Fibre Trend Watch LFW Summer/Resort ’18 2 their owncollections,thefabricstoomadeanimpact,reports with designerspushingtheircreativelimitsandensuringthatbesidesthedesignsfor atLakméFashionThe fabricstory Week Summer/Resort 2018wasvariedandinnovative Fabrics golocal Meher Castelino  Then, Maku by Santana Das showed for his collection In Transit fabrics that were woven in far away Bengal villages and included and jamdaani in a mix of yarn- dyed options with lots of linear weaves and indigo treatment. Hemang Agrawal’s experiments revolved around the Benaras weavers when he encouraged them by bringing in modern techniques and motifs with tartan checks, houndstooth, polka dots and contrasting stripes woven into a single fabric along with precious metals and natural fibres. A L W

he importance Jen j um Gadi H EMAN G A GR and rise of local fabrics in the country The highlights have provided  On the Northeast front, anT impetus to different Daniel Syiem promoted regions, bringing the beauty the ryndia fabric of of their various weaves to Meghalaya, while Sonam the forefront. The New Age Dubal worked on the fabrics and the texturing gamcha of Assam, his along with fabric dyeing home state. Manipur’s and weaving have added an Richana Khumanthem innovative direction to the emphasised the Wankhei textiles. Phee handloom textiles. All this dominated Lakmé Karma Sonam gave fabric AN K A J S E TH I Fashion Week Summer/ made from 100 per cent P Resort 2018. In addition, nettle importance, while the crafts that were used to Aratrik Dev Varman gave  Also at the forefront were enhance the beauty of the the riahs from Tripura Odisha weaves brought garments complemented the more prominence. to the ramp by Pankaja collections and ensured that Jenjum Gadi worked with Sethi who had stripes each piece had a distinct fabrics woven with the cleverly blended with identity. Among others, the loinloom method from the checks, while extra Northeast, which is rich in Nagaland with some weft patterns created a textile heritage and crafts, fascinating fashion kaleidoscope of designs. caught the fancy of fashion angles. The raw nature of the followers as the fabrics were weaves was the highlight turned into contemporary of the collection in earthy styles to suit global markets. MA K U tones.

Fibre2Fashion Fibre Trend Watch LFW Summer/Resort ’18 2 Fashion   handlooms. powerlooms totraditional airjet shuttle-lessand options byusinghi-tech, in anamazingarrayof fabric presentedTencel and herringbone.The like hopsack,waffle eye-catching weaves and stainlesssteelin were blendedwithsilk per centTencel yarns creations. The100 the Rajesh Pratap Singh alive ontherampfor The Tencel fabriccame

RAJESH PRATAP SINGH   Couture. referred toasFuture could thereforeonlybe the future.Theoutfits demonstrate fabricsof to envisageand were conceptualised and thegarments couturier parexcellence, Anita Dongre,’s collection. Itwasfor its-kind design-and-craft medley wasthefirst-of- ofthefabric,and weft at thecoreofwarpand where innovationwas fabric brand—R|Elan, (RIL) unveiledanew Reliance IndustriesLtd

ANITA DONGRE   on theramp. dyes thatmadeanimpact with acidandpigment highlighted handpainting was acollectionthat manually done.Hers since theprintwas pieces one-of-a-kind Larsen showedexclusive designer, HeleneBajaj Franco-Indian-Norwegian

HELENE BAJAJ LARSEN   leather andshibori. worked withsheepnapa intricate appliqués, to thefabric,therewere Adding Indiantechniques dresses andjackets. forpants, perfection as shedistresseditto creatively withdenim textiles andplayed relaxed fitsinnatural brought inhertrademark show, Ragini Ahuja For theLakméSalon

RAGINI AHUJA A SH II K AU R ADMA J A KR I SH NAN P NAU SH AD A L I U RV

 Padmaja Krishnan was  Working with silk,  Urvashi Kaur worked with inspired by artist Paul bamboo cotton, crêpe monochromes like grey Klee; so, there was an and linen, Naushad and ecru and then moved intelligent use of fabrics; Ali remained partial to to black, as she mingled prints and colours to natural dyes and added these with shades of blue. make the collection a interesting new shades of Bringing in interesting talking point at most green, which he mingled engineering techniques, functions. Mud-resist with indigo, yellow, black, she ensured that techniques were fused white, grey and red. The handwoven khadi and the along with natural dye print story was varied as transparent kota-doriya shades that came alive on stripes, checks and dots had linear patterns. The the ramp in myriad hues worked rather well for the signature Urvashi Kaur of natural colours. Her apparel. The result was a touches of hand tucking

specially woven, dyed, A S IN GH play of broad and narrow and micro-pleating were

organic cotton and linen NA K I T stripes, as well as checks very much present along were highlighted with line interspersed by dots with block printing, spaces and dashes, and that seemed to take a shibori and leheriya created with a million  Nakita Singh worked with fashionable walk through dyeing. stitches for texturing. pretty pastels like pink, the garments as they powder blue and white, appeared on different and wove her collection segments. story around handmade khadi cotton, linen, cotton silk highlights with florals, abstracts and machine and hand embroidery.

Fibre2Fashion Fibre Trend Watch LFW Summer/Resort ’18 2 Fashion   havoc inoceans. plastic wastethatcause regenerated marine made from100percent sustainable fabrics lace andtheamazing linen, delicateJapanese deconstructed mixof Bloni labelbroughta Akshat Bansalforhis

BLONI   single shade. 30 daystogetacorrect Gaurang attimesspent interiors ofGujarat, of indigodyeinginthe with theintricateprocess textiles. Working tirelessly fashion symbolinIndian indigo dyehasbeena the centuriestilldate, in MohenjoDaro. Over existence since1750BC which havebeenin timeless indigohues, expertise withthe as hemergedhistextile lasted nearly18months love fortheNeelrange Gaurang’s labourof   ended onkantha. kasuti, parsigaraand kashidakari, aari,rabari, starting withchikankari, by stunningembroidery final touchwasprovided leheriya andbatia.The bagh, bandhani,shibori, prints likeajrakh,dabu, most gorgeousblock added aprofusionofthe weaves. Gaurangthen kanjivaram anddhaka patola, paithani,khadi, in kota, benaras,patan and incorporatedindigo technique ofjamdaani his favouriteweaving Gaurang innovatedon different clustersinIndia, yarns procuredfrom With thehand-spun

GAURANG SHAH   weight khaditochanderi. like mulmulandmedium moved frompurecotton macramé. Thefabrics off withclampdyesand dyes andthenrounded floral tassels;ombré gold/silver handpainting, embroidery, French knots, her attirewithfabric Ka-Sha labelembellished Shahani Khanforher under control,Karishma of zerowastefirmly Keeping herphilosophy

KA - SHA A A DU TT A L S IN GH Y A S AN J U KT P S AA KSH A K INNI

 Sanjukta Dutta worked  Payal Singhal’s  The Saaksha and Kinni with rich, luxurious ensembles had label by Saaksha Bhat handloom fabrics that inspirations of Islamic and Kinnari Kamat comprised silk, cotton, art from Turkey, Morocco, offered an Indo-Western silk blends, silk yarns, Persia, Mughal India, look to the stylish woman. mulberry silk and Iran and Afghanistan. The pair worked with brocade that are native The beauty of the popular traditional Gujarati to the Northeast, and jaali, filigree and antique nandhani and were the highlight of this embroidery was cleverly prints and merged them collection. splashed on the regal stylishly with abstract garments. The stylishly floral designs. Mirror constructed , work played a major role, , and along with the designers’ A jackets glistened on metal and thread work the catwalk with kasav, techniques. AD HW

mukaish, fardi, zardosi AMI T W and filigree work. Payal opted for luxurious silk, jamavaars, brocades and  Amit Wadhwa used then added sheer organza khadi and mulmul with and tulle for a feminine, touches of yesteryears, seductive accent. and splashed them with contemporary, hand embroidery along with interesting screen-printed details.

Fibre2Fashion Fibre Trend Watch LFW Summer/Resort ’18 2 Fashion   knitted ribs. it withneopreneand Fake Show andblended his collectioncalledThe Burgoyne linenfabricsfor Kumar usedthe and modern. Narendra indulgent, individualistic fashion, whichis Original Linenrepresents world. Burgoyne’sThe celebrities aroundthe haute couturebrandsand admired andusedbytop fabrics havebeen its stylishandexquisite dating backto1912and has afashionablehistory Burgoyne linenbrand The international

NARENDRA KUMAR   creations. visual glamourofthe appliqués addedtothe machine texturingand hand embroidery, Hand-block printing, strewn ontheensembles. bougainville bouquets champa, rajnigandaand alive forthegulaab, came and neutralivory aqua, sorbetpink,blue semi-formal wear. Dusty skirt werearangeof take onthelehengaand Visualising amodern basis ofthegarments. linen andmulmulasthe alongwithfine the beauteousKota from Madhya Pradesh and lovingly createdin specially wovenchanderi used and Rahul Arya by Vineet Kataria The VineetRahul label

VINEET RAHUL   washed poplins. merged toclassicstone- fine merinowoolwere faced, technojerseyand exclusively made,double- multiple weights,while Crêpe provedpopularin flavour tothegarments. to addanindividualistic waxed Napacameforth stripersand hit fiery in quicksuccessionto Vintage floralsappeared personal styleimpact. the wearertomakea creations thatallowed DIY that theywereperfect the ensemblesensured oriental/tribal blendfor Japanese geishas.His feminine costumesof tribal patchworkandthe a clevermixofAfrican Dhruv Kapoorbrought

DHRUV KAPOOR   to thegarments. feel thatgaveashimmer blends withametallic khadi, silkandcotton separates inhand-made, Ties ThatBind,therewere shibori collection. Called with theirhand-crafted made astrikingimpact Amit Vijaya onceagain Richard Pandav and The Amrichlabelby

AMRICH A H I L IANI A R UN T GOO D LOO M T ANAMI K A KH ANNA

 The Good Loom collection  Tarun Tahiliani brought a  Anamika Khanna’s Grand presented by GoCoop symphony of gossamer Finale collection for the evoked the purity of fabrics, iridescent Lakmé Absolute New natural fabrics, great embroidery with creative Nudes range was created weaves and Indian use of ombré and fine with designs that were craftsmanship. On the embellishments that influenced by the new ramp from “the good displayed the beauty generation of millennials, loom” line with the best of constellations with who are bold enough to fabrics by master astronomy charts. wear their individuality weavers in India. From Chantilly lace, chanderi, on their sleeve. The use

the city of Benares came cotton, georgette, crêpe A R of traditional zardosi in

the grand chanderi and Italian tulle were KOTW experimental ways and saris for women, which enhanced with bead and a mix of various textiles, unfurled memorable resham work, as well as colours and prints, gave stories of the beautiful the sparkle of crystals  For the Kotwara label, each outfit a personality. textile. The hand-spun, and sequins. Detailing Sama Ali, daughter of This, fused with the hand-woven khadi like latticework, hand Meera and Muzaffar Ali, ‘nudes reinvented’ and cotton was turned painting and digital textile presented chikankari in theme resulted in an into very stylish and printing added to the a unique manner, which unconventional look contemporary menswear layers of flowing, fluid, was quite incomparable. that mixed checks, for shirts, , shapes brought forth by The addition of zardosi, prints, solids and waistcoats and shorts. celestial hues. aari and muqquaish to embellishments. the delicate chikankari embroidery, raised the design sensibilities to a more contemporary level.

Fibre2Fashion Fibre Trend Watch LFW Summer/Resort ’18 2 Fashion   of thestate. to payanodethetimelessbeauty wereused tilla andzariembroidery emerald greenalongwithintricate including black,maroonand Classic andboldjeweltonecolours the artisansandcultureofKashmir. cent merinowool–broughttogether the collection–madewith80per and theold-worldcharmofKashmir, elaborate andtraditionalart,motifs renewable fibre.Inspiredbythe a natural,biodegradableand the spotlightonmerinowoolas formen, throwing and saris forwomenandbandhgalas dialogue, Inayapresentedwool the ongoingsustainablefashion before. Capturingtheessenceof this fibreinawaylikenever merino woollinewhichpresented Inaya collectionwasManish’sfirst at LFWSummer/Resort 2018, the natural fibremerinowool.Launched a capsulecollectionusingthe couturier ManishMalhotraunveiled The Woolmark Companyand

PADMA RAJ KESHRI   stylish dressing. were idealfortraveland of Leh,theensembles yak woolfromthevillages like linen, pashminaand Using diversematerials modernity ofLadakh. was inspiredbyorganic Summer/Resort 2018look Woolmark India.Padma’s the Wool Runway for as asportswearlineat Raj Keshriwascreated collection byPadma Looms ofLadakh,the A fewseasonsago,

MANISH MALHOTRA