FASHION | TREND WATCH TREND | FASHION Amazon India Fashion Week

AMAZON INDIA FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2016 Innovations for the season The Fall/Winter edition of Amazon India Fashion Week 2016, held from 16 to 20 March 2016 in New Delhi, had amazing fabric innovations. The developments were ideal for the season, says MEHER CASTELINO

s the year wears on, designers need to cater to a rather cool autumn and cold winter climate. Indian designers showcasing at the Fall/Winter edition of Amazon India Fashion Week 2016 offered buyers season-specific Aproducts, including experiments with textiles.

FIBRE2FASHION Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta is known for innovative textiles. This time too, its hallmark was a mix of different weaves and textures. Gupta showed a collection of handwoven, reversible Rina Dhaka’s collection revolved Pallavi Mohan’s Not So Serious label fabrics called Mumuksha, inspired around wool knits for dresses and balanced fashion and functionality. by the travel and art of American blouses. Lurex went into black and Pallavi paired woollen tweed with photographer Trey Ratcliff. There white tribal sheath dresses, and black soft velvet, silk, organza and satin. To were fine blends of merino wool, and gold bagru butis showed up on laser cut leather in interwoven stripes, monofilament silks, cotton, zari skirts. You could not miss the long, Pallavi added velvet, organza and and Akaaro’s very popular stainless black and white knitted dress with satin. The palette was winter hues of steel woven fabrics. The collection traditional gold buti. A hint of sheer wine, amber and teal. The silhouettes? was a line of separates with some sprinkled with applique flowers was Voluminous. Long, sleeveless coats sarees. Suiting fabric was used with on yokes of long sleeved dresses worn over trousers and midi skirts engineered techniques for oversized frilled at the hemline and sleeves. Zari with high slits paired with culottes. coats and jumpsuits with merino wool autumn leaves on satin capes brought Embroidered bomber jackets with blouses, draped sarees in cotton and in glitter. Glamour was epitomised by oversized lapels turned heads. zari and wool waistcoats. embroidered sheaths.

FIBRE2FASHION FIBRE FASHION | TREND WATCH Amazon India Fashion Week 2 FASHION covers. embroidered, floor-length maxis werewornwith Multi-coloured printed blouse combination. part ofthelongskirt- coats. Richodhnaswere and long,embroidered topped withtunics visible inprintedmaxis detailing. Layeringwas collection hadautumnal The and cottonwefts. of silk combination warps waswovenina surface in Gujarat.Theshiny from Patan thecraft after Ahmedabad, wasnamed from Virtues, The Mashrucollection had thetechnotouch. woven black/silvermidi sheath andintricately effect onafuchsia appeal whiletheshaded right amountofmetallic black tunichadthe asymmetric silverand pencil-slim ones.An comfortable pantsor paired withhighwaist silver greytopswere Simple, shimmering circles andellipsis. depicting theecosystem, graphs withdetailing ombré metchiffoncord mélange oftextiles.Wire Rimzim Daduuseda dresses andjackets. teamed withlayered,long up withmostgarments, Bandhani stolespaired at internationalbuyers. Western silhouetteslooked rustic, metallichighlights. played withkanthaand bandhani andshibori and Bhagalpur. Hand-tied with weavesfromBhujodi of dabu,bagruandajrak had blockprints,imprints elegant autumn, Dongre of luxuriousprét.For an jackets anddrapesspoke pinafore, structured Earth Song.Herjumpsuit, sustainable fashionwith Anita Dongresaluted maxi wereeye-catchers. fitted longblackandwhite and graphic, printedkaftan with elephantprints.The in white,redandblack dress three tieroff-shoulder pyjama wentwellwiththe adaptations ofthekurta/ the collection. Modern into textiles andbasketry shapes. Shecleverlywove in dressesandautumn Naga weavescamealive Naga head-hunters,exotic and wearable.Inspiredby garments werecolourful from Nagalandbutthe accessories andheadgear trifle theatricalwith may havelookeda and Feast collection Anupamaa Dayal’sFight Reynu Taandon’s presentation was a kaleidoscope of designs Sanchita worked around Divyam Mehta’s inspired by tribal culture. The Pankaj and leather jacquard faux menswear line, Into the There were embroidered Nidhi collection were fur for winter silhouettes Woods, worked with jackets, high waist trousers, inspired by Europe’s with glitter. It was a wool, linen, knits and skirts and capes with sand- cavalries of the 18th predominantly black and khadi denim. Shibori washed suede and felt fabric. and 19th centuries. white story with heavy hinted at a 3D bark- The collection was feminine Military uniforms knits. 3D pompoms on like effect. He added and opulent with balloon walked the ramp with appliqués highlighted kantha embroidery in sleeves and classic capes. braids, cord work, simple, white, long- wood grain patterns The almost-Aztec motifs on medals, military sleeved blouses worn for Samurai pants, trousers had matching, long ribbons and badges. with black midi skrits. carrot trousers, trench covers. There were printed, Using bespoke striped Silver foil patches added bundhgalas and double- embroidered or plain white gross grain fabric drama to a batwing breast suits. Colours cropped tops. Silhouettes with merino wool and sleeved top. Embellished were a strong mix of were loose. Wide gaucho heavy crepes, the biker jackets added mid-red, moss green, pants in navy blue with hint of camouflage glamour to sparkling mud brown, rock black, folksy, embroidered blouses patterns highlighted metallic mini skrits and ochre umber, burnt added colour. Leather was the military look. shirts. sienna and deep indigo. used in belts and hats.

FIBRE2FASHION FIBRE FASHION | TREND WATCH Amazon India Fashion Week 2 FASHION weather-worthy. tough woollenshawlswere silhouette wrappedwith skirts andtheegg-shaped wool dressesoverprinted buttoned, longsleeveheavy floppy pantsinpalebeige, Layered kurtashapesover over-sized shirtsandtunics. heavy linenculottes,long silk over-dresses matched coats. Hundredpercent and wooltwillchecked went withpolkadotskirts Stoles, skirtsandwoolpants in darkandneutralhues. into loose,comfortwear wood bamboowereturned linen, khadi,wooltwilland understated. Boiledwool, Eka’s collectionwas tie-up jackets. sarees werematchedwith embellished stoles.Printed tunics weredrapedwith pants withmatching kedia tops.Cropped,woven printed blousesandpleated was visibleintrouserswith Bohochic craftsmanship. prints reflectedtraditional Sujani embroideredblock pleating andikateffect. highlight? Classicdrapes, premium silksarees.The fine woolblendedwith collection hadhandwoven Fold -OnceUponaTime mélange offabrics.The but addedanunusual known forlinensarees eponymous brandis Anavila Mishra’s covers. with heavy-layered dresses werecovered loose andretro. Checked The silhouetteswere in throughredpoppies. messages. Colourcame hand embroidered added excitementwith prints fromGujarat Pradesh. Floralblack hand-woven inHimachal gamchha. Woollens were reminiscent ofthelocal fabric inWest Bengal Arora wovespecial gingham asthebase, black andwhite.Using worked withchecked Pero byAneethArora