BUYING GUIDE SEPTEMBER 2012 Evening light falls on the vineyards of Barbaresco, with the village of Neive on the hill in the distance.

2 PIEDMONT 60 WASHINGTON 26 BORDEAUX 67 NEW YORK 31 LOIRE 69 VIRGINIA 35 ISRAEL 70 OTHER U.S 37 GREECE 71 SPIRITS 39 CYPRUS 73 BEER

39 CHILE FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 44 CALIFORNIA BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM PHOTO © MICK ROCK

WineMag.com | 1 PIEDMONT DECIPHERING 2009 BARBARESCO AND 2008 BAROLO

n aerial view of the Langhe offers an exceptional perspective on within the patchwork of vineyards is the key to understanding 2009 Bar- this storied wine region. I discovered this first hand during my lat- baresco and 2008 Barolo. Producers use the phrase “leopard skin” to de- A est visit to Piedmont—the home of two of Italy’s most prestigious scribe both vintages, as two side-by-side sites can offer strikingly different red wines, Barbaresco and Barolo. interpretations. Within seconds of our helicopter’s stomach-sinking ascent from a soc- Among the 2009 Barbarescos, the wines from Neive display balanced cer field in Alba, we were flying high over a busy patchwork of vineyards acidity and fine tannins, while the wines from Barbaresco and Treiso show colored by the green shading of bud break. The pilot veered right over the pockets of overripe fruit and some grittiness on the close. The summer was blockish castle of Grinzane Cavour, followed by the hilltop towns of Cas- hot and dry, and only certain areas benefited from stored water left over tiglione Falletto, Barolo, Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba in quick from spring rains. Some of my favorite wines come from such producers as succession. A sudden push northeast brought us over Treiso, Neive and the Musso, Castello di Neive and Gaja. tower of Barbaresco. We had seen the Langhe’s most celebrated crus in less In 2008, downy mildew and destructive hail challenged Barolo vint- than 15 minutes of flying time. ners. Some of the most balanced wines originate from Castiglione Fallet- I came away from the excursion with a new appreciation of how small to and Monforte d’Alba, while the wines from Barolo and La Morra exhib- this region is. Within this tiny area of rolling hills, vintners craft hundreds, it wide variation. Producers Luciano Sandrone, Gianni Voerzio, Michele maybe thousands, of wines from the Nebbiolo grape, the region’s prima- Chiarlo, Elvio Cogno and Pio Cesare succeeded despite the conditions, all ry grape variety. crafting wines scoring 94 points or higher. In addition, the topographical variation is enormous. This variation —Monica Larner

2009 BARBARESCO a fresh, light and feminine touch that’s backed by firm Cantina del Pino 2009 Barbaresco. Can- tannin. Tellitalia Imports. —M.L. 91 tina del Pino makes some of the finest Barbares- Gaja 2009 Barbaresco. Gaja’s latest Bar- abv: 14% Price: $65 co available today. This shows a succulent quality, with 93 baresco shows deep aromatic layers of ripe fruit, aromas of smoked bacon, wild berries and forest under- leather, black licorice, dried herb and savory tobacco. It Pietro Rinaldi 2009 San Cristoforo (Bar- brush. Savory and sophisticated, this has loads of per- is extremely velvety and smooth, with firm tannins and a 92 baresco). This opens with a plush, dark ap- sonality. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. richly extracted fruit finish. Terlato Wines International. pearance and generous aromas of ripe fruit, tobacco, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Cellar Selection. —M.L. hazelnut and bitter chocolate. It delivers balance, de- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA termination and polished tannins. Terravino Wine Part- Cascina delle Rose 2009 Tre Stelle (Bar- ners. —M.L. 91 baresco). This opens with plump cherry fruit Musso 2009 Pora (Barbaresco). Pora Bar- abv: NA Price: $36 and some oak shadings. It has bold intensity with a mod- 93 baresco offers an incredibly elegant and fine ern flair and has the high acidity, fresh fruit and tight personality with beautiful accents of wild berry, dried Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2009 Sanadaive tannins needed for successful cellar aging. Polaner Se- ginger, cola, leather, spice and black licorice. The tan- 91 (Barbaresco). Here’s an elegant and fine Bar- lections. Cellar Selection. —M.L. nins are silky and very polished. Panebianco. —M.L. baresco with silky tannins and drying touches of talc abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $46 powder and exotic spice. An austere quality shows on the nose, with smoked bacon, tobacco and black cur- Cascina Luisin 2009 Sorì Paolin (Bar- Castello di Verduno 2009 Rabajà (Bar- rant aromas. It displays beautiful intensity as well. Novo 91 baresco). There’s a tiny touch of apple skin 92 baresco). Hailing from the celebrated Rabajà Imports. —M.L. volatility and fresh raspberry that give this wine enor- Cru, this offers plump fullness and beautiful aromatic abv: 13.5% Price: $28 mous lift and buoyancy. But there are also grounding intensity, with notes of black cherry, leather and a touch aromas of leather and old spice that render a sense of of chocolate powder. The tannins are solid and fine. Oli- Albino Rocca 2009 Duemilanove (Bar- intensity and sophistication. Zig Zagando. —M.L. ver McCrum Wines. —M.L. 91 baresco). This youthful Barbaresco opens abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $45 with soft layers of ripe cherry fruit and a plush, rich texture. There’s substance, firmness and a deeper color Cascina Morassino 2009 Morassino Ceretto 2009 Bricco Asili Bernardot (Bar- here that will give this wine a long aging future. A Marc 91 (Barbaresco). The 2009 vintage has been 92 baresco). From the celebrated Bernardot de Grazia selection. —M.L. kind to Cascina Morassino. This bright Barbaresco Cru, this dark and austere Barbaresco opens with el- abv: NA Price: $45 opens with plump aromas of ripe fruit and cherry, show- egant tones of dried fruit, exotic spice, toasted hazel- ing both dense extraction and impressive aromatic in- nut and tar. Thanks to its natural structure and acidity, Ca’Romè 2009 Sorì Rio Sordo (Barbares- tensity. Silky and long, it represents the best of the Neb- this shows all of the characteristics of ageability. Wilson 91 co). A bold and modern expression of Nebbi- biolo grape. Tosco Wines. —M.L. Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. olo, this shows bright, pulpy fruit and pretty aromas abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA of blackberry, crushed clove and earthy, rusty tones. There’s a touch of bitter almond on the finish and loads Cascina Saria 2009 Colle del Gelso (Bar- Fontanabianca 2009 Bordini (Barbares- of elegant fruit. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 91 baresco). This opens offers defined aromas of 92 co). Elegant, toned and aromatically intense, abv: NA Price: $NA black cherry, cassis, cola, tar, spice, tobacco and Spanish this shows fine aromas of wild berry, crushed mineral, dried tobacco, cola and a touch of mint. The palate has Continued on Page 15

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, Figgins 2009 Estate Red Wine (Walla Janzen 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vine- European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Walla Valley). The second release of Fig- yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff 98 97 in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and gins—a single wine produced by Leonetti’s Chris Fig- This wine will divide aficionados. Some will find it too Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. gins—is astonishing. Tasted in a lineup of exceptional soft and fruity. Others will marvel at its sheer delicious- If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s Walla Walla reds, it outshined them all. It’s a sophisticat- ness. It’s fantastically rich, a wine of deliriously deca- initials appear following the note. When no initials appear ed blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Mer- dent flavors, ranging from blackberry jam and crème de following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect lot, from the Figgins Vineyard, with gorgeous aromas cassis to mocha, blueberry extract and buttered cinna- the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits of flowers, spices and black fruits. Seamless and long, mon toast. Yes, it’s soft, but it’s the softness of fine vel- Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by complex and forceful without being overpowering, it vet. After all that richness, the finish is amazingly dry. Lauren Buzzeo. can stand alongside top tier Bordeaux costing four or Drink over the next few years to enjoy its youthful beau- Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by five times as much. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ty. —S.H. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.4% Price: $85 abv: 15.1% Price: $135 cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Quilceda Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Leonetti Cellar 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. 98 gnon (Columbia Valley). A bold, muscular, 97 (Walla Walla Valley). This is the best bottling Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; striking wine with nerves of steel, this offers a dense, often good value. of a very fine lineup from Leonetti. Dense, textural and Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- demanding array of black fruit threaded with veins of complex, it showcases exceptional blending of flavors critical circumstances. espresso, smoke, tar, tobacco and iron. As it bursts with from the addition of just 7% Merlot, 4% Carmenère Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 exotic barrel flavor, the fruit seems a bit buried, but time and 1% Malbec. Notes of plum, cassis, coffee grounds, points) are not reviewed. after time these wines unfold over the course of decades dark chocolate and a hint of herb run through a com- SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS into glorious maturity. These are arguably the most plete and engaging finish, retaining both elegance and Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent long-lived and cellarworthy wines in Washington—if quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any power. Cellar Selection. —P.G. price with unique qualities that merit special attention. not in the entire country. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $88 Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible abv: 15.2% Price: $135 and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting Dutton-Goldfield 2010 Dutton Ranch products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted 97 Rued Vineyard Chardonnay (Green Val- for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted Betz Family 2009 Père de Famille Caber- will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All ley). The cold and fog actually helped this Chardon- samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission nay, which achieves a remarkable delicacy and tartness 96 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). A por- forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. despite the power of its fruit. Really remarkable for the tion of the Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from vines LABELS flood of golden mango, Asian pear and Key lime pie planted in 1973, with additions of 10% Petit Verdot and Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given richness, which is grounded by a firm minerality. Oak 8% Merlot. It’s an exceptionally fine-tuned blend, with the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on influence and aging on the lees lend the perfect touch- pinpoint fruit flavors, sappy acids and complementary label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax es of smoky, buttered toast and zesty creaminess to this barrel notes. The classic structure, which is the hallmark 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. dry, polished wine. A mere 587 cases were produced. of all Betz wines, suggests a long life ahead. Cellar Se- Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at —S.H. lection. —P.G. buyingguide.winemag.com abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.6% Price: $65

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Elvio Cogno 2007 Cascina Nuova (Baro- Seven Hills 2009 Pentad Red Wine (Walla 95 lo). Elvio Cogno and his son-in-law have Carte Blanche 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 96 Walla Valley). This is a blend of 57% Caber- worked tirelessly since 1990 to uncover the best expres- 94 (Napa Valley). This is the very definition of net Sauvignon, 21% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Franc, sions of Nebbiolo from their hillside vineyards. This a modern cult-style Napa Cabernet. It’s extraordinari- 7% Malbec and 7% Merlot. A masterpiece of blending, is gorgeous, showing power, intensity and complexity. ly rich and flavorful in blackberries, blueberries, cassis it has myriad pinpoint details, from the nose of flow- Aromas include cassis, ginger, cola and crushed granite. and chocolate, while the jacket of tannins is as soft and ers and berries, to the mouthfilling mélange of red It is finely textured and very long on the finish. Drink af- velvety as modern winemaking can achieve. It doesn’t and black fruits and finishing highlights of pepper and ter 2018. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. seem likely to age beyond 2015. —S.H. Asian spice. A precise, complex, elegant and powerful abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 15.2% Price: $125 Pentad with tremendous length, it represents the pin- nacle of vintner Casey McClellan’s 25 years of wine- making. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Leonetti Cellar 2010 Merlot (Walla Wal- 95 la Valley). A classic take on Merlot—this is Carte Blanche 2009 Proprietary Red 100% varietal, and was aged for 15 months in new and Wine (Napa Valley). This is a very rich wine Terra Valentine 2009 Marriage (Spring 94 neutral French oak barrels and botti. The flavors move that’s made in the modern style of soft ripeness and up- Mountain). Few wines in the world can boast 96 through strawberry, raspberry and Bing cherry, with front deliciousness. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sau- this concentration of ripe, flashy fruit. It’s decadent and great breadth of flavor and texture throughout. The vignon and Cabernet Franc, it shows flashy blackberry, enormous in blackberries, cherries, currants, licorice, midpalate is concentrated and full, with a fine, linger- cherry, cassis and chocolate flavors. This is best enjoyed bacon and spice flavors, which are all melted into the ing, superclean finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. over the next few years for it’s sheer luxurious taste. perfect fusion of alcohol and warmth, and elaborated abv: 14.3% Price: $70 —S.H. with smoky, toasty oak. With its level of elegance, this abv: 15.1% Price: $95 is wonderful now, and it should drink well over the next 15 years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

Janzen 2009 Beckstoffer Missouri Hop- Seven Hills 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 94 per Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 95 Red Wine (Red Mountain). A top-notch vin- Valley). This is a stunning example of modern-day Betz Family 2009 Clos de Betz Red Wine tage for this bottling, it’s a blend of 39% Merlot (from Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s soft, complex, smooth 95 (Columbia Valley). A blend of 65% Merlot, the original 1976 block), 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and sweet, with a veneer of smoky, caramelized oak 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot, this is 15% Petit Verdot and 11% Cabernet Franc. Roses, coating the flavors of ripe blackberry, black cherry and slightly more open and accessible than the companion blackberries, cassis and baking spices are beautifully crème de cassis. It’s really delicious, and made all the Cabernet Sauvignon, but it’s clearly structured for cel- rendered in a wine rich in depth and detail. More bottle more appealing by a fine structure of tannins and ac- laring. The plump, expressive midpalate opens gener- age will surely bring greater complexity and soften the ids. —S.H. ously and spreads fully across the tongue, offering notes astringent tannins. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $100 of cherry, cassis, licorice and pepper. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $52

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Vineyard 7&8 2009 Estate 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). Vineyard 7&8’s Spring Mountain Estate Cabernets require aging to show their best, and so it is with this 2009. It’s dry, tannic and unrewarding now due to its astringency and acidity. But it has a terrific heart of blackberries and Joseph Carr 2009 Dijon Clone Chardon- minerals that’s vast and rich—indicative 94 nay (Sonoma Coast). Vintner Carr follows Peju 2008 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Napa of great growing conditions. It should be- up on his great 2008 Reserve with this delicious bot- 94 Valley). Peju’s regular 2008 Cabernet Franc, gin to come into its own after 2015. Cel- tling. In California, it’s usually a cinch to get fruit this released a year ago, was outstanding. This one’s even lar Selection. —S.H. ripe and tropical, and easy to plaster on lots of new oak. better. It’s arguably one of the best California Cabernet abv: 14.8% Price: $125 What’s hard is to fuse the elements seamlessly. This Francs ever. This is absolutely delicious in red cherry wine does, offering waves of Chardonnay opulence. It and blueberry jam, cherry liqueur, cola and sandalwood may have a touch of botrytis, but that’s in its favor. Edi- flavors. It’s marked by an exquisite mouthfeel—all silk tors’ Choice. —S.H. and satin. Give it a few hours in a decanter, and drink abv: 13.9% Price: $18 now with steak or lamb. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $115

Carte Blanche 2009 Chardonnay (So- 93 noma Coast). Oak dominates this Chardon- nay, with buttered toast and butterscotch notes offer- Kori 2010 KW Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir Peju 2008 Estate Bottled Reserve Cab- ing an immediate impact. Underneath the oak tones are 94 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Showing the long ernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). The vintage 94 very rich, opulent flavors of pineapple and orange jam hang time flavors of the cool 2010 vintage, this shows was a good one for Peju, resulting in wines that bear the and lime tart. It’s a bit jumbled now, but this may be a fabulous depth of red berry fruit, with all kinds of lico- winery’s distinctive style of balanced elegance. This re- Chardonnay that can take some cellaring. Give it 3–4 rice, wet stone, spice and sandalwood complexities. It serve is very ripe and flamboyant in blackberry and black boasts a silky texture, with brisk Central Coast acidity years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. currant flavors, with an opulent overlay of toasty oak. abv: 14.2% Price: $75 and even a dusting of tannins. —S.H. This is so delicious that it tastes like there’s a squirt of abv: 14.2% Price: $38 milk chocolate in it, but the wine is, in fact, thoroughly dry. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $105

Damilano 2008 Liste (Barolo). Despite the 93 difficult vintage, this is a fantastic wine. It opens Seven Hills 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard with bright, bold aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry, tobac- Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). co, cedar, licorice and dried rosemary. There’s a plea- 94 surable touch of chocolate fudge that backs the smooth, Loma Prieta 2007 Saveria Vineyard Pi- Again in 2009, winemaker Casey McClellan has crafted rich tannins. This wine should last long in your cellar. not Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Dry and a beautifully pure Cabernet Sauvignon from this vine- 92 Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. briskly acidic, this is rich in cherry, mocha and spice fla- yard. Soft and supple, focused and detailed, it’s a riot abv: 15% Price: $86 vors that are just starting to turn the corner and develop of pastry-like berries and cherries, with a concentrated aged bottle notes. Fascinating now, it should continue midpalate bursting with full-bodied flavor. It moves into to evolve over the next several years, gradually dropping a lengthy finish, with toast, tobacco, coconut and cara- fruit and picking up earthiness. —S.H. mel highlights. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $50 abv: 13.9% Price: $38

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Handley 2009 RSM Vineyard Pinot Noir Nickel & Nickel 2009 Suscol Ranch Mer- (Anderson Valley). This is so succulent you’ll Nefarious Cellars 2010 Stone’s Throw 93 lot (Napa Valley). Big and brawny, this is dry want to finish the entire bottle with a great steak or 93 Vineyard Estate Grown Riesling (Colum- 93 and hard in tannins, as Nickel & Nickel wines tend to chop. It explodes in the mouth with a sunburst of cher- bia Valley). For lovers of the bone-dry Riesling style, be in youth. This one, from a cool section of southern ries and raspberries, spiced with cinnamon, smoky oak this exceptional effort could become the poster child. Napa Valley, is brisk in acids, making it rather closed and orange zest. This is one of Handley’s best in years. Astringent and crisply defined, with elegant focus, this now. But it has a gigantic core of blackberries, with a —S.H. grapefruit- and citrus-scented wine boasts powerful delicious edge of dark chocolate. Merlot is a difficult abv: 14.2% Price: $52 minerality, estate-grown definition and a resonant, lin- gering finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. wine to age in California, but this one should improve abv: 13% Price: $18 over the next five years, maybe longer. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

Iron Horse 2010 Estate Chardonnay 93 (Green Valley). Easily as good as the winery’s more expensive proprietary bottlings, this shows clas- sic Russian River acidity and minerality, with flavors of Peju 2009 Fifty/Fifty Red Wine (Napa Val- Nickel & Nickel 2009 Darien Vineyard tropical fruits, tangerines, golden apricots and limes. It’s 93 ley). Made from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi- Syrah (Russian River Valley). Nickel & really rich, but classically dry, with a long, distinguished 93 gnon in equal parts, this wine aims for the fences and Nickel brings its deft touch for Napa Valley Bordeaux finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.H. largely succeeds. It’s stupendously delicious and addic- varieties to Russian River Syrah, with compelling re- abv: 13.7% Price: $28 tively drinkable, bearing blackberry and blueberry jam, sults. The wine is extraordinarily rich and refined, carry- mocha, anise and sandalwood flavors. It will probably ing waves of blackberry, cherry, dark chocolate, bacon, pick up bottle nuances in a few years, but why wait? smoky cedar and spice flavors. The texture is gloriously —S.H. fine in tannins. A really superior Syrah that should pro- abv: 14.5% Price: $85 vide pleasure over the next four years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

Keller 2009 Precioso Pinot Noir (Sonoma 93 Coast). The brisk acidity and tough tannins Robert Craig 2009 Affinity Cabernet Sau- suggest cellaring this Pinot Noir for a while. To judge by 93 vignon (Napa Valley). The winery’s Affinity the core of cherries and red currants, it should ride out bottling has had mixed results over the years, but this the years effortlessly. Beyond the fruit is a fine, mush- Nickel & Nickel 2009 Harris Vineyard is one of their best, right up there with the 2007. It’s a roomy earthiness and a feral quality sometimes found in 93 Merlot (Oakville). This is beautiful and rich beautiful wine, absolutely dry, tannic, smooth and com- better Sonoma Coast Pinots. Give it until 2017. Cellar in blackberries, black currants and dark chocolate, with plex in black currant flavor. A bright streak of acidity Selection. —S.H. a warming note suggestive of crème de cassis. It shows provides wonderful balance, and should help the wine abv: 14.2% Price: $75 terrific concentration and a classy structure that’s pedi- to age through at least 2019. —S.H. greed and elegant. The tannins are big, so give it a good abv: 14.5% Price: $50 decant; drink now and for the next five years. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012

Elvio Cogno 2008 Ravera (Barolo). This Janzen 2009 Cloudy’s Vineyard Caber- 92 offers generous tones of cherry, dried raspber- 92 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe black- ry, moist tobacco, cured meat and white truffle. It is berry jam, mocha, crème de cassis and spicy, toasty oak elegant, fine and extremely polished; hold for 10 years. flavors combine to make this Cabernet a real blast of Vias Imports. —M.L. enjoyment. It’s soft enough to drink now, yet has a lovely abv: 14.5% Price: $71 texture, with tannins that are sweet and refined. —S.H. Beni di Batasiolo 2008 Barolo. Batasiolo is abv: 14.9% Price: $100 92 a large estate that offers a long list of Piedmont wines. Elegant and bright, this pretty Barolo offers the best of the austere Nebbiolo grape at a reasonably low price. It seduces with attractive aromas and flavors of wild berry, ginger, cola and dried mint. Boisset Family Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Iron Horse 2010 UnOaked Chardonnay 92 (Green Valley). You won’t miss the presence of oak in this Chardonnay. It’s brilliantly forward, ripe and savory, with orange, mango and lime flavors. Nat- ural acidity and a creamy, leesy richness bring extra Sterling 2009 Platinum Cabernet Sau- layers of appeal, and the finish is thoroughly dry. —S.H. 92 vignon (Napa Valley). This is soft, ripe Ca’ Viola 2006 Sotto Castello (Barolo). abv: 13.8% Price: $27 and delicious, in the cult style, with heady blackber- 92 This boasts a bright ruby color, and it shows fine ry jam, chocolate and sweet, caramelized oak flavors. nuances of wild fruit, dried ginger, licorice and dried It’s thoroughly dry and really easy to like, with a certain tobacco. The palate finishes with smooth, silky tannins. dramatic impact. Drink soon. —S.H. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.8% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $59

J. Lohr 2009 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet 92 Sauvignon (St. Helena). Good results almost always occur when J. Lohr, most of whose red wines come from Paso Robles, uses Cabernet Sauvignon from this Napa Valley vineyard. The 2009 is the best effort yet: It’s very rich in black currant flavor, yet it is perfectly Williams Selyem 2009 Forchini Vineyard balanced, with fine acidity and smooth tannins. Drink 92 South Knoll Zinfandel (Russian River Val- this lovely wine now and over the next six years. —S.H. ley). This is a terrific Zinfandel, offering berry, cherry, Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 The Mariner abv: 14.9% Price: $40 mocha, spice and cedar flavors that come wrapped in Meritage (Dry Creek Valley). Dry Creek’s 92 briary tannins. It’s technically dry, but with a satisfying Mariner bottling is a wine that, in good vintages, rises to honeyed note. —S.H.

greatness. The 2008 does just that. It impresses for its abv: 14.7% Price: $50 dryness, richness, classic structure and intricate flavors of blackberries, black currants and herbs. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

WineMag.com | 7 Damilano 2008 Cannubi (Barolo). Dami- Firestone 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Ynez 91 lano’s wines are distinguished by the full, gener- 91 Valley). In this price range, this is one of the ous style they embody. This gorgeous expression shows classiest Chardonnays currently on the market. Bright- Alexandria Nicole 2011 Shepherds Mark intensity and power presented in elegant and measured ened with fine acidity, it’s flavors of pineapple, buttered 91 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Estate Grown terms. The finish is characterized by notes of red cherry, toast and cream are delicious. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. White (Horse Heaven Hills). This Rhône-style spice, cedar and dark cola. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.2% Price: $17 blend—two-thirds Roussanne, the rest divided be- abv: 15% Price: $91 tween Marsanne and Viognier—was made using grapes sourced from the estate Destiny Ridge Vineyard. In- triguing aromas suggest clover, sweet grass and honey- suckle, while the flavors run from stone fruits into hints of light tropical fruits. It’s lovely and evocative. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Muscardini 2011 Alice’s Vineyards Ro- Domaine Gerovassiliou 2010 Chardon- 91 sato di Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). A 91 nay (Epanomi). Ripe white fruits, Turkish de- very fine rosé, this is bone dry, low in alcohol, and very light and spice lead this complex, aromatic Chardonnay. crisp and clean in acidity. That’s the perfect trifecta for Balanced on the palate, with layers of peach, citrus and a blush wine. Flavorwise, it’s all about strawberries, tropical fruit, this is buoyed by fresh acidity. Suitable for peaches and Provençal herbs. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. fuller-bodied meals, it’s also delicious on its own. Cava abv: 12.8% Price: $22 Canoe Ridge 2009 Vineyard Select Cab- Spiliadis. —S.K. 91 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Ex- abv: 13% Price: $44 cellent fruit shines forth in this estate-grown Cabernet from the winery’s Horse Heaven Hills vineyards. Fla- vors of mixed berry, black cherry and cassis carry a prop- er hint of fresh herb. Notations of licorice, earth and dark chocolate add depth and complexity to the elegant finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $22

Nickel & Nickel 2010 Truchard Vineyard Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Cabernet Sau- 91 Chardonnay (Carneros). Sommeliers will 91 vignon (Dry Creek Valley). Dry Creek pro- love this Chardonnay for its lean, Chablis-like elegance. duced this wine and then held it back all of this time The lemon and passion fruit flavors stand alongside to let it properly mellow. It’s beautiful—softly lush, dry stony minerality and a leesy, sourdough bread tartness, and complex in jammy blackberry and cherry fruit, with while the brisk acidity makes the mouth water. Elegant a spicy, briary character that makes it savory. Editors’ rather than opulent, this gathers momentum as it warms Costa Di Bussia 2007 Barolo. Beautifully Choice. —S.H. in the glass. —S.H. balanced and layered, this reveals dried fruit, 91 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.3% Price: $50 hazelnut, ginger, cola and asphalt. At the base is a sol- id tannic structure and a textured mouthfeel with fresh acidity. Siena Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Beaucanon 2009 Longwood Caber- Williams Selyem 2010 Unoaked Char- 90 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A charming 91 donnay (Russian River Valley). An inter- young Cabernet, this is rich in blackberry, currant and esting, crisp and bone-dry Chardonnay that succeeds in anise flavors that are complex and interesting. It’s a very offering plenty of complexity despite the absence of any Terre da Vino 2008 Essenze (Barolo). dry wine, but the fruit is so polished, it seems almost oak influence. The flavors carry the load, with intense sweet. This is delicious now, although it’s pretty tannic 91 Inky and dark, this has modern touches of toast- notes of apricots, Meyer lemons and guavas, and a won- ed oak and exotic spice. Those smoky aromas will de- and could develop bottle complexity over the next 6–8 derful minerality—like a lick of cold steel. —S.H. years. —S.H. crease with time, giving prominence to the cherry and abv: 12.9% Price: $37 blackberry flavors already present. International Wine abv: 14.6% Price: $32 Traders. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

Beni di Batasiolo 2009 Barbaresco. A Alexandria Nicole 2009 Alderdale Desti- 90 bright Barbaresco—this opens with a fresh, 90 ny Ridge Vineyards Estate Grown Caber- floral quality that recalls blue flower and pressed rose. net Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Beautifully Beyond those aromas are layers of almond skin, ginger, structured, this fruit-laden Cabernet shows a rich core cola and hazelnut. It’s an elegant and fine expression of sweet blackberry, cherry and cassis notes that are dap- that needs five more years of cellar aging. Boisset Fam- pled with pretty baking spices. The tannins are smooth ily Estates. —M.L. Twomey 2010 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- and supple; the finish is clean and inviting. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 ley). 91 All of the parts haven’t yet come togeth- abv: 14.7% Price: $32 er: The oak, acidity, fruit and tannins hover around, but they’re not quite completely harmonious yet. Still, it’s very rich, with a massive black-cherry core. It seems to have all the components for a little time in the cellar. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $46

Vineyard 7&8 2009 7 Cab- 91 ernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). It’s soft and gentle in tex- ture, yet richly tannic, with complex Binyamina 2009 Reserve Late Harvest blackberry, black currant, herb and ce- 90 Cluster Select Gewürztraminer (Galilee). dar flavors. It shows the classic ele- Alexandria Nicole 2009 Block 17 Des- This is a stunning, well-balanced late-harvest selec- gance that’s characteristic of this 90 tiny Ridge Vineyards Estate Grown Syr- tion that’s sure to be a welcome addition to any dessert mountain vineyard site. Drink over the ah (Horse Heaven Hills). Cofermented with Viog- course. Notes of ginger and sweet baking spice lift the next 3–4 years. —S.H. nier and blended with 13% Grenache, this concentrat- baked-apple, peach and apricot-preserve fruit core. A abv: 14.8% Price: $75 ed Syrah offers flavors of blackberry, boysenberry and kiss of honeyed sweetness and a soft, candied orange- black cherry wreathed in juicy, citrusy acidity. It’s an ex- peel flavor lingers on the close. Ample acidity keeps the cellent example of the fresh, vivid flavors of Washing- palate fresh and lifted. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- ton-grown Syrah. —P.G. tion. —L.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $42 abv: 9% Price: $27/375 ml

WineMag.com | 9 Courtney Benham 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- gnon (Napa Valley). Go ahead and taste this Carmel 2009 Appellation Cabernet Sau- 90 Cabernet alongside bottlings that cost twice as much— Estate 1856 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon vignon (Galilee). Violet, blackberry, cassis 90 it holds its head high. Dry and smooth on the palate, it (Dry Creek Valley). Voluptuous in the mouth, and blueberry aromas immediately waft from the glass. 90 has complex flavors of blackberries, currants, herbs and with a velvety, chocolate-layer-cake richness. It has Rich and ripe, the palate boasts more of the same con- spices. It feels a little light in body, but very graceful and flavors of cassis liqueur and blackberries in every centrated fruit in a lush, creamy, crushed-velvet-like elegant. —S.H. form—from freshly picked to dried. It’s a delicious wine texture. Notes of charred espresso bean, vanilla pod and abv: 13.9% Price: $25 for drinking now and over the next few years. —S.H. licorice root all unfold on the long finish. Balanced, deli- abv: 14.8% Price: $30 cious and affordable. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Dunham Cellars 2010 Three Legged Red Firestone 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 (Columbia Valley). This is a blend of almost 90 (Santa Ynez Valley). Except for being just a 50% Syrah, with Sangiovese, Cabernet and splashes of Carmel 2009 Appellation Cabernet Sau- bit linear, this is a really good Cabernet for the price. It three other grapes. Jumping from the glass are flavors offers rich blackberry, black currant liqueur, anise and 90 vignon-Shiraz (Galilee). This versatile, food- of juicy raspberry and sweet cherry swathed in a note of friendly blend is a great value that’s perfect for enter- cedar flavors that are wrapped into firm tannins. The chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. balance is really impressive. It’s throwing some sedi- taining. Scents of brambly berry and black plum skin abv: 13.5% Price: $19 immediately unfold on the nose, while dense notes of ment already, so decant it. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 cassis and blackberry take center stage on the palate. Balanced and accessible, the crushed satin texture is framed with medium tannins and lush, rich fruit flavors that stay through the long cocoa-kissed finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $20

Eberle 2008 Wine-Bush Vineyard 60% Frei Brothers 2010 Reserve Chardonnay Steinbeck Vineyard 40% Zinfandel (Paso 90 (Russian River Valley). Lots of toasty, cara- Robles). A spice note marks this lusty, briary Zinfan- 90 melized oak tones combine with ripe flavors of pineap- del. It tingles with touches of clove, anise, cinnamon, ples, pears and green apples. It seems a little sweet on Château Lanbersac 2009 Puisseguin white pepper and nutmeg. It’s also warm, but that heat the finish, but that’s balanced by a swirl of acidity. Drink 90 Saint-Émilion. This is a firm yet ripe wine that merges with the spices to give it a stimulating mouth- now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. boasts ripe black-plum flavors layered with dense and feel. With bright cherry fruit and a jacket of cedar, it’s a abv: 13.9% Price: $20 dusty tannins. The wine is concentrated, with wood ag- fine Zin—one of Eberle’s best in years. —S.H. ing filling out the structure. It is big and bold, finishing abv: 15.5% Price: $26 with great ripe fruit. Superb Wine International LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $18

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Produttori del Barbaresco 2009 Bar- 90 baresco. Still in need of cellar aging, this Schug 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- Gosset NV Excellence Brut (Cham- shows aromas of toasted almond and vanilla backed by noma Valley). This is a very nice Cabernet pagne). Tense and crisp, this is a balanced 90 90 notes of dried fruit, honey and cassis. The mouthfeel is that’s gentle and soft in the mouth, with luscious black- food-friendly Champagne. It is dry, and its apple- and beautifully firm and solid. Drink after 2018. Vias Im- berry and mocha flavors. It seems a little too light for citrus-like acidity has rounded out with some bottle age. ports. —M.L. aging, but should make for excellent drinking now and The acidity cuts right through to give the wine a great abv: 13.5% Price: $37 over the next year or two. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. lift of freshness on the finish. Palm Bay International. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $47

Silverado 2010 Estate Grown Chardon- Recanati 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- nay (Carneros). Smooth and rich, this has gnon (Galilee). There’s a nice herbal streak to 90 90 creamy flavors of buttered toast, golden mango, Key the cassis and bramble berry core of this wine. A full, ro- lime pie and honey. Balancing all the sweet richness is bust structure and firm tannins frame the weighty dark- fine acidity and a steely minerality. It’s a bit dialed into fruit flavors, while accents of tobacco and leather unfold the modern style, but there’s no denying the opulent de- Obelisco Estate 2009 Estate Grown Cab- on the long, evolving finish. Drink now–2018. Palm Bay liciousness of this Chardonnay. —S.H. 90 ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This International. —L.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 wine hits the palate with authority, showing pretty abv: 14.5% Price: $25 black-cherry and cassis flavors, and soft, slightly leath- ery, drying tannins. The well-structured Red Mountain fruit has the potential to age well for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $40

Kenwood 2009 Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). A Or Haganuz Winery 2009 Namura Select 89 very good Cabernet for drinking now. It’s dry and pretty 90 (Galilee). Scents of jammy black plum and Santa Rita 2007 Triple C Red Wine (Mai- 90 po Valley). This smells like fortified wine and tannic, with blackberry, cherry and tobacco flavors that cherry lead the nose of this blend, with exotic notes of finish spicy and seemingly sweet. It earns extra points crushed violet and iris petal adding depth to the fruit licorice at first, then more like earth and smoked meat. High acidity gives this blend a racy quality but also as- for its chewy deliciousness. —S.H. core. Great flavors of peppery spice and dense black- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 berry fruit fill the velvet-textured palate. Medium acid- tringency, while the flavors of blackberry, prune and lic- ity keeps the palate fresh and balanced, while a deca- orice are very nice. It’s tannic and strong but not quite dent, fudgy brownie note carries through the long fin- punishing on the finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. ish. Kosher. Happy Hearts Wine LLC. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $34

WineMag.com | 11 Muscardini 2010 Pauli SPIRITS 88 Ranch Barbera (Red- wood Valley). This has a pungent dustiness that’s pleasing, rounded out Tap 357 Canadian Maple by ripe, tart fruit like pomegranate. 92 Rye Whisky (Canada; Van It’s well-integrated, soft and smooth. Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL). This The herbal notes should pair well maple-syrup-flavored whisky is sure with herb-rubbed roasted chicken. to please anyone with a sweet tooth. —V.B. The base is a small-batch blend of 3- abv: 14.9% Price: $38 5- and 7-year-old Canadian rye whis- kies, lending backbone to the big ma- ple and vanilla flavors, with a touch of Lyrarakis 2011 Okto Dry White Wine peach and clove on the finish. Good 89 (Crete). Aromas of soft pear, peach, flower and for sipping over ice or mixing, as in citrus are followed by layers of tropical fruit, citrus and Tap 357’s suggested cocktail, The pear on the palate. It’s round, viscous mouthfeel should Montreal––a riff on the Manhattan. enable it to stand up to robust poultry and seafood dish- abv: 40.5% Price: $30 es. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Dutch’s Spirits New York 90 Sugar Wash Moonshine (USA; Dutch’s Spirits, New York, NY). A newcomer to the spirits biz, this brand is named for notorious bootlegger Dutch Schultz. How fit- ting to start by issuing a moonshine, and a unique one at that: It’s distilled from pure cane sugar, though it’s clas- sified as “neutral cane,” not rum. That said, this vanilla-forward hooch, with Domaine Katsaros 2010 Chardonnay a delicate floral touch on the lingering Estate Biblia Chora 2008 Areti Agiorgi- 87 (Krania Olympus). Lemon, orange and tan- tiko (Pangeon). This expressive red starts finish, would be great for using in any 88 gerine aromas are followed by pert waves of lemon, drink usually made with rum. Well with aromas of raspberry, sour cherry and vanilla, lead- spice and mineral in this elegant Chardonnay. The wine ing into a medium-bodied, mouthfilling array of fruit, balanced and smooth. has seen oak but is still quite fresh in style; pair with abv: 40% Price: $30 spice and a touch of sweetness. Balanced and struc- ceviche or oysters. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. tured, with an appealing spice backbone, this wine is an abv: 14% Price: $35 example of an indigenous red with true global appeal. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 BEST BUYS SPIRITS

Masterson’s 10-Year-Old 94 Straight Rye Whiskey (Canada; 35 Maple/The Other Guys, Sonoma, CA). This 10-year- old straight rye whiskey would make a top-notch Sazerac. Despite its rich, luxe aroma, this is light and smooth J. Lohr 2010 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay on the palate. Look for notes of sweet, 88 (Arroyo Seco). This shows a deft touch in its creamy caramel and dried fruit enliv- balance of ripe tropical and pear fruit and sweet oak ened by a signature rye bite and a influence. This is varietally proper and marked by brisk sweet, surprisingly delicate finish Monterey acidity, lending itself to drinking with a wide with just a sprinkling of ginger and variety of foods. —S.H. cinnamon. The sepia photo on the la- Jones of Washington 2011 Estate Vine- abv: 14.9% Price: $25 bel features “gambler, buffalo hunter, 91 yards Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). This Army scout, gunfighter and newspa- is the best Pinot Gris yet from Jones; the grapes were perman” William “Bat” Masterson. sourced from the 2 Gun Vineyard in the upcoming abv: 45% Price: $80 Ancient Lakes region—a future American Viticultural Area. Leesy and creamy, it seduces with a layer of rich cream wrapped around bright orange and semitropical fruit flavors. It’s full and fresh, and it lingers. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.4% Price: $12

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Waterbrook 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Co- Mercer 2010 Riesling (Yakima Valley). It lumbia Valley). A standout in this new vin- would be interesting to slip this marvelous Ries- 91 91 tage, Waterbrook’s pure varietal bottling explodes into ling into a blind tasting of Mosel wines. Superb balance life with bright, spicy, pungent scents of recently mown Jones of Washington 2011 Estate Vine- and finesse underscore the delicately rendered flavors lawn, herb, pine needle, citrus and melon. Fresh, clean, yards Viognier (Wahluke Slope). A can- of peach, apricot and lemon tea. A scent of powdered 90 textural and persistent, it has a depth of flavor rarely died citrus flavor marks this fresh, bracing, barrel-fer- sugar is the only suggestion of the 1% residual sugar. found at this price. Best Buy. —P.G. mented Viognier from the estate vineyards. Despite low Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $12 alcohol and a hint of sweetness, it retains a crisp miner- abv: 12.9% Price: $15 ality, with a finishing lick of lime rind. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $15

O•S Winery 2011 Riesling (Columbia Valley). 91 Winemaker Bill Owen consistently Mercer 2010 Pinot Gris (Columbia Val- produces one of Washington’s most stylish Rieslings. Jones of Washington 2011 Estate Vine- ley). Aromas of melon and pear run into a High in acid and low in alcohol, the sweet-tart balance 90 90 yards Chardonnay (Wahluke Slope). The smooth, full-bodied core of lovely fruit that’s highlight- of the wine is exciting and perfectly rendered. Despite fruit flavors of apples and dried apricots are enhanced ed with a hint of fresh cream. Broad and mouthfilling, a change in vineyard sources, this remains rich, round with notes of toasted walnuts and sweet grain. Made with excellent concentration, this is a fine example of and juicy, with flavors of peach, apricot and a hint of from estate-grown Chardonnay, this is lush and fruity, Washington State Pinot Gris. Best Buy. —P.G. fresh cream. Best Buy. —P.G. with complex detailing from having fermented in Hun- abv: 12.9% Price: $15 abv: 9.8% Price: $15 garian oak puncheons. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $15

Recanati 2010 Shiraz (Galilee). Scents of 90 licorice root, bramble and a soft menthol note Pacific Rim 2011 Dry Riesling (Colum- grace this balanced Shiraz’s black cherry, raspberry and 91 bia Valley). A fresh and textural wine, this puts Jones of Washington 2011 Sauvignon boysenberry fruit. This is medium weight, with mod- a spicy spin on citrus rind, peach and apricot flavors. 90 Blanc (Columbia Valley). This well-made, erate tannins and an approachable structure. A note There’s an intriguing hint of white pepper as well, and pure Sauvignon Blanc seems to have a noticeable of roasted espresso bean and a hint of chicory carry an overall sensation of density, intensity and exceptional amount of residual sugar—not surprising in a high acid through the long finish. Mevushal. Palm Bay Interna- length. Best Buy. —P.G. vintage such as 2011. Zesty, lightly grassy, spicy and tional. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $11 stylish, it’s fresh and rich on the palate, with a finishing abv: 14% Price: $15 streak of minerality. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $15

WineMag.com | 13 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Viña el Aromo 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 (Maule Valley). This is slightly rubbery smell- Pacific Rim 2011 Riesling (Columbia Val- ing, but overall the cassis and black cherry aromas more Washington Hills 2011 Riesling (Wash- ley). The sweetness gauge on the back label in- than do the job. It feels healthy, with a shock of core ington). 88 90 Light and lovely, this has just under dicates this as medium dry, and at 3.2% residual sugar, acids propelling black cherry, currant, herb and spice 2% residual sugar, but it tastes drier than that. Arresting there is more than a hint of sweetness. It’s all in fine bal- flavors. Slightly herbal on the finish, but overall this is scents of jasmine tea and honeysuckle give it an entic- ance, full flavored, fruity and round. A mix of peaches, very good stuff for under $10. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Best ing floral character. It glides into a soft palate dappled apricots and Mandarin oranges makes this an interest- Buy. —M.S. with accents of flowers, oils and incense. Includes small ing Riesling with some complexity. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $9 amounts of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer. Best abv: 11.5% Price: $11 Buy. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

Oak Grove 2011 Reserve Sauvignon 86 Blanc (California). This is easy to like for its Three Pears 2011 Pinot Gris (California). combination of ripe fruit and brisk acidity. It has rich, Castle Rock 2010 Chardonnay (Colum- zesty flavors of oranges, papayas, apricots and limes. With an opening whiff of peach fuzz, this is a bia Valley). Value wines like this Castle Rock 88 While the finish tastes a little sweet, the acidity provides 88 full-bodied yet crisp Pinot Gris with tons of personaliy. Chardonnay may soon be a distant memory, if predicted a clean balance. Best Buy. —S.H. A liquid version of ripe pear and vanilla crème brûlée, grape shortages come to pass. Soft, ripe and round, this abv: 13% Price: $8 this is an impressive, easy and pleasing wine. Best Buy. has flavors of pineapple, guava, light vanilla and butter —V.B. Best Buy. cookie. This is one to grab and savor. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $11

Leese-Fitch 2010 Chardon- 88 nay (California). Easily as good as Chardonnays costing two or three times as much, this is a great value, and with production at 12,000 cases, it should be fairly easy to find. It’s rich in orange, Viña el Aromo 2010 Carmenère (Maule apricot and buttered toast flavors, with Valley). Aromas of black fruits are blended balancing acidity and a dry finish.Best 86 with pine needles and herbs. Lively in feel, this has fla- Buy. —S.H. Oak Grove 2011 Reserve Pinot Grigio vors of berry, herb and spice. It narrows on the finish, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 87 (California). Savory and satisfying, this is one where a mild bitterness and some warmth come into of the best Pinot Grigios at this price point. It shows play. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. real class, with brisk acidity framing flavors of lemons, abv: 13.5% Price: $9 limes, mangoes and honey. Perfect for drinking with today’s Asian, Indian, Ethiopian and Mexican fare, or on its own as an apéritif. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 cedar. An ethereal tone of chopped mint or rosemary oil also appears on the finish. The mouthfeel is crisp, taut, BEST BUYS BEST BUYS firm and long. Baldocchino Fine Wines . —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

La Ganghija 2009 Barbaresco. This shows 91 Nebbiolo in its glorious infancy, with tight aromas of currant and wild berry followed by background tones of tar, licorice and softly toasted spice. The tannins are firm and will soften with a few more years of aging. Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

Michele Chiarlo 2009 Reyna (Barbaresco). 91 There’s a ripe, plump quality to this Barbares- co that includes aromas of black cherry, prune, plum, Main Street 2009 Merlot (Monterey Coun- spice, leather and tobacco. Those savory aromas are 85 ty). This is dry, silky and easy, with pleasant ber- Bota Box 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). ry, tobacco and spice flavors. It’s not complicated—just followed by smooth, velvety tannins. Kobrand. —M.L. 85 Throwing a party? Need plenty of white wine a fine, affordable sipper. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $40 to make the rounds? This is the solution. With slightly abv: 13.5% Price: $10 sweet apricot, orange and vanilla flavors, it’s clean, brisk Moccagatta 2009 Basarin (Barbaresco). and likeable. Best Buy. —S.H. 91 Past vintages of Moccagatta’s Basarin Barbares- abv: 13% Price: $20/3 L co have been stellar, but this bottling still needs time to find its feet. The fruit is youthful and raw; the tannins are tight and astringent. Give this wine 8–10 years to evolve. A Marc de Grazia selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $60

Moccagatta 2009 Bric Balin (Barbaresco). 91 This has a dark ruby appearance, opening with succulent aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate and licorice. It boasts loads of intensity and a youthful, astrin- gent quality to its tannins. Let it age 10 years or more. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $60 Montevina 2010 Pinot Grigio (Califor- Delicato 2011 Domino Pinot Grigio (Cal- 85 nia). Brisk and clean, this dry white is the Montaribaldi 2009 Palazzina (Barbares- 85 ifornia). With a sweet finish, this easy white anti-Chardonnay, marked by tart citrus flavors that make 91 co). A cellarworthy Barbaresco—this opens with wine has ripe flavors of oranges and limes. Brisk acidity it versatile with a wide range of foods. Best Buy. —S.H. dusty aromas of crushed mineral and tobacco backed by helps keep the finish clean and zippy. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 ethereal tones of cola and dried violet. There’s a dusty, abv: 13% Price: $7 firm quality to the tannins that help propel the long, silky finish. Zancanella Importing Co.Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

Musso 2009 Bricco Rio Sordo (Barbares- 91 co). There’s a bright cherry note at the start but once this vineyard-designate Barbaresco revs up in the glass, it also delivers soft notes of spice, leather and gin- ger. The smoothness of the tannins suggests that this wine will be ready to drink in 3–5 years. Panebianco. —M.L. Veuve du Vernay NV Brut (Vin Mousseux). abv: 14% Price: $46 85 Pale and crisp, this has yeast and herb flavors, with a creamy character from the mousse. Light and just Orlando Abrigo 2009 Rocche Meruzzano off-dry, this would make for a fine apéritif. Patriarche (Barbaresco). Round and supple, this opens USA. Best Buy. —R.V. 91 with dark concentration and fresh tones of espresso Happy Camper 2010 Merlot (California). abv: 11% Price: $10 85 Although it’s a little slender and simple, it’s good bean and toasted nut. The underlying fruit and acidity for the price and offers pleasant cherry and spice flavors is here—as is the firmness of the tannins. Cellar this for that finish dry. Best Buy. —S.H. 10 more years. Ionia Atlantic. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $9 abv: NA Price: $NA

Pelissero 2009 Nubiola (Barbaresco). Still 91 in its infancy, this opens with ripe fruit aromas of blackberry and wild berry followed by touches of sweet coffee or chocolate-covered hazelnut. There’s a nice plushness and richness to the bouquet overall. The qual-

WineMag.com | 15 ity of the tannins is firm and slightly textured. Drink af- Cascina Morassino 2009 Ovello (Bar- It shows elegance and finesse, with a light touch of ter 2018. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 90 baresco). Ovello is one of the most elegant smoked spice and firm tannins on the long finish. An- abv: NA Price: $45 vineyard crus in Barbaresco. This savory expression gelini Wine. —M.L. opens with a drying aromas of crushed mineral, graham abv: NA Price: $30 Pertinace 2009 Marcarini (Barbaresco). cracker and toasted almond. The palate is ripe and suc- 91 From the Marcarini Cru, this dark and brood- culent with a cherry flavor. Tosco Wines. —M.L. Pier 2009 Rio Sordo (Barbaresco). This ing expression of Nebbiolo opens with intense aromas abv: NA Price: $NA 90 elegant, floral expression shows feminine tones of dried raspberry, currant and crème de cassis. Wet of lavender, rose and violet set over a silky mouthfeel. earth, dried flower and chopped herb also appear on Castello di Neive 2009 Santo Stefano Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. the palate, adding to the sensation of softness and rich- 90 (Barbaresco). Barbaresco Santo Stefano is a abv: 14% Price: $50 ness. MW Imports. —M.L. linear and silky expression of Nebbiolo, with pretty aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 mas of dried raspberry and smoke. It shows elegance Poderi Colla 2009 Roncaglie (Barbares- and a bright, lively finish. Winebow. —M.L. 90 co). This bright Barbaresco from the celebrat- Piero Busso 2009 San Stunet - S. Stefa- abv: NA Price: $65 ed Roncaglie Cru opens with mild bitterness and astrin- 91 netto (Barbaresco). Elegant and bright, this gency that will soften with more years of cellar aging. shows extraordinary elegance and finesse. It delivers Giacosa Fratelli 2009 Vigna Basarin (Bar- The bouquet is streamlined and elegant with feminine smoked aromas of crushed granite and tar, with notes of 90 baresco). This opens with simple fruit tones aromas of rose, violet and dried ginger. Montcalm Wine dried raspberry and crème de cassis. The young tannins of cherry and cassis backed by evolved aromas of spice, Importers. —M.L. are already silky and smooth. A.I. Selections . —M.L. leather and cola. It shows impressive purity and a long, abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA silky finish. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $52 Produttori del Barbaresco 2009 Bar- Rivetti Massimo 2009 Froi (Barbares- 90 baresco. For full review see page 11. 91 co). Silky, clean and lean, this showcases typi- Luigi Oddero & Figli 2009 Barbaresco. abv: 13.5% Price: $37 cal Nebbiolo aromas of cola, blue flower and powdered 90 There’s a touch of playful sweetness as the bou- licorice. The mouthfeel delivers firmness and youthful quet begins to evolve in the glass, recalling sweet rasp- Prunotto 2009 Barbaresco. This opens with determination that will soften with 10 or more years of berry and wild blueberry. Behind those youthful tones 90 aromas of sweet marzipan and bright forest ber- cellar aging. Wine Emporium. —M.L. are delicate layers of licorice, dried mint and dark va- ry, with subtle tones of ginger, cola and chopped herb abv: NA Price: $NA nilla. Still young, the tannins already show an evolution filling in the background. It is tight and firmly astringent; toward silkiness. —M.L. drink after 2018. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. Rivetto 2009 Cè Vanin (Barbaresco). This abv: 13.5% Price: $54 abv: NA Price: $NA 91 opens with a gorgeous bouquet that shows ele- ments of fresh fruit and careful oak aging. Currant and Marchesi di Barolo 2009 Serragrilli (Bar- Rizzi 2009 Pajoré (Barbaresco). This wild berry flavors are enhanced by light strokes of va- 90 baresco). This shows beautiful aromatic in- 90 is a crisp expression of Nebbiolo that is fi- nilla bean and toasted hazelnut. Impressive brightness tensity, with plush ripeness and sweet tones of wild nessed and elegant. It opens with dusty aromas of and crispness characterizes the long finish. Vintage Im- berry and spice. There’s a blast of moist tobacco on the dried currant, crushed stone and black pepper. The ports, Inc. —M.L. close followed by tight tannins and fine structure. Wine tannins are solid and polished; it needs at least 10 more abv: 14% Price: $40 Wave. —M.L. years of cellar aging. The Wine Company. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $58 Terre da Vino 2009 La Casa in Collina 91 (Barbaresco). This shows dark fruit aromas of Michele Chiarlo 2009 Asili (Barbaresco). Rocca Felice 2009 Barbaresco. Elegant blackberry and cherry, with density and richness. Subtle 90 The celebrated Barbaresco Asili shows deep 90 and nuanced, this opens with ethereal layers of touches of roasted espresso and asphalt fill in the rear. concentration and ripe fruit, with a bright cherry note dried fruit, leather, spice and black licorice. There’s a There’s fruity softness or plushness on the palate, fol- and a perfumed blue-flower touch. Notes of sweet basil taut firmness to the finish that should soften as the tan- lowed by firm tannins. International Wine Traders.Edi - and chopped herb follow, giving the bouquet an aro- nins mature over the next 5–10 years. Very nice. Saranty tors’ Choice. —M.L. matic lift. Kobrand. —M.L. Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: NA Price: $90 abv: 13.5% Price: $30

Beni di Batasiolo 2009 Barbaresco. For Montaribaldi 2009 Sorì Montaribaldi Socré 2009 Barbaresco. This is delicate and 90 full review see page 9. 90 (Barbaresco). Thanks to its silky mouthfeel 90 fine, with a beautiful and feminine personality. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 and balanced acidity, this renders a sensation of ele- Aromas include soapy lavender, rose, dried ginger and gance and finesse. There’s pulp and dimension on the medicinal herb. The tannins are dry and silky. David Ca’ del Baio 2009 Valgrande (Barbares- nose with layers of red currant and underbrush. Zan- Vincent Selection. —M.L. 90 co). Sometimes Nebbiolo, depending on the canella Importing Co. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA ripeness of the fruit at harvest time, trades in its charac- abv: NA Price: $NA teristic austerity for softer tones of ripe fruit and dried Socré 2009 Roncaglie (Barbaresco). En- currant. This shows those plusher fruit tones backed by Pertinace 2009 Vigneto Nervo (Barbares- 90 hanced by notes of oak spice and toast, this vine- notes of exotic spice and crushed mineral. The mouth- 90 co). From the Nervo Cru, this dark Barbaresco yard-designate offering bears aromas of sweet vanilla, feel is firm, tart and structured. Omniwines Distribu- shows a slight edge in terms of concentration and aro- cinnamon and bright cherry. It is smooth and silky, but tion. —M.L. matic intensity. Notes of dark fruit, hazelnut and roast- firmly structured on the long finish. David Vincent Se- abv: NA Price: $NA ed espresso bean compose the bouquet, and the wine lection. —M.L. delivers smooth softness on the finish. Those character- abv: NA Price: $NA Cascina delle Rose 2009 Rio Sordo (Bar- istics suggest that this may be ready to drink earlier than 90 baresco). This opens with a savory earth tone others. MW Imports. —M.L. Ugo Lequio 2009 Gallina (Barbaresco). and drying layers of crushed stone and wet granite. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 90 Ugo Lequio is a winemaker who presents some There are also pretty aromas of violets and pressed blue of the best expressions from the Gallina Cru. This flowers. It finishes with fine tannins and a slightly gritty Piazzo Armando 2009 Barbaresco. A vi- shows bright berry and cola characteristics, with beau- texture. Polaner Selections. —M.L. 90 brant expression of Nebbiolo, this has a bright abv: 14.5% Price: $50 cherry note and ethereal tones of ginger and cola.

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 tiful complexity and fresh acidity. Admiralty Beverage. There’s also a very pretty blast of natural freshness on mint and medicinal herb. Overall, it’s elegant, delicate —M.L. the close. Winebow. —M.L. and streamlined. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $35 abv: NA Price: $30

Vigin 2009 Noemy (Barbaresco). Give Francone 2009 I Patriarchi (Barbaresco). Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2009 Basarin 90 this a few more years of cellar aging to better 89 Raw fruit notes of cherry and raspberry will 88 (Barbaresco). The 2009 vintage has pro- integrate the oak spice and toast elements that appear find true dimension as this continues to age. There’s a duced a more subdued expression from Barbaresco’s on the bouquet. Nebbiolo’s legendary aging potential slightly sour note of bitter almond on the finish, and the celebrated Basarin cru. This has a tight, tannic grip, shines through with tight tannins, bright acidity and a mouthfeel is smooth and polished. De Benedetto Im- with tame aromas of wild berry, cola and ginger. Novo beautiful medley of balsamic and herb aromas. Domace ports. —M.L. Imports. —M.L. Vino. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Giacosa Fratelli 2009 Basarin Vigna Michele Taliano 2009 Ad Altiora (Bar- Vigin 2009 NonnOrlando (Barbaresco). 89 Gianmatè (Barbaresco). Dark richness and 88 baresco). This opens with ripe, almost jammy, 90 Here’s a full and generous Barbaresco with ruby extraction give this Barbaresco a very beautiful ap- notes of strawberry and black cherry followed by sweet tones of bold fruit, cola, leather, tobacco and cured pearance. The bouquet offers bold aromas of raw cher- almond and spice scents. There’s a touch of sweetness meat. The alcohol adds to the overall muscle of this ry, spice and leather. The wine closes with a succulent, on the close that’s backed by a plush, succulent mouth- wine. Domace Vino. —M.L. fruit-driven finish. Bedford International. —M.L. feel. Dancing Bear Cellars. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $52 abv: NA Price: $NA

Albino Rocca 2009 Ronchi (Barbaresco). La Ca’ Nova 2009 Montestefano (Bar- Nada Giuseppe 2009 Casot (Barbares- 89 This vineyard-designate Barbaresco opens with 89 baresco). This opens with some brambly and 88 co). Shows slightly riper characteristics, this streamlined elegance and subtle aromas of chopped mint, earthy qualities of rusty earth, pressed violet and cassis. has notes of dark fruit, smoked bacon, cola and teriyaki crème de cassis and ginger. The firmness of the tannins It offers loads of intensity with cooling acidity and notes sauce. There’s a slight dustiness to the tannins. Bayfield holds it together. A Marc de Grazia selection. —M.L. of cherry and leather on the finish. —M.L. Importing Ltd. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $55 abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA

Barale Fratelli 2009 Serraboella (Bar- Marchesi di Barolo 2009 Tradizione (Bar- Negro Angelo e Figli 2009 Cascinotta 89 baresco). This opens with generous aromat- 89 baresco). Soft and bold, this has ripe aromas of 88 (Barbaresco). Tight and streamlined, this has ic fullness and brightness, with notes of black cherry, raspberry and blueberry backed by notes of tar, espresso elegant tones of smoke, crushed granite and dried berry. spice, leather and tobacco. The oak notes are still ob- and moist earth. It shows a bright point of acidity on the It shows a simple linearity, and its purity and honesty vious so give this wine five more years of cellar aging. close. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. is ultimately the wine’s strongest card. Nardone Wine. Wine Emporium. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45 —M.L. abv: NA Price: $41 abv: NA Price: $NA Molino 2009 Teorema (Barbaresco). This Ca’ del Baio 2009 Asili (Barbaresco). 89 opens with sweet aromas of ripe cherry and Olek Bondonio 2009 Barbaresco. This 89 Nicely perfumed and elegant, this offers aro- blackberry. It is bold and defined by a generous, mod- 88 opens with earthy tones of leather, spice and mas of wild berry, pressed blue flower and white lic- ern style, with soft tannins on the finish. Italia Wine Im- cured meat. There are notes of dried fruit and cassis as orice. The young tannins are astringent, firm and fol- ports. —M.L. well. It’s compact and still slightly astringent; drink after lowed by crisp acidity. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA 2017. Tanaro River Imports LLC. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $59 Olek Bondonio 2009 Roncagliette (Bar- Ca’ du Rabajà 2009 Barbaresco. Linear, 89 baresco). Bright and streamlined, this has Pasquale Pelissero 2009 Bricco San Gi- 89 silky and long, this has ethereal tones of cola, lic- aromas of wild berry, cassis, ginger and cherry cola. It 88 ulano (Barbaresco). This delivers dusty and orice and dried mint. There’s also a pretty mineral com- shows fine structure and fresh crispness. Tanaro River austere tannins, with tight notes of wild berry, forest ponent of brimstone and talcum powder that gives the Imports LLC. —M.L. floor, cola and crushed stone. There’s not much fruit, palate a dry feel. Massanois Imports.—M.L. abv: NA Price: $75 but the tannic structure and acidity give this wine aging abv: NA Price: $NA potential. Grape Expectations (NC). —M.L. Punset 2009 Campo Quadro (Barbares- abv: NA Price: $NA Ca’ du Rabajà 2009 Rabajà (Barbares- 89 co). Punset offers organic and biodynamic 89 co). This austere expression opens with drying wines that require long years of cellar aging to complete Cortese Giuseppe 2009 Rabajà (Bar- tones of crushed mineral and brimstone, with lush notes their evolution. Currently, this is still disjointed and grit- 87 baresco). Crisp and brightfresh acidity and of bright cherry and wild berry at the back. It also shows ty; give it some time as this has potential for the great- ethereal aromas of rosemary and dried basil. The nose fine silkiness and crisp acidity. Massanois Imports.— ness. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. is pungent. Winebow. —M.L. M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $55 abv: NA Price: $NA Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di La Spinona 2009 Bricco Faset (Barbares- Cantina del Nebbiolo 2009 Barbaresco. 89 Gresy 2009 Martinenga (Barbaresco). 87 co). This opens with a cherry liqueur note and 89 Sweet almond, wild berry, dried ginger and This shows a lean, silky texture, with a touch of bright dark concentration. There’s a touch of barbecue smoke cherry cola are some of the interesting aromas in this alcohol on the finish. Its a finely-textured wine that’s or teriyaki sauce backed by gritty tannins and ripe fruit. wine. A touch of oak, in the form of honey-roasted nut, redolent of wild berry, cola and white cherry. Dalla Ter- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. appears on the close. Lettieri & Co. —M.L. ra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $37 abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $54 Cascina Luisin 2009 Rabajà (Barbares- Castello di Neive 2009 Barbaresco. Fresh Villadoria 2009 Barbaresco. This opens 86 co). This opens with raw and sour aromas of 89 and subdued , this offers a delicate bouquet that 89 with bright intensity and fresh notes of cola, wild berry and white cherry. There are touches of al- is colored by all kinds of minute aromatic details, like cured meat, tobacco, crème de cassis and black licorice.

WineMag.com | 17 mond and ginger, but the finish is astringent and bitter. Prunotto 2007 Bric Turot (Barbaresco). be cellar aged before it shows its best. Made using or- Drink after 2018. Zig Zagando. —M.L. 91 Rich and savory, this has bold fruit notes of ganic and biodynamic fruit, this offers an elegantly sub- abv: NA Price: $NA cherry and blackberry followed by delicate nuances of dued berry tone, with long, polished tannins. Hold for licorice, tar, spice and leather. Thanks to its structure 10 more years. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. Dante Rivetti 2009 Bric Micca (Barbares- and density, it’s a wine you can really sink your teeth abv: NA Price: $NA 86 co). This shows aromas of raw fruit and exotic into. Winebow. —M.L. spice. The finish is firm and fresh with a nice quality of abv: 14% Price: $75 Rizzi 2007 Barbaresco. Light shadings of both tannins and acidity. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 90 spice and ripe berry fruit open the nose of this abv: NA Price: $55 Rivetti Massimo 2007 Serraboella Riser- elegant wine. Its natural plushness and richness set it 91 va (Barbaresco). This opens with delicate apart. —M.L. aromas of soapy lavender flower, pressed rose petal, abv: 14% Price: $36 OTHER BARBARESCO sweet marzipan and white pepper. The tannins seem Rizzi 2007 Boito (Barbaresco). Castello di Neive 2007 Santo Stefano evolved and silky, and there’s a touch of sweet fruit on This shows a riper, softer personality compared to previous Riserva (Barbaresco). Here is a very elegant the finish. Wine Emporium. —M.L. 90 93 vintages of this wine. The finish is plush and rich and and smooth wine that leaves a silky, polished impres- abv: NA Price: $NA should pair with succulent cuts of red meat. —M.L. sion in the mouth. It awards the nose with bright aromas Bersano 2008 Mantico (Barbaresco). abv: 14% Price: $45 of wild berry, licorice and toasted almond. It’s simple, Tight aromas of berry, tar, smoke and roasted genuine and sophisticated all at once. Winebow. —M.L. 90 Luca Bosio 2007 Barbaresco. This is aged abv: NA Price: $75 hazelnut open this wine. It’s linear, silky and long on the finish, with a fine quality of tannin. Vin Divino. —M.L. 89 for two years in French oak to shape a complex Castello di Verduno 2007 Rabajà Riser- abv: 14% Price: $45 and layered bouquet that bears notes of red currant, smoked meat and exotic spice. The palate is firm, finely va (Barbaresco). Rabajà is among the most 92 Cascina Bruciata 2007 Rio Sordo Riser- textured and long lasting. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. coveted vineyard sites in Barbaresco, and this Riserva va (Barbaresco). This has a slightly brown- abv: 14% Price: $32 expression shows the potential of its fruit. It shows ex- 90 ing color and bright garnet highlights. It offers aromas treme balance and pretty highlights of wild berry, spice, of dried fruit, raspberry, toasted almond and licorice. Dante Rivetti 2007 Bricco di Neive Riser- licorice and lemon zest. Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. va (Barbaresco). Indian spice, cardamom, abv: NA Price: $70 There’s a very nice blast of acidity on the finish. Villa 88 Italia. —M.L. clove and dried berry aromas open the nose. The palate

Elvio Cogno 2008 Bordini (Barbaresco). abv: 14% Price: $78 has a raw, chewy quality, so give this 10 more years of cellar aging. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Elvio Cogno shows a deft hand with the difficult 92 Fratelli Casetta 2007 Riserva (Barbares- abv: NA Price: $55 Nebbiolo grape. This delivers tones of cassis, tobacco co). This opens with soft, bright fruit nuances and moist earth. What sets this wine apart is its bright 90 of raspberry and crème de cassis and a smooth, polished Demarie 2006 Barbaresco. Aged for two acidity and overall intensity. Vias Imports. —M.L. years in traditional oak casks, this is bright, slight- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA quality of tannins. It finishes with a warming earthy tone 88 of wild mushroom. Sober LLC. —M.L. ly gritty and textured on the finish, offering notes of ripe Punset 2004 Campo Quadro (Barbares- abv: NA Price: $NA fruit, leather, cured meat and tobacco. Pair this with wild turkey or succulent ham. Uva Imports. —M.L. co). From the organic and biodynamic produc- 92 Livio Voghera 2006 Basarin (Barbares- abv: 14% Price: $51 er Punset comes this Barbaresco that needs still ample co). Ripe and plush, this has bold aromas of aging time. It is only now beginning to show its special 90 cherry, blackberry, spice, leather and moist tobacco. Livio Voghera 2007 Barbaresco. Fruity and aromas of pressed violet, tar, cola and spicy dried cur- The mouth brings on a soft, velvety feel that should smoky, this has muddled aromas of ripe fruit and rant. Hold onto this wine five more years at least. Zan- 88 help this wine pair with grilled veal or lamb. Fruit of the exotic spice. The palate is bright and intense with fresh canella Importing Co. —M.L. acidity and firm tannins. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $47 Vines, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $46 abv: 14% Price: $34 Ugo Lequio 2007 Gallina Riserva (Bar- Nada Giuseppe 2007 Riserva (Barbares- Tenuta Carretta 2008 Garassino (Bar- baresco). This opens with sweet aromas of red 92 co). This opens with a blast of espresso bean baresco). There’s a savory, almost toasted berry, vanilla, toasted hazelnut and white pepper. It has 90 88 that lends a modern twist. The oak tones are softened quality to this Barbaresco, resembling hazelnut, spice a feminine touch, with endnotes of blue flower and red by wild berry and licorice notes. The mouthfeel is steely, and crème de cassis. The bouquet is slightly weighed currant. Drink after 2018. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. down by those bold aromas, but the mouthfeel is fresh abv: NA Price: $NA fresh and firm. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA and bright. International Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Beni di Batasiolo 2008 Barbaresco. Here’s Negro Angelo e Figli 2007 Basarin Riser- an elegant and fine Barbaresco with pretty aro- 91 va (Barbaresco). Silky and evolved, this has Villa Ile 2008 Barbaresco. This hearty wine mas of licorice, wild berry, cassis, dried ginger and tar. 90 touches of sour fruit and wild berry on the finish. It also opens with smoky notes of cured meat and bacon Its bouquet is composed of many small aromatic ele- 88 offers layers of licorice, cola, cedar and crushed white backed by touches of candied fruit and dried berry. There ments that are harmonious and intense. Boisset Family pepper that peel back slowly. Nardone Wine. —M.L. seems to be a touch of sweetness in the mouth followed Estates. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA by firmness and freshness. Specialty Cellars. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Produttori del Barbaresco 2007 Pora Orlando Abrigo 2007 Rongalio Meruzza- Riserva (Barbaresco). Tight and streamlined, Tenuta Carretta 2008 Bordino (Barbares- no Riserva (Barbaresco). Aromas of choco- 90 91 this has fresh acidity, polished tannins and pretty aro- co). Simple and linear, this has a mixed berry late and toasted hazelnut open the bouquet of this dark- 87 matic highlights of dried berry, licorice and cured meat. aroma, with notes of licorice, leather and dried tobacco. ly concentrated wine. The palate offers a cherry flavor, It shows an elegant personality. Vias Imports. —M.L. It’s plush, fresh and shows power on the finish. Interna- with plush softness, chewy tannins and flavorful inten- abv: NA Price: $67 tional Wine Imports. —M.L. sity. Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: NA Price: $NA Punset 2007 Riserva (Barbaresco). Like 90 most of Punset’s wines, this Barbaresco should

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 and astringent and the finish is elegantly streamlined. nilla will soften the longer this bold wine ages. It shines 2008 BAROLO Definitely give this wine 5–10 more years in the cellar. bright with inner warmth, offering notes of ripe fruit, Pio Cesare 2008 Barolo. Pio Cesare is on Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. leather and tobacco. Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. 94 a roll producing vintage after vintage of excel- abv: 14% Price: $74 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 lent Barolo. This shows enormous intensity and beauty with perfumed layers of pressed flower, wild berry, va- Grimaldi Bruna 2008 Bricco Ambrogio Claudio Alario 2008 Riva Rocca (Barolo). nilla and spice. It boasts a dark, bold appearance and 92 (Barolo). Bruna Grimaldi and her family pres- 91 A specialist in Barbera and Dolcetto, Claudio tight tannins that are supported by an excellent qual- ent a delicious wine with bright spice and crisp fruit Alario delivers an impressive Barolo with rich pulp, a ity of fruit. Drink after 2018. Maisons Marques & Do- backed by a very distinct note of sweet marzipan. Balsam spicy fruit overtone and bright notes of cola and chopped maines USA. Cellar Selection. —M.L. endnotes of rosemary, ginger and cola give the wine lift herb. There are touches of black licorice and chewy abv: NA Price: $NA and buoyancy on the finish. Premium Brands. —M.L. molasses as well. A Marc de Grazia selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Damilano 2008 Liste (Barolo). For full re- 93 view see page 5. Cellar Selection. Marchesi di Barolo 2008 Coste di Rose Damilano 2008 Cannubi (Barolo). For full abv: 15% Price: $86 92 (Barolo). This shows integration and harmony, 91 review see page 8. with bold notes of dried fruit and cassis behind softer abv: 15% Price: $91 Giacomo Fenocchio 2008 Cannubi tones of spice and licorice. Thanks to its firm tannic struc- 93 (Barolo). From the superelegant Cannubi ture and bright acidity, this should have a long, elegant Marchesi di Barolo 2008 Sarmassa Cru, this wine shows amazing finesse and texture. The aging future. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. 91 (Barolo). Notes of ripe cherry, plum, cola, bar- aromas include blackberry, cherry, black licorice and abv: 14.5% Price: $85 becue smoke and dried rosemary open the bouquet. It dried rosemary. It closes with bright acidity and firm offers chocolate and spice in the mouth, with a touch of tannins. Drink after 2020. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Michele Chiarlo 2008 Tortoniano (Baro- drying astringency on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Selection. —M.L. 92 lo). A beautifully executed wine, this has fine Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55 aromas of cola, red currant, licorice, blue flower and abv: 14.5% Price: $105 moist earth. The texture is long, smooth, silky and el- Gianni Gagliardo 2008 Barolo. This is egant texture. There’s a touch of menthol on the finish. Marziano Abbona 2008 Terlo Ravera 93 beautiful with fragrant tones of rose petal, wild Kobrand. —M.L. 91 (Barolo). Dark and inky, this opens and segues berry, lemon zest, ginger and sage. Its complexity is im- abv: 14% Price: $56 into modern aromas of cinnamon, red berry, toasted ha- pressive and so is the mouthfeel’s polished and fine na- zelnut, tobacco and Spanish cedar. The wine is bold and ture. Age this wine 10 years or more. Enotec Imports, Pertinace 2008 Barolo. An impressive Baro- chewy, with a black pepper flavor and tight tannins. Age Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 92 lo from a tricky vintage, this shows bold aromas 10–15 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar abv: 14.5% Price: $50 of blackberry, prune, plum and cherry liqueur. There’s Selection. —M.L. a plush richness on the palate that softens those tight, abv: NA Price: $75 Beni di Batasiolo 2008 Barolo. For full re- young tannins. MW Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 92 view see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $35 Mauro Sebaste 2008 Prapò (Barolo). This abv: 14.5% Price: $40 91 shows tight lines and pretty aromas of wild cher- Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2008 Costa Grimal- ry, spice, sweet fruit and blue flower. The palate delivers E. Pira e Figli (Chiara Boschis) 2008 Can- 92 di (Barolo). Wild flower, dried jasmine, wild power and elegance. Saranty Imports. —M.L. 92 nubi (Barolo). Cannubi is regarded as perhaps berry, hazelnut and ginger open the beautifully fragrant abv: 14.5% Price: $55 the finest vineyard cru in Barolo, delivering clean and bouquet. The mouthfeel is tight, elegant and silky with elegant wines with power and determination on the fin- polished tannins and fresh menthol overtones. Give this Negretti 2008 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo). ish. This expression stays true to the vineyard, with add- wine 10 more years. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 91 This bold offering delivers nicely integrated red ed touches of soft fruit and spice to the mix. Indigenous abv: NA Price: $NA fruit and spice aromas. The close is polished and dry, Selections. —M.L. showing tight tannins that need 10 years or more to abv: NA Price: $NA Agostino Bosco 2008 Neirane (Barolo). evolve. Delectatio Wines. —M.L. 91 Bright and buoyant, this has notes of rosemary, abv: NA Price: $NA Elvio Cogno 2008 Ravera (Barolo). For cola, wild berry and dried ginger. It is structured but 92 full review see page 7. compact and crisp, with an elegant menthol finish. Tan- Paolo Scavino 2008 Monvigliero (Baro- abv: 14.5% Price: $71 aro River Imports LLC. —M.L. 91 lo). An iconic wine, this shows bold spice and abv: NA Price: $50 smoke flavors that are brushed over a core of dark, lus- Fratelli Alessandria 2008 Monvigliero cious fruit. It’s already soft and plush with a touch of 92 (Barolo). This terrific producer does a great Bel Colle 2008 Barolo. Tight, dry and still as- sweet, sun-ripened cherry on the finish. Banville & job of capturing the magic of Nebbiolo. It is elegant and 91 tringent, this should evolve slowly over the next Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. fine but powerful and bold at the same time. Sweet fruit 10 years. It has a bright ruby color, and it opens with a abv: NA Price: $NA and exotic spice give this wine a playful, modern flair. compact berry note followed by elegant tones of spice Drink after 2018. Villa Italia. Cellar Selection. —M.L. and white truffle. Aventine Hill LLC. —M.L. Parusso 2008 Le Coste Mosconi (Baro- abv: 14% Price: $77 abv: NA Price: $NA 91 lo). Nebbiolo from two vineyard sites (Le Coste and Mosconi) is blended to create a tasty wine with Giacosa Fratelli 2008 Bussia (Barolo). Brezza 2008 Bricco Sarmassa Barolo. notes of cherry, blackberry and leather. It’s silky smooth 92 Enormous aromatic intensity of ripe cherry, 91 This opens with a bright fruit tone backed by on the finish despite its young age. Montecastelli Selec- leather, spice, licorice and moist earth opens the bou- notes of raw spice, fresh ginger, cola and dried herb. tions. —M.L. quet. It’s silky smooth and shows a very fine texture. The palate shows clean, bold intensity thanks to the abv: 14.5% Price: $82 Bedford International. —M.L. firm, polished nature of the tannins. Admiralty Bever- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 age. —M.L. Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2008 Nei Cannubi abv: NA Price: $NA 91 (Barolo). This elegant Barolo shows tight as- Gianni Gagliardo 2008 Serre (Barolo). tringency and firm layers of red fruit, spice, crushed 92 Dark and austere, this has aromas of spice, Castello di Verduno 2008 Massara (Baro- toasted hazelnut and wild berry. The mouthfeel is tight 91 lo). Soft oak tones of sweet cinnamon and va-

WineMag.com | 19 stone and tobacco. It needs a few more years to find Marchesi di Barolo 2008 Cannubi (Baro- Giribaldi 2008 Barolo. A savory, aged qual- harmony. Drink after 2018. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 90 lo). In this vintage, this historic wine shows a 89 ity marks this Barolo, recalling candied fruit, abv: NA Price: $NA different personality with its ripe aromas of blackberry prune, leather and old spice. It is very firm and tannic and raspberry jam. It opens with notes of spice, tobac- with a velvety finish. Pair it with stewed beef or spicy Prunotto 2008 Barolo. This opens with bold co and black pepper. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. marinated pork. Premier Sellers. —M.L. 91 intensity and delicate background tones of dried —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45 cassis, cola, licorice and cedar. It’s a dry but exceedingly abv: 14.5% Price: $105 delicate wine with a fine texture and polished tannins. Le Ginestre 2008 Sotto Castello di No- Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. Parusso 2008 Barolo. This shows ripe fruit 89 vello (Barolo). This opens with sweet cherry abv: 13.5% Price: $53 90 aromas of blackberry and dried raspberry with and bright fruit aromas with drying mineral tones of tal- background tones of spice, leather and black licorice. cum powder and crushed granite. The nose is bright, Terre da Vino 2008 Essenze (Barolo). For There’s a very nice chewy, almost sweet quality, on the and the palate delivers a solid, gritty texture. Mario Pip- 91 full review see page 9. palate. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. pa. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Mirafiore 2008 Paiagallo (Barolo). Dark Terre da Vino 2008 Paesi Tuoi (Barolo). Piazzo Armando 2008 Barolo. The 2008 and concentrated in appearance, this opens 91 Balanced, bright and dense, this powerful offer- vintage was not an easy one but Piazzo Arman- 89 90 with aromas of black cherry and cassis. The bouquet ing delivers a bold, masculine mouthfeel with flavors of do has crafted an elegant and streamlined expression of is generous and intense, but the mouthfeel is dry and dark fruit, spice and bitter chocolate. The finish is dry- Nebbiolo that is redolent of wild berry, chopped herb compact. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. ing and astringent; drink after 2018. International Wine and white licorice. It finishes with tight, dusty tannins. abv: 14% Price: $100 Traders. —M.L. Angelini Wine. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: NA Price: $40 Tenuta Carretta 2008 Cannubi (Barolo). This offers savory aromas of leather, spice, dried Barale Fratelli 2008 Vigna Castellero 89 Pietro Rinaldi 2008 Barolo. This opens with fruit, crème de cassis and cherry cola. It’s intense and (Barolo). Fresh and buoyant, this has bright 90 90 smoky overtones and pulpy richness, with tones bright on the finish, with a heavy, thick quality of fruit. aromas of cherry cough drop, cola, rosemary oil and of cinnamon, crushed clove, blackberry and plum. The International Wine Imports. —M.L. ginger. It is ethereal and clean with a very lively and pol- palate shows accents of fresh cola and chopped mint. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 ished mouthfeel. Wine Emporium. —M.L. Terravino Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $58 abv: NA Price: $34 Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2008 Acclivi (Baro- 88 lo). Nebbiolo already makes lean and compact Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2008 Can- Rocca Felice 2008 Barolo. Fine and el- wines, so the generally light 2008 vintage hasn’t done 90 nubi (Barolo). This opens with aromas of 90 egant, this presents pretty aromas of wild ber- much to add extra pulp or softness. This expression has sweet cherry liqueur, toasted espresso bean, bright for- ry, cola, cedar, white pepper, licorice and wild mush- a bright ruby color, with dry tannins and youthful aro- est fruit, cola and dried herb. It’s fresh and light on the room. There’s a blast of fresh intensity on the close that mas of raw berry. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. finish thanks to the fine and elegant tannins. Michael is framed by the wine’s natural structure. Saranty Im- abv: NA Price: $55 Skurnik Wines. —M.L. ports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $35 G D Vajra 2008 Bricco delle Viole (Baro- 88 lo). This opens with jammy aromas of blackber- Brezza 2008 Cannubi (Barolo). Tight as- Virna Borgogno 2008 Preda Sarmassa ry and strawberry followed by a streamlined feel on the 90 tringency and silky tannins demonstrate that 90 (Barolo). Bold and generous, this has deep ar- palate. It delivers a firm wall of young tannins that need this has ageability. There’s an elegant and dry nature to omatic layers and pulpy dark fruit. The bouquet is redo- more time to age. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. the bouquet that is reflected in the aromas of cassis, cur- lent of dark cherry, cinnamon, cola, ginger and teriyaki abv: NA Price: $NA rant, pressed rose and grated ginger. Admiralty Bever- sauce. Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. age. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA Giuseppe Rinaldi 2008 Brunate Le Coste abv: NA Price: $NA 88 (Barolo). Indian spice and clove notes along Bersano 2008 Nirvasco (Barolo). Delicate, with touches of ripe fruit and crushed granite appear on Bric Cenciurio 2008 Coste di Rose (Baro- 89 streamlined and feminine, this opens with pret- the bouquet. The finish is compact and polished. Vinif- lo). This shows less intensity than displayed in ty aromas of blue flower, cola and forest berry. Fresh era Imports. —M.L. 90 abv: NA Price: $120 past vintages. Instead of brawn and power, this is ele- acidity and a bright touch of white almond mark the fin- gant and polished, with aromas of dried fruit, crushed ish. Vin Divino. —M.L. Le Strette 2008 Bergeisa (Barolo). This stone and dried herb. Italia Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 has a dark, inky appearance and bright aromas abv: NA Price: $NA 88 of red fruit, black cherry, wild mushroom and licorice. Fratelli Casetta 2008 Barolo. Expressive and It tastes succulent and slightly sweet with a rich, chewy Giacomo Fenocchio 2008 Barolo. There’s bright, this has raw fruit and cherry aromas fol- 89 quality of tannin. Wooden Ships. —M.L. a hint of strawberry at the start that soon segues lowed by touches of barbecue and teriyaki. The mouth- 90 abv: NA Price: $NA to savory aromas of cured meat and spice. The ripeness feel is plush, rich and slightly chewy, and the tight tannins translates to the mouth where there’s a touch of cherry. need a few more years to soften. Sober LLC. —M.L. Mario Marengo 2008 Barolo. This opens Age for five more years. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA 88 with black, inky intensity and generous aromas abv: 14% Price: $50 of ripe fruit, raspberry, plum, moist earth and pipe to- Germano Angelo 2008 Vigna Ruè (Baro- bacco. The mouthfeel is earthy and gritty with astrin- Grimaldi Bruna 2008 Camilla (Barolo). Dry 89 lo). This offers savory aromas of old spice and gent tannins on the finish. Hold this for 10–15 years. 90 and sophisticated, this delivers aromas of dried Indian market with bright background nuances of tar, Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. fruit, ginger, spice and cola. There’s a hint of Christmas cola and dried berry fruit. There isn’t much fresh fruit, abv: 14% Price: $45 spice that gives the wine a touch of softness and warm but there is a touch of sweetness on the finish. Tonaro succulence on the finish. Premium Brands. —M.L. River Imports LLC. —M.L. Pietro Rinaldi 2008 Monvigliero (Barolo). abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA 88 Crisp and slender, this offers drying tannins and

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 aromas of fresh berry and white cherry. It shows a sub- gant wine, but it lacks aromatic intensity. The mouthfeel Luciano Sandrone 2007 Le Vigne (Baro- dued and elegant personality overall. Terravino Wine is crisp, thin and polished. Polaner Selections. —M.L. 94 lo). This gorgeous Barolo has a penetrating, Partners. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $69 dark color and generous aromas of black cherry, tar, abv: NA Price: $40 leather, tobacco, spice, black truffle and Spanish cedar. The intensity and power is impressive, and the mouth- Tenuta Carretta 2008 Cascina Ferrero OTHER BAROLO feel is packed tight with ripe fruit flavors and a bold (Barolo). This delivers savory aromas of wet 88 Gianni Voerzio 2007 La Serra (Barolo). A structure. Hold for 10–20 years to let those tannins earth, wild mushroom, ripe fruit and cherry cola. The stunning wine with amazing intensity and a very evolve. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.L. tannic imprinting is very strong and astringent at this 96 distinct personality, this has aromas of ripe fruit, leather, abv: 14.5% Price: $154 stage; give this 5–10 more years. Wine Emporium. tobacco, cola, dried ginger and cigar box. The mouthfeel is —M.L. Marchesi di Barolo 2007 Coste di Rose very long, smooth and velvety. Age this wine 10–15 more abv: 13.5% Price: $40 (Barolo). A lovely wine with a bright and pol- years. Superior Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 94 abv: 14.5% Price: $125 ished bouquet, this delivers loads of dark fruit, licorice, Villa Ile 2008 Barolo. Aromas of toasted nut moist earth, Spanish cedar and white truffle. Its com- 88 and savory spice give this wine a brooding, mas- Luciano Sandrone 2007 Cannubi Bos- plexity and endurance are impressive. Thanks to the culine personality. Ripe notes of cherry liqueur and chis (Barolo). You really can’t beat the beauty tight tannins, this wine should easily evolve over the blackberry preserve lend a soft, succulent mouthfeel. 96 of this Barolo. Rich, enduring and persistent, it offers a next 10–20 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cel- Specialty Cellars. —M.L. long array of blackberry, spice and cola-like aromas. The lar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 mouthfeel is spectacular thanks to a velvety texture that abv: 14.5% Price: $85 is backed by a pretty embroidery of cassis, licorice and Germano Angelo 2008 Mondoca Dar- Michele Chiarlo 2004 Triumviratum spicy ginger flavors. Give this 10–15 more years of ag- di (Barolo). Ripe and concentrated, this Riserva (Barolo). Important and sophisticat- 87 ing. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 94 has a thick, extracted appearance and abundant abv: 14.5% Price: $165 ed, this has aged gracefully over the years. The style is aromas of cherry liqueur and chocolate. There’s a touch bold and modern and you can feel the soft, oak-derived of sweet candied fruit on the finish. Tanaro River Im- Elvio Cogno 2007 Cascina Nuova (Baro- tannins and the complimentary fruit tannins that give ports LLC. —M.L. lo). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selec- this wine incredible structure and staying power. The abv: NA Price: $60 95 tion. bouquet is redolent of ripe fruit, leather, spice, black abv: 14.5% Price: $50 cherry and pressed violet. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. Giacomo Grimaldi 2008 Le Coste (Baro- —M.L. lo). This delivers dark, masculine concentration 87 Massolino 2007 Margheria (Barolo). Mas- abv: 14% Price: $117 backed by firm astringency and dusty tannins. Rather solino delivers a beautiful Barolo with delicate, than fresh fruit, the opens with aromas of crème de cas- 95 silky strokes of small berry, white pepper, asphalt, tar, Bersano 2005 Riserva (Barolo). This is an sis, cherry liqueur and dark prune. A Marc de Grazia smoke and cured meat. On the palate, it shows, power, 93 austere and masculine wine with tight tannins selection. —M.L. smooth tannins and excellent length. Pair this with roast and bold aromatic intensity. There’s a touch of ripe fruit, abv: NA Price: $NA pork and baked prune. Domaine Select Wine Estates. even a jam note, that gives the wine a soft, succulent Cellar Selection. —M.L. mouthfeel. The concentration and the quality of tan- Giacomo Grimaldi 2008 Sotto Castello di abv: 14.5% Price: $95 nins is impressive, so give this ample time to age. Vin 87 Novello (Barolo). This wine opens with aro- Divino. —M.L. mas of leather, old spice and candied fruit that seem Massolino 2001 Vigna Rionda Riserva Di- abv: 14.5% Price: $90 past their prime. There’s a sour note on the finish. A eci Anni (Barolo). An iconic wine from the Marc de Grazia selection. —M.L. 95 2001 vintage, this shows tertiary aromas of dried fruit, Giulia Negri 2007 La Tartufaia (Barolo). abv: NA Price: $NA cassis, ginger, cola and licorice. But the wine really ex- 93 This new-comer Barolo shows beautiful inten- cels on the palate where it shows the magic intensity of sity and an inky dark appearance. The aromas are soft Le Strette 2008 Bergera Pezzole (Baro- aged Nebbiolo grapes with long, silky tannins. Domaine and yielding with sweet tones of wild berry and exotic lo). Bold and chewy, this has slightly over- 87 Select Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. spice woven between leather, tobacco and licorice. Bar- done notes of ripe berry, spice and moist pipe tobacco. abv: 14% Price: $250 ton Brescome. —M.L. There’s a tiny touch of jammy strawberry or raspberry as abv: 14.5% Price: $45 well. Wooden Ships. —M.L. Michele Chiarlo 2006 Cerequio Riserva abv: NA Price: $NA 95 (Barolo). An exciting flagship wine from one Michele Chiarlo 2007 Tortoniano (Baro- of the best producers in Piedmont, this is dark, inky and 93 lo). The softness of the 2007 vintage is already Montaribaldi 2008 Borzoni (Barolo). This penetrating. It offers beautifully intense aromas of cas- apparent in this wine. Generous aromas of ripe fruit, edition of Barolo Borzoni shows jammy aromas 87 sis, dried forest berry, ginger, cola, leather, and cedar. black cherry, leather and tobacco follow suit, and the of cherry preserves and raspberry. You’ll also detect a On the palate, it shows an incredibly silky and long qual- wine is plush and velvety on the close. Hold for 10–15 note of greenness that comes across as dried sage or ol- ity. Hold for 10–20 years. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. more years. Kobrand. —M.L. ive. The mouthfeel is astringent and tight. Zancanella —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $56 Importing Co. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $103 abv: NA Price: $NA Negretti 2007 Mirau (Barolo). This is gor- Gianfranco Alessandria 2007 Barolo. 93 geous with a delicate but intense bouquet of Natale Verga 2008 Barolo. This offers raw This is gorgeous, showing the sophistication and pressed rose, wet earth, licorice cola and dried berry aromas of black cherry, plum, prune and black- 94 87 complexity. It’s delicate and bright, but it shows power fruit. The mouthfeel is incredibly long and silky. Delec- berry jelly. The mouthfeel is smooth, rich and chewy. and determination at the same time. The aromatic in- tatio Wines. —M.L. Jandell Selections. —M.L. tensity is very impressive, and the bouquet recalls notes abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 of cassis, leather, licorice, cola and dried ginger. Hold Viberti 2006 San Pietro Riserva (Barolo). for 10 years or more. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selec- Francesco Rinaldi 2008 Cannubbio 93 This is beautiful with bright aromas of wild ber- (Barolo). This edition of Barolo Cannubbio is tion. —M.L. 86 abv: 14% Price: $45 ry, dried raspberry, citrus zest, ginger and cherry cola. A underwhelming compared to years past. It’s a nice, ele- smoky touch of tobacco or toasted nut is nicely integrat-

WineMag.com | 21 ed within the smooth and silky texture. Hold for 10–20 fect is that of power, complexity and balance. Delectatio with a succulent quality of tannins. Frederick Wildman years. Domace Vino. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Wines. —M.L. & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $90

Beni di Batasiolo 2007 Vigneto Cerequio Negretti 2005 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo). Marchesi di Barolo 2006 Tradizione 92 (Barolo). A delicate firmness opens the bou- 92 This shows some of the heat of the 2005 vin- 91 (Barolo). From the elegant and bright 2006 quet of this elegant Barolo, with delicate aromas of wild tage. It is bold and black, with enduring aromas of cher- vintage, this shows aromas of spice, red fruit, leather, berry, cola and licorice that come together as one. The ry, prune, leather, spice and licorice. The mouthfeel is cola and cedar. The palate is attractive, showing tight, palate delivers intensity and staying power. Drink after smooth and rich. Delectatio Wines. —M.L. polished tannins and lively fruit. Vintelligence. —M.L. 2018. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 14% Price: $55 abv: 15% Price: $75 Viberti 2006 La Volta Riserva (Barolo). Mauro Veglio 2007 Barolo. Thick and mas- Beni di Batasiolo 2007 Vigneto Corda 92 This shows beautiful touches of cured meat, 91 culine this has savory aromas of pipe tobacco, 92 della Briccolina (Barolo). Soft, rich and en- dried berry, ginger, rosemary oil and cigar box. It is soft candied fruit, leather, cola and tar. There’s soft succu- during, this should pair with braised beef or cornish and succulent on the finish, but the solid tannins hold it lence in the mouth thanks to the ripeness of the fruit, hen with black truffle. It offers soft aromas of ripe fruit, together very nicely. Domace Vino. —M.L. but the solid tannins still need time to soften. Drink af- leather, spice and licorice powder. Drink after 2018. Vin abv: 14% Price: $NA ter 2018. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. Divino. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $83 Beni di Batasiolo 2007 Vigneto Bofani 91 (Barolo). This shows clean and polished aro- Mauro Veglio 2006 Vigneto Gattera Beni di Batasiolo 2006 Vigneto Cerequio mas of crème de cassis, wild berry, cola, ginger and 91 (Barolo). Tar, black licorice, pressed red rose 92 (Barolo). Beautifully intense and elegant, this dried mint. The mouthfeel is linear and bright but also and crème de cassis notes open the bouquet. It is aging opens with fine aromas of spice, dried fruit, cola, tar and firm. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. elegantly, sporting a garnet color with an amber high- ground licorice. It delivers a long, silky sensation in the abv: 15% Price: $75 light. The mouthfeel is intense and bright, with smooth, mouth. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. silky tannins. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Beni di Batasiolo 2006 Vigneto Boscare- abv: 14% Price: $NA 91 to (Barolo). Aged in large oak casks, this shows Beni di Batasiolo 2005 Riserva (Barolo). natural intensity and purity that is evident its quality of Pugnane 2004 Vigna Villero (Barolo). This 92 The 2005 vintage was a hot one, and this offers fruit and elegant nature. Aromas include ginger, forest 91 vineyard-designate wine has evolved nicely in aromas of ripe fruit and savory spice, and the intensity berry, white truffle and cola. The tannins are fine and the bottle, producing aromas of dried berry, cherry cola, is not overdone by any means. In fact, it shows elegance silky. Vin Divino. —M.L. white licorice and cedar wood. It’s silky and fine, with and restraint, with a thick, succulent quality to the firm abv: 14.5% Price: $75 more drinking years ahead. Panebianco. —M.L. tannins. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $42 abv: 13.5% Price: $49 Beni di Batasiolo 2006 Vigneto Corda 91 della Briccolina (Barolo). This elegant vine- Tenimenti Ca’ Bianca 2007 Barolo. This Ca’ Viola 2006 Sotto Castello (Barolo). yard-designate Barolo opens with deep and penetrating 91 delivers a very lively and plush quality of ripe 92 For full review see page 7. aromas of cured meat, candied fruit, hazelnut, licorice blackberry, leather, tobacco, cola and cigar box. The abv: 14.5% Price: $59 and pressed blue flower. It shows intensity and alcoholic mouthfeel is bold, soft and velvety. Keep this wine in power, with silky, but firm tannins on the finish. Boisset your cellar for five years or more. Frederick Wildman Elvio Cogno 2006 Bricco Pernice (Baro- Family Estates. —M.L. & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. 92 lo). This opens with savory aromas of cured abv: 14.5% Price: $83 abv: 14% Price: $56 meat and leather with background tones of ripe fruit and black cherry. It is smooth and sophisticated on the Costa Di Bussia 2007 Barolo. For full re- Beni di Batasiolo 2007 Barolo. This has a palate with a fine texture and a fruit-forward finish. Vias 91 view see page 8. 90 touch of ripe fruit, with pretty nuances of cher- Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ry, wild berry and cassis. It also delivers austere tones abv: 14.5% Price: $NA of smoked spice, leather and tar with an attractive full- Inalto 2007 Barolo. You can taste the sun- ness to the otherwise structured finish. Boisset Family Mauro Veglio 2007 Rocche dell’ 91 shine embedded in this darkly concentrated Estates. —M.L. 92 Annunziata (Barolo). Savory spice and can- Barolo. Ripe fruit aromas of blackberry and cherry li- abv: 15% Price: $43 died fruit notes emerge on the bouquet of this sophis- queur open the bouquet and segue to notes of leather, ticated wine. It shows tight, silky tannins and delivers a spice and black licorice. The mouthfeel is plump, rich Bersano 2007 Nirvasco (Barolo). Plump brightly intense finish with notes of dried ginger, cedar and well structured. Atlas Imports. —M.L. 90 and food friendly, this has a rich fruit flavor and licorice. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $90 backed by notes of spice, balsam, toasted almond and abv: 14.5% Price: $75 leather. It shows pleasant, restrained elegance. Vin Di- Marchesi di Barolo 2007 Barolo. There’s vino. —M.L. Mauro Veglio 2007 Vigneto Gattera 91 a meaty, succulent quality to this Barolo, lend- abv: 14.5% Price: $33 92 (Barolo). Here’s an elegant Barolo that shows ing it a brooding, masculine personality. Aromas include slightly aged notes of candied fruit, leather, light spice smoked bacon, ripe fruit and teriyaki sauce. The finish Inalto 2006 Barolo. There’s a subdued but and dried pipe tobacco. The mouthfeel is finely tex- is intense, fresh and firm. Frederick Wildman & Sons, 90 firm quality to this wine that also shows aromas tured and dense with a long, solid quality of tannins. Ltd. —M.L. of ripe fruit, cured meat, blackberry and cigar box. The Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55 palate shows bright freshness and velvety tannins. Atlas abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Imports. —M.L. Marchesi di Barolo 2007 Barolo di Barolo abv: 14% Price: $50 Negretti 2006 Barolo. Bright, generous and 91 (Barolo). This austere Barolo opens with a ripe 92 intense, this offers shadings of spice and leath- note of prune and blackberry followed by sweet spice Luca Bosio 2007 Barolo. Luca Bosio’s el- er around dried berry and cola aromas. The overall ef- and moist pipe tobacco. The wine is chewy and rich 90 egant Barolo opens with pretty aromas of cur- rant, dried lavender, blackberry and crisp forest berry.

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 The structure is solid and firm, and the tannins have a Villadoria 2000 Riserva (Barolo). Garnet in Mauro Veglio 2010 Barbera d’Alba. This dry, silky quality. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. 88 color with a brown highlight, this has aromas of 86 opens with a touch of cherry backed by notes abv: 14% Price: $42 cured meat, leather, tobacco, tar and dried berry. The of exotic spice, leather and moist earth. It has a plush, tannins are silky and long, and there is enough natural succulent mouthfeel and crisp acidity. Wine Warehouse Massolino 2007 Barolo. This shows ripe acidity to keep the wine alive for many more years. Lau- Imports. —M.L. 90 fruit aromas of cherry and blackberry backed by ber Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA leather, smoke and teriyaki notes. Thick and smooth, it abv: 14% Price: $45 has a velvety, fruit-driven finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. DOLCETTO D’ALBA abv: 14.5% Price: $57 BARBERA D’ALBA Veglio 2010 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba. Gianni Voerzio 2009 Ciabot della Luna This opens with aromas of candied fruit and Mauro Sebaste 2007 Monvigliero (Baro- 86 (Barbera d’Alba). This delivers a bold nose pressed blue flower. The mouthfeel is fresh and capped lo). This opens with cherry and candied blue- 90 90 of ripe blackberry. The mouthfeel is plush, thick and by crisp acidity. Pair it with cheesy pizza or appetizers. berry aromas. It presents a thick, succulent quality that slightly on the sweet side. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. Best Buy. —M.L. should pair well with braised beef or grilled lamb. Sa- abv: 13% Price: $34 abv: 13% Price: $11 ranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $49 Costa Di Bussia 2009 Campo del Gatto Beni di Batasiolo 2010 Bricco Vergne (Barbera d’Alba). This oak-aged Barbera has (Dolcetto d’Alba). Offering savory aromas of Beni di Batasiolo 2006 Vigneto Bofani 89 85 a darkly concentrated ruby color, with savory aromas of raw fruit and Spanish cedar, this also has background (Barolo). Aged in large oak casks, this offers 89 cured bacon and barbecue spice. A sour cherry note and tones of button mushroom and moist earth. The finish steady aromas of wild berry, smoke, cola, licorice and bright acidity appear on the rich finish. Siena Imports. is bright. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. pressed blue flower. It’s subtle with a delicate, feminine —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $22 personality; the tannins already show a silky, smooth abv: 14% Price: $25 side. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. Mauro Veglio 2010 Dolcetto d’Alba. This abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Elvio Cogno 2009 Bricco dei Merli (Bar- 85 opens with a fruit-driven bouquet of cherry and 89 bera d’Alba). Saturated and rich, this has en- raspberry, with a red rose note. It shows a soft but slight- Demarie 2006 Barolo. A genuine expression ticing aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry and spice. The ly textured feel, with smoky endnotes of old spice and of Nebbiolo, this has subdued aromas of dried 89 mouthfeel is soft and plush, but there’s a fresh touch of leather. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. fruit, cola and cherry. The tannins show fine texture and acidity on the finish. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA a long, silky quality. Uva Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $23 abv: 14% Price: $57 Costa Di Bussia 2009 Barbera d’Alba. BARBERA D’ASTI Parusso 2005 Riserva Argento (Barolo). Here’s a clean expression of Barbera with sweet 88 Bersano 2009 Costalunga (Barbera 89 Made from Nebbiolo fruit from a hot vintage, cherry and blackberry aromas followed by notes of cin- d’Asti). Blackberry, tobacco and spice flavors this shows chewy fruit aromas of blackberry preserve namon and crushed clove. The grape’s naturally sharp 88 give this an appropriate air of sophistication. It should and candied fruit. Background tones of leather and to- acidity has been tamed thanks to 12 months of oak ag- pair with pizza or pasta. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. bacco lend a soft, velvety feel to the finish. Montecas- ing. Siena Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 telli Selections. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $72 Montalbera 2008 Lequilibrio (Barbera Pecchenino 2008 Quass (Barbera d’Asti). Lequilibrio, which means “balance,” Veglio 2007 Barolo. This savory wine opens d’Alba). This opens with savory tones of cured 87 88 shows equal billing to its dark fruit and exotic spice 89 with aromas of cured meat, cedar, tobacco and meat and Spanish cedar followed by notes of blackberry components. It is aged for eight months in oak, render- black cherry. The tannins show a silky but firm struc- and maraschino. The mouthfeel is sweet, succulent and ing a soft, rich expression of the usually very acidic Bar- ture. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. rich. Vias Imports. —M.L. bera grape. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $46 abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $28 Viberti 2007 Buon Padre (Barolo). Vint- Cortese Giuseppe 2010 Barbera d’Alba. Ricossa 2010 Antica Casa (Barbera 89 ner Giovanni Viberti has crafted a generous and Aged only in stainless steel, this is fresh, present- 87 d’Asti). Here’s a simple and slightly tart expres- dense Barolo that opens with inky concentration and in- ing a solid wall of cherry and blackberry aromas. There’s 86 sion of Barbera that should pair well with cheesy piz- tense aromas of blackberry preserve and cherry liqueur. a touch of tobacco or moist earth as well, and the wine za or pasta with cream sauce. The wine’s natural acid- Background shadings of leather, tobacco and cured is plush, rich and bright on the close. Winebow. —M.L. ity and bright berry flavor should cut through the fat in meat round out the palate. Domace Vino. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $NA those foods. Touchstone Wines. —M.L. Demarie 2007 Barbera d’Alba Superiore. abv: 13% Price: $14 Ricossa 2007 Barolo. There’s a subdued, easy Rich and inviting, this has bold aromas of mar- 87 Cantine Volpi 2009 Barbera d’Asti. This 88 quality to the bouquet, encompassing aromas of aschino, blackberry jam, plum and exotic spice. The opens with savory aromas of cured meat and wild berry, ginger, cola and leather. The finish is smooth, mouthfeel is plush and rich, with a bright spot of acidity 84 dried fruit, and there’s a spicy accent on the finish. This fine and slightly chewy. Touchstone Wines. —M.L. on the finish. Uva Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 should pair well with cheesy pasta or pizza. Bedford In- ternational. —M.L. Ricossa 2006 Barolo. This opens with sub- Beni di Batasiolo 2009 Sovrana (Barbera abv: 12.5% Price: $10 88 dued aromas of spice, blue flower, wild berry 86 d’Alba). This offers savory aromas of cured and raspberry. It is clean with the characteristic firm- meat, bacon and cigar tobacco that slowly segue to ripe ness and freshness typical of Nebbiolo. Touchstone notes of prune and blackberry preserve. It’s heavy and DOLCETTO DI DOGLIANI Wines. —M.L. thick on the finish. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. Anna Maria Abbona 2009 Maioli (Dogliani). abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $22 91 Incredibly soft and velvety, this has loads of choc-

WineMag.com | 23 olate, spice and black cherry flavors. The finish is bold, quet. The 30% Barbera adds to the soft finish. T. Ed- well extracted and soft. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. LANGHE ward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Gaja 2009 Sorì San Lorenzo (Langhe). abv: 14.5% Price: $51 96 There’s always something magical about Gaja’s Pecchenino 2009 Sirì d’Jermu (Dogli- Sorì San Lorenzo. It’s the intensity and fullness of the Mauro Veglio 2009 Angelo Nebbiolo 91 ani). This single-vineyard expression opens wine that penetrates to the back of the palate and of- 90 (Langhe). Very fresh, fine and elegant, this has with enormous purity and intensity. The aromas recall fers many long minutes of persistency on the finish. The savory aromas of cured meat, rusty earth and white truf- blackberry, spice, leather, tobacco and Spanish cedar. bouquet is redolent of black fruit, leather, spice, tar, lic- fle followed by notes of dried fruit and currant. Wine The finish is rich, well structured and longlasting. Vias orice and dried herb. Terlato Wines International. Cel- Warehouse Imports. —M.L. Imports. —M.L. lar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Serradenari 2008 Renoir (Langhe). A Pecchenino 2008 Bricco Botti (Dogliani). Gaja 2009 Costa Russi (Langhe). Costa 89 blend of 60% Pinot Noir with Barbera and Neb- 91 This is a single-vineyard expression of Dolcetto 95 Russi presents a dark wall of ripe fruit and an biolo, this pays homage to the elegance of Burgundy. Of that offers a dark, inky appearance and rich aromas of exotic spice shading that give momentum and power to course it shows an Italian flair with sun-ripened cher- dark chocolate, spice, black cherry, blackberry pie and the finish. There are also notes of plum, dark chocolate, ry and blackberry aromas followed by lingering licorice a touch of dark licorice. The finish is extra smooth and tobacco, licorice and tar. The quality of the tannins is and spice accents. Barton Brescome. Editors’ Choice. opulent. Vias Imports. —M.L. firm and polished; this should evolve over many years to —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA come. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $18 —M.L. Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2009 Vigna Tecc abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Costa Di Bussia 2008 Arcaplà (Langhe). 91 (Dogliani). Elegant and ageworthy, this shows 88 Aged for nine months in French oak, this north- dry, firm tannins and bright aromas of wild berry, tobac- Gaja 2009 Sorì Tildin (Langhe). Elegant, ern Italian blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo delivers sour co and spice. Pair this with roast pork or lamb. Empson 95 fine and characterized by deep complexity, this notes of cherry, wild berry, pomegranate juice and some (USA) Ltd. —M.L. celebrated bottling from Angelo Gaja offers dark nu- distant spice. The wine’s fresh acidity will make your abv: 14% Price: $25 ances of plum, chocolate and dried tobacco, with deli- mouth pucker. Siena Imports. —M.L. cate accents of ground licorice and herb. The long fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Francesco Boschis 2010 Pianezzo (Dol- ish is powerful and generous. Drink after 2020. Terlato 90 cetto di Dogliani). This has a dark, inky color, Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Gianfranco Alessandria 2009 Nebbiolo with rich aromas of black fruit, spice, leather and soft abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 88 (Langhe). This is a fresh and full expression of chocolate. The mouthfeel is smooth and luscious. Mi- Nebbiolo—aged 18 months in oak—that shows sweet chael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Gaja 2008 Conteisa (Langhe). A tiny per- aromas of black cherry and dried raspberry. Firm tan- abv: 13% Price: $17 95 centage of Barbera grapes accounts for why this nins give the wine a deep sensation of structure. Saranty famous wine is not labeled as a Barolo. The Nebbiolo is Imports. —M.L. Pecchenino 2010 San Luigi (Dolcetto di sourced from the Cerequio Cru and offers long aromas abv: 14% Price: $23 90 Dogliani). A blend of Dolcetto grapes from of dried fruit, licorice, tar, tobacco, bitter chocolate and different prized vineyard sites in Dogliani, this has a cola. The finish is extremely fine and polished. Drink Anna Maria Abbona 2010 Dolcetto (Lang- definite note of sophistication that comes across as after 2025. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selec- 87 he). This is a fun, easy-going Dolcetto that spice, ripe fruit and tobacco. On the finish, the wine is tion. —M.L. should well pair with pizza or meat cold cuts. Wild ber- smooth, textured and long lasting. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA ry, spice and dark fruit notes open the bouquet, and abv: 13% Price: $NA the mouthfeel is crisp and bright. Masciarelli Wine Co. Gaja 2008 Sperss (Langhe). Gaja’s Sperss —M.L. Pecchenino 2007 Bricco Botti (Dogliani). 95 was once a Barolo but now occupies a catego- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 89 Dark and well-concentrated, this opens with in- ry all its own as a Nebbiolo from the Langhe region— tense aromas of chocolate, spice and cherry liqueur. It the producer famously declassified his top wines. This Demarie 2009 Nebbiolo (Langhe). This is superthick and dense, with salient alcohol. Vias Im- shows extreme elegance and sophistication with fine nu- 85 shows clean aromas of blue flower, wild berry ports. —M.L. ances of forest fruit, spice, dried tobacco, licorice and and cola, with a touch of moist earth or tobacco. The abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Spanish cedar. The finish is long, polished and bright. close is simple and slightly sour. Uva Imports. —M.L. Drink after 2020. Terlato Wines International. Cellar abv: 13.5% Price: $15 San Fereolo 2010 Valdibà (Dolcetto di Selection. —M.L. Dogliani). 89 This opens with notes of pulpy red abv: 14.5% Price: $NA fruit and cherry spread over a dark, velvety consistency. ROERO There’s a spicy touch of crushed white pepper on the Gaja 2008 Darmagi (Langhe). Based on Cascina Cà Rossa 2009 Audinaggio finish that underscores the wine’s overall structure and 93 Cabernet Sauvignon, this has a dark, penetrat- (Roero). This shows great intensity, with a freshness. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. 90 ing color, with aromas of ripe blackberry and exotic bright ruby color and a vibrant cherry aroma. The wine abv: 13.5% Price: $16 spice. It shows firm, velvety tannins that should con- is fleshy and thick with layers of smoke, prune and dark tinue to evolve over the years. Terlato Wines Interna- berry notes. Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. Cascina Corte Barosi-Battaglia 2009 Pi- tional. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $42 rochetta Vecchie Vigne (Dogliani). 88 Made abv: 14.5% Price: $NA with organically-farmed fruit, this dark offering has Monchiero Carbone 2009 Sru (Roero). smooth aromas of leather, tobacco, black cherry and Mauro Veglio 2009 L’insieme (Langhe). Impressive and modern in style, this has big, blackberry pie. There’s a bright point of acidity that ren- 90 91 A blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet bold extraction. It is deep, plush and ripe with pretty ders a lively sensation on the finish. USA Wine Imports. Sauvignon, this is deeply concentrated, offering pretty notes of red fruit, spice and black licorice. It’s smooth —M.L. aromas of cherry, spice and cola. The 40% Nebbiolo is and silky in texture. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 definitely noticeable—thanks to the wine’s delicate bou- abv: NA Price: $NA

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Cascina Val del Prete 2009 Bricco Medi- quet followed by a plush, rich finish. Left Bank Wine meat and candied fruit. It finishes with bright acidity 88 ca (Roero). This opens with intense aromas of Company. —M.L. and long notes of leather and tobacco. Nicola Angiuli. cherry liqueur and black licorice. It shows great purity abv: NA Price: $NA —M.L. and freshness with subtle but firm tannins on the finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. Malvirà 2009 Roero. This opens with slightly abv: NA Price: $48 85 green aromas of eucalyptus and mint with gin- Demarie 2007 Nebbiolo d’Alba. Light, sim- ger and sour berry in the background. There’s a strong 86 ple and streamlined, this shows the easy side of Malabaila 2009 Bric Volta (Roero). Ruby menthol note on the close. Indigenous Selections. this otherwise austere and sophisticated noble Italian 88 colored—this opens with a sweet cherry aro- —M.L. grape. There’s a touch of bright sourness on the close. ma followed by light notes of vanilla and marzipan. It abv: 14% Price: $30 Uva Imports. —M.L. should pair well with meat or pasta dishes thanks to the abv: 13.5% Price: $23 already silky and smooth nature of its tannins. A Marc de Grazia selection. —M.L. MONFERRATO Cantine Volpi 2010 Barbera (Colli Torto- abv: NA Price: $NA Montalbera 2008 Selezione Limpronta 85 nesi). A ripe, almost raisiny expression of Bar- (Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato). This bera, this opens sun-drenched aromas of candied fruit Matteo Correggia 2009 Roero. Stream- 89 opens with sweet notes of dried strawberry and Christ- and prune. Saranty Imports. —M.L. lined and bright, this offers the aromatic inten- 88 mas spice backed by touches of bitter chocolate and abv: 12% Price: $NA sity and complexity one should expect from Roero. Aro- toasted hazelnut. The finish has elements of both sweet- mas include chopped mint, cola and wild berry. A Marc Torraccia del Piantavigna 2010 Che ness and sourness. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —M.L. l’inse Nebbiolo (Colline Novaresi). de Grazia selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $62 84 This abv: NA Price: $NA youthful Nebbiolo-based wine opens with a thin, garnet Forti del Vento 2009 Alto Fhrà (Monfer- color, offering sour aromas of berry and white cherry. Ponchione Maurizio 2009 Monfrini (Roe- rato). There are touches of milk chocolate and Nicola Angiuli. —M.L. ro). This opens has a bold appearance with dark 87 88 raw cherry at the start, which slowly segue into notes of abv: 12.5% Price: $NA extraction. The aromas that follow are reminiscent of spice and blackberry. The mouthfeel is rich and plush ripe cherry, cinnamon spice, plum and pulpy black fruit. Veglio NV Baric (Piedmont). with a velvety soft texture. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. This is a bright Round and soft, this closes with firm grittiness. BelVino —M.L. 83 food-friendly blend of 80% Nebbiolo and 20% LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16 Dolcetto. It delivers aromas of mature fruit, blue flow- abv: NA Price: $15 er and button mushroom. Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. Montalbera 2010 La Tradizione (Ru- —M.L. Cantina del Nebbiolo 2009 Roero. This ché di Castagnole Monferrato). This abv: 13% Price: $12 opens with bright aromas of raspberry and 87 87 easy Ruché opens with herbal notes of dried tea and toasted almond. There’s a nicely etched quality that chamomile. There’s a touch of sweet spice on the gives it a firm, solid mouthfeel. Lettieri & Co.. —M.L. palate linked to the ripe cherry flavor. Bonhomie Wine BRACHETTO abv: NA Price: $NA Imports. —M.L. Borgo Maragliano 2011 Brachetto (Pied- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Cascina Chicco 2009 Montespinato 85 mont). Truly enjoyable, this has loads of fizzy (Roero). Ripe aromas of strawberry jam and bubbles and sweet tones of strawberry and raspberry 87 Montalbera 2010 Laccento (Ruché di blackberry preserve come with notes of spice and fresh tart. This sweet, sparkling red wine is made with low Castagnole Monferrato). Aged only in stain- tobacco in the background. The slender mouthfeel 87 atmospheric pressure, giving it a soft, creamy feel. USA less steel, this fragrant wine opens with floral notes of is followed by a slightly sour finish. Vinifera Imports. Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. pressed violet and rose perfume. The palate is tight, —M.L. abv: 6% Price: $19 sharp and fresh, but what really sets this wine apart is abv: NA Price: $NA the delicate and feminine nature of its bouquet. Bonho- La Gironda di Galandrino 2011 Brachetto mie Wine Imports. —M.L. Cornarea 2009 Cornarea (Roero). The 85 d’Acqui. A ruby-colored sparkling dessert wine abv: 14% Price: $30 87 bouquet offers intensity and character, with from northern Italy, Brachetto d’Acqui enjoys a long subtle accents of crème de cassis and toasted almond. history rooted in Italian tradition, and it can be paired Tenuta La Marchesa 2009 Mon- Tesori Wines. —M.L. with sweet foods and savory ones alike. This is soft and ferrato. This blend of Albarossa, Bar- abv: 13% Price: $30 87 round with notes of raspberry and candied cherry on bera and Merlot opens with plush density and the close. AP Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. ripe aromas of black cherry and blackberry. It’s an Giovanni Almondo 2009 Bric Valdiana abv: 5.5% Price: $8 easy-drinking wine with a slight touch of sweetness on (Roero). The aromas are tight and nervous 87 the finish. Winebow. —M.L. with notes of wild berry, ginger and licorice. It is firmly Tenimenti Ca’ Bianca 2011 Brachetto abv: 13% Price: $15 astringent, so give it a few more years to help soften the 84 d’Acqui. Fresh and vibrant, this has bright aro- tannins. Wine Warehouse Imports. —M.L. mas of raspberry and wild strawberry. The aromas are abv: NA Price: $32 simple and so is the mouthfeel, offering a crisp berry nu- OTHER RED WINES ance followed by a candy-like sweetness and a creamy, Negro Angelo e Figli 2009 Prachiosso Torraccia del Piantavigna 2006 Gattina- frothy finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. 87 (Roero). This easygoing wine has a red fruit 88 ra. This has a slightly aged appearance and ter- abv: 5.5% Price: $16 note with a soft shading of spice. The mouthfeel is soft, tiary aromas of candied berry, leather, tobacco and cola. plush and just short of sweet. Nardone Wine. —M.L. The tannins are firm and tight; it still has an aging future Duchessa Lia NV Brachetto d’Acqui. A abv: NA Price: $NA ahead. Nicola Angiuli. —M.L. 83 rosé-colored sweet sparkling wine, this should abv: 13.5% Price: $38 pair with fruit-based desserts or salty foods like sliced Cascina del Pozzo 2009 Montegalletto salami appetizers. Bright raspberry, bitter almond and 86 (Roero). Vintner Gianmario Marchisio pro- Torraccia del Piantavigna 2006 Ghemme. cranberry aromas describe the bouquet. It’s a simple duces a thickly extracted and rich Nebbiolo Roero with 87 This Ghemma—a blend of 90% Nebbiolo and wine with a whiff of volatility on the finish. Italian Wine a dark ruby color and deep aromas of ripe berry and 10% Vespolina aged for two years in oak—has a dark Growers. —M.L. Indian spice. It has a pungent, loud quality to the bou- garnet color and savory aromas of moist earth, cured abv: 6.5% Price: $19

WineMag.com | 25 WHITE WINES of toast and fresh fruit, with a firm, dry structure. For Château Tuilerie Pagès 2011 Entre- long-term aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 86 Deux-Mers. This is an attractive herbaceous La Battistina 2011 Nuovo Quadro (Gavi). abv: NA Price: $NA wine that’s light and tangy. Its gooseberry character 88 Gavi is a wonderful white wine to pair with el- dominates, lending acidity and a lively, crisp finish. The egant seafood or light vegetable dishes. This expres- Château Latour-Martillac 2009 Pessac- wine’s blue bottle is memorable. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. sion shows a drying mineral note backed by fresh cit- 93 Léognan. Already delicious, this wine shows abv: 12% Price: $14 rus, white peach and honeydew melon. The mouthfeel its wood aging with such finesse, while letting its elegant is silky and clean. Vias Imports. —M.L. white-fruit flavor come through. It has an herbaceous abv: 13% Price: $NA edge, rounded out with a more ripe fruit character. This BORDEAUX BLANC is meant for aging. —R.V. Château Thieuley 2010 Cuvée Francis abv: NA Price: $NA 90 Courselle (Bordeaux Blanc). Wood ag- SPARKLING WINES ing has given this a spicy feel. It’s rich, full bodied and Château Smith Haut-Lafitte 2009 Pessac- textured with a citrus tang. The texture is creamy, with Villa Sparina NV Brut (Piedmont). From Léognan. Full in the mouth, this is a rich wine 93 pear and grapefruit notes. Age for another two years. 87 the Gavi area of northern Italy, this light spar- with its yellow fruit and buried acidity. It is laden with Vintus LLC. —R.V. kler opens with dry aromas of pressed flower and citrus, wood and ripe fruit, and is dense and cushioned. A nut- abv: 13% Price: $NA with slightly softer tones of peach and melon to follow meg flavor shows through slowly to add to the exotic, on the palate. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. opulent aftertaste. —R.V. Château Ducasse 2010 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: NA Price: $NA 88 A grassy, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc-domi- nated wine, this has fresh grapefruit and lime flavors, Veglio 2010 Re Della Notte Extra Dry Château Bouscaut 2009 Pessac-Léog- with an orange zest and mineral edge. This is delicious 85 (Piedmont). This bright sparkler is redolent of nan. A ripe, spicy wine, this balances its rich 92 and ready to drink now. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. yellow flower, peach, citrus and baked bread. There’s tropical fruits with tense acidity and wood toast. It’s full —R.V. also a slightly pungent note of apple skin or apricot that and rounded yet finely tangy and taut. With this struc- abv: 12% Price: $16 gives the bouquet lift and momentum. Bacco Wine & ture, the wine should age over many years. —R.V. Spirit, LLC. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $15 Chateau Suau 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This is a soft, crisp, lightly herbaceous wine. It Château Carbonnieux 2009 Pessac- 86 has fruity peach and pear flavors that are touched with Léognan. This is full and rounded initially, 92 citrus. The fruit dances easily on the palate. Screwcap. ROSÉ then the more textured notes of green fruit skin and Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. La Scolca 2009 RosaChiara Rosé (Pied- wood spice come through. It has an attractively ripe abv: 12.5% Price: $13 84 mont). Fresh and bright, this has an easy bou- feel while remaining structured. At the same time, the wine is developing fast and will be ready to drink in 3–4 quet of wild flower and small berry notes, with a drying Les Hauts de Lagarde 2011 Bordeaux years. —R.V. mineral touch. Pair this with Thai spring rolls. Freder- Blanc. Fruity and herbaceous, this is full of abv: NA Price: $NA 86 ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. pear, green apple and citrus flavors. It’s easy and crisp, abv: 12% Price: $NA with the acidity giving an attractive final taste. Natural Château Olivier 2009 Pessac-Léognan. Merchants LLC. —R.V. Rounded, but with just the right amount of her- 92 abv: 12% Price: $13 WHITE BORDEAUX baceousness to give a vivid fruity character. The wine is rich, sun-soaked while still retaining its sense of balance Augey 2010 Bordeaux Blanc. This is a wine and elegance. —R.V. PESSAC-LÉOGNAN that brings out a soft, tropical character allied to abv: NA Price: $NA 85 Domaine de Chevalier 2009 Pessac- a citrus and a herbaceous element. It’s open, attractive and soft, and it’s ready to drink. Prestige Wine Group. Léognan. An impeccable wine, this is so finely Château Couhins 2009 Pessac-Léognan. 95 Best Buy. —R.V. balanced between its rich fruits and structure. With its A food friendly wine, with its finely balanced 91 abv: 12% Price: $9 seamless character, it offers both fine acidity, green and herb and green tea flavors along with pear and red ap- white fruit and an undertow of wood aging. This is a ple fruits. The wine is tangy, very Sauvignon in charac- Château de Seguin 2010 Sauvignon de wine for long-term aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ter, packed with a lime and pink grapefruit aftertaste. Seguin (Bordeaux Blanc). This has a light abv: NA Price: $NA —R.V. 85 herbaceous character followed by notes of warm yellow abv: NA Price: $NA Château de Fieuzal 2009 Pessac-Léog- fruit, kiwi and bright acidity. It’s crisp, fresh and ready to drink. Plume Ridge Negociants. —R.V. nan. Full of tropical fruit flavors, this is round- Château Couhins-Lurton 2009 Pessac- 94 abv: 12% Price: $NA ed, ripe and very accessible. At the same time, its struc- 90 Léognan. There is a farmyard quality to the ture shows through in the tang of green apple skin, aromas, but the wine itself shows a finely structured judicious wood aging and taut aftertaste. —R.V. character that offers a linear, herbaceous view. The wine OTHER BORDEAUX abv: NA Price: $NA has considerable aging potential, bringing out an entic- ing citrus character. —R.V. Barton & Guestier 2011 Thomas Barton Château Malartic-Lagraviere 2009 Pes- abv: NA Price: $NA 87 Réserve (Graves). Wood aging has produced 94 sac-Léognan. Big, ripe and delicious, this is a well-rounded wine. It has a citrus flavor to go with the packed with spice and sweet apricot fruits. It’s full and more tropical fruit, a good zing of acidity and a crisp af- opulent, very much a wine of 2009, yet it retains its ENTRE-DEUX-MERS tertaste. Drink now, or age over the next year. Barton & sense of balance and structure. —R.V. Guestier USA. —R.V. Château Bellevue 2010 Entre-Deux- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $18 86 Mers. Crisp and smooth, this has refreshing lemon and pear flavors. Dry, fruity and ready to drink, it Château Pape-Clement 2009 Pessac- Château des Tourtes 2009 Sauvignon is bright and crisp. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. Léognan. This is a finely balanced wine, com- Blanc (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Ripe 94 abv: 13% Price: $NA 86 bining an herbaceous flavor with apricot and sweet pear. tropical fruits dominate this warm, soft Sauvignon The whole is a delicious wine that brings together notes Blanc. The wine has a herbaceous element reinforced

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 with acidity and a peach flavor. Ready to drink, but it more. Superb Wine International LLC. Cellar Selec- Horeau-Beylot 2009 Château la Fleur could age for another year. Hand Picked Selections. tion. —R.V. 88 (Lussac Saint-Émilion). Even though it is —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 weighty, very full and dense, the wine has a fine bal- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ance, with acidity that cuts through the richness. Saran- Château Haut Gravet 2008 Saint-Émilion. ty Imports. —R.V. Château du Barrailh 2010 Cuvée Collec- 89 Very tannic and concentrated, this is a dry wine abv: 14.5% Price: $17 85 tion Prestige (Graves). Herbaceous and ar- with a chunky structure and a dark, firm feel. Plum skin omatic, this is a crisp, green-fruit- and citrus-flavored and black currant notes are behind the scenes; this wine Château Cadet-Bon 2004 Saint-Émilion. wine. Grapefruit and green apple dominate the tex- needs at least three more years of aging. MHW, Ltd. 86 With light fruits and a dry texture, this mature ture with its zesty character. Not for aging. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. wine is very ready to drink. It is light in texture and the —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA bitter chocolate tannins are just starting to dominate. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Drink now. Château Cadet Bon. —R.V. Château la Jorine 2009 Lussac Saint- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 89 Émilion. This is a complex wine that shows ROSÉ sweet berry fruits, ripe tannins and new wood flavors. Duval & Blanchet 2010 Saint-Émilion. Ba- It is dense and chewy while also being full of rich fruits. Château Thieuley 2011 Bordeaux Rosé. 86 con aromas and very dense tannins give this a This is a wine for aging, although its smooth charac- lean, rather than fruity, character. It does have some 86 Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a soft, ter suggests it will age relatively quickly. Total Wine & density along with a more juicy black-fruit finish, al- rounded rosé, with red fruits right to the fore. With its More. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. though high amounts of toast also show strongly. Good attractive acidity, it is dry and very food friendly. Ready abv: 13.5% Price: $18 to drink. Vintus LLC. —R.V. Company Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Horeau-Beylot 2010 Château la Fleur abv: 14% Price: $30 (Montagne-St.-Émilion). Firm and austere, 89 Horeau-Beylot 2009 Château Joly (Saint- Chateau Suau 2011 Bordeaux Rosé. Pro- this shows the structured side of the vintage. The wine Émilion). This is a well-balanced wine from the 85 duced from Cabernet Sauvignon, this aromatic, has weight and rich fruit, giving it the promise of good 86 flat lands of Saint-Émilion, close to the Dordogne river. crisp rosé has refreshing red-currant acidity and a light, aging. Give this at least two years to soften. Saranty Im- lively character. Screwcap. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. ports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. It is fruity and already approachable, with soft tannins abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $17 and black currant fruit. Ready to drink in a year. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Duval & Blanchet 2010 Les Notes Rosées Barton & Guestier 2010 Thomas Barton abv: 12.5% Price: $21 84 (Bordeaux Rosé). This is a perfumed wine, 88 Réserve (Saint-Émilion). Some wood aging with attractive acidity and a light, fruity body. The wine gives this Merlot-dominated wine a full structure, with Château Piron 2009 Montagne-St.-Émil- is lively and soft; the raspberry acidity shows through on attractive tannins and juicy black fruits. It is ripe, full- 85 ion. This is a soft wine, with attractive red-cur- the finish. Good Company Wines. —R.V. bodied and very approachable now. Barton & Guestier rant fruit and open, smoky tannins. It’s well balanced abv: 12% Price: $19 USA. —R.V. between the fruit, tannins and acidity, which lends a abv: 14% Price: $20 crisp aftertaste. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 RED BORDEAUX Château la Jorine 2010 Lussac Saint- 88 Émilion. Rich red fruits along with a stalky ele- Château Corbin 2004 XX de Corbin SAINT ÉMILION ment give this wine weight and structure. It’s on the dry 84 (Saint-Émilion). An oddly balanced wine, side, with the fruit tannins and wood notes still domi- showing both light texture and maturity. Spice, beetroot Château Ambe Tour Pourret 2009 Saint- nant. Good acidity offers a bright aftertaste. Total Wine flavors and tense acidity surface, along with a dry after- 91 Émilion. While this is packed with ripe fruit, it & More. —R.V. taste. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. is balanced with a dense tannic underlay and judicious abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $52 wood aging. With this structure, the wine should age for several years. Superb Wine International LLC. —R.V. Château La Fleur Plaisance 2009 Mon- abv: 13.5% Price: $32 88 tagne-St.-Émilion. This shows the rich densi- PAUILLAC ty of Merlot in 2009, giving a solid structure, with dried Château Béhèré Courtin 2010 Pauillac. Château Haut-Goujon 2010 La Fleur du fruit and red berry flavors and a concentrated line of A wine that is both fruity and almost approach- 90 Barril (Montagne-St.-Émilion). This is a lim- tannins. Big and dense, this is ready to age. Prestige 92 able now, it is packed with the great structure of Pauillac ited production wine—a rich and firmly tannic. It has Wine Group. —R.V. weight and density, backed plum skin and blackberry abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s rich and firmly tannic, layer- notes. It’s all wrapped in a concentrated, structured ing plums and blackberries within a dark texture. This package. Age for at least 4 years. MHW, Ltd. Cellar Château Tourans 2006 Cuvée Terre should be aged for at least five years. Serge Doré Selec- Selection. —R.V. 88 Blanche (Saint-Émilion). Big and densely tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 tannic, this wine’s fruit is still firmly buried in the struc- abv: 13% Price: $95 ture. It has wood, spice and ripe plum notes. With its Château Lanbersac 2009 Puisseguin concentrated texture, it is still capable of aging. Serge Château Béhèré Courtin 2006 Pauillac. 90 Saint-Émilion. For full review see page 10. Doré Selections. —R.V. 90 This small Pauillac property, close to Château Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $48 Pontet-Canet, has produced an impressive 2006, struc- abv: 14% Price: $18 tured with firm tannins under the black currant fruit. Horeau-Beylot 2010 Château la Fleur Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Château Lanbersac 2009 Cuvée Vieilles 88 Poitou (Lussac Saint-Émilion). Smooth abv: 12.5% Price: $70 90 Vignes (Puisseguin Saint-Émilion). The and rich, this has superripe Merlot. It has soft, jammy dusty tannins dominate this firm and dry wine. With red-fruit flavors and tannins that are enveloped by the Château Béhèré Courtin 2007 Pauillac. its new wood aging and its concentration, it is complex opulent texture. The tannins should allow the wine to 89 This shows the lean character that comes from and dense. The ripe black fruit offers power and sweet- age over 3–6 years. Saranty Imports. —R.V. the vintage. But it’s balanced with juicy black-fruit fla- ness. The wine is likely to age well over five years or abv: 14.5% Price: $NA vors and soft tannins that are now maturing. This is

WineMag.com | 27 attractrive for a light, ready-to-drink wine. Serge Doré Château de Fieuzal 2009 Pessac-Léog- HAUT-MÉDOC Selections. —R.V. 93 nan. So opulent and open, this is a seductively abv: 12.5% Price: $80 ripe wine, beautifully layering its sweet red-berry fruits, Château Bellegrave du Poujeau 2009 complex ripe tannins and rounded structure. It is still 90 Haut-Médoc. This is a well structured, rich Château Haut de la Bécade 2007 Pauil- Bordeaux in its texture, but it is certainly very New wine. It has solid, ripe red-berry and black-currant 86 lac. Attractive mint aromas lead to a wine that World in its rich density. —R.V. fruits that dominate the firmer tannins, giving a juicy, is now mature. It’s black currant fruit is layered with abv: NA Price: $NA generous feel. Well worth aging for 3–5 years. Cellar spice, herb and a dry structure that is not going to soft- Selection. —R.V. en. Ready to drink now in a firm, austere way. Serge Château Olivier 2009 Pessac-Léognan. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Doré Selections. —R.V. 93 This has smooth, rich fruit, with sweet ber- abv: 12.5% Price: $90 ries, ripe tannins and strong layers of wood. The wine Château Bellevue Canterrane 2010 Haut- is powerful; the stalky and bitter chocolate edge con- 89 Médoc. While youthful tannins play an im- trasts the sweet, ripe fruit. This is meant for long-term portant part in this dense wine, so does the black fruit PESSAC-LÉOGNAN aging. —R.V. character. It’s balanced, with the wood toast adding ex- Château Haut-Bailly 2009 Pessac-Léog- abv: NA Price: $NA tra complexity. Ripe, while structured, it will age over several years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. nan. Smooth and opulent, this immediately ap- 95 Château Bouscaut 2009 Pessac-Léog- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 peals with its generous fruit and texture that feels like nan. Impressive dusty tannins offer a struc- velvet. The structure sits under the seductive surface, 92 tured counterpoint to the deliciously ripe fruits and Château Mille-Roses 2009 Haut-Médoc. with a chocolate wood flavor, fruit tannins and density. sweet berry flavors that stand out in this wine. It has Packed with black plum and blackberry fruits, Cellar Selection. 89 Age for over 10 years at least. —R.V. this is a firm yet ripe wine. It has wood, smoke and spice abv: NA Price: $NA great concentration as well, a powerhouse of firm struc- ture and gorgeous fruit. —R.V. flavors that complement the fruit and tannins. Age for three years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Château Pape-Clement 2009 Pessac- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $65 Léognan. This is a richly structured wine with 95 Château Latour-Martillac 2009 Pessac- beautiful perfumes emanating from the bouquet. The Léognan. Ripe, perfumed wine that has an im- Château Bellegrave du Poujeau 2006 rich, stalky texture is balanced by the flavors of dark 91 mediately appealing richness. It feels opaque in its den- 88 Haut-Médoc. Now maturing, this retains its chocolate and black currant jelly. It’s big, ripe and full sity, layering tannins upon fruit with a luxurious, velvet red fruits; its bright texture and acidity go with the firm of potential, a fine balance between opulence and age- feel. The result is a wine that is almost drinkable now, tannins and dark structure. It is balanced and ready to worthiness. Bernard Magrez USA. Cellar Selection. but which will age. —R.V. drink. —R.V. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $53 abv: NA Price: $NA Château de France 2006 Pessac-Léog- Château Mille-Roses 2008 Haut-Médoc. Domaine de Chevalier 2009 Pessac- nan. Mint and dark black fruit aromas lead 87 While on the lean side, this does show juicy Léognan. Dominating aromas of smoky new 90 acidity from the black currant fruit. The tannins are in- 95 to an elegant wine. It has solid tannins balanced by an wood follow through to the toasty flavor that covers the tegrated into the fruit while still keeping their dry char- open fruity character. The acids, tannins and touches of fruit at this stage. But, like all 2009s, this is a rich wine acter. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. spice promise aging for at least another 4–5 years. Cel- that will balance out and show all of its opulence. That abv: 13% Price: $62 lar Selection. —R.V. said, it will likely always be a firm, ageworthy wine, with abv: 13% Price: $NA the dark tannins always in evidence. Cellar Selection. Les Hauts de Tousquiron 2009 Cuvée —R.V. Lucie (Haut-Médoc). This is a smooth, rich, Domaine de la Solitude 2008 Pessac- 87 abv: NA Price: $NA wood-aged wine. It has wood aromas, but on the palate Léognan. Owned by a religious communi- 89 the wood has softened the black currant fruit, creating ty and produced by Domaine de Chevalier, this has Château Malartic-Lagraviere 2009 Pes- a wine that’s elegant and full-bodied, with herbal acid- weight, ripe blackberry fruit and a smooth surface. Un- sac-Léognan. Almost sweet in its richness, ity on the finish. Age for 1–2 years. Stephen Augustus 94 der its dusty tannins, there is attractive acidity and a this is a deliciously fruity wine. The structure and tan- Imports. —R.V. bright aftertaste. —R.V. nins are almost buried among all of the velvety fruits, abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ripe berry flavors and layered wood notes. That said, it still has complexity and richness that promise aging, Château Bellegrave du Poujeau 2007 with the final acidity giving some brightness. —R.V. GRAVES 85 Haut-Médoc. With red berry fruitiness, this is abv: NA Price: $NA an attractive wine. It has a light texture, some juicy acid- Château du Barrailh 2008 Cuvée Collec- ity and it’s ready to drink. —R.V. Château Smith Haut-Lafitte 2009 Pessac- 87 tion Prestige (Graves). This is a maturing, abv: 12.5% Price: $51 94 Léognan. Very dense and firm, this has power- wood-aged wine, with smooth plum fruit and tannins, ful tannins as well as a blackberry jam flavor. The wine is now maturing well. Through aging, a more tarry char- complex, full of both dark tannins and the richest fruits, acter is revealed, with some smokiness, while maintain- MÉDOC layered with notes of herb, spice and a concentrated ing a ripe, wood-laden feel. Ready to drink now. MHW, Château Amour 2009 Médoc. This is a ripe structure. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. 88 wine offering red currants and plums, with a abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $23 firm tannic character. With its fresh acidity and fruiti- ness, this is ready to drink but could age a few more Château Carbonnieux 2009 Pessac- Château de Janicon 2010 Graves. The years. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. 93 Léognan. Ripe and solid, this has dense tan- 85 wine seems lean, austere and minerally in char- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA nins and a superstructure of opulent red-berry and acter. It has stalky black-currant fruits, firm tannins and black currant fruits. The wine is layered with coffee, forward acids. It should age over 2–3 years, but it will Château Beauvillage 2009 Médoc. Ripe wood-aging influence and a firm finish. It’s big and has always be on the severe side. Serge Doré Selections. 88 and juicy, this is packed with black currant fruit great potential. —R.V. —R.V. and lined with soft, open tannins. The wine has a dry abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $30 core, yet this is surrounded by attractive smoky fruit and

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 bright acidity. Ready to drink now. Serge Doré Selec- LALANDE DE POMEROL Château Grand Bireau 2010 Bordeaux. tions. —R.V. 86 With wood and black currant aromas, this is a abv: 14% Price: $30 Domaine Pont de Guestres 2008 Lalande soft, ripe and ready to drink wine. It has a rich texture, 89 de Pomerol. A ripe, balanced wine this is ma- with a smokiness and black fruits that are smoothed Château la Tour de By 2009 Médoc. The turing well. It has a black plum note to go with the un- by wood and lifted by acidity. Serge Doré Selections. 88 wine has the richness of the vintage while re- derlying tannins. Rich juicy flavors join notes of spice —R.V. taining a more stalky black-currant character. The and wood, leading onto the firm finish. Age for another abv: 13.5% Price: $30 smoky tannins and fruit are integrated, creating a wine two years. Grape News Importing. —R.V. that will be ready to drink in the next two years. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Château Guichot 2010 Bordeaux. With a abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 86 fresh black-currant flavor, this has a fine struc- Château au Pont de Guitres 2009 Lal- ture and dense tannins. The wood aging gave the wine Duval & Blanchet 2009 Les Notes Par- 88 ande de Pomerol. Packed with superripe a tight and firmly dry character, with great final acidity. 88 fumées (Médoc). This is a well-balanced, Merlot, this is rich and round. It has wood flavors and Jandell Selections. —R.V. smoky and aromatic wine that has a good balance be- sweet, juicy black-plum fruits that are balanced by abv: 13.5% Price: $NA tween dry tannins and black currant fruits. With its acid- firm tannins. The finish shows some bitterness from ity and touch of minerality, it should age over the next over-extraction. Good Company Wines. —R.V. Barton & Guestier 2010 Thomas Barton 2–3 years. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 85 Réserve (Bordeaux). With some structure to abv: 14% Price: $24 go with the blackberry fruit, this is fruity and still light- Château Haut-Goujon 2008 La Rose bodied. With soft tannins and acidity, it is ready to drink. Barton & Guestier 2008 Thomas Barton 88 Saint-Vincent (Lalande de Pomerol). This Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. 87 Réserve Privé (Médoc). While the aromas is structured and firm, with its dry tannins prominent abv: 13.5% Price: $12 speak of wood aging, the fruit comes through on the along with blackberry and black cherry acidity. The palate. It is firm, full and dry, and the fruity acidity and wine does have density, a dusty texture and the chance Cave du Marmandais 2011 Château Cam- fresh black currant flavor backs up the structure. Barton to further age. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. 85 pot Lafont (Bordeaux). Light and fruity, this & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $42 wine’s berry flavor dominates the gentle tannins, while abv: 13% Price: $40 the bright acidity adds lift. Drink this in the next two Château Haut-Goujon 2009 Lalande de years. Imperial Beverage. Best Buy. —R.V. Les Hauts de Tousquiron 2008 Médoc. 87 Pomerol. This is a very dark wine, rich in dried abv: 13% Price: $9 87 This has good balance among its ripe blackber- fruits, plums and dense tannins. The wood aging is an ry and red-plum flavors and its firm core. It’s solid and important element here, giving a firm and dry charac- Château Lande de Bertin 2009 Bor- chunky while also offering crisp, taut acidity. The after- ter. With its richness comes weight and concentration. A 85 deaux. This is a fruity wine with a black currant taste, with a touch of smokiness, is attractive. Stephen bitter edge suggests overextraction. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. flavor. As a contrast, the tannins offer a denser side, cre- Augustus Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26 ating a food-friendly wine with fine dryness and a smoky abv: 13% Price: $NA flavor. Europvin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Château Rollan de By 2009 La Demoi- BORDEAUX 86 selle de By (Médoc). Soft and smoky, this has Château Tuilerie Pagès 2010 Bordeaux. richness, a tarry character, good acidity and a touch of Château Thieuley 2009 Réserve Francis 85 This has tannins, black currant fruit and a solid chocolate. There is a spice note and acidity on the finish. 89 Courselle (Bordeaux). Firm and tannic, this structure. It should soften in two years, resulting in an Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. balances its structural components with rich red-berry attractive, juicy and fruity wine. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA fruits. The wine is dense, the ripe fruit bursts in the abv: 13% Price: $14 mouth. It does need aging and would be worth keeping Barton & Guestier 2010 Thomas Barton for 3–4 years. Vintus LLC. —R.V. Duval & Blanchet 2010 Les Notes Fruit- 85 Réserve (Médoc). On the lean side, this is abv: 13% Price: $NA 85 ées (Bordeaux). Firmly structured, this has a a tannic and structured wine. The fruit is stalky, with dry core that’s solidly based on smoky tannins. The fruit a black currant note and tight acidity, creating a wine Château du Prieur 2010 Cuvée Réserve is holding back, although in a few months the blackber- that needs 1–2 years to really soften. Barton & Guestier 87 (Bordeaux). With soft tannins, this wine has a ry flavor should surface. The finish retains the dry, firm USA. —R.V. full, fleshy character that’s laced with acidity. Black cur- character of the wine. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 rant fruits and only hints of dryness suggest it is ready abv: 12.5% Price: $19 to drink. Wine Warehouse Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Calvet 2009 Réserve de l’Estey (Médoc). abv: 14% Price: $12 Duval & Blanchet 2009 Les Notes Fruit- 85 This has intense black-currant fruit, with stalky 85 ées (Bordeaux). Solid, chunky and dense, tannins and a bone dry, firm core. It’s a finely structured Château Thieuley 2010 Bordeaux. This is a this shows a rich character based around dark tannins. wine, packed with tight fruit and acidity. Drink now. 87 dry, structured wine, showing its tannins on the It has a ripe black-plum flavor and juicy acidity on the Plume Ridge Negociants. —R.V. surface. It has a firm texture, with layers of wood, black finish. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA currant fruit and a touch of spice. Acidity cuts through abv: 12.5% Price: $18 the fruit, suggesting it needs 2–3 years’ aging. Vintus Les Hauts de Tousquiron 2007 Cuvée Lu- LLC. —R.V. Les Caves Joseph 2010 Bordeaux. Black 85 cie (Médoc). Dominated by black currant and abv: 13% Price: $NA 85 currant fruit lends the nose a fruity aroma. The smoke flavors, this is a light, fruity wine that’s ready to flavors are reflected in the soft, dry tannins, stalky fruit, drink. The tannins are still firm and not likely to soften. Horeau-Beylot 2010 Château Bellevue black fruit acidity and smoky finish. Plume Ridge Ne- Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. 87 (Bordeaux). Fruit and spice come together in gociants. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA this young wine. It is structured with a core of dry tan- abv: 13% Price: $NA nins along with black currant fruit and a flavor of new wood. Finely made, this should be ready to drink in six Les Portes de Bordeaux 2009 Bordeaux. months. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 84 This is a softly ripe, blackberry-flavored wine, abv: 14% Price: $11 with its tannins lending a firm core. Along with the

WineMag.com | 29 stalky fruit, the wine is dry with acidity. Drink now. Lat- Château Bois de Rolland 2009 Bordeaux Château Sainte Marie 2010 Le Moulin itude Wines, Inc. —R.V. 85 Supérieur. This is smooth and lush, with its 89 (Côtes de Bordeaux). Structured and tan- abv: 13% Price: $NA tannins softened by ripe berry fruit and a strong pres- nic, this is a rich, full-bodied wine. It has ripe plum and ence of spicy wood. It has weight, density and, on the damson fruits that dominate the firm tannins to give a Château les Terrasses de Bouey 2009 finish, fruitiness. —R.V. juicy wine that’s full of fruitiness with the structure to 83 Bordeaux. A tight wine—this is on the lean abv: 14% Price: $NA match. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. side, but shows an attractive red-currant flavor and soft abv: 13.5% Price: $20 tannins. This is not meant for aging. Cutting Edge Se- Château Bois Redon 2010 Bordeaux Su- lections. —R.V. 85 périeur. Initially austere, this wine is driven by Château Thieuley 2009 Clos Sainte-Anne abv: 13.5% Price: $10 notes of bitter chocolate and lean fruit. The fruit weight 89 Merlot (Côtes de Bordeaux). From the promises some attractive aging, but for the present, it is southern slopes of Bordeaux’s Entre-deux-Mers, this is Les Hauts de Lagarde 2010 Bordeaux. firm, dry and solidly tannic. Total Wine & More.Best rounded, fleshy and packed with plum and smoke fla- 83 This has a tight, severe character, with black Buy. —R.V. vors. It has the vintage’s richness and the soft tannins, currant fruit and a touch of green bell pepper. It’s stalky abv: 13.5% Price: $10 making it already drinkable. Vintus LLC. —R.V. and structured, with a lean feeling. Natural Merchants abv: 13.5% Price: $NA LLC. —R.V. Château Plaisance 2007 Bordeaux Su- abv: 13% Price: $13 85 périeur. Lean and rather severe, this is now Château Moulin la Clotte 2009 Castillon showing maturity. It has a leathery texture, with just a 87 Côtes de Bordeaux. Soft, warm and smoky hint of juicy fruit in the background. Kysela Père et Fils. wine, this has a finely layered wood flavor to go with BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR —R.V. the black currant and red berry fruits. It’s dry, yet warm Château Plaisance 2008 Bordeaux Su- abv: 13% Price: $18 and ripe, finishing with freshness. Superb Wine Inter- périeur. This is a firmly textured wine, with national LLC. —R.V. 89 Kirkland Signature 2009 Bordeaux Su- tannins pushing through the black currant fruit. It is abv: 13.5% Price: $16 périeur. A chunky wine, this has flavors of dark beginning to show a balanced structure and a smooth, 85 plum skin and blackberry that merge with the firm tan- Château Tertre de Viaud 2010 Côtes de smoky character that’s leavened by acidity and juicy nic core. It has a bell pepper character and a juicy, fruity Bourg. Structured and firm with balancing red fruit. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. 87 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 aftertaste. Misa Imports. —R.V. berry fruit, this is a solid, chunky wine that reflects the abv: 13% Price: $NA concentration of the vintage. It has weight, solid tannins Château de Cornemps 2010 Cuvée Pres- and hints of pepper and spice. Age for 2–3 years. Serge 88 tige (Bordeaux Supérieur). A dark-colored Doré Selections. —R.V. wine, this is layered with a wood note that shows strong- CÔTES DE BORDEAUX abv: 14% Price: $25 ly along with the mint flavor. Rich, well structured and Chateau Suau 2009 L’Artolie (Cadillac Château la Valade 2008 Premieres Côtes concentrated, this has black jelly fruit, and is meant for Côtes de Bordeaux). Fermented in large 91 de Blaye. Fruity and juicy, this has soft tannins drinking in two years. Total Wine & More. —R.V. barrels to preserve the fruit, this is a dense wine, full of 85 and an open, gentle texture. It has red currant fruit that abv: 13.5% Price: $14 the ripe red-berry and black-plum flavor that’s layered gives acidity, with only a touch of dry tannins on the fin- with mint and new wood notes. Juicy, rich and concen- ish. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Abbaye de Saint-Ferme 2009 Vieilles trated, this is worth aging for at least five years. Kysela abv: 13% Price: $NA 87 Vignes (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe, round, Père et Fils. Cellar Selection. —R.V. soft and juicy, this is already attractive and drinkable. It abv: 13.5% Price: $60 has firm tannins, yet these are cushioned by the sweet black fruits and the lift from the acids. Drink now, or Château Haut Mazerolles 2010 Cuvée OTHER BORDEAUX hold this for another year. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 90 Prestige (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This Château Arnaud 2010 Saint-Estèphe. abv: 14% Price: $25 is a concentrated wine that is structured and packed 90 Powerful and dense, this has a great balance with red fruits and solid tannins. It feels weighty and between the ripe blackberry fruit and the dark, smoky Château de Cornemps 2009 Cuvée Pres- rich; the juicy character is balanced by a firm, dry tex- concentrated structure. Along with its equilibrium 87 tige (Bordeaux Supérieur). This is rounded, ture. For aging over several years. Serge Doré Selec- comes crisp acidity, lending freshness to this solid, firm with its ripe fruit dominating the new wood influence. tions. —R.V. wine. Age for at least four years. Serge Doré Selections. It is dense and smoothly rich, with blackberry and bitter abv: 14% Price: $25 Cellar Selection. —R.V. coffee flavors. Age for three to four years. Total Wine & abv: 13.5% Price: $55 More. —R.V. Château d’Aiguilhe 2006 Seigneurs abv: 13.5% Price: $14 89 d’Aiguilhe (Côtes de Castillon). A wine Château du Glana 2009 Terre du Lion that is now showing some maturity, the second wine of 90 (Saint-Julien). Densely tannic and rich, this Château Haut-Sorillon 2009 Bordeaux Château d’Aiguilhe is made by the same team as Châ- is full of ripe chocolate and blackberry fruit. It is dark, 87 Supérieur. Profiting from the richness of teau Canon la Gaffelière in Saint-Emilion. It has hints brooding and dense—a great success for the second 2009, this is a smooth blackberry-flavored wine. It has of spice and wood, with great acidity that shows further wine of Château du Glana. Serge Doré Selections. ripe fruit, a center of dry tannin and juicy acidity. The potential. Dourthe USA. —R.V. —R.V. aftertaste is firm with some dryness. Latitude Wines, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $64 Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Château Lamour 2009 Réserve (Castil- Château Grand Tayac 2010 Margaux. 89 lon Côtes de Bordeaux). Big, brooding and 90 Grapes from 40-year-old vines make up the Château Plaisance 2006 Bordeaux Su- ripe, this is packed with a blackberry flavor that is laced bulk of this wine, giving it structure, concentration 87 périeur. A firm, dry textured wine, with tan- through the bitter chocolate and mocha notes and dark and weight. Densely wrought, its black fruit is still sup- nins that are now losing more fruity character. It needs tannins. It is powerful and concentrated, smooth and pressed by wood and fruit tannins. The balance will at least an hour in a decanter to show its more balanced dark tasting. Superb Wine International LLC. —R.V. come, giving an elegant wine in 3–4 years. Serge Doré nature. Ready to drink. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20 Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $80

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Château Graves de Pez 2010 Saint-Es- the acidity and black currant fruit remains dominant. At migrated into a taut texture, spiced with parsley and bay 90 tèphe. The wine comes from a small, seven- the end, the wine is dry, firm. Good Company Wines. leaf. It’s mature yet still zesty. David Milligan Selections. acre property. This 2010 is structured with a mineral —R.V. —R.V. character and chewy tannins. It is well balanced; the abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $32 blackberry fruit synchronizes well with the dry texture and fresh acidity. Age for 4–5 years. Serge Doré Selec- Château Mazeris Bellevue 2007 Canon- Henri Bourgeois 2009 La Demoiselle de tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 87 Fronsac. This light bodied wine is now ma- 91 Bourgeois (Pouilly-Fumé). Dominated by abv: 13.5% Price: $55 ture. It has smoky meat and red currant flavors that are minerality, this is a flinty and steel textured wine. It has moulded into a gentle tannic framework, with a soft and some richness while remaining straight and narrow. Château Haut Bellevue 2010 Moulis-en- elegant aftertaste. Laird & Company. —R.V. With its structured character, it will need to age for over 90 Médoc. Already the structure is beginning to abv: 13.5% Price: $NA several years. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. make way for ripe plum and damson fruits. With its firm abv: 13% Price: $36 structure, this is a complex and concentrated wine that Horeau-Beylot 2010 Château Tour Canon will need to age over at least four years. Serge Doré Se- 87 (Canon-Fronsac). Firm and tannic, this has a Joseph Mellot 2007 La Grande Cuvée des lections. —R.V. juicy fruit flavor buried under the dry top layer. It has a 91 Edvins (Pouilly-Fumé). This Pouilly Fumé abv: 13.5% Price: $60 strong structure that will soften over several years of ag- works well, balancing the ripe yellow and pineapple ing, yielding a richly juicy wine. Saranty Imports. —R.V. fruits with toast and spice notes to give a rounded, richly Château la Gravière Grand Poujeaux abv: 13% Price: $30 textured wine. It is now mature, while retaining a fruity 2009 Moulis-en-Médoc. This is concentrat- 89 character on the finish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. ed, rich, full of blackberry fruits and layered with just abv: 12.5% Price: $NA the right balance of tannins. Chocolate and sweet fruits DESSERT WINES are given point by toast and an edge of spice. Serge Château Suau 2009 Cadillac. Michel Redde et Fils 2010 La Moynerie Doré Selections. —R.V. With its apri- (Pouilly-Fumé). Redde’s top wine, named af- abv: 13% Price: $60 88 cot and honey flavors, this is an attractive, fruity 91 dessert wine. There is some dryness from botrytis to ter the winery, is rounded, rich and full in the mouth. Château Tour du Moulin 2009 Les Terres add complexity. At the end, the wine offers a delicious Flavors of toast and ripe pear combine with tangy acid- 89 Rouges Merlot (Fronsac). Ripe and fruity, fruit salad finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. ity, producing a complex, intensely fruity wine that this has sweet black-currant and plum fruits, a layer of abv: 13% Price: $27/500 ml should age for two years. Kobrand. —R.V. rounded tannins and a juicy, full-in-the-mouth charac- abv: 13% Price: $NA ter. It will be ready to drink in a year. Serge Doré Selec- Barton & Guestier 2009 Thomas Bar- tions. —R.V. 88 ton Réserve (Sauternes). A rich wine that Pascal Jolivet 2010 Indigène (Pouilly-Fu- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 strikes a good balance among tropical fruits, acids and 91 mé). An impressive, ripe wine, this is packed with a dry botrytis core. It shows notes of spice and honey, baked apple and grapefruit flavors, with a taut, mineral Barton & Guestier 2010 Thomas Barton with apricot juice acidity. This is ready to drink. Barton texture. It needs at least a year to round out. Frederick 88 Réserve (Margaux). A softly textured wine, & Guestier USA. —R.V. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. this has richness coming from black and red berry fruits. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Wood and juiciness combine well in this attractive wine that will be ready to drink in a few months. Barton & Duval & Blanchet 2009 Les Notes Dorées Château de Tracy 2010 Pouilly-Fumé. An Guestier USA. —R.V. 84 (Sauternes). Light in style, this honeyed, 90 intensely herbal and ageworthy wine, this has abv: 13.5% Price: $37 fruity Sauternes has orange zest and marmalade flavors tight acidity and a very fresh gooseberry character. With its and crisp acidity. Ready to drink now. Good Company intensity of flavor, it has something in common with New Château Cap Léon Veyrin 2009 Listrac- Wines. —R.V. World Sauvignon Blanc—except this has terroir-driven 88 Médoc. This is a very rich wine with black fruit abv: 14% Price: $52 minerality on the finish. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. and bitter coffee flavors and dense tannins. Its weight abv: 13.5% Price: $38 is almost too much for the firm structure that is under- neath. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. LOIRE WHITES Domaine Landrat-Guyollot 2010 La Ram- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 90 barde (Pouilly-Fumé). Moving toward the POUILLY-FUMÉ more tropical fruit spectrum of Sauvignon Blanc, this Le Carillon de Rouget 2009 Pomerol. A is round, with apricot and pineapple flavors. There is a big, rich blockbuster Merlot, this has dark rai- Château de Tracy 2009 Pouilly-Fumé. 88 fine streak of citrusy acidity that lifts the ripe fruit. JF sins and black plum flavors that dominate the back- 91 This is a richly ripe 2009 Pouilly Fumé. It steers Wine Imports. —R.V. ground tannins. Its power comes from the superripe right to the tropical fruit end of the spectrum while not abv: 12.5% Price: $NA fruit and the concentration of the structure. Age for 3–4 losing sight of a more textured mineral character. It is years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. rich and could age for 1–2 years and more. Martin Scott Domaine Laporte 2010 Les Duchesses abv: 14.5% Price: $85 Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 90 (Pouilly-Fumé). Moving toward the floral side Château Jandel 2006 Listrac-Médoc. of Sauvignon Blanc, this fruity, rounded wine has ripe 87 With the rough edges and firm tannins of Lis- Domaine Landrat-Guyollot 2009 Gemme acidity, a tangy citrus flavor and a full-bodied feel. It’s trac, this is a wine that will likely always be firm. Domi- 91 de Feu (Pouilly-Fumé). Mineral and spice set to age over several years. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. nated by Cabernet Sauvignon, it has a black currant skin notes dominate this full-bodied wine. It is ripe and abv: 12.5% Price: $30 flavor, some wood influence and a dry texture. It may rich—the more mineral side balanced with yellow fruit not age further, always staying tannic and solid. MHW, and a touch of pepper. Age this rich wine for 2–3 years. Pascal Jolivet 2010 Les Terres Blanches Ltd. —R.V. JF Wine Imports. —R.V. 90 (Pouilly-Fumé). While the wine is round, full abv: 12.5% Price: $33 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and rich, it also has a tense minerality that joins the acid- ity in cutting through the smoother structure. There is Château les Roches de Ferrand 2008 Fournier Père et Fils 2007 Grand Fumé a clean, tight tang to the texture that offers a ripe after- 87 Fronsac. A combination of austere tannins 91 (Pouilly-Fumé). This is very smoky, with fla- taste. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. and ripe fruits produces a youthful wine. It’s solid while vors of bacon as well as a yeasty character. The fruit has abv: 13% Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 31 Domaine Landrat-Guyollot 2009 Gemme trated and aromatically fruity. It is stylish and full of Domaine Fouassier 2010 Clos Paradis 89 Océan (Pouilly-Fumé). A rounded wine, this acidity, with white fruits and tight structure. Ready for 91 (Sancerre). This is a tropical-fruited wine, with is full of ripe white fruits that are laced with a citrus aging over several years. Grape Expectations (CA). Cel- mango and sweet peach notes showing the wine’s rich- note. It does have a herbal tang, although this is finely lar Selection. —R.V. ness. As a complement, there is the taut green-fruit acid- integrated into the finish’s ripe final texture. JF Wine abv: 13% Price: $32 ity that’s bright and fresh. The two together lend a rich, Imports. —R.V. yet structured wine. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Henri Bourgeois 2009 Sancerre d’Antan abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 93 (Sancerre). This is a ripe and full-bodied; it Henri Bourgeois 2011 En Travertin benefitted from the warm vintage, offering rich yellow- Domaine Fouassier 2010 Les Chailloux 89 (Pouilly-Fumé). Attractive, fruity and round, fruit flavors to go with its touches of toast and sweet 91 (Sancerre). Very pure—this has a straight this offers tangy acidity, fresh apple and citrus fruits and herb. On the finish, acidity and minerality come forward line of acidity right to the wine’s citrus- and pineapple- a full texture. It is floral and aromatic—a wine that will to suggest its aging potential. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. flavored heart. It is structured and taut, with its acidity be ready to drink in the next year. Opici Wines. —R.V. Inc. —R.V. dominant. It is concentrated and ready to age for 2–3 abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $59 years. Garber and Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Pascal Jolivet 2010 Pouilly-Fumé. Soft Pascal Jolivet 2010 Exception (Sancerre). 89 and rounded, this is full of white fruits and a 93 An impressive blend from some of the top vine- Pascal Jolivet 2010 Clos du Roy soft texture. It has a crisp citrus edge that gives a bite of yards in Sancerre, this is a rounded, smooth, almost 91 (Sancerre). This is intensely minerally and acidity. On the finish, the tang is balanced by richness. toasty wine. It has flavors of spice as well as green and very tight. It has a real steely character, with its acid- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. citrus fruits. Full in the mouth and intense, age this for ity packed tight into the concentrated texture, making abv: 12.5% Price: $NA at least two years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cel- this dense wine likely to age over three years. Frederick lar Selection. —R.V. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Joseph Mellot 2011 Domaine des Mari- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 88 niers (Pouilly-Fumé). Taut, tangy and min- erally, this has a steely texture to go with the intense Domaine Fouassier 2010 Les Romains Roger et Didier Raimbault 2010 Vieilles green-herb and citrus notes. The wine has a green, crisp 92 (Sancerre). The Romans made it to Sancerre, 91 Vignes (Sancerre). Rounded and rich, this aftertaste, with acidity and a tight structure. Fruit of the hence the name of this wine. The flavors are rich, with is an impressive wine. It has weight, with ripe yellow Vines, Inc. —R.V. a mineral edge to the notes of green fruits, plums and and white fruits to go with the intense acidity and citrus abv: 12.5% Price: $NA greengages and a serious citrus core. With its structure, edge. The finish is crisp and taut. It’s worth aging this the wine needs to age for 2–3 years. Bayfield Importing wine for 2–3 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Fournier Père et Fils 2010 Les Deux Cail- Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45 87 loux (Pouilly-Fumé). While it does have a abv: 13% Price: $25 rounded texture, the dominant character here is a black Domaine Laporte 2010 Le Rochoy currant and pink grapefruit herbaceousness. The wine Henri Bourgeois 2010 La Chapelle des 90 (Sancerre). This is very aromatic, with min- has richness and good concentration along with tight 92 Augustins (Sancerre). The flint and sand soil erality vying with fruit and tense acidity. This complex acidity on the finish. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. of this vineyard brings out the minerally, steely character wine has an austere side, both rich and structured that abv: 12.5% Price: $27 of this taut, tight wine. While it is herbaceous and flavors will soften in a couple of years. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. of pineapple and white fruit, the structure dominates. abv: 13% Price: $30 Michel Redde et Fils 2011 Petit Fumé Give this impressive wine another year or two. Ideal 87 (Pouilly-Fumé). This is fresh, light and very Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Henri Bourgeois 2010 Domaine Gérard crisp. Citrus fruits dominate the grassy, herbaceous tex- abv: 13% Price: $32 90 Fiou (Sancerre). Hailing from a separate do- ture. There is perfumed white-currant acidity on the maine whose wines are bottled by Henri Bourgeois, this finish. Kobrand. —R.V. Henri Bourgeois 2009 La Bourgeoise is a soft, fruity wine. It has attractive citrus and pear abv: 13% Price: $NA 92 (Sancerre). Old vines have produced a super- flavors—a combination that gives both crispness and a concentrated and ripe wine. It has notes of toast, spice rounded texture. Age for a year. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. and yellow fruit as well as bright acidity. With its struc- abv: 13% Price: $NA SANCERRE ture, depth of flavor and density, it should age well over Pascal Jolivet 2010 Les Caillottes Henri Bourgeois 2010 Jadis (Sancerre). 3–4 years. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. (Sancerre). Old vines on a single parcel pro- One of the top wines from Henri Bourgeois, abv: 14% Price: $35 90 94 vide the base of this fresh-faced wine. It has an attrac- this is rich and ageworthy. Its green and white fruits Pascal Jolivet 2010 Le Chêne Marchand tive herbaceous and green-fruit character that’s laced push through a concentrated structure to give a dense (Sancerre). The steep south-facing Chêne with a grapefruit note. This has exceptional depth of fla- wine with ripeness and great elegance. Monsieur Tou- 92 Marchand vineyard provides fruit for this very concen- vor, and the aftertaste is more steely and flinty. Freder- ton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. trated and impressive wine. Its weight doesn’t come abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. from richness, but rather a powerful structure that un- abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine Laporte 2006 Le Grand Rochoy derpins a mineral tang and intense freshness. Frederick Domaine Fouassier 2010 Les Chassei- (Sancerre). The idea that Sauvignon Blanc Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 93 gnes (Sancerre). Flavors of yellow fruit, cannot age is emphatically disproved by this impressive, abv: 12% Price: $NA 89 peach and apricot are given a light burst of acidity and mature wine. It is rich and concentrated, full of almonds, Pascal Jolivet 2010 Sauvage (Sancerre). sent on their way with a mineral texture. This wine is all herbs and a great sense of length and ripeness. This is A rich, yeasty wine, this is a ripe expression of fruit at first, but with the apple skin edge, it needs a year now perfectly ready to drink. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. 92 Sauvignon Blanc, with balanced and concentrated min- abv: 12.5% Price: $45 of bottle age. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. eral intensity and taut lemon and grapefruit flavors. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Henri Bourgeois 2010 La Côtes des There is a strong sense of structure and texture, and the Domaine Fouassier 2010 Les Grands Monts Damnés (Sancerre). The steep wine needs to age at least two years. Frederick Wildman 93 Groux (Sancerre). Tropical fruits and rich- Monts Damnés Vineyard is one of the top sites in & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 89 ly herbaceous flavors come together in this ripe, fruity Sancerre. It has produced a wine that is both concen- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA wine. It has a citrus core along with a fine tang of orange

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 zest and pineapple. Ready to drink. Bayfield Importing ripe lime flavors to go with the smooth texture and fin- rus and apple, with a light, dancing character. Cognac Ltd. —R.V. ish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. One, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $14

Joseph Mellot 2009 La Grande Châte- Domaine Laporte 2011 Le Bouquet (Val de Domaine Philippe Portier 2010 Cuvée des 89 laine (Sancerre). This is an attractive wood- 86 Loire). Truly herbaceous and aromatic, this is a 87 Victoires (Quincy). The small appellation aged wine that puts spice and vanilla notes at the same crisp, clean, easy-drinking wine, with a fresh, bright line of Quincy, near Sancerre, produces soft, ripe Sauvignon level as the fruitiness. It retains an aromatic character, of acidity. Ready to drink now. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. Blanc. This has ripe acidity, with flavors of baked apple with hints of green fruit and citrus. Keep for another abv: 12.5% Price: $23 and pear and a fine citrus streak. Opici Wines. —R.V. year. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Henri Bourgeois 2011 Petit Bourgeois 86 (Val de Loire). A light, bright, herbaceous Joseph Mellot 2011 Destinéa Sauvignon Michel Redde et Fils 2010 Les Tuilières wine, this is the epitome of easy-drinking Sauvignon 87 Blanc (Pays de Loire). This is a smooth, 89 (Sancerre). While this is certainly crisp, it also Blanc. Crisp apple and grapefruit flavors dominate the ripe fruited wine. It has refreshing pink-grapefruit and has a rich, creamy undertow giving the green plum and lemon zest texture. Drink now. Screwcap. Monsieur lime flavors bursting with crispness and surrounded by herb flavors some warmth and ripeness. It’s ready to Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. a creamy character. Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. drink, but could age a year or two. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $NA

Fournier Père et Fils 2010 Les Belles OTHER WHITE WINES Domaine du Salvard 2010 Cheverny. This 88 Vignes (Sancerre). A wine that is so herba- Guy Saget 2009 Château de la Mulon- 86 is an attractive mint- and pear-flavored wine ceous and crisply textured, this has intense grassy, herb- 91 nière l’Effet Papillon (Savennières). Like with citrus acidity. There is a delicious refreshing or- al flavors of thyme and tarragon. David Milligan Selec- most Savennières, this is a dry wine. Yet it is so rich, ange character to this soft, light and very fresh wine. tions. —R.V. rounded and packed with ripe tropical fruits. The tex- Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $26 ture is opulent, smooth, creamy and concentrated. It needs to age for at least fours years. Pasternak Wine Fournier Père et Fils 2010 Sauvignon Roger et Didier Raimbault 2011 Les Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Blanc (Pays de Loire). Light and bright, this Belles Côtes (Sancerre). Taut, minerally and abv: 13.5% Price: $38 86 88 is full of crisp green-apple and citrus flavors, with an delicious, this could age but is refreshing and zingy now. herbaceous edge. It’s a summer wine, ready to drink It has fine depth of flavor—its herbal and grapefruit -fla Guy Saget 2009 Château de la Mulon- now. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. vors are right up front. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. nière à la Faveur d’Automne (Coteaux du 90 abv: 12% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Layon Beaulieu). This is a sweet, botrytized wine, treading the line between richness and intense acidity. Alpha Loire 2011 Domaine de la Croix Domaine Fouassier 2010 Sur le Fort A dry edge and flavors of ripe yellow fruits and a touch Bouqure (Touraine). Taut and herbaceous, (Sancerre). This is a herbaceous wine with of maple syrup give the wine both complexity and aging 85 87 this has a refreshing line of perfumed pear and lime fla- dominant green fruit, followed by acidity and fine fla- potential. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. vors. It’s crisp, tangy and drinkable now with a clean, vors of sweet currant, kiwi and thyme. It is fresh and abv: 11.5% Price: $42 bright finish. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. ready to drink. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $23 Domaine Brisebarre 2009 Sec (Vouvray). This is a perfumed wine, moving easily between 89 Louis and David Luneau 2010 Château crisp, dry acidity and a more rounded almond and pear Henri Bourgeois 2011 Les Baronnes des Cléons sur lie (Muscadet Sèvre Et (Sancerre). flavor. There are flavors of spice and freshly baked 84 87 Taut, mineral and also fruity, this Maine). A minerally and creamy wine, this has a green bread, with warm acidity on the finish. Good Company expresses both the simple attraction of bright Sauvignon apple character that’s shot through with acidity. It has a Wines. —R.V. Blanc and its more structured, tangy character. Not for soft, fresh finish with bright citrus flavors. Plume Ridge abv: 13% Price: $22 aging; enjoy this year. Opici Wines. —R.V. Negociants. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Guy Saget 2010 Marie de Beauregard abv: 12% Price: $NA Joseph Mellot 2011 La Chatellenie 89 (Vouvray). This is an off dry Chenin Blanc 87 (Sancerre). This is a ripe, full-bodied wine with the hallmark flavors of ripe yellow fruits and al- ROSÉ that has pear and apricot flavors and a soft, warm feel. monds that are balanced by intense acidity. With its still It’s fruity, tangy and ready to drink now. Screwcap. Fruit youthful crisp character, the wine should age. Pasternak Domaine Laporte 2011 Le Bouquet Rosé (Val de Loire). of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Wine Imports. —R.V. 86 This is a deliciously fruity ef- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $20 fort that is packed with raspberry and red currant fla- vors. It’s light and juicy with refreshing acidity. Screw- Fournier Père et Fils 2010 Côtes de Mo- Joseph Mellot 2011 Le Montarlet cap. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. rogues (Menetou-Salon). One of the small (Sancerre). This is a soft wine, with light 88 abv: 12.5% Price: $23 87 Sauvignon Blanc areas close to Sancerre, Menetou-Sa- green-plum and apple flavors, and an asparagus edge lon produces a light, crisp and herbal style of wine. This Joseph Mellot 2011 Le Rabault Rosé that comes through on the finish. Ready to drink. fits that bill well, its freshness contained within the fla- (Sancerre). This is an intense crisp and red- Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 86 vors of hedgerow fruits and tangy acids. David Milligan fruited wine. Clean and clear, this is delicious to drink abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Selections. —R.V. now with its lively freshness on the finish. Screwcap. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA VAL DE LOIRE Domaine de la Tourmaline 2010 Sur Lie Pascal Jolivet 2010 Attitude (Val de 88 (Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine). Made by the Henri Bourgeois 2011 Petit Bourgeois 87 Loire). More fragrant than herbaceous, this is a top Muscadet producer Christophe Gadais, this is beau- 85 Rosé (Val de Loire). Fresh and bright, this rounded, creamy wine. It has creamed pear, apricot and tifully clean and crisp. It has fragrant fruit flavors of cit- is a light, fruity and easy rosé. It is aromatic, soft and

WineMag.com | 33 ready to drink. Screwcap. Monsieur Touton Selection Musset-Roullier 2009 Les Neuf Vingt (An- toward tropical, with pineapple and peach flavors. It is Ltd. —R.V. 87 jou). Juicy and ripe, this has soft tannins and not a wine to age. Duval-Leroy Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA a red berry flavor. Alongside all of the fruit is a more abv: 12.5% Price: $120 stalky, spicy character to give complexity. The wine is ready to drink, but it could age for 2–3 years. Good Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 2004 La RED WINES Company Wines. —R.V. 93 Grande Dame Brut Rosé (Champagne). Guy Saget 2010 Marie de Beauregard abv: 13% Price: $19 This has a toasty edge that complements the ripe red fruit and attractive lemon and yeast character. It seems (Chinon). This is fruity, balanced and full of 90 Fournier Père et Fils 2007 Les Belles to be well on its way to maturity, retaining a fruity style blackberry flavor, with juicy acidity and an attractive per- Vignes (Sancerre). The maturity of this light- while its flavors are beginning to dig deeper. Moët Hen- fumed character. Drinkable now, it should also mature 86 weight Pinot Noir expresses itself with depth of flavor— nessy USA. —R.V. well over 2–3 years. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $269 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 the wood and red fruit flavors reach out to the core of tannins. It has a smoky toast character along with the Veuve Doussot NV Cuvée L (Champagne). Domaine Laporte 2009 Les Royaux crisp acidity. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. This is a taut, tight, dry Champagne, needing a (Sancerre). An aromatic, full-bodied wine abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 93 89 few more years of bottle age. It has fine acidity, with from a rich vintage, this has firm tannins and an ap- Musset-Roullier 2010 Léjourie (Anjou). a crisp lemon flavor and a lively mousse. With further proachable red-fruit flavor, with spice and toast notes This is a youthful fruit bomb, with a red fruit maturity, it will develop into an intense, toasty Cham- from wood aging. Age this for at least two years. Mar- 86 flavor that explodes in the mouth. It is soft and round, pagne of great quality. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. tine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $140 abv: 13% Price: $50 with a powerful shot of refreshing acidity. Drink now. Good Company Wines. —R.V. Veuve Doussot 2002 Cuvée Guy Joly Mé- Guy Saget 2009 Château de la Mulon- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 mory Brut (Champagne). Maturing well, nière Rouge Baiser (Anjou Villages). Al- 93 88 Vignoble de la Jarnoterie 2009 this is a rich Champagne. Its fruit flavors have gained a though there is a wood-aged character to the wine, the L’Elégance (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). golden glow of toast and almond flavors, while retaining main feeling is of stalky red fruits, tight tannins and ac- 86 Soft and round, this has an enticing smoky aroma and a taut, textured acidity. Ready to drink now. Serge Doré ids. It has a smoky character from the Cabernet Franc red berry fruit. The stalky texture and crisp acidity give Selections. —R.V. that adds complexity. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $120 abv: 13% Price: $26 the wine a light, ready-to-drink feel Good Company Wines. —R.V. Duval-Leroy 2005 Clos des Bouveries Joseph Mellot 2010 Les Morinières (Chi- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Made non). Rich and firm, this has dry tannins set 91 88 from grapes sourced from a single vineyard, this is an in- over the red berry fruits and acids. There is a crisp edge tensely minerally Champagne. It is dry and austere, with to go with the firm core. This is a wine to age for 2–3 FRENCH citrus fruits dominant. The wine needs to age to bring years or drink this year. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. SPARKLING WINE abv: 12.5% Price: $NA out all of the richness and toast flavor, but it will always CHAMPAGNE be a structured Champagne. This is very much a food Musset-Roullier 2009 Petit Clos (Anjou wine. Duval-Leroy Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 88 Villages). This is a rounded wine that brings Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 2004 La abv: 12.5% Price: $65 forward soft tannins and flavors of ripe fruit and spice. 94 Grande Dame Brut (Champagne). This is Veuve Doussot 2006 Millésime (Cham- The red currant fruit dominates while the sultana fla- a rich and creamy Champagne with a lively mousse, giv- pagne). Rounded and soft, this has currant vor adds some richness. Good Company Wines. —R.V. ing it a forward fruit character. Slowly the depth and 91 abv: 12.5% Price: $27 concentration of the wine come through, with a white and sweet apple flavors balanced with its acidity. It is fruit flavor and hints of grapefruit and toasty yeast, concentrated and rich, and there’s still some aging po- Vignoble de la Jarnoterie 2008 Concerto which all promising good aging. Moët Hennessy USA. tential. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 88 Vieilles Vignes (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bour- Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $90 gueil). A balanced wine, showing the freshness of the abv: 12.5% Price: $140 Gosset NV Excellence Brut (Cham- vintage, this has a taut plum-skin texture and plenty of pagne). For full review see page 11. acidity. It has an edge of toast and spice and a stalky, Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 2004 Brut 90 abv: 12% Price: $47 smoky character. Good Company Wines. —R.V. 94 (Champagne). One of the best vintages since abv: 12.5% Price: $30 the great 2002, this is a sophisticated, fruit- and yeast- driven wine. It has a delicate touch, with its white fruit Jeaunaux-Robin NV Extra Brut Grande Tradition (Champagne). Henri Bourgeois 2009 Domaine Gérard flavors well integrated into the toasty and tangy texture. 89 This is showing some maturity with its ripe apple fruits and taut tex- Fiou (Sancerre). This is a ripe, wood laden It will age for many more years. Moët Hennessy USA. 87 ture. Very dry, it is still rich and ripe enough to sustain wine. It has red plum and damson flavors overladen by Cellar Selection. —R.V. the intense grapefruit and citrus finish. Good Company notes of burnt toast and smoke. Acidity shows through abv: 12% Price: $89 Wines. —R.V. on the finish. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Duval-Leroy 2006 Paris Brut (Cham- pagne). Balancing a ripe lime flavor with a note 93 Veuve Doussot NV Grand Cuvée Brut Joseph Mellot 2009 Le Boisclair (Sau- of rich peach and acidity, this shows the ability to age. (Champagne). This is a rich wine with a fine mur-Champigny). Attractive and smoky, this Even though it is delicious now, it will age over several 89 87 weight of ripe red apple and pink grapefruit flavors to has a light red-currant perfume. The wine is soft, with years. Duval-Leroy Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. go with the crisp finish. The wine is ripe and full in the bright acidity to go with the more serious tannins and abv: 12.5% Price: $50 mouth, with just the right final acidity. Serge Doré Se- dry finish. Drink now, or age for two years. Fruit of the lections. —R.V. Vines, Inc. —R.V. Duval-Leroy 2000 Femme de Cham- abv: 12.5% Price: $80 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 93 pagne Brut (Champagne). A mature Cham- pagne, this shows as much toast and cookie character as fruit, making it soft, ripe and delicious. The fruit moves Duval-Leroy NV Brut (Champagne). At- 88 tractive and floral, this is fruity with pear and

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 red apple flavors. It is soft and full in the mouth; its Grandin NV Brut (Crémant de Loire). Veuve du Vernay NV Brut (Vin Mous- creamy mousse lends just a light tang of lemon zest fla- 85 Rounded, rich and full in the mouth, this is a 85 seux). For full review see page 15. Best Buy. vor. The finish is balanced and fruity. Duval-Leroy Im- fruity wine. It has flavors of toast, yeast, green apple skin abv: 11% Price: $10 ports. —R.V. and a burst of citrus. There is a dry, herbal finish. The abv: 12% Price: $45 Other Wine & Spirits. Best Buy.—R.V. Veuve du Vernay NV Brut Rosé (Vin abv: 12.5% Price: $15 85 Mousseux). Round and fruity, this is clean- Jeaunaux-Robin NV Sélection Extra Brut ly made, with its soft character coming from the ripe 88 (Champagne). This is a very dry Champagne strawberry fruit. It’s a good candidate to pair with a fruit that offers crisp apple and grapefruit flavors along with SAUMUR dessert or to serve as an apéritif. Patriarche USA. Best a toasty, yeasty character. The acidity makes for a taut Bouvet-Ladubay 2008 Trésor Brut (Sau- Buy. —R.V. texture and a tense, lively finish. Good Company Wines. 90 mur). Crisp, yet rich, brings in flavors of ripe abv: 11.5% Price: $10 —R.V. apple and melon along with notes of yeast and toast. Charles de Fère NV Reserve Nature Brut abv: 12% Price: $NA With its delicious acidity and a full, creamy texture, the (Vin Mousseux). Perfumed, light and fresh, wine has a refreshing final bite. Kobrand. —R.V. 84 this has acidity highlighting the white fruit and grape- Besserat de Bellefon NV Cuvée des abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 87 Moines Brut (Champagne). Soft and round- fruit flavors. It’s a crisp wine, edged with an apple skin ed, this has good depth of flavor from the bite of acidity Bouvet-Ladubay 2009 Saphir Brut (Sau- note. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V. and orange zest flavor. An apple note and a touch of toast 89 mur). Big, rich and creamy, this has white and abv: 11.5% Price: $14 give this wine further shape. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. yellow fruits and a full-bodied mouthfeel. It is ripe and Grandin NV Brut Prestige Blanc de abv: 12.5% Price: $NA rounded, with its acidity showing through to the finish. Blancs (Vin Mousseux). An aromatic wine It needs a year in the bottle. Kobrand. —R.V. 84 Duval-Leroy NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). abv: 12.5% Price: $NA with herb and toast notes, this is fruity while also yeasty. 87 This is an attractive pink-colored wine, with soft It is light and fragrant—an easy, refreshing drink. The crushed strawberry fruit flavors. The acidity is light, giv- Bouvet-Ladubay 2008 Taille Princesse Other Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. ing preference to the fruit and ripe flavor. The aftertaste 89 de Gérard Depardieu Rosé Brut (Sau- abv: 11.5% Price: $8 veers on the sweet side, but it’s well balanced. Duval- mur). French actor Gérard Depardieu, who has a vine- Leroy Imports. —R.V. yard in the Loire, has lent his name to this barrel-aged Grandin NV Rosé Dry (Vin Mousseux). abv: 12% Price: $60 sparkling wine. It has great richness, and its fruits mar- 84 This traditional method sparkling rosé is soft, ried with a more rounded, mature underlay and subtle rounded with strawberry fruit. There is a bitter almond Duval-Leroy NV Sec Rosé (Champagne). acidity. Kobrand. —R.V. edge to it that spoils its otherwise fruity character. The 87 This is a refreshing, off-dry rosé that comes in a abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Other Wine & Spirits. —R.V. romantic half bottle for two. It is finely balanced, with abv: 12% Price: $10 red apple and strawberry flavors mingling well. A cut of Pierre Sparr NV Marquis de Perlade acidity marks the finish. Duval-Leroy Imports. —R.V. GASCOGNE abv: 12% Price: $32/375 ml 84 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Vin Mousseux). Domaine Uby 2011 Uby 02 (Côtes de This is soft and creamy, fresh and clean. It has an attrac- Gascogne). A lightly sparkling blend of Sau- Veuve Doussot NV Tendresse Brut Rosé 86 tive burst of sweet orange peel along with a more citrusy vignon Blanc and Gros Manseng, this is soft and just (Champagne). A fruity and structured wine— character. With its final warm acidity, it is a fine apéritif 87 sweet. It is delicious, packed with apple, pear juice and there is a definite tannic edge to this otherwise bright wine. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. tangy lime flavors. A great summer apéritif. Screwcap. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 wine, with sweet strawberry fruit and fresh acidity. This Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. is a Champagne for food. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $61 ISRAEL Veuve Doussot NV Tradition Brut (Cham- VIN MOUSSEUX 87 pagne). A soft and rounded style of Cham- CHARDONNAY pagne, this leans toward the pineapple and baked apple Jean-Luc Baldès NV Bul’s Rosé Malbec 87 (Vin Mousseux). A pink sparkling wine made Domaine du Castel 2010 C Blanc du Cas- flavor spectrum. At the same time, it has a pure streak tel Chardonnay (Judean Hills). Castel’s of acidity, finishing with a crisp, tight note. Serge Doré from Malbec, this shows signs of structure that over- 91 lay the red fruit, acidity, and some notes of toast and Blanc is always a well-made selection, and the 2010 car- Selections. —R.V. ries on that tradition. With 12 months spent in French abv: 12.5% Price: $56 yeast. It all adds up to an attractive, fruity wine. Miller Squared Inc. —R.V. oak, this is a rich and rounded Chardonnay that exhibits excellent balance and structure, matching bright acid- Besserat de Bellefon NV Cuvée des abv: 12.5% Price: $15 ity and refreshing sweet citrus flavors with lush notes of Moines Brut Rosé (Champagne). This 86 Charles de Fère NV M Moscato (Vin wood-grilled apple, orange creamsicle, crushed yellow has strawberry fruit with acidity and a tang of kiwi. It is Mousseux). Lovers of Italian sweet Moscato flower and peach pit nuttiness. Accents of woody spice warm, rounded and on the sweeter side of brut. Ready 86 will also enjoy this wine. With a honeyed perfume, it and lime zest carry onto the long finish. Kosher. Royal to drink. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. is a soft, creamy wine—fresh while also sweet. This is Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA meant for summer days or cold afternoons alike. Boisset abv: 14% Price: $50 Family Estates. —R.V. CRÉMANT DE LOIRE abv: 7.5% Price: $14 Recanati 2010 Chardonnay (Galilee). Soft 88 toasted-brioche and hay notes add depth to the Alpha Loire 2009 Belle de Nuit Brut (Cré- Grandin NV Brut (Vin Mousseux). Fresh orange rind and apple fruit center. Balanced and re- 87 mant de Loire). This is an attractively fruity 86 and fruity, this creamy wine has apple and cit- freshing, the ripe fruit flavors flesh out the palate, tran- wine, with an apple flavor and a creamy, full-in-the- rus flavors and a crisp shot of acidity. It is stylish, bub- sitioning onto the medium-length finish. Glimmers of mouth mousse. It’s fragrant and refreshing, with final bly and a fine apéritif. The Other Wine & Spirits. Best sweet spice and peach pit linger on the close. Kosher. rich acidity. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. Palm Bay International. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 11.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $15

WineMag.com | 35 Hevron Heights Winery 2010 Elone filling, it boasts a creamy yet firm texture with suppor- added depth of flavor. Mevushal. Kosher. Royal Wine 84 Mamre Aged in Oak Barrels Chardonnay ing tannins and a seemingly endless finish. Notes of to- Corporation. —L.B. (Judean Hills). Oak-driven notes of toasted almond bacco, leather and intense wood-driven spice all mingle abv: 14% Price: $25 skins and charred cedar planks mix with flavors of lem- seamlessly with the dark fruit core. Drinkable now, but on custard and mealy pear. This is round and mouthfill- this should age well through 2017. Kosher. Royal Wine Or Haganuz Winery 2009 Amuka Merlot- ing, with a strong, woody finish. Kosher. Happy Hearts Corporation. —L.B. 89 Carignan-Petit Verdot (Upper Galilee). Wine LLC. —L.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $60 Notes of fresh savory herb and black pepper spice up abv: 13.5% Price: $25 the plum, cherry and blueberry fruit center of this wine. Domaine du Castel 2009 Grand Vin A blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Carignan and 10% Pe- 91 (Haut-Judeé). This classic Bordeaux-style tit Verdot, this medium-weight selection offers a rich, OTHER WHITE WINES blend—made with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% fruit-driven palate with approachable tannins and a sol- Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot—is a stunner now, and it id finish. Kosher. Happy Hearts Wine LLC. —L.B. Recanati 2010 Special Reserve White shows the potential to age for another 5–10 years. Black abv: 13.3% Price: $16 (Galilee). A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 25% 88 cherry, cassis and wild blackberry notes dominate the Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Viognier, this wine needs nose and mouth, but supporting accents of forest and Psagot 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ju- time to really open up in the glass, and should not be cigar box spice add depth and interest to the fruit core. dean Hills). A bit closed—give this wine some served too cold, as some of the more nuanced aromas 88 Thick and slightly chewy, the dense texture and firm time in the open bottle or glass to better express iteself. will be masked. Rich apple and peach fruit mingle with structure promises longevity and additional develop- Black plum and berry fruit lead the nose and palate, notes of white and yellow flowers and fresh-cut herbs. ment to come. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. with more intensity appearing alongside the additional The texture is round and lush, but the finish is clean and abv: 14.5% Price: $75 spicy notes of licorice stick and coffee grounds. Kosher. lifted with a tart melon-rind accent. Kosher. Palm Bay Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. International. —L.B. Carmel 2009 Appellation Cabernet Franc abv: 14.4% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $52 90 (Galilee). Cedar, tobacco and leather comple- ment the notes of brambly berry, forest and a touch of Mony 2009 Reserve Dry Red Cabernet Recanati 2011 Yasmin White (Shomron). cocoa spice. The medium tannins provide a gripping Sauvignon (Samson). This medium-weight Always a good value, Recanati’s Yasmin line is an 87 85 structure, firming the berry and plum flavors on the pal- selection offers concentrated aromas and flavors of black easy-pleasing selection. Inviting aromas of freshly sliced ate. Waves of cigar box spice and tanned hide undulate currant and blackberry laced with accents of pepper peach, lychee and rose water lead seamlessly into fla- on the finish. Drinkable now, but it shows the stuffing to and earthy spice. There’s a bit of bite to the moderate vors of green melon and lime on the palate. The finish is age gracefully as well. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. tannins, while hints of tobacco leaf and cocoa nib spice short, but clean and refreshing. Mevushal. Kosher. Palm Editors’ Choice. —L.B. up the finish. Kosher. Happy Hearts Wine LLC. —L.B. Bay International. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Carmel 2009 Appellation Cabernet Sau- Or Haganuz Winery 2010 Har Sinai Cab- Recanati 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Shom- vignon (Galilee). For full review see page 10. ernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Galilee). This in- ron). Notes of light grass, green melon rind and 90 86 85 Editors’ Choice. teresting selection offers something different—after a touch of green pepper unfold in the bouquet, while abv: 14.5% Price: $20 being harvested by hand, the grapes were frozen for the palate boasts more citrus-based flavors of lime and three days and then heated on an open olive-wood fire tart gooseberry. This is bright and lively, with a short, Carmel 2009 Appellation Cabernet Sau- before fermenting. The resulting wine is full-bodied yet mouthwatering finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. vignon-Shiraz (Galilee). For full review see soft all at once, with dusty tannins that frame the dried —L.B. 90 page 10. Editors’ Choice. berry, plum and black cherry fruit. Accents of crushed abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $20 cocoa nib and balsamic grace the medium-length finish. Kosher. Happy Hearts Wine LLC. —L.B. ROSÉ Or Haganuz Winery 2009 Namura Select abv: 15.5% Price: $39 90 (Galilee). For full review see page 11. Odem Mountain 2011 Volcanic Dry Rosé abv: 14% Price: $34 Psagot 2010 Cabernet Franc (Judean 86 (Galilee). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and 86 Hills). Soft accents of carnation and forest floor Syrah, this offers dainty aromas of peony, nectarine Psagot 2010 Edom (Judean Hills). Dense marry with the red currant and bright white-strawberry and white strawberry. Fresh and bright, this has a live- 90 layers of dark fruits—black plum, cassis and aromas and flavors. Medium weight with fine, fleeting ly mouthfeel and a zippy finish. Kosher. Happy Hearts cherry—integrate with complex accents of black tea tannins, this has a clean, medium-length finish. Drink Wine LLC. —L.B. leaves, tanned hide and woody spice. Supporting tan- now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $25 nins provide the palate a firm structure, framing the abv: 14.3% Price: $34 lush, concentrated black-fruit-driven flavor. Drinkable Recanati 2010 Rosé (Galilee). This deep now, but it should age nicely though 2016. Kosher. Roy- Dovev 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Gali- 86 rosé—made from 70% Barbera and 30% Mer- al Wine Corporation. —L.B. 85 lee). Jammy and fruit forward, this has intense lot—exhibits intense aromas of red plum and strawber- abv: 14.7% Price: $35 notes of strawberry, blueberry and plum flesh through- ry, along with a hint of pomegranate. Light weight but out. The lively palate is bright and juicy, ending with an fruit forward, this has assertive flavors of red cherry and Recanati 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- easy, mouthwatering finish. Mevushal. Kosher. Happy berry that show good length on the finish. Kosher. Palm 90 gnon (Galilee). For full review see page 11. Hearts Wine LLC. Best Buy. —L.B. Bay International. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.3% Price: $10 abv: 12% Price: $15 Binyamina 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sau- Recanati 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Gal- 89 vignon (Galilee). Dark, earthy aromas of 85 ilee). On the nose and palate, notes of delicate CABERNETS & BLENDS black plum and chocolate-coated cherry are in the fore- cinnamon spice and bramble mingle with the blackber- ground of this wine’s bouquet, although additional notes Bazelet HaGolan 2009 Reserve Caber- ry and cassis fruit. Light weight and juicy, this has ap- of hoisin and balsamic unfold in the backdrop. Round proachable tannins and a clean finish. Kosher. Palm Bay net Sauvignon (Golan Heights). Lush and 91 and mouthfilling, this has rich notes of crushed vanilla International. —L.B. decadent, this starts off with such an opulent bouquet pod and coffee grinds that accent the black fruit core for abv: 14.5% Price: $15 of jammy black fruit and sultry spice. Rich and mouth-

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Recanati 2011 Yasmin Red (Galilee). At- Recanati 2010 Shiraz (Galilee). For full re- Pavlidis 2010 Emphasis Assyrtico (Dra- 85 tractive notes of dried red berry and bramble 90 view see page 13. Best Buy. 87 ma). Alluring aromas of tropical fruit, flow- mingle with hints of savory herb and soft peppery spice abv: 14% Price: $15 er and a spin of citrus are followed by soft flavors of on the bouquet of this blend. Skin-driven fruit flavors pineapple and tropical fruit. Less bounce and brace dominate the palate, followed by a clean finish. A blend Binyamina 2010 Reserve Carignan (Gali- than typical, which means it’s a great choice for fans of of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon; Mevush- 86 lee). Bright yet concentrated notes of plum, rounder whites. Athenee Importers. —S.K. al. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B. blueberry, cherry and soft bramble grace the nose and abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $11 palate of this ripe wine. Straightforward, yet juicy and at- tractive, this is medium weight with a vanilla-kissed finish. Estate Biblia Chora 2010 Areti Assyrtico Barkan 2009 20 Months Barrel Aged Mevushal. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. 86 (Pangeon). Alluring aromas of exotic fruit and 84 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). abv: 13% Price: $25 citrus are followed by equally lush flavors throughout: Light cassis and black currant aromas softly appear on think pineapple, lemon curd and even banana. Intrigu- the bouquet of this wine, with a touch of purple flower Hevron Heights Winery 2007 Judean ing and fun, but not overly complex. Cava Spiliadis. in the background for added interest. Low tannins and 85 Heights Tempranillo (Judean Hills). Red —S.K. an approachable weight make this an easy-drinking se- cherry and raspberry aromas lead the bouquet, with abv: 14% Price: $23 lection that’s ready for consumption now. Kosher. Royal secondary notes of red currant and savory herb in the Wine Corporation. —L.B. backround. This is medium weight, with dusty but abv: 14% Price: $22 gripping tannins and a firm structure. Kosher. Happy CHARDONNAY Hearts Wine LLC. —L.B. Domaine Gerovassiliou 2010 Chardon- Hevron Heights Winery 2007 A Laspor- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 nay (Epanomi). For full review see page 8. tas Brother’s Selection Special Reserve 91 84 abv: 13% Price: $44 (Judean Hills). A concentrated and intense wine, with Psagot 2010 Shiraz (Judean Hills). This forward notes of mulled cherry and berry fruit. Despite 85 Shiraz spends 13 months in French and Ameri- Pavlidis 2010 Emphasis Chardonnay the listed alcohol, it comes off as a bit liquorous, ending can oak, and it shows, thanks to decadent notes of choc- 89 (Drama). Fresh, fruity aromas lead this distinc- dry and tannic with a skin-driven, astringent finish. Ko- olate-covered cherry, cocoa powder and tree bark. The tive Chardonnay. The peach, lemon and spice flavors on sher. Happy Hearts Wine LLC. —L.B. palate exhibits a bit more fruitiness, with flavors of red the palate are easy going and food friendly, but overall abv: 13% Price: $80 plum and cherry flesh. A hint of white pepper stays the wine has an added flair that gives it an advantage through the medium-length close. Kosher. Royal Wine over others. Pair with seafood salads and fruit desserts. MERLOT Corporation. —L.B. Athenee Importers. —S.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $32 abv: 14% Price: $35 Bazelet HaGolan 2010 Merlot (Golan 87 Heights). Although the alcohol is relatively Domaine Katsaros 2010 Chardonnay high, it’s balanced by the wine’s rich and ripe fruit core DESSERT WINE 87 (Krania Olympus). For full review see page and soft tannic structure. The nose needs time to fully Binyamina 2009 Reserve Late Harvest 12. open up, revealing intense black-plum and cherry aro- 90 Cluster Select Gewürztraminer (Galilee). abv: 14% Price: $35 mas. Jammy and full on the palate, this has a hint of For full review see page 9. Skouras 2010 Almyra Chardonnay (Pelo- black pepper on the close. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpo- abv: 9% Price: $27/375 ml ration. —L.B. 87 ponnese). Lemon preserve and orange peel abv: 15.2% Price: $40 aromas lead this lusher-style Chardonnay. On the pal- GREECE ate, tropical fruit is laced with minerals and sea salt to Recanati 2010 Merlot (Galilee). Black plum create an overall friendly and food-focused white. Pair 86 and cherry aromas take second stage to the with oysters and fuller-bodied fish. Diamond Import- earthy notes of bramble, spice and crushed iris petal. Me- ASSYRTICO ers Inc. —S.K. dium weight with satiny tannins, this has a spicy black- Argyros 2010 Estate Argyros Assyrtico abv: 13% Price: $15 cherry finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B. 91 (Santorini). Elegant mineral, citrus and spice abv: 14% Price: $15 aromas lead into complex layers of sea salt and lem- Wine Art Estate 2010 Idisma Drios Char- on flavors. Overall this is balanced, but with a bracing 86 donnay (Drama). Balanced, elegant aromas Odem Mountain 2009 Volcanic Red Dry edge that’s refreshing and refined. Athenee Importers. of citrus and fresh white fruit give this immediate ap- 85 Merlot (Galilee). Strawberrry and rhubarb —S.K. peal. On the palate, there are layers of ripe tropical aromas open the bouquet of this Merlot, with hints of abv: 13.2% Price: $40 fruits and a touch of spice. Traditional in style, but with cinnamon, bark and raw cocoa nib unfolding shortly af- a stylish edge. Distinctive Imports LLC. —S.K. ter. Medium weight with soft, approachable tannins, Gaia Wines 2011 Thalassitis Assyrtico abv: 13.5% Price: $24 this has a clean, cherry-flavored finish. Kosher. Happy 91 (Santorini). Bright lemon, tropical fruit and Hearts Wine LLC. —L.B. a sea spray wave lead the nose of this energetic white. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 On the palate, the wine has balanced acidity, appealing MOSCHOFILERO bounce and a finish of alternately lush and bracing fruit. Skouras 2011 Georges Skouras Mos- OTHER RED WINES A great example of how elegant and likeable Greek 89 chofilero (Peloponnese). A soft lemon note whites can be. Athenee Importers. —S.K. mingles with touches of spice, sea salt and ripe white Recanati 2009 Reserve Wild Carignan abv: 13% Price: $25 fruit on the nose of this snappy but sophisticated Mos- 90 (Judean Hills). Here’s a unique selection that chofilero. Clean, fresh and spicy white-fruit flavors and offers concentrated aromas and flavors of cherry, rasp- Argyros 2010 Assyrtiko (Santorini). Aro- a pert finish give this wine poise, but there’s still enough berry, red plum flesh and stewed rhubarb, partnered 88 mas of fleshy white fruits and spice give this fruit to add dimension. It’s versatile with food, too. Dia- with nuances of earthy spice and vanilla bean. Medium Greek white a soulful edge. On the palate, clean, brac- mond Importers Inc. —S.K. acidity keeps the palate bright, while medium tannins ing flavors of bright lemon and minerals mean this is a abv: 12% Price: $15 provide structure and a velvety texture to the close. Ko- multiple-glass choice. This should pair well with grilled sher. Palm Bay International. —L.B. octopus and fish. Athenee Importers. —S.K. Zacharias 2011 White Symmetry Mos- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.2% Price: $20 87 chofilero (Peloponnese).Dried apricot,

WineMag.com | 37 lemon zest and flower notes lead the nose. Flavors of Argyros 2011 Atlantis Dry White (Cy- OTHER RED WINES fresh white fruit and citrus are laced with a chalky bite, 86 clades). Notes of lemon rind, miner- giving the wine focus and an elegant edge. A classy al and a spin of warming spice start this cheerful, Mercouri Estate 2007 Domaine Mercouri white for everyday sipping. Stellar Importing Company, easy-drinking white blend from the Cyclades. This is 90 Cava Dry (Letrinon). Blackberry, plum and LLC. —S.K. what Greek whites are all about: fresh, lively fruit and a savory meat aromas give this red an earthy, visceral ap- abv: 12% Price: $13 clean finish that pairs great with seafood. Athenee Im- peal. On the palate, bright fruit, acidity and brooding porters. —S.K. spice strike a delicious balance: think smoke, clove, and Ktima Tselepos 2010 Blanc de Gris abv: 13% Price: $15 leather notes. This is a wine that’s elegant and easy to 86 Dry White Moschofilero (Arcadia). Rose like. Athenee Importers. Editors’ Choice. —S.K. and white flower notes lead the nose on this fragrant, Dionysos 2010 Moschofilero-Moschato abv: 14% Price: $50 distinctive white. On the palate, stone fruit, vanilla, and 84 (Peloponnese). Simple but satifisfying, this spice flavors are subtle and appealing. Distinctive Im- wine exhibits good fruit, pretty aromatics and a spicy Mercouri Estate 2007 Domaine Mercouri ports LLC. —S.K. kick. It’s a little out of focus and lacks acidity, but over- 89 Vin de Pays des Letrinon (Letrinon). abv: 12% Price: $22 all, this is a pleasing everyday white. Athena Importing Notes of savory meat, anise, crushed black pepper and Co. —S.K. balsamic on the nose are followed by elegant waves of Spiropoulos 2010 Made with Organic abv: 12.5% Price: $18 ripe red fruit and smoke on the palate. A successful bal- 85 Grapes Moschofilero (Mantinia). Soft aro- ance of rich fruit and a briny, spicy backbone, this is a mas of lemon blossom, flower and citrus lead into ap- Methymnaeos 2010 Chidiriotiko Blanc de red that’s very good consumed on its own or paired with pealing flavors of citrus, sea salt and spice. It’s not an 84 Noirs (Lesbos). Vanilla, orange marmalade grilled meats. Athenee Importers. —S.K. overly complex white but does not need to be. Enjoy and butterscotch aromas intrigue in this more volup- abv: 13% Price: $28 this with grilled seafood, vegetables and fruit. Athenee tuous white. On the palate, flavors of butterscotch and Importers. —S.K. orange peel are unique but the white could use a touch Zacharias 2009 Black Cubed (Pelopon- abv: 11.5% Price: $18 more balancing acidity. Overall though, this is a unique 89 nese). Crushed herb, rose petal, forest floor everyday wine. Neri Wine Cellars. —S.K. and red berry aromas immediately set this red apart. On abv: 13.5% Price: $14 the palate, it’s more modern in style, with black cherry OTHER WHITE WINES and berry flavors, and notes of tobacco and cigar box Lyrarakis 2011 Okto Dry White Wine AGIORGITIKO to balance, ending with a fresh finish. Stellar Importing 89 (Crete). For full review see page 12. Company, LLC. —S.K. abv: NA Price: $18 Estate Biblia Chora 2008 Areti Agiorgi- abv: 13% Price: $20 88 tiko (Pangeon). For full review see page 12. Mercouri Estate 2011 Foloi Dry White abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Domaine Gerovassiliou 2007 Evangelo 89 (Peloponnese). Spicy but delicate aromas are 88 (Epanomi). Big fruit aromas of plum, rasp- followed by lively flavors of white fruit and citrus in this Spiropoulos 2008 Made with Organic berry and a whiff of pepper start this enjoyable red distinctive white. Fragrant and fruity, but balanced with 88 Grapes Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Notes of cola, from Gerovassiliou. On the palate, flavors of spicy black a clean, refreshing acidity, this white has a stylish char- black pepper and cocoa on the nose are followed by fruit, clove and smoke appeal and should pair well with acter that should pair well with cheeses and fresh fish. touches of red cherry, cedar and spice in this elegant grilled meat dishes and stews. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. Athenee Importers. —S.K. red. It has a dry, sophisticated character but good red abv: 13% Price: $79 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 fruit roundness to balance the package. Athenee Im- porters. —S.K. Kir-Yianni 2009 Paranga (Macedonia). Skouras 2011 Roditis-Moscofilero (Pelo- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 88 Cedar, tobacco and mint aromas are followed by 89 ponnese). Aromas of candied fruits, flowers vibrant flavors of violet, red berry and black pepper in and a perky citric edge give this white a fun and exotic Boutari 2008 Dry Red Agiorgitiko this elegant blend of Syrah, Merlot and Xinomavro. Dry feel. On the palate, soft flavors of lemon curd, orange 85 (Nemea). Red berry, tea and mesquite aromas and spicy but rounded by softer fruit, it’s a very good red marmalade, fresh fruit and spice are in balance and will lead into flavors of cherry, smoke and pepper in this dry, with exotic appeal. VOS Selections. —S.K. appeal to fans of a slightly less-dry Greek white. Pretty food-friendly red. A leaner sip with a spicy character, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and easy drinking. Diamond Importers Inc. Best Buy. this wine will pair nicely with dry-rub barbecue and —S.K. tangy stews. Terlato Wines International. —S.K. Kir-Yianni 2007 Dyo Elies (Naoussa). This abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 88 wine has a sultry nose of plum, anise, red ber- ry and tobacco. On the palate, it offers a full, ripe fruit Domaine Sigalas 2011 Asirtiko Athiri Skouras 2008 Grande Cuvée Agiorgitiko character, with an overall easy-going berry-and-spice 87 (Santorini). Notes of sea salt, perky citrus and 85 (Nemea). Mocha, raspberry, sour cherry and combination. A balanced red blend with widespread a wave of ripe tropical fruit combine to form an elegant spice are the focus of this plucky red from Skouras. appeal. VOS Selections. —S.K. white with a food-pairing advantage. On the palate, The wine has focus and a masculine edge, and should abv: 14.5% Price: $40 there is good body and a round fruit character that is pair well with dried meats, spicy pasta sauces and salty nicely cut with a fresh finish. Pair with chicken, salmon cheeses. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Skouras NV Labyrinth 9906 Megas Oe- and fruit. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $26 88 nos (Peloponnese). This earthy, spicy red abv: 13.5% Price: $18 has an Old World feel, with its allspice, new leather and Greek Wine Cellars 2009 Agiorgitiko black fruit aromas, and a flavor of savory spice. An age- Nasiakos 2011 White (Mantinia). This is a 84 (Nemea). Cigarbox, cinnamon and clove aro- worthy bottling with indigenous character, this wine will 87 tasty white for patio sipping and summer pic- mas are followed by pepper, tea leaf and cherry on the be should fantastic with grilled or dried meats and sa- nics. Fresh, lively aromas are softened with a lovely palate of this traditional-style Agiorgitiko. Subtle and a vory lamb. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. floral edge, followed by easy-going, refreshing flavors bit spicy, this should pair well with brick-oven pizza with abv: 12.5% Price: $120 of lemon, nectarine and sea salt. It’s a flirty wine that tangy cheese or lamb kebabs. Nestor Imports. —S.K. should pair well with fruit, fresh fish and salads. Stellar abv: 12.5% Price: $17/1.5 L Skouras 2008 Megas Oenos (Pelopon- Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. 88 nese). With raspberry and vanilla notes and a abv: 12% Price: $16 pretty finish of cherry, this is a full and friendly red that

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 should pair with everything from casual burgers to beef DESSERT WINES Viña Requingua 2011 Puerto Viejo Re- Bourgogne. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. 84 serve Chardonnay (Maule Valley). Can- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Mercouri Estate 2004 Chortais Natural died melon and peach aromas lead to a creamy, woody 88 Sweet (Greece). Coffee, tobacco, orange peel palate that’s somewhat flat in feel and short on acidity. Domaine Gerovassiliou 2007 Avaton (Ep- and lemon aromas start this sweet wine from Mercouri. Flavors include vanilla, cream, spicy oak and soft apple 87 anomi). This offers aromas and flavors of plum, Big flavors of leather, bitter orange, molasses and spice fruit. It’s spicy and barrel driven on the finish. Puerto savory spice and cigarbox, with an overall dry and fo- box give it a masculine edge. It’s assertive and good for a Viejo Wines. —M.S. cused character. A smoky spice note finishes the wine. cold winter day. Athenee Importers. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $10 Pair this with grilled lamb, pizza or steak. Cava Spilia- abv: 15% Price: $75/375 ml dis. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $55 Hermes NV Red Dessert (Mavrodaphne SAUVIGNON BLANC 86 of Patras). Hazelnut, butterscotch praline and Montes 2011 Classic Series Sauvignon Domaine Sigalas NV Apiliotis Mandilaria vanilla aromas are followed by a mellow interplay of nut, Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Varietally and (Greece). Deep black cassis fruit, cedar and 87 87 honey, candied ginger and cinnamon. Not overly com- regionally correct, with green, grassy, punchy aromas of cigarbox aromas are followed by flavors of thick kirsch, plex, but certainly appealing. Deutsch Family Wine & citrus, white pepper and jalapeño. This is prickly in the anise and raspberry. Very fruity and lush, this red has an Spirits. —S.K. mouth, with lively acidity and flavors of lime, scallion, opulent character and would be tasty over ice cream. abv: 15% Price: $15 green apple and bell pepper. It finishes with cut and Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. juicy acids. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 9% Price: $25/500 ml Loukatos NV Red Dessert Wine (Mav- abv: 13% Price: $12 85 rodaphne of Patras). Toasted nut, caramel Estate Biblia Chora 2006 Ovilos (Pan- and sweet cedar aromas are followed by hot, spicy fla- Cuevas del Sur 2011 Reserve Sauvignon geon). The Ovilos starts with aromas of rich 87 vors, rounded by sweet cherry and vanilla. Earthy but a Blanc (Maule Valley). Standard white-fruit blackberry, cedar and vanilla, and on the palate, offers 83 touch flirty, this wine has an indigenous appeal. Stellar aromas mark the nose. The wine feels medium bodied, a rustic, masculine edge. Lots of texture and tannin Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. with pithy, soft grapefruit and nectarine flavors. It’s tex- here, with layers of tobacco, leather and cedar flavors. It abv: 15% Price: $11 tured but turns bitter on the finish. Carbe LLC. —M.S. could age, or be paired nicely now with a grilled steak. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Cava Spiliadis. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $55 CYPRUS Vistamar 2011 Sepia Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). This is sweaty Skouras 2007 Synoro (Peloponnese). 83 DESSERT WINE and pungent on the nose. It feels O.K. in the mouth, Red cherry, leather and spice aromas start this 87 with roundness offset by honest acids. On the palate, it lively, spicy red from Skouras. On the palate, more rus- Loel NV Alasia Dessert Wine (Comman- tastes tropical and grassy, with vegetal notes sneaking in. tic leather and sour cherry flavors mingle with mocha daria). Aromas of toasted nut, vanilla nougat, 89 The flavors turn toward canned beans and mealy fruit and a mineral-accented finish. This is a pert, plucky orange, spice and lemon lead this sophisticated sip from on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. wine with soul. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Loel. On the palate, spice, smoke, nut and citrus flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $28 intermingle in an elegant but assertive package. This is an appealing and historic treat. Nestor Imports. —S.K. Arauco 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cen- Pavlidis 2008 Thema (Drama). Anise, abv: 15% Price: $17 tral Valley). This is tropical on the nose, with blackberry, black pepper and savory spice aro- 82 86 light pear and banana aromas. It feels crisp and shear- mas lead this ripe red from Pavlidis. The palate is laced ing, with mildly bitter flavors of citrus and scallion. Ad- with a vanilla note, and the red berry flavors are rich and CHILE ditional bitterness marks the finish. Dangerous Wine easy to like. With its good spice and complex fruit, this Group . —M.S. should pair well with grilled meats and tomato pastas. CHARDONNAY abv: 13% Price: $10 Athenee Importers. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $30 Viña Siegel 2011 Crucero Reserva Char- 87 donnay (Maipo Valley). A bit oily and fleshy Cremaschi Furlotti 2011 Reserva Sauvi- gnon Blanc (Loncomilla Valley). The mel- Boutari 2007 Merlot-Xinomavro Make- on the bouquet, with toasty oak aromas. It feels good, 82 on and apple aromas are slightly dull but harmless. It donikos (Greece). Dried plums, savory spic- with a proper meshing of acidity and body weight. Fla- 85 feels decent, with orange and green-herb flavors. The es and nutmeg aromas lead on this earthy red. On the vors of orange and apple come with oak-based cinna- finish is citric and green. Dangerous Wine Group . palate, tart cherry, dried fruit and tobacco notes give it mon notes, while the finish is tropical, warm and long. —M.S. a rustic character. Pair this with salty cheese and nuts. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12 Terlato Wines International. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $26 Santa Ema 2011 Selected Terroir Char- V Norte 2011 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley). Simple white-fruit aromas of Kourtaki 2009 Vin de Crete Red (Crete). 86 donnay (Maipo Valley). A basic wine, with 82 apple and pear are as good as it gets. Feels slightly wan, Cherry, violet and vanilla aromas are followed white-fruit aromas of apple, pineapple and peach. This 85 with apple and green-herb flavors, finishing a bit bland. by flavors of clove, tobacco, leather and red berry. Spicy feels fresh, with good acidity and satisfying flavors of Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. and bright, this should pair well with lamb, grilled meats melon and mango. It’s composed on the finish but far abv: 13.5% Price: $10 and ripe cheeses. Nestor Imports. —S.K. from elevated or complex. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best abv: 12% Price: $11 Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Viña La Rosa 2011 La Palma Sauvignon Blanc (Cachapoal Valley). Basic citrus and Methymnaeos 2010 Chidiriotiko Made 82 apple aromas lead to a round palate that won’t stay fresh With Organic Grapes (Lesbos). This wine Cono Sur 2011 Chardonnay (Central 84 for much longer. It tastes melony and green, with let- has a spicy character overall, with orange rind, tea and 84 Valley). Fresh apple and pear aromas are ru- tuce flavors and a flat finish. Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S. clove aromas, and flavors of bitter orange, lemon and dimentary but clean, while the palate is lively. Flavors abv: 13% Price: $9 tobacco. A focused red that evokes images of a Victorian of chunky citrus fruits lead to a mild, plump and fleshy gentleman’s library. Neri Wine Cellars. —S.K. feeling finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 39 Arauco 2011 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc it’s lovable for its pure blackberry and complex spice and Santa Rita 2007 Triple C Red Wine (Mai- 81 (Central Valley). This is nearly indistinguish- chocolate flavors. Long and grabby on the finish, with 90 po Valley). For full review see page 11. able from Arauco’s standard 82-point 2011 Sauvignon big tannins. Drink now, or hold through 2020. American abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Blanc, smelling stalky, with zero pungency or varietal Estates Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.S. character. It shows lemony acids, but that’s about all. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Undurraga 2008 Altazor (Maipo Valley). Dangerous Wine Group . —M.S. 90 Fiery on first blush, this then displays aromas abv: 13% Price: $14 O. Fournier 2008 Alfa Centauri Caber- of plum, leather, tobacco and cheesy oak. It feels fresh 92 net Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc-Merlot and not the least bit fat or flabby, with cassis, raspberry, Santa Ema 2011 Selected Terroir Sau- (Maule Valley). This is dense, lusty and attractive olive, cocoa and mint flavors. The finish is composed, 81 vignon Blanc (Maipo Valley). Other than from the beginning, with rich black-fruit, coconut, to- dry and lightly herbal. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, notes of white flowers and green herbs on the nose, this bacco and pine aromas. It feels pure and deep, with rib- Carmenère, Syrah and Carignan. Vision Wine & Spir- wine is all about canned peas and beans. The palate has ald acids that keep the pulse up and push blackberry, its. —M.S. texture and flesh, but the flavors are vegetal. T.G.I.C. plum and savory cured-meat flavors. The finish remains abv: 14% Price: $60 Importers. —M.S. savory and saucy. Drink this Cabernet Franc-Cabernet abv: 13% Price: $9 Sauvignon-Merlot blend now–2017. Fine Estates From Ventisquero 2007 Vertice Apalta Vine- Spain. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 90 yard (Colchagua Valley). Heavy and need- Viña el Aromo 2011 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 14.6% Price: $45 ing air at first, the nose evolves from being dense with an 80 (Maule Valley). This is oily and strained on iodine note to meaty and intriguing. On the palate this the nose and fleshy in the mouth. It tastes herbal and Pargua 2008 Anka (Maipo Valley). This is tannic and mouthfilling but fair on the palate, with quasi weedy, with a matchstick note on the finish. Best 91 is an interesting six-grape blend that’s not like cherry, cassis, tobacco and herb flavors. A note of cassis Buy. —M.S. most other Chilean specimens. It starts with a leath- remains on the finish, which goes out with gusto. San abv: 13% Price: $9 ery note as well as eucalyptus, licorice and lightly minty Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. fruit aromas. It feels cheeky and tannic but mature, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA with baked berry, raisin and chocolate flavors. Dark, ROSÉ spicy and chocolaty until the last remnants of the finish Veramonte 2009 Primus The Blend (Col- chagua Valley). Casa Silva 2011 Carmenère-Syrah Rosé conclude; this needs lots of air to show its best. Global 90 Notes of cassis, cola, cedar, tobacco, lemon and a twinge of eucalyptus comprise the (Colchagua Valley). This starts out pretty Vineyard Importers. —M.S. 83 bouquet on this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, good, with melon and sweetness on the bouquet, but it abv: 14% Price: $22 Carmenère and Merlot. It tastes of cassis, blackberry, feels loud and clumsy on the palate, with citrus as the Chilcas 2009 Red One (Maule Valley). A herb and chocolate; the finish is solid and minty, with sole flavor. Pulpy like grapefruit on the finish, but it’s bit of heat oozes off the bouquet, but it’s most- a suggestion of cigar tobacco. This rocks hard, but with also sweet and fleshy. Vin Divino. —M.S. 90 ly dense and sound, with blueberry, herb, tobacco and abv: 13.5% Price: $14 focus. Drink now–2015. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. cola aromas. It feels tannic and rich, with baked berry, abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Quintay 2011 Q Pinot Noir Rosé (Casa- chocolate, prune and mint flavors. A five-grape Bor- Viña La Rosa 2006 Ossa Sixth Genera- blanca Valley). The punchbowl aromas are deaux blend that’s jammy and New World in style, this 83 tion (Cachapoal Valley). Only 300 cases of fine but don’t dazzle. It feels fresh enough, but tastes a is very ripe and a touch raisiny tasting on the finish. Vici 90 this blend were made, and it’s a jammy wine with plenty bit green and weedy, like strawberries and grass. Solid Wine and Spirits. —M.S. of wood, leather and blackberry notes on the nose. It feeling, but it’s briny on the finish. Montecastelli Selec- abv: 14% Price: $27 feels thick and borderline syrupy, with tastes of baked tions. —M.S. Errazuriz 2009 The Blend Limited Edi- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 black fruits, prunes and molasses. Toasty and black in 90 tion (Aconcagua Valley). An unusual blend flavor on the finish, with chocolaty-oak notes. Drink Montes 2011 Cherub Rosé of Syrah of Mourvèdre, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Grenache, this now. Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S. 82 (Colchagua Valley). Red in color, with non- sports aromas of berry, red licorice and wet animal fur. abv: 14.5% Price: $95 punchy aromas of strawberry and red apple. It feels It feels medium bodied and juicy, with citrusy acids and Viña Requingua 2007 Potro de Piedra heavy and thick, with red fruit flavors that don’t bring flavors of red cherry, plum, raspberry and chocolate. Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon- enough refreshment to the glass. T.G.I.C. Importers. Clean, potent and “red” in nature. Vintus LLC. —M.S. 90 Cabernet Franc (Curicó Valley). A classic Chilean —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Cabernet Sauvignon with aromas of lemon peel, olive Indomita 2009 Zardoz Cabernet Sauvi- and leafy fruit. It shows major structure, tannic frame- 90 gnon (Maipo Valley). A nice follow-up to the work and dry, herbal flavors of cassis and cherry. Long, CABERNETS & BLENDS excellent ’08 Zardoz, this is earthy and roasted smelling, fruity, toasty and just slightly rustic. Drink now–2012. full of cola and berry notes on the nose. It feels round Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. Montes 2009 Alpha M (Santa Cruz). This and smooth, with a mild tannic bite and baked flavors of abv: 14.5% Price: $25 93 is concentrated and stout on the nose, with blackberry, cassis and chocolate. It’s layered feeling on roasted black-fruit aromas bolstered by coconut, tobac- the finish, with a bit of syrupy residue. Laird & Com- Echeverria 2009 Founder’s Selection co and cool-earth accents. The palate is thick, rich and pany. —M.S. 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This layered with black fruit extract and tannin, bearing fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 is slightly exotic in terms of herb and spice aromas and a vors of dark plum, baked blackberry, savory spice and note of coconutty oak. It feels blocky and tannic, but for- BBQ sauce. It’s smooth, deep and long on the finish, Santa Ema 2009 Amplus Cabernet Sau- ward, with flavors of baked berry, cinnamon and choco- with notes of coffee, vanilla and mocha. A monster wine 90 vignon (Peumo). Pure cherry and cassis aro- late. The finish is creamy feeling, oaky and spicy. Drink with class. Drink now through 2018. T.G.I.C. Import- mas carry the bouquet to a juicy and tightly wound pal- now–2014. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S. ers. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. ate that bears cassis, chocolate and toast flavors. This abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $100 hits the spot with a long, lightly herbal and solid finish. Drink now through 2015. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. El Huique 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sau- Estampa 2008 Lacruz (Colchagua Val- abv: 14% Price: $22 89 vignon (Colchagua Valley). Black cherry 92 ley). At first it almost smells too Port-like, but and violet aromas control what amounts to a compact, then peppery spice enters the picture and it takes off. straightforward bouquet. It feels flush and ripe, with And while it weighs a ton and shows some aggression,

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 friendly tannins and a range of dark fruit flavors that Viña Requingua 2010 Toro de Piedra Ventisquero 2009 Queulat Gran Reser- lead to a warm finish with molasses-like richness. Very 88 Reserva Carmenère-Cabernet Sauvignon 87 va Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon nice Cabernet to drink now through 2014. Vidalco In- (Maule Valley). Dense, grapy and rubbery smelling, (Maipo Valley). This is a textbook Chilean Cabernet ternational, LLC. —M.S. but with airing it unveils aromas of violet and blackberry Sauvignon, with red fruit and rubber aromas in front of abv: 14.5% Price: $18 pie. It feels grabby and tannic but healthy, with blueber- flavors of herb, peppery spice and berry fruit. It finishes ry, blackberry and herb flavors. Sweet-tasting oak and a quickly. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. Koyle 2009 Royale Cabernet Sauvignon pinch of green herb define the finish. This is a blend of abv: 14% Price: $15 89 (Colchagua Valley). Solid berry aromas 60% Carmenère and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Puerto blend with notes of mild herb, mocha and sweet oak. Viejo Wines. —M.S. Viña el Aromo 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon The palate has good structure and feel, with creamy, abv: 14% Price: $14 87 (Maule Valley). For full review see page 14. oaky flavors of blackberry, cassis and vanilla. Dry, com- Best Buy. posed and medium-long on the finish, with freshness Viu Manent 2009 La Capilla Single Vine- abv: 13% Price: $9 due to healthy acids. Contains 15% Malbec and Petit 88 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Verdot. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. Valley). Spicy and dry on the nose, this bears stan- Viña Requingua 2010 Toro de Piedra abv: 14.5% Price: $26 dard dark-berry and cassis aromas touched up by a lot 87 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colcha- of oak. It feels grabby and tannic, but pure, with flavors gua Valley). Solid blackberry, cassis and cola aromas Morandé 2007 House of Morand (Maipo of plum, cassis, sweet oak, coffee and toast. It’s oaky on are an invitation to enjoy this straightforward, well- 89 Valley). Stewed, medicinal cherry and plum the finish, with vanilla and spice flavors along with some made Cabernet that’s lively and bouncy, with berry and aromas come with a note of rubber. It feels tight, nar- heat. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. black currant flavors that match the bouquet. Short row and tannic, with superdark flavors of blackberry and abv: 14.5% Price: $25 on complexity but long on fruit. Puerto Viejo Wines. bitter chocolate. Licorice, cola and herb flavors work —M.S. the long, grabby finish. More cellar time won’t hurt this Carmen 2009 Gran Reserva Maipo Alto abv: 14% Price: $14 Cabernet-led blend; drink now–2017. Morande USA. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). —M.S. Plum, berry, raisin and spice aromas lead to a clacky Calina 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cen- abv: 14% Price: $50 mouthfeel, with slightly medicinal-toned flavors of 86 tral Valley). Wild berry and background wet herb, cough syrup, red berry and raisin. A little green animal fur aromas get the nose off to a lively start. This Viña La Rosa 2009 Cuvée Don Reca Lim- and oaky on the finish, but it feels fresh and healthy. feels fresh and juicy, with red plum and berry flavors. 89 ited Release (Cachapoal Valley). Dense Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S. It’s juicy and a little tannic but clean on the tail end. Ca- and lightly herbal on the nose, with hints of cinnamon, abv: 14.3% Price: $15 lina. Best Buy. —M.S. cassis, blackberry and tobacco. It feels powerful but not abv: 13.5% Price: $10 heavy or clumsy, with flavors of cassis, blackberry and Odfjell 2008 Aliara (Central Valley). chocolate. As the wine turns more concentrated and 87 There’s more than a whiff of eucalyptus, olive Casa Silva 2004 Altura (Colchagua Val- syrupy, this shows a candied character on the finish. and herb aromas on the nose, but there’s also a dry berry 86 ley). Opaque to the point that it looks like syr- This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carme- hint underneath. It hits with hard acids and tannins but up. It smells severely of black olive, juniper and green nère and Syrah. Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S. settles, while cherry and plum flavors come across herb- herbs. It feels tannic and tastes fully roasted and herbal, abv: 14.5% Price: $23 al and dry. A sinewy blend of 50% Syrah, 30% Carignan with bitter chocolate on the finish. This is big and bulky; and 20% Malbec. Select Fine Wine. —M.S. the fruit takes a back seat to the wine’s herbal, prickly François Lurton 2009 Gran Araucano abv: 14.5% Price: $40 side. Carmenère-based, with smaller parts of Cabernet 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Vin Divino. —M.S. Reedy on the nose, with notes of pine and juniper to Santa Ema 2008 Rivalta Limited Selec- abv: 14.5% Price: $76 go with tobacco and earthy baked-berry aromas. It feels 87 tion (Cachapoal Valley). This is roasted and lively but clacky, with flavors of vanilla, coconut and sec- meaty smelling. What the nose holds back is revealed on Cono Sur 2010 Organically Grown ondary notes of cassis and berry. The finish is lactic and the palate, which is rugged, aggressive and tight as nails, 86 Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère creamy, with a vanilla note. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. with boisterous plum, berry, menthol and chocolate fla- (Colchagua Valley). A bit fiery on the nose, but it’s abv: 14.5% Price: $35 vors. Coconut and chocolate-mint flavors come up on also smoky and earthy. It feels clacky and zesty, with red the power-packed finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. plum, raspberry and spicy-oak flavors. Warm, toasty and O. Fournier 2010 Urban Maule (Maule abv: 14% Price: $85 regular on the finish, with crisp acidity all the way out 88 Valley). Clear, attractive berry and cherry aro- the back door. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. mas are not complex or pushy, but they are inviting. Undurraga 2010 Aliwen Reserva Caber- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 This is a little scratchy and raspy on the palate, but it 87 net Sauvignon-Carmenère (Rapel Valley). feels fresh, with black fruit flavors supported by a choc- A rich berry aroma and a touch of leafy tomato mark the Cremaschi Furlotti 2010 Reserva Caber- olate accent. Dry, spicy and on the spot for $12. Fine bouquet. Healthy in feel, this has perky acidity and fla- 86 net Sauvignon (Loncomilla Valley). The Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. vors of red plums, mixed herbs, earth and cola. Dry, juicy modest but clean aromas of cherry and raspberry are abv: 14% Price: $12 and solid on the finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. pleasing. It feels scouring but fresh on the palate, with abv: 13.6% Price: $13 jumpy raspberry, plum and mild-peppery flavors. The Viña Bisquertt 2007 Tralca (Colchagua finish is medium in length, with basic flavors. Danger- 88 Valley). This is stalky smelling, with rustic aro- Undurraga 2008 Sibaris Reserva Espe- ous Wine Group . —M.S. mas of roasted berry, leather, tobacco and eucalyptus. 87 cial Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). abv: 13% Price: $12 It’s full in the mouth, with smacking tannins and firm A little murky and muddled on the nose, this has an acids that create a flavor profile of roasted, herbal berry earthy-berry aroma, with a hint of floral-based perfume. Cremaschi Furlotti 2007 Vénere (Lonco- and plum. Bitter chocolate and espresso flavors control It offers acidity and solidity on the palate, which is 86 milla Valley). Pinched aromas of juniper, pine, the peppery, dry finish. This is a blend of Cabernet Sau- backed by standard black-fruit flavors, with undertones eucalyptus and red berry lead to a tight and choppy pal- vignon, Carmenère and Syrah. Prestige Wine Group. of vanilla and raw oak. Very good, but it’s a bit oaky. Vi- ate, bearing herbal flavors of bell pepper, rosemary and —M.S. sion Wine & Spirits. —M.S. dried red fruit. It’s quite dry and leathery on the finish. abv: 14% Price: $70 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 This is a blend of 60% Carmenère, 20% Syrah and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dangerous Wine Group . —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

WineMag.com | 41 El Huique 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon ish. The finish is clacky and citric but clean. Dangerous of dark chocolate, burnt toast and fine herb. Drink now 86 (Colchagua Valley). Aromas of crusty berry, Wine Group . —M.S. –2017. Select Fine Wine. —M.S. olive and juniper mark the nose. It feels dry, solid and abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 15.5% Price: $20 tannic, with racy, slightly fiery flavors of red berries and herbs. A mint note and an oaky, resinous flavor rule the Casa Silva 2008 Quinta Generación (Col- Oveja Negra 2009 Single Vineyard Cari- finish. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.S. 85 chagua Valley). Herbal and raspy on the 90 gnan (Maule Valley). Powerful, pure aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $13 nose, with feral notes and briary red-berry scents. It’s of cherry, cassis and leather stay focused as the wine un- juicy and wild feeling, with briny, herbal plum and rasp- winds. The wine’s body, tannins and acids are in harmo- Koyle 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon berry flavors. It finishes with a zap of blazing acidity. Vin ny, supporting intense flavors of cherry, berry, roasted 86 (Colchagua Valley). Hickory and wood resin Divino. —M.S. meat and chocolate. Chewy on the finish, with sweet are the key aromas that shadow the berry fruit compo- abv: 14% Price: $28 pastry accents. Drink now–2015. Vici Wine and Spir- nents of the nose. It feels round, resiny and a bit heavy, its. —M.S. with berry, cassis, oak and spice flavors. This is generous Cremaschi Furlotti 2008 Edición Limita- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 and sticky on the finish. Right now it’s very oaky, but it 85 da de Familia (Loncomilla Valley). The flo- could improve with time in the bottle. Quintessential ral, candied aromas seem odd for Chile. On the palate Santa Carolina 2009 Dry Farming Cari- Wines. —M.S. this feels powerful and wide, with flavors of floral red 89 gnan (Cauquenes Valley). The nose is jam- abv: 14% Price: $17 berry, kirsch and spiced jam. It feels juicy and high in my and candied smelling, but it finds its stride and de- acidity; the finish lacks some texture. Dangerous Wine livers aromas of licorice, leather and concentrated ber- Maquis 2008 Lien (Colchagua Valley). Group . —M.S. ry after airing. Crisp and fresh in the mouth, this has 86 Powerful from the start, and hard as rocks in abv: 13.5% Price: $27 clacky tannins leading to lightly herbal flavors of to- the mouth, this is also loaded to the brim with dense fla- mato, thyme and wild berry. It shows some warmth on vors of sweet plum and berry that bowl you over more Rios de Chile 2009 Limited Edition Cab- the long, solid finish. Drink now–2015. Carolina Wine than sooth. It wavers between ultrafruity and lusty and 84 ernet Sauvignon (Pirque). Green bell pep- Brands USA. —M.S. rough and rugged. A blend of four Bordeaux grapes plus per is the dominant aroma, and despite the wine show- abv: 15% Price: $15 Syrah. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. ing grip and mouthfeel, the green quality leads the abv: 13.5% Price: $30 charge and does not yield. Additional flavors include Meli 2010 Carignan (Maule Valley). This carob, olive, pepper and black fruit. Winery Direct. 86 has a rubbery, smoky nose, as if it were caught Montes 2010 Limited Selection Cabernet —M.S. between a campfire and a burning tire. Tangy, snappy 86 Sauvignon-Carmenère (Colchagua Val- abv: 14% Price: $16 and grabby around the edges, this also has a resiny, lac- ley). This is roasted, rubbery and murky smelling. It tic oak flavor blanketing the robust berry fruit. It finish- feels chunky, tannic and grabby, with dense berry and Viña La Fortuna 2010 Culpeo Made with es grabby, with raspberry and herb notes. Global Vine- herb flavors. The finish is long and modest in flavor, with 84 Organic Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon yard Importers. —M.S. some warmth. This is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvi- (Curicó Valley). Floral and fruity on the nose, this abv: 14% Price: $15 gnon and 30% Carmenère. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. turns wiry and racy in the mouth. It doesn’t have a lot abv: 14.5% Price: $15 of body or weight, offering angular, lean berry and plum flavors, with a tight, peppery, acidic finish. VinLozano CARMENÈRE Viña el Principal 2010 Calicanto (Mai- Imports. —M.S. Koyle 2009 Royale Carmenère (Colcha- po Valley). The aromas of herbal berry seem abv: 12.5% Price: $10 86 gua Valley). Compact and dark in style, with crusty and roasted. The palate feels round, with herb- 89 notes of shoe polish, coconut, rubber, violet and black- al, burnt flavors of berry fruits surrounded by spice and Gil Ferrer 2009 Gran Reserva Hecho de berry. It feels tannic and mildly abrasive, with black- warmth. It turns toward molasses and syrup on the me- Uvas Orgánicas Cabernet Sauvignon 83 ened, ripe flavors of dark berry fruits backed by a pep- dium-long, powerful finish. This is a blend of Caber- (Maipo Valley). This is gritty smelling, with notes of pery, spice-dominant finish. This blend of Carmenère, net Sauvignon, Carmenère, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. cement and spice. It feels hard and tannic, with narrow Syrah and Cabernet is oaky and big overall. Quintessen- Montecastelli Selections. —M.S. flavors of juniper and herbal berry. Prickly on the finish, tial Wines. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $18 with sandpaper tannins. Bodega del Vino. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $20 Yali 2010 Wetland Winemaker’s Selec- Viu Manent 2010 Gran Reserva Carme- tion Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère Indomita 2009 Duette Single Vineyard 86 nère (Colchagua Valley). This is crusty and (Colchagua Valley). This is meaty, spicy and bold. It Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère (Maipo 89 82 crisp up front, with focused, dusty aromas of wild ber- feels fresh, clean and slightly astringent, with flavors of Valley). Scratchy and dry on the nose, this turns lean ry and herb. It feels textured and authentic, bearing a wild berry and currant that are a bit salinic. The finish and borderline sour in the mouth, with acidity running toasted flavor, with notes of cassis and wild berry. The is round, mossy and full. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sau- the show. Very zesty, with mild oak influence, this is a finish is spicy, peppery, mildly herbal and charred. Bay- vignon and 40% Carmenère. San Francisco Wine Ex- blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Carme- state Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. Best Buy. nère. Laird & Company. —M.S. change. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Errazuriz 2010 Single Vineyard Don Max- Altaïr 2007 Red (Cachapoal Valley). This imiano Estate Carmenère (Aconcagua smells horsy, feral and herbal. Dry, rock-hard CARIGNAN 88 85 Valley). Pointy aromas of juniper, tree bark, pencil lead tannins make it feel rugged in the mouth, and it’s al- Odfjell 2009 Orzada Carignan (Cau- and blackberry come out rough but improve with airing. ready five years old. Bertin Henri Selections. —M.S. quenes Valley). Another fine and dandy old- It feels mildly astringent, with rugged flavors of herbal abv: 14.7% Price: $80 90 vine, dry-farmed Cauquenes Carignan from Odfjell— berry and cola. The finish turns oakier, with coconut and one of the pioneers of this revived Maule varietal wine. vanilla notes rising up. Vintus LLC. —M.S. Arauco 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- Dark and lush on the nose, this is jammed with notes of abv: 14% Price: $21 gnon (Central Valley). A little reedy and 85 berry, mineral, vanilla and smoky, lemony oak. It tastes raspy smelling initially, the wine’s berry aromas soon fleshy, like berry marmalade, and finishes with flavors Odfjell 2010 Orzada Carmenère (Maule take over. It feels fleshy with an acidic offset, while fla- Valley). Massive and dark up front, with gritty vors of plum and red currant come with a dark berry fin- 88 aromas of herb, cola and black olive. It feels chunky,

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 ripe and full bodied, bearing an herbal, minty flavor green, with cheek-blasting tannins. Ararat Import/Ex- scratchy on the palate, with citrusy, reticent flavors of and notes of black fruit, licorice and earth. A chocolate/ port Co. LLC. —M.S. light red fruits and leaves. There’s not much to the fin- carob flavor marks the finish. Select Fine Wine. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 ish. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 François Lurton 2009 Hacienda Arauca- El Huique 2009 Reserve Carmenère (Col- 85 no Alka Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Cremaschi Furlotti 2009 Single Vineyard 87 chagua Valley). A jammy raspberry aroma This is charred smelling, with herbal, jammy, heavy aro- 82 Carmenère (Loncomilla Valley). Unusual comes with a herb note and a pinch of varietal green. mas of mocha, coffee and berry fruit. It feels syrupy and smelling, with blueberry and unfamiliar aromas that The palate is fresh, forward and well balanced, a nice cloying, with heavy extraction, borderline overripeness render the nose not too inviting. Feels jumpy, with home for plum, cherry and herb flavors. On the finish and sweet flavors of brown sugar, mocha, baked black- an herbal flavor and a gritty, grabby finish. Dangerous this is clean and fairly light in body, with some snappi- berry and oak. Warmth and a note of carob dominate Wine Group . —M.S. ness. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.S. the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Koyle 2010 Reserva Carmenère (Colch- Santa Ema 2010 Selected Terroir Carme- MALBEC agua Valley). nère (Cachapoal Valley). 87 Dark, bulky and flush, this has 85 Standard berry, Viu Manent 2010 Gran Reserva Malbec earthy, dense aromas of black fruit, charred meat and plum and herb aromas set up a gummy-feeling palate, (Colchagua Valley). Graham cracker and oak. It feels thick and thorough, with herb and baked- with a berry flavor and a hint of fine herbs. It shows tex- 88 berry aromas make up the ripe bouquet. It feels deep, berry flavors that come with spice and oak-based resin. ture and a black olive flavor on the finish. T.G.I.C. Im- meaty and lush, with roasted flavors of baked fruit, It shows good texture and weight, but also heavy tan- porters. Best Buy. —M.S. cookie and herb. Dry, composed and solid on the fin- nins and a minty-green aftertaste. Quintessential Wines. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 ish, this is an easygoing, healthy effort. Baystate Wine —M.S. & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17 Botalcura 2009 La Porfia Gran Reserva abv: 14% Price: $14 84 Carmenère (Maule Valley). The aromas of Viña La Fortuna 2010 Culpeo Made with black fruit, black olive and herb are solid. Racy and Koyle 2010 Reserva Malbec (Colchagua Organic Grapes Carmenère (Curicó Val- tangy due to pushy acidity, this has berry, herb and va- 87 Valley). This is purple in color, with a saturat- ley). Composed on the nose, this has a berry aroma and nilla flavors. Fresh in feel but basic in flavor. Specialty 87 ed, rubbery aroma that folds in notes of leather, choc- a controlled herbal-olive scent. It feels solid and round, Cellars. —M.S. olate and blackberry. It’s full and lush, with flavors of with berry and herb flavors. The finish shows a hint abv: 14% Price: $NA lemon, grainy oak, coffee and charred black fruit. Dark, of oak and chocolate. VinLozano Imports. Best Buy. oaky and charred on the finish, it needs a lot of air. Pre- —M.S. Casa Silva 2010 Reserva Carmenère dominantly Malbec, with small additions of Syrah and abv: 13% Price: $10 (Colchagua Valley). Plum and berry aromas 84 Cabernet Sauvignon. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. carry a foxy, feral element. It feels full and grabby, with abv: 14% Price: $17 Arauco 2010 Reserva Carmenère (Cen- herbal, spicy flavors of plum and berry. Defined by its tral Valley). 86 The sweet black-fruit aromas have average length and flavors of pepper, green and black Apaltagua 2011 Reserva Malbec (Maule a mossy edge as well as a mild green note of mint. Big on olives, and green herbs, this is old-school Carmenère. Valley). This offers aromas of feral berry, the palate, this has a standard mix of tea, herb and berry Vin Divino. —M.S. 86 black olive and bell pepper followed by a black fruit fla- flavors. Short and shy on the finish, but overall this is abv: 14% Price: $12 vor that’s touched by a herbal note. It starts out better easy to drink. Dangerous Wine Group . —M.S. than it finishes. Global Vineyard Importers. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $14 Cremaschi Furlotti 2010 Reserva Carme- —M.S. nère (Loncomilla Valley). This is chunky and 84 abv: 14% Price: $11 Carmen 2009 Gran Reserva Apalta Vine- mossy on the nose, then thick and chewy in the mouth. yard Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). 86 A lit- It tastes of blueberry and herb, with a rubbery note on Viña La Fortuna 2010 Culpeo Made with tle burnt and gritty on the bouquet, with notes of herbs the finish. A meaty quality runs throughout. Dangerous Organic Grapes Malbec (Curicó Valley). and red fruits lurking in the background. It tastes “red” Wine Group . —M.S. 86 The cola and blackberry aromas are earthy and meaty. It and acidic, with a salty red-fruit flavor and a crisp finish abv: 13% Price: $12 feels snappy and a bit shrill due to forced acidity, while that inserts a touch of raisin to the overall picture. Trin- the flavors of black fruit and cocoa are standard. Not chero Family Estates. —M.S. Millaman 2010 Limited Reserve Carme- complex or elevated, but it’s well made for the price. abv: 14% Price: $15 nère (Maule Valley). Rather heavy and green 84 VinLozano Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. on the bouquet, with olive, raisin and herbal aromas. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Viña el Aromo 2010 Carmenère (Maule Tannic in the mouth, this has a beam of acidity that Valley). Best Buy. 86 For full review see page 14. keeps it moving forward. It’s herbal, fruity and loaded Casa Silva 2010 Reserva Malbec (Colch- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 with green and black olive flavors. The finish is quick agua Valley). Raisiny and somewhat overripe, and oaky. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. 83 with cola and prune-like aromas. It feels wide and tan- Calina 2010 Carmenère (Central Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 nic, with grapy, herbal flavors of prune and molasses. ley). Murky, earthy aromas mark the nose—a 85 The finish is thick, warm and syrupy. Vin Divino. —M.S. blend of tomato, herb and meat notes. It feels good, Viña el Aromo 2010 Private Reserve Car- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 with herbal-berry flavors and grapy thickness. It finishes 84 menère (Maule Valley). The nose is prickly with a flash of acidity, a note of coconutty oak and a final and peppery, which isn’t atypical for the variety. It feels herbal blast. Calina. Best Buy. —M.S. decent, maybe a little hard and gritty, with herbal-ber- MERLOT abv: 13.5% Price: $10 ry flavors touched up by vanilla. The finish shows mild warmth, with coffee, toast, herb notes. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Lapostolle 2009 Cuvée Alexandre - Apal- Echeverria 2010 Reserva Carmenère —M.S. 88 ta Vineyard Merlot (Colchagua Valley). 85 (Curicó Valley). Compact and herbal on the abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Berry, brown sugar and prune aromas are nice, while nose, this has hints of plastic and wet cement. It feels the palate is tannic, with a rugged mouthfeel that should tannic and cheeky, with varietal flavors of tomato, oreg- Chilcas 2010 Reserva Carmenère (Maule be softened by hearty foods. This tastes of plum and ano, herb and berry. The finish is lightly herbal and 83 Valley). Not overtly green smelling, but this- deals herbal aromas of olive and eucalyptus. Lean and

WineMag.com | 43 dark berry, while the finish is oaky, chocolaty, spicy and Casa Silva 2009 Angostura Gran Reserva tive aromas of blueberry, cardamom and sandalwood strong. Marnier-Lapostolle. —M.S. 82 Merlot (Colchagua Valley). This is charred get this Syrah off on the right foot. It feels concentrated abv: 14.2% Price: $25 and burnt smelling, with a rubbery, hickory aroma that and jacked up, with fully ripe, creamy flavors of black- covers up the wine’s cherry and berry scents. The palate berry, cassis and pastry. This is a chewy, layered, dense Viña Siegel 2010 Crucero Merlot (Colch- bears flavors of raspberry, pie cherry and green herb, and jammy New World Syrah ready to drink now–2014. 87 agua Valley). Cherry and black fruit aromas finishing quick as a flash, with tannic residue. Vin Di- Marnier-Lapostolle. —M.S. are capped by a rubbery note. It feels juicy and fresh, vino. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 with raspberry, red plum and vanilla flavors. Drying but abv: 14% Price: $22 fresh and nice on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils.Best Polkura 2009 Syrah (Colchagua Val- Buy. —M.S. 91 ley). Aromas of graphite, black fruit and herb abv: 13.5% Price: $10 PINOT NOIR mark this powerful, forward, extracted Syrah. The pal- ate drills away with tannins and fruit, while the flavors Chilcas 2010 Reserva Pinot Noir (Maule Chilcas 2010 Reserva Merlot (Maule Val- run toward blackberry, herb and earthy spice. Dark and Valley). This cool-vintage wine has snappy red- ley). Berry and crisp currant aromas make up 88 dense on the finish, with licorice and pepper flavors, this 86 plum and raspberry aromas. Fresh and pure, the pal- the bouquet. It shows racy acidity and moderate sharp- is ready to drink now–2014. Wine Markets Internation- ate bears red berry flavors, with plum and apple skin ness on the palate along with solid berry flavors. Tangy, al, Inc. —M.S. notes. The finish is marked with a mellow spice note. lively and fresh on the finish. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Vici Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Casa Silva 2009 Gran Reserva Lolol Syr- Ventisquero 2009 Grey [Glacier] Single ah (Colchagua Valley). This is a touch foxy Montes 2010 Alpha Pinot Noir (Casablan- 89 Block Merlot (Colchagua Valley). Raisin, and feral on the nose, but overall it’s an attractive, ag- 86 ca Valley). Snappy red-berry aromas are true black plum and modest spice aromas set up a full and 87 gressive wine, with sweaty leather and animal leanings to the variety, but there’s also a leathery, roasted stalk- tannic palate, with flavors of blackberry, molasses and but also a lot of solid fruit and power. It feels round, iness to the nose. It feels round, chunky and creamy, resiny oak. Raisin and brown sugar flavors dominate the with a herbal flavor and a cookie note, and a long, juicy with baked berry and toasted flavors. It finishes round, finish on this structured, fairly high-acid Merlot. San and toasty finish. Vin Divino. —M.S. full and creamy in feel, with a peppery note. T.G.I.C. Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Ventisquero 2007 Pangea Apalta Vine- Casa Silva 2009 Reserva Merlot (Colcha- yard Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Blocky on Undurraga 2010 T.H. Pinot Noir (Leyda 89 gua Valley). A solid effort, with cherry and red the nose and a touch cheesy and leathery smelling, with 85 Valley). This is spunky and prickly smelling, currant aromas. The palate bears scratchy tannins and 87 gritty berry aromas and balsamic notes. It feels tight, which is normal for coastal Leyda Pinot Noirs. It feels flavors of raspberry and red plum, with mild, dry and wiry and powerful, with peppery, minty, spicy flavors juicy and medium in body, with racy, tangy flavors of crisp finish. This should pair well with basic foods. Vin lending character to the fruit. This finishes toasty and raspberry, rhubarb, earth and spice. Zesty, edgy and Divino. —M.S. peppery, with a hint of warmth. San Francisco Wine Ex- tight as a whole. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14 change. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Cuevas del Sur 2010 Reserve Merlot Bodega Volcanes de Chile 2010 Tectoni- (Curicó Valley). The briary red-berry and Viu Manent 2009 El Olivar Alto Single 85 ca Pinot Noir (Bío Bío Valley). Light cherry plum aromas are earthy and rubbery. This is medium 86 Vineyard Syrah (Colchagua Valley). This notes are, for the most part, clean but modest in intensi- 88 in body and a bit heavy, with just-adequate acidity and is rustic, with notes of roasted berry, smoked meat, ty. It feels tangy but with a creamy, buttery oak element, solid flavors of plum, berry and resiny oak. The finish is leather and dried cheese on the bouquet. It feels tannic while red plum and raspberry notes work the base level. oaky and medicinal tasting. Carbe LLC. —M.S. and pushy, with herbal, wild flavors of dark berry, herb Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 and roasted meat. Slightly warm and herbal, the finish abv: 13% Price: $25 lasts. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. Viña La Fortuna 2010 Culpeo Made with Echeverria 2010 Reserva Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Organic Grapes Merlot (Curicó Valley). 85 (Maule Valley). Citric smelling, with lean red- Dark in color, this delivers black fruit aromas along with 85 berry scents and no shortage of tropical aromas, par- a toasty note. While it’s slightly hollow in the middle, it’s CALIFORNIA ticularly pineapple. Solid in the mouth, with red berry wide around the edges, tasting of mossy blackberry and flavors and mild chocolaty-oak accents. Ararat Import/ herb. The finish is toasty, big and grabby. VinLozano Export Co. LLC. —M.S. CHARDONNAY Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $10 Dutton-Goldfield 2010 Dutton Ranch 97 Rued Vineyard Chardonnay (Green Val- Cremaschi Furlotti 2010 Reserva Merlot SYRAH ley). For full review see page 3. 83 (Loncomilla Valley). The bouquet is hard, abv: 13.5% Price: $50 carrying a mild chemical note along with a hickory aro- Errazuriz 2009 La Cumbre Syrah (Acon- ma. Medium to light in body, with berry flavors blended 92 cagua Valley). This is the third consecutive Rochioli 2010 South River Vineyard with a woody spice note. Minty and medicinal on the year this wine has been rated 92 points. It is dense and 97 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). A finish. Dangerous Wine Group . —M.S. potent, with aromas of cola, pencil lead and wild berry. spectacular Chardonnay—this is dazzingly beautiful abv: 13% Price: $12 It feels smooth, polished and finessed, with cola, vanilla, and mesmerizing in its appeal. The complexity of flavor baking spice and vibrant black-fruit flavors. It finishes stuns, offering tiers of pineapples, oranges, green apples Cremaschi Furlotti 2009 Single Vineyard with licorice, toast and cola notes. Drink now–2017. and golden mangoes. Then the oaky influences appear 83 Merlot (Loncomilla Valley). Earthy berry, Vintus LLC. —M.S. in the form of buttered toast and caramel, with a sug- lemony oak and horseradish aromas in the nose. Clacky abv: 14.5% Price: $120 gestion of honey. The finish is dry and crisp in acidity. and tight on the palate, this has beastly tannins in front of Editors’ Choice. —S.H. modest red-berry and plum flavors. Rough in feel, with Lapostolle 2009 Cuvée Alexandre Las abv: 14.5% Price: $60 warmth on the finish. Dangerous Wine Group . —M.S. 91 Kuras Vineyard Made with Organic abv: 14% Price: $17 Grapes Syrah (Cachapoal Valley). Exotic, attrac-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Rochioli 2010 Sweetwater Vineyard go juice. Oak and lees aging lend a creamy, sourdough Williams Selyem 2010 Unoaked Char- 95 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). One richness. Drink now. —S.H. 91 donnay (Russian River Valley). For full re- word describes this Chardonnay: fabulous. It’s really abv: 13.9% Price: $48 view see page 9. everything a California Chardonnay can deliver. Ripe abv: 12.9% Price: $37 tropical fruit, pear, green apple and honey flavors are Iron Horse 2010 Rued Clone Chardon- wrapped into buttery, smoky oak. The richness is bright- 93 nay (Green Valley). This is a beautiful Char- Bernardus 2010 Rosella’s Vineyard ened by crisp acidity and a touch of minerals, showing donnay—dry, sleek and refined. Beyond the subtle 90 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). its pedigree with every nuance. Drink soon, to enjoy its tropical fruit, citrus and green apple flavors is a steely This shows the rich, ripe, opulent fruit that always ac- youthful beauty. —S.H. minerality and lemony acidity that get the mouth water- companies the Chardonnays of this vineyard. Spicy, tart abv: 14.5% Price: $60 ing. Drink now. —S.H. pineapples, oranges and mangoes are the flavors, with a abv: 13.7% Price: $48 jacket of sweet, smoky oak. The acidity is bright, giving Joseph Carr 2009 Dijon Clone Chardon- it balance. Drink now. —S.H. 94 nay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2010 Gold abv: 14.4% Price: $40 page 5. Editors’ Choice. 93 Ridge Hills Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). abv: 13.9% Price: $18 This winery has a good track record for producing rich, Frei Brothers 2010 Reserve Chardonnay opulent Chardonnays. The cool 2010 vintage was ben- 90 (Russian River Valley). For full review see Rochioli 2010 Rachael’s Vineyard Char- eficial, yielding a low alcohol wine with extraordinarily page 10. Editors’ Choice. 94 donnay (Russian River Valley). A brilliant rich tropical fruit flavors and bright, graceful acidity. It abv: 13.9% Price: $20 Chardonnay. It’s powerful and ripe in fruit, offering a saw a majority of new French oak, lending it a note of blast of pineapple, green apple, Key lime pie and Meyer buttered toast, but the underlying wine is so big, it easily Gundlach Bundschu 2010 Estate Vine- lemon tart flavors, accented with the buttered toast of handles that weight. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 90 yard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is oak. As intense as the fruit is, it’s balanced by keen acid- abv: 13.8% Price: $30 fresh and lively, with crisp coastal acidity, elegance and ity and a stony minerality. Defines the elegant, opulent sophistication. It offers oak-inspired citrus, tropical fruit Russian River style. —S.H. Iron Horse 2010 Native Yeast Chardon- and mineral flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $72 92 nay (Green Valley). This is a clean, elegant abv: 14.2% Price: $27 and complex wine, brisk in acidity and dry in citrus and Carte Blanche 2009 Chardonnay (So- tropical fruit flavors. —S.H. Longoria 2010 Cuvée Diana Chardon- 93 noma Coast). For full review see page 5. Cel- abv: 14.1% Price: $48 90 nay (Sta. Rita Hills). While there isn’t much lar Selection. subtlety, this is a strong wine, offering dry, oak-inspired abv: 14.2% Price: $75 Iron Horse 2010 UnOaked Chardonnay pineapple- and orange-jam flavors. Crisp acids and 92 (Green Valley). For full review see page 7. a touch of steely minerals help to ground it. It shows Clos Pegase 2010 Mitsuko’s Vineyard abv: 13.8% Price: $27 enough elegance to drink with the finest foods. —S.H. 93 Chardonnay (Carneros). Enormously ripe abv: 14.4% Price: $36 and rich—this is honeyed, with citrus and tropical fruit Kokomo 2010 Peters Vineyard Chardon- flavors. It’s creamy, too, with a butterscotch accent. The 92 nay (Russian River Valley). This shows a Rochioli 2010 River Block Chardonnay magic comes on the finish with a swirl of acidity and dry fine balance of citrus and tropical fruit richness with a 90 (Russian River Valley). Rich and fine, this is mineral. Decadent but never cloying, this defines the firm minerality, and the oak is pleasantly in the back- extraordinarily decadent. Flavors of pineapple, mango, ripe California style. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ground. A touch of lees character gives it a Champagne- crème brûlée, buttered toast, honey and spicy oak are abv: 14.2% Price: $28 like doughiness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. wrapped in a note of vanilla cream, and brightened with abv: 14.4% Price: $28 crisp acidity. A bit heavy and seemingly sweet, this is Firestone 2010 Reserve Chardonnay showing its best now. —S.H. 93 (Santa Ynez Valley). This is arguably Fires- Saintsbury 2010 Unfiltered Chardonnay abv: 14.5% Price: $60 tone’s best Chardonnay in many years—maybe ever. It’s 92 (Carneros). There’s a bit of oak here, but not rich, creamy and powerful in Chardonnay flavor, flood- too much, giving a smoky, buttered toast richness to the Silverado 2010 Estate Grown Chardon- ing the mouth with flavors of ripe tropical fruit, apri- orange, lime and pineapple fruit. It’s a rich, flashy Char- 90 nay (Carneros). For full review see page 11. cot, buttered toast, vanilla cream and spice. Editors’ donnay, with crisp acidity and a clean, spicy finish. Edi- abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Choice. —S.H. tors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Stubbs Vineyard 2009 Chardonnay 90 (Marin County). This shows its cool-climate Iron Horse 2010 Corral Vineyard Char- Firestone 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Ynez origins thanks to the brisk acidity and keen minerality 93 donnay (Green Valley). A beautiful wine, 91 Valley). For full review see page 8. Editors’ that accompany the orange, peach and oak flavors. It’s this is rich in citrus, tropical fruit and green apple fla- Choice. elegant and rich, but don’t drink it too cold. —S.H. vors, with a smoky jacket of oak. The acids and tannins abv: 14.2% Price: $17 abv: 14.3% Price: $36 lift it above the ordinary, as does a stony minerality that tastes of the soil. —S.H. Hess Collection 2009 Chardonnay Armida 2011 Chardonnay (Russian Riv- abv: 13.6% Price: $48 91 (Mount Veeder). This is a very opulent Char- 89 er Valley). Oak, acidity and tropical fruit com- donnay, the kind fans of the variety will like for its array prise this dry Chardonnay. It’s one of Armida’s better Iron Horse 2010 Estate Chardonnay of orange, pineapple, vanilla cream, buttered toast and efforts, showing ripe, flashy mango, buttered toast and 93 (Green Valley). For full review see page 6. spice flavors. The honeyed finish is especially long and mineral flavors that finish bright and spicy. —S.H. Editors’ Choice. rich. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $25 abv: 13.7% Price: $28 abv: 14.6% Price: $35 Armida 2010 Durrell Vineyard Chardon- Iron Horse 2010 Heritage Clone Char- Nickel & Nickel 2010 Truchard Vineyard 89 nay (Sonoma Coast). This is a flashy Char- 93 donnay (Green Valley). Beautiful, classic 91 Chardonnay (Carneros). For full review see donnay that’s meant to impress. Big, oaky and ripe, this Green Valley Chardonnay, this shows bright, mouth- page 8. bears opulent waves of mangoes, papayas and apricots, watering acidity and a steely minerality that make it sa- abv: 14.3% Price: $50 with notes of buttered toast and sweet caramel. Not par- vory and elegant. But there’s also a deep, flavorful core ticularly subtle, but a crowd pleaser. —S.H. of green apple butter, pineapple jam and orange-man- abv: 14.2% Price: $40

WineMag.com | 45 Armida 2010 Dutton Ranch - Mill Station J. Lohr 2010 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay character that often characterizes Napa Chardonnay, 89 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River 88 (Arroyo Seco). For full review see page 12. giving the pineapple and orange flavors an earthiness. Valley). A rich Chardonnay—this is packed with apri- abv: 14.9% Price: $25 It’s very dry and crisp in acidity, but it ultimately trades cot, orange jam, buttered toast and spice flavors that are opulence for elegance. Drink now. —S.H. wrapped into a creamy texture. It’s a dry wine, boosted Leese-Fitch 2010 Chardonnay (Califor- abv: NA Price: $40 with bright, citrusy acidity. —S.H. 88 nia). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. . abv: 13.4% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Schug 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). 87 Rich in tropical fruit, apricot and pear flavors, Bernardus 2010 Sierra Mar Vineyard Schug 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma with a buttery, creamy texture, this is a satisfying Char- 89 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). 88 Coast). There are lots of pineapple, peach and donnay made in the popular style. Brisk acidity makes it Sweet, smoky oak and ultraripe flavors of tropical fruits buttered toast flavors in this opulent wine, brightened clean and balanced. —S.H. mark this Chardonnay. It’s strong and obvious in its ap- by crisp acidity. It has a purity of fruit that makes it at- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 peal, but bright acidity and a stony minerality ground it, tractive. —S.H. and the finish is thoroughly dry. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Smart Cookie 2010 Chardonnay (Cen- abv: 14.7% Price: $40 87 tral Coast). This is a full-bodied, creamy and Tolosa 2010 No Oak Chardonnay (Cen- voluptuous Chardonnay, bearing notes of wet stone and Bryter 2010 Affiné Split Rock Vineyard 88 tral Coast). This really gets the tastebuds ripe yellow apple, with a tinge of vanilla on the finish. 89 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Marked by whistling, with brisk acidity that brightens the lemon, —V.B. strong acidity and minerality, this is an austere Char- lime and orange flavors. Even though it’s rich in honey abv: 13% Price: $13 donnay for drinking now. With a citrus flavor and a dry, flavor, it finishes dry. —S.H. honeyed richness, this sits on the elegant side of the abv: 14.2% Price: $19 Spellbound 2010 Chardonnay (Califor- Chardonnay spectrum. —S.H. 87 nia). Winemaker Rob Mondavi, Jr. sourced abv: 14% Price: $31 Topel 2010 Reserve Classique Chardon- Chardonnay grapes from predominantly Lodi for this 88 nay (Mendocino). Lightly perfumed with lightly aromatic, balanced wine. It opens with a big taste Jeff Gordon 2010 Leo Chardonnay honeysuckle, this Chardonnay has good weight and bal- of ripe golden apples and vanilla, and a slightly tropical 89 (Carneros). A very good Chardonnay, with ance, with a layer of minerality that gives it a boost. With finish. —V.B. oak-enhanced citrus and peach flavors. It’s dry and quite full oak-aged flavors of butter and cream, the wine still abv: 13.5% Price: $15 acidic, biting into the tongue and making the tastebuds tastes fresh and has a bite of spice on the finish. —V.B. whistle. Made in a leaner style, it will appeal to fans of abv: 14.2% Price: $35 Wild Horse 2010 Chardonnay (Central Chablis-style Chardonnays. —S.H. 87 Coast). This is a rewarding wine, with flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $45 B.R. Cohn 2010 Sangiacomo Vine- of orange and pineapple. It finishes with a honeyed 87 yard Chardonnay (Carneros). This is big minerality. —S.H. Schug 2010 Heritage Reserve Chardon- and strongly flavored. It has a ton of ripe, zingy apri- abv: 13.9% Price: $17 89 nay (Carneros). Strong, ripe fruit and oak cot, mango and orange flavors wrapped into a buttery, characterize this opulent young Chardonnay. It’s flavors creamy texture. —S.H. Girasole Vineyards 2010 Chardon- of pineapples, oranges and mangoes are rich, dry, hon- abv: 14.4% Price: $35 86 nay (Mendocino). Packaged in an attrac- eyed and accented with a note of buttered toast. Drink tive sunflower-adorned screwcap bottle, this Char- now. —S.H. Clos La Chance 2009 Chardonnay (Santa donnay made from organic grapes is light, bright and abv: 14% Price: $35 87 Cruz Mountains). Made in the popular Char- straightforward—tasting of lemon, lime and kiwi—with donnay style, this shows buttered toast, buttercream, barely any oak influence. —V.B. Wellington 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma pineapple, mango and exotic spice flavors. Drink this abv: 13.5% Price: $13 89 Valley). This is really easy to like for its rich rich wine now. —S.H. tropical-fruit, apple and peach flavors; buttery, creamy abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Martin Ray 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay texture; vibrant acidity; and the delicious coating of 86 (Los Carneros). The fruit sure is ripe in this smoky oak. Appeals immediately to the senses. This is Conway 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay. It bursts with pineapples, limes and apri- easily Wellington’s best Chardonnay in a decade. —S.H. 87 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). cots, with bright, brisk acidity. The finish is entirely dry. abv: 13.8% Price: $20 This is very rich, ripe and oaky, but a little over the top, —S.H. with strong flavors of buttered toast, caramel, orange abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Bernardus 2010 Soberanes Vine- jam and spice. An outgoing wine crafted in the popular 88 yard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High- style. —S.H. Rock Wall 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Lu- lands). There’s lots of citrusy acidity in this abv: 14.9% Price: $40 86 cia Highlands). A pretty good Chardonnay vineyard-designated Chardonnay, giving it the fresh bite made to appeal to consumer’s who relish the popular of a green apple, pineapple and Meyer lemon. This is Joseph Carr 2010 Josh Chardonnay style. It’s rich and creamy, with pineapple jam, orange pleasantly rich and creamy, with oak aging imparting a 87 (North Coast). Big, rich and oaky, this is and mango juice and buttered toast flavors. —S.H. buttered toast note. —S.H. marked by buttered toast, orange cream and pineapple abv: 13.6% Price: $25 abv: 14.4% Price: $40 custard flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 Rock Wall 2010 Reserve Chardonnay Freeman 2010 Ryo-Fu Chardonnay (Rus- 86 (Russian River Valley). This delivers what 88 sian River Valley). Everything in this wine Pech Merle 2010 Chardonnay (Russian many American consumers want in a Chardonnay. It’s is strong and obvious: With its powerful tropical fruit, 87 River Valley). Creamy, rich and spicy, this has creamy, buttery and seemingly sweet, with candied sweet oak and intense finish, this is what many Ameri- potent pineapple- and orange-jam flavors, with lots of pineapple and orange flavors. —S.H. cans like in Chardonnay. But as impressive as the wine- the sweetly buttered toast you get from oak barrel ag- abv: 14.2% Price: $35 maker’s art is here, the flash is all on the surface. Drink ing. It seems a little sweet in the finish, but it’s elegant up. —S.H. and refined. —S.H. Dahlia 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey abv: 14.1% Price: $44 abv: 14.6% Price: $24 85 County). This shows simple flavors of orange and apricot juice wrapped into a creamy texture that Saintsbury 2009 Brown Ranch Chardon- 87 nay (Carneros). This shows the dried herb

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 seemingly finishes slightly sweet. The best thing is the Clos La Chance 2011 Chardonnay (Mon- orange, apricot and honey flavors, but with even greater acidity, which is brisk and stimulating. —S.H. 82 terey County). This is very acidic, like a taste elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 of sour lemon. The flavors are of lemon cough drops, abv: 12.5% Price: $19 and the finish is dry. —S.H. Franciscan 2010 Cuvée Sauvage Char- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Seghesio 2011 Pinot Grigio (Sonoma 85 donnay (Carneros). This bottling has a 89 County). Pinot Grigio can be made in almost creamy texture, with pleasant, simple flavors of citrus Oak Grove 2011 Reserve Chardonnay any style, but Seghesio nails the dry, elegant approach. and buttery oak. —S.H. 82 (California). An ordinary Chardonnay—this is This is a terrific wine, mouthwateringly tart, and the abv: 14.5% Price: $40 dryish and soft, bearing orange and apricot flavors, with lime flavor is satisfying. Unoaked, this is so versatile, you a hit of buttercream. —S.H. can drink it with almost anything calling for a dry white, Lafond 2009 Lafond Vineyard Chardon- abv: 13% Price: $8 or all by itself as an apéritif. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 85 nay (Sta. Rita Hills). This tastes very oaky, abv: 12.7% Price: $22 with notes of buttered toast and sweet, smoky butter- Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2011 scotch dominating the apricot and orange fruit. —S.H. 82 Lightly Oaked Chardonnay (California). Horse & Plow 2011 McFadden Farm Pi- abv: 14.3% Price: $38 This is lightly oaked, with pleasant Chardonnay flavors 88 not Gris (Mendocino). Steely and creamy at of oranges, limes and mangoes. However, it’s too sweet, the same time, this is no shy Pinot Gris. It’s got body and Longwood 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Val- with a sugary finish that makes it cloying. —S.H. heft from its time spent in 100% French oak (none of 85 ley). Elegance, not opulence, marks this Char- abv: 12.5% Price: $8 it new), and tastes perfectly in balance, with delightful donnay. It’s very dry and acidic, with citrus, herb and notes of honeysuckle, apricot and honey. This is a small toast flavors. Don’t look here for a big, fat, buttery, ripe production made from certified-organic grapes. —V.B. style, because you won’t find it. —S.H. GEWÜRZTRAMINER abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Arista 2011 Ferrington Vineyard Gewürz- Three Pears 2011 Pinot Gris (California). traminer (Anderson Valley). If you haven’t Valley of the Moon 2011 Unoaked Char- 90 For full review see page 14. Best Buy. tried a California Gewürztraminer lately, give this one 88 donnay (Russian River Valley). With no abv: 13% Price: $10 85 a spin. Grown in a fine vineyard, it shows the exotic oak aging, this Chardonnay stands all by itself. It’s de- spice, tropical fruit and floral flavors of the variety that fined by brisk acidity and ripe flavors of tangerine, Double Decker 2010 Pinot Grigio (Cali- pair so well with today’s international fare. It has brisk peach and lime pie. —S.H. fornia). A great apéritif, this is bone dry and acidity and straddles the delicate line between dry and 87 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 tart in acidity. It really gets those tastebuds whistling, off-dry. —S.H. with some good lime, grapefruit, lemongrass and honey abv: 14.1% Price: $28 3 Steves Winery 2008 Chardonnay flavors.Best Buy. —S.H. (Livermore Valley). Dark golden in color, this abv: 13% Price: $10 84 Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch- smells sweet—like caramel and toffee—which follows Green Valley Vineyard Gewürztraminer in taste. It’s high in alcohol and oak influence. —V.B. 90 Muscardini 2010 Santo Giordano Vine- (Green Valley). This is technically dry, but rich in abv: 15.5% Price: $22 yards Pinot Grigio (Sonoma Valley). This sweet flavor—like a gingerbread cookie. There’s also 87 is likeable for its dryness and the burst of lemony acidity a lot of tangerine and pear fruit. The acidity is just Cannonball 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma that makes it so invitingly crisp. The flavors are subtle fine, giving the richness a bracing quality. Try pairing County). This tastes like an orange, peach and and rich, suggesting Meyer lemon, white peach and a 84 this with a lightly sugared fruit tart, although it should guava breakfast fruit drink—sweet and tart in acidity. It lick of vanilla bean. —S.H. also go with a vast range of foods, especially Asian fare. has some warmth from the alcohol. —S.H. abv: 12.3% Price: $24 abv: 13.7% Price: $16 —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 Oak Grove 2011 Reserve Pinot Grigio Grove Ridge 2010 Chardonnay (Califor- (California). For full review see page 14. Best Gundlach Bundschu 2011 Estate Vine- 87 nia). A simple but effective Chardonnay. It gets Buy. 84 yard Gewürztraminer (Sonoma Coast). the basics right, with apricot, pear and orange juice fla- 89 abv: 13% Price: $8 vors, with a touch of buttercream. —S.H. This shows the variety’s delicious spiciness, as well as abv: 13% Price: $10 ripened pear and honeysuckle flavors. Treading that Parducci 2010 Small Lot Blend Pinot fine line between dry and off-dry, it’s an exotic accom- 86 Gris (Mendocino County). This is a straight- Happy Camper 2011 Chardonnay (Cali- paniment to Vietnamese, Ethiopean and Indian foods. forward Pinot Gris with a handful of Muscat Canelli, 84 fornia). The main thing to know about this —S.H. which lends it some sweetness. There are pleasant notes Chardonnay is that it’s overtly sweet. The fruit is good, abv: 14.2% Price: $22 of stone fruit throughout. This would be thoroughly the acidity is clean, but it’s anything but dry. —S.H. enjoyable on a summer afternoon—either on its own or Armida 2011 Frank Johnson Vineyards abv: 13% Price: $9 with crudités. Best Buy. —V.B. Gewürztraminer (Dry Creek Valley). An 87 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Ugly Duckling 2011 Chardonnay (Califor- off-dry wine, this has some sugary flavors that accom- 84 nia). There’s not much richness to the peach pany the peach, lemon custard, vanilla bean and exotic Bota Box 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). and orange flavors in this Chardonnay. But it’s nicely spice flavors, but they’re balanced and brightened by a 85 For full review see page 15. Best Buy. dry and crisp in acidity, which lends it a sort of clean gorgeous bite of acidity. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $20/3 L elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $12 Delicato 2011 Domino Pinot Grigio (Cali- 85 fornia). For full review see page 15. Best Buy. Main Street 2010 Chardonnay (Santa PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO abv: 13% Price: $7 83 Barbara County). This is a simple, thin Char- Longoria 2011 Pinot Grigio (Santa Bar- donnay. It shows proper dryness, with a creamy texture 91 bara County). Rick Longoria shows increas- Francis Coppola 2011 Diamond Collec- and some decent pineapple and peach flavors. —S.H. ing mastery over this popular variety, lifting it into true 85 tion Pinot Grigio (California). Sugary sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $10 complexity. After an outstanding 2010 vintage, his 2011 and simple, like an apricot, orange and mango fruit juice is even better, showing the same crisp acidity and savory drink. The alcohol lends body and warmth. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

WineMag.com | 47 Montevina 2010 Pinot Grigio (California). Mayacamas 2010 Sauvignon Blanc zesty acidity, its flavors veer toward pineapples, limes, 85 For full review see page 15. Best Buy. 91 (Mount Veeder). A terrific Sauvignon Blanc, melons and vanilla. This should be versatile with all abv: 13.5% Price: $10 this is Mayacamas’s best in years. Bone dry and rich in kinds of foods. Best Buy. —S.H. mouthwatering acidity, it shows subtle layers of lemons, abv: 13.5% Price: $11 White Truck 2009 Pinot Grigio (Califor- limes, oranges and spices, with a bitter grassiness that 84 nia). Very soft, almost melted, with sweet or- gives it a perfect bite. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Clos Pegase 2010 Mitsuko’s Vineyard ange, butter and spice flavors. Pretty easygoing, but lots abv: 13.9% Price: $25 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Carneros). This bottling of people should like it. —S.H. has been pretty consisent over the years, offering plenty abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Horse & Plow 2011 Preston Vineyard of ripe, spicy fruit and brisk Carneros acidity, with some 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). This complexity. It has rich flavors of lemon, lime, pineapple, Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2011 Pi- is a wonderful wine that’s dryish and vital in acidity, exotic tropical fruit and savory spice. —S.H. 81 not Grigio (California). A soft, simple wine, with savory Meyer lemon, grapefruit, lemongrass, apri- abv: 14.1% Price: $20 with apricot and orange flavors that are quite sweet. Un- cot and vanilla flavors. A touch of oak brings a buttered less you like this style, you’ll find it cloying. —S.H. toast richness. Only 260 cases were produced. Editors’ Firestone 2010 Barrel Select Sauvignon abv: 12% Price: $8 Choice. —S.H. 87 Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Zingy acidity abv: 13.9% Price: $20 gives a boost to the citrus, tropical fruit and honey fla- vors of this Sauvignon Blanc. Without that tartness, it RIESLING Twomey 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa might seem too sweet. —S.H. Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Chileno Valley 90 County-Sonoma County). This is an excellent abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Vineyard Riesling (Marin County). The follow-up to the fine 2010, showing similar qualities. 92 Pedroncelli 2011 East Side Vineyards chilly 2011 vintage was kind to Dutton-Goldfield’s Elegantly dry and zesty in acidity, it has savory flavors Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County). Easy whites, including this racy, clean offering. This is bone of lemons, limes and peaches, with a stimulating grassi- 87 to drink, this has crisp, zesty acidity, showing melange of dry and modest in alcohol, with bracing acidity. Or- ness. —S.H. citrus, melon, green apple and spice flavors that finish ange zest, peach and lemon flavors are marked with a abv: 13.9% Price: $25 with a note of honey. —S.H. distinctive petrol note. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Kendall-Jackson 2010 Vintner’s Reserve abv: 13.1% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 89 Sauvignon Blanc (California). A fine Sau- Silverado 2010 Miller Ranch Estate Firestone 2010 Riesling (Santa Ynez Val- vignon Blanc that delivers plenty of bang for the buck. Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). ley). Firestone continues to produce good, af- It’s highlighted by brisk, clean acidity and ripe, delicious 87 90 Silverado has a mixed track record with Sauvignon fordable Rieslings, and this 2010 is one of their best yet. flavors of oranges, limes and papayas, with savory, pal- Blanc, a difficult variety to get right in Napa Valley, as Like the 2009, it’s off-dry, with a honey richness to the ate-tingling spices. This should be relatively easy to find, it’s very vintage specific. It tastes a little on the sweet lemon, peach, white flower and mineral flavors that are with 50,000 cases produced. Best Buy. —S.H. side, bearing flavors of green peas and oranges, with a brilliantly offset by crisp acidity and refreshingly low al- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 savory spiciness. —S.H. cohol. Best Buy. —S.H. Brander 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa abv: 13.4% Price: $22 abv: 12% Price: $14 88 Ynez Valley). Brander’s first Sauvignon Blanc VML 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian Kendall-Jackson 2010 Vintner’s Reserve of the cool 2011 vintage is delicious: It tastes dryish River Valley). A pretty Sauvignon Blanc, pol- Riesling (California). Tasting off-dry, this has to slightly off-dry, with excellent acidity brightening 87 85 ished and crisp, with a delicate, cleansing mouthfeel, flavors of citrus, vanilla, buttercream, honey and spice, the citrus and tropical fruit flavors.Editors’ Choice. and a dry finish. It has strong flavors of grapefruits, which are brightened by crisp acidity. —S.H. —S.H. Asian pears and white tobacco, with stimulating spices. abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 13.2% Price: $15 —S.H. Sofia 2010 Riesling (Monterey County). Salvestrin 2011 LeBlanc Crystal Spring abv: 13.8% Price: $22 This is off-dry, with flavors of oranges, peaches, 88 Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (St. Helena). 85 Capture 2011 Tradition Sauvignon Blanc honey and white flowers. The sweetness is balanced by This is dry, full bodied and spicy. It’s all about upfront (Lake County-Sonoma County). This is crisp Monterey acidity. —S.H. flavors of citrus, green grass, hay, vanilla and honey, 86 Capture’s unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, although it was abv: 12.6% Price: $19 brightened with brisk acidity. Easy to drink with a wide range of foods. —S.H. aged on the lees, lending the wine a rich creaminess abv: 14.2% Price: $24 to the very ripe lemon, lime and tropical fruit flavors, SAUVIGNON BLANC which taste a bit sweet on the finish. —S.H. 75 Wine Co. 2011 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 14.3% Price: $30 Rochioli 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian 87 (North Coast). Made in the New Zealand- 92 River Valley). Fine acidity and a lick of steel style, this savory Sauvignon Blanc has bright acidity Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Fumé Blanc give this Sauvignon Blanc a gravity above and beyond highlighting racy flavors of citrus, green melon and lem- 86 (Sonoma County). This tastes a little sweet the savory flavors of citrus, green apple, lemongrass and ongrass. —S.H. and a little green and leafy, but there’s enough pineap- honey. With its elegance, this should pair well with roast abv: 12.9% Price: $14 ple and orange richness to satisfy. Best of all is the acid- chicken. —S.H. ity, which is bright and zippy. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Capture 2011 Les Pionniers Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $14 87 Blanc (Sonoma County). There’s lots of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2010 Sauvi- ripe, savory lemon, lime and pineapple fruit in this Sau- Firestone 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa 92 gnon Blanc (Napa Valley). There’s an in- vignon Blanc, which is brightened by crisp acidity. It’s 86 Ynez Valley). Tasting a little on the sweet side, tense purity to this Sauvignon Blanc that makes it par- clean and mouthwatering, but it seems a little too sweet this has lemongrass and vanilla flavors. With the acidity ticularly refined and elegant. In fact, this is Stag’s Leap’s on the finish, which gives it a soda-like taste. —S.H. that’s nice and balancing, this should pair well with a best in many years. It has a translucency that lets you abv: 14.5% Price: $45 wide range of fare. —S.H. taste the minerally soil from which it comes, alongside abv: 13.5% Price: $15 immaculate citrus fruit, gooseberry and dried herb fla- Clos La Chance 2011 Estate Sauvignon vors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 87 Blanc (Central Coast). There’s lots of spicy Justin 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso abv: 13.5% Price: $26 richness in this slightly sweet Sauvignon Blanc. With 86 Robles). Brisk acidity that makes it almost

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 fizzy gives this simple Sauvignon Blanc a nice bite, Geyser Peak 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cal- WHITE BLENDS complementing the flavors of tangerine, lemon and 83 ifornia). Sweet and jammy, this Sauvignon green grass. It’s a clean, direct wine that will pair well Blanc’s lemon and lime flavors have an unripe streak, Carte Blanche 2010 Proprietary (Sonoma with a wide range of foods. —S.H. but it has a clean mouthfeel. —S.H. 92 County). Elaborate and detailed, this blend of- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $12 fers waves of ripe, creamy tangerines, dates, mangoes and spices, leading to a long, exotic finish. It accom- Mason Cellars 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Mauritson 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry plishes the magic of tasting sweet in the middle and 86 (Napa Valley). This is dry, acidic and a little 83 Creek Valley). With an aggressive smell and dry at the end. This is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and underripe, with a New Zealand-like touch of gooseber- taste, this Sauvignon Blanc isn’t entirely ripe, a victim of Sémillon. —S.H. ry. A respectable wine, this has a bright core of lemon, the chilly vintage. Although it shows some decent citrus abv: 14.2% Price: $50 lime and tropical fruit. —S.H. and gooseberry flavors, with clean, tart acidity. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Testa Vineyards NV Simply White (Men- 88 docino County). This is a nonvintage blend Oak Grove 2011 Reserve Sauvignon Uppercut 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (North of Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, with additions of 86 Blanc (California). For full review see page 83 Coast). This tastes sweet, with citrus and Viognier and Muscat. Its Chenin-like nose is floral and 14. Best Buy. peach flavors. Fortunately there’s brisk acidity that rich, and its lychee, lime and kiwi flavors swirl about be- abv: 13% Price: $8 makes it balanced. —S.H. fore coming to a refined, perfectly crisp finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Schug 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma 86 Coast). An easy wine—this is zesty in acid- Franciscan 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Kendall-Jackson 2010 Vintner’s Reserve ity and slightly sweet in orange jam and pineapple fla- 82 Valley). This shows green unripe notes that go 87 Summation (California). This has citrus, vors. The sweetness is the dominant feature, making beyond gooseberry. Still, it gets a pass for cleanness and apricot and honey flavors brightened with crisp acid- it a good partner for slightly sweet foods, like teriyaki dryness. —S.H. ity. It turns a little sweet on the finish, but it’s a lovely dishes. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $17 wine that should be versatile with a huge range of food. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 —S.H. Montevina 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Armida 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian 82 fornia). A simple Sauvignon Blanc, this is a lit- 85 River Valley). Sweetness marks and com- tle sweet and acidic, and the citrus flavors are unripe Cline 2011 Marsanne-Roussanne (So- promises this Sauvignon Blanc. It has very ripe fla- and green. —S.H. 86 noma Coast). Nice and dry, this has vital acid- vors of honey and pineapple and lemon jam, with brisk abv: 13.5% Price: $9 ity that makes the mouth water. It’s an interesting wine, acidity that helps make the finish clean and bright. just barely ripe; the citrus, peach and honey flavors have —S.H. Peju 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- an edge of wintergreen. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 80 ley). Peju’s Sauvignon Blancs need warm vin- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 tages to succeed, and 2011 was anything but warm. The Chalk Hill 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Chalk wine tastes unripe, with skunky aromas and flavors that Ensemble 2010 White (California). This 85 Hill). Chalk Hill’s 2010 seems a little too under- make it difficult to like. —S.H. 86 has ultraclean acidity, with peach, pear, citrus ipe for comfort, although it is clean and dry, with some abv: 13.5% Price: $22 and honey flavors. It’s definitely on the off-dry side, pleasant citrus and peach flavors. —S.H. making it fine for drinking with slightly sweet foods. abv: 14.9% Price: $33 Best Buy. —S.H. VIOGNIER abv: 13% Price: $10 Francis Coppola 2011 Diamond Collec- Wild Horse 2011 Viognier (Central tion Sauvignon Blanc (California). This is 85 Coast). This is dry, crisp in acidity and pleas- Armida 2011 Antidote (Sonoma County). likeable for its acidity and savory citrus flavors, which 89 antly exotic in tropical fruit, orange, vanilla and spice 85 Off-dry to sweet in style, this has lime, mango work together to get the tastebuds watering. There’s a flavors. It shows a respectable quality-price ratio and is and honey flavors that are balanced by crisp acidity. strong note of sour gooseberry, with a touch of honey in worth seeking out, although the case production is fairly —S.H. the finish. —S.H. low. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.9% Price: $18 Cielo Malibu Estate Vineyards 2009 Halleck 2011 Little Sister Sauvignon Deep Sea 2009 Coquina Viognier (Ar- 83 Woodstock Collection Honey Pie (Napa Blanc (Russian River Valley). With pert 85 royo Grande Valley). Ripe, delicious flavors Valley). A simple white, this has slightly sweet apricot acidity and candied pineapple and lemon flavors, this 87 of tropical fruit, butterscotch, honey and spice compose and orange flavors that are brightened by crisp acidity. wine has the taste of a sweet-and-sour cough drop. It this flashy Viognier. It’s a bit high in alcohol, with a chili —S.H. straddles the line between dry and off-dry. —S.H. pepper singe on the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.1% Price: $32 abv: 15.2% Price: $28 3CV 2011 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Hap- McManis 2011 Viognier (California). This OTHER WHITE WINES py Canyon of Santa Barbara). An easy wine 84 is dry and crisp, with a trace of Viognier’s tropi- that’s marked by sweet lemon, lime and vanilla flavors. 83 Longoria 2011 Clover Creek Vineyard Al- cal fruit and spice flavors. —S.H. The zesty acids provide needed balance. —S.H. 92 bariño (Santa Ynez Valley). This elegant, abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 sophisticated wine confirms Longoria’s reputation as one of the premier Albariño producers in California. As Oak Grove 2011 Reserve Viognier (Cal- Wellington 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (So- in past vintages, the wine is bone dry and crisp in acid- ifornia). With simple vanilla, lemon and lime noma Valley). This has ripe lemon, lime, 83 ity, with mineral, citrus zest and apricot flavors that fin- 84 flavors, this Viognier tastes a little sweet and sugary. It’s green grass and vanilla flavors, with excellent acidity. It ish with a honeyed richness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. fortunately balanced by zippy acidity. —S.H. scours the mouth and prepares it for food, but it’s a little abv: 12.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $8 on the sweet, simple side. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $15 Truchard 2010 Roussanne (Carneros). 91 While this is dry, it is enormously rich in orange

WineMag.com | 49 and guava flavors, with an oaky overlay that tastes sweet flavors. It’s dry and very crisp in acidity. Give it a chill Château Potelle 2009 Explorer The Ille- in buttered toast and vanilla. Salmon or lamb with a and enjoy with salted, smoked meats, or a nice fish stew. 92 gitimate (Napa Valley). Blended from Cab- fruity tapenade or salsa should make for a great pair- —S.H. ernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and Syrah, this is a ing. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $20 complex wine. Very dry and marked by young, aggres- abv: 13.9% Price: $22 sive tannins, it strikes you as dramatic, offering waves of Martin Ray 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Rus- fruit, mineral, spice and oak flavors that carry onto the Seghesio 2011 Arneis (Russian River 85 sian River Valley). Simple but savory, with long, sweet finish. With its tannins, give it until 2015. 88 Valley). This Italian variety isn’t widely grown rich acidity brightening notes of cherry, rosehip tea, va- Cellar Selection. —S.H. in California, but judging from this bottling, it should nilla and spice flavors that seem to finish a little sweet. abv: 14.5% Price: $37 be. It’s a wonderfully versatile wine, dry and tart in acid- —S.H. ity, and the citrus rind and white flower flavors are sub- abv: 13.9% Price: $16 Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 The Mariner tle but beautiful. —S.H. 92 Meritage (Dry Creek Valley). For full re- abv: 13.3% Price: $22 Sofia 2011 Rosé (Monterey County). view see page 7. 85 Made from Syrah and Grenache, this is a big, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Wellington 2010 Estate Vineyard Mar- powerful blush wine, with jammy strawberry and rasp- 87 sanne (Sonoma Valley). This shows the berry flavors. It’s sweet on the finish, almost a dessert Claudia Springs 2009 Vittorio’s Secret creamy texture of Chardonnay, but with exotic flavors of wine. If this is your style, it’s for you. —S.H. 89 Red Wine (Redwood Valley). A field blend tropical fruit, sweet nut and pear butter. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 of 63% Zinfandel, 19% Petite Sirah and 18% Carignane, abv: 14.7% Price: $22 this is marked by its pronounced earthiness. While it’s Toad Hollow 2011 Eye of the Toad Dry austere it’s also juicy and balanced. A hint of blueberry Wellington 2010 Roussanne (Sonoma 85 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). pie is contrasted beautifully by the wine’s peppery spice 87 County). A little one dimensional, but it’s a Dark in color and heavy in the mouth, this blush Pinot and long finish. —V.B. polished wine that’s nice for drinking now. The ripe has ripe cherry and persimmon flavors. It is dry, with abv: 14.9% Price: $35 orange, tropical fruit, cashew butter and spice flavors tart acidity. —S.H. are wrapped into a creamy texture. —S.H. abv: 11% Price: $13 VinRoc 2009 RTW (Napa Valley). This is a abv: 13.9% Price: $22 89 classy wine, showing a deep core of ripe black- Peju 2011 Rosé of Syrah (Napa Valley). berries, black currants and spices, with a smoked meat 84 With a dark color and full body, this isn’t very richness, like crispy bacon. Beyond the flavors is a fine SPARKLING WINES subtle. It’s almost a red wine in itself, shows raspberry, mouthfeel, composed of smooth tannins and a nice bite Sofia 2011 Blanc de Blancs (Monterey strawberry and vanilla flavors that are sweet on the fin- of acidity. —S.H. ish. —S.H. County). There are lots of rich, satisfying or- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 87 abv: 13.7% Price: $25 ange, pear and vanilla flavors in this dryish bubbly. It’s Justin 2008 Isoceles Reserve (Paso Ro- clean, vibrant in acidity and a touch rough. The blend is Saintsbury 2011 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir bles). A very rich wine—this has a warm, soft Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Muscat. —S.H. 88 (Carneros). A simple rosé, soft and heavy, abv: 12% Price: $19 84 mouthfeel and ripe, jammy flavors enhanced with oak. with raspberry and cherry flavors that seem a little Except for the heat, it’s a lovely wine. Drink now. —S.H. Rock Wall 2011 Blanc de Blancs (Cali- sugary. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $98 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 fornia). Made to appeal to the Moscato crowd, 85 Cielo Malibu Estate Vineyards 2009 this blend of Chardonnay and Muscat Canelli is simple, Pink Truck 2010 Pink Wine (California). Woodstock Collection Black Widow with orange and dough flavors. —S.H. 87 Simple and sweet, like a mixture of watermelon, (Napa Valley). abv: 11% Price: $18 82 This packs a whallop of acidity and lemonade and raspberry jam. —S.H. tannins right off the bat, then the blackberry and cassis abv: 10.5% Price: $9 core kicks in, leading to a long, spicy finish. It will age, ROSÉS but the sharpness of the acidity may never disappear. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. —S.H. Kokomo 2011 Pauline’s Vineyard Gr- RED BLENDS abv: 15% Price: $75 enache Rosé (Dry Creek Valley). This is 92 Terra Valentine 2009 Marriage (Spring what rosé should be: pale in color, dry, delicate and tart Mountain). For full review see page 4. Estate 1856 2009 Red (Dry Creek Val- in acidity, with subtle but complex herb, tea, orange zest 96 abv: 14.9% Price: $80 87 ley). There are lots of complex, pleasing fla- and spice flavors. It represents a significant milestone in vors in this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot California rosés. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Capture 2009 Harmonie (Sonoma Coun- and Malbec. It’s bone dry, with rich flavors of blackber- abv: 13.1% Price: $22 95 ty). This Bordeaux blend is delicious, refined ries, cherries, currants, spices and oak. Drink now as it and ageworthy. It’s dry and quite tannic now, but un- doesn’t have the structure for aging. —S.H. Muscardini 2011 Alice’s Vineyards Rosa- derneath the astringency is a beautifully balanced wine abv: 14.8% Price: $36 to di Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). For full 91 with intensely concentrated blackberry and dark choco- review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. . late fruit, with an earthiness. A terrific wine that should Hug 2009 el Pape (Central Coast). This abv: 12.8% Price: $22 come into its own after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 87 Rhône-style blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre abv: 13.8% Price: $120 and Syrah has plenty of cherry and mocha delicious- Eberle 2010 Steinbeck Vineyard Syrah ness. It seems a bit sweet on the finish, so drink it with Rosé (Paso Robles). Dry and crisp in acid- 87 Carte Blanche 2009 Proprietary Red Wine compatible foods, like bacon. —S.H. ity, this has pleasant raspberry, rose, tobacco and spice (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 15.5% Price: $30 flavors. Try pairing this with salty, cured meats, like ham 94 abv: 15.1% Price: $95 and sausage. —S.H. Muscardini 2009 Tesoro (Sonoma Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Peju 2009 Fifty/Fifty Red Wine (Napa Val- 87 ley). There are lots of delicious flavors in this ley). For full review see page 6. smooth blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and VML 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian 93 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 Syrah. It impresses for its voluptuous flavors of black- 87 River Valley). This is a strongly flavored blush, berries, cherries, chocolate and sweet oak. It could be a packing a punch of raspberry, fig, sweet tea and rose

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 little firmer in structure; it’s soft and melted, like pastry is an old-style wine, easy to drink with everyday fare. It’s but its slight burn on the finish makes it harder to swal- filling. —S.H. soft and sweet and fruity. —S.H. low. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $46 abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $7

3CV 2010 Cilla’s Blend Three Creek Vine- Hook & Ladder 2009 The Tillerman (Rus- 86 yard (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). 85 sian River Valley). Break out the pizza with CABERNET FRANC There are lots of ripe cherry, blackberry and cola flavors tomato sauce and gooey, oily mozzarella. That’s what Peju 2008 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Napa in this blend of Syrah and Bordeaux varieties. It’s also this tough, gritty Bordeaux-style blend with added San- 94 Valley). For full review see page 5. sweet in smoky oak and has a wake-up call of zippy acid- giovese needs to soften and mellow. It’s a good wine, abv: 14.8% Price: $115 ity. A pleasant wine to drink now with steaks, stews and ripe in berries and spices, but rustic. —S.H. burgers. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Clos du Val 2009 Cabernet Franc (Stags abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Leap District). This is very tannic yet very 3CV 2010 Bank Three Creek Vineyard 90 elegant. With a dry, astringent mouthfeel, it has a pow- Château Julien 2009 Royalty Red (Mon- (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). A sim- 84 erful heart of red and black cherries. Aging this wine terey County). Sweet and smooth, this blend ple wine, sharp in acidity and jammy, with gassy bubble- 86 is a bit of a gamble, but trying cellaring it until 2015. of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah has flavors of gum and raspberry flavors, almost like a Beaujolais. By Otherwise, drink it with foods that are compatible with milk chocolate and cherry pie. It’s a delicious wine for winter, it should calm down and start to mellow. —S.H. astringent, dry red wines. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 everyday drinking. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Eagle Eye 2007 Voluptuous (Napa Val- Firestone 2009 Cabernet Franc (Santa Courtney Benham 2010 Vin d’Eliza (Cen- ley). This is a Bordeaux-style blend, blended 84 Ynez Valley). A beautiful Cabernet Franc, dry, tral Coast). This could be more generous in with one-fifth Syrah. It’s soft, sweet and simple. The 90 86 soft and supple, with a silky texture that glides across flavor, offering modest cherry and cranberry notes. But candied flavors have a vegetal note that detracts. —S.H. the palate with such smoothness. It conveys pleasantly it’s a dry, elegant sipper, with tart acidity that should abv: 14.7% Price: $25 complex flavors of red cherry essence, with hints of nut- make your mouth water. —S.H. meg, anise and sweet sandalwood. Not an ager, but a abv: 13.9% Price: $16 Hey Mambo 2010 Sultry Red Bistro Style fine wine to drink now—especially with steak. Editors’ Wine (California). A bistro-style wine, this is 84 Choice. —S.H. Eagle Eye 2008 Infatuation Alpha Wolf simple and fruity, good for washing down a burger or a abv: 14.2% Price: $24 86 Ranch (Napa Valley). Soft and gentle, this is pizza. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 easy to like now for its rich berry, mocha and smoky fla- Eagle Eye 2008 Estate Alpha Wolf Ranch vors, and its sweet, spicy finish. It’s basically a Bordeaux- Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). Rich and style blend, with some Syrah. —S.H. Hug 2009 el Jefe (Central Coast). Simple, 86 oaky, this has bigtime flavors of blackberry and blue- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 soft and seemingly sweet, this has high alcohol, 84 berry jam, milk chocolate and exotic spice. Made in with cherry and mocha flavors that disappear on the the modern cult style, it’s certainly sweet and flashy, yet Lafond 2009 Syrah-Grenache (Sta. Rita finish. The blend is Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. lacks structural integrity. —S.H. Hills). Big and rich, this is packed with complex —S.H. 86 abv: 15.4% Price: $55 flavors of soft cherry jam, roasted meat, white pepper abv: 15.4% Price: $30 and sweet, smoky new oak. There’s a note of overripe- ness in the finish, like dried prunes. Drink it now with Muscardini 2008 Fortuna (Sonoma Val- CABERNET SAUVIGNON rich, fatty meats and sauces. —S.H. 84 ley). Heavy and soft, this has cherry, mocha and abv: 14.5% Price: $38 spice flavors. The blend is mostly Syrah, with the rest Janzen 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vine- comprised of Bordeaux varieties. —S.H. 97 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lange Twins 2010 Petite Sirah Petit Ver- abv: 14.7% Price: $32 For full review see page 3. 86 dot (California). The Petite Sirah for this wine abv: 15.1% Price: $135 comes from Clarksburg and the Petit Verdot from Lodi, Red Truck 2009 Red (California). This with the blend 60%-40%, respectively. An interesting 83 comes down on the sweet side of flavor, with Capture 2009 Révélation Cabernet Sau- combination, the wine exudes a great fruity nose, with raspberry and cherry pie notes that turn funky on the 95 vignon (Pine Mountain). The winemakers an earthy tobacco note. It’s big and juicy, like a baked finish. It’s a simple, rustic wine; put a little chill on it, call this their Pauillac-style wine, meaning that its char- ripe-berry pie. —V.B. and sip it at the beach. —S.H. acter is marked by Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a brilliant abv: 14.2% Price: $17 abv: 13.6% Price: $11 wine, vastly deep, imposing and elegant, with a potent mountain flavor of black currant. The estate vineyard Schulz 2009 Samuel’s Cuvée (Napa Val- Hug 2008 el Conquistador (Paso Ro- is very high in the Mayacamas Mountains, and you can 86 ley). Made from Syrah, Zinfandel and Caber- 82 bles). This Bordeaux-style blend—with an ad- sense the small size of the berries in the wines intensity, net Sauvignon, this offers accessible flavors of berry, dition of Mourvèdre—is soft, simple and cloying, with the sheer concentration, as well as the tannins—which mocha, anise and sandalwood that seem to finish a little vegetal flavors alongside the sweet raspberry jam note. are hard and tight. Clearly this is a wine that requires on the sweet side. —S.H. High alcohol makes for a hot mouthfeel. —S.H. time in the cellar. Try in 2018, but it could worth aging abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 15% Price: $32 well beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $135 Cirque du Vin 2009 Red (Paso Robles). Cielo Malibu Estate Vineyards 2008 85 Made from a whole bunch of varieties—includ- 81 Rouge (Saddle Rock-Malibu). Somewhat B.R. Cohn 2007 Olive Hill Estate Vine- ing Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon—this is a soft, underripe, this Bordeaux-style blend has modest cherry 94 yards Special Selection Cabernet Sauvi- fruity wine. It has lush flavors of blackberries, cherries and boiled asparagus flavors. —S.H. gnon (Sonoma Valley). Dramatic, powerful flavors and spices. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $95 of blackberries and cassis liqueur explode in this wine— abv: 14.5% Price: $15 the classic markers of great Cabernet Sauvignon. At the flipflop NV Headshrinker Sweet Red same time, it shows softly refined tannins that make Hook & Ladder 2009 Station 10 Red 81 Blend (California). This is sweet and simple, it firm but drinkable now. With a long, spicy finish, it 85 (Russian River Valley). Made from Zinfan- del, Petite Sirah, Carignane and Alicante Bouschet, this

WineMag.com | 51 shows considerable complexity. Best now; it will gradu- Robert Craig 2009 Affinity Cabernet Sau- Sterling 2009 Platinum Cabernet Sauvi- ally lose fruit for another 6–7 years. —S.H. 93 vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see 92 gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page abv: 14.6% Price: $100 page 6. 7. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.8% Price: $55 Carte Blanche 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. Sojourn 2009 Proprietary Cuvée Cab- Clos du Val 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 15.2% Price: $125 93 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is 91 (Stags Leap District). Made in the classic marked by intense flavors of blackberry, cherry and cur- Clos du Val style, this Cabernet is less ripe, drier and Casa Piena 2009 Estate Grown Caber- rant, with sweet smoky oak, firm, furry tannins and brisk more acidic than many of its Napa Valley neighbors. It’s 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Soft and rich acidity. All of these elements jostle for position, making also very tannic. Currently, it’s an aloof, austere wine, in texture, this has flavors that are as intricately wound the wine currently aggressive and unresolved. Howev- but it has a deep core of blackberries. This wants at least as a tapestry: blackberries and cassis to green olive er, the suggestion of ageability is warranted. Put it to eight years in a proper cellar, and should age well for tapenade, cedar and a slight, but appealing, funkiness, sleep in your cellar for six years and see how it’s doing. It another decade beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. suggestive of worn leather. Drinking beautifully now, could be fine in 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $80 it should evolve in the bottle over the next 5–6 years. abv: 14.8% Price: $95 —S.H. Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.7% Price: $150 Sojourn 2009 Vineyard Georges III Cab- 91 vignon (Dry Creek Valley). For full review 93 ernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This will im- see page 8. Editors’ Choice. Janzen 2009 Beckstoffer Missouri Hop- press red wine lovers with its sheer deliciousness. It of- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 94 per Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa fers waves of blackberry and blueberry jam, dark choco- Valley). For full review see page 4. late, anise and cedar wood flavors, leading to a long, spicy Firestone 2009 The Chairman Series abv: 15.2% Price: $100 finish. It’s a bit soft, which might limit ageability, but it 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). is a lovely wine to drink over the next few years. —S.H. This is Firestone’s best Cabernet Sauvignon in many Merus 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.7% Price: $95 years. It’s satisfying for the lush, creamy texture, and the 94 Valley). This is marked by hard tannins and wealth of blackberry, currant, herb and toast flavors. It acidity, bearing blackberry, dark chocolate and mineral Terra Valentine 2009 Yverdon Vineyard feels excellent on the palate: supple and refined, with a flavors, with a smoky oak note that is unintegrated with 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). bone dry finish. Drink soon, as it doesn’t seem to be an the other components. Will it age? There’s a purity to There’s a terrific core of cherry, red currant, miner- ager. —S.H. the core that strongly suggests it will. Hold it until 2017, al and iodine flavor in this wine, along with an elabo- abv: 14.5% Price: $38 and it could develop bottle nuance well beyond that. rate oak treatment that makes it complex and dramatic. Cellar Selection. —S.H. But it’s also extremely tannic, leading to the question of Vineyard 7&8 2009 7 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 15.1% Price: $145 ageability. In all likelihood, the fruit will outlast the as- 91 gnon (Spring Mountain). For full review see tringency. It should begin to come into its own after page 9. Peju 2008 Estate Bottled Reserve Caber- 2015, and it could continue to develop much longer. abv: 14.8% Price: $75 94 net Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review Cellar Selection. —S.H. see page 5. abv: 14.9% Price: $65 Beaucanon 2009 Longwood Cabernet abv: 14.4% Price: $105 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review Casa Piena 2008 Estate Grown Cabernet see page 9. Sojourn 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Elaborately rich, abv: 14.6% Price: $32 94 (Spring Mountain). Better known for Pinot this has a velvety smooth texture due to its refined tan- Noir, Sojourn is coming on strong in Cabernet Sauvi- nins. It’s slowly picking up bottle character, with the pri- Courtney Benham 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- gnon. This is a very fine wine. It’s firm in tannins and mary fruit flavors of blackberries and cherries mellowing 90 gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page bright in acidity, with an amazingly concentrated core as it picks up olive and earth notes. While it’s remarkable 10. of blackberries, black currants and minerals. Really im- for its sheer luxuriousness, this is a little soft and warm, abv: 13.9% Price: $25 presses for the tension between sheer power and classy which may limit ageability. Drink now–2015. —S.H. elegance. Should age, too. Drink now–2020. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $150 Dominus 2009 Napanook Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.9% Price: $59 90 vignon (Napa Valley). Elegantly smooth in J. Lohr 2009 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet the mouth, like silk and velvet—this has rich, forward Terra Valentine 2009 Wurtele Vineyard 92 Sauvignon (St. Helena). For full review see blackberry, black currant and oak flavors. It feels dra- 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). page 7. matic and complex, a white-tablecloth Cabernet for This stands out from the pack for the sheer complex- abv: 14.9% Price: $40 pairing with fine meats and cheeses. Seems best now ity of its flavors, as well as the structural integrity. It’s and for a couple more years. —S.H. absolutely dry, and the tannins are strong, in the Spring Janzen 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $59 Mountain way. The fruit is terrifically concentrated, 92 Valley). This is a smooth, rich Cabernet whose with potent flavors of blackberry, currant, dark choco- fruity flavors are upfront, yet it has the complex, upscale Estate 1856 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon late and anise; there’s a lovely olive note that grounds structure of a great wine. With classic blackberry and 90 (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page the wine and makes it earthy. Production was a mere crème de cassis flavors, it’s almost as good as its more 10. 318 cases. Drink now–2021. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. expensive vineyard-designated brethren from Janzen, at abv: 14.8% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $65 half the price. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50 Firestone 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard 7&8 2009 Estate Cabernet Sau- 90 (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review see page 94 vignon (Spring Mountain). For full review Janzen 2009 Cloudy’s Vineyard Caber- 10. Editors’ Choice. see page 5. Cellar Selection. 92 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.8% Price: $125 view see page 7. abv: 14.9% Price: $100 Peju 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 90 Valley). A lovely Cabernet for drinking now. It’s soft and harmonious, with ripe, sweet flavors of black-

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 berries, cherries and anise liqueur. An elaborate coating and eucalyptus running throughout, but it is nicely bal- Uppercut 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon of oak brings a sweet, smoky deliciousness. —S.H. anced against the blackberry and raspberry tones. It’s 86 (Napa Valley). This is has classic blackber- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 light in tone and should be fine with food. —V.B. ry, black currant and cedar flavors. The feeling on the abv: 13.7% Price: $41 palate feels a little rough, though. —S.H. Rodney Strong 2008 Rockaway Caber- abv: 14.2% Price: $25 90 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). There Eagle Eye 2007 Alpha Wolf Vineyards are lots of rich blackberry, cherry and currant flavors in 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The Cielo Malibu Estate Vineyards 2008 Pur- this dry young wine. You’ll also find the dried herb flavor flavors of this Cabernet are enormously rich. Black- 85 ple Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (Sad- that often characterize Alexander Valley Cabernet Sau- berry and blueberry jam, black currant, dark chocolate dle Rock-Malibu). Overripe and pruny, this has vignon. It’s a bit high in alcohol and doesn’t seem to be and cassis come in waves. Few wines on earth are this a Porty richness and a heavy feeling. It’s unlikely to an ager, but it’s finely crafted. —S.H. ripe. The issue is balance and complexity, both of which improve with age, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $75 could be stronger. Drink over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $175 abv: 14.9% Price: $40 Schug 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- Dynamite Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Sau- 90 noma Valley). For full review see page 11. Franciscan 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 85 vignon (Red Hills Lake County). A very dry Editors’ Choice. 87 (Oakville). This shows classic Oakville tannins, Cabernet, with upfront tannins, this has highlights of abv: 13.5% Price: $28 acidity and rich blackberry and cassis flavors, with a soft plum, blackberry, cedar and chocolate. It’s missing nice, spicy finish. But, it doesn’t show the flashy concen- plushness and backbone, finishing a bit thin. —V.B. Topel 2006 Estate Reserve Cabernet tration or the ageworthiness of the region’s best Caber- abv: 13.9% Price: $13 90 Sauvignon (Mendocino County). This is nets. Give it a decanting and drink up. —S.H. a Cabernet with intense berry concentration and soft abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Fields Family 2009 Dr. Konrad’s Vineyard tannins. It’s very dry and savory, with leathery black 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Soft cherry and cassis bursting almost out of its seams, fin- Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2009 Caber- and slightly one-dimensional, this bears blackberry and ishing with a hint of dark chocolate. Nicely crafted, this 87 net Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake County). cherry jam flavors enriched with smoky oak. There’s a shouldn’t overpower your food. —V.B. Thick and rich, this is a very concentrated Cabernet funky, Syrah-like bacon note, too. It’s not likely to im- abv: 14.2% Price: $36 that can use more time in the cellar. For now, it has prove with age, so drink up. —S.H. tannins that overwhelm the blueberry fruit and traces of abv: 14.6% Price: $59 Concannon 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sau- cedar and cocoa. —V.B. 89 vignon (Livermore Valley). Lovely aromat- abv: 14.8% Price: $65 Frisby 2009 Reserve OC Collection Cab- ics emanate from this fine Cabernet, including heady 85 ernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This Cab- wafts of leather and dark plum that make this deeply Frei Brothers 2009 Reserve Cabernet ernet is very dry, with a high level of acidity. It lacks lush wine very inviting. —V.B. 86 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This treads generosity, but it’s elegant. The green edge mellows as abv: 14.3% Price: $25 the line between simple and complex, showing ripe it warms in the glass, giving way to a note of blackberry flavors of blackberries and cherries that seem sweet, jam. Drink up. —S.H. Ispriri 2009 Pine Mountain-Cloverdale although the finish is dry. Softly tannic, this is made for abv: 13.5% Price: $19 89 Peak Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma drinking now. —S.H. County). Ripe and flashy, this Cabernet is a bit rustic abv: 14.3% Price: $27 Sledgehammer 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- now. The vineyard is quite high up in the Mayacamas 85 gnon (North Coast). With tasty black cur- Mountains, and the flavors show that intense, mountain J. Lohr 2008 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon rant, plum and prune flavors, this Cabernet is a little concentration of blackberries and cherries. Without his- 86 (Paso Robles). This is a soft, easy Cabernet, overripe, but it succeeds nonetheless in providing plea- tory to refer to, it’s hard to predict this wine’s future, but with a gentle mouthfeel and forward blackberry, currant sure. It’s bone dry, with a nice bite of astringency. —S.H. you might consider cellaring it for 6–8 years to see what and chocolate flavors. It’s not terribly complicated, but abv: 14.2% Price: $16 happens. —S.H. it is sweet and clean. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $55 abv: 14.9% Price: $35 Vina Robles 2009 Estate Cabernet Sau- 85 vignon (Paso Robles). This is and proper- Kenwood 2009 Jack London Vineyard Michael Pozzan 2009 Napa Cuvée No. 15 ly dry, with smooth tannins and high acidity that lends 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This some sting to the palate. The berry and earth flavors For full review see page 11. is a little rough around the edges, with jagged tannins. lack some intensity. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 The flavors range from blackberries and black currants abv: 14.5% Price: $24 to cola and toasted oak, and the finish is nice and dry. Rutherford Hill 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- —S.H. Grove Ridge 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 89 gnon (Napa Valley). Smooth and polished, abv: 13.5% Price: $23 84 (California). Ripe, sweet fruit marks this sim- this shows real Napa character, with dry tannins fram- ple Cabernet. It’s candied in blackberries and cherries, ing blackberry, black currant and herb flavors. It doesn’t Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Cabernet with a touch of smoky oak. —S.H. seem to be built for aging, so open it over the next year 86 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This is a rustic abv: 13% Price: $10 or two. —S.H. wine, but not without a certain charm. Sure, it’s irregu- abv: 14.3% Price: $43 lar in texture, with a jagged mouthfeel, but there’s lots Kirkland Signature 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- of ripe blackberry fruit, and the finish is dry and spicy. 84 gnon (Alexander Valley). Fruity in blackber- Bryter 2009 Tourmaline Vineyard In- —S.H. ry and cherry flavors, this is easy to drink, with a good 88 spired Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- abv: 13.9% Price: $30 acid-tannin balance. —S.H. ley). This feels upscale, bearing very ripe flavors of abv: 13.6% Price: $9 blackberry, mocha and cedar, with smooth tannins and Topel 2007 Estate Reserve Cabernet a nice bite of acidity to balance out the richness. —S.H. 86 Sauvignon (Mendocino). Following on the Sterling 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 heels of the wonderful 2006 bottling, this has more tan- 84 gnon (Napa Valley). This is a simple, and nin and less fruit, with a heavy presence of oak stepping seemingly sweet Cabernet, with a blackberry jam flavor. Rodrigue Molyneaux 2009 Estate Re- in the way of the black cherry flavor. It was aged for 33 It’s smooth and velvety in the mouth, but it isn’t likely to 88 serve Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore months in oak—50% new French oak. —V.B. improve with age. —S.H. Valley). This has a strong current of spearmint, cedar abv: 14.2% Price: $36 abv: 14.9% Price: $45

WineMag.com | 53 Wild Horse 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Firestone 2008 Merlot (Santa Ynez Val- Main Street 2009 Merlot (Monterey Coun- 84 (Paso Robles). This is a good effort, with ber- 88 ley). This delivers the soft, velvety texture you 85 ty). For full review see page 15. Best Buy. ry and cherry flavors and smooth tannins. —S.H. want in a nice Merlot, along with ripe black-cherry, abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.9% Price: $20 anise, cola and sandalwood flavors that finish dry and spicy. —S.H. Courtney Benham 2010 Merlot (Napa Happy Camper 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.3% Price: $20 84 Valley). An easy-drinking Merlot, this is dry 83 gnon (California). A simple wine, this shows and smooth, with black cherry, cola and spice flavors. a decent Cabernet character by way of blackberry and Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Merlot (So- It’s a fine wine for everyday purposes. —S.H. cherry fruit. The finish is a bit modest and a little sweet. 88 noma Valley). A very nice wine that does what abv: 13.9% Price: $17 —S.H. California Merlot is supposed to do. It delivers lots of abv: 13% Price: $9 ripe, sweet fruit and a lush texture. The cherry pie fla- Sterling 2009 Three Palms Vineyard vor is heightened by a savory baking-spice note. —S.H. 84 Merlot (Napa Valley). This is a soft, simple Rock Hollow 2010 Vintner’s Selection abv: 14.4% Price: $30 Merlot, with slender flavors of blackberries, cocoa and 83 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). spices. —S.H. Hard, dry tannins and modest flavors mark this simple Martin Ray 2010 Reserve Merlot (Oak abv: 15% Price: $55 Cabernet that bears some berry-cherry fruit. —S.H. 88 Knoll). With a rich, velvety texture and flavors abv: 13.8% Price: $13 of black cherries, green olives and smoky cedar, this is Grove Ridge 2011 Merlot (California). Ag- a very nice Merlot for drinking now. Drink this with 82 gressive on the palate, this has harp acids that Bridlewood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon upscale fare. —S.H. frame flavors of sour cherry candy and green mint. 82 (Paso Robles). This tastes sweet and simple, abv: 14.8% Price: $25 —S.H. with flavors of cherries and berries that finish quick and abv: 13% Price: $10 thin, leaving behind a sugary taste. —S.H. Truchard 2008 Merlot (Carneros). With no abv: 13.5% Price: $15 88 rough edges and quite a bit of silky appeal, this earns points for its dry elegance. The flavors are elusive: PETIT VERDOT Cannonball 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon At first there is a fresh, ripe cherry note, then an olive Decades5 2009 Stagecoach Vineyard (California). Sour and thin, this has green 82 tapenade element and a moment later a rich earthiness. Petit Verdot (Atlas Peak). This tastes dis- mint, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. 86 It is fairly tannic, however, and unlikely to age for very tinctly sweet—like a cherry-and-chocolate confection— abv: 13.8% Price: $16 long. Drink now–2014. —S.H. and the acidity is high. It’s hard to predict where this abv: 14.2% Price: $30 is going, but it seems awkward now. Tasted twice, with Hug 2010 Starr Ranch Vineyard Caber- consistent results. —S.H. net Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This has Martin Ray 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). 82 abv: 14.2% Price: $145 enormously high alcohol, but the fruit is curiously thin, 87 Dry, with smooth tannins and plenty of ele- with some unripeness. The amount of new oak doesn’t gance, this has interesting black-cherry, cola and cedar Eagle Eye 2008 Estate Alpha Wolf Ranch seem to help. —S.H. flavors. It’s not likely to improve with age, so drink up. Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). Petit Verdot is a abv: 16.1% Price: $35 86 —S.H. hard variety to successfully make on its own. Although abv: 14.2% Price: $20 this has intense flavors of blackberries, black cur- Hug 2008 Booker Vineyard Cabernet rants and dark chocolate, there’s not much beyond the Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Some Cabernets Wild Horse 2009 Merlot (Paso Robles). 82 seemingly sweet flavors. The high alcohol lends this a can get away with high alcohol, but this one one can’t. It With cherry, cola and smoky oak flavors and lots 87 Port-like heat. —S.H. doesn’t have the richness of fruit or the structure. What of tart acidity, this Merlot has a sweet-sour taste, but it’s abv: 15.3% Price: $60 you get is a light blackberry-jam flavor and even a vege- clean and has good bones. —S.H. table note. This is unlikely to get better with age. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $19 Estate 1856 2009 Petit Verdot (Dry Creek abv: 15.1% Price: $65 Valley). Soft and easy, this is a simple wine, Fields Family 2009 Merlot (Oak Knoll). 85 with pleasant berry, mocha and spice flavors. Still, the Ugly Duckling 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Clean, proper and balanced, this Merlot doesn’t 86 fruit and oak will likely win many fans. —S.H. (California). A big letdown after the 2009, this 82 excite, but gets the job done in a nice way. It’s dry, tan- abv: 14.8% Price: $30 is a simple, rustic wine. It’s dry and acidic, with thin ber- nic and crisp, with flavors of cherries, tobacco, cola and ry, herb and spice flavors. —S.H. spices. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.9% Price: $28 PINOT NOIR Schug 2008 Heritage Reserve Merlot Rochioli 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River MERLOT 86 (Carneros). This is ripe in cherry and red 95 Valley). This is Rochioli’s estate Pinot—with- out a vineyard designation. It’s a fabulous wine, showing Nickel & Nickel 2009 Harris Vineyard currant flavors, with a smoky, bacony touch from the the winery’s signature power, complexity and balance. Merlot (Oakville). For full review see page 6. charred oak. The mouthfeel is marked by edgy tannins. 93 The flavors are rich, with notes of red berries, persim- abv: 14.3% Price: $50 Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 mons, red currants, bacon and cola. Absolutely deli- Nickel & Nickel 2009 Suscol Ranch Mer- cious now, and it should gain traction and change inter-

93 lot (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. Cannonball 2010 Merlot (Sonoma Coun- estingly over 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $50 85 ty). There are lots of ripe cherry, blackberry abv: 14.5% Price: $75 and cola flavors in this Merlot. It’s a simple, elegant Rutherford Hill 2008 Reserve Merlot wine that’s dry and silky in texture. Drink now. —S.H. Kori 2010 KW Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). 89 (Napa Valley). Dry and classy, this is tart in abv: 13.9% Price: $16 94 For full review see acidity, with an earthiness to the cherry-berry fruit. This page 5. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 is elegant rather than opulent; drink it over the next 2–3 Happy Camper 2010 Merlot (California). years. —S.H. 85 For full review see page 15. Best Buy. Saintsbury 2009 Brown Ranch Pinot Noir abv: 14.4% Price: $65 abv: 13% Price: $9 94 (Carneros). Dry, elegant and complex, this is rich in red cherry, pomegranate and cola flavors, with

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 earthy complexities suggesting mushroom and dried Dutton-Goldfield 2010 Azaya Ranch from everything else, are rich, suggesting buttered toast herb. Beautiful to drink now, and it should improve in 91 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Marin County). Com- spread with raspberry jam and sprinkled with cinna- the bottle over the next six years. —S.H. prised of ripe raspberry and cherry fruit; sweet, smoky mon. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $60 new oak; and brisk, citrusy acidity; this dry Pinot Noir abv: 14.6% Price: $59 is fine and elegant. As for its ageability, all suggestions Bruliam 2010 Soberanes Vineyard Pi- are to drink it over the next four years, before the fruit Halleck 2008 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot 93 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is drops out. —S.H. 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). Tasting rich a great success in a challenging vintage. Dry and silky abv: 13.8% Price: $58 and vital, this has a wealth of raspberry, cherry and cola in the mouth, it’s marked by brisk acidity, firm tannins flavors to the long, spicy finish. It’s just what you want and intricate black-cherry, cola and licorice flavors. It Dutton-Goldfield 2010 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir to be: dry, silky and elegant. It doesn’t seem feels really interesting and changes with every sniff and 91 Freestone Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Rus- to be an ager, so drink by 2014. —S.H. sip. Very nice now, and it will develop over the next six sian River Valley). Acidity dominates this wine, giv- abv: 14.9% Price: $60 years. —S.H. ing it a tartness—like a squeeze of lime juice. Past that abv: 14.3% Price: $46 is an enormously rich, dry, vibrant wine, explosive in Hug 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Pinot Noir raspberries, cherries and ripe, sweet persimmons. New 90 (Santa Maria Valley). Big, rich and sappy, this Handley 2009 RSM Vineyard Pinot Noir French oak, with its caramel-like toastiness, is perfectly tastes like cherry and raspberry jam that has been boiled 93 (Anderson Valley). For full review see page in keeping with the wine’s volume. It’s a bit disjointed down and made into wine—a suggestion of its youth. 6. now, but give it 3–4 years in the cellar, and it should It is very fine, with keen acidity and a noble structure abv: 14.2% Price: $52 come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H. tinged with minerality. Give it 3–5 years to age. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $72 abv: 14.2% Price: $48 Keller 2009 Precioso Pinot Noir (Sonoma 93 Coast). For full review see page 6. Cellar Se- Francis Coppola 2009 Dutton Ranch Pi- Sandhi 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). lection. 91 not Noir (Russian River Valley). Coppola 90 Bold and expressive, this bursts with cher- abv: 14.2% Price: $75 turns to a respected grape source for Pinot, and what do ry, plum, cola and spice flavors. It offers lots of rich- you know? This is his best ever. It’s a lovely wine, supple ness that’s brightened with crisp acidity, finishing with Fulcrum 2010 Floodgate Vineyard Pinot and bright, with cherry, pomegranate and spicy persim- streamlined elegance. This is ready to drink over the 92 Noir (Russian River Valley). This Pinot mon flavors. The 50% new oak is perfectly integrated next 2–3 years. —S.H. tastes young and undeveloped, but it should go places. into the wine’s power. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 Evidence of its youth lies in the big tannins and acids abv: 14.5% Price: $35 and the way the fruit flavors are so fresh and primary. Sojourn 2010 Wohler Vineyard Pinot Noir Although it’s delicious in berries and currants, it just Sandhi 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot 90 (Russian River Valley). This is Sojourn’s hasn’t pulled together. It’s so balanced it should benefit 91 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Made in a leaner most successful 2010 Pinot Noir, because it’s the ripest from 4–5 years in a cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. style, with modest in alcohol, this swaps power for el- and most satisfying. It shows rich, tantalizing raspberry, abv: 14.3% Price: $54 egance. It’s streamlined, brisk and bone dry, with com- cherry and cola flavors that are brightened by brisk acid- plex flavors of sour cherry candy, cola, dusty spice and ity. It earns extra points for its complexity. —S.H. Keller 2009 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir sandalwood. With decanting this can be enjoyed now, abv: 14.2% Price: $48 92 (Sonoma Coast). Very rich and elegantly but try cellaring it for 5–6 years and see how it evolves structured, this shows the talented viticulture and su- in the bottle. —S.H. Thomas Fogarty 2010 Rapley Trail Vine- perior winemaking. Bone dry, it has powerful flavors of abv: 13.5% Price: $45 90 yard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz cherry pie filling, cola and pomegranate, with a mouth- Mountains). Easy to like now for its silky texture, brisk watering spiciness. The acidity is notable. Try pairing Twomey 2010 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- acidity and upfront raspberry and cherry jam flavors. It’s this with a salted and peppered steak. —S.H. 91 ley). For full review see page 9. textbook Pinot Noir, offering the lightness in the mouth abv: 14.3% Price: $44 abv: 13.6% Price: $46 you expect from this variety, yet packing plenty of pow- er. Give it an hour or two in the decanter, and it should Loma Prieta 2007 Saveria Vineyard Pinot Bruliam 2010 Deer Meadows Vineyard be lovely with beef, lamb or tuna. —S.H. 92 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). For full re- 90 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). There’s a abv: 14.3% Price: $55 view see page 5. simple directness to this wine. But, the flavors are de- abv: 14.4% Price: $50 licious, consisting of ripe cherries and pomegranates, Twomey 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River with a seemingly fruity sweetness that belies the dry fin- 90 Valley). This is bone dry, with lots of zesty acid- Thomas Fogarty 2010 Windy Hill Vine- ish. There’s also plenty of tart acidity and tannins. All ity and flavors of sour cherry candy, pomegranate and 92 yard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Santa of the parts, including the oak, haven’t come together, persimmon, with a mushroomy earthiness. It should Cruz Mountains). This is dry, silky and enormously so give it a 3–4 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. change over the next four years, although not necessar- complex, with flavors of raspberry, cherry, cola, new —S.H. ily improving. Try pairing it with steak, lamb or a rich oak and spice that satisfy through the long finish. The abv: 13.7% Price: $46 cut of ahi tuna. —S.H. mountain vineyard concentrated the fruit, yielding sa- abv: 13.6% Price: $50 vory power. It’s a beautiful Pinot Noir to drink now with Clos Pepe 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita steaks or lamb chops. —S.H. 90 Hills). Young, vibrant and juicy, this is a beau- Bruliam 2010 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard abv: 13.6% Price: $55 tiful Pinot Noir to drink now with fine foods ranging 89 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Superripe in from steak and lamb to tuna and salmon. It has a silky, flavors of cherry pie filling and spice, this Pinot Noir is Wild Horse 2008 Cheval Sauvage Pinot dry mouthfeel made brisk with acidity, while the flavors nice and dry. Brisk acidity accompanies the richness, 92 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Lightly silky, this veer toward red stone fruits and spices. —S.H. balancing it and brightening the mouthfeel. It seems has mouth-cleansing acidity and delicious red-cher- abv: 14.6% Price: $54 best now, so drink up. —S.H. ry pie, spice and sandalwood flavors. It’s really easy to abv: 14.1% Price: $46 drink now, elegant and complex. You can even give it a Clos Pepe 2010 Vigneron Select Pinot little chill on a hot night. —S.H. 90 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). An excellent, delicious J Vineyards & Winery 2010 Barrel 16 Es- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 wine, but it shows a slight imbalance of its parts due 89 tate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). to the limitations of the vintage. The flavors, isolated This is the winery’s most expensive Pinot, a barrel se- lection of its various vineyards. Its also J Vineyards’ best

WineMag.com | 55 2010 Pinot, but they struggled with the chilly, moldy with power, and so it achieves respect with its elegance. Longoria 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard vintage. The flavors of raspberry and cherry jam, mo- —S.H. 87 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). With an cha, cinnamon spice and exotic sandlewood are deli- abv: 14.2% Price: $42 earthiness that weighs down the cherry, cola and cur- cious, but they feel a little heavy. Drink now. —S.H. rant flavors, this Pinot tastes a bit heavy. It’s properly abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Sojourn 2010 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pi- dry, with good acidity and modest alcohol. —S.H. 88 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Very rich and full abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Keller 2009 El Coro Pinot Noir (Sonoma bodied, this offers flamboyant flavors of raspberry and 89 Coast). This has searing acidity and strong, cherry jam. It impresses with its sheer power, and it’s Martin Ray 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir upfront red-berry and oak flavors. It feels rustictic, but indisputably delicious. —S.H. 87 (Santa Cruz Mountains). This is an admi- it could be a Cinderella in the making, just waiting to abv: 14.6% Price: $48 rable wine that’s bone dry and tart in acidity. Flavors of evolve into a princess. If you’re a gambler, give it a cou- cherries, mushrooms and tobacco lead to a spicy finish. ple of years in the cellar. —S.H. Sojourn 2010 Ridgetop Vineyard Pinot Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $52 88 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Muscular and brawny abv: 14.2% Price: $40 are a few words to describe this Pinot Noir. Blackber- Rockroom Winemaking Cooperative ry, cherry, licorice, bacon and spice flavors flood the Wait Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian 89 2010 Amber Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir mouth, leading to a seemingly sweet, long finish. Not 87 River Valley). With cherry, cola, oak and spice (Russian River Valley). Sweet oak and upfront rasp- particularly subtle now, and a little warm, but it could flavors, this is a nice Pinot to drink now. It’s dry and crisp berry- and cherry-jam flavors mark this Pinot. It’s not resolve its contradictions in 5–6 years. —S.H. in acidity, with some sweet richness. —S.H. particularly complex, but it is delicious, and the brisk abv: 14.4% Price: $59 abv: 14.4% Price: $36 acidity make it shiny and clean in the mouth. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $44 Storm 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val- Wait Cellars 2009 Devoto Garden Vine- 88 ley). This is a worthy followup to Storm’s fine 87 yard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). This has Rockroom Winemaking Cooperative 2008 bottling. Although it’s not quite as rich, it does flavors of cherry and blackberry jam, cola and spice. It’s 89 2010 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir provide a pleasing Pinot Noir experience. The wine crisp in acidity and dry, as Pinot should be. This is di- (Sta. Rita Hills). There is some tension between the is very dry, tart in acidity and clean, with rich cherry, rect and polished; it’s not likely to get better with age, so strong, tart acidity and the flavors of ripe red cherries pomegranate and mushroom notes. —S.H. drink now. —S.H. and smoky oak. If you pop the cork now, give it a good abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $27 decant. If you’re a gambler, it could blossom by 2016. —S.H. Williams Selyem 2010 Pinot Noir (So- Williams Selyem 2010 Westside Road abv: 14.3% Price: $44 88 noma Coast). Acidity hits the tongue like a 87 Neighbors Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- squeeze of lime juice, making it savory and mouthwa- ley). A blend of the winery’s various vineyard sources EnRoute 2010 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir tering. It really needs food to help it soften. Bone dry in the Russian River Valley, this is soft and rich, with 88 (Russian River Valley). Very good and deli- and elegantly structured, it has pleasant flavors of sour berry, cherry and oak flavors. Performance wise, it’s a cious, if not quite up there with the warmer vintages of cherry candy, pomegranate and spice. —S.H. little off from the past several years—no doubt due to 2007 and 2008. The winemaker has done a yeoman’s abv: 14.1% Price: $49 the challenges of the difficult 2010 vintage—so drink job with this wine—considering the difficult vintage— up. —S.H. coaxing out pleasant raspberry- and cherry-jam flavors. Ghostwriter 2010 Woodruff Family Vine- abv: 13.9% Price: $69 The finish is dry and spicy. Drink now. —S.H. 87 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). abv: 14.8% Price: $65 One of the palest, lightest Pinots out there; the cold Arista 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). vintage seems to have taken its toll, making the wine low 86 This smells and tastes thin and a little unripe, Firestone 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara in alcohol and delicately flavored in sour cherry candy, with a subtle vegetal notes that are subtle that will limit 88 County). This is one of the best Pinot Noirs in orange zest and flat cola. Drink up. —S.H. it’s aging. Flavors of sour black-cherry candy and toasty this price range. It’s softly delicious and instantly drink- abv: 13.2% Price: $45 oak are on the surface. —S.H. able, with rich layers of raspberries, cherries, mocha, abv: 14.2% Price: $35 anise and sandalwood—3,287 cases were produced. J Vineyards & Winery 2010 Freestone —S.H. 87 Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Clos La Chance 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa abv: 14.9% Price: $24 Valley). Surprisingly soft and seemingly sweet for this 86 Cruz Mountains). Here’s a soft Pinot Noir vineyard, which comes from the cooler Freestone area that’s rich in raspberries, cherries and roasted almonds, Ghostwriter 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz of the western Russian River Valley. It’s delicious in with a smoky coating of oak. It’s seems a little sugary 88 Mountains). Racy and sleek, this low-alcohol cherry, cola, mocha and spice flavors, but it feels heavy. sweet—like a melted granola bar. —S.H. Pinot has a silky transparency that makes it feel just fine —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 in the mouth. The raspberry and cola flavors have a nice abv: 14.2% Price: $60 hint of smoky oak. Drink now. —S.H. Deep Sea 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Bar- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 J Vineyards & Winery 2010 Robert Thom- 86 bara County). This has delicious flavors of 87 as Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River cola, cherry pie filling and spice, with a flashy coating Rockroom Winemaking Cooperative 2010 Valley). This vineyard produces quite good Pinots for J of smoky oak. It’s all on the surface, but it sure is tasty. 88 Bohemian Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian Vineyards. The 2010 is ripe enough in cherry, raspberry —S.H. River Valley). The 2010 vintage was marked with cool and cola flavors, with good balancing acidity. It’s a bit abv: 14.6% Price: $36 conditions, but the winemaker’s art shows in the deli- heavy, though. Cellar at your own risk. —S.H. cious fruit, which veers toward red berries. The oak has abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Fulcrum 2010 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pi- been tastefully applied. Drink now. —S.H. 86 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Fulcrum’s Gap’s abv: 15% Price: $44 Kendall-Jackson 2010 Vintner’s Reserve Crown bottling is extremely influenced by the vintage 87 Pinot Noir (California). A very nice Pinot conditions. It does better in warmer years, and 2010 Sojourn 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- Noir that’s dry and silky, with satisfying cherry, cola, oak was not. As a result, this is acidic, without much rich- 88 er Valley). A very interesting wine. At first it and spice flavors. Not one to age, but fine for drinking ness. It has some cherry and cola fruit, and the oak is seems quite slender—compared to the bigger, riper now, and easily as good as many Pinots costing more. significant. Drink now. —S.H. Pinots. The flavors of sour cherry candy and cola are —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $56 light, minerally and tart. This wine doesn’t try to stun abv: 13.5% Price: $19

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Halleck 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir ple, this has flavors of raspberry and cherry jam and Arista 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River 86 (Sonoma Coast). This has strong acidity giv- cola, which are slightly compromised by some unripe- 83 Valley). The lack of ripeness makes this wine ing a sour candy taste to the raspberry and cherry fla- ness. It’s not likely to improve with age, so drink up. difficult to like. There’s a strong vegetal note alongside vors. The oak overlay is just fine, the texture is silky, and —S.H. the cherry and oak flavors. —S.H. the finish is dry, but that acidity will likely never go away. abv: 14.6% Price: $65 abv: 14.4% Price: $45 —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $100 Halleck 2008 Three Sons Cuvée Pinot Bernardus 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia 85 Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s a veg- 83 Highlands). Soft, sweet and simple, this Pi- Halleck 2008 Hillside Cuvée Pinot Noir etal touch to the raspberries and cherries that compro- not reflects the difficulties of the vintage. It has some 86 (Sonoma Coast). As this wine ages, a touch mises this Pinot Noir. It’s nicely dry and crisp in acidity, candied cherry and oak flavors but seems a little out of of vegetal unripeness slowly emerges. It’s not too strong, with a silky texture, but it’s not likely to improve with balance. —S.H. but it does detract from the cherry and cola flavors. The age, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 mouthfeel is just beautiful, soft, silky and dry. Drink up. abv: 14.9% Price: $42 —S.H. Dahlia 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey Coun- abv: 14.2% Price: $50 J. Lohr 2010 Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir (Ar- 83 ty). This smells weedy and green, but tastes a 85 royo Seco). The fog reached a little too far little richer, with flavors of baked cherry pie, mint and Hug 2009 Cedar Lane Vineyard Pinot into the vineyard in 2010, judging from this less-than- tobacco. It’s a good Pinot for drinking now. —S.H. 86 Noir (Arroyo Seco). The Arroyo Seco region fully-ripe Pinot Noir. Although it has some decent cher- abv: 14.4% Price: $20 of Monterey has yet to prove that it can move beyond ry fruit, it lacks fruity richness, which makes the acidity dryness and acidity to produce Pinot Noirs of real qual- stick out. —S.H. Hug 2010 la Graciosa Pinot Noir (Central ity. This is rustic, although it has tasty flavors of cherries, abv: 14.9% Price: $35 83 Coast). Dry and acidic, this has cherry flavors cola and spices. Drink now. —S.H. with a boiled asparagus edge. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $30 Limerick Lane 2009 Estate Grown Pinot abv: 14.5% Price: $45 85 Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a simple Sojourn 2010 Rodger’s Creek Vineyard but attractive Pinot Noir that’s dry and silky, with rich Arista 2010 Longbow Pinot Noir (Russian 86 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Soft, ripe raspberry, cherry, cola and sandalwood flavors. It’s ready 82 River Valley). Green, unripe vegetal notes se and direct, bearing cherry pie and baking spice flavors to drink now. —S.H. compromise this Pinot Noir. It’s dry, crisp and elegantly wrapped in a silky texture. It’s technically dry, but it abv: 14.2% Price: $36 structured, but the mint and broccoli notes diminish the tastes sweet like a sour candy. Drink up. —S.H. cherry-berry fruit. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $48 Longoria 2010 Rancho Santa Rosa Vine- abv: 14.4% Price: $48 85 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This Pi- Sojourn 2010 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pi- not tastes warm, soft and seemingly sweet—like a cher- B.R. Cohn 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- 86 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Some less-than- ry cola drink without the carbonation—making it feel 82 er Valley). A simple Pinot Noir that was a lit- ripe vegetal flavors compromise the riper notes of syrupy. —S.H. tle sweet and spritzy. Tastes like carbonated raspberry blackberry and cherry. On the plus side, it’s dry and rich abv: 15.6% Price: $45 soda. —S.H. in acids and tannins. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Williams Selyem 2010 Pinot Noir (So- 85 noma County). This has some simple flavors Block Nine 2011 Caiden’s Vineyards Pi- Wild Horse 2010 Pinot Noir (Central of sour cherry candy and oak. The structure is overly 82 not Noir (California). Green and jagged in 86 Coast). A success for its wealth of succulent soft and lacking tension. Drink up. —S.H. the mouth, this has modest cherry and spice flavors, raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s an easy Pinot Noir to abv: 13.9% Price: $37 with a bite of acidity. —S.H. drink now, with brisk acidity. Try it with beef, pork or abv: 13.1% Price: $13 chicken tamales. —S.H. Casa de la Cruz 2009 Pinot Noir (So- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 84 noma Coast). This has slender raspberry and Dahlia 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Mon- cherry fruit. As a result, the acidity dominates, giving 82 terey County). This is soft, sweet and syrupy, Williams Selyem 2010 Pinot Noir (Central the wine a sour candy tartness. In its favor, it’s nicely dry, with a cherry pie flavor. —S.H. 86 Coast). This Pinot is soft and for drinking now. and it feels silky. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 It has some rich raspberry, cherry and cola fruit, with abv: 14.2% Price: $25 acidity that scours. Not up there with the winery’s previ- Dancing Creek 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa ous bottlings. —S.H. Handley 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- 82 Cruz Mountains). A simple wine, it tastes abv: 13.8% Price: $37 84 ley). Soft and common, this has gentle berry, soft and slightly sweet, with candied raspberry flavors. cola and spice flavors that finish seemingly sweet and —S.H. Williams Selyem 2010 Pinot Noir (Rus- syrupy. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $26 86 sian River Valley). This shows fine acidity abv: 14.2% Price: $32 and tannins, and the finish is properly dry. It offers slen- Scott Family 2010 Dijon Clone Pinot Noir der flavors of cherry, cola and pomegranate, with rich Martin Ray 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- 82 (Arroyo Seco). This is soft and simple, with oak influence. Drink up. —S.H. 84 er Valley). There’s something subtlely unripe flavors of cherry, cola and earth. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $49 about this Pinot Noir. It show up in the aroma, with a abv: 14.5% Price: $39 trace of stewed asparagus. Still, it’s dry and elegant, and Clos du Val 2010 Lone Cypress Ranch the flavors of sour cherry candy and sandalwood make Bryter 2009 Hayley Vineyard Pinot Noir 85 Buhman Creek Block Pinot Noir (Carne- it all right. —S.H. 80 (Anderson Valley). This is acidic and sweet, ros). Like so many of its previous bottlings, this one’s abv: 14% Price: $40 with a medicinal taste. —S.H. dry and and elegantly structured, though it just doesn’t abv: 14.2% Price: $36 summon opulence. —S.H. Talley 2010 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Ar- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 84 royo Grande Valley). Dry and acidic, this has flavors of cola and sour cherry candy. This unlikely to Halleck 2008 The Farm Vineyards Pinot develop with age, so drink up. —S.H. 85 Noir (Russian River Valley). Soft and sim- abv: 14.4% Price: $36

WineMag.com | 57 SYRAH vors and a nice structure of acids and tannins, it’s just Fields Family 2010 Sherman Family Vine- not rich enough to merit a higher score. —S.H. 91 yards Zinfandel (Lodi). This is a complex Nickel & Nickel 2009 Darien Vineyard abv: 14.9% Price: $24 Lodi old-vine Zinfandel with boysenberry and black- 93 Syrah (Russian River Valley). For full re- berry notes poking through layers of complexity and view see page 6. Muscardini 2009 Unti Vineyards Syr- a touch of dusty plum. It has a strata of black licorice abv: 14.9% Price: $50 84 ah (Dry Creek Valley). Soft and seemingly throughout the midpalate, with a peppery, wild herb fla- sweet, this tastes like like a raspberry, mocha, roasted vor keeping it interesting. Notes of espresso and leath- Longoria 2009 Syrah (Santa Barbara almond and smoky vanilla biscotti cookie. —S.H. er mark the finish, and a controlled amount of acidity 92 County). A superior Syrah for its dryness, firm abv: 15.9% Price: $32 keeps in balance. —V.B. texture and restrained yet powerful flavors. Feels really abv: 14.7% Price: $24 fine in the mouth, with complex, rolling tannins that sup- Hug 2010 el Chico Syrah (Central Coast). port waves of blackberry, bacon and sandalwood flavors, 82 This Syrah is just too high in alcohol. Nearing Eberle 2008 Wine-Bush Vineyard 60% as well as something floral—violets, perhaps. Distin- 16% abv, it’s as hot as a chili pepper. Some wines can 90 Steinbeck Vineyard 40% Zinfandel (Paso guished all the way through, it’s fine for drinking now with handle that. As it’s slender in flavor, it can’t handle the Robles). For full review see page 10. foods like duck, game, steak or roasted chicken. —S.H. heat. The addition of some Monterey County fruit adds abv: 15.5% Price: $26 abv: 14.9% Price: $34 acidity and freshness. —S.H. abv: 15.9% Price: $29 Schulz 2009 Lampyridae Vineyard Zin- Firestone 2009 Syrah (Central Coast). 89 fandel (Mount Veeder). This is a definitive 90 Distinguished in its texture, this Syrah boasts Muscardini 2009 Gracie Creek Vineyards Mount Veeder Zin, jam packed and complex in notes of smooth, complex tannins and a bright burst of acidity, 80 Syrah (Sonoma Valley). This tastes barely blackberries, sweet raspberries and red currants, with which provides the framework for rich flavors of black- ripe, with a vegetal flavor compromsing the chocolate spice, cola and smoky oak tones. It’s a little on the soft berries, plums, bacon and spices. Drink soon for its and cherry notes. It’s soft, making it fall a little flat in side, with luscious tannins. Ready to drink now. —S.H. youthful vigor. —S.H. the mouth. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 15.8% Price: $32 Andis Wines 2010 Estate Zinfandel Lafond 2010 SRH Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). 88 (Amador County). This has notes of black 88 This feels voluptuous and velvet, with soft, gen- PETITE SIRAH cherry and smoky tar. It’s tannins can barely be wrapped tle tannins carrying loads of ripe blackberry, currant, Claudia Springs 2009 Vittorio’s Vineyard around one’s lips on first sip, but let the wine open (and/ crispy bacon and black pepper. It’s a bit rustic around 88 Petite Sirah (Redwood Valley). Dry and or age) and its black cherry, berry, coffee and mint com- the edges, though. —S.H. leathery, this is a classic, old-school Petite Sirah. It’s in- ponents swirl together in exciting ways. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $23 tense and full bodied, with round edges that make it abv: 14.5% Price: $28 ingriguing and easy to drink. —V.B. Limerick Lane 2009 Block 1910 Zinfan- Cielo Malibu Estate Vineyards 2009 abv: 14.9% Price: $26 87 Blackcrow Mountain Syrah (Saddle 88 del (Russian River Valley). Textbook Rus- Rock-Malibu). Rich, soft and sweet, this has elaborate Shannon Ridge 2009 Ranch Collection sian River Zin, this is a big, powerful, lusty wine, with a blackberry and cherry pie, mocha, cola, bacon and spice 87 Petite Sirah (Lake County). Fresh, full bod- briary, brambly profile. It’s enormously complex in fla- flavors. A pretty wine, easy to drink now. —S.H. ied and juicy, this has flavors of dusty, dark plum and vor, offering notes of fresh summer berry, cola, licorice, abv: 14.4% Price: $100 chocolate. It was aged in both French and American dark chocolate and leather that are delicious and savory. oak, which has added a background note of tobacco and It’s also a little overripe, which brings raisin and prune Kessler-Haak 2009 Turner Vineyard Syr- vanilla on the palate, particularly on the finish. —V.B. notes. It’s a great barbecue wine. —S.H. 87 ah (Sta. Rita Hills). Rich and dry, this has fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.6% Price: $48 vors of cola, cherry pie, bacon and black pepper. The tannins are firm, and there’s a bright burst of citrusy Spellbound 2010 Petite Sirah (Califor- Pech Merle 2010 Cuccio Zinfandel (Dry acidity to make things lively. Not an ager, but it should 87 nia). Most of the grapes for this wine were 88 Creek Valley). This showcases the varietal’s benefit from another year in the cellar. —S.H. sourced in Lodi. For a 24,000-case production, this has rustic side, with edgy tannins and a briary mouthfeel abv: 14.5% Price: $32 plenty of personality. Spice, tobacco and coffee notes framing cherry, raspberry, spice and tobacco flavors. It’s jump out first, followed by straightforward blueberry, dry and very high in alcohol, which gives it a glycerine- Schulz 2009 Fortunati Vineyard Syr- jammy yumminess. —V.B. based sweetness. This does a good job expressing the es- 86 ah (Oak Knoll). This is very ripe, with jam- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 sential Dry Creek Zinfandel character. —S.H. my blackberry and cherry flavors that have a touch of abv: 15.5% Price: $27 plumped raisin and even a touch of milk chocolate. It’s technically dry, but all that richness lends it unctuous- ZINFANDEL Red Table Cellars 2009 Corvino Bosco ness. —S.H. 88 Vineyard Zinfandel (San Francisco Bay). abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Château Potelle 2009 VGS Zinfandel A Zin brimming with berry deliciousness, this is lush- 92 (Mount Veeder). Château Potelle started ly fruit forward with a dusty coat and hints of cracked Clos La Chance 2010 Estate Syrah (Cen- making Zinfandel from Mount Veeder a long time ago. black pepper for good measure. It has a great, long, co- 85 tral Coast). Lots of black pepper and other They’ve had their ups and downs, but the winery is coa-kissed finish. —V.B. spice notes give this a zinginess that brightens and lifts the back in force. The ’09 Zin is intense with a spicy char- abv: 14.8% Price: $25 wild berry, bacon and Dr. Pepper flavors. It has a light- acter. The black currant, prune and dark chocolate fla- bodied purity that makes it easy to drink now. —S.H. vors should pair well with fancy beef and game dishes. Scott Harvey 2009 Old Vine Reserve Zin- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 —S.H. 88 fandel (Amador County). This is an austere, abv: 14.8% Price: $65 very structured, leathery Zin, with notes of briary black Eberle 2010 Steinbeck Vineyard Syrah pepper and dark, ripe fruit from start to finish. —V.B. 84 (Paso Robles). There’s a vegetal touch in this Williams Selyem 2009 Forchini Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $32 dry, earthy Syrah. Despite some cherry and mocha fla- 92 South Knoll Zinfandel (Russian River Val- ley). For full review see page 7. Sobon Estate 2010 Hillside Zinfandel abv: 14.7% Price: $50 88 (California). A super bang for the buck, this is brimming with intense mountain blackberry fruit. It’s

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 soft, with supple tannins and a long, cocoa-laced finish. Limerick Lane 2009 Block 1970 Zinfandel and refined wine whose acidity would pair well with a Stock up on this for your next outdoor barbecue. Best 85 (Russian River Valley). Strongly flavored in wide range of meals, especially grilled steak. —V.B. Buy. —V.B. wild berries, tobacco and cola, this also has a vegetal abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.6% Price: $13 note lurking around the edges. It’s likeable for its dry- ness and firm tannins, which should perform well with Andis Wines 2010 Barbera (Amador Amador Foothill Winery 2008 Esola Vine- a steak. —S.H. 88 County). Andis’s 100% Barbera tempts with 87 yard Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). abv: 14.4% Price: $36 ripe, dried black-cherry and mint flavors, and toasty Amador Foothill does a nice job with Esola’s 67-year- layers of coffee and toffee that linger until the finish. old, dry-farmed Zin, making a wine that has dusty straw- Sledgehammer 2009 Zinfandel (North —V.B. berry and cherry goodness interwoven around a toasty, 85 Coast). Spicy and fruity, this has notes of rasp- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 oaky base. —V.B. berry and cola, with a brisk, full-bodied mouthfeel. It’s abv: 14.4% Price: $18 easy to drink with pasta or barbecue. —S.H. Muscardini 2010 Pauli Ranch Barbera abv: 15.1% Price: $16 88 (Redwood Valley). For full review see page Pech Merle 2010 Treborce Zinfandel 12. 87 (Dry Creek Valley). This has a powerful, bri- 3 Steves Winery 2009 Zinfandel (Ciene- abv: 14.9% Price: $38 ary character, with a spicy, high-alcohol kick. It erupts in 84 ga Valley). This opens with an aroma of cola the mouth, with flavors of wild berry, tobacco, cola, an- syrup, and it seems devoid of a tannic structure and a Sobon Estate 2010 Barbera (Amador ise and white pepper that should pair well with equally finish. —V.B. 87 County). A crowd-pleasing Barbera full of spicy fare, preferably fatty meats and cheeses. —S.H. abv: 16.2% Price: $24 muted dark fruit, leathery aromas accented by cher- abv: 14.9% Price: $27 ry cola and blue and blackberry flavors that’s soft and Terra d’Oro 2009 Zinfandel (Amador drinkable and packed with acidity. —V.B. Sobon Estate 2009 Rocky Top Vineyard 84 County). This wine has soft tannins, with abv: 13.8% Price: $13 87 Zinfandel (Amador County). Rocky Top is heaps of vanilla-cherry and raspberry notes and a one of Sobon’s top bottlings, and this one delivers nicely. herbal hit on the finish that leans green. A blend of Montevina 2010 Barbera (Amador Coun- It has a big, fruity structure, with blackberry and cocoa 88% Zinfandel, with smaller amounts of Petite Sirah, 84 ty). A simple Barbera, this has lots of black flavors, particularly on the long finish. —V.B. Teroldego and Barbera from one of Amador’s historic cherry and toasty oak characteristics. Drink now. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $17 producers. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Limerick Lane 2009 Block 1934 Zinfan- 86 del (Russian River Valley). Masses of spices Windmill 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). OTHER RED WINES and exotic wild berries mark this powerful Zinfandel. 84 Soft, round and very ripe, this is simple and Bumgarner 2008 Tempranillo (El Do- Focusing on the varietal’s wild, briary side, this is not straightforward, with big, chewy tannins and fla- 89 rado). Black in color, rich and lush, this is at all subtle, but instead wrestles the palate into sub- vors of cola and cinnamon. Bright on the nose, it is a broodingly stunning Tempranillo, with smoke, tar, mission with the sheer force of its personality. It’s dry, full-bodied and heavy in the mouth, and it screams out blueberry and black currant flavors that are rounded out with plenty of fruit, but it also has an overripe, pruny for hearty heaps of grilled food. —V.B. by notes of earthy coffee and minerality. It’s a big boy in flavor. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $12 every way; so lay this bottle down for a few years, and it abv: 14.6% Price: $42 should only get more intensely interesting. —V.B. Armida 2010 Poizin Zinfandel (Sonoma abv: 14.3% Price: $27 Precedent 2010 Evangelho Vineyard 83 County). This is rude and rustic, with sharply 86 Zinfandel (Contra Costa County). A acidic, jammy berry flavors that veer into plumped rai- Chatom Vineyards 2008 Touriga Nacio- full-bodied, full-flavored Zin, this is packed with baking sin territory. Drink it with a pizza or a burger. —S.H. 88 nal (Calaveras County). This is dark in color spice, classic blackberry and leather notes. It has great abv: 14.8% Price: $25 and plush, with rustic tannins. It’s beautifully crafted, length and a spicy finish, and it should please many Cali- giving off perfumed notes of violet, dried cherry and Green Truck 2009 Zinfandel (Mendocino fornia Zin fans. —V.B. leather. Fullbodied, it has a lingering spice note. —V.B. County). abv: 15.4% Price: $25 83 This is a simple Zinfandel that tastes abv: 13.9% Price: $24 of wild-raspberry syrup. It’s made from organic grapes. Sobon Estate 2010 Old Vines Zinfandel —V.B. Loma Prieta 2009 Amorosa Vineyard Pi- 86 (Amador County). This is a briary, low-priced abv: 13.5% Price: $14 87 notage (Lodi). This needs decanting, but af- Zinfandel that has notes of smoky toast and clove, with ter some air this Pinotage—a rarity in California—bears Clos La Chance 2010 Estate Zinfan- dry, mountainous tannins. It’s perfumed with aromas of aromas of dark plum, cherry and leather pouch, fol- del (Central Coast). Harsh in the mouth, raspberry and violet. —V.B. 82 lowed by a deep root-beer note. Strong in flavor and with sharp acidity and uneven tannins, this has a abv: 14.9% Price: $13 body, the finish veers bitter before righting itself back candied-berry flavor. —S.H. on course. —V.B. Sobon Estate 2009 Fiddletown Zinfandel abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 15.1% Price: $45 86 (Fiddletown). This is a toasty Zinfandel burst- Hug 2010 el Magnifico Zinfandel (Paso ing with aromas and flavors of smoked meat and black- Mt. Konocti Winery 2009 Tempranil- Robles). This is hot in alcohol, and it has a berry jam. Soft, round and easy to drink, this should pair 81 lo (Lake County). This is a fragrant and vegetal note, with modest berry fruit. The finish seems 87 well with barbecue or similarly smoked meats. —V.B. full-bodied Tempranillo, with flavors of sweet cherry sweet—like cola. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $22 and plum and a leathery, long-lasting finish. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $29 abv: 14.8% Price: $26 Frei Brothers 2010 Reserve Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). 85 There are lots of lusty BARBERA Hug 2009 el Maestro Grenache (Central flavors of briary wild berries, currants, sweet cured to- 85 Coast). Hug has succeeded in using Grenache bacco and peppery spices in this dry Zinfandel. It has Andis Wines 2010 Cooper Ranch Bar- as a blending grape, but this bottling, which is 80% va- smooth tannins and brisk acidity; by itself, it’s rustic, but 89 bera (Amador County). This has heady aro- rietal, shows the problems associated with the grape richly sauced meats should help tame it. —S.H. matics, with flavors of blackberry and cranberry swirling abv: 14.9% Price: $20 around layers of vanilla and roasted coffee. It’s a smooth

WineMag.com | 59 in California. It has cherry and mocha flavors, but falls flavors. It’s delicate but full flavored, with concentration mixed apple and crisp pear, with a suggestion of cucum- short in structure and complexity. —S.H. and length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ber and green melon. A great summer sipper. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $30 abv: 12.2% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $12

Cimarone 2009 Grand Premio Three Jones of Washington 2011 Estate Vine- Boomtown 2011 Pinot Gris (Washing- 83 Creek Vineyard Sangiovese (Happy Can- 90 yards Chardonnay (Wahluke Slope). For 85 ton). This is crisp and tangy, with a slightly yon of Santa Barbara). Sharp acidity gives the cher- full review see page 13. Best Buy. beer-accented nose. Cucumber and apple flavors are ry flavor cut; the finish is dry and clean. It’s a simple abv: 14.3% Price: $15 found, with a touch of canned asparagus. —P.G. wine for drinking with easy fare, like a pizza or a great abv: 13.5% Price: $15 cheeseburger. —S.H. Mercer 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 89 ley). Completing a quartet of excellent white- wine releases from Mercer, this lively, balanced Char- RIESLING Hug 2009 el Forastero Mourvèdre (Cen- donnay comes on steely. It’s clean and textural, with a Nefarious Cellars 2010 Stone’s Throw tral Coast). 82 Made from 100% Mourvèdre, this mix of citrus flesh and rind, apple and melon. There is Vineyard Estate Grown Riesling (Co- is a soft, simple wine, with a modest cherry and sweet even a hint of lemon cream, keeping the finish light and 93 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 6. Editors’ oak flavor. It’s dry and has nice tannins. —S.H. refreshing. —P.G. Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $29 abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $18 Castle Rock 2010 Chardonnay (Colum- Gamache Vintners 2010 Estate Riesling bia Valley). For full review see page 14. Best DESSERT WINES 88 (Columbia Valley). A leesy, textural, racy Buy. 92 Chalk Hill 2009 Botrytised Sémillon and refreshing Riesling, this is loaded with lime, grape- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 95 (Chalk Hill). This is absolutely delicious, of- fruit and melon flavors. There is a streak of gin-like bo- fering heady waves of orange marmalade, butterscotch tanicals as well, and a rich, resonant finish. Editors’ Waterbrook 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia candy, crème brûlée and honey that are wildly opulent. Choice. —P.G. Valley). Broadly aromatic, with lush buttered- This is a go-to bottling for very sweet, unctuous Califor- 87 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 popcorn scents dominating, this tasty Chardonnay is nia dessert wines. —S.H. made for immediate enjoyment. It offers excellent val- abv: 12% Price: $44/375 ml Mercer 2010 Riesling (Yakima Valley). ue, clean fruit, and a buttery finish found in much pric- For full review see page 13. Best Buy. Best Buy. 91 Estate 1856 NV Dessert Wine (Sonoma ier bottlings. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $15 abv: 13.4% Price: $12 84 County). Made from Bordeaux varieties, this wine is fantastically sweet, with white sugar and honey O•S Winery 2011 Riesling (Columbia Milbrandt Vineyards 2011 Traditions flavors. But it’s also soft and thin in fruity concentration, Valley). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Yeasty, al- 91 offering modest blackberry and cherry fruit. —S.H. 86 abv: 9.8% Price: $15 most tasting like beer, this Chardonnay may need a bit abv: 17.4% Price: $30/375 ml more bottle age to show its best. A peppery, herbal ele- Pacific Rim 2011 Dry Riesling (Columbia Totally Random NV Peach White (Califor- ment surfaces, with a crisp green-apple flavor. —P.G. Valley). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 91 82 nia). This peach-flavored wine is sweet in hon- abv: 12.8% Price: $11 ey and brisk in acidity. —S.H. abv: 11% Price: $10 PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO Tempus Cellars 2011 Evergreen Vine- 90 yard Riesling (Columbia Valley). Another Jones of Washington 2011 Estate Vine- successful vintage for this wine, it maintains a clean, WASHINGTON 91 yards Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). For well-defined mouthfeel that barely registers the 1.3% full review see page 12. Best Buy. residual sugar. The aromas of pear, melon and citrus CHARDONNAY abv: 12.4% Price: $12 rind introduce similar flavors, along with a suggestion of sweet orange candy. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Rulo 2010 Chardonnay (Walla Walla Val- Mercer 2010 Pinot Gris (Columbia Val- abv: 11.7% Price: $16 95 ley). Simply astonishing for its price, this toasty, 90 ley). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. rich wine matches ripe flavors of peach, red apple and abv: 12.9% Price: $15 Washington Hills 2011 Riesling (Wash- light tropical fruit. Thick, juicy, and seductive, it finish- 90 ington). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. es with a lick of butterscotch. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Wind Rose 2011 Pinot Grigio (Yakima abv: 11.5% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $20 90 Valley). This is a well-made, delicately floral style of Pinot Grigio, with notes of apple blossoms, crisp Gård Vintners 2010 Lawrence Vineyards Boudreaux Cellars 2010 Unfiltered Char- tree fruits and bracing minerals that add length and tex- 88 Dry Riesling (Columbia Valley). Tart and 93 donnay (Columbia Valley). This is remark- ture. Best Buy. —P.G. juicy, this nicely balanced Riesling mixes fruit flavors able, with modest alcohol and a concentrated, agewor- abv: 13.2% Price: $14 of orange, Meyer lemon and tangerine. The acids are thy structure. Lime and pineapple flavors are enhanced natural and tangy, and the overall balance is just right. with lively, gin-like botanicals. There is vivid acidity and Alexandria Nicole 2011 A Squared Pinot —P.G. a lick of butterscotch on the finish. Cellar Selection. 89 Gris (Columbia Valley). This excellent Pinot abv: 13.9% Price: $20 —P.G. Gris balances aromas and flavors of citrus blossom and abv: 12.5% Price: $35 tart apple. Fermented in stainless steel, it retains firm J. Bookwalter 2011 Notebook Ries- acidity and a pleasing, textural finish. Best Buy. —P.G. 88 ling (Columbia Valley). This is a big-style, Rulo 2011 Sundance Vineyard Chardon- abv: 13.4% Price: $14 full-bodied Riesling, with fleshy citrus notes of grape- 91 nay (Wahluke Slope). Labeled “Stainless fruit and orange. As is often true in Washington, Cuvée,” this stainless-steel-aged Chardonnay is defi- Blue Pirate 2010 Pinot Gris (Columbia the residual sugar (1.6%) is entirely masked by the nitely European in style. A fine contrast to Rulo’s toasty 86 Valley). This pleasant quaff displays flavors of acidity. —P.G. Walla Walla cuvée, this has minerally apple and citrus abv: 13.2% Price: $15

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Jones of Washington 2011 Estate Vine- VIOGNIER it’s a mix of lime, melon and kiwi flavors that are etched 88 yards Riesling (Columbia Valley). A pleas- with skin phenolics, putting some delicious bite into the ing, well-crafted Riesling in a lighter, elegant mode, this Jones of Washington 2011 Estate Vine- finish. —P.G. brings a delicate stone-fruit flavor into a mix of miner- 90 yards Viognier (Wahluke Slope). For full abv: 13.6% Price: $22 al and breakfast tea highlights. The moderate alcohol review see page 13. Best Buy. makes it an ideal summer sipper. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $15 Covington Cellars 2011 Blanc Sauvignon abv: 12.5% Price: $12 88 Blanc-Semillon (Red Mountain). Using Nefarious Cellars 2010 Defiance Vine- grapes sourced from Klipsun Vineyard, this is a roughly Pacific Rim 2011 Riesling (Columbia Val- 90 yard Viognier (Lake Chelan). As with all even Sauvignon Blanc–Sémillon blend. Flavors of sweet 88 ley). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. Nefarious wines, balance is the key to success. Whiffs of toast, lemon verbena and melon, with a hint of mint and a abv: 11.5% Price: $11 toast, smoke and sea breeze introduce a delicate, estate- splash of orange soda are all in evidence. Nicely nuanced, grown wine, with pretty melon, pear and apple notes. this does not overreach, but rather zooms in on the de- Lake Chelan 2010 Sweet Riesling (Lake Complex and graceful. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. tails of aroma and flavor that keep it interesting. —P.G. 84 Chelan). Not really sweet, and not entire- abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13.2% Price: $25 ly Riesling (the blend includes 13% Gewürztraminer and 10% Pinot Gris), this off-dry wine tastes like fresh William Church 2011 Viognier (Colum- Nefarious Cellars 2010 Consequence squeezed apple juice, lightly sweetened. —P.G. 90 bia Valley). William Church has outdone itself 88 (Washington). The blend is 55% Sauvignon abv: 12.4% Price: $20 with this new Viognier, a mix of fruit from Conner Lee Blanc, 40% Aligoté and 5% Viognier, much as in past and Gamache Vineyards. A leesy, yeasty, textural un- vintages. It’s a pretty, fruity and aromatic wine, just derpinning complements the tangy lemon, lime, grape- slightly sweet (1.5% residual sugar); and it hits the pal- SAUVIGNON BLANC fruit and tangerine flavors. It’s superfresh and delicious. ate softly, with flavors of fresh grass, melon, citrus and Waterbrook 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Co- —P.G. honeysuckle. —P.G. 91 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 13. abv: 13.6% Price: $22 abv: 13.4% Price: $18 Best Buy. Hard Row To Hoe 2011 Shameless Hus- abv: 14% Price: $12 eleven 2010 Viognier (Yakima Valley). A 88 pretty bouquet of honeysuckle, lime and orange 86 sy Roussanne-Viognier (Columbia Val- Flying Dreams 2010 Sauvignon Blanc peel introduces this well-made Viognier. It offers pleas- ley). This 50-50 blend is tart and spicy, with 1% resid- 90 (Columbia Valley). A textbook example of ing richness across the palate, with some phenolic edgi- ual sugar. Apple, pear and nectarine flavors combine in Washington Sauvignon Blanc, this is bright, racy, juicy ness sparking the finish. —P.G. this easy-drinking, pleasant quaff. It finishes more acid- and vibrant, with an array of crisp, clean fruit flavors. abv: 13.4% Price: $24 ic than the residual sugar would suggest. —P.G. Citrus, grapefruit and pear are all in the mix, accented abv: 13.2% Price: $18 with notes of sweet grain from aging in new oak. —P.G. Seven Hills 2011 Talcott Vineyard Viog- abv: 12.2% Price: $19 88 nier (Columbia Valley). Done in a meaty, almost thickly fruity style, this vineyard-designated OTHER WHITE WINES Jones of Washington 2011 Sauvignon Viognier fills the palate with citrus and stone flavors. Two Vintners 2011 Grenache Blanc (Ya- 90 Blanc (Columbia Valley). For full review see There’s a pretty floral note to both the nose and the fin- 91 kima Valley). Sourced from the Boushey page 13. Best Buy. ish. —P.G. Vineyard, this includes 10% Roussanne. One-third was abv: 13.3% Price: $15 abv: NA Price: $20 barrel-fermented, resulting in an especially rich mouth- feel, with a lush core of melon, tangerine, pineapple, Alexandria Nicole 2010 Reserve Destiny Sparkman 2010 Pearl Sauvignon Blanc papaya and citrus flavors. It has excellent length and Ridge Vineyards Estate Grown Viognier 89 (Columbia Valley). A well-made wine, with 86 power. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. (Horse Heaven Hills). complex aromas of orange blossom, pea vine and lem- Light for a reserve, this has a abv: 14.3% Price: $25 on oil. Flavors are equally varied, buoyed by racy acid- yeasty, slightly beer-like scent. The aromas run from cel- ity, showing good concentration through the finish. The ery and jicama to tart green apple, with a hint of toasted Dowsett Family 2011 Celilo Vineyard rapes were sourced from the Evergreen and Klipsun bread—perhaps from the fermentation that took place 90 Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge). Vineyards. —P.G. in neutral barrels. —P.G. The cool 2011 vintage hit the Columbia Gorge es- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.8% Price: $28 pecially hard, but winemaker Chris Dowsett has crafted an expressive, wonderfully fragrant old-vine Morrison Lane 2010 Viognier (Walla Wal- Mercer 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Gewürztraminer. This is tart and saline, with notes of la Valley). Tank fermented, then aged in neu- 88 Valley). Lightly grassy and pleasantly fruity, 85 lemon, lime and grapefruit rind and flesh that combine tral French oak, this has a tawny cast to it and a soft, this mingles kiwi, melon and apple with notes of fresh to form a delicate, lingering, snappy and bracing style. slightly woody flavor. The lemony flavor finishes with a herb. The flavors are fresh and balanced, with just a Cellar Selection. —P.G. small percentage of the fruit fermented and (briefly) mildly bitter fruit-skin note. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $22 aged in new American oak. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $24 abv: 13.4% Price: $15 Washington Hills 2011 Late Harvest 89 Moscato (Washington). With the interest in Washington Hills 2011 Sauvignon Blanc WHITE BLENDS Moscato at all-time highs, this lovely wine should find 88 (Washington). Clean and herbaceous, this Alexandria Nicole 2011 Shepherds Mark a lot of admirers. A delicate orange-blossom scent rolls high-acid Sauvignon Blanc recalls an excellent Quincy 91 Estate Grown Destiny Ridge Vineyards into flavors of pink grapefruit, lemon rind and rose pet- for style and value. Sharp and grassy, clean and refresh- White (Horse Heaven Hills). For full review see al. The acids keep the sugars in proportion and the fin- ing, it’s a perfect shellfish wine. Best Buy. —P.G. page 8. Editors’ Choice. ish refreshing. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 10% Price: $10

Kontos Cellars 2011 Gossamer (Colum- 91 bia Valley). This is an unusual blend of Viogni- er, Chardonnay, Roussanne and Orange Muscat—quite different from previous vintages. Crisp and penetrating,

WineMag.com | 61 RED BLENDS J. Bookwalter 2009 Protagonist Red (Co- the heart of the wine are threads of herb, olive, pea vine 94 lumbia Valley). This is an outstanding Protag- and other green notes, but there are also black cherry Figgins 2009 Estate Red Wine (Walla onist, 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Ciel du Che- and cassis flavors. It’s balanced and proportionate, clos- 98 Walla Valley). For full review see page 3. Edi- val Syrah. As with other J. Bookwalter reds, it is loaded er to a true Bordeaux-style blend than most Washington tors’ Choice. with an appealing toast scent, and is amply endowed efforts. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $85 with black cherry and cassis fruit. This is a luscious wine abv: 14.1% Price: $45 with terrific concentration and length, finishing with J. Bookwalter 2009 Conner Lee Vineyard perfectly ripe tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Pamplin 2009 JRG Red (Columbia Val- 96 Conflict Red (Columbia Valley). The Con- abv: 15.2% Price: $55 91 ley). Thoughtfully made and sourced from two flict red is a mash-up of 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% excellent vineyards—Walla Walla’s Seven Hills and Ca- Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and it’s a crowd-pleaser Leonetti Cellar 2009 Reserve (Walla Wal- noe Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills American Viticul- from the instant the cork is pulled. Dense scents of 94 la Valley). Leonetti’s 2009 Reserve—92% tural Area—this is 75% Merlot, with smaller portions cherry, roasty-toasty barrel and cracker are inviting. Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot—is a simpler blend of Petit Verdot and Malbec. Black cherry, black olive, The grapes were sourced entirely from the Conner than in past vintages, and it seems to mark a return to clean earth and fine tannins mark its passage across the Lee Vineyard. This effort showcases the winery’s signa- the style of wine that built the winery’s reputation ini- palate. This has excellent balance and medium-term ture style, with notes of black fruits, exotic spices, cof- tially. Powerfully, lavishly oaky, with a ripe, chewy black- ageability. —P.G. fee grounds and dark chocolate. Drink now or cellar for fruit flavor, it is bursting with notes of black cherry, abv: 14.9% Price: $30 6–8 years. —P.G. cassis, dark chocolate and a hint of butter. Though not abv: 15.6% Price: $55 quite as graceful or detailed as the regular Cabernet, Rulo 2009 Syrca Red Cabernet Sauvi- this is the more potently expressive of the two flagship 91 gnon-Syrah (Columbia Valley). A reversal Seven Hills 2009 Pentad Red Wine (Wal- Leonetti reds. —P.G. from past Syrcas, this flips the blend to 70% Cabernet 96 la Walla Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.7% Price: $140 Sauvignon and 30% Syrah. It remains a sensational val- Cellar Selection. ue, introduced with a beguiling nose of toast, smoke abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Tamarack Cellars 2008 Sagemoor Vine- and coffee grounds. The tart, tangy red-fruit flavor has 94 yards Reserve Red (Columbia Valley). length and style; the wine seems sculpted. Editors’ Tamarack Cellars 2008 DuBrul Vineyard Half Cabernet Sauvignon from the Bacchus Vineyard, Choice. —P.G. 96 Reserve Red (Rattlesnake Hills). DuBrul and one-quarter each Merlot and Cabernet Franc from abv: 14.5% Price: $16 is perhaps the single most sought-after vineyard in the the Weinbau Vineyard, this polished, dense blend re- entire Yakima Valley, and at this price this Tamarack veals the complexity of old vines. A mix of perfectly rip- Tamarack Cellars 2008 Ciel du Che- selection is an absolute steal. Pomegranate, blueberry, ened strawberry and raspberry is accented with a barrel 91 val Vineyard Reserve Red (Red Moun- black cherry and cassis notes lead into a full-flavored flavor of coconut cream pie. —P.G. tain). This Red Mountain selection, among a quartet of wine that remains concise and perfectly defined. The abv: 14.6% Price: $50 superb vineyard reserves from Tamarack, is the most blend is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and shuttered. This has excellent structure, with hints of 7% Cabernet Franc. This is concentrated, with earthy Boudreaux Cellars 2008 JBO’s Frangio- well-rounded red fruit, baking spice and a gentle dust- depths suggesting Dr. Pepper, espresso and dark choco- 93 vese (Washington). This is a unique and ing of cocoa, which all point to its long-term aging po- late. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. quirky blend, but so seductive. Half Sangiovese and half tential. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 Cabernet Franc, it strikes an Italian pose, with scents abv: 14.4% Price: $50 and flavors of tobacco and sour cherry backed with lip- Betz Family 2009 Clos de Betz Red Wine smacking acidity. The Cabernet Franc lends prune, Dunham Cellars 2010 Three Legged Red 95 (Columbia Valley). For full review see page plum and coffee notes. —P.G. 90 (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.3% Price: $60 10. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.6% Price: $52 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 J. Bookwalter 2009 Chapter 4 Red (Co- Quilceda Creek 2009 Palengat Red 93 lumbia Valley). The winery’s seldom-made re- Matthews Estate 2009 Claret (Columbia 95 (Horse Heaven Hills). Quilceda’s single- serve, this is a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% 90 Valley). This blend from Matthews is 47% vineyard Bordeaux-style blend is 86% Cabernet Sauvi- Cabernet Franc and 10% Syrah. Among a stellar group Merlot and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, with smaller gnon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 6% Merlot. This has fine of 2009 J. Bookwalter reds, this is the toughest to de- amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. grained tannins—not soft, but polished, ripe, and rich. cipher—at least at first. It shows good balance, a for- It’s thoroughly New World in style: thick, smoky, tannic Tasted prior to its official release, the wine was still pull- ward, fruity start, and then a descent into very dark, very and concentrated, with notes of black cherry and cassis ing together all of the complex barrel-influenced flavors; toasty barrel flavors. Cellar Selection. —P.G. at the core. —P.G. it tasted delicious, with notes of bourbon-soaked cher- abv: 14.9% Price: $80 abv: 15% Price: $38 ries, along with veins of espresso, cacao, dusty baking spice, and a liquorous finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Covington Cellars 2008 Artisan Series O•S Winery 2008 BSH Red Cabernet abv: 15.2% Price: $90 91 Ma Belle Red (Yakima Valley). A Southern 90 Sauvignon-Merlot (Columbia Valley). A Rhône-style blend of 62% Grenache, 31% Cinsault and blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest Merlot, Tamarack Cellars 2008 Seven Hills Vine- 7% Syrah, this is loaded with flavors of wild herb and there is a sweet, cinnamon note that punches through, 95 yard Reserve Red (Walla Walla Valley). bright berry. From the Cinsault comes a hint of mush- giving accents of spice and candy to the forward This is a generous mouthful of Cabernet, with just small room, while the Syrah lends muscle and peppery fruit. red-fruit flavor. This is easy drinking and very tasty— amounts of Merlot and Carmenère in the blend. Chewy, This has excellent concentration, complex flavors and drink up. —P.G. dusty, grainy, tannic and thoroughly delicious, it has appealing length. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 the deeply flavored berry and cassis fruit to more than abv: NA Price: $45 match the French oak. The fruit is wreathed in layers Rulo NV WCF Red Cabernet Sauvignon- of smoke, charcoal and ash—all in proportion. Editors’ O•S Winery 2008 Sheridan Vineyard 90 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Much the same Choice. —P.G. 91 Ulysses Red (Yakima Valley). The Ulysses blend as Rulo’s Syrca (64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% abv: 14.5% Price: $50 red has been the main calling card for this winery, and it Syrah), this is softer and a bit further along the path to is a distinctive wine that expresses the complexity—with maturity, as it is nonvintage. The berry fruit is annotated no herbs barred—of Yakima Valley grapes. Woven into

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2011 with sleek streaks of graphite, toast and tobacco. It’s just Waterbrook 2009 Mélange Noir (Colum- a 50-50 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend, and it was a bit chalky, so pair it with a fatty, juicy steak. —P.G. 88 bia Valley). This fruity red blend offers a nice aged in 66% new French oak. Blackberry and black abv: 14.5% Price: $25 mix of plum, black cherry, and cocoa powder scents and cherry flavors lend an impression of Dr. Pepper, and the flavors. It develops into a darker wine, with cassis and wine turns a bit astringent in the finish. Quite tart and Seven Hills 2009 Planing Mill Red (Co- cacao running through the finish. —P.G. refreshing, it’s a fine bottle to enjoy with a burger or 90 lumbia Valley). A super value, the 2009 Plan- abv: 13.6% Price: $15 barbecue. —P.G. ing Mill Red is an eight-grape blend that nonetheless abv: 15% Price: $25 shows lovely integration of fruit, subtle aromatics, and a Gård Vintners 2009 Lawrence Vineyards seamless progression of well-balanced flavors. Notes of 87 Don Isidro Red Cabernet Sauvignon-Syr- Cedar River Cellars 2010 Confluence cherry, chocolate and buttered toast come into play, all ah (Columbia Valley). A popular 70% Cabernet Sau- 83 Red Blend (Columbia Valley). A 50- done in an elegant and most appealing fashion. Editors’ vignon and 30% Syrah blend, this sports a distinctive 50 Cabernet/Syrah blend, this is heavily tannic. The Choice. —P.G. floral note, like a whiff of baby powder. Light cherry cherry-cola flavor is smothered in char, smoke and bit- abv: 14.1% Price: $18 fruit anchors the core, remaining balanced throughout ter espresso. This needs a big thick steak to cut through the medium finish. —P.G. the tannins. —P.G. Tulpen Cellars 2008 Coalescence Red abv: 14.8% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 90 (Columbia Valley). Much lighter in 2008 than in 2007, this Bordeaux-style blend is based on Magnificent Wine Company 2010 House Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, 87 Wine Red (Columbia Valley). There will be CABERNET FRANC Petit Verdot and Malbec. A pleasing entry, with peppery far less House Red in the freeze-shortened 2010 vin- O•S Winery 2010 Champoux Vineyard highlights, moves to a midpalate with flavors of straw- tage. As always, a forward, compelling wine, with a swirl Cabernet Franc (Horse Heaven Hills). berry and cherry and hints of cola, earth and bark. The of black fruit, smoke, earth and cola scents. The tannins 91 This is an especially fine version of this single-vineyard finish fades gently; drink soon. —P.G. are graceful and proportionate; the finish does a gentle Cabernet Franc; sadly, it may be awhile before we see abv: 14.2% Price: $26 fade. Best Buy. —P.G. it again as the vineyard suffered severe damage in 2011. abv: 13.2% Price: $12 Loaded with pure, rich cherry fruit, it adds layers of William Church 2009 2 Spires Red (Co- graphite, cedar and coffee over a mineral base. Editors’ lumbia Valley). Syrah makes up 70% of this Milbrandt Vineyards 2009 Brothers’ 90 Choice. —P.G. blend—the rest is Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a fine, fo- Blend Red (Columbia Valley). Malbec, 87 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 cused effort that’s smooth and immediately drinkable, Cabernet, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah, Grenache and with flavors of dried herb, dark chocolate and pretty Mourvèdre are all here. Fruity and forward, this shows Tamarack Cellars 2010 Cabernet Franc blueberry pastry. The soft, smooth tannins encourage the same strong streaks of vanilla, tobacco and choco- (Wahluke Slope). Tamarack does a fine job near term consumption. —P.G. late flavors as the rest of the Milbrandt reds. —P.G. 90 with its 100% varietal Cabernet Franc. It manages to abv: 14.9% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 be both muscular and elegant, with stylish, juicy boy- senberry fruit set against a backdrop of earthy, granular, O•S Winery 2008 Red (Columbia Valley). Canoe Ridge 2009 Cherry Street Red drying tannins, which provide excellent grip and length. Always a fine value, a price drop has made this a (Columbia Valley). This blend of Cabernet 89 86 —P.G. must-buy red for everyday enjoyment. Black fruits rev- Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel reflects the change in abv: 14.2% Price: $28 el in a bed of mocha, and the acids bring a touch of ownership (from Diageo to Precept), rather than a spe- citrus. —P.G. cific new direction for the winery. A modest, all-purpose Covington Cellars 2009 Cabernet Franc abv: 14.1% Price: $15 red, made from purchased grapes, it tastes of berries, (Columbia Valley). This pure Cabernet with soft, muted tannins. —P.G. 88 Franc is bursting with black cherry and chocolate good- William Church 2009 Sur La Mer Red abv: 14.3% Price: $17 ness. There are streaks of smoke and light charcoal, giv- (Columbia Valley). This Merlot-dominated, 89 ing this medium-bodied wine more heft and a strong five-grape Bordeaux-style blend is anchored by pretty Covington Cellars 2008 Rough House finish. —P.G. raspberry and cherry fruit. Forward and fruity, it thins Red (Columbia Valley). This is a blend 86 abv: 14.3% Price: $35 out through the midpalate, adding layers of earth and of 70% Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet herb, before finishing with soft tannins and a chorus of Franc and Mourvèdre. It spent almost two years in 60% Hard Row To Hoe 2009 Burning Desire baking spices. —P.G. new oak, and the oak dominates both the nose and the Cabernet Franc (Lake Chelan). A firm and abv: 14.8% Price: $32 palate. Sharp edged and showing more than a hint of 87 focused Cabernet Franc, with just 5% Merlot in the stem and herb, it finishes with a wash of vanilla-soaked blend, this spent 18 months in 50% new American oak. Alexandria Nicole 2009 Quarry Butte cherry fruit. —P.G. It’s a straight-ahead style, with a red berry flavor and Destiny Ridge Vineyards Estate Grown abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 polished, proportionate tannins. —P.G. Red Wine (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of approx- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 imately 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot, Malbec, eleven 2009 La Ronde (Washington). The Syrah and Petit Verdot making up the remainder, this 86 flavors of purple and black fruit are tart and barbecue-ready wine is scented with dried herb and for- juicy, though the tannins turn slightly bitter, with a hint CABERNET SAUVIGNON est floor components. Brambly berry fruit and tart acids of greenness on the finish. —P.G. work to balance out the earthy tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $33 Quilceda Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.6% Price: $25 98 gnon (Columbia Valley). For full review see Grandmaster 2010 Red Meritage (Wash- page 3. Cellar Selection. Matthews Estate 2009 Blackboard Red 86 ington). The Meritage term would indicate abv: 15.2% Price: $135 88 (Columbia Valley). Mostly Cabernet Sau- that this is a mix of Bordeaux grapes. It’s juicy and for- vignon and Merlot, with a bit of Cabernet Franc and ward, with red wine fruit flavors, as well as significant Leonetti Cellar 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Malbec, this is a juicy, tart effort. Sappy berries, a bit of streaks of coffee and vanilla from the oak treatment. 97 gnon (Walla Walla Valley). For full review pineapple and a finishing hint of caramel all come to- —P.G. see page 3. Cellar Selection. gether in this lively, fresh blend. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $14 abv: 14.6% Price: $88 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Two Vintners 2009 Lola Red Cabernet 86 Sauvignon-Syrah (Red Mountain). Lola is

WineMag.com | 63 Betz Family 2009 Père de Famille Caber- ley). Again in 2009, winemaker Casey McClellan has berry preserves, with polished tannins and highlights of 96 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For full crafted a beautifully pure Cabernet Sauvignon from fresh-cut tobacco. —P.G. review see page 3. Cellar Selection. this vineyard. Soft and supple, focused and detailed, abv: NA Price: $25 abv: 14.6% Price: $65 it’s a riot of pastry-like berries and cherries, with a con- centrated midpalate bursting with full-bodied flavor. It Tempus Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Quilceda Creek 2009 Galitzine Vineyard moves into a lengthy finish, with toast, tobacco, coconut 90 gnon (Columbia Valley). The old vine fruit 96 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). and caramel highlights. Cellar Selection lends delicate details of herb, rock and pepper. The Quilceda Creek’s Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.9% Price: $38 flavors are nicely mingled and evocative, and the ad- opens with a dense, exotic and luxurious nose: a mix dition of 10% Merlot from Seven Hills adds further of roasted coffee, dark fruit and Asian spice. At first it’s Canoe Ridge 2009 Vineyard Select Cab- complexity. The wine spent 22 months in 60% new quite dense and unyielding, but it opens slowly over a 91 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For French oak, but the barrel flavors are gentle and well- period of days—not hours—remaining dense and com- full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. integrated. —P.G. pact, with a remarkable array of dark fruits and bar- abv: 13.9% Price: $22 abv: 14.4% Price: $32 rel flavors. As with its companion reds from Quilceda Creek, this is a wine to cellar for decades. Cellar Se- J. Bookwalter 2009 Foreshadow Cab- O•S Winery 2009 Elephant Mountain lection. —P.G. 91 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). 89 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Wash- abv: 15.2% Price: $110 This is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, with an addition of ington). This is a very good example of this Yakima Syrah. Fully ripe, bold and assertive, this high-oc- Valley vineyard’s style of Cabernet. It’s solid—almost Boudreaux Cellars 2007 Champoux & tane wine holds its alcohol well. Muscular and power- chunky—peppery and tannic, with a cassis note and a 95 Loess Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sau- ful, it has black cherry and cassis flavors that saturated hint of chalk. —P.G. vignon (Washington). Much in the style of Leonetti with baking spice, chocolate, cedar and coffee notes. abv: 14.4% Price: $40 Cabernet, with the richness of Napa Valley fruit, this This is well supported by acids and is matched to deeply satisfying, superripe wine is 100% varietal. perfectly ripe tannins. —P.G. Seven Hills 2009 Klipsun Vineyard Cab- Notes of cassis, fig and a hint of prune are swathed in abv: 15.2% Price: $45 89 ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). In 2009, deeper flavors of espresso and dark chocolate. Editors’ this vineyard’s yields were reduced, and production of Choice. —P.G. Kontos Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- this wine was cut to just 75 cases. It is compact and as- abv: 13.9% Price: $100 91 gnon (Walla Walla Valley). The assertive tringent to such a degree that even 24 hours of breath- barrel flavors are still being integrated into the wine, but ing time does little to make it budge. Flavors of cassis, Seven Hills 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard there is so much else to taste that it seems certain to knit white pepper and a hint of herb poke out from a bed 95 Red Wine (Red Mountain). For full review itself together in the near term. Pretty blueberry and of tannins. It’s just too soon to tell where this is going. see page 4. Cellar Selection. ripe cherry flavors are set in firm, toasty tannins.Cellar —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $45 abv: NA Price: $32 Boudreaux Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sau- Tulpen Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 94 vignon (Washington). This is a Bordeaux- William Church 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- 89 (Columbia Valley). This is a marked depar- style blend, principally Cabernet Sauvignon, with small 91 gnon (Columbia Valley). The Cabernet ture from previous vintages. Tight and earthy, with the amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. comes from the Dineen Vineyard, and the 10% addition accent on peppery, herbal flavors rather than sweet It’s stylish and firm, based upon a solid cassis note. The of Petit Verdot is from Northridge. Scents of leaf and fruit, it’s the most Bordeaux-like wine in the 2008 port- extended barrel aging—32 months in French oak— tobacco enhance the smooth cherry fruit. It’s a supple, folio from Tulpen. —P.G. brings on seductive flavors of brown sugar, molasses medium-bodied wine with a silky finish. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 and maple syrup, with touches of espresso and dark abv: 14.3% Price: $32 chocolate. The structure remains tight and polished, Gård Vintners 2009 Lawrence Vineyards with excellent balance. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Alexandria Nicole 2009 Alderdale Des- 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). abv: 13.8% Price: $55 90 tiny Ridge Vineyards Estate Grown Cab- Done in a solid, straight-ahead style, this estate-grown ernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). For full Cabernet pushes its ripe cherry flavor front and center. Kontos Cellars 2008 Caimbry Cabernet review see page 9. There is a pleasing sweet-sour snap to the mouthfeel. 94 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced abv: 14.7% Price: $32 —P.G. entirely from Pepper Bridge Vineyard, this chewy, sub- abv: 15.5% Price: $35 stantial Cabernet has deep and delicious cassis and ber- Obelisco Estate 2009 Estate Grown Cab- ry flavors that are accented with sweet, toasty oak. It 90 ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). For full Covington Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- spent three years in tight-grain French barrels, bear- review see page 11. Cellar Selection. 87 gnon (Columbia Valley). Small percentages ing the espresso-laden depths to show for it. This is abv: 13.7% Price: $40 of four other Bordeaux grapes are added to this Cab- thoroughly delicious and ageworthy. Cellar Selection. ernet Sauvignon-dominant blend. This is a fruity, for- —P.G. Obelisco Estate 2009 Electrum Cabernet ward wine, like a bowl of berries with accents of baking abv: 14.3% Price: $40 90 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Mostly Cab- spice, toast and caramel. Tasty on first sip, but the finish ernet, with a bit of Merlot and Malbec in the blend, is quick to fade. —P.G. Rulo 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- the new Electrum shows flavors of mixed berry, plum abv: 14.3% Price: $35 94 bia Valley). Dark and dense, this deep and and a hint of prune. The acids are tart, giving the wine compact Cabernet Sauvignon is saturated with cassis good presence, and the balance and length are spot on. Jones of Washington 2009 Estate Vine- flavor. Accents of coffee grounds and dark chocolate —P.G. 87 yards Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke add depth and power, and a hint of earthiness in the abv: 14.1% Price: $65 Slope). Produced from estate-grown fruit, this also in- finish underscores its complexity and ageability.Cellar cludes 10% Petit Verdot. A tart raspberry flavor fades Selection. —P.G. Seven Hills 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon into a light finish, with streaks of tobacco and vanilla abv: 14.5% Price: $40 90 (Columbia Valley). Comprised of five Bor- that are bolstered with generous natural acidity. —P.G. deaux grapes, this is buttery and round, with a fair abv: 14.6% Price: $15 Seven Hills 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard streak of vanilla. It sports plump black-cherry and rasp- 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Val- Jones of Washington 2009 Jack’s Re- 87 serve Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvi-

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 gnon (Wahluke Slope). The reserve Cab from Jones Milbrandt Vineyards 2009 The Estates Alexandria Nicole 2009 Gravity Destiny spent 18 months in new French and American oak, and 86 Malbec (Wahluke Slope). There is a distinct 88 Ridge Vineyards Estate Grown Merlot the resulting wine is big, liquorous, and astringent. Lay- scent and flavor of prune and raisin here that’s quite (Horse Heaven Hills). There are drying tannins and ers of smoke, espresso, vanilla bean and tobacco wrap ripe, dark and exotic. The fruit flavors are front-loaded an earthy underpinning to this bottling of the Gravity around a core of cassis. This is dark, pure and potent. and thin out quickly, leaving an astringent finish with Merlot. The cherry and cassis flavors have good grip, —P.G. streaks of green tannins. —P.G. leading into a coffee-coated finish. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $24

Milbrandt Vineyards 2009 The Estates Obelisco Estate 2009 Reserve Merlot 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope). MERLOT 88 (Red Mountain). This is 75% Merlot, with Black cherry fruit with a bit of black olive and a hint Leonetti Cellar 2010 Merlot (Walla Walla Cabernet, Malbec and Syrah comprising the other 25%. of smoke lead quickly into an oaky finish with plenty of Despite all of the components, it tastes like there is a bit Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Se- roasted coffee and tobacco flavors. A lot of barrel, but 95 of a hole. The fruit is soft and plummy, and the overall lection. the fruit is simple, not distinctively varietal. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $70 balance is excellent. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $45 Seven Hills 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard Boomtown 2009 Merlot (Washington). Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Estate grown 93 The nose is lifted and the flavors a bit aus- MALBEC and skillfully made, blended with 9% Cabernet Franc, 87 tere, but the mix of red fruits and soft tannins is nicely Kontos Cellars 2009 LVLL Stone Tree this captivates with its sophistication and elegance. balanced. There are hints of chocolate throughout the Vineyard Malbec (Wahluke Slope). Sadly, The Cabernet Franc brings some floral highlights to 93 finish. —P.G. only one barrel was made of this exceptional wine, from the nose, while the sturdy Merlot—dressed in accents abv: 14.4% Price: $15 what may be the best site for Malbec in the entire state. of incense and sandalwood, cocoa and cinnamon— powers its way through a marvelously long finish. Edi- It’s a mouth-teasing mix of plum, cherry, cola, chocolate Milbrandt Vineyards 2009 Traditions and clean loam, with silky tannins and a hint of Bourbon tors’ Choice. —P.G. Merlot (Columbia Valley). Simple, forward on the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $30 87 flavors of vanilla syrup and fresh-cut tobacco seem to abv: 14% Price: $40 J. Bookwalter 2009 Foreshadow Merlot define the Milbrandt lineup. A tart berry flavor and chocolaty tannins make for a supple, flavorful Merlot. Seven Hills 2009 Malbec (Walla Walla (Columbia Valley). This is 96% Merlot, with 92 —P.G. Valley). Pure, almost crystalline in its expres- just a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. Firm and focused, 92 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 sion of fruit, this 100% Malbec captures the essence it sports a toasty nose, with rich blackberry and cherry fruit. The oak treatment brings in generous flavors of of mountain berries. Juicy and perfectly balanced, it Two Vintners 2009 Pepper Bridge Vine- suggests a range of notes from tangerine to blueber- coffee and mocha. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. yard Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Forward ry to wild raspberry, with lightly peppery, fine-grained abv: 15.2% Price: $45 87 and—at least for the moment—quite oaky, this is tasty, tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. although it does not expand into more complicated fla- abv: 13.8% Price: $25 Tulpen Cellars 2008 Merlot (Columbia vors. The 70% new French oak barrels seem to over-ride Valley). As with the 2008 Tulpen Cabernet, 92 the fruit, giving it a somewhat monolithic impression. Lookout Point 2009 Malbec (Rattlesnake the Lewis (Yakima Valley) and Wallula (Horse Heav- Drink up while it retains its youthful freshness. —P.G. Hills). An excellent follow up to the winery’s en Hills) Vineyards provided the fruit. A muscle Mer- 90 abv: 14.5% Price: $29 2008 Malbec, this well-made wine includes 5% each lot, this is smooth and round, bearing flavors of mixed berry and ripe cherry, with added notes of iron and Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot—all from the Two Cedar River Cellars 2010 Watershed Coyote Vineyard. Cherries and plums are lightly dusted clean earth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Merlot (Columbia Valley). The herbal, thin with an accent of cocoa from having spent 21 months in abv: 14.6% Price: $28 82 fruit is covered with a strong streak of vanilla. It finishes 30% new oak. The finish is clean as a whistle. Editors’ Boudreaux Cellars 2007 Merlot (Washing- with bitter tannins. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.2% Price: $18 91 ton). This has a lovely entry that explodes with scents of toasted almond and espresso. The black cher- Dusted Valley 2009 Malbec (Wahluke ry and sour plum flavors command your attention, with SYRAH 87 Slope). The fruit flavors here are very good but texture and balance throughout. Drink soon. —P.G. simple: a wash of blackberry slathered in coffee, vanilla abv: 13.4% Price: $45 Rasa Vineyards 2009 Doctrina Perpetua and sweet spice. —P.G. 94 Syrah (Columbia Valley). There is nothing abv: 14.7% Price: $42 Canoe Ridge 2009 Vineyard Select Mer- shy about this wine, but the ripeness and high alco- 90 lot (Columbia Valley). This 100% estate- hol are beautifully handled. It remains precise and fo- eleven 2009 Malbec (Horse Heaven grown Merlot opens with meaty aromas of plum and cused, with deep black-cherry, cola and coffee flavors. 87 Hills). Scents of clover and wild flower lead black cherry. There is a pleasant, roasted character The tannins are fine grained, and the acids are sufficient into rather delicate flavors of rose petal and wild moun- to the flavors, with nutmeg and cinnamon spice. Still enough to give it a frame and the prospect of aging for tain berry. The tannins are astringent, but proportion- youthful and tight, this breathes open into a supple wine up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. ate. —P.G. with a finishing streak of pencil lead. —P.G. abv: 15.8% Price: $60 abv: 14.2% Price: $32 abv: 13.7% Price: $22 Tamarack Cellars 2009 Ciel du Cheval Lake Chelan 2009 Malbec (Columbia Kontos Cellars 2009 Merlot (Walla Walla 94 Vineyard Syrah (Red Mountain). Here’s a 87 Valley). Dark and pruny, with a superripe, 90 Valley). Unfiltered and broad shouldered, this great Syrah from a vineyard not specifically known for smoky finish, this seems to be at or quite near its peak. is a fine expression of pure Merlot from the Walla Walla this grape. It immediately impacts the palate with con- It’s 100% Malbec, and it spent almost two full years in Valley. Though plenty ripe, the sweet fruit flavors have centrated flavors of raspberry and cassis swathed in cof- French oak. —P.G. a pillowy elegance—the wine feels light but the flavors fee liqueur, dark chocolate and a hint of red licorice. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 run deep. —P.G. This has great concentration and length; drink it over abv: 14.3% Price: $32 the next 6–8 years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

WineMag.com | 65 Rasa Vineyards 2009 Occam’s Razor and citrusy acids, with a hint of stone. The tang of Mey- in both color and fruit flavor. It packs in ample barrel 93 Block Ten Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). er lemon resonates long after the first swallow. —P.G. flavors of licorice and coffee due to the aging regimen Sourced from the Seven Hills vineyard, this deep abv: 14.3% Price: $29 of 75% new French oak and 25% neutral. The tannins and dark Syrah offers rich black-cherry and cassis fla- are hard, chewy, but plenty ripe. This is a bruiser. —P.G. vors. The palate is dense and complex, with beautifully Dusted Valley 2009 Tall Tales Syrah abv: 14.6% Price: $42 integrated charcoal, gravel, earth and espresso compo- 89 (Walla Walla Valley). Some tasters will really nents. —P.G. love this Walla Walla Valley Syrah for its massive flavors Dusted Valley 2009 Petite Sirah (Colum- abv: 15.2% Price: $60 of liquorous coffee and vanilla. A cookie dough baking 87 bia Valley). Heavy accents of vanilla and black spice flavor abounds, but at the moment, the fruit seems tea as well as sharp acids and drying tannins character- Rulo 2009 Silo Reserve Syrah (Wahluke hidden. Perhaps it just needs more bottle age to balance ize this Petite Sirah. If you like your reds big, brawny 93 Slope). Sourced from the Clifton Hill vine- itself out—time will tell. —P.G. and oak soaked, this is your poster child. —P.G. yard, this is a supple and fruity Syrah, with exceptional abv: 15.3% Price: $53 abv: 15.3% Price: $42 depth of flavor. A mix of tart cherry and plum fruit, it’s annotated with notes of graphite, ash, tobacco and dark Milbrandt Vineyards 2009 The Estates Covington Cellars 2009 Petite Sirah chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 89 Syrah (Wahluke Slope). As is often the case, 85 (Wahluke Slope). From the Stonetree Vine- abv: 14.7% Price: $30 the Estates Syrah bottling is the best wine of the flight in yard, this supersaturated wine is so black that it looks this vintage. It shows more varietal character and depth, impenetrable. The dark cassis fruit is drenched in as- Tulpen Cellars 2008 Syrah (Columbia with a substantial black-cherry flavor. It has lavish notes tringent, tongue-drying flavors of smoke, asphalt and 93 Valley). A Rhône-style blend that includes of maple syrup and baking spices, and the core fruit still tar. Though true to its variety, it’s a tough, chewy, some- Viognier, Grenache and Mourvèdre, this is a standout. shines through. —P.G. what chalky mouthful. —P.G. It’s tight, focused and pure, bearing penetrating flavors abv: 13.7% Price: $25 abv: 14.4% Price: $35 of cassis and boysenberry, with streaks of coffee liqueur and chocolate, and a deep, resonant finish marked with Two Vintners 2009 Syrah (Columbia Val- fine-grained tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 89 ley). Toasty scents from having aged in 40% SANGIOVESE abv: 14.8% Price: $24 new French oak waft over the tart raspberry fruit. This Leonetti Cellar 2009 Sangiovese (Walla is a very clean, focused, well-defined Syrah. It’s not too Walla Valley). A truly lovely and engaging Dusted Valley 2010 Stained Tooth Syr- big, but crisp and classy, with some aging potential over 94 nose bears scents of cherries, raspberries and exotic ah (Columbia Valley). This is notable for its the next 6–8 years. —P.G. 92 spices. It seems Italian in style, but with New World complexity and stylish blend of grape, berry and bram- abv: 14.7% Price: $21 ripeness and power. A fine example of a domestic Super ble flavors. The fruit is matched with polished tannins, Tuscan-style wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Edi- Bridgman 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). streaks of iron and earth, and a citrusy highlight. abv: 14.3% Price: $65 tors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 The solidly varietal nose is loaded with grapy abv: 14.6% Price: $32 purple fruits, with streaks of coffee and Dr. Pepper and Tulpen Cellars 2008 Sangiovese (Co- plenty of juicy berry flavor. This is forward, clean and lumbia Valley). Showing a lot of new, not- Matthews Estate 2009 Syrah (Columbia tangy, with additional details of vanilla and black tea. 90 yet-integrated new oak in the nose, this juicy Sangio- Valley). An interesting Syrah, this weaves to- —P.G. 91 vese is loaded with aging potential. The bright acidity gether light influences of vanilla, coffee and tea around abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and hints of herb buttress the generous flavors of straw- beautifully integrated fruit flavors of citrus, blueberry berry, raspberry, boysenberry and plum. It has excellent and black currant. The balance is just right, and the Lake Chelan 2009 Rivers Bend Vineyard concentration and length. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Syrah (Columbia Valley). Lots of licorice melding of these seemingly disparate flavors is handled 87 abv: 14.2% Price: $24 perfectly. —P.G. and vanilla, coffee and dark chocolate notes are found,

abv: 14.9% Price: $39 reflecting its 22 months spent in French oak. The fruit Covington Cellars 2007 ODE Sangiovese is definitely consigned to the back row, but there’s plen- (Walla Walla Valley). A pure Sangiovese Alexandria Nicole 2009 Block 17 Desti- ty of luscious, chocolatey flavor. —P.G. 85 from the Seven Hills Vineyard, this spent three years ny Ridge Vineyards Estate Grown Syrah abv: 13.8% Price: $35 90 in barrel. Though listed as “used French oak” the barrel (Horse Heaven Hills). For full review see page 9. flavors drown out the fruit. The tannins are astringent, abv: 14.8% Price: $42 Milbrandt Vineyards 2009 Traditions Syr- with strong streaks of tobacco and vanilla. —P.G. ah (Columbia Valley). This wine hews to the 87 abv: 14.8% Price: $60 Dusted Valley 2009 Rachis Syrah (Co- Milbrandt style, emphasizing notes of vanilla and tobac- 90 lumbia Valley). Whole clusters of Syrah are co ahead of the simple black-fruit flavor. It has a hint of co-fermented with Viognier to create this tight, concise- smoky earthiness and a citrusy edge to the acids. —P.G. OTHER RED WINES ly crafted wine. This is a firm expression of field and abv: 13.7% Price: $15 grape, with bright berry fruit and chocolaty tannins. The Rasa Vineyards 2009 Living in the Lime- slightly chalky finish may smooth out with a bit more Obelisco Estate 2009 Les Gosses Vine- 93 light Petit Verdot (Columbia Valley). bottle age. —P.G. 86 yard Syrah (Red Mountain). A bit high- Smooth, svelte and utterly delicious, this glossy, seam- abv: 15.1% Price: $53 toned, with a raspberry scent and flavor, this youth- less Petit Verdot is packed with bright flavors of berry, ful Syrah remains stubbornly tight. It could certainly cherry and plum. The management of the fruit is per- Rulo 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Quite benefit from additional bottle age. Re-tasted after being fect, and the barrel aging adds proportionate streaks of 90 dry to the point of astringency, this stylish Syrah open overnight, with the same results. —P.G. espresso and mocha. The finish is long and creamy. Edi- brings flavors of toast, coffee grounds and tangy berries. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 tors’ Choice. —P.G. There is just a hint of finishing heat. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 PETITE SIRAH Rasa Vineyards 2010 Vox Populi Mourvè- Two Vintners 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard dre (Columbia Valley). Showing great con- Alexandria Nicole 2009 Mr. Big Desti- 92 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). centration and varietal character, this tart, brambly, 90 The winery’s ny Ridge Vineyards Estate Grown Petite single-vineyard Syrah spent 20 months in 50% new 88 pure Mourvèdre beautifully showcases both the grape Sirah (Horse Heaven Hills). Almost all Petite Sirah, French oak. It has an appealing mix of black cherry fruit with just 4% Syrah in the blend, this is purple and black

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 and the winemaker’s skills. Sour plum and spice lend ferent universe: tannic, sharp, earthy and a bit acetic. Paumanok 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (North themselves to a lingering, detailed finish. —P.G. —P.G. 89 Fork of Long Island). Pure refreshment from abv: 14.1% Price: $45 abv: 13.7% Price: $32 start to finish, this is gorgeously concentrated with sweet gooseberry and grapefruit flavor, yet it’s nervy with acid- Seven Hills 2009 Petite Verdot (Wal- ity and a tonic sea breeze quality. Dry in style, this has a 92 la Walla Valley). This is unusually smooth NEW YORK crisp cut-grass finish. —A.I. and silky for Petit Verdot, which is often used in small abv: 12% Price: $24 amounts for blending. This is 100% varietal, with the WHITE WINES floral aroma of the grape matched to deep flavors of cas- Paumanok 2010 Semi Dry Riesling (North sis and smoky espresso. The tannin management is spot Channing Daughters 2010 Sylvanus (The 89 Fork of Long Island). It’s rare to grow Ries- on. —P.G. 90 Hamptons, Long Island). A true field blend ling on Long Island, but this is chock full of ripe peaches abv: 14.3% Price: $32 of Muscat, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco, the Sylva- and apricots highlighted by a shower of Meyer lemon nus is a profoundly aromatic, yet remarkably composed acidity and fragrant white blossoms. Sprightly on the Flying Dreams 2009 Tempranillo (Colum- white wine. It’s exuberant on the nose with lush flow- palate, yet concentrated in flavor, it lingers long with a 91 bia Valley). This new winery knocks it out of ers, tropical fruit and a whiff of exotic spice. The palate hint of saline and crushed-stone minerality. —A.I. the park with a terrific Tempranillo that includes small- is dry, but lusciously concentrated with notes of orange abv: 10% Price: $22 er amounts of Cabernet and Merlot. The black cher- peel and waxy flower that finish with a touch of saline ry fruit is accented with rose water and cut tobacco, and oyster shell. —A.I. Shinn Estate 2011 First Fruit Sauvignon and the characteristic acidity of Tempranillo lends the abv: 12.5% Price: $24 89 Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Luxu- flavors a further boost. —P.G. rious on the nose and palate, this has loads of sweet, abv: 13.9% Price: $36 Shinn Estate 2010 Haven Sauvignon juicy peach, melon and white blossom. Dry in style, with 90 Blanc-Semillon (North Fork of Long Is- notes of waxy lemon peel and a brisk oyster-shell miner- Two Vintners 2009 Stone Tree Vineyard land). Whispers of smoke and fresh herb are a coun- ality, this builds in elegance and complexity on the pal- 90 Zinfandel (Walla Walla Valley). This potent terpoint to the heady notes of white flower, sweet peach ate. Drink now. —A.I. wine brings the snap and vivid acidity of Washington- and melon on this gorgeous Bordeaux-style. It’s elegant- abv: 13.1% Price: $22 grown grapes to the spicy red- and black-berry flavors of ly composed, with a rich, creamy texture, a bristle of this fully ripened Zinfandel. It has cut and verve along acidity and a crushed-stone minerality. This is undeni- Bedell 2010 Corey Creek Vineyards with dense fruit, and a finish with smoke, espresso, anise ably a top pick from Long Island. —A.I. 88 Gewürztraminer (North Fork of Long Is- and mineral streaks. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $35 land). This is intoxicating on the nose, with scents of abv: 15.6% Price: $25 dried rose petals, lychees and white peppercorns. Dry Anthony Nappa 2010 Luminous Riesling in style, yet luscious on the palate, it has concentrated Wind Rose 2010 Dolcetto (Columbia Val- 89 (Finger Lakes). Winemaker Anthony Nappa flavors of rose petal jam and grapefruit that are balanced 90 ley). Definitely one of the better Dolcettos to sources grapes from Finger Lakes notable Sheldrake by moderate alcohol and a brisk, lemony acidity. This is emerge from Washington State, this includes both Bar- Point to make this beautifully textured off-dry Riesling. pleasantly bitter, with notes of jasmine tea and lemon bera and Tempranillo in the blend. Rich, ripe aromas It’s fragrant and fresh, with hints of waxy lemon skins, pith. Drink now. —A.I. and flavors mix pie cherry and fresh-cut tobacco, with tangerines and white blossoms, and the palate is rich, abv: 12% Price: $35 added layers of coffee, licorice and dark chocolate. A with lush stone-fruit and a deliciously astringent tea-leaf feast for the senses. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. finish. —A.I. Channing Daughters 2010 Pinot Grigio abv: 13.9% Price: $18 abv: 10.8% Price: $18 88 (Long Island). Lusciously textured and burst- ing with citrusy acidity, this combines savory tones of Tempus Cellars 2010 Grenache (Yakima Anthony Nappa 2010 Spezia Gewürztra- burnt sugar and apple cider with hints of fresh orange 88 Valley). This is the first varietally labeled Gr- 89 miner (North Fork of Long Island). Wisps peel and white flower. Crushed stone and a tea leaf as- enache from Tempus, and it’s lovely. Lush, with fresh of smoke and savory garam masala add dimension to tringency linger on the finish. —A.I. raspberry scents and flavors, this is a juicy, fruit-driven the plush pink-grapefruit and mango flavors on this un- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 wine with excellent grip and density. —P.G. usually spiced Gewürztraminer. The palate is dry and abv: 14.6% Price: $25 brisk with grapefruit acidity, yet it’s lusciously textured. Sherwood House Vineyards 2011 Or- Deep, gravelly minerality and an exotic tea note linger 86 egon Road Chardonnay (North Fork of Morrison Lane 2009 Cinsault (Walla Wal- on the finish. —A.I. Long Island). Orange rind and apple blossom add 86 la Valley). The low alcohol and light plum col- abv: 14.6% Price: $18 freshness to the savory apple and saline notes on this or suggest a wine of just moderate ripeness. You will elegant, minerally Chardonnay. Fermented in stainless find pale cranberry and crabapple flavors, with firm Bedell 2010 Taste White (North Fork of steel, it’s bright on the palate, with brisk acidity and a acidity and slightly earthy, herbal tannins. —P.G. 89 Long Island). Bedell’s aromatic white blend crisp, clean finish. —A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $27 bursts from the glass with exuberant scents of spring abv: 13% Price: $18 blossoms, freshly cut herbs and juicy pink-grapefruit Waterbrook 2011 Sangiovese (Columbia notes. The palate is ripe and fruity, but balanced by 86 Valley). A cranberry-apple flavor and a hint of an intensely chalky minerality and vivacious lime-juice SPARKLING WINES pepper define this light, dry rosé. Despite the low alco- acidity. Drink now. —A.I. Sparkling Pointe 2006 Blanc de Blancs hol it has little or no residual sugar. Chill it and quaff it abv: 13.3% Price: $25 (North Fork of Long Island). Delicate notes on a hot summer day. —P.G. 88 of white blossom, Meyer lemon and whiffs of sweet abv: 11.8% Price: $12 Paumanok 2011 Dry Chenin Blanc (North 89 Fork of Long Island). Classic notes of lanolin melon and biscuit lend an elegance to this brisk blanc Lake Chelan 2009 Pinot Noir (Columbia and waxy white flowers add dimension to this sprightly, de blancs. A shade juicier than the Brut label, it’s softly 83 Valley). Though Pinot Noir is not often consid- light-bodied white. The palate is dry, yet intensely fruity, pétillant, with a distinctly saline minerality on the fin- ered a blending grape, here it is mixed with 13% Cab- with a ripe tangerine flavor and a delicious wet-stone ish. —A.I. ernet Sauvignon, 4% Syrah and 4% Malbec. Still tech- minerality. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $42 nically a varietal Pinot Noir, but flavor wise it’s in a dif- abv: 11% Price: $25 Sparkling Pointe 2008 Blanc de Noirs 90 (North Fork of Long Island). Understated

WineMag.com | 67 scents of red plum and fresh pear mingle sweetly with fruits and red raspberries perfume this lovely dry rosé McCall 2007 Corchaug Estate Ben’s brioche and sugar cookie crumb on this gorgeous spar- made predominantly from Cabernet Franc and Caber- 89 Blend (North Fork of Long Island). After kling blend of Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. Dry, yet net Sauvignon. Sparkling acidity and an astringent tea- initial scents of smoke and dark toast subside, the Ben’s concentrated with crisp raspberry and rose petal flavors, leaf note add structure to the ripe, supple red-fruit and Blend reveals a prettier, daintier profile with vibrant it has striking acidity and a deeply penetrating mineral- berry flavors. —A.I. red-cherry and plum notes laced with hints of cedar and ity. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18 purple flower. The palate is dense with flavors of black- abv: 12.5% Price: $75 berry and bramble, balanced by brisk acidity and ripe, Channing Daughters 2011 Rosato Cab- mouth-coating tannins. Decant to drink now or save for Sparkling Pointe 2002 Brut Séduction 88 ernet Sauvignon Mudd Vineyard (North another five years. —A.I. 90 (North Fork of Long Island). Aged eight Fork of Long Island). Whispers of cherry blossoms abv: 13.1% Price: $48 years prior to disgorgement, then again in the bottle, and briar patch add flair to the sweet black-cherry and the Brut Séduction is a testament to how utterly de- blackberry flavors. Dry in style, with notes of fresh and Bedell 2009 Taste Red (North Fork of licious aged sparkling wine can be. Creamy in tex- dried herbs, it’s a perfect pairing for an elegant late- 88 Long Island). Juicy and ripe with scents of ture, with baby-soft bubbles and a rich, umami-laden summer barbecue. —A.I. sweet cherries, strawberries, vanilla cream and sweet warmth, it’s brightened by lemon-lime acidity and hints abv: 13% Price: $18 spices, this is unabashedly fruit forward yet structured. of orange blossom and citrus rind that linger. —A.I. Brisk acidity and ripe, chunky tannins add persistence abv: 12.5% Price: $60 Channing Daughters 2011 Rosato Refos- and depth to the lush fruit and floral flavors that linger 88 co Home Farm Vineyard (The Hamptons, on the palate. —A.I. Sparkling Pointe NV Cuvée Carnaval Long Island). There are notes of wild berry and rustic abv: 13% Price: $35 87 (North Fork of Long Island). A fragrant game that add a shadow of darkness to this refreshing, cherry-blossom scent accentuates the fresh red-rasp- cherry-laden rosé made from the Italian Refosco grape. Clovis Point 2007 Archeology (North berry and strawberry notes on the nose and palate of It’s bone dry and vivacious with acidity. —A.I. 87 Fork of Long Island). This has a pronounced this delicious, easy-drinking sparkling. Lush and ripe, abv: 13% Price: $20 nose, with aromas of black fruits swathed in savory dried the Cuvée Carnaval would be a lovely apéritif for late- herbs, mushrooms, game and smoke. The palate, by summer entertaining. —A.I. Ravines 2011 Pinot Dry Rosé (Finger contrast, is juicy with tart black-cherry and berry flavors abv: 12.5% Price: $27 88 Lakes). Understated on the nose, with hints of framed with ripe, but grippy, tannins. Pleasant now, but fresh strawberries and raspberries, this bone-dry rosé it could improve over the next 3–5 years. —A.I. Sparkling Pointe 2009 Topaz Impérial is quite penetrating on the palate, with a deep red-fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $60 87 (North Fork of Long Island). Ripe sour- flavor and a vein of crushed-stone minerality. —A.I. cherry and red-berry notes on the nose and palate min- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Peconic Bay Winery 2009 Lot #2 (North gle elegantly with savory touches of burnt sugar and 86 Fork of Long Island). This is made from biscotti. It’s dry in style, yet fruity and juicy, with brisk Glenora 2011 Rosé Pinot Noir (Finger equal proportions of ripe, fleshy Merlot and herba- acidity and a tongue-tickling pétillance. —A.I. 87 Lakes). The nose is subdued, with aromas of ceous, violet-inflected Cabernet Franc. The resulting abv: 12.5% Price: $37 crisp red plum, herb and bramble; but the palate is lush, blend is brisk in acidity and framed with hints of ce- with loads of ripe strawberry, peach and cherry flavors. dar, baking spice and vanilla. It’s robust with tannins but Sparkling Pointe 2007 Brut (North Fork This is dry in style but soft and juicy on the palate. —A.I. should round out with braised meat or other hearty fare. 87 of Long Island). Scents of freshly cut herbs abv: 12.5% Price: $14 —A.I. add a verdant quality to the yellow plum and white flow- abv: 13.1% Price: $20 er notes on this brisk, minerally blend comprised of the Sheldrake Point 2011 Dry Rosé (Finger traditional Champagne grape varieties. Dry and tonic in 87 Lakes). Green herb and cut-grass notes lend Suhru 2008 Red (North Fork of Long Is- style, it finishes clean and crisp, with just a hint of sugar- a fresh purity to this Cabernet Franc rosé. Sprightly in 86 land). Dark toast and graphite contrast cheer- cookie-crumb sweetness. —A.I. body, with fresh, citrusy acidity, it would pair beautifully ful red-plum and cherry aromas on the nose. The pal- abv: 12.5% Price: $29 with herbaceous Thai or Vietnamese cuisine. Best Buy. ate is ripe with blackberry and plum flavors, but a tad —A.I. lean in concentration. Hints of green herb, bramble and abv: 11.9% Price: $12 bright, zippy acidity lead to an elegant finish. —A.I. ROSÉS abv: 13% Price: $20 Anthony Nappa 2011 Anomaly Rosé RED BLENDS 90 (New York). Winemaker Anthony Nappa de- scribes Anomaly as a Pinot Noir vinified like a white Paumanok 2007 Assemblage (North Fork CABERNET FRANC wine. Bone dry, with understated black-cherry flavor, 90 of Long Island). Intensely ripe on the nose Paumanok 2010 Cabernet Franc (North it’s bracing with acidity and an intensely chalky, miner- and palate, with loads of sweet blackberries and cher- 91 Fork of Long Island). Paumanok’s portfolio ally palate. It’s refreshingly quaffable, yet lingers long, ries, this densely concentrated Merlot-based blend is an is full of winning wines, but the 2010 Cabernet Franc is sip after sip. —A.I. excellent offering from one of Long Island’s best pro- a particularly intoxicating mélange of ripe red-cherries abv: 12.8% Price: $19 ducers. Notes of sweet fruit and rose perfume soften and violets framed with sweet spices and herbs. Bright the bold tannins and deeper tones of coffee and dark acidity and minerally granite tones intensify the dried Channing Daughters 2011 Rosato Merlot toast. —A.I. cherry flavor and the lush, furry tannins. —A.I. 90 Mudd Vineyard (North Fork of Long Is- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.9% Price: $28 land). Each of Channing Daughter’s eight 2011 vin- tage rosato express a distinct personality, but the Mudd Macari 2008 Dos Aguas (North Fork of Keuka Lake Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Vineyard Merlot stands out with its seamless integration 89 Long Island). Hints of graphite, dark toast 90 Franc (Finger Lakes). On the nose, biscuit- of ripe, supple fruit with intense minerality and a dewy, and sweet spice add an interesting dimension to the ripe crumb notes add a touch of sweetness to the crisp black- floral flair that’s irresistible, sip after sip. This is bone dry black-cherry and plum notes on the nose and palate of cherry and cassis scents. On the palate, darker tones of and begs to be opened as soon as possible. —A.I. this Merlot-based blend. The palate is concentrated but dried herb and briar patch contrast the lush black-fruit abv: 13% Price: $18 crisp in acidity, with hints of fresh herbs and violets. Can and violet flavors that linger luxuriously on the finish. drink now, but its bold, tannic structure could evolve —A.I. Paumanok 2011 Dry Rosé (North Fork pleasantly with cellaring. —A.I. abv: 13.6% Price: $19 89 of Long Island). Sweet pea blossoms, stone abv: 13.5% Price: $27

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 Anthony Nappa 2010 Bordo Cabernet violet-inflected finish. Drinks well now, but it would of bay leaf lend a savory tone to the finish. Delicious. 88 Franc (North Fork of Long Island). There’s likely improve until 2015. —A.I. —A.I. a savage appeal (what the French call sauvage) to this abv: 13.4% Price: $24 abv: 12.8% Price: $27 unabashedly rustic Cabernet Franc that was ferment- ed entirely using wild yeasts. Initial notes of tomato Shinn Estate 2008 Estate Merlot (North Paumanok 2005 Tuthills Lane Vineyard leaf and green stem blow off to reveal aripe red fruit 88 Fork of Long Island). While plush with notes 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Fork of Long with a gorgeously floral character. Tart acidity and a of superripe red plums and vanilla on the nose and pal- Island). Crisp, elegant black-plum and cassis flavors concentrated red-cherry flavor are accented with graph- ate, Shinn’s Estate Merlot is remarkably complex with are framed with notes of fresh herb, dried lavender, ce- ite and black tea notes. —A.I. shades of dark cocoa powder, purple flowers and a spray dar and tobacco on this single-vineyard Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.8% Price: $20 of freshly-cut herbs. Sharp acidity and velvety tannins vignon. Generous proportions of new French-oak add add structure and style. —A.I. abundant vanilla and sweet-spice tones to the nose and Ravines 2010 Cabernet Franc (Finger abv: 13.5% Price: $26 palate. Pleasurable now, but grippy tannins and a firm 88 Lakes). A ripe bramble-wood note and dusty structure could evolve well over the next 3–5 years. minerality add shades of complexity to this ripe, rich- Wölffer 2008 Estate Merlot (The Hamp- —A.I. ly concentrated Cabernet Franc. Dry and full bodied, 88 tons, Long Island). Herbaceous and bram- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 with lush, ripe tannins, it finishes with a deliciously spicy bly on the nose and palate, Wölffer’s Estate Merlot is cherry-vanilla note. —A.I. concentrated in red plum and cherry fruit but lean in Suhru 2009 Shiraz (North Fork of Long abv: 12.5% Price: $19 structure, with lively acidity and a softly tannic finish. 85 Island). Hints of char, smoke and green bram- It drinks well now, but it could benefit from decanting. ble accent tart black-fruit and vanilla-spice flavors in Sherwood House Vineyards 2008 Cab- —A.I. this Shiraz (with a splash of Petit Verdot and Cabernet 86 ernet Franc (North Fork of Long Island). abv: 13% Price: $20 Sauvignon). The dense tannins are tacky on the palate, Smoke and char notes mingle with bramble, dark choc- but zesty acidity and fresh flower and herb notes on the olate and autumn leaf accents on this rustic, yet struc- Macari 2008 Merlot (North Fork of Long finish add elegance. —A.I. tured, Cabernet Franc. The palate is elegantly fruity, 87 Island). Superripe red fruit mingles with hints abv: 13% Price: $22 with a crisp black-plum flavor, striking acidity and a del- of milk chocolate and sweet spice on the nose and pal- icate touch of vanilla spice. The tannins are bold, so de- ate of this lush Merlot. Fresh herb, a spray of violet and cant to drink now. —A.I. soft, fine-grained tannins add structure and finesse to DESSERT WINE abv: 12.5% Price: $40 the palate. —A.I. Paumanok 2010 Late Harvest Riesling abv: 13.8% Price: $21 90 (North Fork of Long Island). This is ele- gantly perfumed with notes of waxy white blossom, tan- Long Island Merlot Alliance 2008 Mer- MERLOT gerine, honey and lemon zest set against a thin veil of liance Merlot (Long Island). The nose is Paumanok 2007 Merlot (North Fork of 86 lanolin. Paumanok’s late-harvest Riesling is intensely a tad fleshy with ripe red-fruit and sweet spice notes, Long Island). While this is supple and rich concentrated and complex on both the nose and palate. 90 but the palate is crisp with striking acidity and hints of with loads of sweet blackberry and blueberry fruit, the Striking lemon-lime acidity balances the rich, honeyed green leaves and forest floor. It tastes fine now, with penetrating minerality and a swathe of fresh flower and sweetness and extends onto the long, floral finish. —A.I. ripe, chalky tannins, but it should hold well until at least herb add depth and grace to this lovely Merlot. The abv: 9% Price: $50/375 ml 2015. —A.I. tannins are still quite taut, yet they’re ripe in nature. It abv: 13% Price: $35 drinks deliciously now, but it’s structured enough to im- Duck Walk 2010 Aphrodite Late Harvest Gewürztraminer (North Fork of Long Is- prove over the next five years. —A.I. Peconic Bay Winery 2009 Lot #1 Merlot 86 land). Perfumed with intense lily and gardenia notes, abv: 13% Price: $24 (North Fork of Long Island). Smoke, toast- 86 topped off with sweet tropical fruit and exotic spice, this ed coconut and dill notes amplify the underripe black- Shinn Estate 2008 Nine Barrels Reserve late-harvest Gewürztraminer is a bit of a sensory over- fruit and cassis notes on the nose and palate of this Mer- Merlot (North Fork of Long Island). Dense haul. On the palate, honeyed sweetness is balanced by a 90 lot. Taut with tannins and acidity on the midpalate, it with fruit yet finely textured, Shinn’s Nine Barrels Re- shower of lemony acidity. —A.I. finishes with hints of resin and spice. —A.I. serve boasts a penetrating dark-cherry flavor offset by abv: 11% Price: $19/375 ml abv: 12.7% Price: $20 shades of leather, granite, spice and mocha. Rippling with acidity and bold, mouth-coating tannins, it evolves Sherwood House Vineyards 2007 Merlot VIRGINIA beautifully in the glass, but would likely improve in the 86 (North Fork of Long Island). Smoke and cellar over 5–7 years. —A.I. dark chocolate notes abound on this elegant Long Is- abv: 13.7% Price: $42 land Merlot (made with 10% Petit Verdot). A touch aus- MERLOT tere on the palate, it has a black plum flavor shaded with Macari 2007 Reserve Merlot (North Fork Lovingston 2010 Josie’s Knoll Merlot hints of resin, leaves and game. Bold tannins add struc- of Long Island). Lush and forward with juicy 88 (Monticello). Ripe and fruit forward, this 89 ture and power. —A.I. blackberry fruit, this supple Merlot is richly concentrat- boasts aromas of blackberry jam, boysenberry, spice abv: 13% Price: $30 ed and creamy in texture, yet it’s invigorated by rippling and pastry crust. The palate is lush and creamy, with acidity and hints of freshly cracked pepper. It finishes a soft core that’s framed by accessible tannins. It’s a bit with a touch of fresh mint and briar. —A.I. OTHER RED WINES warm on the finish, but the flavors of berry and cedar abv: 13.8% Price: $36 linger. —A.H. Channing Daughters 2010 Mudd West abv: 14.5% Price: $20 McCall 2008 Corchaug Estate Reserve 90 Vineyard Blaufränkisch (North Fork of 89 Merlot (North Fork of Long Island). Long Island). Initial whiffs of smoke and green leaves Three Fox 2010 La Trovatella Merlot (Vir- Rich blackberry and black-cherry flavors are a luxuri- blow off to reveal intense flower and white-pepper 84 ginia). Light to medium in body, this expresses ous backdrop to the notes of savory Worcestershire notes. Densely concentrated with blackberry and boy- notes of toasted herb, black fruit and toast. The acids sauce, sweet spice, and darkly toasted wood in this senberry flavors, this Long Island Blaufränkisch (with start soft but brighten across the palate; the tannins are full bodied, yet elegantly structured Merlot. The tan- 25% Dornfelder) is taut and crisp with acidity and firm, adding muscle. —A.H. nins are ripe, but grippy, and they linger long on the crushed-stone minerality. A fresh herb note and a hint abv: 12% Price: $26

WineMag.com | 69 Barrel Oak 2009 Merlot (Virginia). Notes Boxwood 2009 Red (Virginia). Muted aro- OTHER U.S. 83 of cassis, herb, worn leather and mocha appear 82 mas of blueberry and spice carry through into on the nose. Medium to full in body, this is structured flavors that are equally tight-lipped. A charred-herb fla- with stocky tannins and supporting acids. The spiced- vor imparts a bitter sensation, with bristly tannins fram- AMERICA berry finish ends a bit short. —A.H. ing the soft fruit core. —A.H. Truro 2008 Triumph Meritage Blend 13.5% $27 13.5% $25 abv: Price: abv: Price: 86 American Red Table Wine (America). This blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and RED BLENDS OTHER RED WINES 7% Cabernet Franc is aromatically light, with wisps of strawberry preserve, currant and pastry. Light, dusty Albemarle 2007 Simply Red (Monticello). Barrel Oak 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon tannins frame the supple, easy mouthfeel. A tangy red- 86 This blend offers flavors of blackberry jam, pas- 86 (Virginia). Notes of char, wild berry, dill and berry flavor lingers on the warm, medium-length fin- try spice, plum and licorice. It’s full bodied, with a stur- caramelized sugar fill the nose. While it’s initially soft, ish. —A.H. dy structure and forward flavors. The medium-to-long bright acids and firm, medium-grained tannins bolster abv: 12.5% Price: $20 finish offers a spiced-berry note. Pair this with barbe- the midpalate. Pastry and dark berry flavors drive the cued ribs or grilled New York strips. —A.H. medium finish. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $29

Boxwood 2009 Topiary (Virginia). Barrel Oak 2009 Reserve Petit Ver- 85 Medium-intense aromas of sun-baked meadow, 86 dot (Virginia). Slightly shy aromas of spiced spiced black fruit, narcissus and Raisinette mark the pastry, wild berry and lilac lead into the full-bodied pal- slightly funky nose. Firm tannins frame the soft, full- ate. Even with its high level of strapping tannins this re- bodied core, with a touch of cedar surfacing on the fin- mains succulent, with a warm, structured finish. —A.H. ish. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $39 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Veramar 2010 Estate Club Cabernet Boxwood 2007 Red (Virginia). Notes of 85 Franc (Virginia). A note of ground chipot- 85 raisin, black currant, spice and smoke mark the le is at the forefront, with touches of blackberry pas- dark-smelling nose. This is a full-bodied wine, bolstered try and dark stone fruit. This starts off lush and thick, by firm tannins and uplifting acids. The finish endures with firm tannins framing the cassis and smoked- with soft notes of licorice and baking spice. —A.H. pepper flavors. The finish is toasty, with bright acids jut- abv: 14.2% Price: $25 ting out. —A.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $32 Boxwood 2007 Topiary (Virginia). Aromas 85 of dried strawberry, Fig Newton, black currant Annefield Vineyards 2010 Cabernet and licorice are ripe and forward, with a hint of bacon 83 Franc (Virginia). Faint scents of berry, spice, adding a savory element. This is a firmly structured char and toast gain aromatic volume with air. Tart acids wine, with a slightly warm finish. A grilled steak or a and ample tannins support the slender dark-fruit and hamburger would make for a good pairing. —A.H. creosote flavors. —A.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $24

Kluge Estate 2009 New World Red (Mon- Veramar 2010 Mourvèdre (Shenandoah 85 ticello). Full bodied, with structured tannins 83 Valley). For Mourvèdre, this is rather light in and bright acids, this has flavors of black cherry, dark hue. Assorted red-berry flavors are accented with notes berry and dried flower. A note of spiced black fruit adds of charred sugar and nail polish. The thick, globular pal- interest to the medium-to-long finish. This would pair ate leads into a tart, lightly pickled finish. —A.H. well with softly spiced chili or barbecue. —A.H. abv: 12.1% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $34 Three Fox 2009 Il Signor Reserve San- Shenandoah 2010 Rhapsody in Red 82 giovese (Virginia). Faint aromatics of bitter 84 (Shenandoah Valley). Veneered with oak, orange, rubber and anise biscotti unfold in the nose. the nose bears strong aromas of carpenter’s shop and Medium to full in body, this has structured tannins, with charred sugar, with notes of dark stone fruit and cran- flavors that fade on the midpalate but resurface again on berry sauce lingering beneath. While initially soft and the brisk finish. —A.H. syrupy, the midpalate gains some tannic traction. Raw abv: 12% Price: $27 meat and blackberry flavors mark the juicy finish. —A.H. Three Fox 2009 Piemontese Nebbiolo abv: 12% Price: $23 82 (Virginia). Scents of strawberry-rhubarb pre- serves and toasted herbs are streaked with a hint of la- Veramar NV Rooster Red (Virginia). A tex. On the palate, the tannins excoriate, and there’s a 84 domineering note of ground chipotle marks the light raisin note that unfurls across the midpalate. The nose, with dark fruit hiding in the background. Simple finish is all structure. —A.H. and spicy, this is a medium-bodied wine, with an open- abv: 12% Price: $29 knit texture and a finish that’s suffused with a note of berry preserves. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 SPIRITS a white-whiskey sour or other lemony drinks. OMG stands for Old Monongahela. WHITE WHISKEY AND CANADIAN WHISKY abv: 49.3% Price: $35 his month, the Spirits Buying Guide respectively), and is inspiring bartenders to CANADIAN WHISKY includes reviews of two burgeoning create innovative libations. Masterson’s 10-Year-Old Straight Rye categories: white whiskey and Canadian On the other end of the spectrum is Cana- T 94 Whiskey (Canada; 35 Maple/The Other whisky. dian whisky. The United States has long been Guys, Sonoma, CA). For full review see page 12. White whiskey—the unaged style some- the largest export market for Canada’s whisky abv: 45% Price: $80 times known by colorful names like white dog trade—particularly during and after Prohi- Tap 357 Canadian Maple Rye Whisky or moonshine—has taken on new life in recent bition. In general, Canada is known for rye- 92 (Canada; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, years. It’s a far cry from the illicit hooch that forward whiskies, often blends intended for FL). For full review see page 12. might have once rolled off a Prohibition-era mixing. abv: 40.5% Price: $30 still. Instead, modern white whiskey is refined The category has become more complex and diverse, whether made from corn, rye or lately, yielding such excellent rye whiskies Collingwood Canadian Whisky (Canada; 91 Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). Distilled other grains—or even from sugar cane. as Masterson’s; the maplewood-mellowed and blended at Collingwood Distillery in Ontario, this Many white whiskeys are overproof and Colling­wood; sweetened renditions like the Maplewood-mellowed whisky shows its best when giv- rather hot, meaning that unlike their barrel- maple-syrup-flavored Tap 357; and Spicebox, a en some time to open up. The dark honey-colored spirit aged counterparts, these are not generally in- naturally spicy Canadian rye. offers a mild vanilla aroma, with flavors of vanilla and tended to be sipped neat. Luckily, this category It’s enough to make you wonder what cre- bananas drizzled with maple syrup, finishing with gin- ger and allspice notes. Made with whisky aged for at is lending a fresh spin to all kinds of cocktails, ations might be coming next from our neighbor least three years. Best Buy. such as white-whiskey-based Manhattans and to the north. abv: 40% Price: $28 daiquiris (standing in for aged whiskey or rum, —Kara Newman Hirsch Selection Canadian Rye Whiskey 90 (Canada; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). Three years of barrel time yields WHITE WHISKEY Dutch’s Spirits New York Sugar Wash a light-gold whiskey with fresh, fruity notes that evoke 90 Moonshine (USA; Dutch’s Spirits, New apples, pears and lychees, a faint smoky flavor and a Charbay Hop Flavored Whiskey (USA; York, NY). For full review see page 12. sprinkling of ginger. Particularly food friendly, this light, 93 Charbay Winery & Distillery, St. Helena, abv: 40% Price: $30 soft whisky could be sipped alongside bread and aged CA). Made from Racer IPA, this is one of the most in- cheeses, or savory bites like smoked salmon. teresting and riotous options in the moonshine category. XXX Shine (USA; Philadelphia Distilling, abv: 43% Price: $37 The aromatics are sweet and funky, with a sour hoppy 90 Philadelphia, PA). This sweet corn-based note. Although it’s hot—as would be expected at nearly whiskey has a softness to it, with surprising delicacy for Pendleton 1910 (Canada; Hood River 100 proof—bright flavors still emerge, tempered by a the moonshine category. With its marshmallow aroma 90 Distillers, Hood River, OR). This 12-year- touch of sweetness and ginger-cinnamon fireworks. A and sweet vanilla flavor, it’s just a few steps removed old small-batch whisky is full bodied and supple, with surprising effervescence makes the flavors pop. from white rum. The jug-like glass bottle features a bold vanilla and caramel flavors and a spicy finish. The abv: 49.5% Price: $63 striking black and silver label. Best Buy. raised design on the bottle is gorgeous and tactile. abv: 44.4% Price: $25 abv: 40% Price: $40 House Spirits White Dog (USA; House 92 Spirits Distillery, Portland, OR). With a Onyx Moonshine (USA; Onyx Spirits Bison Ridge Special Reserve (Canada; zesty aroma hinting at spicy dried oregano, this tends 89 Company, Manchester, CT). Billed as 89 Crosby Lake Spirits Company, Saint toward the savory side, and would be a fine addition to “Connecticut’s first moonshine,” this is almost ridicu- Paul, MN). Made from the same “select blend from a Bloody Mary. Tropical-fruit sweetness appears on the lously neutral on every level. It has a mild aroma and the 1930s” that was smuggled across the border to the palate. With repeated sipping, spicy notes emerge on neutral flavor, with placid alcohol levels and a clean fin- U.S. during the Prohibition years, this eight-year-old the finish, and the heat builds up—as expected at 100 ish showing just a hint of gingery spice. whisky has a bright honey color and fruity aroma, plus proof. Overall, this is bold, mouthwatering and taut, and abv: 40% Price: $23 oaky layers of vanilla and caramel on the palate. Mix this it really sings on the palate. into whisky sours or drink it tall with lots of ginger ale. abv: 50% Price: $37 Dad’s Hat Pennsylvania White Rye (USA; abv: 40% Price: $15 88 Mountain Laurel Spirits, Bristol, PA). Rye High West Silver Whiskey Western Oat adds a spicy note to this small-batch spirit, which fea- Crown Royal XR (Canada; Diageo, New 91 (USA; High West Distillery, Park City, tures big pineapple and banana notes that wind into 89 York, NY). The second release in Crown’s Extra UT). One of the few whiskeys made from oats, this “sil- clove and cinnamon on the finish. It’s 100 proof and Rare Whisky Series, this XR (Extra Rare) blend is made ver” whiskey has a sweet, almost candied-cherry scent feels it—consider mixing this into a fruity drink. with the final batch of whiskies from Montreal’s LaSalle and a long cherry-almond-flavored finish. Try add- abv: 50% Price: $30 Distillery. The amber liquid has a distinct fruity note, ing this well-balanced whiskey to a fruity martini-style melding touches of vanilla and apple, and a long cara- cocktail or a white-whiskey-based Manhattan—with ex- OMG Pure Rye (USA; High West Dis- mel-flavored finish that’s marked with hints of clove and tra cherries, please. 87 tillery, Park City, UT). Stinging alcohol al- allspice. Velvety in texture, this feels on the hot side, and abv: 40% Price: $37 most overwhelms the malty flavor and citrusy finish. is best when diluted with water, which adds softness. Yet, there’s promise here. With plenty of dilution and abv: 40% Price: $130 sweetener, this spirit would provide fine backbone for Spicebox Whisky (Canada; Underdog 89 Wine & Spirits, Livermore, CA). Made us-

WineMag.com | 71 ing Canadian blended rye as its base, this is a sweet spiced whisky. This liqueur-like product has a golden color and a lovely sweet vanilla aroma that’s touched with a cinnamon note. It’s very sweet on the palate, with a big vanilla flavor and a creamy texture. Easy drinking and enjoyable; consider mixing it with ginger ale or cola. abv: 40% Price: $20

SinFire Cinnamon Whisky (Canada; 86 Hood River Distillers, Hood River, OR). This cinnamon-flavored liqueur is made with Cana- dian whisky, and boasts a red-hot flavor and heat like Fireballs candy. The sweet, rather potent, heat lingers awhile. It’s a fun mixer for those who like it hot. abv: 35% Price: $17

Ellington Reserve (Canada; W.J. Deutsch 85 & Sons, White Plains, NY). This eight-year- old whisky has a vibrant dark-gold color and mixes fresh apple, vanilla, and resin-like notes. The alcohol is appar- ent, but it should fade when mixed. abv: 40% Price: $15

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012 BEER and burnt toast notes, all laced with a thread of hop oil bitterness. Perfect for cool fall nights. THE IPA CRAZE CONTINUES abv: 7.6% Price: $6/22 oz Samuel Smith’s India Ale (English In- e all know the type: Those crazy peo- alcohol and an acceptable level of astringency) 90 dia Pale Ale; Samuel Smith Old Brew- ple who just can’t get enough hop fla- is playing more into consumers’ impressions of ery (Tadcaster), England). History and heritage Wvor in their beers. The feverish need the style. Some over-the-top examples are still are huge factors here, as the brewery was established in for high levels of hops and increased IBUs (in- around, especially in the double IPA category, 1758 and the beer was fermented in traditional open- ternational bittering units) consumed so many but for those looking to walk into the IPA pool topped slate vessels known as Yorkshire Squares. A con- sistent year-round release—roasty caramel-drizzled people for so many years that the motto of the instead of diving headfirst into the lupulin deep malt notes abound alongside hints of dried apricot, American craft beer scene almost seemed to end, a plethora of delicious options are avail- fresh-baked bread and earthy, woody spice. The malty be: The more hops, the better the beer. While able to ease you along. core is balanced by plenty of resiny hop flavors. The certain people might still find that to be true, Alternatively, for those with an adventurous brisk, drying finish shows some black tea astringency bigger does not always mean better, and thank- palate, brewers are crafting hybrid-style IPAs along with notes of peppery spice and citrus essence. abv: 5.0% Price: $4/550 ml fully in recent years it seems that many brew- to introduce consumers to new and exciting se- ers have heard the message. lections that offer something different. Uinta Hop Notch IPA (American IPA; Uin- Don’t get me wrong, American beers—es- This recent trend—a perfect example of 90 ta Brewing Company, UT). Pours a light pecially IPAs—are still hoppy, as they should the playful creativity that the brewing industry goldenrod color in the glass with a solid off-white head that lingers. This is a harmonious IPA that balances a be. But much like the revolt against overoaked embraces—mixes the intense hop profile of an round malt profile with assertive hop aromas and fla- Chardonnay and the thriving trend of lightly IPA with another style or different approach, vors. Hoppy notes of sweet citrus, grapefruit pith and oaked or unoaked bottlings, many consumers such as a Belgian-style wheat beer, a red ale fresh grass abound, lingering through the clean, medi- have finally gotten over the initial hop shock or a Baltic porter (to highlight just a few of the um-length finish. High carbonation and an acidic lift to and are now searching for more refined, bal- examples reviewed below). The results are the the close keep this selection fresh and easy drinking. abv: 7.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack anced options. new “colors” of IPAs available today, such as The American hop varieties commonly black IPA (also called Cascadian dark ale or Deschutes Chainbreaker White IPA (Bel- used in these brews still take the spotlight, American black ale), white IPA and red IPA. 89 gian IPA; Deschutes Brewery, OR). This but the idea of harmony with beer’s other sig- Many offer the best of both worlds, when the white IPA starts off with a frothy white head that lingers nature elements (a malt backbone to support balance is right. atop the cloudy, straw-yellow-colored brew, leaving seri- ous lacing behind when it does eventually fall. A lemony the dominating hop characteristics, balanced Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo aroma dominates the bouquet, infusing the bread and yeast backbone. Fresh herb and spice flavors unfold on the palate, and a slightly acidic twang hits the mouth Stone Ruintation Tenth Anniversary IPA Dock Street Rye IPA (American IPA; and carries through the linear finish. (American Double/Imperial IPA; Stone Dock Street Brewery, PA). A rye IPA is ex- 95 90 abv: 5.6% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack Brewing Co., CA). Stone Brewing scores again with its pected to lead with forward peppery spice and seed Ruination Tenth Anniversary, an attempt to take its reg- notes, and this gently delivers on that promise, along- Karl Strauss Tower 10 IPA (American ular Ruination IPA to the max. Labeled as “ruining pal- side aromas of earthy hop, soft malt and a slight peach- IPA; Karl Strauss Brewing Company, 89 ates for 10 years,” this full-bodied IPA’s hops take center pit nuttiness. Medium weight, with brisk carbonation CA). Tower 10 pours a golden amber color with a sol- stage, as expected. Copper in color with a frothy head, that lifts the spiciness on the palate, this is well balanced id white head that leaves beautiful lacing behind with it’s loaded with intense hop-fueled notes of pine, grape- and approachable, with a soft bitter bite to the close. each and every sip. Spicy, earthy hop notes are at the abv: 6.8% Price: $NA/12 oz fruit pith and a touch of sweet clementine. A caramel forefront, with a supporting fresh-bread and clean-malt malt note helps to keep the palate grounded, preventing spine. Bright citrus and tropical fruit acidity keep the Founders All Day IPA (American IPA; the bitterness from completely overwhelming the expe- palate fresh and lifted. This is balanced and approach- Founders Brewing Company, MI). A clear rience. The finish is long and appropriately astringent, 90 able, with medium carbonation and an appropriately golden-orange color in the glass, this is an easy-drinking with a slight warming sensation on the back. If you’re bitter bite to the lingering finish. selection that can certainly be a session beer for IPA lov- a hophead, at 110 IBUs, this one’s definitely for you. abv: 6.5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack abv: 10.8% Price: $8/22 oz ers. Moderate earthy hop aromas lead the nose, along with notes of grapefruit rind and soft pine needles. The Karl Strauss Tower 20 Double IPA (Amer- Samuel Adams Tasman Red IPA (Amer- mouthfeel is full but fresh, with bright orange supreme ican Double/Imperial IPA; Karl Strauss ican IPA; Boston Beer Company, MA). 89 91 and light malt flavors. It’s well-balanced overall, with a Brewing Company, CA). At 100 IBUs, this beer is This Red IPA is a playful marriage of the red ale and light pithy bitterness on the finish. not for the faint of heart, thanks to the huge amount abv: 4.7% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack IPA styles, and it works. It’s loaded with rich malty notes of Centennial, Cascade and Crystal hops added to each of caramel, toasted bread and softly roasted grain, but barrel; it’s also dry hopped with Crystal hops for a little Samuel Adams Dark Depths Baltic IPA balanced with similarly intense hop-driven character- more kick. The result is a seriously hoppy West Coast- (Baltic Porter/IPA hybrid; Boston Beer istics of hop oil, grapefruit skin and woody herb. It’s 90 style DIPA that isn’t shy on pine resin, tangerine oil Company, MA). An interesting selection from Sam- full-bodied, with a rich mahogany color and a tan head and earthy spice aromas and flavors. The full, creamy uel Adams’s new Single Batch lineup, this is not a beer that lingers. Accents of ripe stone fruit and fresh grass mouthfeel is countered by medium carbonation and an for everyone, but it should be attractive enough to those unfold on the palate before transitioning into the long, astringent finish. who are fans of the black IPA/CDA style. The rich, roasty softly bitter finish. Strong but approachable, and not abv: 9.5% Price: $9/22 oz overdone. porter core is partnered with intense, resiny hop aromas abv: 6.75% Price: $5/22 oz and flavors, providing a unique and intense experience. Port City Monumental IPA (American It’s full of dark coffee, cocoa powder, dried date, caramel 89 IPA; Port City Brewing, VA). This IPA pours

WineMag.com | 73 a medium orange color with flecks of copper when held ened with vibrant fresh-citrus and clean wheat flavors. up to the light. A slightly roasted malt note counters the A delicate, grassy hop profile stays through the finish. forward orange-rind and dried-grass hop characteris- abv: 6.0% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack tics. The texture is smooth and the palate round, with a hint of caramel unfolding on the palate. The bitterness Samuel Adams Third Voyage Double IPA grows throughout the medium-length finish, ending on 87 (American Double/Imperial IPA; Boston an attractive pine-resin flavor. Beer Company, MA). Although an assertive hop pro- abv: 6.3% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack file is expected from DIPAs, this new selection from Sam Adams comes off as a touch out of balance. Al- Samuel Adams Grumpy Monk Belgian though the bouquet shows some bright notes of fresh 89 IPA (Belgian IPA; Boston Beer Compa- grass, citrus rind and stone fruit, the palate is slightly ny, MA). Unfortunately, this selection is only currently overwhelmed with thick, heavy flavors of pine resin, hop available as part of Samuel Adams’s Hopology Variety oil and bitter fruit skin and a sweet caramel and toffee 12-pack—along with the Third Voyage, Dark Depths, malt core. Tasman Red, Latitude 48 and Whitewater IPAs—but abv: 8.0% Price: $6/22 oz it’s definitely worth it. A fun reimagination of a tradi- tional Belgian ale with an IPA twist, Grumpy Monk is complex and attractive, with notes of spice and stone fruit from the Belgian ale yeast mixing with pungent cit- rus and fresh-pine hop characteristics. A clean malt cen- ter complements the fresh peach and nectarine flavors on the palate, while the finish boasts soft allspice and clove accents. abv: 5.7% Price: $16/12 oz 12 pack

Ass Kisser Double IPA (American Dou- 88 ble/Imperial IPA; Ass Kisser Ales, CA). This DIPA is a hazy, dark orange color in the glass with a decent head. The bouquet is an attractive mélange of sweet and earthy hop notes framed by a slightly sweet caramel-malt accent. Bitter hops dominate the palate, but they’re not overdone or overly astringent. The me- dium-bodied mouthfeel and brisk carbonation keep the beer approachable and the finish lively. abv: 7.75% Price: $10/12 oz 4 pack

DuClaw Hellrazer IPA (American IPA; Du- 88 Claw Brewing Company, MD). Labeled as possessing “death-defying levels of New Zealand Motueka hops,” this is a strong selection that boasts as- sertive aromas and flavors of earthy hop, pepper and clove coupled with refreshing notes of apricot and ripe tropical fruit. The round and creamy mouthfeel is flood- ed with flavors of caramel malt and soft toast, but the finish is dry and clean, with lingering spice and grass accents. abv: 7.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

Saranac India Pale Ale (American IPA; 88 Matt Brewing Company, NY). Dry hoppped with Cascade hops, this is fresh and inviting, with im- mediate aromas of whole hop flowers, fresh-cut grass and sweet orange supremes. There’s a thread of clean maltiness that supports the hop profile throughout the nose and mouth. Medium carbonation provides a lifted palate, and the finish is subtly bitter. Overall, it’s a bal- anced and approachable IPA that’s crafted in a more tra- ditional style. abv: 6.0% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

Saranac White IPA (Belgian IPA; F.X. Matt 88 Brewing Company, NY). A cloudy peach col- or with a solid white head, this lively white IPA offers at- tractive notes of orange and grapefruit coupled with soft yeasty spice, coriander and light stone-fruit flavors. The texture is slightly creamy and mouthfilling, but bright-

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2012