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The Description and Use of Women's The Description and Use of Women’s Clothing in Eighteenth-century England: With special reference to the counties of Yorkshire and Nottinghamshire Elizabeth Amy Spencer PhD University of York History December 2017 Abstract Where was women’s clothing described in eighteenth-century England, and by whom? How was it described? And why? These are the questions at the heart of this thesis. Previous studies have already attempted to tackle some of them, focusing largely on the where and why. One of the key arguments which has emerged from this is that women used their clothing to engage in a form of feminine ‘sentimental’ consumption. Scholars argue that women described their clothing to express emotional meaning, which is betrayed in these ‘meticulous’ or ‘careful’ descriptions. I argue that these assumptions are long overdue a revision. The thesis is in two halves, and the first tackles where women’s clothing was described, by whom, and how. In chapters one and two, I identify a shared language of description across three sources – wills, newspaper advertisements, and account books. The description of clothing in these sources has been interpreted as emotional, but I argue that it cannot be read in this way; moreover, I outline a number of methodological issues with this approach. This has important implications for arguments about women and ‘sentimental’ consumption. The second half suggests some more productive approaches to description, as well as the study women and clothing in general. In chapters three and four, I respond to calls in the scholarship to focus on things in use; however, I argue that we also need to explore how and why clothing was being used in different sources. Looking at court records and correspondence, I demonstrate that clothing could be used as a powerful rhetorical tool in different contexts, which speaks to wider understandings of its role. I therefore make an original contribution in this thesis to the scholarship on women and consumption, as well as decisive interventions in the methodologies used for the study of it. 2 Table of Contents Abstract ………………………………………………………………………………….. 2 Table of Contents ……………………………………………………………..……. 3 List of Tables …………………………………………………………………………… 5 List of Figures ……………………………………………………………….………… 6 Acknowledgements ……………………………………………………………….. 7 Declaration …………………………………………………………….………………. 8 Introduction ………………………………………………………….………………… 9 Consumption, Identity, and Emotion in Eighteenth-century England ……………………………………………………………………………………….. 14 Women and their Clothing ……………………………………………………….…. 36 Sources and Methodology ………………………………………………….……….. 42 Chapter Outlines …………………………………………………………………….…… 52 Chapter One: Wills and Newspaper Advertisements …………... 56 Introduction ………………………………………………………………………………… 56 The Wills ………………………………………………………………………………….….. 69 The Daily Advertiser …………………………………………………………………….. 92 A Shared World of Goods? …………………………………………………………... 99 Conclusion ………………………………………………………………………..………… 114 Chapter Two: Accounting for the Wardrobe …………………………. 118 Introduction ………………………………………………………………….………….... 118 3 Accounting for the Household and Family ……………………………….... 130 Accounting and Describing ………………………………………………………… 153 Conclusion …………………………………………………………………………………. 174 Chapter Three: Clothing and Conflict: The Separation of William and Catherine Ettrick ……….……………………………………. 177 Introduction ………………………………………………………………………………. 177 Using Description …………………………………………………………….………… 196 Disorderly Clothing ……………………………………………………………………. 206 Conclusion ……………………………………………………………………….………… 215 Chapter Four: Linen ……………………………………………………………. 221 Introduction …………………………………………………………………..………….. 221 Provision …………………………………………………………….……………………… 238 Poverty ……………………………………………………………….…………………….. 252 Deprivation ……………………………………………………………………………….. 265 Conclusion ………………………………………………………………..……………….. 275 Conclusion ………………………………………………………………………….. 277 Appendix 1: Words used to describe clothing in wills proved by the Dean and Chapter Court of York, 1686-1830 ………..……………. 300 Appendix 2: Words used to describe clothing in lost and stolen adverts placed in the Daily Advertiser, 1731-1796 …………….. 306 Conventions and Abbreviations ……………………………….………… 313 Bibliography ……………………………………………………………………….. 315 4 List of Tables Table 1. Inventoried wealth in the wills, 1699-1803 ………………………………. 78 Table 2. Wealth taken from the declarations attached to the wills, 1781-1821 ………………………………………………………………………………………………. 79 Table 3. Fabrics used to describe clothing in the wills, 1696-1830 …….…. 100 Table 4. Fabrics used to describe clothing in the Daily Advertiser lost and stolen adverts, 1732-1796 …………………………………………….….…….. 102 Table 5. Number of times fabric used to describe clothing in the wills, 1696-1830 ………………………………………………………………………………….... 104 Table 6. Number of times colour used to describe clothing in the wills, 1696-1830 …………………………………………………………………….……….…….. 105 Table 7. List of women’s account books looked at in chapter two ………… 131 Table 8. Sarah Mellish’s yearly expenditure and yearly expenditure on clothing, 1708-1718 ……………………………………………………………………….… 140 5 List of Figures Figure 1. Page from the account book of Mrs Plumbe, 1761, Tong/5a/5. Printed with permission from West Yorkshire Archive Service, Bradford ………… 133 Figure 2. Page from the account book of Dorothy Chambers, 1799, Me A11. Printed with permission from Manuscripts and Special Collections, University of Nottingham ………………………………………………………………………………….…… 134 Figure 3. Page from the account book of Dorothy Chambers, 1799, Me A11. Printed with permission from Manuscripts and Special Collections, University of Nottingham ………………………………………………………………………………………. 134 Figure 4. Family tree showing the children of Joan Mellish, née Prowse ………………………………………………………………………………..………………… 137 Figure 5. Bill issued to Elizabeth Woodhouse, 4 December 1788, MFP/1/18. Printed with permission from Explore York Library & Archives, York ….. 170 Figure 6. Bill issued to Elizabeth Woodhouse, 11 June 1791, MFP/1/22. Printed with permission from Explore York Library & Archives, York ………………. 170 6 Acknowledgements First of all, I want to offer my sincere thanks to the members of my Thesis Advisory Panel, Mark Jenner and Hannah Greig, who always seemed to know what my arguments were long before I really knew myself. They have been unstintingly generous in giving their time, support, and advice, and have both shaped this thesis for the better. I also owe some of my biggest thanks to my supervisor Natasha Glaisyer, who has now coached me through three degrees with a seemingly endless supply of patience, kindness, and good humour. It was Natasha who first encouraged me to apply for a PhD, and I am more grateful than I can ever say for her continued support. This research was supported by the Arts & Humanities Research Council (grant number AH/L503848/1) through the White Rose College of the Arts & Humanities, and I want to thank Caryn and Clare in the WRoCAH Office for their support throughout my PhD. I also express my gratitude to friends both old and new, and in particular to my fellow PhDs Elizabeth Bobbitt and Anna Mercer, who have provided a vital informal support group through dog walks, coffee breaks, dinner dates, and the occasional (!) glass of wine. I would be remiss if I didn’t also mention here Fin the dog, whose smiling face has never failed to cheer me up. My thanks must also go to Michael Walkden, both for providing a willing sounding board for half-formed ideas, as well as for his friendship. And finally, to Gina Uttley – partly for giving me access to much-needed journal articles, but mainly just for being my best friend. Now for three of my biggest debts; first, to Jonjo, who has had to live with me throughout this process. He deserves a medal for this, but my love and gratitude will have to do instead. And finally, to my parents, whose love of the past has always inspired me – who would have guessed that the nine-year-old charging around a field in Georgian clothing would one day end up writing a thesis about it? They have supported me in every way possible, and I can’t thank them enough. 7 Declaration I declare that this thesis is a presentation of original work, and that I am the sole author. This work has not previously been presented for an award at this, or any other, University. All sources have been acknowledged as References. 8 Introduction In January 1764, Ruth Tennyson – a single woman living in Clifton near York – died, leaving behind a last will and testament in which she described many of her possessions. Amongst these things were a number of items of clothing, which were bequeathed to female family members, friends, and acquaintances. This list is far too lengthy to reproduce in full, but a few examples will suffice: I give and bequeath unto my Aunt Tennyson a brown figured Night Gown of Silk, a Green coloured Sattan Petticoat, a white Dimmity petticoat, a plain Muslin Apron and a Cambrick Apron Also I give and bequeath to my Cousin Martha Mason a red Damask Night Gown with all the breadths belonging it Also I give and bequeath to my Cousin Ann Mason a black silk Gown and Petticoat… Also I give and bequeath unto Mrs. Dickinson my present Landlady a purple and white flowered Gown.1 Nearer to the centre of the city, Dorothy Fallowfield of the parish of St. Mary Bishophill the Elder found herself in desperate need of assistance. She had been receiving financial and material relief from her parish on and off since 1759, but an illness which she developed in 1764 meant that she spent the entirety
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