Fashionable Encounters. Perspectives and Trends in Textiles and Dress in the Early Modern Nordic World Nosch, Marie Louise Bech; Ringgaard, Maj ; Venborg Pedersen, Mikkel; Toftegaard, Kirsten; Engelhardt Mathiasen, Tove Publication date: 2014 Document version Publisher's PDF, also known as Version of record Citation for published version (APA): Nosch, M. L. B., Ringgaard, M., Venborg Pedersen, M., Toftegaard, K., & Engelhardt Mathiasen, T. (Eds.) (2014). Fashionable Encounters. Perspectives and Trends in Textiles and Dress in the Early Modern Nordic World. Oxbow Books. ANCIENT TEXTILE SERIES Vol. 14 Download date: 26. sep.. 2021 FASHIONABLE ENCOUNTERS Perspectives and Trends in Textile and Dress in the Early Modern Nordic World Edited by Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen, Marie-Louise Nosch, Maj Ringgaard, Kirsten Toftegaard and Mikkel Venborg Pedersen ANCIENT TEXTILES SERIES VOL. 14 Oxbow Books Oxford & Philadelphia Published in the United Kingdom in 2014 by OXBOW BOOKS 10 Hythe Bridge Street, Oxford OX1 2EW and in the United States by OXBOW BOOKS 908 Darby Road, Havertown, PA 19083 © Oxbow Books and the individual authors 2014 Hardcover Edition: ISBN 978-1-78297-382-9 Digital Edition: ISBN 978-1-78297-383-6 A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission from the publisher in writing. Printed in the United Kingdom by Berforts Information Press Ltd, Eynsham, Oxfordshire For a complete list of Oxbow titles, please contact: UNITED KINGDOM Oxbow Books Telephone (01865) 241249, Fax (01865) 794449 Email: [email protected] www.oxbowbooks.com UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Oxbow Books Telephone (800) 791-9354, Fax (610) 853-9146 Email: [email protected] www.casemateacademic.com/oxbow Oxbow Books is part of the Casemate Group Front cover: Johan Heinrich Tischbein, Den Plönske hertugfamilie/The Duke of Plön and his family, 1759. Oil on canvas, 192 × 300 cm. © The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, Denmark. Photo: Ole Haupt. Contents Acknowledgements ....................................................................................................................................................................................................v List of Illustrations .................................................................................................................................................................................................vi List of Contributors .................................................................................................................................................................................................x Prologue – Mikkel Venborg Pedersen...............................................................................................................................................................xiii 1 The World of Foreign Goods and Imported Luxuries: Merchant and shop inventories in late 17th-century Denmark–Norway .......................................................................................................................................................................................1 Camilla Luise Dahl & Piia Lempiäinen 2 Foreign Seductions: Sumptuary laws, consumption and national identity in early modern Sweden ............................................15 Eva I. Andersson 3 Fashion from the Ship: Life, fashion and fashion dissemination in and around Kokkola, Finland in the 18th century .....................................................................................................................................................................................31 Seija Johnson 4 Creating Fashion: Tailors’ and seamstresses’ work with cutting and construction techniques in women’s dress, c. 1750–1830 ...............................................................................................................................................................................................49 Pernilla Rasmussen 5 Silk Knitted Waistcoats: A 17th-century fashion item .........................................................................................................................73 Maj Ringgaard 6 Fashioning the Early Modern Swedish Nobility – mirrored in preserved 17th-century liturgical textiles ............................... 105 Lena Dahrén 7 Reflections on Dress Practices and How to get to know the Past .................................................................................................. 119 Bjørn Sverre Hol Haugen 8 The Queen of Denmark: An English fashion doll and its connections to the Nordic countries ............................................. 133 Cecilie Stöger Nachman 9 At the Nordic Fringe of Global Consumption: A Copenhagen bourgeois’ home and the use of new goods in the mid-18th century ......................................................................................................................................................................... 141 Mikkel Venborg Pedersen 10 The Theft of Fashion: Circulation of fashionable textiles and garments in 18th-century Copenhagen ................................. 157 Vibe Maria Martens iv Contents 11 Bolette-Marie Harboe’s Bridal Dress: Fashionable encounters told in an 18th-century dress ................................................... 173 Kirsten Toftegaard 12 Luxurious Textiles in Danish Christening Garments: Fashionable encounters across social and geographical borders ....................................................................................................................................................................... 183 Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen 13 Fish-bones and Fashion: The influence of whaling on women’s clothes in early modern Europe ........................................... 201 Christina Folke Ax 14 From Doll Cups to Woollen Sweaters: Trends, consumption and influentials in early 19th-century southern Disko Bay, Greenland ............................................................................................................................................................ 211 Peter Andreas Toft & Maria Mackinney-Valentin 15 From Abundance to Asceticism: Religious influences on perceptions of luxury in Denmark and Great Britain in the 18th century .................................................................................................................................................................................. 225 Juliane Engelhardt 16 Circulating Images of Unmanliness and Foreignness: Collector Niclas Holterman and European caricatures in Sweden around 1800 .......................................................................................................................................................................... 241 Patrik Steorn Acknowledgements The editorial team warmly thanks Cherine Gerda Henkel Stiftung; and curator Wibeke Munkholt for her help with editing, coordinating Haldrup provided a substantial number of and proofreading. She was assisted by our images from the Modern Collection, National highly qualified CTR student assistants: Sidsel Museum of Denmark. This book is a result Frisch, who contributed with intelligent and of the international research project Fashioning insightful copyediting suggestions, and who the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in took excellent care of images and verified Europe, 1500–1800, funded by Humanities in image qualities and the liaising with the authors the Research Area (HERA), investigating the and institutions concerning all illustrations; creativity and innovation that lay behind the Sandra Schrøder Holm who competently and creation and spread of fashionable goods in indefatigably worked on image acquisition early modern Europe. We extend our warm and copyright; Ulrikka Mokdad whose keen thanks to project leader Prof. Evelyn Welch for perception in image identification was a her trust, ambition and inspiration. great asset, and Niels Møldrup Petersen who This book is funded by the Danish National persevered with difficult picture searching Research Foundation, Fonden af 29 December tasks. Research coordinator Birgit Rønne 1967, the Danish Council for Independent from the National Museum of Denmark Research, the research project Fashioning the arranged for the financial side of copyrights, Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Europe, and CTR’s guest professor Mary Harlow gave 1500–1800, and the Queen Margrethe and us valuable comments on the language, as did Prince Henrik Foundation. We are truly grateful Dr. Joanne Cutler, CTR’s Marie Curie Fellow/ for this support. The editors, Copenhagen, May 2013 List of Illustrations Fig. 0.0 (Inside front cover): Map of Europe or Europe, 1830–1899, T 21: 144-1955 Fig. 0.21: Textile fragment, probably for a (The Royal Library, Copenhagen, Collection (Victoria and Albert Museum, London) shawl, of woven pashmina wool, made of Maps, Prints and Photographs) Fig. 0.10: Sikh Painting; Sikh Sardar, Lahore, in Kashmir, 1800–1850, IS.139-1984 Fig. 0.1: Fragment of a shawl border made c. 1835-c. 1845, IS.13-1957 (Victoria and (Victoria and Albert Museum, London) of pashmina wool, Kashmir, c. 1680, Albert Museum, London) Fig. 0.22: Painting; Watercolour on ivory, IS.70-1954 (Victoria and Albert Museum, Fig. 0.11: Silk shawl, possibly made in lady with a red