©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd western 97-9, 101, 165, prayer flags 224 288 248, 250 protective deities 221, 223 Black-Necked Crane Festival 21, 101 rebirth 217 Black-Necked Crane Information schools 218 Centre 99 teachings 218 black-necked cranes 21, 97-9, 101, Wheel of Life 237-8 113, 143, 248-51 bukhari 254 blue poppy 159, 243 Bumthang Cultural Trek 166-7, 166 blue sheep 32, 155-8, 161, 168, 174-5, 249 Bumthang Dzonkhag 24, 112-26, 24 bodhisattvas 222-3, 222-3 Bumthang microbrewery 119 Bodo groups 204 Bumthang valley 116 Bon 216 Bunakha 102 A Bondey 85 bus travel 270 acclimatisation 277 books 181, 183, 230 bushwalking, see trekking accommodation 254-5, see also birds 250 business hours 256 individual locations 215, 216 activities 19-21, 255-6, see also culture 206 archery, sports C geology 241 calendar, lunar 262 Acute Mountain Sickness 276-7 history 193, 194, 196, 197, 198, camping 155 air travel 200-2, 205 car travel 15, 271 Himalaya scenery 268 painting 226 cash 260 to/from Bhutan 266-8 plants 243, 244 cell phones 15, 263 within Bhutan 270 Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary 143, central Bhutan 41, 106-27, 107 altitude illnesses 16, 276-7 249 accommodation 106 animals 246-51, see also individual border crossings 145-6, climate 14, 106 animals 268-70 highlights 106-7 archery 5, 53, 213, 5 British in Bhutan 194-8 itineraries 24, architecture 233-40, 187, see also Bogle, George 195 24 C hakhar Lhakhang 121 chortens, dzongs, goembas, East India Company 194-5 lhakhangs, traditional houses Eden, Ashley 196-7 Chakkar 114-19, 115 Aris, Michael 183, 194, 196, 200, 201 Hamilton, Alexander 196 cham 231-2 art galleries, see museums Ronaldshay, Earl of 72, 194, 196, Chamgang 152 arts 18, 226-32 see also architecture, 198 Chana Dorje 222 handicrafts, music, painting Treaty of 201 Changangkha Lhakhang 53 Assam Duars 198-9, 242 Turner, Samuel 196 Changlimithang Stadium & ATMs 260 White, John Claude 197-8 Archery Ground 53 Autsho 134 Brokpa 178 Chapcha 101 Buddha, the 221-2 Chazam 137 B Buddha Viewpoint 54 Chebisa 160 bargaining 260 Buddhism 206-7, 215-25, see also Cheli La 85 bars 61, 118, 137, 256 deities, Guardians of the Four Chendebji 109 Barshong 157 Directions, Guru Rinpoche, prayer Chenresig 87, 94, 218, 221-2 wheels bathrooms 263 Cheri Goemba 66-8 Bhutanese 188, 206-7, baths, hot-stone 255 chest infections 274 215-25 bears 168, 248-50 Chhoeten Lhakhang 76 bodhisattvas 222-3, 222-3 beer 259 Chhukha 102 books 215, 216 bharals 32, 155-8, 161, 168, 174-5, Chhukha Dzongkhag 100-5 249 Buddha, the 221-2 Chhundu Lhakhang 89 bicycle travel, see cycling concepts 216-17 Chhuzom 85-6, 101 birds 250-1, see also black-necked courses 99 children, travel with 256-7 cranes domestic rituals 220-1 chillies 180, 207, 258 bird-watching 32, 250-1, 255 Eight Manifestations of Guru 91 Rinpoche 186-8 central Bhutan 113, 249 chir pine 136, 141, 170, 176, 243, eastern Bhutan 128, 131, 136, 143, Eight-Fold Path 217 249 249, 250 Four Noble Truths 216-17 Chokhor valley 119-23, 120 history 188, 215-16 chortens 239-40, 239, see karma 217 also dzongs, goembas, lhakhangs Map Pages p000 monks 209, 218-20, 8, 12 Chendebji 109 Image Pages p000 painting 6, 227, 228-9, 6 Chorten Karpo 165 Index 289 ,

chillies 129 Gross tsechus, festivals, festivals, hholing Drup hey hey 21, 122 hoepa 20 C S see also climate change, C see also driglam rane Festival rane 21, Festival C 25 see also see also omney 126 hala see also R P ora 19, ora 142 19, ath 217 , individual events K P see also ecked ecked ora ora 19 N hholing 112 K C oble Truths 216-17 oble Truths N ational Happiness inpoche 186-8, 232 236, 236, 238 139 101 gang gang Lhakhang omad’s 21 Festival horten angjung Woesel angjung Woesel hingkhar unakha Domchoe 94 19, doma, momos individual festivals N R 250-2, namzha poaching tsechus language 281-2 campfires campfires 38 184, 131, 145, 57, in dzongs 47, Ura Yakchoe 20, 126 20, Yakchoe Ura Tamshing Tamshing S C Gom Jampey Lhakhang Drup 21, 121 19 N N P R accommodation 128 climate 128 14, highlights 128-9 itineraries 25, 1897 47, 73, 93, 110, 125, 161, 110, 93, 200 73, 1897 47, 2009 76 loss of documents 184 Black- F E Four Friends Four 212, 6, 228 Four fishing 255 HeritageFolk Museum 49 258-9, food 207-8, films 181, 213 fires eastern Bhutan 41, 128-46, festivals 19-21, earthquakes economy 181-2, education 208 Eight Manifestations of Guru Eight-Fold electricity 257 email services 259-60 embassies 257-8 emergencies 15, 282 environmental issues 241, 244-5, Eundu events 19-21, exchange rates 15 etiquette 219, 180, 12 , , 5 166

see 189 , , hholing 6 8 C 10 149 235 212 8 hodrang 12, 96, yelsa yelsa 98 P car travel

prings Trek 167-8, 167-8, prings Trek N hhoe 45-8 S agyu 188-90, 219, 45, 75, ings C encho 157 chortens, chortens, see unley 90, 92, 176, 189, Kunley 189, 92, 90, 176, K K

K 255 hoeding 189 76, ath 148-51, 198-9, 242 209, 259 209, P C 208 113 197-201 inpung 8, 73-6, hongar hongar 130-1 imtokha 68 ingye 134-5 unakha 6, 91-3, unakha 91-3, 6, aro 8, 73-6, aro 8, 73-6, 224, 247 224, 232 goembas, goembas, lhakhangs also Drukgyel Drukgyel 84-5, 158153, Gasa 163 114-16 Jili 150 Lhuentse 134-5 Mongar 132-3 P Domkhar Trashi Domkhar Trashi fourth 203-5 second 112, 201-2 48, 202-3 54, 109, third 47, fifth 205 111-2, first 120-1, 116, 93, 76, 53, Tshenkarla 142-6 Tshenkarla Wangchulo 87 Wangdue 161 Yugyel Zuri 76 P R S S S Trashi 142-3 Yangtse Trashi 138 Trashigang 110, 10, Trongsa Druk Drukpa drinks 259 driving, driving licences 271 222-3 Drolma (Tara) Druk Drukgyel Dzong 84-5, 158153, Drukpa 182 Drukpa Dolam doma Domkhar 113 dotsho Dragon Duar Wars Duar 198-200Wars duars Duer Hot Duksum 85, 229 Dumtse Lhakhang 76 Dungdung Dungkhar 135 dzoe language 279-84 130, dzongs 235-6, 73,

tsechus

individual

money arts, horten 48 amgyal C N lub 54-5 environmental C see also see also , , see also see see also cham, safety arpo 121-2, 185-6

257 ora ora 142-6 K K hholing Goemba 126 hodrang 53 see C P 82, 125, 113, 189-90141, 220 ark 55 214 P 93-4 ational Memorial horten Lhakhang 110-11 horten henresig 87, 94, 218, 221-2 henresig 87, hamsum Yuelley hamsum Yuelley helging unakha 94 regions 149 224, 247 224, Buddhism, issues K C N C protective protective 221, 223 S C names & titles 210-11 rural life 207-8 urban life 207 Wheel of Life 237-8 210-11, Bhutan Bicycle P hristianity 216 D climate change 266 colds 274 conservation, cinema 105, 181 climate 257, C Dagana Dagana 151-2, 193 dakinis Dalai Lama 191-2 150, 93, Damji 94, 163 dance 231-2, Dagala Thousand Lakes Trek Dagala 151-2, Thousand Lakes Trek delogs Dechen Dechen Deer deities democracy 205 Deothang Goemba 122 departure taxes 268 diarrhoea 276 disabilities, travellers with 263 Divine Madman 189, 92, 90, 176, Do Zam 122 Dochu La 89-90 Dodina 68, 157 Dankala 126 Darkila 134 daygo currency currency 15 customs regulations 257 cycling 255-6, 270 consulates 257-8 26-7, costs 14-15, courses 260 99, credit cards 260 culture 206-14, dangers, dangers,

5 ational , , N 153 ings, K 153 ark 248 25 P unnery 112 24 22-5 N Dragon Dragon

ational 115 N 234 ingye Wangchuck ingye Wangchuck , , S see also unnery 87 214 62, 135, 212 ark 248 N individual kings P 187 Bumthang 24, eastern Bhutan 25, arts 229 conservation 241 handicrafts 226 health 273 history 184 haine Lhakhang 170 haling 144 harung La 144 homa 135 huruthang 91, 91-5 ila agyupa 188 anglung 144 arma Drubdey ndian nationals 28, 270-1 264, 269, K J I kiras itineraries 22-5, Jakar 114-19, 114-16 Jampa 222 Jampey Lhakhang 119-2083, Jampelyang 222 Japanese B encephalitis 275 Jangchhu Lakha 150 Jangothang 155-6153, 98, 153-7 150, Jhomolhari 38, 85, 87, 153-7, Jhomolhari Trek hot-stone hot-stone baths 255 houses, traditional Bhutanese 233-5, immigration 266 89, immunisations 272-3 I influenza 275 insurance 272 259, internet access 259-65 internet resources Jili Dzong 150 150Jimilang Tsho Jumja 102-3 Juneydrak 88 K K K khuru K K Jigme kayaking 256 K kings, Jigme Dorji K K karma 217 K Jhomolhari Trek 2 157-9, 2 Jhomolhari157-9, Trek wars tsechus weaving, weaving, 4 see also individual see also see also individual unakha 201 P trekking, trekking, walking elri Lhakhang 144-5 est est 4, 82-4, 73, 96 73,

P N see also , ational Happiness 7, ational 181, Happiness 7, , , see inpoche 223, 185-90, 220, ora ora 141 N R K 200-2, 200-2, 205 125, 125, 135, 168 121-3, 134, 187 121-3, 203-4 238 187, mountains 223 see also ghos, kiras, yathras immunisations, illnesses British in Bhutan 194-8 Buddhism 188, 215-16 internet resources 184 of Treaty books 193, 194, 196, 197, 198, books 194, 196, 197, 193, thondrol visit to Bhutan 92, 108, 121-3, 119, birthday 20 burial place 121 Eight Manifestations 186-8, 232 fights with 122 demons 82-5, 87, relics 165, 177 141, 136, 120, 113, rock paintings 66, 122, 145 statues 112, 54, 81, 103, 116, 93, Thowadrak Thowadrak 125 Tiger’s Tingchok 82 89 67, Trashigang 66Wangditse 88 Yangtho 145 Yongla Zangto V V 274 I H Guardians of the DirectionsFour guides, trekking 36 Gur 152 Guru H holidays 262 hot 163-4, 168 springs 94, 127, Himalaya 241-4, Himalaya 241-4, Himalayan black bear 248-50 Hinduism 216 history 183-205, Gyalpo, Thangtong Gyalpo, 86 golf golf 54, 255 Gom government 180-1 Goyul 160 Gross Haa 87-8 Haa Dratshang 88 Haa Dzongkhag 86-9 handicrafts 18, 54, 111, 226, 144, 113, health 272-8, 210-11, hepatitis 274 hiking, nim A 160 hoeden see also hholing 139 4 C , , C 165 8 p000 237 17 12 p000 , , ongtsen 80, 82-3, 119, ongtsen 119, 82-3, 80, 164 museums S 7

yingpo 116 ages ages hholing 126 hodrang 53 uensum 125, 90, 130-1, Kunzang N pring Trek 164, pring Trek P C P P ages ages S ing see archung La 173 P K K tsachhu 62, 212, 140 mage mage amkhe imalung 114 I Map heri 66-8 harbandi 103 huruthang 91 angjung Woesel angjung Woesel hokpey 169 hajoding 67, hajoding 67, rakhar rakhar 113-14 elseling 116 167, 241 167, 170, 184, 230 170, Thangbi 122 Tharpaling 116 113, P P R Taktshang 4, 82-4, Taktshang Deothang 122 Drametse 136-7 Dranjo 82 Drolay 66 Drubthob 93 Gangte 98-9 Haa Dratshang 88 K K Kunzangdrak 124 Lamey 116 Lungchuzekha 66-7 N N P P Dalay Dalay 90-1 Dechen Dechen C Talakha 67, 152 67, Talakha 90 Talo 122-3, Tamshing 66-8 Tango Thadranang 66 Thakcho G Gangte 34, 98 Gangte Goemba 98-9 164-5, Gangte Trek Gangla chortens, dzongs, chortens, lhakhangsdzongs, goembas 237-9, goembas 237-9, gay gay travellers 259 Gedu 102 Gelephu 127 geography 241-3 ghos Gasa Gasa 163 Gasa Hot galleries, galleries, Gangchhenta 157, 161-2 Gangchhenta 157, Gangkhar Gampo, Gampo,

290 Index Index 291 , ,

248-9 18 ational inpoche husum ark N 18 R C 6 P ark 248 8 ark 127, ark 127, P traditional ark 248 P Zhabdrung

18 eserve eserve 248 P R Guru horten 48 see alace 125, hholing Dzong hholing 113 Dzong ational C P C see N see also rigsar alace 125, ational see also P ature ature ational entennial N amgyal N C N N wildlife sanctuaries gawang, gawang, hholing hholing 125, hholing 112 yingpo Goemba 116 elri 76 ssembly building 48, 64 ingye Wangchuck ingye Wangchuck N trict nstitute of Traditional nstitute of Traditional nstitute for Zorig C C C P I I A N S henpo 223 10 hholing S C C ark 248 gawang gawang 259 111, 111, 130-1, 249 130-1, 182, 204, 246, 182, 249 204, 246, P gyen gyen gyen gyen oyal oyal Manas Medicine 49, medicine 48, 142-3, 226 48, 142-3, N see also Wangchuck Wangchuck Textile Museum 49-52Textile Museum 10, of Trongsa Tower Ugyen Ugyen Wangdichholing 116 O Dechenchoeling 65 Trashi Domkhar Eundu O Torsa Torsa Thrumshing La R Jigme Jigme Dorji ational Museum 8, 73-6, ational Library 49 ational Memorial ational epali people 182, 206 gang Lhakhang 122-3 yingmapa 186, 188, 191-2 ational ational amkhe gyen gyen amgyal, amgyal, abji Trek 176-7 abji Trek agpo pagme 221 wl Trek 168 wl Trek alden Lhamo 223 admasambhava, admasambhava, O P N N N N N N newspapers 256 N N N N N P pandas 248-50 painting 6, 226, 227, 228-9, painting 226, 227, 6, O O opening hours 256 O paan P palaces names 210 N national parks & reserves 251, music 207, 230-1, 230-1, music 207, musk deer 156, 168, 249-50 N N health 8 costs, costs, langurs 12 see also , , 10 cycling , , 8 9 reserve reserve 53 goembas see also see

homa 135 P see also K 132 books see abjampa 126113, elri, elri, Thimphu 53-4 elri, Wamrong 145 elri, elri, elri, Taktshang Goemba Taktshang 84elri, 184 R see P P P P ema 124, 175, 177, 189-90, 189-90, ema 177, 175, 124, imochen 125 akten Trek 177-8 akten Trek P R 258 140, 247, 249 247, 140, S walls 240 ational Museum 8, 73-6, aro aro 76 226 exchange exchange rates Zangto Zangto Zangto Tang Tang 84 Ugyen Tshemo Ura 126, Zangto P Thimphu 48, 10, HeritageFolk Museum 49 N central central Bhutan 167 166, eastern Bhutan 170 169, 136, 130, western Bhutan 88, 155, 158, 163 M Lingzhi 156 literature, Lhedi 173 182 Lhuentse 134-5 Lhuentse Dzongkhag 133-5 Lingpa, Longchen Losar Losar 19 Mongar Mongar Dzong 132-3 Mongar Dzongkhag 130-3 monkeys 246-7, monks 218-20, 209, Monpas 177 Motithang 15153, Motithang Takin magazines 256 malaria 275 mani 260 maps 37, markets Masang Gang 90 measures 256 media 182 medical services 274, Membartsho 124 Menji 170 Merak 140 Merak- Metshina 90 migois Milarepa 224 mobile phones 15, 263 momos monasteries, money 15, 260-1, Mongar 132-4, motorcyle travel 271 mountain biking, museums 11

11 160 see also 11

, , 237 eykhang 96-7 ambhava 122, 123 abten 112 hoeding 189 76, N ora ora 141 S R C K gang gang 122-3 epali 279 himi 91 hhundu 89 hhoeten 76 hangangkha 53 hakhar 121 inchen Jugney 125-6 haine 170 hewang 99 adak onchogsum 123 harchop 130 ey ey (Gold) 119 yichu 11, 80-2, 83, ema otala 109 chortens, dzongs, chortens, goembas dzongs, 189, 247 189, Dechenphu 66, 221 Dho Jhaga Lama 93-105 Domchoe 99 Druk Druk Wangyal 89-90 Dumtse 76 Gom Jakar 114 Jampey 119-2083, K K K Kurjey 121-2, 185-6 K C C C C Buli 112-13 C Machig-phu 84 N P P R R S courses courses 260 Dzongkha 279-84 130, Henke 98 N S oina 163 onchogsum 123 ori La 136 yichu Lhakhang 11, 80-2, 83, L laundry services 260 Laya 162 159-63, Laya-Gasa Trek Layap people 162 legal matters 260 lesbian travellers 259 lhakhangs 237-9, Labatamba 152 Lamey Goemba 116 language 246-9, langurs 176, 126, 143, K K K Kuenga Kulha Gangri 241 90, Lama Kunley, Drukpa 92, 90, 176, Kunzangdrak Goemba 124 Kuri Zampa 131, 131-2 121-2, 185-6 Kurtoe 134-5, K , , daygo, 4 46 , traditional 8 45 5 cycling, 172 5 see also 257 see also lhakhangs

65 , , kayaking, trekking, white- 114, 88, 92-3, 90, 75, 48, 73, see , , ig pa 211, imochen Lhakhang 125 R 120, 124, 175, 185, 189-90 175, 124, 120, R ymbols of Longevity 238 S 50-1 medicine khuru water rafting 226-9 143, 122, 140, festivals festivals 55 food 44, 59-61 information 63 internet access 63 basketball basketball 214 football 214 golf 54, 255 entertainment 61-2, accommodation 44, 55-9 attractions 45-55 bars 61-2 climate 44, archery 5, 213, 53, hingkhar 125-6 hodu 157 homuthang 161 iddhartha 215-16 151 Tsho imkotra imtokha Dzong 68 ix 171-5, nowman Trek o-ba wiss Farm wiss 119 Farm T sexually sexually transmitted diseases 275-6 S Tabiting 99 Tabiting 167 Tahung takins 161, 92, 53, 159, 247-8 Goemba Taktshang 4, 82-4, 152 Talakha Goemba Tamshing 122-3, Tang valley 123-5 Tang 134 Tangmachu 222-3 Tara tariff 27-8 26, 228, 220, 136, 235, 260 Tagye Tashi 164-5 97, Tashila taxes 261, 268 taxis 271 telephone services 15, 263 temples, S S S S S S S snow 248-51 leopards 159, 143, S S spa treatments 16 sports 213-4, terma Museum 49-52Textile Thangbi Goemba 122 Thangthangka 154-5 theatre 231-2 Thimphu 12, 44-64, 40,

inpoche -1 189 R , , erbithang 68 erbithang Buddha, the 6 S 8 ark 127, 182, ark 127, 170 P Buddhism, Guru anctuary 140, anctuary 249 140, see see also S ational 191 N see also arpo 121-2, 185-6 K eykhang 96-7 hoekor shedra 82 building 48, 64 N C 207 hristianity, Hinduismhristianity, 150-2, 154, 157-9, 161-2, 164-5, 176 164-5, 161-2, 157-9, 154, 150-2, 204, 246, 249 204, 246, C central central Bhutan 126116, eastern Bhutan 249 144, 136, 130, Thimphu area 67 100, 98, 88-90, Bhutan western inchen Jugney Lhakhang 125-6 inchending 102-3 inpoche, Guru, inpung Dzong 8, 73-6, adak angjung 139 ukubji 108 oyal oyal Manas obluthang 161 odang La 168-9, 140, odang168-71, La Trek odophu 173 Earl onaldshay, of 72, 194, 196, 198 oyal Botanical Garden, Lamperi 90 hakshepasa 161 harna Zampa 154 hek Drak 88 helging akten 140 akten Wildlife akyamuni 221, akyapa 188 amdrup Jongkhar 145-6 amdrup Jongkhar Dzongkhag 143-6 175-6 amtengang Winter Trek anga angye Menlha 222 arpang Dzongkhag 127 engor 131 erbithang 68 unakha Dzongkhag 89-95 Garden, Botanical oyal unakha 91-5, unakha Domchoe 94 19, unakha Dzong 91-3, 6, S R R R SAARC safety 262-3 S S P rigsar R R R R rock climbing 55 R R R R R R S S S S S S S S S S S S S S P P P rabies 275 R radio 256 R rebirth 217 red pandas 248-50 refugees 182, 205 religion 181, 249 246, rhinoceroses 127, 19 rhododendrons 17, R , ,

187 7 , ,

7 99 72 see also , , permits, visas permits, 12 , , 81 12 8 , , 22-5 individual regions

72 p000 11 8 p000 see also , , 257 , , 74 ages ages P ages ages see also P 104 ambhava Lhakhang 122, 123 S 89, 91, 89, 103, mage mage I Map permits rhododendrons blue poppy, blue chir poppy, pine, 269, 269, Bhutan basics 14-15 Bhutan’s regions 40 budgeting 26 14, calendar of events 19-21 internet resources 15 itineraries 22-5, tours tours 26-30 travel seasons 14 trekking 31-9 accommodation 76-9 attractions 73-6 food 79 information 80 internet access 80 travel to/from 80 central central Bhutan 123, 166 116, 113, eastern 170 Bhutan 132, 137, 48, 6853, Thimphu 47, western Bhutan 81, 80, 78, 82-4, hobjikha 101 hobjikha valley 98-101, hokpey 169 hongme 139-40 264, 209, huentsholing 207, 103-5, hajoding Goemba 67, hajoding Goemba 67, angri Zampa 66 anka 152 aro 72-80, aro aro Dzong 8, 73-6, aro aro Dzongkhag 72-86, aro tsechu 73 19, aro valley 80-5, emagatshel 145 ele 108-9 La 97-8, ema P P P P P plants 12, 17, 243-4, 243-4, plants 12, 17, P poaching 246 244, politics 180-1 population 180 postage stamps 80 75, 63, 49, postal services 262 prayer flags 224 prayer wheels 225, 237 planning, P P photography 261-2 P phallus decorations 234, 235, passports 266, passports 266, P P permits 34, 264, 163, 265 P P P P P public holidays 262

292 Index Index 293

12

, , 5 amgyel amgyel , , 70-1 animals, N 96 individual

hesar ingye ingye 203-5 12 S K see also esang 81, 87, 121 esang 81, 87, tudio Thimphu 22-3 , ,

alace 116 , , see also ghos, trekking K S 5

P , , , , 11 56 17 shi internet resources laude 197-8

96 see also , , ature Trail 100 ature Trail A C 7 ature Trail 100 ature Trail rtists N hodrang 95-7, hodrang 95-7, hodrang Dzong 12, 95-7, hodrang Dzong 12, 95-7, hodrang Dzongkhag Dzongkhag hodrang N A see P P 12 P see also , , 5 10 , , ilkhorthang Trail 100 ilkhorthang Trail hopjikha valley 100 hasi La aro aro valley 76 205 197-201 120-1, 116, 109, 202-3 109, 53 99, birds, birds, plants kiras, yathras 9 229-30, 229-30, regions 95-100 Mangdue Foot-Trail 109 Mangdue Foot-Trail P P S Goemba Taktshang 82-4 Thimphu 56, Gangte K Thimphu valley 66-7 126 Ura-Geyzamchu Trail Walking accommodation 69 climate 69 food 69 highlights 70 itineraries 22-3, civil wars 191, 194 -Bhutan conflicts 191-2 Duar 198-200 W Wangchuck, Jigme Wangchuck, 111-2, Ugyen 93, Wangchuck, 76, 53, Wangchulo Dzong 87 Wangdi 95-7, Wangchuck, Jigme Wangchuck, 112, 201-2 48, Jigme54, Wangchuck, Dorji 47, Jigme Wangchuck, volunteering 265 websites, websites, weekend weekend Thimphumarket, 48, 10, Wamrong Wamrong 144-5 Wangchuck, white-water white-water rafting 256 wildlife 246-51, weaving 114, 135, 144, 167, 227, 227, weaving 167, 135, 144, 114, Wheel of Life 237-8 210-11, John White, water water 274 weather 257, weights 256 western Bhutan 41, 69-105, Wangdue Wangdue wars Wangdue Wangdue Wangdichholing Wangdichholing Wangdue Voluntary Voluntary walking, 12

, , 5 , , 72 ssam ssam 204 153 , , A 5 160 170-1 ndian 10 153 I

65 172 10 7 191 , , , , 120 81 72 32-3 110 see also , , hodrang 20, hodrang 20, 72 P akten Trek 177-8 akten Trek S elri Thang 76 unakha valley 93-4 P P abji Trek 176-7 abji Trek wl Trek 168 wl Trek hokhor 119-23, odang La Trek 168-71, odang168-71, La Trek 171-5, nowman Trek amtengang Winter Trek 175-6 amtengang Winter Trek unakha 91-4, rakhar rakhar 21 aro aro 80-5, aro 19, aro 73 19, nationals, passports, permits Tang 123-5 Tang Thimphu valley 64-8, Ura 125-6 Haa 88-9 P P Jhomolhari Trek 153-7, 153-7, Jhomolhari Trek 159-63, Laya-Gasa Trek Merak- N O pack animals 36 planning 31-9 responsible trekking 38-9 R routes 147-78, S S weather 31-4 Bumthang 116 C Gante Goemba 98 Haa 20 Kurjey 122 20, Lhuentse 21 Mongar 21, 132-3 P P Thimphu 48, 5520, 21 Trongsa Wangdue Jhomolhari Trek 2 157-9, 2 Jhomolhari157-9, Trek U V vegetarian vegetarian travellers 258 video systems 261-2 visas 15, 263-5, Trongsa 109-12, 109-12, Trongsa Upper Ura 126, 130-1 Ura valley 125-6 126 20, Yakchoe Ura Ugyen Ugyen United Liberation of Front vacations 262 vaccinations 272-3 valleys Trongsa Dzongkhag 108-12 Trongsa Museum 111, 10, Trongsa tsechus 228-9, 231 193, 189, tuberculosis 276 TV 256 typhoid 276 10, 110, Dzong 110, 10, Trongsa 10 166 166 234 , , 12 160 , , 72 187 see also , , , ,

65 165 see also ghos, 4 149 149 10 , 56 32-3 9 138 ultural Trek 166-7, 166-7, ultural Trek pring Trek 164, pring Trek C prings Trek 167-8, 167-8, prings Trek S S 149 unakha 201 rts 226-8 P ath 148-51, A est est 4, 82-4, hhoe Dzong 45-8 P N C 151-2, 151-2, walking kiras accommodation 36 booking 34 Bumthang Gasa Hot guides 36 health & safety 36-8 high altitude 276-7 16, Druk Duer Hot 164-5, Gangte Trek camping 155 clothing & equipment 34-5, 35 Dagala Thousand Lakes Trek travel travel seasons 44 travel to/from 64 travel within 64 walking tour 56, maps 63 medical services 63-4 shopping 62-3, booking 27 payment 28 special categories 28 tariff 27-8 26, 28-30 tour operators 27, Tikke Zampa 97, 165 Tikke Zampa 97, time 263 tipping 261 toilets 263 tourism 203 tourist information 263 tours Museum 111, 10, of Trongsa Tower Trashi Yangtse 142-3 Yangtse Trashi 137-9, 138 Trashigang Dzongkhag 135-40 Trashigang travel to/from Bhutan 266-70 travel within Bhutan 270-1 travellers cheques 261 of Treaty trekking 5, 147-78, traditional medicine 211 49, Trashi traditional dress 114, traditional houses 233-5, Thirteen Thowadrak Thowadrak Hermitage 125 Thrumshing La 130-1 Thungdari 136 Tibet 191-2 tigers 247-9 143, Tiger’s Thimphu tsechu 48, 5520, Thimphu valley 64-8,

amgyal N gawang gawang N unnery 53 elri Lhakhang, Thimphu N P husum 226-8 C 46, 66-8, 73, 84, 46, 66-8, 162, 92-6, 73, 190-4, 225 53-4 Z Zorig Zorig Zungney 113-14 Zhemgang Dzongkhag 126 Zilukha Zhabdrung Zangto 11 114, 167 114, Y Yadi 136 Yadi yaks 11, 152, Goemba Yangtho 88 yathras 249 yetis 247, 140, La Yongphu 144 La 112Yotong Dzong Yugyel 161 national anctuary S see also reserve reserve 53 anctuary 248 anctuary 249 anctuary 140, anctuary 249 140, P S S S p000 p000 ages ages P ages ages volunteering P see 143, 249 143, mage mage I Map haling Wildlife hibsoo Wildlife akten Wildlife parks parks & reserves K Motithang Takin P S Bomdeling Wildlife wildlife sanctuaries, women in Bhutan 209 women travellers 265, 278 work,

294 Index 295 ma p le g end These symbols will help you find the listings you want: Look out for 1 Sights z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment these icons: 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping Our author’s o recommendation C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport F No payment T Tours 6 Drinking required A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating h s f a strong commitment to Opening Hours Swimming Pool Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram projects. d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Entertainment Routes Boundaries Ù Beach ý Entertainment Tollway International Ú Buddhist Freeway State/Province Shopping V Castle Primary Disputed þ Shopping Ü Christian Secondary Regional/Suburb Þ Hindu Information Tertiary Marine Park ß Islamic ì Bank Lane Cliff à Jewish í Embassy/ Unsealed Road Wall á Monument Consulate Plaza/Mall Hydrography â Museum/Gallery î Hospital/Medical Steps River, Creek ä Ruin ð Internet Tunnel Intermittent River ê Winery/Vineyard ñ Police Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove ë Zoo ò Post Office Overpass Reef æ Other Sight ó Telephone Walking Tour Canal ô Toilet Walking Tour Activities, Courses Water ï Tourist Information Detour & Tours Dry/Salt/ # Other Information Path Ý Diving/Snorkelling Intermittent Lake Û Canoeing/Kayaking Transport Geographic Glacier å Skiing – Airport U Hut/Shelter Areas ç Surfing + Border Crossing õ Lighthouse Beach/Desert ã Swimming/Pool › Bus ö Lookout è Walking ¤ Cable Car/ R Mountain/Volcano Cemetery é Windsurfing Funicular ø Oasis (Christian) # Other Activity/ , Cycling ÷ Park Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Ferry c Pass Park/Forest Sleeping ¡ Metro ù Picnic Area ÿ Sleeping ¢ Monorail Y Waterfall Sportsground S Camping . Parking Population Sight (Building) - Petrol Station Eating _ Capital (National) ˜ Taxi Top Sight ú Eating ^ Capital £ Train/Railway (Building) (State/Province) Drinking ¤ Tram ] City/Large Town û Drinking # Other Transport ] Town/Village ü Cafe ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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