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Home-Brewing Methods Home-Brewing Methods Brewing Is Fundamentally a Natural Process

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Home-Brewing Methods Home-Brewing Methods Brewing Is Fundamentally a Natural Process 6 2 Home-brewing methods Home-brewing methods Brewing is fundamentally a natural process. The brewer’s art is in converting natural products into a pleasing beverage – namely malted barley and hops into ale. A brief outline of the process is as follows: Stage 1 – the mash The brewing process begins with mashing, which involves mixing crushed malted barley (grist) and hot water (liquor) to make a sloppy porridge (the mash). This porridge is held at a fairly constant temperature of around 66°C for about 90 minutes. This extracts sugars from the malted barley. After the 90-minute standing period the liquid is drained from the mash and a process known as sparging begins. Sparging is brewer-speak for rinsing, and this entails slowly sprinkling hot liquor over the grains to rinse out entrapped sugars. Stage 2 – boiling and fermentation The sugary liquid is then transferred to a boiler, which brewers usually call a copper. It is boiled for 90 minutes along with a quantity of hops. The boil sterilises the liquid, now called wort, and causes unwanted excessive protein to coagulate and settle out. The hops provide additional flavour and aroma, and add preservative properties to the beer. When the boiling period is over, the wort is cooled and transferred to a fermenting vessel. Yeast is added and fermentation begins. Fermentation converts the majority of the sugar into alcohol and takes about five days. The beer is then transferred to cask and matured for a period for the flavours to mellow and round out. It is then ready for consumption. As home-brewers we can either buy the malt where stage 1 is performed for us in a factory, as grain and brew our own fully-mashed, and we just perform stage 2. Mashing from all-grain beers (Full mash brewing). This grain produces the best quality beers and involves performing the full process, which gives the brewer total control over his process, includes stage 1 and stage 2. Or we can use whereas malt extract eliminates the need for a simplified method (Malt extract brewing) mashing and is more convenient. 2 Home-brewing methods 7 All of the recipes in this book are designed Malt extract brewing for full mash brewing, and many of them Malt extract is certainly the most convenient have a malt extract version too. You can way of brewing – it knocks an hour or two brew using your own preferred method. off the brewing process when compared to brewing from grain (full mash), and you do not need as much equipment. It is very easy to do Full mash brewing – no more difficult than making up a beer kit. With a fully mashed beer the fermentable You do not usually even need to bother about sugars are produced from crushed malted water treatment. Malt extract will produce barley grain. Mashing from grain requires convenient, palatable beers, but many people more equipment than extract brewing – a believe that an extract beer does not compare mash tun, or at least a grain bag, will be with a fully-mashed beer in terms of quality required. It also requires more care and and flavour. attention, and it will take about a day to While a well-made mashed beer will make a brew. Nevertheless, it is well worth always have the edge over an extract beer, not the effort. Brewing from grain is the best everyone has the time or equipment required way to emulate the commercial recipes in to mash. Few people realise that top quality this book because that is what the breweries beers can be produced at home using malt themselves do. Mashing produces distinctive, extract. Home-brewing methods quality beers, and is the only technique All of the ingredients are simply boiled that gives the brewer complete and flexible vigorously for an hour or so and then strained control over his product. into the fermentation bin. However, with It may seem to take a leap of faith to this simple boil-up method the brewer is enter into fully-mashed or all-grain brewing, restricted in the range of ingredients that he but it is far easier in practice than it appears can use. Only those ingredients that do not on paper. Admittedly it is a good idea to get require enzymic conversion (which occurs some brewing experience first by brewing during mashing) can be used. Apart from malt with a beer kit or malt extract to get the extract; crystal malt, chocolate malt, black fundamentals of brewing under your belt. malt, roast barley, and a fair range of speciality Read the step-by-step, full-mash brewing malts can be used. Cereal adjuncts should not instructions in this book, and you are ready be used, but this is not a serious disadvantage. to go. Start off with a basic recipe and do not Many beer buffs regard the use of adjuncts as mess around with much in the way of water adulteration anyway, and the use of adjuncts treatment initially – that will come later. in commercial beer is becoming rare. The Half the battle with full-mash brewing is complete range of brewing sugars and syrups psychological – there’s nothing like actually can be used. doing it to get your head round the process. Many of the recipes in this book can be All of the recipes in this book can brewed using this method. Full instructions be brewed using the full mash method. are given on p84. 66 4 Home-brewing equipment Carefully insert the hydrometer into the wort or beer, holding it at 3 the top of the stem, and release it gently when it is approximately at its position of equilibrium. Take the reading at the bottom of the meniscus at eye level Give the hydrometer a gentle spin to release CO bubbles clinging to it which can raise the 4 2 hydrometer higher in the beer and give a higher than true reading. Stop the spin by gripping the top of the stem, then give the stem a very small downward depression into the beer and wait for the bouncing to stabilise. Ensure that the hydrometer is not touching the side of the trial jar. It is almost a prerequisite Take the reading at eye level through the for home-brewers to own liquid. The correct reading is at the bottom 5 a set of digital kitchen of the meniscus on the same plane as the scales. These are the only surface of the beer, not at the top of the easily-available gadgets meniscus where the surface of the liquid that can be used to weigh, actually touches the hydrometer. Take the say, 25 grams of hops with reading before more CO bubbles cling 2 reasonable accuracy. to the sides again. Take a temperature reading immediately afterwards and, if necessary, correct the 6 reading for temperature by using the temperature-correction tables (see p229). If the temperature is much different from ambient, it is better to take two temperature measurements, one immediately before and one immediately after taking the SG measurement, then find the average. Volume measures and weighing equipment The measurement of small quantities is often required in home-brewing: cleaning chemicals, water treatment salts, Irish moss, finings, etc. Kitchen spoons and cups are okay for most things, but sometimes something a little less hit and miss is required. Plastic or stainless-steel measuring cups are a useful accessory. They usually come as a set of four or six with a range of sizes from about 25 ml up to 250 ml. Do not, however, rely on the calibrations on kitchen measuring jugs. Accurate measurement of small volumes of liquid can be achieved by calibrated medicine syringes available from pharmacies. These are available in a range of sizes from 5 ml up to about 25 ml. 4 Home-brewing equipment 67 Boiler A boiler (called a ‘copper’ in brewerspeak) capable of boiling a full batch of beer is an essential item of equipment whether you are making full-mash or malt extract beers. We need to boil large volumes of wort, sometimes in excess of our final volume of beer, if we sparge overenthusiastically. There are several types of boiler available to us. The home-brew industry supplies a range of electric boilers of various sorts, and there are commercial types intended for the catering industry which can be adapted for home-brewing. The boilers made specifically for home-brewing are usually based on plastic bins or buckets with a kettle element fitted as a heater. However, these days kettle elements are harder to Boiler with concealed element find, because most modern kettles have integral, concealed, and integral hop strainer non-replaceable elements. Thus the supply of spare elements is diminishing and likely to dry up completely sometime in the My own boiler is only near future. A likely substitute is the 11-inch, 3kW immersion 26 litres capacity, plus heater element, at least until something better surfaces. a small amount of Home-brewing equipment Although there are issues with fitting immersion heater headroom, and I cope elements, they are better than kettle elements for various, with it well enough, but slightly technical, reasons. a slightly larger boiler There are a couple of well-known brands of the plastic would be better. My bin type of boiler, that are supplied by the wholesalers to the brewing procedure is shops, but some shops construct their own. The shop-built tailored so that I try not ones are often better value and have a hop strainer fitted.
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