Three-Eyed Well in Xuanwu District
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BEIJING WATER ORAL HISTORY SERIES MY HOME AND WATER: A people’s AccOUNT Three-Eyed Well in Xuanwu District By Wang Jian Translation by Madeleine Ross and Fang Li Below is the eighth in a series of oral histories about Beijing water, as told to Wang Jian by Wang Yumin, Chef, and Yin Jingxiu, Fitter and Turner. Wang Yumin, 57 years old, Han nationality, Chef In the courtyard, house number 13 had a well Yin Jingxiu, 70 years old, Han nationality, Fitter dating from the Ming Dynasty. Three holes like and Turner little eyes had been chiseled into a rock in the platform around the well, which is where the WANG YUMIN name “Three-eyed Well” came from. People were afraid children would climb up ’ll talk about the lanes and wells first. using these “eyes” as toe holes and fall into the I well, so they covered the well with slabs of rock. There used to be a siheyuan (family compound As a kid I climbed up onto the platform and house) with an especially elegant courtyard in when I peeked down through a crack, I could Three-Eyed Well Lane (Sanyan Jing hutong). At still see water sparkling inside the well. the front entrance grew two Chinese scholar trees, so large that three people couldn’t encircle Before we had running water, neighbourhoods one with their arms, and they cooled a huge area like these relied on the water from wells. There with their shade in summer. They were at least were more than 700 wells in Beijing’s inner city a few hundred years old, but in the eighties they area in those days, and more than 500 wells in were chopped down. What a shame! It made the the outer city. We had three wells not far from lane really beautiful to have those two trees and our house: Gan Jing (Sweet Well), Shi Jing (Moist that spacious restful area. Well) and Kushui Jing (Bitter Water Well). Before liberation, there were more than 80 hutongs There were carved screen walls on both sides of (lanes) named after wells in old Beijing. the courtyard’s recessed south-facing gateway arch. The scholar trees flanked each side of the I have been to lots of hutongs because I started gate, along with two big lions. In 1958, the yard playing in them as a little kid. For example, was converted into a workshop for plastic toys, in Beijing we have One Well Lane, Two Wells reading glasses and things for students to use Lane, Three Wells Lane, Four Wells Lane and at school. After that, it was turned into a small all the way up to Seven Wells Lane. In fact, hardware factory, and later into an electrical there are more than ten places called Si Yan appliance factory. Jing (Four Wells Lane)! In Xizhimen there is a Three-Eyed Well in Xuanwu District | Beijing Water Oral History No. 8 | August 2008 Gao Jing hutong (High Well Lane) and a Xi Jing Valleys Willow Lane), Dachuandian hutong hutong (West Well Lane); to the west of Caishi (Great Valley Shallows Lane) and Xiaochuandian kou there’s Qi Jing hutong (Seven Wells Lane), hutong (Little Valley Shallows Lane); associated on the south side of Liuli chang Xijie there is with lakes there was Xihu ying hutong (West Liuli Jing hutong (Coloured Glaze Well Lane); Lake Camp Lane); and with the sea there was south of Guloudong Dajie (East Drum Tower Haiyun cang hutong (Sea Transport Warehouse Street) there is Sha Jing hutong (Sand Well Lane), Haibai hutong (Sea cypress Lane) and Lane); Longtou Jing hutong (Dragon Head Well Haibin hutong (Seashore Lane); connected with Lane) is north of Di’anmenxi Dajie; Dongshui ponds there was Shuitang hutong (Waterpond Jing hutong (East Water Well Lane) and Xishui Lane); and with springs there was Longquan Jing hutong (West Water Well Lane) are to the hutong (Dragon Spring Lane); connected with west of Chaoyangmennan Dajie; and south of canals there was Dagou yan hutong (Great Canal Fuchengmennei Dajie is Nan Siyan Jing hutong Bank Lane) and Yinsigou hutong (Silver Thread (South Four Wells Lane); Si Jing hutong (Four Canal Lane); connected with pools there was Wells Lane) is to the east of Fuchengmennan Hanjiatan hutong (Han Family Pool Lane) and Shuncheng Jie; Shuang Jing hutong (Double Well Jishui tan (Still Water Pool); connected with rain Lane) is to the south of Guangqumenwai Dajie; there was Yuer hutong (Rain Lane) and Ganyu on the west side of Deshengmenwai Dajie there hutong (Sweet Rain Lane); connected with snow is Xi Xiao Jing hutong (West Small Well Lane); there was Xuechi hutong (Snow Pool Lane). Da Jing hutong (Big Well Lane) is to the north There were also Nanshuiguan hutong (South of Ande Lu; Da Tianshui Jing hutong (Big Sweet Water Gate Lane), Shuidaozi hutong (Water Water Well Lane) is west of Wangfujing Dajie; Canal Lane), Shuiche hutong (Water Car Lane), Qian Jing hutong (Front Well Lane) is on the and then there were the other hutongs – Ganshi south bank of Shishahai Houhai; Datong Jing qiao (Sweet Stone Bridge), Ganshui qiao (Sweet hutong (Big Bronze Well Lane) and Xiaotong Water Bridge), Xiaoshi qiao (Small Stone Bridge), Jing hutong (Little Bronze Well Lane) are to the Beihe cao (North Riverbed), Houshui pao (Back west and east of Xinjiekoubei Dajie; then east Water Bubble) and Jinyu hutong (Goldfish) of Qianmen Dajie there is Luojia Jing hutong Lanes … my goodness, there were so many lanes (Luo Family Well Lane); and south of Dong involving water! Damochang there is Ban Jing hutong (Plank Well Lane); further south there is Tongjing Running water was introduced in Beijing in Dayuan hutong (Copper Well Big Courtyard 1910 but not every household got it. Most homes Lane); finally, north of Xijiaomin Xiang you will still had to rely on water carts to deliver water. find Jing Lou hutong (Well Tower Lane). Before The carts were made of wood, and only had two liberation there were dozens of hutongs just wheels, so people living in the lanes were all called “Jing er Hutong” (Well Lane)! very familiar with the “creak, creak” sound they made. Each cart carried a large oval wooden The lanes in the old city didn’t have a connection barrel full of water with a little hole at one end with wells only, but with anything involving stopped up with a cork, used to draw off the water: streams, rivers, lakes and the sea. For water. Two other buckets on the cart – scrubbed example, there were many lanes that had names as clean as anything with a brush – were just for connected with rivers: Dajiang hutong (Great catching water. The cork was taken out of the River Lane), Xiaojiang hutong (Little River Lane) barrel and just as the bucket was filled, the barrel and Zhenjiang hutong (Cool River Lane), Sanli was plugged up again, so that not even a drop of He hutong (Three Mile River Lane), Hebochang water was wasted. People who didn’t buy water hutong (Riverpond Yard Lane), Mohe hutong could go and fetch it themselves at communal (Ink River Lane) and Xihe yan hutong (Western taps in the lanes. Earlier, in the 1950s, anyone River Bank Lane), Sanchuan liu hutong (Three passing by could just go there and collect water. 2 Three-Eyed Well in Xuanwu District | Beijing Water Oral History No. 8 | August 2008 But in the 1960s, a metal box was put on the taps water table be? It won’t be possible to fix it then and each family was issued with a key, because and what will our descendants do? from then on, we were charged for water usage, so passers-by couldn’t just take water as they YIN JINGXIU pleased. What left the deepest impression on me were Next I’ll talk about how it rained really heavily the huge rains in 1954 that fell continuously for when I was small. days on end and caused real problems for the wheat harvest. In summer, grain gets mouldy In 1962, there was such a huge downpour that and rots. There was no lack of water then, not we couldn’t go out. I was a little kid then and like today – there’s none at all now. In 1954, I really happy about it, but the grownups were was living near Dong Da Qiao (East Big Bridge) worried; there was nothing to eat, the house and there was one Sunday when it poured so leaked and the drains got blocked up. Water much that the water level nearly came up to the wouldn’t drain properly and the street was full chassis of the bus, the motor wouldn’t start and of water. The older one-storey homes leaked a there was nothing that passengers could do but lot and some people’s houses were really bad, get off the bus and wade through the water. You but they had nowhere to go. Then the primary should have seen the fish, they were everywhere, school in Charcoal Lane stopped classes and so I got a sieve from home and scooped out more cleared out the classrooms for people from than 20 pounds of them and gave them all to the the neighbourhood to stay in. In 1972, there factory canteen. Going south from where I lived My master jumped in to save him without thinking about how high the water level was at the time, and neither of the two men survived. was another huge downpour. At the time I was near East Big Bridge to South Yong’anli and all working in Mentougou, and the water came the way to the traffic police station, the area to gurgling down the mountain, making the river the west of Guanghua Road was covered with big really broad and creating waves.