Volume 17 Issue 11

Blue Mountain House Arrington, Nelson County, Virginia

Isabel

Blue Mountain Brewery in Virginia long before Blue Mountain’s first along the border of the George has already made quite a name location opened 13 years ago. As Washington National Forest, for itself within Virginia’s craft an enthusiast of world-class , incorporates a wide range of lessons- beer scene, including bringing you’ve likely heard of Bourbon learned over the years. The “rural home eight Great American Beer County from Chicago’s brewpub” model at Blue Mountains’ Festival medals since opening up Goose Island—one of the very original location encouraged them to in 2007. Many breweries would first bourbon-barrel-aged in go off-grid with their water, drilling (and do) take the obvious route the U.S. It’s also been considered a well to ensure more consistent and from there in terms of expansion: one of the finest examples out pristine supplies than they’d likely get invest in a production facility, there, even long after everyone’s from conventional city water. Hundreds focus on pumping out as much jumped on the barrel-aging of currently occupy the Barrel of their best-selling offerings bandwagon. For over a year, House—like Maker’s Mark, Wild Turkey, as possible, and settle in Taylor was the only person Four Roses, and (Virginia to the core) for the long haul. With in the world producing Elijah Craig—allowing them to pursue a the opening in 2011 of that stout, after he’d wide variety of experimental beers and their second location, taken over blending programs. Blue Mountain Barrel responsibilities at Goose House, Master Brewer Island during 2000 and And then there are the cows. Perhaps Taylor Smack and fellow 2001. That one-of-a-kind partners gave a pretty brewing experience has (Continued on reverse page) clear indication that they certainly informed the are decidedly not like direction Blue Mountain SPECIFICATIONS most breweries. has been taking with Style their Barrel House Bourbon-Barrel-Aged Imperial It’s a great pleasure to projects, and suffice to Porter w/ Cocoa Nibs & Orange Peel introduce Taylor Smack say that he’s got some Alcohol By Volume 8% and the Blue Mountain other tricks up his sleeve. Serving Temperature Barrel House to our Rare 52–59° F Beer Club members. Blue Mountain Barrel Suggested Glassware Taylor’s brewing House, overlooking Small Nonic, Tulip, or Snifter experience extends back 4,000-foot mountains and pristine supplies than they’d likely put together a state-of-the-art custom color, capped by a creamy tan head get from conventional city water. brewhouse (with the folks at Premier with excellent retention and lacing. Hundreds of barrels currently occupy Stainless in southern California) that, Generous aromatics of milk and dark the Barrel House—like Maker’s Mark, instead of collecting in two completely chocolate, with firm citrus notes from Wild Turkey, Four Roses, and (Virginia separated stages, allows them to the orange peel. There’s a lot going on to the core) Elijah Craig—allowing them constantly shift their sugar extraction with the underlying imperial porter, to pursue a wide variety of experimental between two kettles: greatly decreasing offering up robust notes of leather and beers and blending programs. the amount of waste, while allowing dark fruits, alongside lots of cocoa and them to artfully blend the flow into not some warming bourbon character and And then there are the cows. Perhaps one, but two exceptional beers. (Sorry, oak from the barrel time. Everything’s the most unique element of their new cows!) well integrated and smooth, offering a Barrel House results from the sinking rich porter base with a solid chocolate- feeling that Taylor used to get at their We’re pleased to offer RBC members orange vibe. Both special ingredients brewpub whenever he emptied out our favorite release so far from Blue show nicely. the spent grain left over from making Mountain Barrel House: the brewery’s Dark Hollow, which (even after giving Isabel, a delicious, bourbon-barrel-aged Blue Mountain’s Isabel offers substantial up much of its character to that hefty imperial porter that otherwise only sees mouthfeel and body, leading with imperial stout) was still full of useable seasonal distribution in Virginia. Be sure expansive cocoa and roasted . sugars. While this is an (ordinarily) to keep up with Taylor and company A rich, deep, flavorful imperial porter inevitable part of the mashing process, (at bluemountainbrewery.com) as they forms the core, leading with darker it felt like a major waste. “I’m sure the continue to explore the bounds of chocolate and roasted nuttiness, with cows loved it,” Taylor jokes, referencing world-class brewing. licorice and barrel char on the perimeter their habit of using the spent grain as adding some welcome bitterness. The farm feed. Isabel additions of cocoa nibs and orange peel meld seamlessly with that base, Again, most breweries would do the Blue Mountain Brewery’s Isabel is an amplifying the core presence of standard thing: stick to the norm. Instead imperial bourbon-barrel-aged porter chocolates and introducing a zesty citrus Taylor and his brewery team decided made with cocoa nibs and orange peels. counterpoint. The bourbon-barrel aging to instead create the only dedicated, Named after Isabel, the Princess Imperial contributes a delicious, chewy layer of advanced parti-gyle brewing setup in the of Brazil in the late 1800s—nicknamed bourbon complexity atop everything— country (at the time, at least), allowing “the Redemptress”, she emancipated providing a final layering of nicely oaked them to not only better extract more the slaves of Brazil after signing Lei spirit to complement the base beer. of that sugary goodness from a given Áurea (the “Golden Law”) in 1888— mash, but to make two beers at once. this imperial porter brings together the Pairing & Aging Notes: influence of bourbon barrels (Isabel was “Parti-gyle?” you might ask, “Isn’t that part of the Royal House of Bourbon) as Isabel is sturdy enough for some cellaring that thing in which you make a beer, well as orange and cocoa (Brazil being a time, and we’ve enjoyed bottles of this and then you make another smaller beer leading producer of both). That concept aged a year or two that were drinking with whatever’s left over?” Yes. And results in an exceptionally good barrel- right on point. The orange-peel addition no. Parti-gyle brewing is most typically aged imperial porter. Isabel is a winter will probably show most clearly when seen as a way of making “small beers” seasonal from Blue Mountain, usually fresh. For pairings: the chocolate-orange in the U.S., which honestly tend to taste sold only in Virginia. Their latest batch focus here should prove very flexible like the runner-up beers they inherently is getting specially packaged into 750mL within the larger vanilla/chocolate/fruit are: thin, frequently astringent, with bottles for our club members. spectrum of dessert options. only a handful of solid exceptions. At Blue Mountain Barrel House, they’ve This pours a deep, dark chocolate-brown

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August Schell Brewing Company New Ulm, Minnesota

Solar Evolution

August Schell was born in Germany’s brewery grew steadily over the of breweries in the early half of the century, Black Forest region in 1828. After years, and the Schells would build a August Schell’s Brewing Company survived studying to be a machinist, he mansion on the brewery grounds by transitioning their production line to immigrated to the U.S. in 1848— in 1885, complete with elaborate making near beer (0.5% or so ABV), soft traveling to New Orleans by a gardens and a deer park—all drinks, and candy. They kept a secret steamer ship before stopping in currently still around and listed in basement brewery for their workers. Cincinnati, where he found work the National Register of Historic at the Cincinnati Locomotive Works, Sites. August’s arthritis would The brewery survived many more challenges as well as his future wife, Theresa eventually have him back off of to follow, including a glut of new breweries Hermann. They married in 1853, daily operations, with his sons in the 1970s and financial struggles in their before leaving Cincinnati with their stepping in to manage things. myriad forms, but remained aloft and was two young children in 1856 as part After August passed away in 1891, the first brewery in Minnesota to produce of a contingent from the Turner his son Otto led the brewery craft beers in the 1980s, with German-style Colonization Society of Cincinnati, forward. craft lagers. A wheat beer was added in 1984 traveling by river boat to see (“the first wheat beer after Prohibition”), what lay further west. Led by Over the years, the extended and by 1990 there were 38 different beers Wilhelm Pfaender, their group Schell family would being produced by the brewery. A new founded New Ulm in 1857, expand the brewery, state-of-the-art brewhouse was added with August finding work in upgrading and buying in 1999, the classic Grain Belt brand was a flour mill. new equipment, purchased and kept alive in 2002 (after including refrigeration. Minnesota Brewing Co. went bankrupt), That didn’t last long. In Up until 1900, its and a new gift shop and taproom were 1860, August partnered brewing calendar (Continued on reverse page) up with Jacob was determined Bernhardt, who had by the weather, served as brewmaster with ice being SPECIFICATIONS at Benzberg Brewery collected from the (later to become Cottonwood River Style Minnesota Brewing and stored inside Flanders-red-inspired Berlin-Style Wheat aged in Cypress Tanks Company…), and caves under the the two built a small brewery, controlling Alcohol By Volume 6.9% brewery nearby right the fermentation along the Cottonwood temps, until the Serving Temperature River, producing ice melted. As 42–50° F about 200 barrels of Prohibition served to Suggested Glassware beer annually. The new bring down a majority Tulip, Goblet, or Chalice added in 2005. All throughout the years, the brewery’s Noble Star Collection— A potent lemony acidity and accompanying the brewery continued to adapt to the inspired by Berlin-style wheat beers. dark berries lead the impact, with zesty changing beer scene. This particularly ambitious entry into tartness guaranteed from that first sip. The the collection combines the traditional fine-bubbled carbonation contributes to In 2012—and particularly key for one of this brewing methods of Flanders Red and a very appealing mouthfeel overall: nicely month’s featured beers—Schell’s began Berliner Weisse, beginning with a wheat- creamy, smooth, and well punctuated by their Noble Star Collection, a series of based Flanders Red Ale recipe, which then the acidity, plus refreshing throughout. The beers inspired by German Berliner Weisse. gets brewed with the core methods of the range of fruit expression is exceptional: Cypress wood from brewery tanks dating Noble Star Collection: including a no-boil, lemon wedge with salt, currant and back to 1936 were repurposed for the mixed-culture fermentation, before the blackberries, ripe cherries and subtle apple. project, providing porous material that was beer gets aged in 80-year-old cypress wood Plus, serious complexity from the Flanders perfect for brewing this style of beer, and lagering tanks for a year with a strain of base: leather, plum, plenty of dried dark these tanks are used for each of the beers Brettanomyces bruxellensis. fruit... The complexity and bright in the Noble Star line, starting with Star of lactic tarness serve to balance each other the North in 2013. Starkeller, Schell’s sour- The brewery took a break from producing out, keeping this hugely drinkable and in beer-dedicated facility, opened its taproom Solar Evolution in 2019, and only about line with what we’ve come to expect from to the public in 2017, allowing visitors to 160 cases of it were sold in 2018, confined the Noble Star Collection: super smooth, enjoy these German-style tart beers right to Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, and the complex, and so worth digging into. next to the ancient cypress tanks they’re Dakotas. aged in. Aging & Pairing Notes: Solar Evolution pours a deep, burgundy- This month we’re pleased to feature our brown hue with a resilient cover of light-tan August Schell’s Solar Evolution is fit for favorite release to date from August foam. Impressive retention and lacing, with some cellaring time, but it’s drinking Schell’s Noble Star Collection—the nicely compact bubbles. Generous degrees great already. The combination of lemony Flanders-red-inspired Solar Evolution. For of lemony tartness and ripe cherry lead the brightness and deep red fruits have those looking for a bit more history, learn aromatics. Mouthwatering tartness, for us looking to pair this with spicy pork more about this 150+-year-old brewery at sure, alongside lots of deep currant and tenderloin or some creamy, lightly funky www.schellsbrewery.com. blackberry notes and soft wood. Impressive cheeses. depth to the aroma, and an engaging Solar Evolution combo of Flanders-red complexity with the liveliness of a lean Berliner Weisse. August Schell’s Solar Evolution is part of

Beyond the Bottle: One Long-Ass Year By Ken Weaver

Typing this in late October, I have no clue where anyone’s here in Sonoma County—something I’d been meaning to do back headspace will be when the club newsletter actually goes out. in February before this all started. Energy-wise, I’ve been scraping I’ll assume it’s been a really long year for everyone reading bottom, and that seems a pretty common vibe around here. We this. We’re still gonna be a long ways off from a widespread rely on the people around us for support, and when everybody’s functional COVID vaccine (fingers crossed for 2021…), and most going through months and months of shit together, it helps to of our friends and fam—myself included—have been relying try and be aware of when we’re hitting an unsustainable gear. on our normal coping mechanisms way more than usual to get Personally: my coping mechanisms were no match for 2020. through 2020. Our kegerator has been getting a workout. We’ve Wherever you’re at, just remember you deserve a strong support been playing video games, or brewing, or working out, or doing system helping you through whatever the world’s throwing this chores, or doomscrolling way more than we normally might. week. Here’s to a better year ahead. What a friggin year. Ken Weaver is a freelance beer writer and illustrator based in I’ve definitely become more aware of my limits. After we hit a Petaluma, California. He makes a webcomic about beer and survival recent peak in wildfire season, I finally reached out to a therapist at MassivePotions.com | Insta, Twitter: @MassivePotions

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