandeira Método Tradicional Extra Brut N/V Serra Gaúcha 91 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Extra Brut Vintage Chardonnay, P. Noir 2020 Pinto Bandeira 91 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Extra Brut Rosé Vintage P. Noir 2020 Pinto Bandeira 91 | MAXIMO BOSCHI Biografia Extra Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2014 Vale dos Vinhedos 90 | CASA VALDUGA Premium Extra Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 90 | LUIZ PORTO Luiz Porto Extra Brut P. Noir, Chardonnay N/V Minas Gerais [ TIED ] 93 BEST EXTRA BRUT. GEISSE Victoria Geisse Gran Reserva Extra Brut Vintage Chardonnay, Pinot Noir 2018 PINTO BANDEIRA

his blend, the most ambitious in the Victoria TGeisse line, is 75% chardonnay and the rest is pinot noir, both from 12-year-old vineyards in the Pinto Bandeira zone. It has the longest lies contact in the entire line—three years before disgorgement. And the result is a wine with rich complexity, flavors of nuts and spices, and floral touches. The bubbles are soft and abundant, the acidity is pronounced, and the sweetness is very much in the background, allowing freshness to predominate. n

Best extra bruts of the year

92 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Extra Brut Rosé Método Tradicional P. Noir N/V Nova Prata 92 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Reserva Extra Brut Vintage Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 91 | AURORA Aurora Pinto Bandeira Método Tradicional Extra Brut N/V Serra Gaúcha 91 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Extra Brut Vintage Chardonnay, P. Noir 2020 Pinto Bandeira 91 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Extra Brut Rosé Vintage P. Noir 2020 Pinto Bandeira 91 | MAXIMO BOSCHI Biografia Extra Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir 2014 Vale dos Vinhedos 90 | CASA VALDUGA Premium Extra Brut Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 90 | LUIZ PORTO Luiz Porto Extra Brut P. Noir, Chardonnay N/V Minas Gerais [ TIED ] 94 BEST NATURE. ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Nature Rosé Método Tradicional Pinot Noir N/V FARIA LEMOS

Best natures of the year

93 | ADEGA REFINARIA Otto Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay 2016 | Serra Gaúcha 93 | ADOLFO LONA Orus Pas Dosé Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir, Merlot 2014 | Garibaldi 93 | ADOLFO LONA Nature Pas Dosé Método Tradicional Chardonnay, P. Noir, Merlot N/V | Garibaldi 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Nature Método Tradicional N/V | Serra Gaúcha 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 93 | PIZZATO Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2017 | Vale dos Vinhedos 92 | ADOLFO LONA Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V | Garibaldi 92 | AURORA Gioia Nature Sur Lie Chardonnay, P. Noir, Riesling Itálico N/V Serra Gaúcha 92 | BELLA QUINTA Livre Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay N/V | Serra Gaúcha 92 | CASA PERINI Nature Método Tradicional Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Serra Gaúcha 92 | GEISSE Cave Amadeu Rústico Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2018 Pinto Bandeira 92 | HERMANN Lírica Crua Chardonnay, P. Noir, Gouveio N/V Pinheiro Machado 92 | LUIZ ARGENTA Cave Blanc de Noir 36 Meses Nature P. Noir 2016 Altos Montes 92 | PIZZATO Vertigo Nature Chardonnay,P. Noir 2018 | Vale dos Vinhedos 92 | RED WINES LUXURY Nature Rosé Método Tradicional 2018 Caxias do Sul [ TIED ] 94 BEST NATURE. GEISSE Cave Geisse Leveduras Autóctones Nature 2014 PINTO BANDEIRA

nce again, this new wine from Geisse doesn’t have Omuch to say, at least when it comes to the wine itself. In contact with its lees for no less than 72 months, it was fermented with native yeasts and without the addition of sulfur dioxide. They have avoided intervening in the process to make a wine in the most natural way possible, although it did undergo its second fermentation in the bottle (the “traditional” method). The result is a vinous style marked by the aromas of oxidation and nuts mixed with ripe fruits and spicy notes in a wine that’s deep and full bodied, but that’s tremendously soft and subtle at the same time. One of the best we have tried from Geisse. n

Best natures of the year

93 | ADEGA REFINARIA Otto Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay 2016 | Serra Gaúcha 93 | ADOLFO LONA Orus Pas Dosé Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir, Merlot 2014 | Garibaldi 93 | ADOLFO LONA Nature Pas Dosé Método Tradicional Chardonnay, P. Noir, Merlot N/V | Garibaldi 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Rosé Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Nature Método Tradicional N/V | Serra Gaúcha 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2019 | Pinto Bandeira 93 | PIZZATO Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2017 | Vale dos Vinhedos 92 | ADOLFO LONA Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V | Garibaldi 92 | AURORA Gioia Nature Sur Lie Chardonnay, P. Noir, Riesling Itálico N/V Serra Gaúcha 92 | BELLA QUINTA Livre Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay N/V | Serra Gaúcha 92 | CASA PERINI Nature Método Tradicional Chardonnay, P. Noir N/V Serra Gaúcha 92 | GEISSE Cave Amadeu Rústico Nature Chardonnay, P. Noir 2018 Pinto Bandeira 92 | HERMANN Lírica Crua Chardonnay, P. Noir, Gouveio N/V Pinheiro Machado 92 | LUIZ ARGENTA Cave Blanc de Noir 36 Meses Nature P. Noir 2016 Altos Montes 92 | PIZZATO Vertigo Nature Chardonnay,P. Noir 2018 | Vale dos Vinhedos 92 | RED WINES LUXURY Nature Rosé Método Tradicional 2018 Caxias do Sul [ TIED ] BEST CHARMAT 91 METHOD. CHANDON BRASIL Chandon Excellence Magnum Lote 2 2009 SERRA GAÚCHA

his is Chandon’s new top wine, a sparkling Twine made with the charmat method (second fermentation in stainless tanks) and which, in this case, has spent no less than a decade in the bottle. Obviously, the flavors are complex and go beyond the fruit and have nutty tones, sweet spices, and a bit of oxidation. The wine hasn’t lost its acidity, and the bubbles are smooth and friendly. One for smoked fish. n

Best charmat methods of the year

90 | PONTO NERO Cult Brut Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling N/V Serra Gaúcha 90 | VISTAMONTES Brut Rosé Malbec N/V | Serra Gaúcha 89 | AURORA Procedências Blanc de Blanc Brut Chardonnay N/V Serra Gaúcha 89 | MIOLO WINE GROUP Miolo Cuvée Brut Rosé Pinot Noir, Chardonnay 2019 | Vale dos Vinhedos 89 | PONTO NERO Enjoy Brut Sauvignon Blanc N/V | Serra Gaúcha [ TIED ] BEST CHARMAT 91 METHOD. PONTO NERO Icon Brut Chardonnay N/V SERRA GAÚCHA

onto Nero’s most ambitious wine was aged for P40 months on its lees, made by the charmat method with the second fermentation (making the foam) in stainless steel tanks. The result is a sparkling wine that’s dry, with a very low level of sweetness and with the predominance of acidity, offering lots of freshness and juiciness. It’s tense, with very sharp bubbles and a pleasing layer of fruity flavors. One for an aperitif or ceviche. n

Best charmat methods of the year

90 | PONTO NERO Cult Brut Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling N/V Serra Gaúcha 90 | VISTAMONTES Brut Rosé Malbec N/V | Serra Gaúcha 89 | AURORA Procedências Blanc de Blanc Brut Chardonnay N/V Serra Gaúcha 89 | MIOLO WINE GROUP Miolo Cuvée Brut Rosé Pinot Noir, Chardonnay 2019 | Vale dos Vinhedos 89 | PONTO NERO Enjoy Brut Sauvignon Blanc N/V | Serra Gaúcha [ TIED ] BEST TRADITIONAL 94 METHOD. ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Nature Rosé Método Tradicional Pinot Noir N/V FARIA LEMOS

Best traditional methods of the year

93 | ADEGA REFINARIA Otto Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay 2016 | Serra Gaúcha 93 | ADOLFO LONA Orus Pas Dosé Nature Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot 2014 | Garibaldi 93 | ADOLFO LONA Nature Pas Dosé Método Tradicional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot N/V | Garibaldi 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Rosé Chardonnay, Pinot Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA 130 Blanc de Blanc Chardonnay N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay, Pinot Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Nature Método Tradicional N/V | Serra Gaúcha 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Blanc de Blanc Brut Chardonnay 2018 Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Rosé Extra Brut Pinot Noir 2017 | Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Gran Reserva Extra Brut Vintage 2018 Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Nature Chardonnay, Pinot Noir 2019 Pinto Bandeira 93 | PIZZATO Nature Chardonnay, Pinot Noir 2017 | Vale dos Vinhedos [ TIED ] BEST TRADITIONAL 94 METHOD. GEISSE Cave Geisse Leveduras Autóctones Nature Chardonnay, Pinot Noir 2014 PINTO BANDEIRA

Best traditional methods of the year

93 | ADEGA REFINARIA Otto Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay 2016 | Serra Gaúcha 93 | ADOLFO LONA Orus Pas Dosé Nature Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot 2014 | Garibaldi 93 | ADOLFO LONA Nature Pas Dosé Método Tradicional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot N/V | Garibaldi 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Rosé Chardonnay, Pinot Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA 130 Blanc de Blanc Chardonnay N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | CASA VALDUGA Sur Lie Nature Chardonnay, Pinot Noir N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 93 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Nature Método Tradicional N/V | Serra Gaúcha 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Blanc de Blanc Brut Chardonnay 2018 Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Rosé Extra Brut Pinot Noir 2017 | Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Victoria Geisse Gran Reserva Extra Brut Vintage 2018 Pinto Bandeira 93 | GEISSE Cave Geisse Nature Chardonnay, Pinot Noir 2019 Pinto Bandeira 93 | PIZZATO Nature Chardonnay, Pinot Noir 2017 | Vale dos Vinhedos [ TIED ] 91 BEST MOSCATO. CASA PEDRUCCI Pedrucci Moscatel Espumante Moscato, Malvasía 2020 GARIBALDI

n excellent sample of style, this moscatel has Aeverything you need—the variety’s exuberant aromas, its notes of flowers and spices, white fruits, and sweetness, which is very much present here, although it’s also—and very importantly—moderated by acidity whose job it is to refresh everything in its path (despite the more than 60 grams of sugar in this wine). All this, along with very low alcohol (just over 7º), makes this wine the closest thing to a juice. A textbook Brazilian moscatel. n

Best moscatos of the year

90 | BELLA QUINTA Gávia Moscatel Blanco N/V | Serra Gaúcha 90 | BELLA QUINTA Gávia Moscatel Espumante Moscatel Blanco N/V Serra Gaúcha 90 | CASA PERINI Moscatel Espumante Moscato N/V | Vale Trentino 90 | CASA VALDUGA Naturelle Moscatel Espumante Moscato N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 90 | CASA VALDUGA Naturelle Moscatel Rosé Espumante Moscato, Malvasía 2020 | Vale dos Vinhedos 90 | PONTO NERO Live Celebration Moscatel Rosé Espumante N/V Serra Gaúcha 90 | VALLONTANO Vallontano Moscatel Espumante Moscato N/V Vale dos Vinhedos 89 | ESTRELAS DO BRASIL Moscatel Espumante Moscato Branco 2020 Nova Prata 88 | CASA PERINI Casa Perini Aquarela Moscatel Espumante N/V Vale Trentino 88 | PONTO NERO Live Celebration Moscatel Espumante Moscato N/V Serra Gaúcha 88 | SALTON Salton Moscatel Moscato N/V | Serra Gaúcha 88 | YOO Moscatel Espumante Moscato Branco 2020 | Nova Prata [ TIED ] 91 BEST MOSCATO. CASA VALDUGA Premium Moscatel Espumante Moscato Giallo N/V VALE DOS VINHEDOS

delight of a moscatel, here you have the sweet A sensation of the more than 60 grams of residual sugar that determine the style in Brazil, but it also has juicy, penetrating acidity and a soft body generous in creamy bubbles. Think of this wine when you’re having a dessert like lemon pie or a fruit platter. Or just drink it chilled by the pool or on the beach on vacation. n

Best moscatos of the year