© 2018 JETIR December 2018, Volume 5, Issue 12 www.jetir.org (ISSN-2349-5162) The Glory of Bangladeshi Saree and its Various Aspects Nadia Tasnim Piya BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology Abstract Bangladesh has diverse traditional aspects and a variety in the cultural influence on our costume. For Bangladesh; Costume is an impactful part which cannot be departed from our core culture as the connection between culture & costumes are always perceptible. While talking about costume; “Saree” is one of the focal points which got huge significance in overall Bangladeshi costume tradition. Being the national costume; Saree is a garment which is still in fashion since ancient time to now being unchanged. The purpose of this research is to signify our traditional costume; “Saree” and the way it’s connected to our own traditional and cultural heritage. Thus in this study; the main intention of author is to light up on various aspects of “Saree” which considered as the glory of Bangladeshi women since history to modern time. Author mainly put her focus on the historical background of Saree, its different parts, various draping styles, Saree in different culture, occasional uses and variety of Saree according to its quality etc. In short; through this research; one can, get the real gems and the over view concerning several different aspects of legendary Bangladeshi Saree. Key words: Bangladeshi Saree, Draping style, Jamdani, Muslin, Rajshai Silk, Tangail Saree. 1 Introduction Bangladesh is famous for its rich and diverse tradition that reflects through culture, clothing, music, art, dance, film, festivals, occasions, architecture, livelihood, literature and language and the behavior of individuals etc. Costume represents the cultures of a country. In Bangladesh; Clothing is one of the most significant aspects, which delineates the culture as well as Bangladeshi people very adroitly. Among all; “Saree” - plays a vital role in Bangladeshi costume sector as most of the Bangladeshi women always prefer Saree both as formal & informal wear as it has a big traditional value for the women of the country. This is actually a popular outfit in the subcontinent & never lost its attraction even in the modern fashion era[9].Moreover; the continuous changes in fashion & arrival of latest styles of clothing could never replace the glory of ‘Saree’ as it is the oldest clothing style of Bangladesh. 1.2 What is a Saree Saree is a female garment; originated from the Indian subcontinent that consists of a drape varying from five to nine yards (4.5 meters to 8 meters) in length and two to four feet (60 cm to 1.20 m) in breadth[8]. Basically to wear Saree, draping method is applied. Mostly women wrap the sari around their waist and tuck at that point also wrapping it around their shoulders. The top part of the sari can rest around the back of the neck or be pulled over the top of the head, leaving the face uncovered. [3].Saree has beautiful selvage decorated or ornamented with various type of motive, prints, weaved design, embellishment etc. The edge of the Saree (“Achol”in Bangla) is also often remaining finely ornamented. To hold the grace of the evergreen nature of Saree; with accustomed by the changing of time; Different people from different regions; around the world have different patterns and styles to wear Saree. 1.3 Brief Historical Background of Saree The word 'sari' evolved from 'sattika' mentioned in earliest Jain and Buddhist literature as women's attire History of sari-like drapery is traced back to the Indus Valley Civilization, which flourished during 2800–1800 BC around the northwestern part of the Indian subcontinent and the complete three-piece modern style of wearing Saree was known as Poshak, generic term for costume[8] . Cotton was first cultivated and woven in Indian subcontinent around 5th millennium BC. Dyes used during this period are still in use, particularly indigo, lac, red madder and turmeric [8]. Silk was woven around 2450 BC and 2000 BC. And the earliest known depiction of the Saree in the Indian JETIR1812124 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org 172 © 2018 JETIR December 2018, Volume 5, Issue 12 www.jetir.org (ISSN-2349-5162) subcontinent is the statue of an Indus Valley priest wearing a drape [8]. Based on sculptures and paintings, tight bodices or cholis (blouse) are believed have evolved between 2nd century B.C to 6th century A.D in various regional styles where early cholis (blouse) were front covering tied at the back; this style was more common in parts of ancient northern India; this ancient form of bodice or choli (blouse) are still common in the state of Rajasthan today [8]. 1.4 “Blouse and Petticoat”- The Integrated Parts of Saree There are two complementary parts that needed to wear ‘Saree’ -blouse & petticoat, though in old age traditionally working women never wear them [9]. Before modernization stepped in Bangladesh, the look of Bangladeshi Saree was much dissimilar than what it is at the present. In Medieval times, the concept of wearing Blouse and Petticoat wasn’t integrated in the traditional style of wearing Saree as during those periods, women used to spend most of their time inside their domiciles. However, with the changes in times; women had to keep their footstep out of their houses and socialize accordingly; which escorted towards the first transformation in Saree design. Gradually over the time; getting inspired from other sub continental cultures; especially similar to Persian and then Indian style of wearing Saree; that became an ensemble; the traditional Bangladeshi Saree has finally become a three piece garment by combining with two special outfits “blouse and Petticoat”; which has slowly accepted by the Bangladeshi people and became the common and popular trend of wearing Saree. As a Muslim country; Women here wear ‘Saree’ as well as long sleeved blouse not to exhibits body part. Whereas the Hindu community keeps navel open as per their belief- this is the symbol of life .So these believe influenced in design of ‘Saree’ in many way.[9] 1.5 Parts of ‘Saree’ The Major visible parts of Saree are segmented in below order: Draping – This works as doppatta or head covering & to cover the upper body. This is the most visible part of Saree while wearing [9]. So designers decorate this part with great care to make it eye-catching applying different design techniques. Pleats – Pleats making is the most complex part of wearing Saree. Sorted And nicely placed pleats attract the eye of the viewers. Thus various designers emphasize on the bottom parts putting more by their creativity in this parts of pleat by several techniques. Edge- Edge considers as the lower part of Saree where designers usually make borders putting embellishment or other application work to enhance the overall attraction. At present women are more conscious about the edge design. Body – This is the area that is less visible & mostly goes inside while [9]. 1.6 Basic Styles of Draping Saree Saree has its own aesthetic and artistic values according to various cultures that replicated in the lifestyles of people. The distinctive and unique techniques of draping Saree; reflects each of its own beauty. Adorning the basic style of wearing Saree called “Nivi” style; is easy and considered the most common techniques ; which originated in Deccan region of India.[8] The steps of wearing this style is given below in six easy steps: Wrap the Saree around the waist. Pleat and tuck the Saree . Form pleats to cover up the upper body and fold the remaining Saree in big pleats . Place the folded pleats over left shoulder. Take the edge of the Saree (“achol”in bangla) to the front through under the right hand. Tie a knot on the tip and fell it over the right shoulder. 1.7 Other Style names of Wearing Saree in Different Culture Contrasting to this reflection; the style of wrapping up a Saree is not limited to this three piece traditional style only as it has got more variety in styles through various cultures around the world. There are more than 80 recorded ways to JETIR1812124 Journal of Emerging Technologies and Innovative Research (JETIR) www.jetir.org 173 © 2018 JETIR December 2018, Volume 5, Issue 12 www.jetir.org (ISSN-2349-5162) wear a Saree and according to the French cultural anthropologist and Saree researcher Chantal Boulanger categorized Saree drapes in the following families [8]: 1. Nivi style. 2. Bengali and Odia style. 3. Gujarati/Rajasthani/Pakistani style. 4. Himalayan style. 5. Nepal MaharashtrianMadisar style. 6. Pin Kosuvam style. 7. Kodagu style. 8. Gobbe Seere style. 9. Manipuri style. 10. Khasi Malayali style. 11. Tribal style. 12. Kunbi style or denthli style. 1.8 The Glory of Bangladeshi Saree Although a lot of things have changed in Bangladeshi culture over the periods of time and as urbanization took place and influence of western culture brought some major changes in the lives of people in Bangladesh; still the amazing tradition made in this country has clustered under the labels of folk, modern and contemporary culture. Being a Muslim country; women; from both; cities and countryside, considers certain matters while wearing outfits as women stay conservative and are intended to show less skin ahead of hands, head and feet. Thus “Saree”-rather than any other costumes; is considered as the chief and traditional outfit of Bangladeshi women. Because of its long glorious heritage and values; since ancient to modern times; Bangladeshi women’s first preference is “Saree” for celebrating any type of cultural or religion festivals. Bangladeshi Saree has become a global fashion trend; specially made by the skillful hands of Bangladeshi designers, artisans and craft men.