©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd western Bhutan 97-9, 101, 165, prayer flags 224 288 248, 250 protective deities 221, 223 Black-necked crane Festival 21, 101 rebirth 217 Black-necked crane information schools 218 centre 99 teachings 218 black-necked cranes 21, 97-9, 101, Wheel of Life 237-8 113, 143, 248-51 bukhari 254 blue poppy 159, 243 Bumthang cultural Trek 166-7, 166 blue sheep 32, 155-8, 161, 168, 174-5, 249 Bumthang Dzonkhag 24, 112-26, 24 bodhisattvas 222-3, 222-3 Bumthang microbrewery 119 Bodo groups 204 Bumthang valley 116 Bon 216 Bunakha 102 a Bondey 85 bus travel 270 acclimatisation 277 books 181, 183, 230 bushwalking, see trekking accommodation 254-5, see also birds 250 business hours 256 individual locations Buddhism 215, 216 activities 19-21, 255-6, see also culture 206 archery, sports C geology 241 calendar, lunar 262 acute Mountain sickness 276-7 history 193, 194, 196, 197, 198, camping 155 air travel 200-2, 205 car travel 15, 271 Himalaya scenery 268 painting 226 cash 260 to/from Bhutan 266-8 plants 243, 244 cell phones 15, 263 within Bhutan 270 Bomdeling Wildlife sanctuary 143, central Bhutan 41, 106-27, 107 altitude illnesses 16, 276-7 249 accommodation 106 animals 246-51, see also individual border crossings 145-6, climate 14, 106 animals 268-70 highlights 106-7 archery 5, 53, 213, 5 British in Bhutan 194-8 itineraries 24, architecture 233-40, 187, see also Bogle, George 195 24 c hakhar Lhakhang 121 chortens, dzongs, goembas, East india company 194-5 lhakhangs, traditional houses Eden, ashley 196-7 chakkar 114-19, 115 aris, Michael 183, 194, 196, 200, 201 Hamilton, alexander 196 cham 231-2 art galleries, see museums ronaldshay, Earl of 72, 194, 196, chamgang 152 arts 18, 226-32 see also architecture, 198 chana Dorje 222 handicrafts, music, painting Treaty of punakha 201 changangkha Lhakhang 53 assam Duars 198-9, 242 Turner, samuel 196 changlimithang stadium & aTMs 260 White, John claude 197-8 archery Ground 53 autsho 134 Brokpa 178 chapcha 101 Buddha, the 221-2 chazam 137 B Buddha Viewpoint 54 chebisa 160 bargaining 260 Buddhism 206-7, 215-25, see also cheli La 85 bars 61, 118, 137, 256 deities, Guardians of the Four chendebji 109 Barshong 157 Directions, Guru rinpoche, prayer chenresig 87, 94, 218, 221-2 wheels bathrooms 263 cheri Goemba 66-8 Bhutanese 188, 206-7, baths, hot-stone 255 chest infections 274 215-25 bears 168, 248-50 chhoeten Lhakhang 76 bodhisattvas 222-3, 222-3 beer 259 chhukha 102 books 215, 216 bharals 32, 155-8, 161, 168, 174-5, chhukha Dzongkhag 100-5 249 Buddha, the 221-2 chhundu Lhakhang 89 bicycle travel, see cycling concepts 216-17 chhuzom 85-6, 101 birds 250-1, see also black-necked courses 99 children, travel with 256-7 cranes domestic rituals 220-1 chillies 180, 207, 258 bird-watching 32, 250-1, 255 Eight Manifestations of Guru chimi Lhakhang 91 rinpoche 186-8 central Bhutan 113, 249 chir pine 136, 141, 170, 176, 243, eastern Bhutan 128, 131, 136, 143, Eight-Fold path 217 249 249, 250 Four noble Truths 216-17 chokhor valley 119-23, 120 history 188, 215-16 chortens 239-40, 239, see karma 217 also dzongs, goembas, lhakhangs Map pages p000 monks 209, 218-20, 8, 12 chendebji 109 image pages p000 painting 6, 227, 228-9, 6 chorten karpo 165 chorten kora 142-6 Dolam kencho 157 e chorten Lhakhang 110-11 doma 209, 259 earthquakes 289 khamsum Yuelley namgyal Domkhar 113 1897 47, 73, 93, 110, 125, 161, 200 93-4 dotsho 255 2009 76 national Memorial chorten 48 Dragon kings loss of documents 184 christianity 216 fifth 205 eastern Bhutan 41, 128-46, 129 cinema 105, 181 first 53, 76, 93, 111-2, 116, 120-1, accommodation 128 climate 257, 257, see also individual 197-201 climate 14, 128 i regions ndex fourth 203-5 highlights 128-9 climate change 266 second 112, 201-2 itineraries 25, 25 colds 274 third 47, 48, 54, 109, 202-3 economy 181-2, see also Gross conservation, see environmental driglam namzha 212 national Happiness issues drinks 259 education 208 consulates 257-8 driving, see car travel Eight Manifestations of Guru costs 14-15, 26-7, see also money driving licences 271 rinpoche 186-8, 232 courses 99, 260 Drolma (Tara) 222-3 Eight-Fold path 217 credit cards 260 Druk choeding 76, 189 electricity 257 culture 206-14, see also arts, Drukgyel Dzong 84-5, 153, 158 email services 259-60 Buddhism, women in Bhutan Drukpa 182 embassies 257-8 names & titles 210-11 Drukpa kagyu 45, 75, 188-90, 219, emergencies 15, 282 rural life 207-8 232 environmental issues 241, 244-5, urban life 207 Drukpa kunley 90, 92, 176, 189, 250-2, see also climate change, Wheel of Life 210-11, 237-8 224, 247 poaching currency 15 Druk path 148-51, 149 etiquette 180, 219, see also driglam customs regulations 257 Duar Wars 198-200 namzha cycling 255-6, 270 duars 198-9, 242 Eundu chholing 112 Bhutan Bicycle club 54-5 Duer Hot springs Trek 167-8, 166 events 19-21, see also festivals, punakha 94 Duksum 85, 229 tsechus, individual events Dumtse Lhakhang 76 exchange rates 15 d Dungdung nyelsa 98 Dagala Thousand Lakes Trek 151-2, Dungkhar 135 f 149 dzoe 208 festivals 19-21, see also tsechus, Dagana 151-2, 193 Dzongkha language 130, 279-84 individual festivals dakinis 82, 113, 125, 141, 189-90 dzongs 73, 235-6, 235 see Black-necked crane Festival 21, Dalai Lama 93, 150, 191-2 also chortens, 101 Damji 94, 163 goembas, lhakhangs chorten kora 19, 142 dance 231-2, see also cham, tsechus Domkhar Trashi chholing Gom kora 19 113 dangers, see safety Jampey Lhakhang Drup 21, 121 Drukgyel 84-5, 153, 158 Dankala 126 Losar 19 Gasa 163 Darkila 134 ngang Lhakhang shey 21, 122 Jakar 114-16 daygo 214 nomad’s Festival 21 Jili 150 Dechen chholing Goemba 126 punakha Domchoe 19, 94 Lhuentse 134-5 Dechen phodrang 53 rangjung Woesel chholing Drup Mongar 132-3 139 Deer park Thimphu 55 paro 8, 73-6, shingkhar romney 126 deities 8 Tamshing phala choepa 20 chenresig 87, 94, 218, 221-2 punakha 6, 91-3, 6, 189 Ura Yakchoe 20, 126 protective 221, 223 rinpung 8, 73-6, 8 films 181, 213 shelging karpo 121-2, 185-6 shongar 130-1 fires delogs 220 simtokha 68 campfires 38 democracy 205 singye 134-5 Trashi chhoe 45-8 in dzongs 47, 57, 131, 145, 184, Deothang Goemba 122 236, 238 Trashi Yangtse 142-3 departure taxes 268 fishing 255 Trashigang 138 diarrhoea 276 Folk Heritage Museum 49 Trongsa 10, 110, 10 disabilities, travellers with 263 food 207-8, 258-9, see also chillies, Tshenkarla 142-6 Divine Madman 90, 92, 176, 189, doma, momos Wangchulo 87 224, 247 language 281-2 Do Zam 122 Wangdue phodrang 12, 96, 5, 12 Four Friends 6, 212, 228 Dochu La 89-90 Yugyel 161 Four noble Truths 216-17 Dodina 68, 157 Zuri 76 G Thowadrak 125 hot-stone baths 255 290 galleries, see museums Tiger’s nest 4, 82-4, 4 houses, traditional Bhutanese 233-5, Gampo, king songtsen 80, 82-3, 119, Tingchok 82 187, 234 170, 184, 230 Trashigang 67, 89 Gangchhenta 157, 161-2 Wangditse 66 i Gangkhar puensum 90, 125, 130-1, Yangtho 88 immigration 89, 266 167, 241 Yongla 145 immunisations 272-3 Gangla karchung La 173 Zangto pelri Lhakhang 144-5 indian nationals 28, 264, 269, 270-1 i ndex Gangte 34, 98 golf 54, 255 influenza 275 Gangte Goemba 98-9 Gom kora 141 insurance 259, 272 Gangte Trek 164-5, 165 government 180-1 internet access 259-65 Gasa 163 Goyul 160 internet resources Gasa Hot spring Trek 164, 160 Gross national Happiness 7, 181, arts 229 203-4 Gasa tsachhu 164 conservation 241 Guardians of the Four Directions gay travellers 259 handicrafts 226 187, 238 Gedu 102 health 273 guides, trekking 36 Gelephu 127 history 184 geography 241-3 Gur 152 itineraries 22-5, 22-5 ghos 62, 212, 7, 17 Guru rinpoche 185-90, 220, 223, , see also terma, tsechus Bumthang 24, 24 goembas 237-9, , see also 223 237 eastern Bhutan 25, chortens, dzongs, lhakhangs birthday 20 25 cheri 66-8 burial place 121 Dalay 90-1 Eight Manifestations 186-8, 232 J Dechen chholing 126 fights with demons 82-5, 87, 122 Jakar 114-19, 115 Dechen phodrang 53 relics 113, 120, 136, 141, 165, 177 Jakar Dzong 114-16 Deothang 122 rock paintings 66, 122, 145 Jampa 222 Drametse 136-7 statues 54, 81, 93, 103, 112, 116, Jampey Lhakhang 83, 119-20 121-3, 134, 187 Dranjo 82 Jampelyang 222 thondrol 73, 96 Drolay 66 Japanese B encephalitis 275 visit to Bhutan 92, 108, 119, 121-3, Drubthob 93 Jangchhu Lakha 150 125, 135, 168 Gangte 98-9 Jangothang 153, 155-6 Gyalpo, Thangtong 86 Haa Dratshang 88 Jhomolhari 38, 85, 87, 98, 150, 153-7 kharbandi 103 Jhomolhari Trek 153-7, 153, 5 khuruthang 91 h Jhomolhari Trek 2 157-9, 153 kunzangdrak 124 Haa 87-8 Jigme Dorji national park 248 Lamey 116 Haa Dratshang 88 Jigme singye Wangchuck national Lungchuzekha 66-7 Haa Dzongkhag 86-9 park 248 namkhe nyingpo 116 handicrafts 18, 54, 111, 113, 144, 226, Jili Dzong 150 see also ghos, kiras, weaving, nimalung 114 Jimilang Tsho 150 yathras pelseling 116 Jumja 102-3 health 210-11, 272-8, see also Juneydrak 88 phajoding 67, 12 immunisations, individual phokpey 169 illnesses prakhar 113-14 hepatitis 274 K rangjung Woesel chholing 139 hiking, see trekking, walking kagyupa 188 Taktshang 4, 82-4, 4 Himalaya 241-4, see also individual kanglung 144 Talakha 67, 152 mountains karma 217 Talo 90 Himalayan black bear 248-50 karma Drubdey nunnery 112 Tamshing 122-3, 8 Hinduism 216 kayaking 256 Tango 66-8 history 183-205, see also wars khaine Lhakhang 170 Thadranang 66 books 193, 194, 196, 197, 198, khaling 144 200-2, 205 Thakcho kunzang choeden anim kharung La 144 British in Bhutan 194-8 140 khoma 135 Buddhism 188, 215-16 Thangbi 122 khuru 214 internet resources 184 Tharpaling 113, 116 khuruthang 91, 91-5 Treaty of punakha 201 kila nunnery 87 HiV 274 kings, see also Dragon kings, Map pages