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Calina 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cen- Abv: 14% Price: $50 Mouthfeel, with Slightly Medicinal-Toned Flavors of 86 Tral Valley)

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Calina 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cen- Abv: 14% Price: $50 Mouthfeel, with Slightly Medicinal-Toned Flavors of 86 Tral Valley) BUYING GUIDE SEPTEMBER 2012 Evening light falls on the vineyards of Barbaresco, with the village of Neive on the hill in the distance. 2 PIEDMONT 60 WASHINGTON 26 BORDEAUX 67 NEW YORK 31 LOIRE 69 VIRGINIA 35 ISRAEL 70 OTHER U.S 37 GREECE 71 SPIRITS 39 CYPRUS 73 BEER 39 CHILE FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 44 CALIFORNIA BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM PHOTO © MICK ROCK WineMag.com | 1 PIEDMONT DECIPHERING 2009 BARBARESCO AND 2008 BAROLO n aerial view of the Langhe offers an exceptional perspective on within the patchwork of vineyards is the key to understanding 2009 Bar- this storied wine region. I discovered this first hand during my lat- baresco and 2008 Barolo. Producers use the phrase “leopard skin” to de- A est visit to Piedmont—the home of two of Italy’s most prestigious scribe both vintages, as two side-by-side sites can offer strikingly different red wines, Barbaresco and Barolo. interpretations. Within seconds of our helicopter’s stomach-sinking ascent from a soc- Among the 2009 Barbarescos, the wines from Neive display balanced cer field in Alba, we were flying high over a busy patchwork of vineyards acidity and fine tannins, while the wines from Barbaresco and Treiso show colored by the green shading of bud break. The pilot veered right over the pockets of overripe fruit and some grittiness on the close. The summer was blockish castle of Grinzane Cavour, followed by the hilltop towns of Cas- hot and dry, and only certain areas benefited from stored water left over tiglione Falletto, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba in quick from spring rains. Some of my favorite wines come from such producers as succession. A sudden push northeast brought us over Treiso, Neive and the Musso, Castello di Neive and Gaja. tower of Barbaresco. We had seen the Langhe’s most celebrated crus in less In 2008, downy mildew and destructive hail challenged Barolo vint- than 15 minutes of flying time. ners. Some of the most balanced wines originate from Castiglione Fallet- I came away from the excursion with a new appreciation of how small to and Monforte d’Alba, while the wines from Barolo and La Morra exhib- this region is. Within this tiny area of rolling hills, vintners craft hundreds, it wide variation. Producers Luciano Sandrone, Gianni Voerzio, Michele maybe thousands, of wines from the Nebbiolo grape, the region’s prima- Chiarlo, Elvio Cogno and Pio Cesare succeeded despite the conditions, all ry grape variety. crafting wines scoring 94 points or higher. In addition, the topographical variation is enormous. This variation —MONICA LARNER 2009 BARBARESCO a fresh, light and feminine touch that’s backed by firm Cantina del Pino 2009 Barbaresco. Can- tannin. Tellitalia Imports. —M.L. 91 tina del Pino makes some of the finest Barbares- Gaja 2009 Barbaresco. Gaja’s latest Bar- abv: 14% Price: $65 co available today. This shows a succulent quality, with 93 baresco shows deep aromatic layers of ripe fruit, aromas of smoked bacon, wild berries and forest under- leather, black licorice, dried herb and savory tobacco. It Pietro Rinaldi 2009 San Cristoforo (Bar- brush. Savory and sophisticated, this has loads of per- is extremely velvety and smooth, with firm tannins and a 92 baresco). This opens with a plush, dark ap- sonality. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. richly extracted fruit finish. Terlato Wines International. pearance and generous aromas of ripe fruit, tobacco, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Cellar Selection. —M.L. hazelnut and bitter chocolate. It delivers balance, de- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA termination and polished tannins. Terravino Wine Part- Cascina delle Rose 2009 Tre Stelle (Bar- ners. —M.L. 91 baresco). This opens with plump cherry fruit Musso 2009 Pora (Barbaresco). Pora Bar- abv: NA Price: $36 and some oak shadings. It has bold intensity with a mod- 93 baresco offers an incredibly elegant and fine ern flair and has the high acidity, fresh fruit and tight personality with beautiful accents of wild berry, dried Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2009 Sanadaive tannins needed for successful cellar aging. Polaner Se- ginger, cola, leather, spice and black licorice. The tan- 91 (Barbaresco). Here’s an elegant and fine Bar- lections. Cellar Selection. —M.L. nins are silky and very polished. Panebianco. —M.L. baresco with silky tannins and drying touches of talc abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $46 powder and exotic spice. An austere quality shows on the nose, with smoked bacon, tobacco and black cur- Cascina Luisin 2009 Sorì Paolin (Bar- Castello di Verduno 2009 Rabajà (Bar- rant aromas. It displays beautiful intensity as well. Novo 91 baresco). There’s a tiny touch of apple skin 92 baresco). Hailing from the celebrated Rabajà Imports. —M.L. volatility and fresh raspberry that give this wine enor- Cru, this offers plump fullness and beautiful aromatic abv: 13.5% Price: $28 mous lift and buoyancy. But there are also grounding intensity, with notes of black cherry, leather and a touch aromas of leather and old spice that render a sense of of chocolate powder. The tannins are solid and fine. Oli- Albino Rocca 2009 Duemilanove (Bar- intensity and sophistication. Zig Zagando. —M.L. ver McCrum Wines. —M.L. 91 baresco). This youthful Barbaresco opens abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $45 with soft layers of ripe cherry fruit and a plush, rich texture. There’s substance, firmness and a deeper color Cascina Morassino 2009 Morassino Ceretto 2009 Bricco Asili Bernardot (Bar- here that will give this wine a long aging future. A Marc 91 (Barbaresco). The 2009 vintage has been 92 baresco). From the celebrated Bernardot de Grazia selection. —M.L. kind to Cascina Morassino. This bright Barbaresco Cru, this dark and austere Barbaresco opens with el- abv: NA Price: $45 opens with plump aromas of ripe fruit and cherry, show- egant tones of dried fruit, exotic spice, toasted hazel- ing both dense extraction and impressive aromatic in- nut and tar. Thanks to its natural structure and acidity, Ca’Romè 2009 Sorì Rio Sordo (Barbares- tensity. Silky and long, it represents the best of the Neb- this shows all of the characteristics of ageability. Wilson 91 co). A bold and modern expression of Nebbi- biolo grape. Tosco Wines. —M.L. Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. olo, this shows bright, pulpy fruit and pretty aromas abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA of blackberry, crushed clove and earthy, rusty tones. There’s a touch of bitter almond on the finish and loads Cascina Saria 2009 Colle del Gelso (Bar- Fontanabianca 2009 Bordini (Barbares- of elegant fruit. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 91 baresco). This opens offers defined aromas of 92 co). Elegant, toned and aromatically intense, abv: NA Price: $NA black cherry, cassis, cola, tar, spice, tobacco and Spanish this shows fine aromas of wild berry, crushed mineral, dried tobacco, cola and a touch of mint. The palate has Continued on Page 15 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, Figgins 2009 Estate Red Wine (Walla Janzen 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vine- European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Walla Valley). The second release of Fig- yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff 98 97 in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and gins—a single wine produced by Leonetti’s Chris Fig- This wine will divide aficionados. Some will find it too Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. gins—is astonishing. Tasted in a lineup of exceptional soft and fruity. Others will marvel at its sheer delicious- If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s Walla Walla reds, it outshined them all. It’s a sophisticat- ness. It’s fantastically rich, a wine of deliriously deca- initials appear following the note. When no initials appear ed blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Mer- dent flavors, ranging from blackberry jam and crème de following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect lot, from the Figgins Vineyard, with gorgeous aromas cassis to mocha, blueberry extract and buttered cinna- the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits of flowers, spices and black fruits. Seamless and long, mon toast. Yes, it’s soft, but it’s the softness of fine vel- Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by complex and forceful without being overpowering, it vet. After all that richness, the finish is amazingly dry. Lauren Buzzeo. can stand alongside top tier Bordeaux costing four or Drink over the next few years to enjoy its youthful beau- Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by five times as much. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ty. —S.H. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.4% Price: $85 abv: 15.1% Price: $135 cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples.
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