ISSUE 14 SUMMER 2007 14 SUMMER ISSUE Greater Plutonio FPSO arrives ON SITE: ■ CULTURE | Pictures by Kandengues Unidos Luanda Orphans BUSINESS | OIL | IN A TIN: ■ ANGOLA Sonangol Namibe joins the family niverso niverso U U ON TIME: Block 31 offshore Angola Block 31 offshore

SONANGOL UNIVERSO ISSUE 14 – SUMMER 2007

ISSUE 14 SUMMER 2007

INSIDE SONANGOL INSIDE ANGOLA Something Big 30 There is an awesome 30. Troubled Eden grandeur about almost For a region of such distracting everything to do with beauty and easy-going lifestyle, the oil industry: the now, as it rebuilds its future ambitious concepts, the TENTS Uíge has seen more than its fair huge structures, the share of disruptive influences amazing technological achievements – and the almost unimaginable 36. Paradise in sums invested to extract Waiting the sought after gas and liquid. With a new international airport

CON In this issue we salute two momentous 36 and world-class hotels under events. The first is the arrival in Angolan construction, Angola’s tourism waters of the world’s biggest FPSO, exclusively minister sees a time when the photographed for Universo soon after it country can be less dependent arrived on Block 18. 8 14 on oil The second is the delivery of the fifth Suezmax crude carrier to join the Sonangol 8. Our Growing Family 42. Child’s Eye View fleet, the Sonangol Namibe, taking its total tonnage to just under 800,000 deadweight As the m/t Sonangol Namibe departs Korea’s The camera obscura was the tonnes. As our special report from Korea Okpo shipyard to begin her travels across the first mechanical means of repro- describes, her crew includes an elite cadre of Sonangol oceans of the world, so begins another chapter ducing a picture of an actual youthful Angolan officers and cadets, products Rua 1° Congresso do MPLA, for Sonangol Shipping scene. Pictures taken by N.º 8-16 of the Sonangol maritime scholarship scheme. Caixa Postal 1316, Luanda Luanda’s orphans demonstrate República de Angola how potent this simple tech- Elsewhere, we explore the highlands and Tel: +244 2 391 182 14. Win-Win Opportunity nique still is. forests of Uíge to reveal a province of much Fax: +244 2 391 782 beauty and tranquillity, and imparting some Telex: 2089 SONANG AN Angolanisation and local content are buzz hopeful possibilities in contrast to the starker [email protected] words long familiar to Angola’s oil sector – and 46. Fly Like a Bird another successful Sonangol-led initiative shows news that more usually comes from this region. Sonangol USA (Sonusa) Since Icarus, it has been man’s The future opportunities of tourism to the 1177 Enclave Parkway one way of making it happen Second Floor dream to take wings, and skim- country as a whole are discussed in an exclusive Houston,TX 77077 ming over the Atlantic surf of interview with tourism minister Eduardo USA 18. On Site – on Time Chingunji, together with a profile of the cur- Tel: +1 281 920 7600 46 the Ilha a growing number of Fax: +1 281 920 7666 18 On the eve of first oil from the Greater Plutonio young Luandans experience rent state of the industry. [email protected] Field Universo meets Mary Shafer-Malicki, just that The swooping kitesurfers of the Ilha are a Sonangol UK newly- appointed leader of the BP Angola reminder of summer days now on the wane in Merevale House Business Unit Angola, and we are afforded some fascinating Brompton Place 50. Out to Lunch glimpses of life in Luanda through the eyes of London SW3 1QE Hardly a week goes by without United Kingdom children using old tin cans for cameras. Tel: +44 207 838 4600 22. Small is Beautiful a new restaurant opening its To round off the menu, we go on a gastro- Fax: +44 207 589 9454 Angola’s exploration and production boom is doors in Luanda, adding to the nomic tour of Luanda’s favourite restaurants – Telex: 893212 SONANG set to continue as the oil majors are joined by a eclectic choice of eating places a big treat, we hope. Sonangol Asia growing band of local and international compa- available in the capital 3 Temasek Avenue nies defined by their entrepreneurial spirit --The Editor 31-04 Centennial Tower Singapore 039190 50 Tel: : +65 64 16 3583 Fax: +65 64 16 3582 24. West Africa Hub Sonangol Department for Communication & Image –– Director: João Rosa Santos; Corporate Communications Assistant: Cristina de Novaes As the principal support for its west and south- This magazine is produced for Sonangol by Impact Media Global Ltd, 53 Chandos Place, London WC2N 4HS, UK, Tel: +44 20 7812 6400~ Fax: +44 20 7812 6413 ern African operations, Vetco Gray’s Luanda Publisher: Sheila O’Callaghan; Group President: John Charles Gasser; Project Consultant: Nathalie MacCarthy base is centrally located to deliver rapid Editor: Peter Moeller; Sub-editor: Ron Gribble; Art Director: Lisa Pampillonia; Advertising Design: Bernd Wojtczack; Circulation Manager: Matthew Alexander Contributors: Nina Asz, Karen Iley, Bruce McMichael Cover Photo: m/t Sonangol Namibe (PMP Global) response to its sub-Saharan clients All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical without prior permission in writing from the publishers. 24 [email protected]

4 SONANGOL UNIVERSO NEWS IN BRIEF

Chevron has notched up another important discovery in the deep waters offshore Terminal expertise New Partner Royal Boskalis Westminster and the Jan Eni is to join the $4 billion project to Angola in Block 14. The de Nul Group have been awarded the con- build an LNG plant at Soyo in northern Lucapa-1 well, spudded in tract to develop the landing site for the Soyo Angola after buying a 13.6 per cent late 2006 in water depths of LNG export terminal. The $400m contract stake in a company in charge of the 1,201m, is the tenth explo- involves dredging an access channel and cre- project, the Angola LNG Limited consor- ration discovery made in the First meeting ating an artificial island to allow the LNG tium (ALNG). Partners in the project block since 1997. Angola’s Senior oil carriers to berth. About 5 million cubic metres include Sonangol, Chevron, Total and Sonangol is developing plans officials have for the first of dredged material will be used to create BP. Earlier this year, super- time attended a quarterly 140 hectares of new land on which the major ExxonMobil to put some of its non-oil sector meeting of the Organisation of terminal will be built. A contract for transferred its 13.6 interests up for sale, with local Petroleum Exporting Countries (Opec) advance engineering and procure- per cent stake in the companies being the preferred since being admitted to the organisation in January. The assembly took place on March 12. ment has also been awarded to project to buyers. According to chairman Angola is the newest member of the influential group, and is the organisation’s first new member engineering company Sonangol, Manuel Vicente, the develop- since 1975, but is not yet subjected to monthly Opec production quotas. Bechtel. The project is whose share ment of the Angolan business Opec meetings generally take place in Austria at the Vienna headquarters of the organisation scheduled for completion rose to 36.4 sector will enable the company that represents the interests of 12 leading oil production and exporting countries, which include by the end of 2008. per cent. to sell off peripheral businesses Iran, Libya, Nigeria, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Venezuela. and allow the group to focus on The next Opec ministerial conference has been scheduled for September, when the decision will its core exploration and produc- be made on which of Angola’s three crudes – Cabinda, Palanca and Girassol – will be used in the tion activities. cartel’s oil price index. Opec’s benchmark index is set according to production and export levels of member countries. Spoilt for Choice Saipem has scooped $1 billion Angola’s membership of Opec follows a significant growth in the country’s political influence in Sonangol sponsored 2nd Regional Deepwater Offshore West Africa Conference and worth of contracts for offshore West Africa after agreeing ties with São Tomé and Príncipe and heading the revival of the region- Exhibition, being held for the first time in Luanda from October 3-6, has an embarrassment of and onshore services around the al co-operation body, the Gulf of Guinea Commission (GGC). Along with the two riches in attracting no less than 175 abstracts. world including Angola. Saipem Portuguese-speaking countries, the GGC is made up of Gabon, Nigeria, Equatorial Guinea, “We had planned to present no more than 60 during the three-day event,” says Gerard Kreeft, will begin installing a pipeline Cameroon and the Republic of Congo. managing director of the organisers, Energywise. “But rather than reject so many valuable con- system in Chevron’s offshore tributions, we have decided to re-jig the programme to run three parallel sessions instead of the Block 0 Mafumeira oilfield at the original two. This means that the technical committee will now be able to select 90 – 100 end of 2007. abstracts,” he adds. The unexpected number of high-quality papers received is also reflected in the keenness to par- ILLUSTRATIONS: GREG GRIGORIOU Total has flowed first oil from Local presence China exit ticipate in the exhibition running in conjunction with the conference at Luanda’s new the huge Dália oilfield, devel- American Bureau of Sonangol’s negotiations with Sinopec have ended state-of-the-art Talatona Conference Centre. oped at a cost of $4 billion. Shipping (ABS) is expanding without agreement over ambitious plans to invest in a More than 50 per cent of the space has already been booked promising a potentially successful Lying in Block 17, the field is its Angolan presence by hiring $3 billion oil refinery at Lobito. Chinese companies have event. expected to pump up to new staff. John Gallagher, played a leading role in the recent oil-driven reconstruc- 240,000bpd and is the first in director of offshore technolo- tion boom, with Angola recognised as one of China’s the world to produce such vis- gy and business development, most important suppliers of crude oil. Planning for the Filters tipped Going to Market cous, acid oil at depths of ABS Europe, says: “We are Lobito refinery will now focus on producing a range of Weatherford Angola, the Sonangol may join the working closely with the products that will be marketed interna- Angolan subsidiary of US engineer- Johannesburg and New between 1,200 and 1,500m. Angolan government to iden- tionally, rather than focusing ing company Weatherford York stock exchanges by Mustang Engineering, a sub- tify and train suitable local solely on supplying International, is to start exporting 2010, according to chair- sidiary of international energy candidates as part of our pro- China. sand filters for oil well drilling oper- man Manuel Vicente. services company John Wood gramme to assist in ations this year when the first Joining the stock markets Group, is to design the compli- developing a core of maritime factory on the African continent will allow Sonangol to ant piled tower (CPT) for expertise within the country.” begins production. The plant repre- access international capi- Chevron’s Tombua–Landana The classification society sents an investment of around $20 tal markets, with Vicente might set up a second office million and will manufacture filters pointing out that development project, located in the northern city of Soyo to and drilling countersinks that will Sonangol has never been within the eastern portion of manage its work on the pro- be used in the energy, civil engi- in better financial health as it is Block 14 in approximately 366m posed liquefied natural gas neering, architecture and mining today, and thus well placed to of water. (LNG) terminal. sectors. consider such a move.

6 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 7 NEWBUILDING our rowing Gfamily As the m/t Sonangol Namibe departs Korea’s Okpo shipyard to start her travels across the oceans of the world, so begins another chapter for Sonangol Shipping

At precisely 18.10 on the evening of March 22, as her last mooring line slips into the waters of No 2 AQuay at the sprawling Daewoo Shipbuilding and Marine Engineering (DSME) shipyard south of Pusan, Korea, the motor tanker Sonangol Namibe remains motionless. Like a person just awakened from their slum- bers to reflect on their plans for the future, so perhaps there was a moment of contemplation on a life of service – maybe 30 years – about to begin. Three years after she was conceived with the sign- ing of the contract to build Hull 5277 in June 2004, Sonangol’s newest Suezmax crude carrier was on the point of leaving her birthplace, never to return. Now, with the last inches of welding complete, the myriad of classification and survey forms approved and signed, fuel tanks topped-up and every surface from stem to stern, gleaming with new paint, the Sonangol Namibe had come alive and was almost on her way – first to Singapore and then to Mina Al Fahal, Oman to receive her first cargo destined for Meizhou, China. The previous day she had been officially named by Lucinda Guimarães, commercial operations director of Sonangol EP, in the presence of chair- man and Chief Executive Manuel Vicente, Angola’s Minister of Petroleum Desidéiro Costa and Mr S. T. Nam, DSME president and chief executive, and a host of well wishers from the company and others who will be involved with her future.

SUMMER 2007 9 PMP GLOBAL PROUD MOMENT: Mrs Lucinda Guimarães, Commercial Operations Director, Sonangol EP names ON DUTY: Second Engineer Francisco Miranda with Manuel Vicente, m/t Sonangol Namibe, applauded by DSME President, Mr S.T. Nam. Chairman Sonangol EP and Angola’s Minister of Petroleum, H.E. Desidério SHINING EXAMPLE: Every surface glistens as Sonangol Namibe is ready to take her leave of Okpo Costa, who takes a keen interest in Sonangol’s maritime scholarship scheme Master and

PMP GLOBAL Commander DMSE Ever since he first went to sea in 1970, Captain Deepak Nigam has always wanted to work in tankers, though his early experience was gained in containers and general cargo carriers. “I relish the challenge,” he says. “Tankers are just so much more demanding.” Having worked with Wallem Ship Management since 1975, he obtained his Master’s ticket in 1981 and was promoted master in 1984. Captain Nigam first came to Sonangol Shipping in 2005, since when he has skippered both Girassol and Kassanje. Prior to that, he had worked mainly on ultra-large crude carriers (ULCCs) and was the take-over master of both the “jumbo-ised” Jahre

As she performed the ceremony in the small margin, but one which can represent sig- tings, in various specialist areas spread across ceremony, Baptista Sumbe Sonangol USA “As long as she spring sunshine, Ms Guimarães said: “As long nificant savings in the faster delivery of a full the 400-hectare shipyard. These are then executive chairman said: “It would be difficult sails, I wish this as she sails, I wish this remarkable ship cargo of crude and with greater fuel efficiency. brought together in the huge dry docks for to measure the excellent relationship between favourable weather and smooth voyages. May “Namibe also embodies other improve- welding together. Sonangol and DSME, and I offer my warm remarkable ship God bless her and all who sail in her.” While ments in construction which will increase her For Namibe, stage one, involving the cut- thanks to its management and staff for this ship’s horns hooted around the yard, the name life to 30 years, as against 20 years for her sis- ting of the steel plates to laying the keel, took valuable support.” favourable Sonangol Namibe was revealed on her bows. ters in the fleet,” says Mr Andersson. “These just over four months – from June to October His words were echoed by DSME president She is the fifth Suezmax tanker to join the mainly relate to upgraded structural features, 2006. Ten weeks later, on January 20, the large- Mr S. T. Nam, who said: “Our relationship has weather and Sonangol Shipping fleet, bringing its total ton- improved materials and more detailed weld- ly completed hull was floated for final fitting lasted for ten years. We are very impressed by smooth voyages. nage to almost 800,000 deadweight tonnes ing. For example, Namibe’s closed double out alongside a quay. the management of Sonangol and with the (dwt). All have been built to the same bottom extends into the aft pump room, This tight schedule is crucial to avoid quality of their staff and supervisors who have May God bless 159,000dwt design, with minor modifications which adds safety and strength – and there is potential bottlenecks in the dry dock and all worked with us at Okpo.” based on operating experience and to meet built-in permanent means of access to every effort is focused on floating out at the earliest These sentiments were endorsed by petro- her and all who the requirements for greater efficiency. part of the vessel to allow for easier close-up opportunity to enable on-time delivery dates leum minister Desidério Costa who said: Viking, as well as the Sea The entire newbuilding was overseen at the inspections.” to be achieved. “Angola’s oil industry is growing fast. We hope Giant, the world’s largest sail in her.” DSME yard by a Sonangol team under the With its registration in Nassau, Bahamas, Two months later, just eight months after that next year production will pass 2 million designed-and-built vessel. direction of Sonangol Shipping fleet manager Namibe embodies all the latest safety require- the first steel was cut, Namibe was delivered to bpd. Other important milestones will be the “I am especially looking Lucinda Guimarães, Catarino Pereira. ments and is equipped with state-of-the-art her new owners. Angola LNG project and the new refinery at forward to commanding Commercial Operations “Namibe is very similar to Kassanje, deliv- navigation and communications equipment. With such an intricate, fast-moving opera- Lobito. These developments are possible Namibe,” he says. “She is a Director, Sonangol EP ered in June 2005,” says project manager Jan State-of-the-art applies equally to the hi- tion, heavy responsibility rests on the through the vision of our leadership, our fine new vessel and has ben- Andersson who supervised the building opera- tech DSME shipyard, now one of the world shoulders of Mr Andersson and his team from humility, hard work – and the contribution our efited from the experience tion. “The only changes are to the design of leaders in shipbuilding and capable of turning Seaquest Marine Project Management, spe- partners.” gained in building and oper- the hull, mainly to get better performance for out more than 50 large commercial vessels, cialists in working with owners and builders to Mr Sumbe see these as early days. In ating her Sonangol sisters. the same 22,920bhp engine power.” offshore structures and military craft a year. ensure that ships are delivered to specification February 2005 he said: “We are growing. I I’m also looking forward to This means that her single 55-tonne screw Its secret is minutely planned mass pro- and in superior condition. already have a mandate to go for three more passing on my knowledge will drive her through the water at a service duction techniques that involve the The launch of Namibe also marks a high units if the market is right, and to continue and experience to my youth- speed of 15.5 knots, as against 15.2 for the first pre-construction of gigantic ship-sections, point in the harmonious bonds enjoyed by Sonangol’s policy of becoming an integrated ful team of officers and in the series, Sonangol Girassol – an apparently complete with internal piping and other fit- Sonangol and DSME. Speaking at the naming oil company from exploration right through to cadets.”

10 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 11 DSME PMP GLOBAL

slowly building a cadre of trained deck officers and engineers, is the start of a new maritime “Our relationship has tradition for Angola – served by professionals who will bring a host of new skills and jobs to lasted for ten years, and the country. we are very impressed by “Remember, we can always build ships,” concluded Mr Sumbe at the naming ceremo- the management of ny. “But please join me in saluting these young men. They are our truly precious resource – Sonangol, and with the examples of the greatest contribution that Sonangol can provide for our nation in edu- quality of their staff and cating its young people and providing them supervisors who have with a good job opportunity. “Sonangol will continue to train more and worked with us at Okpo.” more candidates. Shipping is part of the core business of the company. And with the advent Mr S T Nam, President, of Angola LNG and the Lobito Refinery, more ships will be needed, and surely the shipping Daewoo Shipbuilding & culture will grow and be consolidated here in Marine Engineering Angola.” ❖

“Remember, we distribution – as well as offering training m/t Sonangol Namibe Crude oil tanker, built by the Daewoo can always build opportunities in all the aspects of vessel management.” Shipbuilding and Marine Engineering Co Ltd ships, but please At Okpo, he reaffirmed these points, first Delivered: March 22, 2007 scholarship. His wife is a schoolteacher in Luanda. by acknowledging the success of the Stena- “There is always something new to learn at sea,” he says. Length overall 274m Sonangol Pool. “It is a perfect marriage,” he join me in Length between perpendiculars 264m “Since graduating, I have served in all the Sonangol ships.” said. “It has performed above the market aver- Breadth, moulded 48m Pereira joined Namibe in good time to be involved in the final saluting these age, profiting from all opportunities that the Depth, moulded 23.7m stages of construction and classification. young men. They market can offer, from the Atlantic to the Designed draft, moulded 16m “I found the participation in the sea trials really interesting,” Pacific and Indian Oceans.” Scantling draft, moulded 17m he says. “I’m especially interested in navigation and cargo man- are our truly He went on to draw attention to the young Deadweight tonnes 158,425 agement, and on this new vessel there are a lot of new skills and Service speed 15.5 knots Angolans who form a large part of the team expertise to acquire.” Main engine Man-B&W precious resource” responsible for operating the Namibe under Second engineer Francisco Miranda from Luanda was a Captain Deepak Nigam, explaining that they 6S70MC teacher of electrical drawing when he won his Sonangol scholar- were part of swelling band of graduates pro- Ship’s complement 26 Baptista Sumbe, ship, going on to become the first engineer to gradate in the duced by Sonangol’s ‘shipping academy.’ Executive Chairman, Classification,American Bureau of Shipping: programme. To date, the scholarship scheme has pro- Frederico Pereira and Second engineer Francisco Miranda +A1(E), Oil Carrier ESP, SH, SHCM, RES, “Going to sea has brought a completely new life for me,” he Sonangol USA Company duced some 23 graduates – 14 of them +AMS, +ACCM, ES, UWILD, VEC-L FL(30) says. “I love the travelling and I have served in all vessels except engineers and nine deck officers. At any one the Sonangol Luanda. I’m really enjoying the challenges of this time there are about 60 cadets in training at M/T Sonangol Namibe is the fifth Suezmax new ship.” colleges in Scotland and India, and on tanker to join the Sonangol Shipping fleet, Shipmates Sonangol vessels. technically managed by Wallem Ship The other Angolan officers are third engineer Edmur Costa, “The scheme is working well,” agrees Management and part of the Stena- The 27 crew who sailed in the m/t Sonangol Namibe from second officer Alfredo Massango and fourth engineer Euler Richard Speight, assistant principal head of Sonangol Suezmax Pool. Okpo to Singapore and Mina Al Falal, Oman, on March 22 under Miguel. The cadets include engine cadet António Paim and deck ON COURSE: maritime studies at the Glasgow College of Her four Sonangol sister ships are (by age): the command of Captain Deepak Nigam included five Angolan cadets Orlando Vandik and António Pita. m/t Sonangol Namibe undergoes Nautical Studies where the students spend one Sonangol Girassol 158,706dwt, Sonangol officers and three cadets from the Sonangol training scheme. The remaining officer complement is made up of chief engi- her trials in the South China Sea Luanda 159,178dwt, Sonangol Kizomba year of their two-year course. “We are now Second officer Frederico Pereira, 27, who was born in Uíge neer Paramjit Singh, chief officer R. Singh, electrical engineer A. 159,168dwt and Sonangol Kassanje anticipating that the first of our Angolan grad- province, started his college education studying economics along- Kumar, second engineer Rajesh Shah and third officer Hoshang VIEW FROM THE BRIDGE: 158,706dwt side his elder brother, before winning a Sonangol sea training Wadia, all from India. Sonangol Namibe prepares to uates will receive his master’s certificate within depart from the DSME yard, five years.” Total fleet 794,183dwt Okpo, South Korea So Sonangol’s shipping academy, which is

12 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 13 DEVELOPMENT

Angolanisation and local content in-win are buzz words long familiar to Angola’s oil sector wopportunity – and another successful Sonangol-led

Most oil majors operating offshore the oil industry. initiative shows Angola have become accustomed to pay- CAE-Apoio Empresarial is the brain- one way of ing high prices for goods and services – but child of Sonangol’s Projecto de making it happen Mthe old adage that paying more gets you Desenvolvimento da Participacao Nacional better quality may not be as true today as – Project for the Development of National it once was. Participation [Universo 6]. PDNP’s mission During the civil war years, exploration is to ensure that more private Angolan companies had little choice but to import businesses can become involved in the nearly everything as the private sector had country’s lucrative oil sector. It also tries to almost ground to a halt and the high-tech increase links between foreign and local demands of the industry meant that cut- firms working in the industry and provides ting corners could never be an option. management and business training to “The oil business is one of the most Angolan entrepreneurs. complex markets – deepwater oil drilling is Mr Benson is convinced that by using not an ordinary service industry,” says Lars more local enterprises rather than relying Benson, executive director of CAE-Apoio on imports, the oil companies can cut Empresarial, a Luanda-based business costs without compromising demand for centre which helps to match small and quality. “It’s true you can’t go out and buy a medium-sized Angolan companies with jumpsuit in Luanda tomorrow. But there is contracts to provide goods and services to no need to go to Korea to source it – you the oil industry. “The problem facing oper- can get it made here,” he says. ators is the high costs of doing business as “Local businesses might not have the well as the quality of goods and services smartest signs on the outside, but they can they receive in an industry where mistakes provide quality goods and services. It’s not can cost millions of dollars per minute,” that you can’t get quality in Angola, you says the senior US business expert with just may not know where to find it. That’s considerable experience of Angola. why we are here to help.” In five years of peace, the Angolan In addition to Sonangol, CAE-Apoio business environment has flourished, with Empresarial is sponsored by BP, Chevron, more local entrepreneurs trying to get onto Esso and Total, and managed by an the lucrative oil industry ladder than ever American NGO. It has a database of more before. This has enabled a better selection than 300 local companies, has carried out of goods and services to be available local- due diligence checks on a further 50 and ly, from the most basic to the highly more are coming onto its books every day. specialised – especially those tailored to Mr Benson believes that the potential ANTHONY FORONDA

14 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 15 “The problem for Angolan companies to supply the oil Both Angolan and foreign business con- local companies to win these contracts.” Angolan companies keen to get into the indus- industry is enormous. “Some of the oil majors sultants work from CAE-Apoio Empresarial’s Entrepreneurs often complain that the try and the big players saying they want to facing operators are spending hundreds of millions of dollars small offices in the Ingombotas district of legacies of war include heavy bureaucracy and work with local suppliers. But both sides, he on operating in Angola,” he says. “We want to Luanda, helping clients to prepare for the diffi- high costs to get businesses up and running. says, should be realistic about the scope for is the high costs make sure as much of that money as possible cult jump to the oil industry. Indeed, according to World Bank data, Angola their collaboration. stays here.” The centre offers training about twice a ranks 156th out of 175 countries in terms of “All oil companies will say they want to of doing business The business centre wants to maximise the month on most business subjects including ease of doing business and it is not always work with Angolan companies, but in reality it as well as the benefit to the oil companies and the more quality management, bidding for and manag- easy to survive in this tough environment, is often difficult for them to go out and find local companies become involved in the ing contracts, marketing and financial especially for small Angolan companies strug- local suppliers,” he says. “I tell Angolan com- quality of goods industry, the more jobs will be created for management. It also provides information on gling to juggle slender resources. panies to be careful in what they wish for Angolans. This process will also help to pro- upcoming contracts in the oil industry and Despite the challenges, Mr Benson says the because having a contract with an oil compa- and services they mote a better knowledge of the oil sector helps to polish up local companies’ bids so that range, availability and quality of goods and ny can be more difficult than they imagine.” within the country, thereby creating an econo- they can compete against foreign suppliers. services provided by local companies have However, Mr Benson has no doubt that the receive in an my that is more self-sufficient and less reliant In the last few years, Angola has undergone generally increased. However, the specifics of more local companies can secure a foothold in industry where on foreign know-how. a massive economic upswing, essentially due the oil industry mean that the barriers to entry the oil industry, the better it will be for The aim is to use the oil and gas industry to increasing oil production and high crude remain high. Angola’s long-term development. mistakes can cost as a springboard to promote growth across the prices. Foreign entrepreneurs have been trying “The potential for Angolan companies to “People always talk about the curse of oil. country, which can contribute to a more sus- to get in on the action, but the government provide the quality services required is a chal- But one of the benefits of this industry is that millions of tainable type of development and also help and Sonangol are on a drive to ensure that lenge because offshore drilling is such a its supply chains are very advanced and there other areas of the economy to flourish. more Angolan companies are included in the high-tech industry. And oil companies gener- will be a technological transfer which will ben- dollars per In the past, the lack of openness on the oil industry food chain. ally only work with companies they already efit not only oil but other sectors, from minute.” part of foreign oil companies and the high “Beyond being under pressure from the know. We introduce them to new companies.” agriculture to mining,” he says. costs of doing business in the industry have government to Angolanise, most of the majors Despite the evident difficulties of working “As more companies win contracts, there made things difficult for small and medium- recognise that this is good business practice,” for the oil industry, CAE-Apoio Empresarial are going to be more jobs created for Lars Benson, sized Angolan companies. It has sometimes says Mr Benson. “We’re helping the oil indus- has already helped 22 Angolan businesses to Angolans. This is a win-win situation for the Executive Director, discouraged them from competing for entry try to find new potential producers of goods or secure contracts worth around $2 million, pro- private sector in Angola, for the oil industry as CAE-Apoio Empresarial into the market. services in Angola and our interest is to assist viding the sector with a range of products a whole and for the oil operators.” from pumps, overalls and stationery to clean- With the training offered, Angolans will be ing, technical maintenance and catering given a better chance to compete with foreign services. companies. This process will strengthen local Mr Benson describes the relationship companies and help to make sure that more of Maintaining Growth between the two sides as “push and pull”, with the country’s wealth stays in Angola. ❖

An enterprising Angolan company that provides maintenance services for homes, including those owned or managed by oil companies, has already succeeded in winning a contract with BP Building a Future worth $1 million a year. Andre Ngeya, who is business development manager of Grupo Comercio e Industria Limitado The number of cranes on the Luanda skyline is a sign of the unprecedented construction boom in (Coceeme), says: “Our existing contract with BP is mainly for housing maintenance. We are now the capital. Small Angolan companies such as DSM Comercio e Industria Limitado, whose core busi- negotiating a second contract with them and we are also in talks with Total and Sonangol to pro- ness is building homes, clinics, schools and low-income housing as well as providing water filtration vide them with services. systems, are growing continuously to keep pace with the demands of the market. DSM, established “The oil companies can offer us a secure market and guarantees that we will be paid, which is in 2005, has been on CAE-Apoio Empresarial’s books since late 2006. obviously important for us. But working for them isn’t easy. Their standards are such that we have “We know we have a good product,” says administrator Cilas Cardoso. “Our construction system to present ourselves with a certain image of quality. is American – in most cases we use wood panels and steel pillars which allow us to build more quick- “They watch our evolution closely in terms of quality and management to make sure we are ly than companies using European cement-based systems. We manage to cut the costs to the client, moving in the right direction, and they also organise meetings and training sessions to help us, so primarily because we save a lot of time. in this way we are also winners. We became involved with CAE-Apoio Empresarial through BP and “We have a mix of clients including governments, companies and individuals. But one untapped we have already had several meetings, which have definitely helped us to develop our business market is the oil industry where there is a lot of work to be done, and at the same time we can learn and management structure. a lot from them too. The oil companies here have very strict rules and want to make sure that the “There are rules and attitudes that are now starting to penetrate our local market: things companies they give business to are up to international standards. relating to security, quality and respect for the environment that didn’t exist before. Taking these “We’re a small construction company so we’re still going through the process of ensuring that on board has helped our company to develop and gives us a better image when we go to negoti- things like health and safety and quality control are up to scratch. This includes everything from mak- ate contracts with the oil companies. ing sure our books are in order to putting up handrails on all the staircases. “We have done relatively well, and from our contract with BP alone we manage to make up “We see these kinds of requirements as an opportunity to get the company 100 per cent stream- to around one million dollars annually. But it wasn’t easy for us to get to this point because the lined, rather than as a barrier to entry. A business like ours will never be a candidate to work with oil laws in Angola are not always well adapted to the private sector.

16 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 17 PRODUCTION

On the eve of first oil from the Greater Plutonio Field, Block n-site 18, Universo meets Mary Shafer-Malicki, newly-appointed leader of the BP n time Angola Business Unit “I love animals, and when I was ‘‘Ivery young I decided I was O going to be a veterinary doctor,” says the newly-appointed leader of BP’s Angola Business Unit in her office overlooking Luanda’s business district. “But what actually happened was that my father who was in the oil business arranged for me to work as a summer casual at Amoco. “I went back the second summer, and then it was time for university. The medical thing just flew away.” After graduating as a chemical engi- neer, Mary Shafer-Malicki, who grew up in Oklahoma, joined the company where she had first become hooked on oil. After stints in North America, Holland, Scotland and Vietnam she now finds herself in Angola where one of BP’s newest and biggest projects, Greater Plutonio is about to flow first oil. The company has had a presence offshore Angola since the mid 1990s and is a non- operating partner in the development areas of Block 15 (26.67 per cent) and Block 17 (16.67 per cent) as well as Angola LNG (13.64 per cent). But dwarfing these two involve- ments is its operatorship of the development areas blocks 18 and 31. (see panel)

PMP GLOBAL SUMMER 2007 19 tion and approval in early 2004, BP and What are the major development mile- ments in their infrastructure. Already a lot A sub-protocol was signed with the What are the positives in working with a our partners have seen the near-comple- stones for the Plutonio project over the of work is being done here which is satis- Faculty of Law to jointly develop an LLM company such as Sonangol? tion of BP’s largest subsea project. next few years? fying for us and it helps them to become programme in Oil & Gas to be imple- Shafer-Malicki: We need to under- The FPSO Greater Plutonio is as long Shafer-Malicki: In total there will be real players on the international scene. mented in Angola. The programme was stand each other’s needs and work toward as three football pitches, has storage for 43 wells drilled in the Greater Plutonio launched in April and there are currently the same things – it is about mutual 1.77 million barrels of oil, can handle development area: 20 producers and 23 One of the serious shortages in the off- 40 graduates attending the course. advantage. We know that this is what is peak production rates of up to gas and water injectors, so we have three shore industry is trained and skilled Having said this, we recongnise that the going to give us our local energy compa- 240,000bpd and can treat produced water more years of drilling ahead. We expect staff. How does BP Angola intend to gap in trained and qualified Angolans is a ny, and we want to develop people to at a rate of 300,000bpd. It can process up voidage replacement injection capacity to address this industry-wide problem? problem that confronts the whole have this mutual benefit for the country. to 380 million cubic feet of gas and inject be fully up and running in early 2008. The Shafer-Malicki: Mostly by searching upstream industry. It is about value and balancing local 450,000 barrels of treated injection water development area plateau will be in 2010 for talent everywhere, and growing some content and with getting efficiency in the every 24 hours. The 12 topsides modules to 2012, and we also envision a tieback to ourselves. We have held recruiting events BP has been involved in Angola for supply chain. Because we are all on the weigh 21,300 tonnes. the FPSO of the Césio Field. in Angola, the US, UK, Portugal, Brazil, almost 40 years. What does the company same side of the table it’s easier to work, In addition, we have seen the success- and South Africa – anywhere we think see as the main highlights – and the dif- but it needs healthy tension because we ful completion of eight wells so far, with What are the lessons that have been Angolans are studying. We’re looking for ficulties – of operating in the country? don’t always want the same things at the some employing horizontal extended- learned from developing the Plutonio every skill from support functions like Shafer-Malicki: For me, the value of same time. reach open-hole gravel packs. An project, and how are they being dissemi- accounting, IT, and HSE, to the more relationships has been one of the high- Sonangol is key to delivering a suc- important feature of the project has been nated within BP? technical disciplines such as subsurface lights. It can take time and a lot of effort, cessful project, as they are involved in the amount of work being undertaken Shafer-Malicki: The main lesson is capability and drilling. but when you are looking for the same decisions at every stage. They take very here in Angola, major steps forward in that planning cannot be overlooked – and thing – mutually beneficial seriously their role to manage the coun- this has to start well ahead of activity. We development of resources, try’s resources, and we have to respect “The main lesson is that planning cannot be overlooked sent teams across to Brazil months ahead people and the country – it is that. of the rig coming to Greater Plutonio, to well worth the effort. The dif- The seminal moment of “first oil” is – and this has to start well ahead of activity.” discuss safety issues with the BP and ficulties arise with balancing a always a time for celebration and espe- Transocean teams. We also had a week- huge amount of activity and cially exciting now, as it provides another In a year that has hardly been one of enhancing local capability. long co-ordination and safety session the pressure on the supply boost towards Angola’s immediate pro- the kindest for the oil major, it is clear These projects mainly consist of 45 between our operations and projects chain so that we can develop duction goal of two million bpd. It is also that for this groundbreaking project off- permanent guide bases built at Algoa in teams in preparation for the hook-up and economic projects that meet known to have been one of Lord Browne’s shore Angola, BP’s underlying focus on Luanda, the fabrication of six manifolds commissioning of the FPSO and subsea all the stakeholders’ needs. cherished ambitions for BP to be up there safety and quality has driven every deci- including insulation, piles, subsea struc- systems, so everyone was made clear of at the top. sion and action by the teams and tures, the offloading buoy and the riser their role and accountabilities. How important is offshore The continuing development on contractors involved in its inception and tower manufactured by Sonamet in Our FPSO technicians started their Angola to the BP group glob- Block 18, and the exploration success in construction in many parts of the world – Lobito, where Angoflex is also manufac- training five years ago, beginning with one ally – now and in the future? Block 18 and the massive potential of not least the FPSO Greater Plutonio’s epic turing the static injection umbilicals. year of English training at ESSA Shafer-Malicki: First off, Block 31 could see BP as the largest oper- 10,700 nautical mile journey across three [Sonangol’s safety and technical training think about what Lord ator in Angola by 2012 – and thus, oceans. Were there any unanticipated events centre], two years of accredited training at KIANDA CELEBRATION: the centuries-old blessing Browne said years ago about ironically, achieve that goal in this high of the waters to bring good catches “The first week out of Korea it didn’t along the way? How were these tackled, Sapref refinery in South Africa or the BP production strategy: BP wants to be in profile African oil province. get very far, thanks to a typhoon in the and what significant data did they pro- chemical plant at Hull, UK, before the next the biggest hydrocarbons basins in the “I think we’ll just pip Esso to the South China Sea,” recalls Shafer-Malicki. duce for the future? 24 months spent somewhere in BP: on a We are also offering scholarships here world. Angola hosts one of the world’s post,” says Mary Shafer-Malicki with a “But the rest of the trip via Singapore and Shafer-Malicki: One key learning platform in the North Sea, BP Shipping or and abroad to increase the talent pool. great hydrocarbon basins, and BP has smile. “But you’ll have to look at their the Sunda Straits – no pirates! – and the curve was the difficulty in starting a in the Gulf of Mexico. Finally, the qualified BP and Agostinho Neto University (UAN) made a commitment that we are going to predictions and our predictions – it will Indian Ocean was without incident. major project construction at new sites, technicians went to Korea to get hands-on have signed a Protocol of Co-operation, be part of its development. At the be very close between us.” ❖ “I followed progress every day on the and the thing that strikes me is how much experience, so that they were gaining con- aimed at improving the technical stan- planned peak of our development, Internet, and when our FPSO departed planning and quality assurance had to go fidence of working with the FPSO well in dards and the numbers of locally trained Angola could be contributing almost 10 South Korea on November 25, simultane- in, so we had to adjust and make sure we advance of it arriving on site. engineering and geosciences graduates. per cent of BP’s total global production. Partners ously we arranged a traditional Kianda got enough resources to maintain the This involves bursaries and scholar- So that’s a big piece of business. Block 18 % celebration on the Ilha here in Luanda. standards we have for every site. How is BP developing its local content ships for the Faculty of Sciences and But perhaps it is more than that. We BP Exploration Angola (operator) 50 It’s a centuries-old blessing of the waters I put our success down to integrated contribution? Engineering students, support in curricu- know what we are building here and we Sonangol Sinopec International 50 to bring good catches for the season.” teams and maintaining strong partner- Shafer-Malicki: In addition to the lum development, text books, equipment want to be important to Angola, just as Block 31 % ships with suppliers. A good example is investment already mentioned in and facilities. For example, BP has recent- Angola is important to BP. We want BP BP Exploration Angola (operator) 26.67 So, as the 55,000dwt vessel was being how we have managed to achieve a zero Sonamet and Angoflex yards, we are also ly made a substantial donation of Angola to be a genuine Angolan energy Sonangol P&P 20 commissioned at its Block 18 location, skin factor [the measure of the quality of investing locally with other fabrication engineering textbooks to UAN – in the company, and we want to tap into the tal- Esso Exploration Angola 25 what have been the major engineering a well-bore] for all our Block 18 produc- and manufacturing companies such as Portuguese language. It’s our way to say: ents of this country for them to be Statoil ASA 13.33 successes thus far? tion wells, against an average of 3 to 5 for Algoa [local partner for FMC], so that they “We both want the same thing: a quality available freely throughout the company Marathon 10 Total E&P Angola 5 Shafer-Malicki: Since project sanc- the wells on other blocks. are able to make more permanent invest- engineering programme. worldwide.

20 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 21 INVESTMENT CURTIS PARKER

Having joined the influential Organisation hopes to start exploring this year. During a exploration in the Southern Kwanza Basin. of Oil Producers and Exporters (Opec) in 2006, visit to Angola in early 2007, company presi- However, entry into these large blocks, which and taken a leading role in the Gulf of Guinea dent Sergei Vybornov said: “It’s a petroleum are likely to yield further high impact Commission (GGC), the regional co-operation project for oil exploration. It’s very promising prospects, is part of a long-term commitment Hbody, Angola is feeling more confident about in terms of the quality of the deposits. We’ll by Tullow to building a business in Angola”. its place as a hydrocarbons superpower and is make an initial investment of around $50 mil- In 2006, Prodoil took a 20 per cent working attracting small, nimble oil companies as well lion for exploration. If we need to, we will interest in Block 1 offshore Angola operated by as the supermajors. invest more. It’s hard to know exactly how Tullow. The company has also obtained con- Sonangol chairman Manuel Vicente says much it will cost at this stage.” cessions and prospecting licences to explore that Angola is gaining substantial oil invest- Alrosa says the deal will involve explo- for and develop minerals such as gold, zinc ment in areas including environmental ration onshore in the areas of South Kwanza, and lead in the country. protection, infrastructure construction and North Kwanza, Etosha and Ojiba, and offshore maintenance services. blocks 12 and 13 – while computer services “Opportunities for national suppliers and company Angola Consulting Resources (ACR) As the supermajors and their partners up their game, providers of services exist and the concession- is gaining a foothold in domestic production their all-important junior colleagues will also play an ary, Sonangol, will continue promoting the through taking non-operating stakes, for integration of these initiatives within the oil example in Block 4. increasingly significant role in crossing this threshold industry,” he says. When in late 2006 Sonangol awarded A typical small oil company with interests French-based engineering company Technip a A joint venture application has been filed in Angola is Falcon Oil with offices in Luanda contract worth $70 million for the Block 4 by CityView, Quest Energy Middle East and and London. A private company, Falcon was Gimboa field development, its partners were local firms Energy Africa, a subsidiary of Petro set up in 1997 with the aim of bringing new named as Norway’s Norsk Hydro, ACR and African Energy plc, and Nexoil to develop two technology to Angola to search for and to Somoil (Sociedade Petrolefira Angolana). onshore oilfields in the Kwanza Basin. produce oil. Australia’s Roc Oil spent $34m on explo- Prodoil is an Angolan corporation run by In mid 2006, Brazil’s state-owned energy ration onshore Angola in 2006, making it one Angolan nationals experienced in the oil and company Petrobras was named as head of a of the country’s leading juniors. Two prospects gas, mining and engineering sectors. The com- consortium to explore deep-water Block 18 off have been identified for drilling this year – pany is working with Amec, the global Angola, paying what was a record $1.1 billion Massambala and Caju – and another three engineering group, and is also developing signature bonus. have so far been high graded as possible can- hotels within Luanda owned by a shareholder Falcon took a 5 per cent stake in the con- didates for drilling during 2007. – a cross industry development that is typical sortium alongside Petrobras with a 30 per cent Roc is hoping for oil production before too for companies seeking a foothold in the operating interest, China’s Sinopec (40 per long, which the company hopes will be “game potentially lucrative oil and gas sector. cent), Sonangol (20 per cent) and Gema Group changing” for its future. CityView, another Another company testing the exploration (5 per cent). Australian explorer, is also dipping its toe into environment in Angola is Africa-focused jun- International oil companies working Angolan waters and is working with Angolan ior Afren, based in the UK, which has agreed around the world have identified Angola as junior Nexoil for its proposed offshore oil con- to buy Gulf Energy Resources’ 5 per cent stake having huge potential in the long term, and are cessions in the country’s Kwanza basin. in Angola’s inshore Cabinda Block B. At least developing local operations in a slow, but sus- At the same time, Tullow Oil, one of 32 exploration wells have been spudded in tainable way. Norway and Angola have enjoyed Europe’s largest oil independents, has long past exploratory programmes, but the big find good relations for many years, co-operating in been active in Angola resulting in the compa- has yet to be made. small is many sectors from humanitarian aid to using ny taking a 50 per cent operating interest in The licence covers more than 112 hectares innovation oil and gas technologies. offshore Block 1/06 – a 3,800sq km oil explo- and is operated by Devon Energy which owns Thus, the corporate merging of Norway’s ration concession in the Lower Congo Basin, a 30 per cent stake in the exploration licence, two largest oil groups Statoil and Norsk Hydro offshore Angola. The block contains three together with Repsol YPF (25 per cent), earlier this year will have a positive impact on undeveloped oil fields, Pitangueira, Bananeira Sonangol (20 per cent) and Petrogal (20 per exploration plans within Angola, which both and Sapesapeiro, which will be evaluated by cent). The field lies close to the M’Boundi To help small and medium-sized companies have earlier stated is a core area for an exploration-drilling programme in later onshore field in the Congo–Brazzaville, the Angolan companies build their eautiful their international development plans. part of 2007. largest onshore field in the region. capacity and get onto the ladder, b The precise effect of the merger will take The company faced some disappointment As the supermajors and their partners up CAE–Apoio Empresarial, a busi- Angola’s exploration and production boom is set time to affect operations in Angola, but the two with its 2005/6 exploration programme in off- their game towards achieving the magic two ness centre sponsored by to continue as the oil majors are joined by a companies are already working together in shore Block 10, but is feels the country offers million bpd target, their all-important junior Sonangol, has been established in Total-operated Block 17 which contains the great opportunity to an entrepreneurial outfit colleagues will also play an increasingly signif- Luanda offering local companies growing band of local and international giant Dalia and Girassol fields. such as Tullow. Its Chief executive Aidan icant role in crossing this threshold, especially training in quality, bidding, and An intriguing new entrant into Angola is Heavey says: “Recent exploration wells on in developing the enigmatic onshore conces- securing and managing contracts companies defined by their entrepreneurial spirit Russia’s diamond monopoly Alrosa, which Blocks 10 demonstrate the high-risk nature of sions which are now attracting attention. ❖ in the oil sector (see page 15).

22 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 23 FIELD SERVICES

Vetco Gray, a part of GE Oil & Gas, can fairly describe

PMP GLOBAL itself as an Old Africa Hand having been in business in Angola since the 1960s. But though the company had set up a facility at Malongo to service its Cabinda Gulf Oil Company (Cabgoc) contracts, it did not finally Vestablish itself in Luanda until 1998 – moving to its present location within the Sonils Oil Service Centre in West 2004. Since that time, the company has focused attention on broadening its client base throughout southern Africa, offering local support and services to meet the demands of its customers in this part of the continent. “For Vetco Gray to be successful in Angola and other remote areas of the region, it is vitally important that we are positioned to provide services and people truly Africa in support of our customers’ needs,” says Ross MacLachlan, West Africa country manager. Currently, the company supports its oil industry customers wherever they are operating, mainly in such locations as Côte d’ Ivoire, Benin, Nigeria, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Congo, the DRC, Namibia, South Africa, Mozambique and Kenya – and the display in its Luanda headquarters showing its client locations Hub has more than a passing resemblance to an airline As the principal support route map. for its west and southern Vetco Gray Angola is a subsidiary of Vetco Gray UK for its west and southern Ltd based in Aberdeen, which since February 23, 2007 African operations, Vetco has been part of GE’s oil and gas business. The local Gray’s Luanda base is staff is made up of both expatriate and Angolan nation- centrally located to als. Typically, the scope of work the firm takes on at centrally located to Sonils, Malongo and Lobito includes manifold fabrica- deliver rapid response to tion and assembly, capital drilling equipment repair its sub-Saharan clients and recertification, well jumper final fabrication and testing, steel tube flying lead final fabrication and test- ing, SRT, SIT and repair of SSPE Christmas trees, storage, preservation and control system support. The company is also a leading supplier of subsea wellheads and tubulars for the exploration/appraisal market in Angola. Another important aspect of its oper- ations is the training and qualification of local employees. So far, the company has been responsible for the execution and completion of EPC subsea production system contracts, the supply of drilling products for both subsea and platform applications for projects such as Chevron’s Kuito & Benguela-Belize-Lobito- Tombuco complex and Esso Angola’s Kizomba A and B projects. Vetco Gray was also the main contractor for the $600 million Kizomba A EPIC surface wellhead plat- form for Kizomba A, commissioned in December 2003. When the Kizomba B start-up operation com- menced in March 2005, Vetco Gray was again engaged to support all wellhead and surface trees, drilling and production risers and tensioner systems from the Luanda base.

24 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 25 PMP GLOBAL

“This award is a further demonstration of and in times when industry professionals al secondment, QHSE training, research and Vetco Gray’s reputation as a leader in subsea are becoming ever harder to come by this development experience and an onshore or production systems,” said David Lamont, then means a concerted programme to find and offshore assignment. The programme now president of Vetco Gray Eastern Region and train local staff – and consequently Vetco Gray caters for four commercial graduates, two subsea production systems. “We look forward is committed to the development of its supply chain and two working in project to delivering this world-class project on time Angolan capability. management. and on budget.” Indeed, the Vetco Gray philosophy is to In addition, Vetco has a four-year graduate Barely three years after taking up residence increase the competencies of all employees training programme to take engineers to char- at Sonils, the rapid expansion of Angola’s off- whatever their speciality. It sees the key to suc- tered status and an abridged craft apprentice shore programmes has outgrown Vetco Gray’s cess of its plans in Angola as the development programme designed to meet the company’s 13,500sq.m facility. To cope with its success of a skilled and competent local workforce that immediate needs for which in April this year and ongoing commitments the company has can grow the business, and has put in hand a Vetco Gray selected ten Angolans from the embarked on a $4.2 million investment plan to number of programmes to this end. Institute of Petroleum for this scheme. Good Taste! increase and upgrade the facility. Central to Primarily, the international service According to Mr MacLachlan, Vetco Gray’s An important aspect of the scheme is the extension of the existing provider is committed to the development of presence in Angola has had a positive influ- Vetco’s training for its Angolan 900sq.m workshop by a further 600sq.m, as its Angolan capability to provide complete ence and has grown rapidly over the last two staff is its programme of out-of- well as 240sq.m additional inside storage and a country-based support during the installation years, with more than 112 nationals working in country courses. In December clean room for critical storage and repairs – and life of field-based projects. It has recently management, supervisory, administrative, off- 2006, for the second year a backed by the creation of 475sq.m of adminis- appointed a training and development manag- shore and workshop trative areas. er to put together competency-based training activities. “This expansion will enable Vetco to programmes and is working with the Angolan “Our strategy is to undertake the assembly and testing of subsea government to ensure that its efforts in this expand local con- trees and to broaden the basis of our services respect meet Angolanisation expectations. tent,” he says. “Vetco to the whole West African region,” says Ross As a result, there is a four/five year gradu- Gray has a world- MacLachlan. “We want to offer even greater ate programme, primarily designed to develop wide reputation built commitment to Angola, and being in a posi- engineer competencies to chartered status up over the years by tion to take on this work will enable us to with the Institute of Mechanical Engineers employees who substantially increase our local workforce.” which comprises an accredited two-year mon- believe in the com- The company recognises that the key to itored professional development scheme, with pany and who are offering a continuing high standard of service a further two/three years assigned to specific committed to work to customers is the quality of its workforce, projects and interspersed with an internation- for its future.” ❖

Since the opening of its Luanda facility, group of seven apprentices from “We look Vetco Gray has carried out specialist aftermar- Luanda joined 19 Scottish first- forward to ket services including repair, inspection, year apprentices at the Angus fabrication and refurbishment in support of Training Group in Arboath, delivering this Cabgoc Kuito, Esso’s Kizomba installations and Scotland. other major operators, as well as for the The contrast between a world-class drilling contractors Ocean Rig and Transocean. north-of-the-border winter and In May 2006, the company was awarded a the Angolan summer from project on time major systems contract for Esso Angola’s which the seven had travelled and on budget.” Kizomba C project, to supply subsea systems could hardly have been greater. for the Mondo and Saxi-Batuque fields (17 and On arrival they were presented 19 wells respectively) in some 740m of water, with suitable winter clothing in David Lamont, under which the firm is responsible for the addition to an English- Eastern Region and EPC of Mondo, consisting of 17 subsea trees, Portuguese dictionary. subsea production systems five manifolds, one integrated workover con- As extra insulation against president, Vetco Gray trol system (IWOCS), one FPSO hydraulic the wind blowing from the power unit, one surface control system, 27 North Sea, the Angolans were subsea control systems and flowline connec- also invited to taste the Scottish tions. The Saxi-Batuque requirement includes national dish, haggis. “It gives a 19 trees, one IWOCS, one FPSO hydraulic whole new meaning to the term power unit, one surface and 31 subsea control local content,” quipped one of modules and manifolds. them ruefully.

26 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 27 CARLOS MOCO The concept of the seasons, of In Angola there is little discern- But ill fortune still lingers to

summer followed by winter, is in turn summer followed by winter, a pleasing or a harsh fact of life for those who live in non-equatorial regions. able change from one month to another: the sun rises and sets at the rains come almost the same hour, and the crops grow – and almost all year round the activities of sunny days are constant diversions to beguile. touch many lives as a result of recent though never far beneath the history, surface, especially in the young, is an eye for beauty and an unquenchable hope for the future.

T

INSIDE ANGOLA REGIONAL FOCUS EEtroubleddenden For a region of For most of its way, the old colonial road from such distracting Luanda to Uíge twists and dives tortuously through rainforest valley and open country – but beauty and in many places it now opens out to wide new met- easygoing lifestyle, Falled surfaces constructed by the unceasing now it is rebuilding efforts of Chinese labour gangs. Negotiating one of the tricky hairpin bends on its future Uíge has the mountain road, we come upon a bus saved by seen more than its a tree from a precipitous descent into the dense fair share of forest undergrowth. Fortunately the passengers were all rescued and have gone on their way by disruptive other means. But the driver, Afonso, had to stay influences with the vehicle and is camped by the roadside. “I’ve been here for 40 days now,” he says almost unbelievably. “My partner went back to Luanda for help, but there is no sign of him yet.” As is the custom, we leave him with some food and water. These contrasts typify the fate of this northern province in recent decades. The panoramas of rolling trees and grassland – a sea of green in the rainy season – belie the fact that Uíge suffered ter- ribly in the recent civil war, and more recently was the epicentre of the deadly Marburg virus out- break which still appears intermittently, though it is now under control. And yet in the years leading to Independence, when Angola was exporting 400,000 tonnes of Robusta coffee annually, Uíge was the heartland of its production, providing the ideal soil and cli- mate for this sought-after variety. Named Carmona by the Portuguese, the city of Uíge grew from a small market place in 1945 to become Angola’s major coffee centre in the 1950s. However, its prosperity was short-lived because of the fighting between the FLNA and the Portuguese forces in the run-up to Independence. SUMMER 2007 31 PMP GLOBAL With an area of hectares and a population of around 1.3 just under 6,000 million, Uíge’s primary agricultural prod- ucts include coffee, beans, cassava, grain, hectares and a peanuts, cotton and wood. The province is also comparatively rich in minerals, a population of wealth that it shares with DRC’s southern Shaba province – including silver, copper around 1.3 million, and cobalt though these have been little Uíge’s primary developed on the Angolan side of the bor- der. agricultural One resource that is being exploited is tropical hardwood such as mahogany and products include iroko, which is exported through the port of Luanda after a bone-shaking 250km drive to coffee, beans, the south. This is an industry which the cassava, grain, local authority is actively seeking to fund with incentives offered as part of central peanuts cotton government’s code for foreign investment. Passing through villages such as Puri and wood some 70km east of the capital, the single- storey houses surrounding the pretty village square bask in Sunday sunshine. A short avenue leads to one of the smallest church- es in Angola – little bigger than a normal living room. “It looks old, but in fact it was built by

Indeed, the province was one of the hard- the Portuguese in 1926,” says Senhor Viera, the Dark Secret est-hit parts of Angola, with large sections of municipal administrator. “The whole commu- the population displaced and its infra- nity was a strategic point under Unita control Nowhere in Uíge is far from structure trashed. The scars are still apparent for much of the time, and our main church its recent past. This apparently in the quantities of wrecked artillery and was destroyed.” harmless looking Russian tank, tanks littering the landscape. As one of So the tiny chapel, its font incongruously still standing by the roadside Angola’s northern provinces, Uíge provided decorated with seashells, was very much the where it was ambushed and dis- an easy route for the guerrilla bands of the centre of activity in this very religious region, abled more than ten years ago, FLNA, and latterly Unita from the nearby which is also a centre of the Toko sect – a spin- is the sort of artefact that in a haven of the Democratic Republic of off from the catholic religion which uniquely different setting would provide Congo (DRC). has blended with local African beliefs. On endless fun as a giant climbing However, as time goes by, the tranquillity Sundays, Toko families can easily be spotted frame for children to explore. of the country areas away from the major walking their way to church, dressed from But on closer inspection its habitations seems quietly to envelope the head to toe in smart white outfits that would interior reveals live rounds of signs of conflict, just as the tropical jungle do credit to a Paris catwalk. ammunition still in place within slowly smothers all other aspects of civilisa- With people beginning to filter back to the turret – probably considered tion. these country areas, organised agriculture is too dangerous to remove, even In fact, before Africa was parcelled out only slowly starting to return, and without by the looters who stripped it of among the European powers in 1884, much to do everyone turns to what they can almost everything else. Uíge was part of the Kongo kingdom contribute – or more importantly, teach. which encompassed not only northern So we are not surprised to find António, Angola, but what is now Congo- with his superbly fit body, taking a group of Brazzaville and the DRC, and friends through a vigorous judo session in a cross-border influences are often appar- derelict building. “This is good for me in two ent in the features and culture of ways,” he says with a ready smile. “Firstly it populations living close to the border. keeps me in trim and at the same time I can With an area of just under 6,000 share a useful skill with my friends.” SERGIO AFONSO

32 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 33 Nevertheless, moves are afoot to rehabili- growing operation. Team leader Dr Eon-Jung Scientists do not know where it comes from. It tate the local agricultural sector. Recently, the Lee explains that they have only just arrived can infect monkeys, but they are not consid- co-operative of Casseche in another part of the and are setting up the operation which is ered the natural hosts. province received $36,000 to develop its funded from Pyongyang. The virus spreads through contact with resources. Another community, Cunga “The land and climate here offers so much bodily fluids and incubates for between three Quixiba, was handed $39,000 and a third, opportunity,” he says. “We will start by produc- and nine days. Currently, there is no vaccine or Condo Benze, got $27,000 from the Africa 2007 ing enough to feed the surrounding treatment. Death usually occurs within nine micro-credit programme. communities, and by that time hopefully the days of the appearance of symptoms: fever, Formerly, this part of Uíge was a significant roads will have improved enough to look for vomiting, diarrhoea and blood loss. rice-growing area centred on the town of markets further afield.” But now, all this is largely in the past, and Sanza Ponbo, where a ruined rice mill stands Meantime, the small stream that runs there are encouraging green shoots indicating on the outskirts. through this breathtaking, wide-horizoned that perhaps the tide is turning for a region “The main problem with restarting the landscape makes a perfect bathing pool for a that has been tossed by so many turbulent industry is the bad quality of the roads around dozen youngsters whose thoughts are about as currents in its recent past. Cutting it here,” explains administrator Baptista Pinde. far as they could be from growing crops while As the birthplace of Angola’s ruling party, “Until money is spent to restore them, it will they splash and dive in the cool water. the MPLA, one clue could be the colourful A former coffee plantation just The brilliant sunshine flooding this bucolic banner that stretches across the municipal outside Songo has taken on a new scene blots from the memory the scourge that headquarters in Puri, which proclaims: life as the centre for a different swept the area just a few years ago, attracting Regista-te Aqui – Register to vote. Sooner kind of harvest: tropical hard- worldwide attention to Angola. rather than later it is expected that there will woods, mainly mahogany and iroko “The land and climate here offers so The Marburg haemorrhagic fever which be national elections in Angola. Candidates from the nearby rainforest. much opportunity. We will start by ravaged the province is a deadly disease and parties need votes, and voters demand Established just over a year ago caused by a virus from the Ebola family. benefits! by Jorge Gonçalves and his friend It is an invitation that brings hope, however Pedro Mendonça, it has now producing enough to feed the POSTCARDS FROM UIGE slight, that the people have power and that become a thriving business that (clockwise from bottom left): Young citizens of Uige city; surrounding communities, and by that Election preparations, Puri; abandoned rice factory, there is a possibility for things to get better – for employs a permanent staff of 15 – Sanza Ponbo; Municipal Headquarters, Uige City. opportunities as yet unperceived to appear. ❖ rising to 40 when times are busy. time hopefully the roads will have The hard work is locating a improved enough to look for markets suitable tree and then dragging it from the forest to turn into planks further afield.” at the mill. “This adds value to our work,” says Mr Gonçalves who was born in Angola. “But some- Dr Eon-Jung Lee, Rice Team leader times we have to ship the complete trunk to Luanda for export.” be impossible for us to export what we pro- The quality of the local wood duce.” is especially good but “it only Within the town limits, the wide two-lane takes me five minutes to cut down main street gives a clue to its former impor- a tree”, proudly proclaims António tance as the hub of a prosperous agricultural who is responsible for operating area. But not very far beyond the city limits, one of the rapier-long chain saws. the road leading out is so seriously eroded that This hard-working team deliv- only the most robust 4x4 can negotiate it. ers, on average, 100 cubic metres “Before the conflict, as well as crops like of wood every day by truck to the rice and cashews, there were herds of cattle as Luanda dockside. far as the eye could see, and we had a thriving This is the only proper industry dairy industry,” Mr Pinde recalls. “It is also said in Songo, but to show what can that the sweetest pineapples grew here, as well be achieved with a modicum of as staples like bananas, avocado and papaya.” enterprise, the money earned has However, not far from the town, as we already made an impact on the cross a sweeping chana (a wide saucer-like local community, which has in turn valley between low hills) we come upon a led to the opening of small shops newly-arrived North Korean co-operative team and a café. in the initial stages of establishing a viable rice PMP GLOBAL

34 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 35 TOURISM

here is no doubt that Angola has been resort of Mussulo and the stunning palm- “You could go to blessed with all the ingredients to be an tree beach of Barra de Dande, an hour’s the beaches of attractive tourist destination. It boasts drive north of Luanda. 1,600km of beautiful coastline, dramatic Yet flick through any holiday brochure Mussulo or Cabo desert plains and lush green tropical land- on African travel and Angola is still very Ledo, which are scapes, as well as a fascinating history and much conspicuous by its absence because culture. With its tropical forests rich in only a few establishments are up to the high beautiful and still rivers, waterfalls and exotic flora and fauna, standards that tourists have come to expect. favourites, but tand its vibrant towns and picturesque rural “It is well known that hotels outside villages, Angola is simply bursting with Luanda do not respond efficiently and qual- now there seems potential. ity-wise to the demands we face today,” says to be much more “When I first arrived here, there was a Elisabete Freire, the owner of Charme limited range of free-time activities,” says Tours, which has been offering airline, hotel opportunity to NGO worker Louisa Norman, relaxed and and car booking services as well as tours refreshed after a weekend trip to the lus- around the region to corporate and private travel further cious province of Kwanza Sul. “You could go clients since 1994. afield.” to the beaches of Mussulo or Cabo Ledo, But there are exceptions, such as the which are beautiful and still favourites, but Palacio Regina Hotel, a stylish four-star now there seems to be much more opportu- standard establishment that opened its Louisa Norman, nity to travel further afield.” doors a year ago in Malange city, and the NGO worker Paul Wesson, an animated, enthusiastic tree-star Luachimo Hotel in Saurimo, which Englishman, moved to Angola more than is to be refurbished at a cost of $10 million. two decades ago, fell in love with the coun- Apart from the lack of hotels, which try and has never looked back. A born boast a 97 per cent occupancy rate, restau- adventurer – Angola’s answer to the rants are frequently packed, particularly at renowned travel correspondent Michael weekends. It can often also be difficult to Palin – he co-founded the travel company get a flight, although things are improving EcoTur in 2003, with its enticing slogan as airlines increase schedules. Descobre Angola connosco (Discover Angola ANIP (Agencia Nacional para o with us). Investmento Privado) estimates that in 2007 “Angola appeals to pioneers in the the country will welcome around 1.2 mil- tourism industry,” he says. “It is so huge, lion tourists. It predicts that those bold there are so many contrasting sights and it enough to invest now, while the tourism is very difficult for such a sparse population (around 13 million) to damage the ecologi- industry is still in its fledgling stage, will cal side.” reap rewards in the future. EcoTur’s tours have burgeoned, and as Yet Ms Freire says there are still difficul- aradise in waiting two or three-day trips for expatriates con- ties to be resolved “At this point in time, tinue to rise in popularity, longer tours for getting a tourism visa to enter Angola is a Angola residents and visitors are beginning huge problem. On a daily basis we receive to grow too. emails from foreigners requesting a letter of British couple Colin and June Iley spent invitation which makes us responsible for 12 days in Angola visiting their daughter their stay and safe return home,” she and son-in-law in Luanda, but also travelled explains. “But how can I invite people I on short trips out of the capital. “What is don’t know?” fascinating about Angola is that you have so It will certainly be some time before many extremes. My wife and I have never Angola appears alongside Zambia and visited Africa before, so everything was Botswana in the travel journals. But if the interesting to us. Even the poverty and the public and private sectors pull together to hardships. rebuild the infrastructure and develop the PARADISES: “Yet on the other hand, you have some natural hospitable nature of the country’s (clockwise from bottom left): beaches and countryside that can only be people, without damaging Angola’s exotic Rio Longo, Kissama National described as paradise,” says Mrs Iley, who beauty, then in years to come it could be Park, Rio Longo, Huambo travelled with her husband to the island one of Africa’s hot new destinations. ❖ Province CARLOS MOCO

36 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 37 Eduardo Chingunji is bubbling with With a new enthusiasm about a sector he hopes could one day compete with oil and diamonds in international Eterms of its economic importance. Pointing airport and from the window of his spacious sixth-floor world-class Bright future office towards the Ilha peninsula, Mr Chingunji, Angola’s Minister of Tourism, hotels under explains why his country is so special. “I love Angola because it is so diverse. construction, But people won’t come here just because Angola’s tourism they want the sun. We have so much more to offer, so many beautiful things,” he says. minister sees a for “You have to put all these things together tourism time when the and create some kind of vision for now and the future which will attract people to country can be come and visit.” less dependent There is no doubt that Angola has been blessed with all the ingredients it needs to on oil be an attractive tourist destination, and with the years of conflict behind it, Angola’s future looks bright, with the tourism sector braced for continued growth as the country seeks to diversify its economy and create the basis for its sus- tainable development. But Mr Chingunji points out that it will be a while before Angola is able to draw in the significant numbers of regular holiday- makers it deserves. “At the moment, when we talk about tourists in Angola, they are mostly business visitors. We’re not yet at the point where we can really talk of tradi- tional tourists,” he says. “Angola does not have holiday resorts like the ones you nor- mally see in this part of the world, such as in South Africa and Namibia.” Mr Chingunji takes a first-things-first approach to the rebuilding of the sector five years after the end of the civil war. Peacetime has gone some way to address- ing the legacies of the conflict, but serious hurdles remain. He has been tourism minister since December 2004 and cites electricity, roads and drinking water as key areas needing attention. “The first thing that we have as a priority is to repair and rebuild the infra- structure so that we can start accommodating traditional tourists,” he says. “The health sector is really important too. No one would go to a place where they are likely to get seriously ill or could risk losing their life. Until we reach such a point, we are talking mostly of people who Eduardo Chingunji, Minister of Tourism JOSE SILVA PINTO

38 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 39 are coming to Angola to look at investment at 97 per cent throughout the year,” says Mr secret haven among surfers who are tired of opportunities.” Chingunji. “There is so much demand in joining the queues for the waves of Cape Town But even the challenges presented by the Luanda. People want to come, but a lot of or Hawaii. surge in business tourism are difficult to keep them don’t because they simply can’t get a For all the blueprints, plans and ideas, Mr up with. There is a serious lack of hotel rooms room to stay.” Chingunji knows that a budding tourism in the capital and an estimated 3,500 more are A raft of ambitious projects should see industry will require trained personnel and a needed just to meet current demand. Even more hotels make it onto the Luanda skyline solid base of services. In the last few months, smaller guest houses are booked up for over the next few years. These include a 36- short-term hotel and tourism courses have CAPITAL: months in advance. floor hotel on the Marginal and several chains been held across the country. Luanda offers its own “We don’t have a peak or off–peak season, offering a range of accommodation from the There are other hurdles too, with one of the unique welcome so the occupancy rate in most hotels averages more modest to lavish five-star hotels and most common complaints from foreigners apartment hotels for longer-term visitors. wanting to travel to Angola being the cumber- But plans do not stop at building rooms, some red tape involved in applying for a visa, nor do they stop at the borders of the capital. with real tourist visas not yet available. PMPGLOBAL Mr Chingunji is visibly excited as he The minister is well aware of these issues time for the event, Angola’s massive new inter- describes several projects that will cater for and says the government is trying to make it national airport should be ready with more Island in the Sun business visitors and holidaymakers alike. easier for bona fide holidaymakers to enter flights scheduled to be introduced from other They include a giant trans-border park taking Angola. corners of the globe, and a new fleet of aircraft “It’s like another world out in Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe “Some people say, ‘We are tourists, how is already serving the national airline. here, but so close to the city as well as Angola. There will also be several come we need to have a letter of invitation For Mr Chingunji, having a clear vision of where I work.” That is how new casinos, holiday resorts, bars and restau- from Angola?’ We say, right now it’s important the sector’s future is as important as building NGO executive Ingo Gertner rants as well as fishing and safari lodges across we know who is coming in and out because we the blocks of the industry one by one. describes the idyllic Zanga Resort the territory. are trying to get our act together and get back “Our ambition is to exploit the many on the island of Mussulo, about “Most tourists only know Luanda,” laments into normal society after the war,” he explains. attractions this country has to offer, so that we 20kms south of Luanda. Mr Chingunji, who spends a lot of his time “Obviously this will have to change. Eventually don’t have to be dependent on oil and dia- As one of the more exclusive travelling between the country’s 18 provinces. people will be able to come to Angola on a monds,” he says. “We are building up our hideaways on the island, Zanga “Once we have the necessary infrastructure set 30–day visa as a tourist.” industry, slowly but surely. In three to four is an imaginative example of the up around the country, people will find it a lot Alongside the government’s efforts to iron years, Angola should be considered not only a kind of vacation development easier to visit other places and I’m convinced out these difficulties, it is also focused on mak- tourist destination but a superpower in our for which the bays and lagoons they will start to recognise our country as a ing sure the country will be ready to host the region.” ❖ along Angola’s Atlantic coast are real tourist destination.” prestigious African Cup of Nations football well suited. Indeed, the interest has already begun. tournament in 2010. The race is on to ensure It is about an hour from the Four-wheel drive tourism is popular among there is plenty of room for the athletes, specta- international airport – including more adventurous holidaymakers. Angola and tors and others who will be coming from a 20-minute boat ride, skimming its plentiful waters have been luring fishing across the continent and the world. over the tranquil waters from enthusiasts for years – and the country is a As well as the hotels being constructed in the mainland. Roomy, well-built chalets set in the shade of palm trees and acacias can accommo- date family parties, groups or couples seeking seclusion from the stresses of urban life. A white sand beach, with the high-rise blocks of Luanda in the distance, offers the opportu- nity to indulge in windsurfing, fishing, scuba diving and other water sports or just the chance to relax. “We are happy to welcome families and friends to enjoy these facilities,” says the manag- er, Frederico,“but we are also equipped to cater for business conferences, weddings and other social occasions.” PHOTOS: JOSE SILVA PINTO

40 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 41 PHOTOGRAPHY Child’s Eye View

In the era of digital photography it is easy to forget that howev- er sophisticated the technology, it is the human sense of wonder and curiosity that creates an arresting image. The camera obscura perfected by the Chinese in the 11th cen- tury was the first mechanical means of reproducing a picture of an actual scene. It works on the principle of light passing through a tiny hole, which acts as a lens, to form an image on a surface behind it. IPictures taken by children from the Kandengues Unidos Orphanage and Mulemba Centre in Luanda demonstrated just how potent this simple technique still is in an age when taking photographs has been reduced to a foolproof, almost automatic, process. In the project sponsored by Total E&P Angola, 20 children were GOOD IMAGE: each given an old tin can with a pinhole in one side and a sheet of Artist Samual Killungila holds photographic paper placed on the inside, and were invited to take one of the “magic tins” at the Celemar Gallery, Luanda pictures of everyday life as they saw it in and around the capital. What they captured with their “magic tins” was presented in a special exhibition, Mulekunidos, at the Elinga Theatre, Luanda, in May 2006, and was so successful that a second project was launched later in the year, with the results shown at the Celemar Gallery on the Ilha. The striking and sometimes disturbing images strip away all the gloss and attitude that is inevitably imparted by older and more experienced photographers using top-line equipment. These pictures taken by the children wandering in the street, on the seashore and at play reduce the bewildering sights and experiences of the larger world around them to clean-cut impres- sions that only the fresh and innocent eye of a child can see: sometimes humorous, sometimes affectionate, sometimes afraid – but always sublime. After developing the photos, the kids will be different: out of this experience they will begin to achieve the feeling of being part of a family and gain a true sense of the community around them.

42 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 43 What they captured with their “magic tins” was presented in a special exhibition, Mulekunidos, at the Elinga Theatre, Luanda, in May 2006

The striking, and sometimes disturbing images strip away all the gloss and attitude that is inevitably imparted by older and more experienced photographers using top-line equipment SPORT

Since Icarus, it has been man’s dream to take ly like wings, and F skimming over the Atlantic surf of the Ilha a a growing number of young Luandans experience just bird that Most afternoons, Rogerio Bandeira takes a moment to stand at the window of his office and focus his attention on the palm trees on the street below. If Mthey are still, he gets back to his day’s work, but if they are swaying, he knows there is probably enough wind to go kitesurfing. That assessment is bitter sweet, as he still has to put in a few more hours at the office before he can pick up his kite and surfboard and head off to the beach to join his friends for an exhilarating ride. “Sometimes I want the wind so badly that I’m practically seeing a mirage,” says the 31-year-old, laughing as he sits back into the sand, his harness still around his waist and his kite flapping in the breeze. “I skip my lunch break at work so that I can get down here earlier and kitesurf in the after- noons.” It is a mid-week afternoon and Rogerio and five other kitesurfers are gathered on one of the beaches at the entrance to Luanda’s Ilha peninsula. Groups of children sit around and gaze into the sky, admir- ing the bright colours of the kites as they swoop in the wind up above. They “oooh” and “ahhh” as the surfers practise their perilous tricks which include jumps, twists and turns through the air. One of the children, the waist-high Adilson, who has become a kind of mascot to the kitesurfers, sometimes hitches a piggyback ride through the waves with one of the more experienced kiters. “I love it,” he exclaims breathlessly, having just made it back onto the beach after an exciting trip with one dedicated kitesurfer, Lukeny. “I can’t wait to get older so that I can try it out for myself,” he adds with a cheeky grin.

PHOTOS: JOSE SILVA PINTO SUMMER 2007 47 “There are few Like most of this band of Angolan who taught another and the sport quickly admit that the sport does have the odd kitesurfers, Rogerio – who has been kitesurfing caught on. drawback. places where you for about two years – became hooked from the However, there are no hire shops or formal “I’ve had lots of arguments with my girl- start. kiting schools in Angola, and buying new or friends because of kitesurfing,” says Ricardo. would find such an “From the first time I put a kite in the air, I even used equipment locally is almost impos- “On the weekends when there’s just the tiniest didn’t want to let go. It’s like a drug,” he says, sible. With the cost of the kit – a kite, harness bit of wind, I want to go and kite. They always unusual and varied beaming. “Before kitesurfing, I had never tried and board – reaching at least $2,000, there are think I am cheating on them when I’m actually menu, and the a sport that had to do with the sea. I had limits as to how many Angolans are likely to kitesurfing.” always liked basketball and football. But now I afford the sport. But Ruca and some of the For many Angolans, watching from the view is almost don’t want to do anything else”. other more experienced kiters such as Darcy beach is as close as they get to trying the Kitesurfing, also known as flysurfing or Ornelas Vieira Lopes, who is also in the cus- sport. But others, such as 37-year-old Pombal worth paying for kiteboarding, is not for the faint-hearted. toms clearance business, are setting up an Diogo Sebastiao, have found ways of getting Considered an extreme sport, and involving a association which they hope will help the involved. in itself.” power kite to pull the rider through the water sport to become more accessible. He helps Luanda’s brigade of surfers to on a small surfboard, it is physically challeng- “We want to create better conditions for pump up their kites, release them into the Foreign businessman, ing and can be dangerous. kitesurfing in Angola and help it to develop wind, catch them when they come off the Cais de Quatro restaurant It first arrived on the shores of Angola in and gain more popularity,” says Darcy as he waves and pack them away at the end of the around 2000 and is growing in popularity pumps up his bright red kite in preparation for day. For Pombal, who Luanda’s kitesurfers among both locals and expatriates. Ask any of a surfboard ride. consider to be part of their crew, this a job and Angola’s kitesurf enthusiasts who first brought “Kitesurfing has everything to do with a pleasure rolled into one. the sport here and all will refer to Ruca, the Angolans – it involves the sun, the sea and the “I come down here every day. My work is to Angolan expert. beach. And we’re privileged to have all this so help the kite-sailors. I’ve been helping them Getting an interview with Ruca (aka Raul close to where we live and work.” for three years. I consider them to be my fami- Hamilton) is not easy. He is a busy man, either Darcy’s passion for kiting is so great that he ly and they help me out with a bit of money,” hard at work drumming up business for his gave a miniature kite to each of his friends to he says, rolling up a kite as the sun sets over customs clearance company in the port, or kit- commemorate the birth of his son. They have the ocean. ing in his every spare moment. even named one of their favourite stretches on But Pombal hopes that he will also get the “I started off with a tiny kite. I was the only Mussulo Island, Kitesurf Beach. With such chance to try out a sport that has captivated person doing it here in Luanda, which is enthusiasm, it is hard to see how kiting will the hearts and minds of those he helps. maybe why it took me so long to learn. not, literally, take off in Angola. But Darcy “I would like to try it out one day, for Normally you have a teacher who can correct points out that the wind conditions in Luanda someone to buy a kite for me. But in the you if you make a mistake,” he says, drinking are not ideal. meantime, I like watching them, being with an ice-cold beer to quench his thirst at the “Before I started kitesurfing, I thought them and helping them,” he says. ❖ Ilha’s Jango Veleiro beach bar. Angola was very windy,” he says. “But we’re However, having already done a lot of actually not that wealthy here in terms of waterskiing, wakeboarding and snowboarding, wind. It is usually around 10 to 14 knots, and it Ruca quickly picked up the basics of kitesurf- can sometimes, but rarely, rise to 20 to 24 ing without formal lessons. With great knots.” fondness he recalls the first time he managed But with adequate winds, and in a country to get up onto his surfboard and go for a ride that can boast having summer nearly all year through the ocean. round, Luanda as a kiting destination is luring “It was an amazing sensation. When you some Angolans living abroad to come back manage to dominate the kite and then create a home. Ricardo Soares, 31, having left Angola symbiotic relationship between the air and the when he was 18 to live in Portugal, is now water, it’s impossible to forget. It’s a feeling you planning to return at the end of the year. will remember all your life,” he says. “This is nothing in comparison to places “At the beginning, we were all curious and such as Tarifa in Spain where you can see eager to learn. I used to get information from more than 200 kites in the air, but it’s definite- the Internet and download videos and com- ly growing in popularity here. mentaries that explained what you’re “I’ve been on holiday in Angola for the past PHOTOS: JOSE SILVA PINTO supposed do. But, of course, there is no few weeks now and I’m loving it. I come down replacement for lots of practice.” to the beach every day to kite. That’s not Ruca, whose daring tricks and confidence something I can do in Portugal. It’s going to be in the water today prove he deserves his title of great to come back for good,” he says. “expert”, taught one of his friends how to kite, However, even kitesurfing aficionados

48 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SUMMER 2007 49 LIFESTYLE

nity. Its intimate bar, where clients can enjoy with its dramatic oriental pagoda-style their aperitif and a selection of salty snacks, is entrance, has been luring fans of Asian cuisine the perfect beginning to a top-quality meal. for years, but competition is heating up. The Meanwhile, the outdoor Fortaleza, in the Abdeson, which opened its doors in late 2005, shadow of Luanda’s iconic fortress overlooking is more modern and spacious, and also offers the harbour, is famous for its steak and chips, the usual favourites of Peking duck and sweet with clients travelling from miles around to and sour prawns. enjoy succulent the beef fillet in a creamy “I love Chinese food and Chez Wou was pepper sauce. always one of my top choices for a good meal For yet another type of open-air dining out. But it is fantastic to have other choices,” experience, the established haunts of says one foreign businessman who has seen a out Coconuts and the Caribe situated on the rapid expansion of the restaurant market in beaches of the Ilha peninsula, continue to his decade-long stint in Luanda. draw customers. Particularly popular during He also cites Cais de Quatro, with its the summer months when the sea breeze acts panoramic views of the Luanda skyline, as a to as a natural air conditioner, they focus on fish firm favourite. Drink in hand, he notes the and seafood, freshly caught just a few feet clean lines of the decking and glass-topped (clockwise from bottom left) away in the Atlantic Ocean. tables, as well as the crisp white table linen Pimms; Pintos; Pimms, Coconuts’ Espetada de Peixe e Marisco, which fits well with the establishments’ Cais de Quatro unch (fish and seafood kebab) often prompts gasps trademark sails flapping at the entrance. Hardly a week The busy lunchtime rush has just come to United States, Britain and China, and other of delight when served at the table on a tower- “The food here is more fusion than Lan end at Pinto’s in downtown Luanda and the countries. Many people come here for meet- ing vertical spit. Down at the Caribe, with its from any one country. It serves a great goes by manager, Guilhermina Gonçalvez, can finally ings, and when they are inviting someone yellow parasols and occasional live music, the Thai prawn curry and a delicious beef without a new breathe a sigh of relief and take a seat. important, they want to be sure everything garlic prawn starter is hard to beat. dish with a chocolate sauce,” he says. restaurant TPintos is widely regarded as one of the goes well, particularly the service.” For a more homely atmosphere, Esplanada “There are few places where you opening its city’s finest restaurants, with a décor, menu The extensive menu is a big attraction and Palhota across the road serves delicious tradi- would find such an unusual and varied and service that would rate as first class in includes house specialities such as Valencia- tional Portuguese and Angolan dishes and is menu, and the view is almost worth pay- doors in Paris, Milan or New York. style paella and oven-baked cod stuffed with claimed by its owner to be the only place in ing for in itself,” he says, pointing to the Luanda, adding “We are among the three best restaurants finely-sliced smoked ham and shrimps. the country serving suckling pig. twinkling lights of the capital across the to the already in Luanda,” says Ms Gonçalvez. “We know our Beautifully presented and served with style by With its eager-to-please staff dressed in harbour. service is good and we provide a relaxing envi- immaculately attired waiters, a sumptuous green and white uniforms, and its fans cooling The rapid growth in the restaurant eclectic choice ronment for our customers. People like the dessert trolley and large cheese platter offer a customers under a straw roof, it is packed to industry is creating jobs and new skills of eating cosmopolitan feel here. They tell me the perfect conclusion to any meal. the brim on weekends and at most and demonstrates Angola’s ability to places available restaurant would not be out of place in any “This is definitely one of the best places to lunchtimes. respond to changing demands. A shin- part of the world, so we know we are doing a eat in Luanda – you have friendly and profes- “If you arrive late, we are often full,” says ing example of the country’s post-war to the capital’s good job.” sional staff and great food. What more can you Jose dos Santos Monteiro, who opened the recovery, it is also mouth-watering news discerning Pinto’s location, in the capital’s financial ask for?” says public relations executive restaurant in 2001 and has seen business rock- for the discerning palate. ❖ palate district, makes it handy for business lunches, Cristina Dantas after enjoying shrimp curry, et. “We are near the beach and much more particularly when trying to impress a client. another Pinto’s speciality. accessible than some of the other bars and The ground-floor bar and first-floor dining As Luanda’s reputation as a lively cosmo- restaurants on the smarter side of the Ilha that room have the air of a politan city grows, so too does the demand for charge twice as much as we do.” plush gentleman’s club, upmarket eating houses, prompting an As eating out increases in popularity, a with mahogany wood pan- increase in the choice of restaurants and the growing number of restaurants are now serv- elling, comfortable variety of food they serve. ing foreign and fusion foods. armchairs and characteris- The capital’s chic residents need equally Still on the Ilha, the São Jorge and the tic Portuguese tiling. The chic places to be wined and dined, with stylish Jango Veleira are both popular thanks to their clever layout gives each furnishings, impeccable service and, of course, Brazilian-style cuisine. Culturally close to table a feeling of privacy. topnotch food and drink at the head of the Brazil in a host of ways, Angolans adore the “I would estimate that wish list. traditional Picanha dish – a slow-cooked beef around 90 per cent of our “There are the favourites, such as Pimms, steak served with fried banana, black beans, clientele comes from the Coconuts, Caribe and Fortaleza, but there are greens and a crunchy topping. business community, also more and more new restaurants to choose In fact, Luanda offers no shortage of world

especially from the oil sec- from,” says Ms Dantas. food, with India, Vietnam and China in partic- PHOTOS: CARLOS MOCO tor,” Ms Gonçalvez says. Pimms, in the smart residential area of ular also making their mark on the capital’s “As well as Angolans, we Alvalade, is another establishment popular gastro scene. have customers from the with Luanda’s elite and the expatriate commu- Chez Wou on the threshold of the Ilha,

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