Fabrics Go Local
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CH T TREND WA LFW Summer/Resort ’18 FABRICSThe fabric story at Lakmé Fashion WeekGO Summer/Resort LOCAL 2018 was varied and innovative with designers pushing their creative limits and ensuring that besides the designs for their own collections, the fabrics too made an impact, reports Meher Castelino FIBRE2FASHION Then, Maku by Santana Das showed for his collection In Transit fabrics that were woven in far away Bengal villages and included khadi and jamdaani in a mix of yarn- dyed options with lots of linear weaves and indigo treatment. Hemang Agrawal’s experiments revolved around the Benaras weavers when he encouraged them by bringing in modern techniques and motifs with tartan checks, houndstooth, polka dots and contrasting stripes woven into a single fabric along with precious metals and natural fibres. L A W A GR A G UM GADI J EMAN he importance JEN H and rise of local fabrics in the country The highlights have provided On the Northeast front, Tan impetus to different Daniel Syiem promoted regions, bringing the beauty the ryndia fabric of of their various weaves to Meghalaya, while Sonam the forefront. The New Age Dubal worked on the fabrics and the texturing gamcha of Assam, his along with fabric dyeing home state. Manipur’s and weaving have added an Richana Khumanthem innovative direction to the emphasised the Wankhei I TH textiles. Phee handloom textiles. E S A J A All this dominated Lakmé Karma Sonam gave fabric K AN Fashion Week Summer/ made from 100 per cent P Resort 2018. In addition, nettle importance, while the crafts that were used to Aratrik Dev Varman gave Also at the forefront were enhance the beauty of the the riahs from Tripura Odisha weaves brought garments complemented the more prominence. to the ramp by Pankaja collections and ensured that Jenjum Gadi worked with Sethi who had stripes each piece had a distinct fabrics woven with the cleverly blended with identity. Among others, the loinloom method from the checks, while extra Northeast, which is rich in Nagaland with some weft patterns created a textile heritage and crafts, fascinating fashion kaleidoscope of designs. caught the fancy of fashion angles. The raw nature of the followers as the fabrics were weaves was the highlight turned into contemporary U of the collection in earthy K styles to suit global markets. MA tones. FIBRE2FASHION CH T TREND WA LFW Summer/Resort ’18 GH IN P S E A A T J GR A U N H O A D SH PR A INI E T J G A A R ANI R The Tencel fabric came Reliance Industries Ltd For the Lakmé Salon alive on the ramp for (RIL) unveiled a new show, Ragini Ahuja the Rajesh Pratap Singh fabric brand—R | Elan, brought in her trademark creations. The 100 where innovation was relaxed fits in natural per cent Tencel yarns at the core of warp and textiles and played were blended with silk weft of the fabric, and the creatively with denim and stainless steel in medley was the first-of- as she distressed it to eye-catching weaves its-kind design-and-craft perfection for pants, like hopsack, waffle collection. It was for dresses and jackets. EN RS and herringbone. The Anita Dongre, India’s A Adding Indian techniques J L A J fabric presented Tencel couturier par excellence, A to the fabric, there were in an amazing array of and the garments B intricate appliqués, ENE L E options by using hi-tech, were conceptualised H worked with sheep napa airjet shuttle-less and to envisage and leather and shibori. powerlooms to traditional demonstrate fabrics of handlooms. the future. The outfits Franco-Indian-Norwegian could therefore only be designer, Helene Bajaj referred to as Future Larsen showed exclusive Couture. one-of-a-kind pieces since the print was manually done. Hers was a collection that highlighted hand painting with acid and pigment dyes that made an impact on the ramp. FIBRE2FASHION NAN R SH I I L AU A K KR II A AD J SH SH A RV ADMA P NAU U Padmaja Krishnan was Working with silk, Urvashi Kaur worked with inspired by artist Paul bamboo cotton, crêpe monochromes like grey Klee; so, there was an and linen, Naushad and ecru and then moved intelligent use of fabrics; Ali remained partial to to black, as she mingled prints and colours to natural dyes and added these with shades of blue. make the collection a interesting new shades of Bringing in interesting talking point at most green, which he mingled engineering techniques, functions. Mud-resist with indigo, yellow, black, she ensured that techniques were fused white, grey and red. The handwoven khadi and the along with natural dye print story was varied as transparent kota-doriya shades that came alive on stripes, checks and dots had linear patterns. The the ramp in myriad hues worked rather well for the signature Urvashi Kaur of natural colours. Her GH apparel. The result was a touches of hand tucking IN S A T specially woven, dyed, I play of broad and narrow and micro-pleating were K organic cotton and linen NA stripes, as well as checks very much present along were highlighted with line interspersed by dots with block printing, spaces and dashes, and that seemed to take a shibori and leheriya created with a million Nakita Singh worked with fashionable walk through dyeing. stitches for texturing. pretty pastels like pink, the garments as they powder blue and white, appeared on different and wove her collection segments. story around handmade khadi cotton, linen, cotton silk highlights with florals, abstracts and machine and hand embroidery. FIBRE2FASHION CH T TREND WA LFW Summer/Resort ’18 H A G SH AN R AU G Gaurang’s labour of With the hand-spun love for the Neel range yarns procured from lasted nearly 18 months different clusters in India, as he merged his textile Gaurang innovated on expertise with the his favourite weaving timeless indigo hues, technique of jamdaani which have been in and incorporated indigo existence since 1750 BC in kota, benaras, patan in Mohenjo Daro. Over patola, paithani, khadi, A - SH A the centuries till date, the kanjivaram and dhaka K indigo dye has been a weaves. Gaurang then fashion symbol in Indian added a profusion of the Keeping her philosophy NI textiles. Working tirelessly most gorgeous block of zero waste firmly BLO with the intricate process prints like ajrakh, dabu, under control, Karishma of indigo dyeing in the bagh, bandhani, shibori, Shahani Khan for her interiors of Gujarat, leheriya and batia. The Ka-Sha label embellished Akshat Bansal for his Gaurang at times spent final touch was provided her attire with fabric Bloni label brought a 30 days to get a correct by stunning embroidery embroidery, French knots, deconstructed mix of single shade. starting with chikankari, gold/silver hand painting, linen, delicate Japanese kashidakari, aari, rabari, floral tassels; ombré lace and the amazing kasuti, parsi gara and dyes and then rounded sustainable fabrics ended on kantha. off with clamp dyes and made from 100 per cent macramé. The fabrics regenerated marine moved from pure cotton plastic waste that cause like mulmul and medium havoc in oceans. weight khadi to chanderi. FIBRE2FASHION A L TT A INNI DU GH K A A IN KT U L S J KSH A Y AN AA A S P S Sanjukta Dutta worked Payal Singhal’s The Saaksha and Kinni with rich, luxurious ensembles had label by Saaksha Bhat handloom fabrics that inspirations of Islamic and Kinnari Kamat comprised silk, cotton, art from Turkey, Morocco, offered an Indo-Western silk blends, silk yarns, Persia, Mughal India, look to the stylish woman. mulberry silk and Iran and Afghanistan. The pair worked with brocade that are native The beauty of the popular traditional Gujarati to the Northeast, and jaali, filigree and antique nandhani and batik were the highlight of this embroidery was cleverly prints and merged them collection. splashed on the regal stylishly with abstract garments. The stylishly floral designs. Mirror constructed lehengas, work played a major role, dhoti saris, kurtas and along with the designers’ A jackets glistened on metal and thread work HW AD the catwalk with kasav, techniques. T W mukaish, fardi, zardosi AMI and filigree work. Payal opted for luxurious silk, jamavaars, brocades and Amit Wadhwa used then added sheer organza khadi and mulmul with and tulle for a feminine, touches of yesteryears, seductive accent. and splashed them with contemporary, hand embroidery along with interesting screen-printed details. FIBRE2FASHION CH T TREND WA LFW Summer/Resort ’18 R L UMA U K POOR H A A A R T R V K CH I U END R R HR INEE NA V D AM The international The VineetRahul label Dhruv Kapoor brought The Amrich label by Burgoyne linen brand by Vineet Kataria a clever mix of African Richard Pandav and has a fashionable history and Rahul Arya used tribal patchwork and the Amit Vijaya once again dating back to 1912 and specially woven chanderi feminine costumes of made a striking impact its stylish and exquisite lovingly created in Japanese geishas. His with their hand-crafted fabrics have been Madhya Pradesh and oriental/tribal blend for shibori collection. Called admired and used by top the beauteous Kota from the ensembles ensured Ties That Bind, there were haute couture brands and Rajasthan along with fine that they were perfect DIY separates in hand-made, celebrities around the linen and mulmul as the creations that allowed khadi, silk and silk cotton world. Burgoyne’s The basis of the garments.