Interview: Carlos Eduardo Corrêa Nogueira arlos Eduardo Corrêa Nogueira is the Director for International Affairs of the Brazilian winery Miolo, one of largest in Cthe country. In this interview to Flavors from Bra- zil, Nogueira comments on the quality of Brazil- ian wine and tells us a little about the successful history of grape cultivation and the production of fine wines in Brazil. According to the agro- nomic engineer, Brazil’s winery tradition is little known abroad. There is still some resistance in some markets, despite its high quality standards. Nogueira describes some initiatives that are be- ing undertaken to break the stereotypes that are, in many cases, imposed on Brazilian wine in or- der for it to enjoy the same international success that Brazilian cachaça and caipirinha do. Flavors from Brazil 159 Barrels. Source: Vinícola Miolo Ltda 160 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 FB: What are the origins of Brazilian wine production? As an effective CECN: The first register of winegrowing commercial activity, in Brazil dates back to 1538 with Brás Cubas, on the coast of São Paulo, who began to study the winegrowing started development of this culture. Afterwards, some in 1875 with Italian seedlings were taken to others parts of the coun- try by the Jesuits. The culture established itself in immigration to Brazil. the region of Sete Povos das Missões and on the islands of the estuary of the Guaíba River in Rio tity for the representation of national wine cul- Grande do Sul, south of Brazil. However, as an tivation for export. It is an integrated sectorial effective commercial activity, winegrowing start- program, supported by APEX (Brazilian Trade ed in 1875 with Italian immigration to Brazil. and Investment Promotion Agency), in partner- ship with other entities, such as Sebrae (Brazil- FB: In Brazil, winemaking tradition, ian Micro and Small Enterprises Bureau). The however long in existence, is still goal of Wines from Brazil is to promote Brazilian relatively unknown. What have wine abroad. Today, if I am not mistaken, there the institutions related to wine are 17 wineries associated. These wineries get to- been doing to improve the image of gether to promote Brazilian wine internationally, Brazilian wines? by participating in fairs, doing technical visits to CECN: The institutions, nowadays, have markets, promoting special events – such as din- been working intensively on their marketing. ners coordinated with wines –, tasting events at The main idea is dissemination. Uvibra (Brazil- hotels, restaurants, and even at our own embas- ian Vitiviniculture Union), specifically, has been sies (the diplomatic staff have been very helpful). working at a national level for 40 years. It is the At the international level, these are the main ac- main forum for the protection of Brazilian wine- tivities. growing and for government relations. Their main task, which we would like to develop even FB: Which markets are more receptive further, is to promote Brazilian wine through ad- and which are more indifferent to vertising campaigns, the promotion of wine con- Brazilian wine? sumption and of its health benefits. This is the CECN: The most receptive markets are main goal of the organizations besides protect- the ones that are traditional consumers of wine, ing the industry and working with government namely, Europe and the United States. These al- to elaborate sectorial policies. ready mature markets recognize good quality. There is no use in trying to sell a good quality FB: Is there a marketing plan by product to someone who does not recognize it. Uvibra or wine producers? How is it The more mature markets are the ones that ac- carried out, particularly abroad? cept our product, essentially because Brazilian CECN: Dissemination abroad is done wine today presents an excellent cost/benefit ra- through Wines from Brazil, which is our big en- tio, mainly in the premium and higher catego- Flavors from Brazil 161 This is the main situation with Brazilian wines. This large diversity, So, more mature markets that recognize quality, not only of climate but that can open two bottles of wine and say: “well, this one is worth more than the other”, these are also of soil, and even the most receptive markets. cultural, enables us The less-receptive markets are the less-ma- ture markets that still don’t know wines and buy to have a very large them according to reputation. Since Brazil does diversity in production, not have a strong winery tradition and is not yet an internationally acclaimed large producer of thus offering products wine, it frequently suffers from prejudice and is that other countries, not able to penetrate emerging markets, such as China and Latin America, which do not yet have traditional producers, the culture and the habit of consuming wine. cannot. Our main markets are: the United States, Swit- zerland, France, Germany and England. All tra- ditional producers of wine, except England. ries. Brazil is not currently positioning itself to compete price-wise with Argentina and Chile, FB: Besides the fact that Brazilian mainly because of a production volume issue. wine is still relatively unknown, what Brazil produces around 40 million liters of fine other challenges does the promotion wine, while Argentina produces 1. billion and of Brazilian wine face abroad? Chile 900 million. They are able to produce wine CECN: The first challenge is to transform at lower prices due to the large economy of scale. Brazil into a well-known wine producer. We must Nevertheless, in terms of quality, given its diverse develop in the minds of international consumers climate, Brazil produces wine from the extreme the idea that to talk about wine and Brazil in the South to the Northeast. In Chile and Argentina, same context is not absurd. This still happens for example, all the vineyards are irrigated with today, although it is now changing. The second cold water from the Andes; in Australia, the ma- step is to show that Brazilian wine is a high qual- jority of the vineyards are found in semi-desert ity product and that it presents an above average areas. This large diversity, not only of climate cost/benefit ratio. Nowadays Brazil focuses on but also of soil, and even cultural, enables us to wines with premium quality or higher, with add- have a very large diversity in production, thus ed value. Thus, our second challenge is precisely offering products that other countries, tradi- to enable international consumers to recognize tional producers, cannot. This has been our great the quality that we offer. The third challenge, at a differential for the external market. We are not more advanced phase, is to be able to differenti- presenting ourselves as one more producer who ate the internal regions of Brazil for international has arrived to sell cheap wine; we present differ- consumers. Some years of presentation and com- entiated, sophisticated wines with added value. munication of the Brazilian product abroad will 162 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 Vineyard. Source: Vinícola Miolo Ltda Flavors from Brazil 163 Francisco River Valley, which includes the whole Nowadays Brazil focuses production zone of the Northeast. The idea is to on wines with premium enlarge and create new production zones, mainly with the development of the region. In Santa Ca- quality or higher, with tarina, for example, much has been done so that added value. Thus, soon it may become a production zone and, who knows, acquire some denominations of origin. our second challenge is precisely to enable FB: Many specialists stated that Brazil would not be able to produce international consumers high quality wine due to its tropical to recognize the quality climate. On what are these statements based? that we offer. CECN: The New Zealanders ended this theory that quality wines could only be produced be necessary in order to enable this market to in temperate regions, between the parallels of 40° differentiate the wine produced in different -re and 45° North and South. They produce excellent gions of Brazil, such as the Vinhedos Valley, the quality wine above 45° south latitude. The Cana- Northeast region, in Santa Catarina, and in the dians, with their ice wines, also helped to over- Campanha region in Rio Grande do Sul. We hope throw the theory. I believe that the Northeast is that, in the future, these regional specificities will going to end this idea once and for all. In reality, be recognized, as occurs in the majority of coun- there is universality in grape production. It has tries that have reached this advanced stage. already been perfectly proven that grapes can be produced from Greenland to the Northeast of FB: Are there denominations of Brazil. Countries which were jokes in the wine origin in Brazil? Which ones? producing world, such as England, of which was CECN: Yes. The first denomination of ori- said: “it is as rare as English wine”, today pro- gin that was developed in Brazil, Vinhedos Val- duce excellent wine. This lobby of a preferential ley, dates from 001. It is a geographical indica- region was overturned many years ago. Today tion. Other regions are working in this sense, but Brazil, with its continental dimension, produces currently, with the approval of the INPI (Brazil- wine everywhere except in the Amazon. In other ian National Institute of Intellectual Property) as parts of the country there are very interesting a geographical indication, only Vinhedos Valley production regions, very interesting wines, very for now. There are in Brazil, several production well developed projects that have been advanc- zones, which are mandatory for export, with- ing rapidly. out which the market does not recognize a fine wine. They are: the border production zone, that FB: At which stage is the grape encompasses the south of Rio Grande do Sul; cultivation project of the São the production zone of the mountain area of Rio Francisco River today? Many people Grande do Sul; and the production zone of the São have said that it wouldn’t be possible 164 Texts from Brazil .