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A QUARTERLY NEWSPAPER WRITTEN BY AND FOR THE SEA RANCH ASSOCIATION MEMBERS NUMBER 122 FALL 2014

IN THIS ISSUE: Sea Ranch Celebrates Volunteers; Community NORTH COAST MUSIC NIGHT Spirit Award Presented to Jim DeWilder Around 120 Sea Ranchers gathered at SEAL DOCENT UPDATE One-Eyed Jacks on August 31 to share good food and drink and celebrate volunteerism on the coast. Commu- NOBEL PRIZE WINNER nity Manager Frank Bell welcomed the group for the seventh annual picnic and read a long list of folks who have joined the ranks of volunteers for committees, SEA RANCH HISTORY task forces and other organizations, both on and off The Sea Ranch, since last year’s event. The afternoon was also the occasion for the presentation of the TSRVFD Considers Rosemarie Hocker Community Spirit Forming Fire Award. The award was first presented in 2011 Protection District and was developed by the Communica- by Bonnie Plakos, President, and Don McMahan, tion Committee and established by the Vice President, TSR Volunteer Fire Department Community Manager. lt is named in Board honor of former Board Member Rose- marie Hocker, who passed away that Many Sea Ranchers have had to call year. In leadership roles and in her vol- 9-1-1 and have been relieved to see big unteer work behind the scenes, Rosema- red trucks and friendly faces at the door rie, by encouragement and example, ex- in a very short time (day or night, rain emplified what is meant by Community or shine). We are fortunate that we have Spirit. both dedicated volunteer firefighters and a CALFIRE station staffed 24/7 with full- “It continues to be one my life’s great time paid firefighters. Members of The pleasures to be able to present this Sea Ranch Volunteer Fire Department award, named for the first person who (TSRVFD) and our year-round CALFIRE reached out to me when l first moved to staff train and respond together as “Sea The Sea Ranch,” said Communication Ranch Fire” to provide a high level of ser- Committee member John Forenti as he vice to TSR and surrounding areas. This announced this year’s recipient. “Rose arrangement has been in place since the lived her life with a great sense of pur- early 1970’s, and has been a model of vol- pose, and a very special kind of grace unteer/career fire department partnership. and eloquence that improved the quality of life of all those who knew her.” He Unfortunately, if the trend of diminishing then presented this year’s award to Jim funds to fire protection at TSR continues, DeWilder. within a few years we will not be able to fund our fire services at the same level as “Jim has been a very active volunteer at we do today. Sea Ranch and in the larger community, and exemplifies the volunteer spirit that John Forenti (L) presented Jim DeWilder with the Rosemarie Hocker Community Spirit Award. Claire What Has Created This Problem? was Rose Hocker’s legacy,” he said. McCarthy photo. More photos on Page 9. In brief, the amount of tax dollars returned “Our recipient’s contributions include: to the Sea Ranch area from Sonoma Past TSRA Board Member; Laid the Force; Served on TSR Volunteer Fire Golf Tournament; President and mem- County each year is less than the amount groundwork for TSRA to purchase the Department for 17 Years; President of ber of local Rotary; President of TSR needed to fund both the year-round CAL- Water Company and the Central TPZ; Horicon and Point Arena school boards; Flying Society; EMT for Coast Life FIRE staff and the VFD. In past decades Member of the View Preservation Task Sponsor and volunteer for Booster Club Support District for over 12 years and it was possible to cover all expenses and many more coastal community activi- also to build up reserves to use for major ties that are all better for his involve- capital expenses, such as purchasing re- ment.” placement firefighting apparatus. This is no longer the case, and reserve funds are Articles about Sea Ranch decreasing each year. History in this issue The primary source of funding for Sea In 2003, a Sea Ranch History Forum Ranch Fire is the property taxes paid was held in response to many requests. within our service area. Each year, 19.2% Four major areas were covered: Pre- of Proposition 13 tax funds from The Sea Sea Ranch (Susan Clark); Sea Ranch Rancharea are allocated specifically for Origins (Al Boeke); Early Settlers fire protection. However, due to a long and Volunteers (George Rathmell); and complex history of state and county Effects of the Coastal Act (Kathi legislation, less than 40% of those funds Gordon). In this and subsequent are actually allocated back for use locally. issues, in honor of the 50th Birthday As an example, in fiscal year 2012-13, Year, we will share the record of that $1.95 million was initially allocated for Forum as it appeared in the Winter “fire protection” but only $739,000 was 2003 issue. Look for articles with actually returned from the county for use “TSR History” in the heading. Kathi in The Sea Ranch fire service area. Gordon’s article will appear in the next issue of Soundings. page 14 PAGE 2 THE SEA RANCH SOUNDINGS FALL 2014 Sea Rancher Awarded Nobel Prize by Trish Miller and Melinda Miller-Klopfer breakthrough, the transplanting of to the wonders of human insulin genes into yeast cells pond scum!) His Randy Schekman may be able to cross now allows for 1/3 of the world’s human prized possession all ‘win a Nobel Prize’ off his bucket list, insulin supply to be produced by yeast through high school but he still hasn’t seen a whale from his secretion. but unused since home in The Sea Ranch. Like any good college, he likened scientist, however, he isn’t giving up, and Usually phone calls that come at 1:20 in it to “the teddy he and his wife of over 40 years, Nancy the morning are harbingers of doom or bear that collects Walls, hope to see one in the future, emergency, but Randy recalls his wife dust,” and thus it with more frequent visits to the coast waking and jubilantly shouting, “This now collects more than the events of the past year have is it!” upon hearing the telephone ring famous dust in its allowed. Though they’ve owned at TSR in the middle of the night last October permanent home in since 1991, their visit in August is the seventh. Apparently above-average IQs the hallowed halls of first since Prof. Schekman was awarded and access to the world’s preeminent Stockholm’s Nobel the 2013 Nobel Prize in Physiology or thinkers still can’t clarify international Museum. Medicine for his work in cell physiology time zones to those Nobel spokespersons and genetics. who make the congratulatory calls And life - and on Swedish time. Priorities firmly in accomplishments Randy, a warm and generous man, place, the first thing Randy did was to - don’t end with cheerfully discussed his research call his father, who had been hoping for the Nobel Prize. Nobel Prizewinner Randy Scheckman and his wife, Nancy Walls, relax in understandable terms, as he has just such a phone call for years. In addition to his at their Sea Ranch home. Photo by Trish Miller undoubtedly had to do numerous times ongoing research over the past year. In basic biological Stockholm in December might not top at Berkeley, Randy is Editor-In-Chief but if basic science is supported, and terms, the cells in our bodies produce one’s travel list – unless a Nobel Prize is of eLife, an online life sciences and funded, those discoveries will come. the proteins that create the chemistry to be received. Randy and Nancy found biomedicine journal. It was started He feels strongly that universities and of life, and his research focuses on their time in Stockholm last December by Randy and other scientists as an research institutions should do basic how particular protein molecules are “amazing and otherworldly.” Shuttled alternative to the powerful scientific science, and the private sector should transported out of, or are secreted by, everywhere in limousines, “treated like journals, which accept only a small handle the practical side. cells. Approximately 10% of cellular royalty,” it was evident that the entire fraction of submitted articles, and favor proteins have to be encapsulated in sac- country – from every media outlet to the ones with, in Randy’s word, “pizazz”. As for the future, he is hopeful that it like structures, or vesicles, prior to being average citizen – mobilizes around the He feels that this emphasis on “the wow holds answers to questions previously sent out of the cell to enable bodily Nobels. “Everywhere we went there factor” puts tremendous pressure on thought unanswerable. His sister died functions and processes in other cells of were people wanting [my] photo...” young scientists to make their research as a teenager from a then-incurable form the body. These special proteins include and laureates are besieged for their more impressive than it actually is. of leukemia. Today, however, there is a hormones, insulin, and antibodies; autographs, which are prized, collected, eLife, in stark contrast to these journals, cure. With the promise of more advances crucial substances whose creation and or sold. The whirlwind of media events is non-profit, researcher-driven, and in the field, his share of the Nobel prize secretion from the cells are essential for and speeches culminated in the Nobel open access, so that all of us – academic money was used to endow a chair at UC the body’s continued functioning. Prize banquet, at which Randy gave or administrative assistant – can read Berkeley for cancer research, in honor the Banquet Address for his group of about cutting-edge research. Believing of both his sister and his mother, who Starting in the mid-1970s at the laureates (he shared the award with two that no one person or entity should died in her sixties of metastatic breast University of California at Berkeley, others) to assembled real royalty and retain exclusive rights or access to cancer. he studied yeast - the common, malty honorees, “all dressed up in penguin science, he champions the mobility of spores found in the grocery store and suits.” information in the hopes of advancing The work, the science, and the persistence used by bakers the world over – that had our understanding of the world. continue, even when the researcher takes malfunctions in this secretory process, Part of the expectation of winning this the time to relax in his home in The Sea and proved that these malfunctions were prestigious award is to donate to the Along with the publishing pressure Ranch, a place he and his wife and two due to genetic defects. His research also Nobel Museum an item that reflects the being applied to young scientists, children (now a financier and musician) explained how different genes regulate laureate’s own interests. In a charming Randy also bemoans the additional came upon while “just driving by” and different aspects of the transport system; story of full-circle symmetry, Randy’s pressure they are under of having to found “intriguing.” he “mapped” the cell’s transport system. response to the requisite request was deliver funding proposals that focus on Finding that bread yeast transported to bequeath his first real microscope, practical things, e.g., drug discovery Intriguing: an apt word for a man who proteins using a process essentially purchased with money he saved from proposals. As he says, as a scientist, started with a toy microscope, moved identical to that of human cells, it mowing lawns when he was 12, an he’s not equipped to make practical on to bread yeast, and ended up with became possible for human proteins admitted “science nerd” even then. decisions that a pharmaceutical a Nobel Prize. And, fingers crossed, to be produced using conventional (This microscope replaced his toy company can make about drug a good number of impressive whale yeasts as a vehicle. In a biotechnology microscope, which first introduced him discoveries and what’s worth pursuing, sightings as well.

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North Coast Music Night Showcases Some of the Best Musicians in the Area

By: Carolyn André, When talking about “folk” artists he Communications, 50th Birthday Committee particularly likes he names, among others, Van Morrison, Eric Clapton, Don’t miss North Coast Music Night in and Jerry Garcia. honor of The Sea Ranch 50th Birthday. This potpourri of bluegrass, folk, jazz, Jim tells a funny story about Van bluegrass and classical music features Morrison. Or more specifically, about some of the best musicians on the Van Morrison’s mother. Jim was Coast, recruited by Jim Munger and playing at the historic Marshall Tavern Marghi Hagen. at Tomales Bay in the early 70’s. He was playing the 20th century American The event will be held on Saturday, folk song, “Goodnight, Irene,” which September 27th from 7-9pm at Del Mar Van Morrison recorded on his “Skiffle Center Hall. It is open to the public. Sessions” CD. At the end of the set There’s a lot of interest in this event, the tavern owner introduced Jim to so come early to get a seat. There are Van Morrison’s mother, who was in no reservations. the audience. “I like your version better,” she said. At least that’s what Jim still marvels over the music he Jim claims she said. And who among found upon moving here in 2008. us can disagree? “What I didn’t expect to find was a music community, but I met Marghi Come listen to a breadth of music Hagen and she introduced me to including folk, folk rock, jazz, others. We used to play at The Sea bluegrass and classical piano. Jim says, Ranch stables.” He was surprised and “There will be original compositions pleased to find all the music going on and music you know. Artists you’ve in Gualala and Pt. Arena. “This area seen, others that are new…” So come has a rich and low key music scene join your friends and neighbors and and some pretty fine musicians.” sample our North Coast Music. Jim Munger playing at an event in Stewarts Point. Photo by Esther Munger. Jim has teamed up with Marghi again Saturday, September 27 from 7-9pm to put together this array of music. Examples of musicians who will be Jim and Marghi will sing a song or at Del Mar Center Hall. The public He feels that the North Coast Music participating include Tim Mueller, two together. Jim plays both piano is welcome but seating is limited to Night is a way to introduce the rest of a popular local musician who plays and guitar and will be performing at approximately 140 seats and there us to what he has found here. “It’s an multiple instruments and in multiple least one original song, in addition to are no reservations, so arrive early. opportunity to share local music and groups along the Coast, singer- persuading us to sing along to some Doors open at 6:30pm. showcase folks, some of whom don’t songwriter Kacey Martin, and singer- classics. Jim calls his music “folk often play locally. I hope to share songwriter Eric Tamm, who also plays music”, but this is not your Mama’s awareness of what’s here and provide multiple instruments. There will also folk music. “It is about community. a public venue.” And Jim is hoping be some classical piano pieces and There’s an emotional nature to the that this will become an annual event. a choral group singing “Alshlosha.” songs and place-based value.” Try saying that several times!

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www.ActionNetwork.info Call 707 884-5413 for Information searanchrentals.com Beach Rentals Sea Ranch Vacation Homes 39200 South Highway One, Gualala CA 95445 707/884-4235 PAGE 4 THE SEA RANCH SOUNDINGS FALL 2014 A Community Coming Together TSR Hosts Horicon Tutoring Program by Jeanetta Jones Miller Students get the benefit of learning from and getting to know the wide range of I was at a social gathering last sum- tutors with their varied teaching styles mer when I first heard about Horicon and their diverse life and work experi- School’s tutoring program. In the med- ences to share. Last year’s tutors were ley of voices, I heard Justine Rosenthal’s Marilyn Alderson, Maria Bardini Per- lament to Tom Falk that she was having kins, Colby Bibb, Sally Campbell, Co- trouble getting volunteers to tutor. Her lette Coad, Ida Egli, Tom Falk, Charlie comment caught my attention because I Hitt, Judy Kohn, Robin Robbin, Jane had retired from teaching two years ear- Schuler Repp, Claudia Thromure, and lier and missed the classroom more than Steven Winningham. Beth Hoover, Da- I wanted to admit. I said, “Maybe I can vid Rubinoff, and Fran Sherman served help,” and joined their conversation. As as substitutes. Justine and Tom filled me in, I learned that she directs the tutoring program, and The students—mostly in grades two Tom is one of the tutors. through five when I started tutoring— are remarkably organized. The regular Tutors meet once a week, on Wednesday communication between Justine and or Thursday, with elementary students classroom teachers results in consistent who need support in language arts and practices that help students succeed. math. The focus of my teaching career They have binders for work in prog- From top to bottom, left to right: Sally Campbell, Colby Bibb, Alexandra Valencia Morales, Samanda was high school, but I had seen over and ress and resources, planners for record- & Yesenia Marquez, Sydney Aszklar, Natalia Valencia Morales, Jane Schuller Rep, Beth Hoover. All over again how important it is for kids ing assignments, and books they’ve photos by Justine Rosenthal. of all ages to know an adult who cares chosen from the school library. I have program has put me back in touch with bus to Del Mar, and Thursdays at Hori- enough about their success to spend time yet to work with a student who didn’t kids—their energy and their sweetness, con School in Annapolis, for all second with them. Justine invited me to observe know what the homework was. Justine their curiosity and their desire to be known. through eighth grade students who can a tutoring session and then decide if I encourages students and tutors to start The students understand that the program get picked up from school at 4:00. Vol- wanted to get involved. I visited on a with math as that tends to be the most is a “get to” not a “have to.” They earn the unteers are always needed, and teach- Thursday and liked what I saw so much challenging. I must confess my heart privilege of participation with their focus ing experience is not required. Justine that I signed on. was in my throat when I first encoun- and their courtesy to the tutors and to one says she is looking for people who like tered a fifth grader’s algebra homework. Young voices are rare at The Sea Ranch. another. The atmosphere at Del Mar Cen- working with kids, have a positive atti- ter and Horicon on a tutoring day is both tude, and are collaborative team players. It’s fun to hear the kids chatting and Fortunately, Justine had provided me lively and positive. Those who can’t commit to Wednesday laughing as they walk from the bus with an acronym to help me remember or Thursday on a regular basis can still stop to Del Mar Center. Justine gives the order in which the parts of an equa- This coming year, tutoring will be avail- get involved as substitutes. For more them juice boxes and granola bars and tion must be solved. She expects tutors able Wednesdays at Del Mar Center, for information contact Justine Rosenthal ten minutes to play before announcing to call on her when there are questions Sea Ranch students who catch the school at [email protected]. which tutor will be working with which rather than struggle on alone. She rou- student and where. While there are ben- tinely works with two or three students, efits to matching a student with the same keeps an eye on the whole group, and adult every week, Justine believes the responds to questions without batting an most beneficial option is to rotate tutors eye or losing her calm, reassuring de- through the roster of students, so each meanor. What seems to matter with the adult gets to know the students. math—all of the homework, really—is to encourage the student to articulate the nature of the task and make conscious use of problem solving strategies to get the job done. Toward the end of a ses- sion, those young voices pipe up again, reading aloud from their current book— From left to right, around the table: Jasmine or a loaner from Justine’s cache—and Garcia, Charlie Hitt, Colby Bibb, Alexandra talking about the book with the day’s Valencia Morales, Samanda Marquez, Marilyn tutor. Alderson, Sally Campbell, Yesenia Marquez. Colby Bibb working with Natalia Valencia Volunteering for the Horicon tutoring Morales.

Charlie Hitt working with Alejandro Velasquez, Claudia Thromure working with Alexandra Valencia Morales, doing an enrichment project offered by Maria Bardini Perkins.

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ANNA HALPRIN: TSR History A SCORE FOR BUILDING COMMUNITY Early Settlers and Volunteers Reprint from Winter 2003 SOUNDINGS

by George Rathmell (George Rathmell, noted author and Sea Rancher, graciously stepped in for Jer Skibbins who was temporarily incapacitated. Rathmell is the author of two books based on history, “Realms of Gold, the Colorful Writers of San Francisco from 1850 to 1950,” and “A Passport to Hell, the Mystery of Richard Realf.”) As a Sea Rancher for half of his life, Rathmell said he‘d seen a lot of changes from the developer’s beachhead to the current invasion. In the early days, Sea Ranch was not seen as a residential development, but as a second-home devel- opment because it was too remote, too hard to get to. There were no medical facilities, the local store had survival food at best, there was no drugstore, origi- nally no television, and no entertainment. “Unless you were a lumberjack or a fisherman, there was no work.” In spite of all the reasons not to live here, said Rathmell, a few hardheaded people decided they wanted to live here. So, they — working together — devel- oped a community. A lot of the community-building activities took place under the aegis of Oceanic, such as meetings at the Barn, followed by spaghetti feeds or wild-pig barbecues, hay-bale piano concerts in the Barn with Gunnar Johans- sen, tennis tournaments, kite days, etc. But little- by-little, the people who built here in the early days learned to provide for their own needs — physical and recreational. Rathmell told of the “Great Gualala River Run” in the early 70s. It consisted of people dressed up in costumes and floating in inner tubes from the Hot Spot down the Gualala River. “Sort of ‘blue-water rafting’ followed by considerable celebration.” Long-time Sea Rancher Anna Halprin, a visionary in challenging the conventions of modern dance, designed and led a “Movement Score for a Walk on the Beach.” This was based on a project Anna’s The Community Garden was another early volunteer project. Marion Gates and Sally Skibbins decided there should be a place off the Ranch, but adjacent to husband, Larry Halprin, and Charles Moore had devised to bring concentrated attention to the envi- it, where people could raise vegetables — particularly raspberries. “It’s one ronment during the early years of developing The Sea Ranch. big communal garden, where all the members share equally in the work and produce.” Anna has received worldwide recognition and honors for her outstanding contributions in choreogra- phy, teaching, and performance art. She and her daughter, Daria Halprin, founded the International In one of the first volunteer efforts, Bill Milligan gathered up square nails from Tamalpa Institute for Movement-Based Expressive Arts. the burned-out Ft. Ross site and sold them at the Lodge to raise money for Ft. Ross’ reconstruction. On Labor Day morning participants joined in a processional down the pathway and stairs to Ohlson The CC&Rs have volunteerism built into them, Rathmell observed. “We are Beach. There they explored the qualities of the site and worked with sand, driftwood, and rock to build self-governing. We have a Board of Directors. That means people have to vol- images that connect with the environment and celebrate their mutual presence in the place. Photo by unteer to run for the Board and if they win, they have to volunteer their time Jim Alinder. to serve.” As things became more complicated and the population grew, the Board formed standing committees to advise its Directors. “They do the grunt

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HenleysICO 10-29to11-19 1 12/6/04, 3:41 PM HenleysICO 10-29to11-19 HenleysICO 10-29to11-191 1 12/6/04, 3:41 PM 12/6/04, 3:41 PM HenleysICO 10-29to11-19 HenleysICO1 10-29to11-19 12/6/04,1 3:41 PM 12/6/04, 3:41 PM HenleysICO 10-29to11-19 1 HenleysICO 10-29to11-19 12/6/04, 3:411 PM 12/6/04, 3:41 PM HenleysICOHenleysICOHenleysICO 10-29to11-19 10-29to11-19 10-29to11-19 1 1 1 12/6/04,12/6/04,12/6/04, 3:41 3:41 3:41PM PM PM HenleysICO 10-29to11-19 1 12/6/04, 3:41 PM HenleysICOHenleysICO 10-29to11-19 10-29to11-19 1 1 12/6/04,12/6/04, 3:41 3:41 PM PM HenleysICO 10-29to11-19 1 12/6/04, 3:41 PM HenleysICO 10-29to11-19HenleysICO 10-29to11-19 1 1 12/6/04, 3:41 PM12/6/04, 3:41 PM HenleysICO 10-29to11-19 1 HenleysICO 10-29to11-1912/6/04, 3:41 PM 1 12/6/04, 3:41 PM Merry ChristmasMerryMerry Merry& Christmas Happy MerryChristmas Christmas New & Christmas Year!Happy & & Happy Happy New & Year!HappyNew New Year! Year! New Year! Merry Christmas &Merry MerryHappyMerryMerryMerry Christmas Christmas NewChristmas ChristmasChristmas Year! & & & &Happy& Happy Happy HappyHappy New New New NewNew Year! Year! Year! Year!Year! MerryMerryMerry MerryChristmas ChristmasChristmas Christmas & Happy && & HappyHappy HappyNew Year! NewNew New Year!Year! Year! Merry Christmas & Happy NewMerry Year! Christmas & Happy New Year! PAGE 6 THE SEA RANCH SOUNDINGS FALL 2014 The Sea Ranch 50th Birthday Bring the Family or Friends and Join in the 50th Birthday Activities This Fall Below is a list of all activities in honor of The Sea Ranch 50th Birthday during the three month period beginning at the very end of September. For more information on all events continue to go to www.tsra.org and click on the 50th Birthday Celebration logo. The site will be updated as plans are refined.

The Once and Future Sea Ranch: An Fall Native Plant Workshop, September October Architectural Forum October 25, 2014, 10am-noon North Coast Music Night, Celebrate Our Coast on the Screen, October 18, 10am-5pm Native Plant Demonstration Garden, September 27, 7-9pm October 5, 2-3:30pm Knipp-Stengel Barn, open to the public private Del Mar Center Hall, open to the Del Mar Center Hall, open to the public public The forum is currently full. If you have Learn from the experts on the Native Our local Stewardship Task Force for the reservations and do not plan to attend, Plant Committee what to plant and A very fun night of music that California Coastal National Monument or if you would like to be placed on the where. Join in the workshop and features local musicians, recruited invites you to sit back and enjoy images of waiting list, please send an email to that discussion on the importance of the for the evening by Jim Munger our coast and its wild visitors. See article effect to [email protected]. decision 50 years ago to mandate the use and Marghi Hagen. The event will on page 16 for more information of native plants at TSR, how successful feature a potpourri of folk, jazz, The 50th birthday year of The Sea it is today, and what it means moving bluegrass and classical music. TSR Classic Film Program, 1964-1965, Ranch provides the occasion for “The forward. October 8, 7:30-9:30pm Once and Future Sea Ranch,” an all-day There will be audience sing-alongs Knipp-Stengel Barn, Private public forum on Saturday, October 18, December with music you know, and other 2014 at the White Barn. The panel is Sea Ranch Mysteries: Little Known tunes, some original, that may not Relax with some freshly made popcorn designed to discuss how well TSR has Events and Sites be familiar to you. An appreciative and enjoy Dr. Strangelove, the Stanley fulfilled the vision of its founders and December 6, 10am-noon audience is welcome. There are no Kubrick-directed film released in 1964. the challenges and opportunities facing Del Mar Hall, public reserved seats and the hall only holds This is one of the iconic anti-war movies TSR now and in the future. A fun and fascinating history about 140. So come early. Doors made during the Vietnam era and stars the presentation on little known events open at 6:30pm. When the hall is very funny Moderator Jacquelynn Baas will and sites around The Sea Ranch to be full no one else will be admitted. For Peter Sellers and the very un-funny open the program by introducing one given by Archives Committee Member, more information see article on page George C. Scott, which is what makes him of our founding architects, Donlyn Harry Lindstrom. Using old maps and 3. so funny. Lyndon, who will provide an historical articles from old newspapers Harry will perspective. A panel of five eminent tell more of the story of pre-Sea Ranch architecture and landscape specialists history, centered on the newly-installed from outside TSR will assess the history Historic Markers, which have been so Rathmell…from page 5 and potential of The Sea Ranch concept: well received on our trails. San Francisco Bay Area architectural and work, report to the Board, and pray tractor and president of the Board, volun- urban histo++rian Mitchell Schwarzer; that the Board will listen to them.” In teered to do the job with volunteer labor. The presentation will be chock-full of addition to standing committees there “A crew of inexperienced and over-aged Architectural Record editor-in-chief interesting facts and suppositions when are task forces set up temporarily to volunteers rapidly — in 12 years — pro- Cathleen McGuigan; Los Angeles Harry offers his thoughts on questions deal with specific problems or proj- vided a 78,500 square-foot meeting place Times architecture critic Christopher like: Was there someone named One ects — all volunteers. Probably the that is a historical monument and the cen- Hawthorne; Linda Jewell, UC Berkeley Eyed Jack? Where did rumrunners land most important volunteer group on terpiece of The Sea Ranch.” Professor of Landscape Architecture and their cargo on The Sea Ranch? What is The Sea Ranch is the Volunteer Fire Urban Design; and architect and planner the significance of the red gates seen Department. “If it weren’t for them, A spin-off of that project was the restora- Will Bruder. the length of Sea Ranch on Highway we would have all burned down long tion of the century-old Del Mar School- 1? What did The Sea Ranch look like ago.” house done by volunteers under the direc- Thanks to The Sea Ranch Foundation, before it was The Sea Ranch? How did tion of Dick Soule. Rathmell declared one th The Sea Ranch 50 Birthday Committee the military use The Sea Ranch during But the largest and most ambitious of the best examples of volunteer effort to and private donors for their generous volunteer project was that of restoring be the Del Mar Ranch House Garden. “A World War II? support of this event. the Knipp-Stengel Barn. “When we thing of beauty and a joy for as long as the Submitted by the 50th Birthday were looking for a community center volunteers continue to work on it.” “What Committee. long ago, the Barn was considered. attracts us to this place is, of course, the But when we found out it was going natural beauty. But what keeps us here is to take more than a million dollars to the teamwork and fellowship of working bring it up to code for a meeting place, with other volunteers to enhance and main- the Board dropped it.” Nevertheless, tain the quality of life in this remarkable in 1989 Chris Beach, who was a con- place,” Rathmell concluded.

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F & R also posted in 1996 when it became apparent that human distur- additional signs at Tide- bance to harbor seals often occurred during pupping pool to clarify where time in April and May. With the cooperation of The visitors weren’t allowed Sea Ranch Board of Directors, two Rookeries were to walk along the bluff. established in Units 18 (Green Cove Rookery) and 24 The ab divers were of (Tidepool Rookery). Volunteers from the Ranch and little consequence, since surrounding communities were recruited to help cre- there were not any pups ate a safe environment for birthing mothers and their at Green Cove until late pups by being a presence in the area when visitors April. They stayed away were around so the animals could be free of human from Tidepool except in harassment and interference. the far channel to access the outlying rocks. Next Laura has been in the program for 16 years as a do- year we may want to start Harbor Seals at Tide Pool Beach. Photo by first year seal docent Bengt Lundberg. cent, and has also been a volunteer for The Marine later at Green Cove, al- Mammal Center through Anchor Bay Operations for though many volunteers don’t mind at all doing shifts seal most likely came from San Francisco Bay area many of those years. With her committee’s help, she watching other seal behaviors there. where there is iron oxide in the water that turns their updated program manuals, reserved rooms for meet- heads reddish. A seal with large tumors on its neck ings, organized training, purchased new docent vests, By the first week at Tidepool we had our first pup and sides was hauled out with the moms and pups, gave information on the program to the rental compa- appear. The next week there was very high surf, just but stayed with the group through tidal changes. And nies, recruited new volunteers, and set the schedules as the pupping was getting underway. Unfortunately, finally, the Sheriff Department’s helicopter cleared for each site. we watched several moms trying to revive or stay the Tidepool beach once flying low, looking for with dead pups. This was a behavior we hadn’t really someone or something. Other distractions like kites, This year’s Class of 2014 consisted of 18 new volun- witnessed in the past. I can only surmise that this bag pipes, squealing kids, etc. were handled by the teers, recruited by word of mouth, the New Members may have been a result of the high surf impact on the docents. Meeting, and the Volunteer Opportunities Meeting. newborns. “They were a fantastic group of individuals, who were Throughout the entire 2 months we had many visitors very enthusiastic,” says Laura. “It was a pleasure to Easter week arrived on the 20th, and birthing was in to both sites. People were generally very cooperative meet each and every one of them, and together with full swing. At Tidepool, 21 births were witnessed by about the signage and being quiet at the sites. Most 64 returning ‘veterans,’ 82 total volunteers signed up docents, and none at Green Cove, although pups were often, if they were in a bad place for the seals, they for shifts to cover the 2 months of birthing.” there later in the season. We had 1 death at Green didn’t realize what was going on, and were apologet- Cove, and 4 deaths at Tidepool. This is about normal ic and happy to go elsewhere to view the seals. Con- The program began on April 1st at both rookeries. with a 10% mortality rate of those pups we see. We frontations were few, and “thanks you’s” many from rescued 1 pup from Tidepool under the Marine Mam- our visitors. They really seemed to enjoy having mal Center’s direction. They instructed us to take docents there to inform them of what was happening. t e d s m i t h a picture of where the seal was, and advised us that a pick up could only be done with no other seals in The season ended on June 2 and the beaches were a r c h i t e c t the area at low tide. The pup was rescued and trans- reopened on June 9th as there were still nursing pups ported to TMMC, but died two weeks later during at Tidepool. “At Green Cove, we had done 64 shifts treatment. for 112.5 hours and at Tidepool we had done 159 a.i.a. shifts for 318 hours, for a total of 223 shifts for 430.5 p. o. b o x 2 1 5 Our high numbers for the two months were 150 adults hours,” says Laura, adding that she is looking for- l i n c o l n, c a 9 5 6 4 8 and 68 pups at Tidepool on April 27th and 42 adults ward to doing the job again next year. 9 1 6 / 6 4 5 - 6 1 2 5 and 10 pups at Green Cove on May 18th. Many other [email protected] moms and pups were witnessed hauled out up and “We are privileged to be able to witness such an amaz- www.tedsmitharchitectaia.com down the coast this year, particularly at Cormorant ing sight in nature as the births of these seals, and to Close pocket beach. feel we have a part in allowing them to remain wild and unaffected by our presence,” she says. “Hope- Architecture & Interior Design Some sightings worth mentioning: we saw a red fully, our coast will continue to provide us with these Bringing forty-plus years of architecture, design, headed seal again this year with a healthy pup. This spectacles of nature and we will, in return, protect it.” experience and professionalism to your project

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PAGE 8 THE SEA RANCH SOUNDINGS FALL 2014 Late Bloomers by Barbara Rice Cow clover (Trifolium wormskioldii) is also called Seaside Clover. The deep pink “What is a weed? A plant whose virtues to magenta, one-half inch flowers can be have not yet been discovered.” -- Ralph found in seeps at base of bluffs or in wet Waldo Emerson meadows. Like most clovers, this native is edible. Indigenous peoples steamed By the end of September, the meadows the rhizomes. are gold, the spring and summer blooms are past, and the rainy season is ahead. Cotton-Batting Plant (Gnaphalium stra- Sunny days with no fog and little wind minium) has small insignificant clusters draw us out onto the trails. What might of yellow disk flowers and the plant is we expect to see at this time of year? Dry covered with tiny white hairs. It is occa- Hooker’s Evening Primrose by Stan Shebs. Willowherb by Randy A. Nonenmacher. grass? Weeds? Some blooming plants sionally seen along the bluff trail, where continue into late autumn, and some you might also see Coast Goldenrod never stop blooming. A variety of wild (Solidago spathulata). Its cousin Cali- plants may be found in bloom as the dry fornia Goldenrod (Solidago velutina ssp season comes to a close, and many of californica) would more likely be found these “weeds” have been used for food in the meadows or hillside. All three are or medicine. native.

A stroll along the beach might reveal the In wet meadows and coastal scrub, rare yellow-flowering coast sand verbena look for the aromatic pinkish purple na- (Abronia latifolia) in early fall. Look- tives Chamisso’s Hedge Nettle (Stachys ing up from any beach or down from the chamissonis) and the more uncommon bluff, you might see a four foot tall Hook- Willowherb (Epilobium ciliatum ssp cil- er’s Evening Primrose (Oenothera elata iatum) in early fall. Hummingbirds love ssp hookerii) with its huge yellow flow- Hedge Nettle. Later you might see yel- ers, clinging to the steep rock, well out of low or white Coastal Tarweed and lav- Cow Clover by Eric in SF Stinging Nettle by Matt Lavin. the reach of deer. The flowers open late ender California Aster (Aster chilensis). afternoon, are fragrant and nocturnal. Wet meadows can sustain these native ing for dandelions – wine, greens, lemon- the riverbed or on gravel bars. Two na- species for a long bloom season. Tar- ade, coffee. This plant has a long bloom tive inedibles (for humans) are Turkey Another sand dweller that flowers late weed is so called because of the sticki- season in Sea Ranch meadows. Mullein (Croton setigerus) and Helio- is the non-native Horned Searocket with ness of the plant and the odor reminiscent trope (Heliotropum currasavicum), also its fleshy leaves and four pinkish purple of tar. Along shady riparian areas like the Salal called Quail Plant, or Monkey Tail. An- petals in the shape of a Maltese Cross. Trail, you might find some late bloom- other common name for Turkey mullein European White Watercress (Nasturtium ing Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica subsp. is Doveweed – its seeds attract doves and officinale) is often found at the base of We rarely see the “true” dandelion here, gracilis). The small flowers are incon- wild turkeys. Turkey mullein was called seeps along the bluff. Less common is spicuous, dangling in large clusters. Just Fishweed by indigenous peoples, who Brass Buttons (Cotula coronopifolia), a but we have the European “false” dande- lion, with the common name Cat’s Ears like Poison Oak, you really want to learn used it to paralyze fish so they might be species which originated in South Afri- how to identify this native plant! Young caught more easily. The hairy leaves ir- ca -- its button shaped sunny flowers are (Hypochaeris radicata). Edible raw or cooked, leaves can be used in salad or leaves may be used in recipes – Nettle ritate skin, so this is another look-don’t- also found at the base of bluff seeps. It Soup? Nettle Pesto? Care in handling touch plant. The uncommon Heliotrope’s prefers brackish, anoxic water. All three treated like spinach, and the taproots can be roasted. High in potassium and report- is a must. white flowers turn purple as they age, and of these are non-native, mildly invasive, are arranged in tightly coiled rows. and edible. edly less bitter than “true” dandelion, the Cat’s Ears can be used in any recipe call- Other late bloomers may be found along Page 9

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Late Bloomers…from Page 8 Many little opportunistic species bloom in Volunteer Celebration disturbed areas year round. Some might Left: Susie Gilley and Bengt Lundberg. call them weeds, and others would con- sider them food. Early settlers probably brought these for their gardens. Shep- herd’s Purse, White Watercress, Chick- weed, Sow Thistle are common here. They are not native, they are considered weeds, and they are edible. Shepherds Purse (Capsella bursa-pas- toris) from East Europe/Asia Minor has a pungent aroma and the seed pods are California Goldenrod by Stickpen. shaped like little triangular purses. The leaves are edible, milder when young and more piquant as they age. about its benefits in his famed “Naturalis historia” in 77 AD. Chickweed (Stellaria media) has a pretty Above: Bonnie Plakos, Kay Dryden, little white flower. It is sought out by birds Many of these wildflowers are identified for its nutrient dense seed. The leaves in Elaine Mahaffey’s book “Wildflow- Marti Campbell. are good in salad or can be cooked like ers of The Sea Ranch” (check Four-Eyed spinach. Usually Chickweed is found in Frog Bookstore). When dealing with Left: Jackie Gardener, Tom Falk, Rita shady disturbed sites. edible plants, the same rules apply as for Peck, Craig Tooley. edible mushrooms: don’t eat anything you Common Sow Thistle (Sonchus olera- cannot positively identify and know to be ceous) was likely an import used for swine safe. Use caution, do your homework, fodder. Young leaves are edible as salad find an expert, read about side effects of greens and older leaves can be boiled to any wild plant that your locavore soul remove bitterness. Yellow-flowered and might crave. There are some great web- red-stemmed, this year-round species sites like eattheweeds.com. Check out has a long history. Pliny the Elder wrote these foraging guidelines at www.wilded ible.com/foraging. If you are serious, get a book such as “Edible Wild Plants for Be- ginners: The Essential Edible Plants and Recipes to Get Started” by Althea Press in Berkeley. Please don’t eat the natives – many of them are important habitat plants Above: Anne and Mike Nevard, filling a role in our ecosystems. Instead, Ann Graf. help yourself to the “weeds”! All photos for this article have been taken from Creative Commons or Wikimedia Left: Frank Bell, Robert Scarola, Commons. Individual photos have in Marilyn Green, Drew McCalley. each case been attributed to the photog- rapher. Photos by Claire McCarthy.

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SRFoundation soundingscol2013.indd 1 2/24/13 4:48 PM PAGE 10 THE SEA RANCH SOUNDINGS FALL 2014 Venerable “Signature Hedgerows” Feeling Their Age by Nancy Scarola press are reaching the end of their life Now, 14 years later, the re- planted twenty hedgerows in order to priori- spans in these windy coastal condi- trees range in size from last year’s two tize ongoing work for the Hedgerow The Sea Ranch may be 50, but her Sig- tions. foot tall seedlings up to vigorous green Rehabilitation Plan as well as work nature Hedgerows are now approach- trees of thirty feet or more. The cycle for management of the replanted cy- ing 100! Back in 2001 members of the Plan- of management laid out by the 2001 press, now known as the Hedgerow ning Committee recognized a need Plan is now nearly complete. Re-Entry Plan. Our current subcom- The ranchers and farmers who plant- for preserving the legacy of the Sig- mittee includes members of the 2001 ed the cypress in the early 1900s kept nature Hedgerows and for conserving Over the years, however, changes in group as well as new members, staff them topped to form windbreaks and these iconic features of The Sea Ranch the condition of the original hedge- members, a forester, a horticulturalist, hedges to protect their animals and landscape for future generations. The rows as well as the replanted replace- representatives of the Planning, Com- crops. The founding fathers of The 2001 Signature Hedgerow Rehabili- ment trees require us to develop addi- mons Landscape and Trails Commit- Sea Ranch, by contrast, allowed them tation Plan (available on the TSRA tional plans for carrying on the work tees, a member of the Biotic Resources to grow into the majestic double rowed website) surveyed the hedgerows and of maintaining and managing the Sig- Subcommittee, and a representative of columns that we have enjoyed for five developed a priority list for removing nature Hedgerows. the Board subcommittee on Vegetation decades. But we are losing many of or pruning back one hedgerow per year Management. In addition to field sur- these beautiful trees now. Brittle limbs and then replanting cypress seedlings The original trees in many locations veys, recommendations from the CLC are broken by the winds or hang in in double rows to eventually replace are losing their green canopy, becom- Area Studies and the 2013 Report on hazardous formations. There is visual the original trees. The first Hedgerow ing predominately snags, dropping in- Vegetation by Joe McBride are being evidence that many of our original cy- Subcommittee had a long term vision. creasing numbers of branches, build- reviewed. ing up thatch, and creating ground debris. Removal of the remaining Our goals are to document the history original trees is still a priority. At the and current conditions of each hedge- same time, while the replanted trees row, to evaluate the effectiveness of are thriving for the most part, plans are tree care methods to date, to analyze needed for their ongoing care. Where the alternatives for ongoing mainte- the replants are being shaded out by nance and management, to study costs, original trees or by secondary growth, and to propose a schedule for the next the replants are dying back from lack decade. of light. The little trees needed protec- tion from the winds to get established, More articles and a presentation for the but as they reach 15 feet tall, they need community are being planned for the exposure to the winds in order to de- fall in order to share our findings and velop strength in their roots and trunks. receive member ideas. A final report will then be provided for the Board of During 2014, the current Planning Directors, and with their approval, the Committee Hedgerow Subcommit- Hedgerow program for the next decade tee has been surveying each of the will go forward.

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The Sea Ranch’s Signature Hedgerows are nearing the century mark. Photo by Robert Scarola.

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TSR History First thing, Boeke went to Santa Rosa to meet the coun- ed that was possibly an advantage. In fact, a positive ty supervisor. When Boeke got there, the supervisor sales program selling the qualities of the ranch would SEA RANCH ORIGINS had assembled the whole planning, engineering, public attract the kind of people who would become emo- Reprint from Winter 2003 SOUNDINGS works staff, and four people from the state. He asked, tionally involved with the land and would be perfect by Al Boeke “What is it you want to do with Ed’s ranch?” Boeke candidates for a self- governing private community. explained his concept of a quiet, meditative community Former Vice President for Community Planning and and that he wasn’t interested in building a resort. Because of the narrowness of the ocean terrace, the Development for Oceanic Properties, Inc, architect Al highway had to be the collector and stub-outs for local Boeke described how he happened upon the Del Mar At the end of Boeke’s presentation, the supervisor neighborhoods. Their idea was to maintain a green site Ranch and persuaded Oceanic to buy it and develop it asked the planning director for comments. He declared, that would dominate modest man-made structures. as The Sea Ranch. He also told of the planning that went “We’ll have to have a dirt road from the highway to the (Boeke repeated the word “modest.”) Advertising into the creation of The Sea Ranch. Oceanic Properties bluff a quarter- to a half-mile on center for the whole 10 and sales would be aimed at the schoolteacher, artist, Inc., later to become Oceanic California Inc. (OCI), was miles. At the end of which would be a turnaround, trash the author, the builder and other just plain folks who a wholly owned subsidiary of the parent company Cas- barrel and a Porta Potti. He called it a “parklet.” Boeke could perceive the wonders of the site and understand tle and Cooke. said, “That’s 20 parklets! We can’t live with that — I’m the opportunity for local voluntary stewardship and out of here!” local control. It was agreed to devote 50 percent of the In 1963, Boeke was in an airplane flying around the Bay land to Commons, and establish an undivided interest Area looking for a several thousand-acre new town site The supervisor asked the state people, “Why are you for all members without property-line fences, in order and frustrated in not finding anything that met the re- guys here?” They said they wanted to acquire the land. to respect the rural site and evolving community. quirements. The third morning the real estate agent/pilot The supervisor asked them if they had the money. They told him of a new listing of 10 miles on the ocean in said no. The supervisor said to Boeke, “I like what you At the end of the year, the planning group presented Sonoma County. Boeke resisted, saying he was look- are talking about.” He told the planning director, “I’m to Oceanic the viability of a preliminary plan and the ing for a site for first homes, but the pilot said “I’m not going to go with Boeke.” concept that was to become The Sea Ranch. Oceanic charging you for this flight, let’s take a look at it.” Once Properties, Inc. and its parent company Castle and he saw it, Boeke was so impressed he went back to Ho- Boeke returned to the Del Mar Ranch and talked to Cooke both agreed to take the developer risk role and nolulu and convinced Oceanic’s Board of Directors they Ed Ohlson who said, “I’m eager to sell it to you, but purchased the land over seven years. should option the property for a one-year period to study I only want to sell it if you will do something I can be the feasibility of developing a second-home community. proud of.” Boeke interviewed consultants, including Oceanic created an association of members for gov- the names of architects recommended by Larry Halprin. ernance, and established a Design Committee with Returning to the ranch, Boeke walked the property for A baker’s dozen of impressed and excited consultants viable member-helpful practices. “The architects five days — only the ocean terrace, because access to came to the Ranch to test the viability of the 5,200 acres among us were so excited they could hardly wait to everything across the highway was blocked 10 to 12- for development by Oceanic. Each had his or her own get to the drawing board and find appropriate contex- feet deep by brush and forest debris. Stripped by 3,000 assignment and they met every three or four weeks for tual design solutions.” Oceanic hired a professional sheep, dry grass was a quarter of an inch high, the bluff the next year, at various times throwing everything on Association staff and subsidized costs until the Asso- edge was badly eroded, and small mountains of wind- the table that had to do with building a community: ge- ciation became viable. The CC&Rs were created for blown sand piled up around the ends of the cypress ology, architecture, landscape, sales, public relations, the members as protections for and from each other, hedgerows. The hedgerows themselves were beautiful, economics, the market, etc. avoiding negative dos and don’ts — a “community mature, 40-50 feet high, absolutely lush, dense, green constitution.” Oceanic avoided putting anything in and reaching all the way to the ground. Here was a 5,200-acre site three-and-a- half hours from the CC&Rs having to do with the future community, the city and two hours from suburbia. The 5,100 acres as they felt that was the job of the members as the As- It was spring and the wild irises were in full blue-pur- would have visual identity and ownership control. It sociation evolved. ple bloom. Boeke remarked on their beauty and asked was naturally beautiful and hardy but not harsh, readily Ed Ohlson if they ever covered the ground. Ohlson adaptable to new use. Old-timers confirmed the rumor A sigh went up from the audience as Boeke described said, “The damn things keep the grass from growing, of a “Banana Belt” climate. The river promised domes- lot prices, which began at $6,000; two-bedroom con- I pour oil on them and I burn them.” At that, the two tic water. The forests had to be thinned and treated for dos were $25,000, three-bedroom condos and five men looked at each other and realized they were coming insects to avoid potential fires. Sheep were immediately ocean-point lots were $35,000. The top price was from different places. They both laughed. removed to allow regeneration of the landscape and $10,000 for the remaining lots. Publicity just boomed wildlife on the ocean terrace. The planners intended to and sales were far beyond their imagination. Sea The Ranch enjoyed a southwest prospect that invited keep the scattered historic buildings that enriched the Ranch was healthy and growing. more sun than fog, the soils perked inches of rain in a site and use them sympathetically. few hours. There was a natural ocean- river border at Then in 1972, the coastal revolution began. Devel- the north end, and a warm sunny river valley to the east The existing small town of Gualala would help provide opment at Sea Ranch was virtually shut down. Left where the San Andreas Fault parallels the shore and daily services and contribute to the opportunity to cre- behind were a multitude of other opportunities that dives into the ocean. “I became enchanted and that’s not ate community. The planners found the site ideal for the didn’t happen. “We were stuck with only The Sea too much of an exaggeration,” said Boeke. private, quiet, meditative, non-resort they intended. Its Ranch,” said Boeke, “it is, however, still the best remoteness at first seemed a problem, but they conclud- place there is to live.”

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And stiffen in the glaring sun and wind What miracles await by Susan Clark From year to year Even if it seems Picture The Sea Ranch at the turn of the Through June and July of 1912, the Peel off youthful layers and expose Age is age and the ravages of time last century: “After 60 years of intensive Russians planted peas, potatoes, beets, His inlaid bones, a skeleton of strength (As it drumbeat marches on to its own ranching and several decades of logging, carrots, watermelon and hay. They used Now standing upright, though tipping end) the property was overgrazed — there steam tractors and whenever they ran out some degrees Will have its way… wasn’t a green stick that stuck up out of of steam, they would just pull up a fence With ivy pull, and holed by nesting birds the ground anywhere. Hedgerows hadn’t post and throw it into the burner. Many of And weakened by beak search for bee- Now I’m on a daily careful watch been planted yet and the wind whipped the fences that had been part of the Del tle food… For any sign that one new bud will burst fiercely through the Ranch. The little Mar Ranch were burned by the Russians, On any ancient limb about to break farmhouse that stood on the hill above plus some of the buildings at Black Point. Knipp-Stengel Barn had a tenant because And now I wonder just how long he’ll For sacred confirmation of how hope The Russians ordered two more steam last Reminds us that despair is a mistake. Knipp and Stengel had sold the Ranch in 1903.” tractors and the freight was delivered to In the face of life’s persistent wearing Point Arena. As three young men, one down Copyright © 2013 Robert Scarola So Susan Clark, Sea Ranch’s architectural of whom was Nicholas Podzakoff, were To his last stage historian, described the Ranch at a Forum bringing the tractors back, they missed (Where simply being takes enormous about the history of The Sea Ranch the turn at Schooner Gulch and Podzakoff will) on September 6. An environmental was killed. The last Del Mar Ranch And falling to a bone pile gives relief… consultant and design consultant to owner, the late Ed Ohlson, told Clark that Then a splintered layer peeled quickly architects, Clark is chair of the Sonoma Podzakoff was buried on the ranch, his free County Landmarks Commission on grave marked by a circle of stones. With which she has served for the past eight some effort, Clark was able to locate and Exposing even more of his weak core photograph the stones. And I thought it the beginning of the years. Her Master’s thesis was on the history of the Del Mar Ranch from 1845 end to 1965. The Russians built new houses and This evening storm being all that it converted the Del Mar Saloon into a would take In 1898, Bender Brothers built the mill at schoolhouse. Sonoma County sent out To send him loudly crashing to the Del Mar and a little settlement began to the Grays, a husband and wife team earth… grow around the mill. The brothers were who spoke Russian and English. They able to purchase the 5000-acre ranch in taught 19 children during the day, and the But morning comes, he lifts his tired 1903, but as soon as they bought it they adults and 13 children in the evening. By arms went bankrupt. All the timber around December of 1912, the colony had grown the ranch had already been cut. The to about 250 people and the Russians As if he plans on waving them around began looking for land they could own. Believes green shoots will spring out at population at Del Mar had risen to 500 between 1900 and 1910 but it dwindled the tips as people gradually moved away and They had no experience in knowing what And he will know once more the soft abandoned their houses. The mill land should cost, or in dealing with an caress continued to operate until 1910 when it unscrupulous person like Frick. They Of breeze and butterfly, and robin nest… burned. bought the property for $250,000 plus two mortgages Frick had taken out on At the end of 1911, a second wave of the property while the Russians were Russians immigrated to California. (The growing crops on it. The price was six first came in 1905 and another came times the assessed value on the property. in 1912.) The leader of this group of Payments were so high no money was Russian Baptists was Emile Noshkin. left for subsistence. The Russians left Their route from Siberia took them to the ranch in September 1913, leaving all Japan where Mrs. Noshkin gave birth to their machinery and their crops behind. Photo by Robert Scarola. their 14th child. A shrewd San Franciscan After they left, the property went into entrepreneur named Walter Frick read a foreclosure and Frick bought it at auction story about the Russians printed in the in 1913.

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Sounding Board is an op-ed feature intended to give voice to thoughtful opinion on issues of importance Sounding to Sea Ranchers. Submissions to Sounding Board of 800 words or less should be made to the editor or [email protected]. Soundings invites opinion on all sides of the issues. Articles submitted for Sounding Board should be fact-based, concise and constructive. They express the opinion of Board the writer only and not that of Soundings or The Sea Ranch Association or its Board of Directors.

lution. On the North Coast the main pollution prob- The Future of Abalone lem is run-off from farming and logging activities. Although there are laws to control these operations, Diving in California there are many aspects of ocean pollution that are not by Jack Likins completely understood or well controlled. As recently as 1997, almost the entire California Recommended Solutions Coast and the Channel Islands were fished for aba- The DFW has already recommended that the red aba- lone. How did we get to the point where today less lone (the only fishable species) in Northern Califor- than 15% of the coast is available for abalone diving nia be removed from the ARMP and put into a Fisher- and more areas are being closed and limits reduced ies Management Plan (FMP). What this means is that every year? What can be done to stop the closures management and catch limits will be determined by and, at the same time, sustain the fishery? actual catches, rather than very expensive and time The Abalone Recovery and Management Plan consuming sea floor density surveys. (ARMP) Because of the highly variable diving pressure from In 1997 after long and contentious arbitrations among site to site and the natural density range of red aba- commercial fishermen, recreational fishermen, envi- lones from south to north, it is recommended that the ronmental groups and the Department of Fish and DFW also take into account a site specific or regional Wildlife (DFW), the Fish and Game Commission Ab diving is a family affair at TSR. “The Diving Walton’s” from approach. For the past several years the DFW have voted to close the entire commercial and recreational left, Grandma Susan, Son Lon, Grandson Luke, Granddaughter been collecting actual catch data from 50+ abalone abalone fisheries south of San Francisco, while con- Natalie, and Granddad Lee after their dive at Pebble Beach. Photo report card sites on the North Coast. I suggest using tinuing to allow a free-diving recreational fishery by Jack Likins. the available information to manage the abalone fish- north of San Francisco. Although the plan may be a ery on a site specific or regional basis rather than the useful tool for recovering the southern abalone fish- current 8 index sites used to manage the entire fish- ery, it is not good for managing the existing fishery ery which has created numerous cottage industries. ery. Management by region would allow individual in Northern California. The plan requires abalone Many people, in addition to fishermen, benefit from a sites or regions to be opened, closed and limit con- counts which are very expensive and time-consum- sustainable abalone fishery. trolled on a more timely basis. Those heavily dived ing because they must be done by divers working on Currently, otters are relegated to California’s Central public access sites could have lower limits without the sea floor. These methods make response times Coast, mostly from Monterey to Point Conception. having to close them completely. If academic and long and they do not collect information in the much Otters consume 25% to 35% of their body weight ev- environmental groups would support this action, they larger areas outside of the designated 8 index sites. ery day eating shellfish. If they are allowed to expand could fund and conduct density surveys to supple- The Marine Life Protection Act (MLPA) their area, they will not only ruin the abalone fishery, ment the catch data, insuring that abalone fisheries Between 2007 and 2012, the Marine Life Protection but they will also take their tolls on the clam, urchin, remain healthy. Act was implemented. This law increased the area crab and lobster fisheries statewide. Abalone Fishermen’s Representation of State Marine Protected Areas (restricted fishing Otters are relatives of weasels and should be treated We as abalone fishermen have a legislated direct areas) from about 1% of ocean waters to over 16%. like the rodents that they are and not allowed to ex- voice in the abalone fishery management through the The MLPA, although well intentioned, will have a pand uncontrolled where they will negatively impact Recreational Abalone Advisory Committee (RAAC). negative impact on the abalone fishery by forcing the ecologically sensitive and well-managed North It is disturbing that this committee has not published abalone fishermen into fewer, already over-fished -ar and South Coasts. Otters are cute, making them a notes for the last 4 years as required by their own eas without fishing restrictions. When you combine favorite of marine mammal groups, but they are ex- “standing rules”. Furthermore, there is a member these closures with the overall lack of public coastal tremely destructive. The questions are, where do we who supposedly represents the North Coast but has access, there is very little fishable area available to stop otter expansion and, do we want to give our fish- not attended a meeting for the last 5 years. the abalone fishing public. A combination of restric- eries to otters rather than manage them for people to If the RAAC will fulfill its responsibilities of rep- tions created by the MLPA and management using enjoy and fish? resentation and communication then we, as divers, the ARMP will cause public access areas to be seri- Disease have a means to become educated and give input to ally closed to abalone fishing until the entire fishery A major factor in the demise of the southern abalone the DFW about our fishery. With 40,000 abalone re- is eventually closed. fishery was a virus called withering foot syndrome. port cards sold each year, we have a large and valu- Sea Otters The good news is that even though some red abalo- able resource that can be used to help manage our It is well known that we have an artificial abalone nes have been found on the North Coast with the syn- fishery. Let the RAAC and the DFW know what you fishery on the North Coast because the otters were drome, it doesn’t seem to spread in colder water. At think and what you are seeing out there when you long ago hunted to near extinction. For the last 100 this point scientists don’t know for sure what causes pick and dive. If we want a future for abalone fishing years humans have replaced the more efficient hunt- the syndrome, but a good guess is pollution. we need to understand the issues and to speak up for ing otters as the abalones’ main predator, allowing Pollution our passion. abalones to grow larger in size and increase their There is a disconnect between the Department of Fish For more information contact Jack Likins at numbers. Because of this, California’s North Coast and Wildlife (DFW) and the State Water Resource [email protected] has developed into a unique and iconic abalone fish- Board when it comes to responsibility for ocean pol-

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Fire funding…from page 1 • Local control over funding choices and department How Tax Funds For Fire operations. Protection Are Distributed Total expenses for Sea Ranch Fire were $766,000, leav- Cons: ing a shortfall of about $27,000. Expenses included $715,000 for the CALFIRE contract, $26,000 for lease • Requires more local management and administration. payment on Engine 4485, and $25,000 for TSRVFD operational expenses [Note: VFD members receive no • District formation process will require a great deal of financial compensation). effort. In 2005-06, the “total fund balance” for the Sea Ranch • Negotiating a tax exchange agreement with the coun- Fire Service area was $540,553. At the end of 2012-13 ty to insure sufficient tax revenue for the district might it was $337,002. This downward trend has occurred for be difficult. some years, and is not likely to change. • Formation costs could be substantial (very rough es- The history of the current tax allocation is too long and timate of $65,000). detailed to do justice to in this article, but a full history It Isn’t All About Money can be found on the tsrvfd.org website, under “Gover- nance and Tax History”. The short story is that state and Besides the serious financial issues already outlined, local legislation, starting with Proposition 13 in 1978 there are equally important issues for Sea Ranch regard- and continuing through the creation of County Service ing local control, return on investment with CSA 40, Area 40 (CSA 40) in 1993, redistributed most of the and oversight and cost issues. CSA 40 provides train- funds originally allocated for the Sea Ranch area to the ing to many of the rural Volunteer Fire Companies, but “Educational Revenue Augmentation Fund” (ERAF) 19.2% of Proposition 13 tax funds collected in The Sea Ranch TSRVFD only gets 3 or 4 per year; the bulk of our train- area are allocated specifically for fire protection, but only 40% and to CSA 40. ing is provided by our CALFIRE team. CALFIRE and their supporting Battalion Chief provide the operational of those funds are distributed for local use. What Can Be Done? support that is not practical for CSA 40 to deliver to our TSRVFD has been looking at a number of possible ac- area because of the physical realities of time and ge- seeking annexation of areas currently included in CSA tions to solve the funding problem. ography. Our expenditures must go through a bureau- 40. The Board of Supervisors (BOS) is starting a ma- cratic county purchasing process without the flexibility jor analysis and overhaul of fire services in the county. • Negotiate with the Sonoma County Board of Su- and savings that local control would allow. It has created an ad hoc committee to evaluate county pervisors to reduce the amount of local tax funds fire services and is conducting an all-county “Munici- diverted to CSA 40 overhead. Any negotiated Remote coastal residents have discovered that it often pal Services Review” of fire services which will result changes would be subject to future revisions by the takes local control to deliver both the quality and cost in changes to fire protection in CSA 40. Rather than wait county. savings only local management can provide. The estab- for people sitting in distant offices to decide our fate, we lishment of the Coast Life Support District (CLSD) in want to be involved in the process and have control over • Create a voter-approved special tax for additional 1986 is one excellent example; the latest is TSRA’s Fi- our destiny. fire protection funding. TSRVFD considers this an ber To The Home initiative where yet another dedicated option of last resort. group of residents have developed a local solution. TSRVFD has notified the Local Agency Formation Commission (LAFCO) that we intend to pursue district • Reduce the $912,000 in funds sent to ERAF. Surrounded by solvent and efficiently run fire districts formation, and has hired a consultant, Brian Elliot, to as- Changing the level of ERAF funding appears to re- in Timber Cove, Gualala and Point Arena, The Sea sist with that process. quire state legislation. Pursuing this option would Ranch stands out as the only north coast community not likely have considerable legal expenses with a low in control of their own destiny (and money). We have started raising community awareness and par- probability of success. ticipation with some small community meetings, the Based on both the financial facts of the matter and the July TSR Forum on the issue, and now this article. We • Another option is to form a Fire Protection District research the VFD Board has performed so far, we be- are forming a working group of interested community (FPD) which would keep all tax dollars allocated lieve a serious pursuit of establishing our own district members to help investigate issues and move forward. for fire protection (except what is lost to ERAF) is the best long term solution to controlling both our fi- Later this year we plan to perform a “sentiment survey” here in the local area and put management of funds nances and the quality of service. Despite the challenges required by LAFCO to assess the community’s support and operations in local hands. Formation of an FPD of forming a district, the risks for not doing so are even for district formation. would not be simple and there are pros and cons, greater. It will take the process of attempting to form summarized below: the district to answer some of the questions, and see What Can You Do? where both LAFCO and the Sonoma County Supervi- There are pros and cons involved in establishing a Fire sors stand. There are several ways that you can help. Participate Protection District. in the sentiment survey. Consider joining the work- The Current Situation ing group, or serving on the TSRVFD board. Visit the Pros: TSRVFD website, www.tsrvfd.org, for news and up- We should be clear that there is no need to panic. So- dates. If you have questions, would like to actively help • Existing tax allocation supports existing service level noma County is obligated to provide fire protection, with the project, or if you would like to be on an email plus apparatus replacement, and possible enhancement TSRVFD is dedicated to their mission and is not going list to receive updates, please email us at info@tsrvfd. of services in the future. anywhere. However, long-term funding for our CAL- org. FIRE contract is clearly at risk. Several fire districts are • No longer “paying twice” for some services. No loss of funds to CSA 40 overhead.

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Mehls Electric Inc Lic # 725684 (707) 884-3682 • Residential - Commercial Elizabeth Kreck, Realtor • Audio/Visual/Home Automation • Emergency Service Kennedy & Associates • Generator Installation & Servicing 707-884-9000 ext. 14 [email protected] Serving the Coast Since 1971 Darin Iversen Barbara Mehl BRE#01493130 FALL 2014 THE SEA RANCH SOUNDINGS PAGE 15

Would you like to trade houses? Do you need a house/pet sitter? Are Display advertising space is also available on a first come you available to "sit" a Sea Ranch house? Do you have something basis, limited to camera-ready ads in PDFs in seven sizes, Classified you want to sell? Or buy? Or rent? Use the Classified Ad section starting with business card size ad 3 3/8" x 2". Costs begin to match your needs with someone's wants. Classified advertising at $33.00 for the business card size. If you are interested, rates: 30 cents a word, $5.00 minimum. Mail your ad, clearly please send for a space request sheet. written with payment enclosed, to TSRA, Box 16, TSR, CA 95497, ads attention: The Sea Ranch Soundings. Make check payable to TSRA. Advertising deadline November 15, 2014 for the Winter issue NEXT EDITORIAL DEADLINE: targeted for mailing early December. November 15, 2014 SOUNDINGS welcomes all submissions CIVIL ENGINEERS & LAND FURNITURE AND KITCHEN CABINET LIGHT OF THE COAST of articles by TSRA members. The articles SURVEYORS. Dimensions 4 Engineering, STRIPPING AND REFINISHING. CENTER FOR SPIRITUAL LIVING should be 500 to 750 words or less, signed Inc. (707) 785-2293. Over 30 years experience, Local references (FORMERLY UCRS) by the author, and submitted electronically, Appointments available Tuesdays at - Call Bob Shimon (707) 884-4126 Meets on Sunday at 11:00 a.m. at preferablly as a Word document or may be The Sea Ranch or in Santa Rosa at 2952 33801 S. Hwy. One, Gualala typewritten, double spaced. Mendocino Avenue M-F 8:00-5:00 (one mile north of Anchor Bay) The SOUNDINGS Editor will determine Topographic Maps, Grading and SAVE THE DATE Certified Classes through Practitioner Drainage Plans, Perc Tests, and Septic level in Science of Mind available. whether the articles are suitable and SAVE THE LIGHT relevant to Sea Ranch membership, and System Plans. Officiating at Memorials and Weddings, whether there is space for their publication. Point Arena Lighthouse Annual Golf REV. ALYCE SODEN, M.S., R.Sc.F. Because of space limitations and when FINE YARN, FABRIC, CRAFTS, ART Tournament/Auction Fundraiser Call for information (707) 884-3631 necessary, articles will be subject to editing. SUPPLIES, AND HANDMADE GIFTS September 13, 2014 [email protected] ALL ARTICLES ARE WELCOME, AT THE LOFT in the Sundstrom Mall, The Sea Ranch Golf Links LARGE LOT FOR SALE subject to the above conditions. If you have Gualala.707-884-4424. Open Daily. www.pointarenalighthouse.com questions, please call SOUNDINGS Editor IN BAYSHORE RETIREMENT MASSAGE THERAPY: Relax and renew 707.882.2809/ 1-877-725-4448 COMMUNITY, Oregon Mid-Coast . Claire McCarthy. (She is delighted when Special oversize flat lot on Alsea people volunteer!) with Swedish, Deep Tissue, Hot Stone, CranioSacral, Jin Shin Jyutsu or a Facial. Bay, Waldport, Oregon. 60X120X123, House calls available. Healing Arts and ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS: backs up to canal. Facilities include pool, THE SEA RANCH SOUNDINGS Massage Center. Cypress Village, Gualala, call 884-1401 for location, day and time of tennis courts, clubhouse, classes. Ten A quarterly publication for TSRA members 707-884-4800. Sea Ranch meeting. minutes from beach and from Yachats, a beautiful coastal town featured in Published in WINDOW CLEANING Let CLEAR Sunset Magazine. See mls listing #14- Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter TOO MUCH FAMILY AND NOT INTENTIONS Window Cleaning Service 167 at www.bayshore-realty.com. Sharon ENOUGH HOUSE? -- Ask Rams Head improve your view today! Local, insured. Rotty realtor: 541-961-6661. $69,900. Realty about off-season specials. Call 888-3832 (707) 884-1427 or 1-800-785-3455 for conditions and reservations. Editor: Claire McCarthy lucy*s collective antiques and art Reporters/Contributors: got a comment? OTIS ESTATE SERVICES Highway 1 Gualala Carolyn André, Susan Clark, Laura Send articles, questions and Cortright, Diane Hichwa, Jack Likins, Over 30 years of experience across from SeaCliff Center Claire McCarthy, Dan McMahan, Jeanetta Specializing in Sea Ranch Monday - Saturday story ideas to: Jones Miller, Melinda Miller-Klopfer, Trish Complete home and estate services 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. Miller, Bonnie Plakos, George Rathmell, Cyndi 707-785-3538 closed Sunday [email protected] Barbara Rice, Nancy Scarola, Robert email: [email protected] Scarola, The Sea Ranch 50th Birthday Committee. Photographers: Jim Alinder, Jack Likins, Bengt Lundberg, Claire McCarthy, Trish Miller, Esther MOW EARLY . . . Munger, Justine Rosenthal, Robert Scarola, Craig Tooley (www.ruffimage.com) MOW OFTEN. . . MADE Graphics/Layout: Rozann Grunig LOCAL Maximize your home’s Mendonoma Coast chances of surviving Address Correspondence to: wildfire - The Sea Ranch SOUNDINGS Maintain your 30’ Post Office Box 16 The Sea Ranch, CA 95497 clearance...NOW !

LIFORN CA IA ENT of FO or [email protected] TM RE A R R E PROTE S E A A IR CT T P F I R S N E d O Y D n N a E C H H

EAT T C FORESTRY Telephone Calls to: D F ® LOCAL FIRE Claire McCarthy 884-3444 F Mendonoma Coast IR T E DEP Contact by e-mail: “PARTNERS IN FIRE SAFETY & SUPRESSION” [email protected] Published by THE SEA RANCH ASSOCIATION SHOP Post Office Box 16 LOCAL The Sea Ranch, California 95497-0016 Mendonoma Coast Copyright © 2014 THE SEA RANCH SOUNDINGS All Rights Reserved

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior, written permission of the editor, excepting the brief quotes used in connection with reviews written specifically for inclusion in a newspaper or magazine. Just Released New Real Estate Book Since 1986 Licensed and Insured Featuring The Sea Ranch Contractor Lic. 488313 Local Einsteins Sonoma County is considered the definitive resource for home- seller and home-buyers to get “insider information” from local experts before making Mitchell Kirby one of the biggest financial decisions of their life. Local Real Estate Brokers Cindy Kennedy and Pat 884-3416 Neth of Kennedy & Associates have authored the Chapter on The Sea Ranch. The book features specific insights on pricing, negotiating strategies, schools, financing and much more. Specializing in Re-siding & Roofing at The Sea Ranch Cindy and Pat will be most happy to include a copy of their new book when they prepare - Now Offering - a Comparative Market Analysis for a prospective home seller on The Sea Ranch. If you are considering a sale of Scheduled Roof & Sheet Metal your home, please call Cindy and Pat, Maintenance Program you’ll be glad you did! ...... Cindy Kennedy, CRS, SRES • Roof Inspection 707-884-9000, ext 11 CalBRE #00522478 • Roof and Gutter Cleaning KENNEDY Pat Neth, CRS, SRES &ASSOCIATES 707-884-9000, ext 13 • Sheet Metal Painting kennedyrealestate.com CalBRE #00763146

Kennedy Real Estate PAGE 16 THE SEA RANCH SOUNDINGS FALL 2014 Celebrate our Coast on the Screen by Diane Hichwa. All photos by Craig Tooley. Join us at Del Mar Hall from 2:00- 3:30 p.m. on Sunday October 5 for a slide presentation sponsored by The Sea Ranch California Coastal National Monument Stewardship Task Force, in celebration of our Coast and 50 years of The Sea Ranch. Sit back, relax to the sounds of the sea and enjoy slides of the variety of sce- nic views, wildflowers and wildlife of our Sea Ranch Coast. The building of The Sea Ranch has altered our land- scape over 50 years, just as the action of wind and waves constantly resculpts our beaches and bluffs. The more we learn, understand, and “live lightly on the land”, the better stewards we can become! Photos and videos will be accompanied by narration.

The California Coastal National Mon- Willet and Black Oystercatcher (in flight). Aerial view of Gualala Point Island, at the north end of The Sea Ranch. ument stretches all along the ten miles of The Sea Ranch. This monument eral projects. We have helped to the wildlife. There is a of islands was established in 2000 by to document a baseline for local hidden colony of Brandt’s then-President Bill Clinton and is man- plants and animals to better in- Cormorants, 90 nests in a aged by the Bureau of Land Manage- form BLM in their management checkerboard pattern on ment (BLM). But plants and animals decisions; worked with MA- the far side of GPI. A few do not observe the land boundaries. RINe in their intertidal study years ago Common Murres Habitats stretch from bluff edge to at Walk On Beach (have you made it their first Sonoma beach, intertidal zone to open ocean-- noticed their grid posts in the County nest site. Here we -each area with unique flora and fauna. rocks at lower tide?); found tsu- can see into the rock crev- nami items during the NOAA ice with Pigeon Guillemot Over the past seven years our local Debris Watch on our beaches, chicks. And it has fascinat- stewardship group has worked on sev- and surveyed for Sea Star Wast- ing geology as well—wait ing Disease. We discovered that until you see views of the at least 8 of our islands have rock from above, or on top! green plants on them, and we located the first known island We have observed some occurrence of a rare coastal food deliveries: squid, oc- grass, Agrostis blasdalei. topus, mouthfuls of krill, and sculpin--- held tightly Join us as we share some of for nestlings. And the ex- the sightings by our teams of citement (at least for the volunteers: watching nests of gull chick) of the first prac- Black Oystercatchers (a “cli- Pigeon Guillemots, which nest in the rock crevices. tices for flight. Early in the mate change indicator species”) with season the harbor seals are pupping and tiny camouflaged chicks or surveying ries and specific nest sites as well. By later scattering all along our coastal Pelagic Cormorant nests on the nar- understanding this better and spreading haulouts. row ledges along the bluff (wondering the word, we can avoid disturbing them how those chicks avoid “being elbowed at crucial times during their nesting sea- No hiking will be involved! You can off” by a sibling). We see that the oys- son. comfortably sit and enjoy a local nature tercatchers return each year to nest in show…..slides and videos by our lo- A rare local coastal grass, Blasdale’s Bentgrass the exact same depressions in the black We will show you interesting scenes of cal photographers. Come and see what (agrostis blasdalei). rock islands, and that the Western Gulls our largest island, Gualala Point Island goes on along our shore …..and the go back and maintain the same territo- (GPI), far enough off shore to be left show goes on, rain or shine!

think real estate!

HANNE LIISBERG DAN KALINOSKI STEVE CARNES RICH KENYON CAROL KOZAL

THE COASTAL REAL ESTATE COMPANY

As of August 22, 2014, Liisberg& Kalinoski Sea Ranch Sales of over $22.3 million since January 1st.

707.785.3322 Open 7 days a week For all listing details see www.TheCoastalRealEstateCompany.com BRE # 01822071