B4 foteodch NOWONLINE: 100 Cheap Eats to try on LI I eL Explor newsday.com View our guides and listings of LI restaurants at newsday.com/restaurants Y PERR GE MAR webspecial Get afull plateofMarge Perry’s ThreeSimple recipes —fromapples to zucchini. newsday.com/food UNG YO DOUG FRIED CALAMARI La Tavola Trattoria, Sayville

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20 and tentacles that’s the big flair amid the ceviche and the

7, ‘D “I don’t think so,but Icould catch. stuffedpiquillo peppers. check with the kitchen.” Cafe Buenos Aires, 23 Wall PUB This Q&A from “Groundhog Day” could Thom Thom in Wantagh isn’t St., Huntington, 631-603-3600.

EPTEMBER satisfied with merelyfrying. cafebuenosaires.net IRISH describe the experienceatnumerous ,S Thekitchen offers kung pao THE AY restaurants via countlessmenus in Nassau calamari, sauced as if it’s Italian and Italian-American and Suffolk. chicken in Chinese restaurants, restaurants elevate squid almost HURSD feedme Some dishes arenearly everywhereand too with added crunch from as regularly as pasta. Thefried ,T ground peanuts. Who needs a calamari at La Tavola Trattoria in

AY Restaurant openings, closings and manytastethe same. So,here’s adigestible fish house? Sayville is avery satisfying SD culinary events —get the latest dish report on 10 signaturedishes thathavetaken every dayonour blog. Thom Thom, 3340 Park Ave., version, with plentyofcrunch NEW newsday.com/feedme hold on Long Island —and the dining rooms Wantagh, 516-221-8022, outside and tendernesswithin. wheretheystand out. thomthomrestaurant.com Dip the rings in aspicy marinara B5 newsday.com/restaurants Explor

sauceor, even better, ariffon lowernow.But duck themed restaurant in eL saucerémoulade laced with remains amenu staple, GreatNeck, is committed I horseradish. from all sources. to duck in manyforms. La Tavola Trattoria, Themain dish these days 183W.Main St., Sayville, Thecombo of seared duck is the seared Hudson 631-750-6900. breast and confit of duck leg Valleyduck breast, accom- latavolasayville.com is afour-star classic at panied by awhite-bean Mirabelle,inthe Three ragout and duck bacon, PASTAWITH WHITE VillageInn in StonyBrook. with an herbaceous jus. If CLAM SAUCE Currently, it’s accented with you’reinafull duck 2 If there’s aleading avol-au-vent of chanterelle mood, sample the foie candidate forthe national mushrooms and corn, gras. dish of Long Island, this is it. pickled cherries and roasted Lola, 113A Middle Neck Yo u’ll find it moreoften than eggplant. Theduck Rd., Great Neck, spaghetti and meatballs or liver-and-foie gras mousse 516-466-5666, lasagna —combined. with toasted brioche is alush restaurantlola.com waytoprecede it. An exceptional Mirabelle,150 Main St., FRIED CHICKEN production will be found at StonyBrook, 631-751-0555, Roast chicken is an unlikelysource: Bryant & 4 wonderful and lessings.com Cooper,one of Long Island’s barbecued chicken atreat; topsteakhouses. It’s a Beijing duck highlights grilled chicken, elemental; destination forstone crabs Chinese cuisine. Monsoon and chicken potpie,homey. in season and lobster Steak &Sushi in Babylon Butfried chicken’s appeal is anytime,but the buttery, prepares one of the best, a unassailable. rich linguine with white whole Peking duck served Southern cooking is clam sauceisamajor main fortwo,with cucumber, reveredatLL Dent in Carle course. Youcan precede it scallion, hoisin, parchment Place, ashopping-center with clams oreganata, skin, shredded duck and restaurant that transports casino or on the half shell. steamed buns. you. Thefried chicken is Bryant &Cooper, Monsoon Steak &Sushi, exceptional, served with 2Middle Neck Rd., Roslyn, 48 Deer Park Ave.,Babylon, twoside dishes. Fried 516-627-7270, 631-587-4400, chicken and Belgian waffles pollrestaurants.com monsoonny.com Lola,the Mediterranean- See FAVORITES on B6 Jonathan’s Ristorantein Huntington mixes the tradi- tional and the contemporary, Italian with NewAmerican. Afterafine fritto misto or a saladwith beets and robiola cheese,order the expertly made spaghetti with Manila clams and roasted garlic, spurred by the little kick from avery serious habanero chili pepper.

Jonathan’s Ristorante, KI 15 Wall St., Huntington, WS 631-549-0055, jonathansristorante.com ALBINO ONNE

Almost equal parts New YV American and Italian, Cafe PASTAWITH WHITE CLAM SAUCE Testarossa stylishlyzooms CafeTestarossa, Syosset along with creative, ne consistentlyexcellent food. ws da

Linguine with Manila clams y. goes pedal-to-the-metal co m with Calabrian pepper and basil. NEW Cafe Testarossa, 499Jericho Tpke., Syosset, SD AY

516-364-8877, ,T cafetestarossa.com HURSD

DUCK AY

Long Island ,S 3 duckling trulyis“the EPTEMBER big duck,” from roadside architecturetoahistory of ALES YB duck farming thatproduced 7, 20

morethan 7million JEREM quackersinthe 1960s. The DUCK 17 number is considerably Lola, Great Neck B6 food I

eL Wheretoget LI’s favoritedishes Explor FAVORITES from B4 sauceand, adding some other ingredients, in the fired-up will enticeyou, too. And try penne arrabbiata and Roman the cheese grits, the cornbread, rigatoni all’Amatriciana. sweet-potatobiscuit, Hoppin’ Mamma Lombardi’s, John and sweet potato pie. 400 FurrowsRd., Holbrook, LL Dent, 221Old Country 631-737-0774. Rd., Carle Place, 516-742-0940, mammalombardis.com lldent.com Sergio’s is alongtime neigh- Orient Odyssey in Jericho ranks borhood favoriteinMassape- high among Long Island’s Chi- qua. Pastawith sardines, beef nese restaurants, foreverything braciola, tripe,porkchops from dim sum to mayonnaise with vinegar peppers, an PETIT shrimp with sugared walnuts. UNG orangesalad areall attrac- YO

Deep in the extensive menu is AMIN tions. Likewise,perciatelli

“golden fried crispychicken,” DOUG BENJ with tomato sauce, spaghetti with roasted garlic —arustic FRIED CHICKEN ZITI WITH RED SAUCE, above and on the cover and meatballs, stuffedshells, feast. Salamander’s on Front, Greenport Mamma Lombardi’s, Holbrook lasagna, bakedziti, ravioli Orient Odyssey,511 N. Broad- and manicotti. way, Jericho,516-719-0021, Sergio’s, 5422 Merrick Rd., orientodysseyny.com Massapequa, 516-541-6554, sergiositalianrestaurant.com Salamander’s on Front in Greenport is the destination BRANZINO formemorable fried chicken Thefish of the mo- with coleslawand cornbread, 6 ment, succeeding simple and to the point. Chilean sea bass and filet of Enjoyitwith an order of some-kind-of-sole,branzino is Buffalo-stylechicken wings, amild, unassertive Mediter- or quietlypick the Viet- ranean sea bass amenable to namese caramel duck legsto manypreparations. give another big birdequal Full-flavoredand carefully time. Outstanding to take out, cooked is the whole fish too. bakedinasalt crust at Casa Salamander’s on Front, Rustica in Smithtown. The 38 Front St., Greenport, moist, aromatic fish is com-

631-477-3711, KI plemented by atomato con- salamandersonfront.com WS cassé, with lemon, parsley and mustard, and filleted PASTAWITH RED SAUCE ALBINO tableside. Thesea of marinaraand Casa Rustica, 175W.Main ONNE

5 tomato saucecontinues to YV St., Smithtown, 631-265-9265, rise. Yo ucan getagood version BRANZINO Arturo’s Ristorante Italiano,Floral Park casarustica.net in the most informal place, in a pizzeria, offthe shelf.These Kyma in Roslyn leads the three areamong the leaders in restaurants thatfocus on simmering the sauce. whole grilled fish sold by the pound. Lavraki, or Scarpetta Beach is the Mediterranean sea bass,is handsomelydesigned lean and one of the main

m oceanfront restaurant in choices, along with pompano,

co Gurney’s Montauk Resort & black sea bass and fagri, or y.

da Spa. Expect extraordinary pink snapper.

ws pastas and atransporting Kyma, 1446 Old Northern ne exercise in perfection: the Blvd., Roslyn, 516-621-3700, simply named spaghetti, kymarestaurants.com 17

20 subtitled tomato and basil.

7, Sweet and superb,crowned Whole branzino al forno is with Parmigiano-Reggiano. aspecialtyatArturo’s Ris- Scarpetta Beach, 290 Old toranteItaliano,the veteran

EPTEMBER Montauk Hwy., Montauk, establishment near the

,S 631-668-1771, ldvhospitality.com countyline in Bellerose-

AY Floral Park.Itswims in on To mato sauceoverflows at greens, boosted by white

HURSD Mamma Lombardi’s in Hol- wine and garlic sauce.

,T brook, whether you’reeating Arturo’s RistoranteItaliano, AY in the main restaurant or the ALES 246-04 Jericho Tpke., Floral SD adjoining pizzeria. Sample it YB Park, 516-352-7418, NEW

with the spaghetti in mari- JEREM arturorestaurant.com narasauce, ziti with tomato MEATBALLS Emilio’s, Commack newsday.com/restaurants B7

MEATBALLS steamed lobster with Salt &Barrel in BayShore

They come in many coleslawand corn on the cob livens up its stuffedclams Explor 7 sizes and from many is the reigning rendition. with andouille sausage, plus countries, from China to Swe- Louie’s Grill &Liquors, onion and breadcrumbs. They eL den to Italyand beyond. Yo u 395Main St., Port Washington, call foronlyasquirt of I can savorthem at apizzeria, a 516-883-4242, lemon. And the companyof restaurant, even at the eatery louiessince1905.com the restaurant’s tarragon in IKEA. And pick your fa- biscuits is obligatory. vorite, from beef to chicken to Jordan LobsterFarms leaves Salt &Barrel, 61 W. Main St., the combination of beef,veal nothing to mystery.Diners BayShore, 631-647-8818, and pork. and customersknowwhy saltandbarrel.com they’rehere. Lobster rolls Emilio’s in Commack is the and lobster cakes areavail- SALMON flagship of alittle Long Is- able. Butthe whole steamed It’s almost every- 1 land armada of eateries. It’s lobsters, from 1 /4 to 10 10 whereand prepared packed forterrific pizza, pounds define the place. Call almost anyway.Broil, sear, appealing pastaand Italian- aheadtosee whether the bake, poach —pick one. Or American specialties. The bigger ones areavailable. The have it uncooked as sushi or beefy appetizer of Mamma lobster is served with sashimi at nearly all Japanese Mia Meatballs is reason coleslaw, fries, lemon and restaurants, whereyou’relikely enough to visit, plated with a butter. to find it in teriyaki, too. And

long-simmered sauce, ricotta, BRENNAN Jordan Lobster Farms, 1Pettit devotees of smoked salmon sweet roasted peppersand Place, Island Park, must visit the nearest Fairway NIEL

garlic bread. Thedish also is DA 516-806-6251, forScottish, Irish, Nova Scotia, served at FanaticoinJericho STEAMED LOBSTER Louie’s Grill &Liquors, Port Washington jordanlobsterfarms.com pastrami-seasoned and pickled. and Passione in CarlePlace. Emilio’s, 2201Jericho Tpke., Prime: An American Kitchen Toku Modern Asian,astar Commack, 631-462-6267, &Bar has awater view,de- feeding shoppersatthe emilios-restaurant.com pendable NewAmerican Americana Manhasset, sears cuisine and sushi, and, yes, salmon and complements it Tony Colombos in Rockville steamed lobster.The with bok choy, eggplant, soy Centremakes the beef-veal- 2-pounder is all you’d want. and ginger.Itcompetes with a porkvariety, with asavory Lobster also appearsherein cooked salmon-and-avocado Sundayred sauce, whipped lobster-and-corn chowder, roll, salmon tartareand salmon ricotta with basil, crisp pro- shrimp-and-lobster wontons, sushi and sashimi. sciutto chips and focaccia alobster cocktail and butter- Toku Modern Asian, 2014C crostini. Ye s, it’s an appetizer. poached lobster to enrich a Northern Blvd., Manhasset, Tony Colombos, 208Sunrise steak or anything else. 516-627-8658, Hwy., Rockville Centre, Prime: An American Kitchen pollrestaurants.com 516-678-1996, &Bar,117 NewYork Ave., tonycolombos.com Huntington, 631-385-1515, TheJolly Fisherman &Steak restaurantprime.com House,inits 60th year near the Maroni Cuisine is asmall pond in Roslyn, is areef-and- restaurant with big ambitions. BAKED CLAMS beef establishment that’s both Come forthe tasting menu, a Yo ucan have them traditional and contemporary. showcase of different cuisines 9 oreganata,casino, Thehouse’s salmon is and preparations and maybe seasoned with hot sausage, enriched with amacadamia- 25 courses. Butthe distinctive horseradish and more. The nutcrust and golden banana

spot is known forGrandma’s BRENNAN breadcrumbs will vary,the fritter. meatballs, available by the tastyresult shouldn’t. The JollyFisherman &Steak NIEL

pot, and fortheir victory in a DA House,25Main St., Roslyn, televised “throwdown” over BAKED CLAMS Catch Oyster Bar,Patchogue Artie’s South ShoreFish 516-621-0055, those of celebritychef Bobby Market &Restaurant in Island jollyfishermanrestaurant.com Flay. TKO. Park does offerbaked clams Maroni Cuisine,18Woodbine with the subtle tingle of Themanylocal branches Ave.,Northport, 631-757-4500, horseradish, asuggestion of of Bagel Boss areappetizing maronicuisine.com lemon zest and garlic. spots forsandwiches, wraps, They’reone of manydishes salads, omelets, pancakes,

STEAMED LOBSTER you’ll want at the ultracasual French toast and rugelach. ne Theking of shellfish restaurant and fish market. Sample the Atlantic smoked ws da

8 y. on Long Island and Artie’s South ShoreFish salmon, bellylox and baked manyother coastal venues, Market &Restaurant, kippered salmon, with or co m it’s immortalized heregrilled, 4257 Austin Blvd., Island Park, withoutabagel, with or broiled, boiled, in alobster 516-889-0692, withoutaschmear,toeat in NEW roll either warm or cold, in southshorefish.com or take out. restaurants American, Italian, Bagel Boss locations include SD AY

Chinese,more. Butit’s hard Catch Oyster Bar in Hewlett, Oceanside,LakeSuc- ,T to topthe simply steamed Patchogue is no largerthan a cess, Carle Place, Jericho, HURSD beauty. bluepoint. Butabout30 Merrick, East Norwich, Roslyn,

dinerscan dig intothe raw BayShore, East Northport AY

Louie’s Grill &Liquors,the and cooked shellfish. The ,S EPTEMBER latest incarnation of what KI cooked include baked clam startedin1905 as abarge on WS “stuffies,” first-classbaked Manhasset Bay, is amajor clams emboldened with NOWONLINE ALBINO seafood house. Thelobster bacon. Ample and excellent. Back-to-school snacks 7, Cantonese is diverting, and CatchOysterBar,63N. 20

ONNE newsday.com/food 17

the twotypes of lobster roll YV Ocean Ave.,Patchogue,631-627- 1 addictive.But the 1 /2-pound, SALMON Toku Modern Asian, Manhasset 6860, catchoysterbar.com