The International Wine Review June/July 2013 Report #37: The Wines of Sicily

Introduction Sicily is one of In this Issue the most exciting wine regions in Italy. In recent decades, Sicil- A Brief Wine History...... 3 ian wines have Geography...... 4 greatly improved Improvements in Viticulture and Winemaking...... 7 in quality. While Sicily is renown The Vineyard...... 7 for its outstand- The Winery...... 9 ing dessert wines The Grapes and Wines...... 10 such as the world-famous Marsala, today there are a growing number of wineries throughout Sicily, large and Sicilian Food and Wine Pairing...... 12 small, producing world class premium wines from unique The Market for Sicilian Wine...... 14 indigenous varieties like Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, Tasting Notes and Ratings...... 16 Frapatto, Grillo, Caricante, and others.

In our previous 2007 report The Wines of Southern Italy: from Quantity to Quality, we noted that most of southern Italy including Sicily had a long history of wine production focused on quantity. Instead of producing wines of qual- ies and styles of wines being produced and identify the ity for the international market, the south of Italy became a best producers. We also take a close look at the special producer of cheap bulk wine, and Sicily was the leading cuisine of Sicily and make recommendations on the pairing producer. Indeed, the structure of the wine industry in Sic- of Sicilian wines and food. Lastly, we examine the global ily was built on the production of cheap wine by coopera- market for Sicilian wines and recommend measures for tives, which in turn stifled private investment and innova- promotion of Sicilian wines in the United States. In the tion in the wine industry. While Sicily’s cooperatives and final section we provide tasting notes and ratings on more private companies continue producing a vast quantity of than 200 wines tasted for this report. Some of the artisanal innocuous wine, there are today many outstanding family wines we review are produced in small quantities and are and commercial wineries producing world class wines difficult to find outside Sicily, but the persistent consumer that deserve the attention of the trade and serious wine who seeks out these wines will be amply rewarded. consumers. These wines are the focus of this report. The current market for Sicilian wines in the US should grow In this report we provide a brief history of Sicily’s wine in the coming years. The quality of the wines is excellent industry and identify its major wine growing regions and and the prices are competitive for most wines. The big their different soils and climate. We then identify the challenge for the Sicilian wine industry and its importers improvements which have taken place in the vineyards is to educate the public about the quality and uniqueness and the wineries throughout the island that help explain of Sicilian wines. This is one of the missions of Assovini the emergence of Sicily as a producer of premium wine. Sicilia, the trade organization which represents most of the A unique characteristic of Sicilian wine is its indigenous quality wine producers of Sicily in international markets. grapes, so we focus the next section on the different variet- Acknowledgements. The preparation of this report was made possible by the generous support and collaboration of Assovini Sicilia and its member wineries. We are especially appreciative of the encouragement and support given to us by Antonio Rallo and Alessio Planeta. We also want to thank Giuseppe Longo, Assovini’s Director, for his outstanding assistance in organizing our visit to Sicily. We were warmly welcomed by all of the wineries we visited and were extended special hospitality by the following: Caruso & Minini, Donnafugata, Planeta, Tasca d’Almerita, COS, Valle dell’Acate, Zisola, Setteporte and Tenuta delle Terre Nere. We also appreciate the wine samples and information provided by the many US importers of Sicilian wines. We also owe a great deal of gratitude to Bill Nesto MW and Frances di Savino for their superb book, The World of Sicilian Wine, which was published just prior to our visit to Sicily. The book is a tour de force on Sicilian wine and was extremely helpful to us during our visit to Sicily and in writing our report. We are most indebted to Bill and Frances. Finally, many thanks to Dana Rubsam Penso, our Italy correspondent, who contacted wineries on our behalf

Mike Potashnik and Don Winkler with Joel Butler, Contributing Editor

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2 were plentiful and cheap. The fact that in 1805 Thomas A Brief Wine History Jefferson purchased a barrel of Marsala is evidence of Woodhouse’s success in marketing Marsala. In the ensuing Sicily has a long and colorful wine history beginning with- years other British entrepreneurs followed Woodhouse and ancient times. It acquired worldwide renown in the 19th invested in vineyard development, winemaking, and trans- century with the discovery of vino perpetuo by an English port of still wines in and around the town of Marsala. merchant, who fortified the wine and marketed it to the world as Marsala. The popularity of Marsala eventually During the second half of the 19th century, following the faded, to be replaced the middle of the last century by the unification of Italy under Giuseppe Garibaldi, British influ- production of bulk wine by community cooperatives. But ence in the wine industry waned, and more Sicilians towards the end of the century, quality growers began bot- entered the Marsala trade, producing wine for local con- tling their own wine, following the viticultural and enologi- sumption and exporting it to France, England, and other cal advice of the Sicilian Wine Research Institute (IRVV) 1 countries. Indeed, the wine industry flourished during and gaining success in export markets . Today, there’s a this period with vineyard plantings reaching their highest renewed emphasis on the indigenous varieties of Sicily ac- point in history—over 321 thousand hectares. The boom, companied by continued improvements in growing grapes however, did not last; phylloxera hit Italy in 1880 and took and making wine. a major toll on vineyards and wine production until the middle of the 20th century when wine cooperatives came Ancient Times on the scene and transformed Sicily into a major bulk wine producer. The Greeks and Phoenicians were the first to grow vines and produce wine in Sicily in the 8th century B.C. Ac- cording to Homer Sicily was a wild yet fertile place and The Rise of the Cooperatives that with a little industry it could become a land of plenty. In the centuries that followed, other outsiders (Romans, During the second half of the 20th century, cooperative Muslims, Normans et al) exploited Sicily’s natural wealth wineries became the major producers of wine in Sicily. but failed to create an indigenous wine culture. Under These cooperatives produced grape juice (must) and wine the Romans, the island became the breadbasket of the in bulk from grapes purchased from their members—small Roman Empire, and Sicily’s grapes and wines were prized farmers. Responding to the growth in demand for cheap on the Roman table. The Muslims introduced a variety wine in Europe and aided by favorable EU trade policies, of new crops on the island beginning in the 9th century Sicily rapidly became a major producer of bulk wine and and continued the cultivation of wine grapes although not its cooperative wineries expanded rapidly. The wine to the same degree as in Greek and Roman times. The boom of this period also enabled cooperatives to provide Norman kings brought wealth to Sicily and protected its essential income to small Sicilian farmers, especially those natural resources but contributed little to the development in the West who had been hard hit with the down turn of of the island’s wine culture. Indeed, up to the end of the the Marsala industry in the 1960s. From 1970 the number 18th century foreign rulers and the landed nobility which of cooperative wineries in Sicily increased from 73 to 197 arose with them continued to exploit Sicily’s natural wealth by 1980. As of 1987, 78 percent of Sicilian wine was pro- without developing an indigenous culture for wine produc- duced by cooperatives, and 97 percent of that was sold tion. in bulk. One cooperative—Settesoli—located in Menfi on Sicily’s southwestern coast was exceptional. Formed in The Age of Marsala 1958, it started bottling wine in the mid-1970s under the leadership of Diego Planeta and today is highly successful Sicily’s wine exporting good quality value wines. industry began to emerge in the late 18th century with the invention of Marsala by the Englishman, John Woodhouse. Woodhouse land- ed on Sicily’s west coast near the city of Marsala (see map) in 1770, tasted the local wine called Vino Perpetuo (a wine aged in cask more than 40 years and drawn directly from cask) and realized he could fortify the wine to better withstand shipment and make a less costly version of Madeira since both labor and grapes

1In 2011 the IRVV was replaced by the IRVOS (Istituto Regionale Vini e Oli di Sicilia) to promote Sicilian olive oil in addition to wine.

3 The Palmento: Traditional Winemaking identify promising international varieties and supported the Prior to the travel and study of young enologists to become acquainted introduction of with developments in other countries. Also during this modern enology, period, Giacomo Tachis, one of Italy’s finest enologists winemaking in from Tuscany, and a follower of the famed Emile Peynaud Sicily took place of Bordeaux, became a consultant to the IRRV. For more in palmentos. than a decade Tachis helped give direction to Sicily’s qual- A precursor to ity revolution, promoting the adoption of Nero d’Avola as today’s wineries, Sicily’s red grape, prescribing the growing of international the palmento varieties, introducing techniques to improve the quality of was a building Zibibbo (Muscat Alexandria) and Moscato Bianco dessert constructed of wines and helping develop barrel fermentation techniques stone where freshly harvested grapes were crushed for Chardonnay and indigenous whites. and where the juice underwent alcoholic fermentation. The walls of the palmento were very thick, to buffer In recent decades, producers in Sicily have focused their rapid temperature changes. Palmentos were frequently attention on producing high quality wines from their own built to make use of gravity—the reception area was indigenous varieties. Some of the most notable examples elevated, and subsequent processes occurred at lower are the group of producers on Mt. Etna in eastern Sic- elevations. Typically, harvesters dumped grape bunch- ily: Marco de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Andrea es into shallow stone basins where a team of crushers Franchetti of Passopiscaro, Federico Curtaz of Tenuta di trod the grapes, the juice of which then flowed through Fessina, Alberto Graci, Barone de Villagrande, and oth- stone gutters to stone tanks where it fermented and ers who are crafting stunning wines from the indigenous then to another level where it was transferred to large grapes of Nerello Mascalese and Carricante. In Vittoria chestnut or oak barrels, like the chestnut barrels that in southeastern Sicily, the winemakers at COS, Arianna we saw in the old palmento preserved at the Barone Occhipinti, and at Gaetana Jacono’s Valle delle Acate are de Villagrande winery on Mt. Etna (see picture). The producing exciting Cerasuolo di Vittoria, and Frappato. introduction of modern winemaking equipment and Indeed, in virtually every growing area of Sicily there has more hygienic conditions in the cellar have made the been exciting progress in the quality of Sicilian wine. traditional palmentos obsolete for winemaking today. Many sit abandoned, surrounded by the vineyards they used to serve. However, they are interesting tourist at- tractions. Geography Sicily is a geographically diverse wine growing region with unique soils born from underwater volcanoes, strong The Quality Revolution winds that attack from the south and the north, and sites suitable for growing grapes on the coastal plains, the hilly Beginning in the 1980s a small number of Sicilian wine interior, and the mountains and volcanoes of the island. In producers began producing high quality wine that ulti- this section we examine this terroir and how it varies across mately led to today’s quality winemaking revolution. These the major growing regions of the island. producers were by no means the first, as a couple of decades earlier, Giuseppe Tasca and his wife took over management of Tasca d’Almerita and began producing The Island wines of quality as did the team at Duca di Salaparuta under the leadership of the brilliant Piedmontese consulting The largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily also has winemaker, Franco Giacosa. Also in 1971, the French- the tallest (3320 m), active volcano (Mt. Etna) in Europe. man Hugues Bernard began producing quality wine at Shaped like a triangle, the island’s apex is Marsala on the the Rapitalà winery at Alessandro di Compareale near west, and its base lies to the east, running from Messina Palermo. These early pioneers were followed in the 1980s in the north to Siracusa and Noto in the south with Sicily’s by Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano, second largest city, Catania, located in between. The the founders of COS winery, by the Rallo family of Donna- northern side of this triangle is mountainous (the Peloritanis) fugata, by Salvatore and Vinzia di Gaetano of Firriato, by as is its southeast corner (the Hyblaeans), while the south- Marco De Bartoli, who revitalized the making of quality ern and western coasts are home to seaside plains that rise Marsala, by Diego Planeta and others. These were just a to the hills that dominate the island. Less than 15 percent few of the producers who, with the help of other industry of the land is classified as littoral plains. leaders and consultants, would transform Sicily into a qual- ity wine producer in the decades ahead.

In the late 1980s and 1990s, most of the leaders of Sicily’s wine industry looked beyond Sicily for help in developing their industry. In 1985, Diego Planeta, head of the Sette- soli cooperative and the new President of Sicily’s Regional Institute of Vine and Wine (IRRV), funded research to

4 Excluding the northern mountains, Sicily was born under The plains, hills, and mountains and their different expo- water, the product of underwater volcanoes (like the active sures create numerous, distinct areas for growing vines. For volcano Ferdinandea located 6m under water just west of purposes of exposition, we simplify and divide Sicily into Agrigento) and the violent clash of continents as the Afri- five principal regions—the West, the Center, the Northeast, can plate slid under the Eurasian plate pushing Sicily out the Southeast, and the Islands. of the sea. As a result, much of the island’s soil is calcare- ous in nature, with limestone especially prominent in the southeast. The absorptive capacity of the soils helps vines survive the long, arid summer. Both active volcanoes like Mt Etna and dormant ones like Monti Iblei in the southeast have contributed rich basalt to the soils2.

The West

The West is mostly comprised of the province of Trapani The Climate (one of nine in Sicily) and includes two major urban areas, Marsala and Trapani. As with other coastal areas, soils Sicily lies in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, and its near the sea include the mineral salts of ancient lagoons. climate is warm with rainfall concentrated in the winter Many of the soils, both along the coast and on the hills fur- months. Average rainfall is about 600 mm but varies con- ther inland, are calcareous red clay.The Grillo grape does siderably, as shown in the map. Milo on Mt. Etna receives especially well in the hot, dry coastal climate, while Catar- about double the average for the island; rainfall is also ratto, the most widely planted variety, is mainly grown on higher than average in the mountains south of Palermo. As the inland hills, which rise as high as 600 m. The Trapani with many parts of the Mediterranean, rainfall in Sicily has area grows 58 percent of all wine grapes in Sicily and an declined in recent decades3. Average temperatures and astounding 70 percent of all white wine grapes. Some of diurnal variations also vary by altitude and proximity to the Sicily’s most prestigious producers have vineyards in the sea, which serves as a moderating influence, warming in West, including Caruso & Minini, Firriato and De Bartoli. the winter and cooling in the summer. Diurnal temperature variations are greatest in the interior at high elevations like The Center the Regaleali estate near Sambuca located northeast of Agrigento. This includes a large area covering the land between the Tyrrhenian Sea on the north to the Mediterranean on the Strong winds from every direction buffet the island the south and extending from the Belice River on the west as year round. The hot, dust-laden scirocco that comes out far east as the Salso River. It corresponds approximately of the Sahara can reach speeds as high as 100 km/h and to the provinces of Palermo, Agrigento, Caltanissetta, and snap green shoots in the spring and dry out grapes in the Enna and has 36 percent of Sicily’s grape vines. The autumn. It’s especially persistent and severe on the island major wine producing areas are the highlands south of the of Pantelleria. seaside city of Palermo, the plains and hills near the south- ern coast called the Terre Sicane, and the highlands in the very center of the island.

Palermo. Much of the Palermo area is hilly with medium- 2For a detailed analysis of Sicilian soils, consult Venturella, Giuseppe. “Climatic high altitude (400+ m) vineyards of calcareous clay soils and Pedological Features of Sicily.” BOCCONEA (2004). and a benign climate, including moderate average rain- 3Arnone, E. et.al. (2013) Rainfall statistics changes in Sicily, Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci. fall (600 mm). Both indigenous (Catarratto, Inzolia) and Discuss., pp 2323-2352. international varieties are grown. Wineries with vineyards

5 in the Palermo highlands include Duca di Salaparuta and Rapitalá.

Terre Sicane. The Terre Sicane is arid and hot and fre- quently buffeted by the African scirocco. The soils are typically sedimentary and calcareous, and the vineyards are typically planted at 250-500 meters altitude. White grape varieties (Inzolia, Catarratto, Chardonnay, Viognier) dominate, but French red varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Sau- vignon, Syrah) have also gained in popularity. Important, large wineries in the Terre Sicane include Donnafugata, Planeta, and Settesoli.

Central Highlands. In the very center of Sicily, one finds vineyards planted on mountainous hillsides at high altitudes (up to 900m). While days during the growing season can be hot, especially when the scirocco blows, temperatures plummet at night, resulting in large diurnal temperature variations. Like most the rest of Sicily, even these highlands were at one time under the sea, reflected in the calcium carbonate content of the sandy and clay soils. Arguably the most important producer here is Tasca d’Almerita with over 400 ha of vineyards near Vallelunga. Catarratto, Nero d’Avola, Perricone, and Cabernet Sauvignon are Mt. Etna DOC among the varieties grown in the central highlands. continuing eruptions of ash and pumice and periodic lava The Southeast flows, the most recent large one occurring in 1991-1993. The soils are, of course, basaltic but of widely varying tex- This historic area lies between the Salso River on the west tures, from fine sand to basalt rocks the size of potatoes. and the Ionian Sea on the east and includes important Since Mt. Etna is active, falling ash and lapilli (small, light urban centers like Vittoria, Ragusa, Noto, and Siracusa. It volcanic pebbles) are not uncommon, especially towards is where Franco Giacosa discovered Nero d’Avola, and the east and southeast, due to prevailing winds, and con- where several growers, including the Zonin-owned Principi tribute to soil fertility. The soils are loose and well-aerated, di Butera, have planted that variety near Butera. Aside allowing the roots of vines to easily penetrate the basaltic from Butera, the most important wine growing regions are substrata in search of water in the dry-farmed vineyards. around the city of Vittoria and south of Noto. The South- east has only about 4 percent of all Sicilian vineyards. The terroir of Etna varies greatly depending on altitude and vineyard location, with higher rainfall, cooler tempera- Vittoria. Vittoria is coastal plain of sandy, sedimentary tures, greater diurnal variation, and more basaltic soils the soils, often with a calcareous hardpan, and a hot, dry higher the altitude. Below 400m the soils tend to be sandy climate. It is the home of the delicate Frappato grape clay of alluvial and basaltic origins, and the slopes are and the Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend of Frappato and Nero gentle enough to permit modern, wire-trained vines. Wide- d’Avola. Important wineries include COS, Occhipinti, and ly differing mixes of basaltic rocks and sand predominate Valle dell’Acate. at altitudes between 400 and 900m (essentially, between two parallel roads, the Quota 600 and the Quota Mille, Noto. While Vittoria is near the southern shore and the where Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and other Mediterranean, Noto is nearer the eastern shore and the indigenous red grapes grown alberello (individually staked Ionian Sea. Here the highly calcareous, clay soils can be bush vines) style, often on terraced vineyards. White almost white, which reflects the heat and helps keep soils grapes, mostly Carricante, grown best above 900 m, the cool. As the hottest part of Sicily, fruit can get very ripe, altitude helping preserve the grape’s natural acidity. Red as we found in our tastings there. Moscato Bianco and varieties dominate Mt. Etna, representing over 90 percent Nero d’Avola are two important varieties grown here. Well of all vines planted, but the white variety Carricante is pre- known wineries include Feudo Maccari and Zisola. dominant on the southeastern slope, especially in Milo. Rainfall varies not only by altitude but, also, by location on The Northeast Mt. Etna. Precipitation is greatest (1200 mm, annually) on the eastern and southeastern slopes, which receive a direct Quantitatively, the Northeast is Sicily’s least important wine hit from winter storms coming in off the sea. The northern region. However, it compensates for its lack of size by pro- slopes receive less direct rainfall but benefit from runoff ducing some of Sicily’s most exciting wines. While grapes from the summit that is absorbed by the volcanic substrata. are grown on the coastal plain bordering the Tyrrhenian Sea to the north, the main growing area in the northeast Numerous wineries are producing high quality wines from is Mt. Etna, especially its northern and eastern sides. Mt. Etna. Some of the better known are Barone di Villagrande, Etna is one of the most active volcanoes in the world with

6 Cornelissen, Graci, Passopisciaro (Andrea Franchetti’s the quality of its wines, unique varieties and a variety of estate), and Terre Nere (Marc de Grazia’s estate). terroirs, reflecting its strikingly diverse climate and topogra- phy. The Islands There is evidence that Sicily’s producers are paying heed Sicily has numer- to Professor Scienza’s comments. The quality of Sicilian ous offshore wine has improved immensely over the past two decades, islands. In terms resulting from numerous changes in the vineyard and of wine produc- the winery. These changes have had diverse sources— tion, the most research and experiments carried out by the IRVV, the important is the Università di Milano, Università di Palermo, and forward largest island, thinking growers and wineries; advice from world-famous Pantelleria, Italian enologists; EU regulations and subsidies; and the in- which lies direct- centives provided by higher prices and the critical acclaim ly east of Tunis and recognition of Sicily’s best wines by the wine trade and just 60 km and consumers. from the Tunisian coast. With vol- The Vineyard A Zibibbo Vine on Pantelleria canic soils, high summer tempera- The Sicilian vineyard has undergone numerous changes in tures, almost no ground water, scant precipitation and in recent years—better plant material, different planting prac- the direct path of the fierce scirocco winds, the island is tices, new vineyard sites, and improved vineyard manage- famous for its Passito di Pantelleria, made from the Zibibbo ment, including increased use of sustainable and organic grape. Most vineyards are located near the sea, which practices. helps moderate the summer heat and provides essential humidity. Vines are head trained (alberello pantesca—see photo) and planted close to the ground in depressions for Improved Indigenous Clones protection from the wind. Increasing research into grape improvement via clonal se- Closer to Sicily and just 15 km from the Trapani coast near lection and identification of old, indigenous vines of quality Marsala lie the Egadi Islands, including the largest and has grown strongly in the last 10 years. Since 2003, the most important, Favignana, where Firriato has an experi- Regional Agricultural Assessor for Sicily has carried out a mental vineyard located just meters from the sea. large-scale project aimed at genetic improvement of the island’s ampelographic foundations, in collaboration with The Eolian (Lipari) Islands are a volcanic archipelago that the Universities of Palermo and Milan, along with Rome’s lies at the opposite end of Sicily just off its northeastern CRA-PAV (Centro di Ricerca per la Patologia Vegetale). shore. Commercial vineyards can be found on the largest From this research has come the first organized clonal island, Lipari, as well as on Salina. The islands receive selections of key varieties like Frappato, Inzolia and Nero moderate rainfall and have sandy, volcanic soils. The d’Avola, along with the identification of over 50 indigenous principal grape variety is Malvasia di Lipari which has tra- varieties, many previously unknown. These discoveries ditionally been used to make sweet, passito wines. Tasca have led producers to replant better vine material accord- d’Almerita has a 5 ha vineyard on Salina for making a ing to site. Simultaneously, producers like Marco Nicolosi passito style Malvasia. Carlo Hauner and Colosi also are of Barone di Villagrande continue to replant their vineyards important producers of this wine. from a careful selection of cuttings from their own vines, thus preserving genetic diversity.

At Donnafugata this desire to increase diversity and quality led to their planting 33 biotypes of Muscat from all over at their large vineyard on Pantelleria, famous for its ancient Improvements in Viticulture sun-dried Zibibbo (Muscat Blanc). In a joint effort with Giuseppe Tasca at Regaleali, both properties have planted and Winemaking some of the 50 nearly extinct varieties noted above in order to further Sicily’s stature for quality wine and protect “Sicily has a heavy responsibility to European viticultural a precious cultural heritage. history, that of maintaining the sensitivity to history which is inherent in the island’s traditions, of keeping alive the relationship between the universality of myth and local Better Vineyards traditions, where the tangible signs of symbols are found in those ancient grapes and in those places where they Growers are searching out better locations for vineyards, come alive again.” These words by noted Viticultural partly in response to global warming, partly the result of Professor Attilio Scienza, from the Istituto Agrario di San changes in consumer preferences, and partly to simply get Michele all’Adige, echoed in our minds as we travelled better fruit. Increased temperatures as well as the modern around the island and inspected the diversity of vineyards. preference for delicate and crisp white wines has encour- From ancient times until quite recently, Sicily was noted for aged producers to plant at higher elevations, above 600

7 meters. The de- Guyot when it replanted to international varieties in the mand for fresh 1990s. Both trellising systems allow for mechanized har- white wines as vesting and drip irrigation, and cordon-spur also permits opposed to the mechanized pruning. The high cost of manual labor in old, oxidized Sicily requires mechanized viticulture in order to produce style typical of wine at internationally competitive prices. However, grow- the Marsala ing numbers of growers are resuscitating old alberello and Alcamo trained vineyards, especially on Mt Etna, and some (e.g., area propelled Feudi Maccari, Tasca d’Almerita) are even planting new Cusamano to alberello vineyards. In some cases (e.g., Pantelleria) alber- plant their Piano ello is the only feasible system. The high costs of rebuild- Villagrande’s High Density, High Altitude, Massale degli Albanesi ing terraces (on Etna) and maintaining low-yielding, old Planted Vineyard at Milo vineyard near alberello vines on tiny plots makes this financially feasible Ficuzzi at 700 meters. Likewise, most people consider the only for high-end wines. Today the distribution of vines by best Etna white wines to come from around Milo on the type of training is: alberello (8%), trellised/spalliera (82%), volcano’s eastern slopes above 700 meters where there is and pergola/tendone (9%). more rainfall and cooler temperatures (Barone di Villa- grande), or the drier north slopes above 850 meters (Terre Alberello. Trans- Nere, Passopisciaro). lated as “little tree”, alberello is the The search for better vineyard sites includes the rediscov- age-old traditional ery of old sites. Etna is perhaps the best example of the method of vine-grow- resuscitation of historic growing areas, but the practice ing still widely used extends beyond Etna. Planeta has been especially active in many parts of in developing new vineyards in historic areas like Vittoria, Sicily. Low-growing, Noto, Mamertino, and, of course, Etna. Old vineyards in often pruned in a Etna and elsewhere are located on what were at one time goblet-style, circular large wine estates called contradas, and some produc- form, alberello vines ers (Terre Nere, Passopisciaro) started several years ago are typically low in putting the names of the contradas on their wine labels. vigor, ideally suited Marco de Grazia advocated identifying and defining the to warm areas and contradas of Etna, and as a result in 2011 a ministerial rocky, well-drained decree established 133 of them and legalized putting the Century Old Pre-Phylloxera Nerello soils where the leaf contrada’s name on wine labels when the grapes come Mascalese Alberello Vine in Terre Nere’s canopy shades the from a specific one. Don Peppino Vineyard in Contrada clusters from sun- Calderara Sottana burn, and the porous Vineyards are also being planted more densely than a de- ground allows deep cade ago in order to limit production per vine while main- root penetration. This allows older vines especially to taining overall production levels4. The Planeta vineyard in avoid undue stress as they can take advantage of a Ulmo has increased density from 3800 to 5000 vines per deep water level. Older alberello vineyards are espe- hectare, while Villagrande’s vineyards are planted 7000 cially common where phylloxera cannot survive, like on vines/ha. Andrea Franchetti at Passopisciaro on the high Mt. Etna due to its sandy, low clay content soils. Yet at slopes of Mt Etna (above 800 m) has recently planted properties like Feudi di Maccari near Noto, producers Cesanese and Petit Verdot vines to 12,000/ha, an inordi- have planted newer vineyards in the traditional manner, nately high density designed to focus these vines to better citing the benefits above, the less expensive planting concentration considering the marginal, cool climate at this costs (no fancy trellising), and the self-limiting vigor elevation. achieved as the vine’s roots go deeper.

Cover cropping is increasingly used by some (Planeta, Improved Vineyard Management Donnafugata, Regaleali and others) to divert some energy from vines so that they do not grow as vigorously, thus For newly planted vineyards, Sicily made the conversion achieving lower sugars and hopefully better alignment of from the traditional alberello (see box) or pergola style flavour development. By tilling under these grasses and training to Guyot and and cordon-spur (cordone spero- legumes, they also maintain a healthier soil and lower the nato) training several decades ago. Cottanera on Etna, need for fertilizers. for example, used to be pergola trained but converted to More recently, producers are returning to more traditional pre-industrial era vineyard management practices of a 4Increased planting density is another way that Sicilian growers are returning to century ago, when everything was farmed “organically”. the past. As Salvo Foti in La Sicilia del Vino (Maimone, 2005) states (JB transla- Sicily’s overall dry and benign climate, often windy, tion): “Fifty years ago, the normal vine density in Sicily was about 10,000 vines/ permits a more hands-off approach to farming that produc- ha; today, while there are isolated examples like this, they have become the excep- ers find less capital intensive, more consumer-friendly and tion…..new types of trellising have so modified the traditional systems that they have cut to 1/10 the number of vines per hectare.” quality enhancing. At Regaleali, Giuseppe Tasca said his

8 father started to reduce chemical treatments beginning in the 1980’s, including sulphur treatments. From four years Franco Giacosa: Pio- ago, Tasca no longer uses any copper or sulphur, and neer of Sicily’s Nero is effectively organic. Other growers (Valle dell’Acate, d’Avola. Franco Giaco- Feudo Maccari) are following organic practices, and a sa played a key role in Sic- small number of producers (e.g., COS) have converted to ily’s quality wine revolution biodynamic farming. by helping to revive Sicily’s indigenous wine varieties like Nero d’Avola. In 1974, The Winery several years after obtaining a diploma at the School of In the winery, Sicilian producers are crafting wines using Enology in Alba, Giacosa modern equipment and new techniques introduced since joined the winemaking the 1990s. Most of the old palmentos have been replaced team of Duca di Salaparuta with new facilities, and well-trained enologists and consult- where he worked with Italy’s ing winemakers are at the helm in many of the top winer- famed enologist Ezio Rivella. At Duca di Salaparuta ies. Some noteworthy improvements in winemaking from he experimented using 120 small vats ( 100 liters) for the harvest to barrel aging are noted below. microvinification. This became essential for comparing and understanding the different varieties, soils and mi- The Harvest croclimates of Sicily, which up to that time was known exclusively for its wine sold in bulk. In the early 1980s Meticulous vineyard he started production of a red wine using 100% Nero management and d’Avola, which received world wide accolades. He steady ripening of later incorporated Nero d’Avola into the blend of Duca grapes enable Sicily’s Enrico, which was Sicily’s first varietal Nero d’Avola. wineries to harvest In 1997 Giacosa left Duca di Salaparuta and became healthy grapes by Technical Director for Zonin. He encouraged Gianni machine and by hand. Zonin to purchase the 310 ha property that later be- The top wineries like came Feudo Principi di Butera. As technical director Donnafugata are pick- at Zonin, Giacosa continued work on the development ing their grapes for of Italy’s indigenous grape varieties until he retired in acidity and freshness 2 011. Harvest at Donnafugata and harvesting by hand and sorting to remove Maturation debris before fermentation. Because of high daytime temperatures, top producers also harvest at night to better Sicilian producers of quality red wine are using oak bar- preserve the aromas of the fruit. rels for maturation, especially small barriques (225L) and slightly larger tonneaux (350-500L). However, many Fermentation producers are using less new oak than they did even five years ago and are also using only older barrels. Produc- The use of controlled cold fermentation and cyromacera- ers like Villagrande and Passopisciaro in Etna are using tion in neutral tanks has contributed to white wines with larger oak (even chestnut, the traditional wood for Etna red fresher fruit, improved aromatics, stability of taste proper- wines) vessels from 3 hl to 15 hl for aging their wines. ties and better overall balance. Carricante, Inzolia, and Grillo have been the main beneficiaries. The use of cold Producers like Alessio Planeta and Marco de Grazia cite maceration before alcoholic fermentation is also helping two reasons for dialing down the oak. As vines have ma- produce more concentrated color and softer tannins in tured the wines have greater fruit and structure and don’t Sicilian red wines. need the “crutch” of new oak. Also, the increasing impor- tance attached to the expression of terroir dictates that oak Most Sicilian producers are also now doing relatively influence be reduced. Perhaps another reason is the deli- shorter and cooler fermentations to avoid overextracting cate nature of some of Sicily’s best varieties, like Frappato tannins and to retain more fruit. Some, like Marco de and Nerello Mascalese, which are easily overwhelmed by Grazia at Terre Nere, have adopted roto-tanks to do fairly too much oak. quick macerations to gain color and fruit with little seed tannin extraction. Winemakers are also using gentler Cement vats are also being used for fermentation and for fermentation techniques to capture the floral, gamey and aging lighter red varieties like Frappato. Cement vats were red fruit character of delicate varieties such as Nerello used for aging well before the introduction of French oak, Mascalese and Frappato. These more controlled methods and they offer several advantages. They breathe like oak have contributed to the development of the unique style of and diffuse oxygen without adding oak character, and wines like Cerasuolo di Vittoria, which exhibits freshness they retain and exchange heat well, so that refrigeration is and delicacy in wines from producers like COS, Occhipinti usually not needed, although glycol tubing can be embed- and Valle dell’ Acate. They have also softened the tannins ded for precision temperature control. in the “rossos” of Mt. Etna.

9 Experimentation White Grapes

Creative wine- Grillo. Grillo was making and ex- historically the most perimentation in important variety in the cellar are tak- quality Marsala. Grown ing place across alborello style and Sicily today. Two harvested late, the Sicilian produc- grape gives both good ers are looking acidity and the high backwards to levels of alcohol desired their Roman past. in Marsala. However, COS is crafting in recent times it was wines fermented largely forgotten as and aged in clay growers replaced it with amphora jars The Grillo Grape the consistently high with indigenous yielding Catarratto. Amphora Sunk in Gravel at COS yeasts, kept Marco De Bartoli rediscovered the variety in the 1980s, underground producing a cold-fermented, dry wine that today is widely to moderate heat build-up during maturation and bottled imitated. with little or no added sulphur dioxide. However, only modern scientific knowledge and understanding allows Grillo is grown mostly in the western province of Trapani. this low-tech approach. Franc Cornelissen is using clay It is a spontaneous crossing of two other Sicilian varieties amphorae for producing natural wines. He is an extreme discussed here—Zibibbo and Catarratto. It is frequently naturalist, avoids any treatments of the soil, either organic blended with the more aromatic Inzolia grape. Today or biodynamic, and uses amphorae lined with epoxy resin Grillo represents about 6 percent of Sicily’s planted vines. to reduce volatile acidity in his wines. Grillo table wines are made in several styles. The most frequent is fermented in stainless steel and reveals aromas and flavors not unlike those of Sauvignon Blanc with good acidity and freshness. Good examples of this style are offered by Caruso & Minini, Valle dell’Acate, and Tasca The Grapes and Wines d’Almerita. Grillo is also sometimes aged in oak for up to 12 months. The Duca di Salaparuta makes a good A large number of both indigenous and international example of this style. And Grillo is also often frequently grape varieties are grown in Sicily. However, a relatively blended with other grapes, especially the more aromatic small number are important for premium wine production. Inzolia; Firriato makes an excellent example. White grape varieties represent 64 percent of the total, with 36 percent of plantings being red varieties. As shown Inzolia. An old native variety, Inzolia (also spelled Insolia) in the graph, indigenous varieties like Catarratta, Nero is the third most planted grape in Sicily with 6,800 hect- d’Avola, and Inzolia are a high percentage of all plantings, ares mainly in western Sicily. Inzolia is blended into many with Syrah, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon other wines and is used with Grillo and Catarratto to together representing less than 17 percent of the total. produce Marsala. Light straw in color and low in acidity Some of Sicily’s most interesting indigenous varieties—Ner- it was historically blended with Catarratto to make white ello Mascalese, Carricante, Frappato, Zibibbo, and others wines. Prior to the onset of powdery mildew (to which it barely register on a graph of hectares planted. is especially susceptible) in the 19th century, this was the most widely planted grape in Sicily and, also, made up the largest share of the Marsala blend.

Like Grillo, Inzolia is very productive and needs to be planted in low-fertility soils to lower yields and give qual- ity fruit. Inzolia is mildly aromatic and does best in high altitudes, which bring out its spicy floral character and increases its acidity level. Good examples of fresh Inzolia made in stainless steel are offered by Firriato and Caruso & Minini. Cusumano makes an excellent, wood fermented, lees stirred wine. And several producers blend Cattarato with Inzolia, Grecanico, Cattarato, and even Viognier; rec- ommended producers include Cottanera, COS and Caruso & Minini.

Cataratto. This is the most widely planted of all varieties in Sicily (and the second most widely planted in all of Italy),

10 representing more than a third of all planted vines. It is a Red Grapes high yielding variety that has been written about since the 17th century, but it came to the fore in the 20th century Nero d’Avola. This is Sicily’s when it replaced Grillo for the production of Marsala. It most important red grape with accounts for 34% of total plantings in Sicily with 38,000 16 percent of total plant- hectares. It makes subtly flavored wines of moderate al- ings. While grown all over cohol and high acidity, especially when grown in the hilly the island., it is the domi- interior. As a dry wine, it is frequently blended with Inzo- nant grape in the southeast lia, which contributes both alcohol and fragrance. There vineyards of Butera and Noto are three phenotypes of Catarratto—Comune, Lucido, and and in much of the province Extralucido. Comune is the most widely planted and yields of Caltanissetta in the central the highest sugar and lowest acidity of the three. highlands where it represents 63 percent of total plantings. Carricante. Almost all of the Carricante in Sicily (just 146 Because of the wide variety of ha) is found on Mt. Etna. At high altitudes (1000 m) Car- growing conditions and differ- ricante seems to be a sponge for the minerals of Etna, and ences in wine making Nero its wines are invariably described as subtle, chalky and d’ Avola takes on a variety of mineral-like with high acidity that gives them long life in The Nero d’Avola Grape guises. bottle. It’s the principal grape in Etna Bianco (at least 60% of the blend) and Etna Bianco Superiore (at least 80% of The most common characteristics of Nero d’Avola are dark the blend). Etna Bianco Superiore is only produced in the fruit aromas, hints of herbs and rich earthy flavors. These commune of Milo near Catania. Barone de Villagrane makes an excellent example of this wine. characteristics are found among grapes grown along the coast and anywhere else that grapes are allowed to ripen Carricante is fermented in stainless steel to preserve its longer. Good examples of this ripe style are Princip di aromatic qualities and is usually blended with other variet- Butera, Cusumano, Tasca d’Almerita, Duca Salaparuta, ies, although Tenuta di Fessina makes an outstanding, Duca Enrica and Feudo Maccari. oak-aged, 100 percent Carricante. Firriato and Graci make excellent blends of Carricante and Catarratto, while Since Nero d’Avola ripens relatively early growers need to Planeta blends Carricante with Riesling, and Terre Nere take care to avoid over-ripe, high sugar grapes. Where blends it with Inzolia. grown at higher elevations with cooler growing conditions in the middle of the island, Nero d’Avola yields redder, Zibibbo. This exotic sounding grape is none other than fresh fruit. However, at 500 meters, it has difficulty ripen- the familiar Muscat of Alexandria. Its name is derived from ing and produces light, astringent wines. The top produc- the Arabic “zabib” for dried grape, and became the name ers of well-balanced, spicy dark red fruited Nero d’Avola for this grape variety when the island of Pantelleria was include Tasca d’Almerita, Planeta, Caruso & Minini, Duca under Arabic control. Originally from Northern Africa, di Salaparuta, Valle dell’Acate, Occhipinti, COS, Morgan- the Muscat of Alexandria is one of the oldest genetically te and Principi di Butera. unmodified grapes in existence and is the base of many of the world’s special sweet wines: Beaume de Venise in the Nero d’Avola is frequently blended with international vari- Rhône, Vinho Moscatel in Portugal’s Setúbal region, Hane- eties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Cusumano, poot in South Africa, etc. Indeed, the Vitas International Donnafugata, and Mazzei blend with Bordeaux varieties, Variety Catalogue lists 199 different names for this grape. while Valle dell’Acate blends with Syrah.

Only 2 percent of Sicily’s vineyards are planted to Zibibbo, Frappato. Grown almost exclusively in the southeast, but it is far and away the most important variety planted Frappato has only 1 percent of total plantings in Sicily. on the island of Pantelleria. While Zibibbo is best known However, its popularity is increasing due to its unique rose as the variety used to make the late harvest Moscato di petal and red berry fragrance and delicacy. In Vittoria it Pantelleria and the sweet Passito di Pantelleria, today plays a key role with Nero d’Avola in the blend Cerasuolo many producers also make dry and sparkling Zibibbo from di Vittoria, one of Sicily’s finest wines, which is now pro- grapes grown both on Pantelleria and on Sicily itself. duced by about 20 wineries. Frappato is mainly grown in sandy soils, and its bunches are tight and compact. Chardonnay. Several international white varieties are Fermentation is usually done in stainless steel quickly and planted in Sicily. The most important is Chardonnay, gently at low temperatures to preserve aromatics and fruit which was widely planted on the island beginning in the flavors. Frappato easily oxidizes and is usually over- late 1980s and early 1990s. Today it is the most planted whelmed by barrel fermentation and aging, so concrete international variety and occupies five thousand hectares vats and Slavonian botti are more commonly used. While or more than 4 percent of all plantings. Tasca d’Almerita Frappato lacks anthocyanins and is light in color, it is fla- produced the first varietal Chardonnay and Planeta vorful with red berry and pomegranate fruit flavors. Frap- released its outstanding ripe, barrel-fermented Chardon- pato is clearly not for cellaring and should be consumed nay in the mid-1990s. Today, 98% of all Chardonnay in within two to three years, akin to fine Cru Beaujolais. Sicily is planted in the provinces of Trapani, Agrigento and Palermo. Other producers of excellent Chardonnay-based The percentage of Frappato in Cerasuolo di Vittoria varies wines include Cusumano, Donnafugata, Firriato, and between 30 and 40 percent. Top producers include COS, Rapitalà. Planeta, and Valle dell’Acate. Excellent, single varietal

11 Frappatos are made by COS, Occhipinti, and Valle dell’Acate. Sicilian Food and Wine Nerello Mascalese. Nerello Mascalese is the prized Pairing grape of Mt. Etna, producing some of Sicily’s most authen- tic and unique wines. It is primarily grown on Etna’s north slopes, but is also planted on the east and south slopes. Nerello Mascalese is a late ripening grape, usually har- vested in mid-October, with large clusters and berries and thick skins. Like Pinot Noir, the grape is highly sensitive to its terroir and in the case of Etna reveals the unique charac- teristics of the different contradas (crus) where it is grown. It is often blended with another important variety indig- enous to Mt. Etna, Nerello Cappuccio. Neither variety is widely planted outside of Mt. Etna, although the tiny Faro DOC that overlooks the strait of Messina also uses these varieties. Plantings of Nerello Mascalese are just over 3 percent of all Sicilian plantings, while Nerello Cappuccio is under 1 percent. There are many fine producers of Etna Rosso including Girolamo Russo, Le Vigne, Passopiscaro, Pietradolce, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Tenuta di Fessina, and Graci. Sicilian cuisine is just as exciting as its wines. It is exotic Perricone. One of Sicily’s oldest grapes, Perricone used to and bears the imprint of the different peoples that have be important in western Sicily, but today only occupies less occupied the island over the centuries: Greeks, Romans, than 400 hectares in all of Sicily. It almost became extinct Normans, Spanish, Arabs, French and northern Italians. after phylloxera devastated Sicily in the early 1900s. Homer’s Odyssey describes the island’s bounty of fresh Perricone is a vigorous vine and needs green harvesting apples, pomegranates and grapes. The Normans intro- to achieve a balance between the foliage and the fruit. duced fish curing with salt, while the Spaniards brought Depending upon where it is grown, Perricone can be deep tomatoes, peppers and other vegetables. But it was the in color and bitter or light in color and less astringent. A introduction by the Arabs of almonds, eggplant, couscous, majority of producers use oak to ferment and age Perri- saffron and sugar cane that defined much of Sicilian cook- cone, but some like Caruso & Minini use stainless steel and ing as it is today. During our visit to Sicily we had the produce lighter style wines. good fortune to taste a wide variety of dishes at lunches and dinners around the island. Perricone is used both as a blending grape and a single varietal. It is frequently blended in small amounts with In this section, we identify many of the key dishes of Sicily Nero d’Avola to increase palate texture and reduce high from antipasti to desserts and offer suggestions on pair- acidity. Both Firriato and Tasca d’Almerita blend Perricone ing them with wine. Sicilian dishes are usually simple with Nero d’Avola. Excellent single varietal Perricone is and savory, and Sicilians value fresh ingredients. They made by Caruso & Minini and Firriato. also like to roll and stuff different foods. Rolled meats like Syrah. Like other international varieties, Syrah was only Farssumagru, rolled fish like Involtini and, of course, Can- introduced into Sicily in the mid-1980s. Since its introduc- noli. Sicilians also like fried foods, stuffed fried dough, tion it has become the second most planted red variety fritters, and Arancine, of course. in Sicily after Nero d’Avola and currently accounts for 5 percent of all plantings. Because of its adaptability to Antipasti warm climates and sandy soils, most of it is grown in west- ern Sicily. Stylistically, Sicilan Syrah has been considered Sicilian appetizers similar to Australian Shiraz with ripe, dense, and alcoholic are a wonderful traits. Top producers of Syrah include Caruso & Minini, prelude to the main Cottanera, Principi di Butera, Rapitalà, Valle dell’Acate, meal, but can also Planeta and Passopisciaro. be a meal all by themselves. Mari- Bordeaux Varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and nated mushrooms, other Bordeaux varieties are also planted in Sicily. Like prosciutto di parma, the other international varieties in Sicily they were actively Sicilian olives, promoted for use by the IRVV in the mid-1980s and early carciofi (marinated 1990s. Both Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are mainly artichoke hearts), blended with Nero d’Avola to add color or structure. They are also combined with each other to produce Bordeaux peperoni ripieni Antipasti blends. Excellent examples of Nero d’Avola and Bordeaux (baked yellow and red variety blends are made by Ceuso, Cusumano, and Don- peppers) frittata, omelets of all kinds, carmelised onions, nafugata. Planeta makes an interesting blend of Bordeaux cheesy arancinette (miniature rice ball croquettes) and varieties only. polpette di melanzane (fried and braised eggplant fritters)

12 are among the appetizers we enjoyed for antipasti during e Zacca (green cauliflower and squash) or Spaghetti con our travels in Sicily. Verdure di Campo e Ricotta (Spaghetti with Wild Greens and Ricotta) This simple and delicious dish in the creation Wines: Red and white wines pair well with most antipasti. of Anna Tasca of the famed family of Tasca d’Almerita For most of our meals in Sicily we drank both reds and Winery. whites for starters. Fuller bodied whites work well with spicy olives and marinated vegetables. Light-bodied reds Wines: Because of the wide variety of pasta sauces in are ideal for just about all antipasti, especially fried foods Sicily, pairing them with wine requires attention to the main like arancinette or dried cured meats like proscuitto. ingredients. Red wines are usually paired quite success- fully with pasta with tomato sauces. While visiting Etna we found the high acidity and fresh flavors of Etna Rosso pair Fish and Seafood magnificently with fresh tomato sauces. Big reds work well with more complex and earthy pasta sauces. Fish and seafood are widely avail- able in Sicily. One Meats of the most popular fish dishes is In- In our travels in Italy we seldom ate meat. However, there voltini di Pesce are some wonderful meat dishes Spada, swordfish in the Sicilian culinary repertoire. roll-ups stuffed with Farsumagru (rolled steak, stuffed pine nuts, raisins, sicilian style) is perhaps the most bread crumbs, and celebrated meat dish in Sicily. anchovies. Sicilians It is a steak stuffed with meats, also love the taste Involitini de Pesce Spada cheese, eggs and vegetables and of anchovies. Fresh then rolled to look like a roast. and canned anchovies are featured in local dishes such as Other tasty meat dishes are rolled Spaghetti con Acciughe e Mollica Rossa (spaghetti with up Braciole alla Sicilian, veal anchovy, fresh tomato sauce, and toasted breadcrumbs). cutlets or scaloppini filled with Fresh sardines are also very popular and are usually fried olives and capers and grilled over or grilled but can also be stuffed and baked or featured coals, and Involtini di Carne, emat in the popular pasta dish Pasta con le Sarde. Fresh tuna roll-ups stuffed with ham, cheese is plentiful in late spring and is cut into thin steaks, grilled and pistachios. Spezzatino di and served with fresh tomatoes or other vegetables. Tuna Agnello con Patate (lamb stew with Farsumagru is also preserved as in Tonno Sott’Olio and eaten sparingly potatoes) is one of many savory as an antipasti or in salads. stews served in Sicily. Another is Spezzatino di Vitello, or veal stew made with onions, tomato paste and vegetables. Wines: Sicily produces a variety of white wines that are ideal for pairing with fish and seafood. Young, unoaked Wines: Big, flavorful reds are ideal for pairing with meat Inzolia, Grillo, Catarratto, and Carricante are all good dishes such as steak and lamb. Nero d’Avola is an excel- choices for simple fish dishes and seafood. For richer fish lent choice for most meat dishes, especially the darker and seafood dishes, anchovies and tuna, we recommend riper styles that offer blackberry and earth flavors. Howev- blends of these traditional grapes with Chardonnay, Sau- er, blends of Nero d’Avola with Cabernet Sauvignon and vignon Blanc, and perhaps Viognier. Other good choices Syrah also work well. Syrah by itself also usually pairs would be barrel fermented single varietals like Chardonnay well with beef and lamb dishes. We couldn’t resist order- and Inzolia and barrel fermented blends of these wines or ing veal Marsala at a fine restaurant in the city of Marsala red fruit forward wines such as Frappato or darker more and enjoyed it with a red-fruited Nero d’Avola. complex wines such as Cerusolo di Vittoria. Doci (Desserts) Pasta Sicilian meals always feature a sweet ending. Desserts There are many distinctive pasta dishes served throughout made with fresh ricotta cheese are regularly served at Sicily. Pasta con le Sarde (pasta with sardines) is one lunches and din- of Sicily’s most famous pasta dishes. It is made all over ners and are often Sicily, but the traditional recipe of Palermo is reputedly the high point of a the best. Spaghetti alla Siracusana is another heavenly meal. Cannoli con sauce of crunchy breadcrumbs, sardines, and parmesan Crema di Ricotta is cheese served with plain olive oil. An equally popular very popular in Sicily, and delicious pasta dish is Pasta alla norma, which we and during our visit, ate at small restaurant in Etna. It consists of slowly cooked we tried many differ- eggplant chunks with spices tossed into a basic tomato ent recipes. The best sauce and then tossed with ricotta and pasta. Pasta is ones have crisp shells often blended with vegetables such as Pasta con Broccoli and are filled with Cannoli con Crema de Ricotta freshly made ricotta

13 cream. Cassata is Sicily’s magnificent Arabian -inspired (45%), Carlos & Menini (85%), Feudo Principi di Butera sponge cake with sweetened ricotta cream, marzipan and (60%), Valle dell’Acate (70%), Cottanera (40%), and Bar- candied fruits. It is a specialty of western Sicily, espe- one di Villagrande (55%). cially Trapani, but is a big production to make at home. Casatelle are ricotta-filled, fried turnovers stuffed with In 2011 Sicily produced 4.8 million hectoliters of juice sweetened ricotta. These decadent sweet pastries are also from grapes, of which 1.5 million hectoliters, or 31% of common in Trapani and served with coffee in the morning the total, was bottled in one form or another on the island or as a dessert. Tarts of almonds, figs and other fruits itself. While the percentages vary year by year, about 65 are also popular desserts and are usually made with Pasta percent of Sicilian wine is sold in bulk or as table wine, 30 Frolla, a flaky pastry dough sweetened with sugar and percent is sold with an IGT appellation, and 5 percent is grated zest of lemon. Sicilians also often have plain fruit sold with a DOC or DOCG appellation. Total exports (in for dessert, and there are wonderful choices like yellow 2009) are 460 thousand hectoliters, 74 percent of which is melons, figs, persimmons, blood oranges, kiwi fruit and bottled. In the decade 1999-2009, bulk wine exports plum- dates. There are also mild local cheeses like caciocavallo, meted while exports of bottled wine more than doubled. a semisoft cow’s milk cheese. Sicily’s Appellations. Today, there are 24 Sicilian Wines: Sicily’s sweet wines, known as Passitos, pair wine appellations (23 DOCs, 1 DOCG (Cerasuolo di beautifully with desserts. So long as they are sweeter than Vittoria), and IGT), of which the most widely used is the desserts themselves and have adequate acidity, pas- Sicilia IGT (indicazione geografica tipica), which was sitos are excellent accompaniments to many of the desserts created in 1995. The flexibility the Sicilia IGT allows listed here. Marsala also pairs well with some desserts producers, including higher yields than DOC appella- like cannoli and cheeses like Pecorino. A bold tasting tions, permitting the variety name on the label, sourcing Parmesano will go best with a bold Nero d’Avola. fruit from anywhere on the island, and bottling outside Sicily, quickly made it the most popular of all appella- tions. However, as of the 2012 vintage, the Sicilia IGT appellation ceased to exist and is instead replaced by two other appellations—Terre Sicilia IGT and Sicilia DOC, both of which allow fruit to be sourced from The Market for Sicilian anywhere on the island and the wine to be bottled outside Sicily. It will be challenging to clearly explain Wine to consumers what these appellations mean, aside from “grapes grown in Sicily”. Meanwhile, only a few of the Sicily has made significant improvements in the quality other 23 appellations are commonly used, mostly for of the wines it produces and exports. As a result, foreign wines that already have a clear identity, like Pantelleria, demand has increased, and exports of bottled wine more Etna and Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Given that the generic than doubled between 1999 and 2009. As shown in the classifications Terre Sicilia IGT and Sicilia DOC are graph, the most important market is the UK, followed by likely to be the appellations most consumers will find on Germany, and the US. Other major importers of Sicilian bottle labels, it’s important that quality producers begin wine are Switzerland, Sweden, Canada, and the Nether- putting more detailed technical information on back la- lands. bels as to the grape sources, production methods, and locations of processing facilities so that interested wine consumers can begin learning more about the diverse terroir of Sicily and its impact on wine quality.

Export Promotion

The current market for Sicilian wines in the US should grow in the coming years. The quality of the wines is excellent, and prices are competitive for most wines. One challenge for the Sicilian wine industry is to educate consumers and the trade about the improvements made in the quality of Sicilian wine in recent years. Another is to use the appella- tion system and improved wine labeling to market Sicilian wine more effectively (see box).

While exports have increased, they are still a small Marketing organizations like Assovini Sicilia are playing percentage (about 10 percent) of total (bottled plus bulk) an important role in promoting Sicilian wine exports. Since wine production, which was 4.8 million hectoliters in 2011. Assovini’s 67 members produce 80 percent of the wines However, exports are mostly bottled wine, and exports of actually bottled on the island (as opposed to Sicilian wines bottled wine are about 28 percent of the total 1.5 million bottled on mainland Italy, mostly by larger, more com- hectoliters of bottled wine produced in 2011. Furthermore, mercially oriented producers), it is in a unique position to the producers of especially high quality wine export a promote the Sicilian wine industry in international markets. much higher percentage of their production: Firriato Assovini organizes an en Primeur, which since 2004 has

14 presented the new vintages to the Italian and international press, but it needs to compliment this with other educa- tional activities and industry tastings in key international markets.

Export promotion activities in the U.S. should include me- dia and education campaigns in major US wine markets and tastings for the trade and consumers. The media and educational campaigns should be done in both print and online with target groups identified with the assistance of the Institute for Foreign Trade, the Italian Embassy, and key importers. Sicily has exciting wines to promote in the U.S. market and a good story to tell. Wine enthusiasts would be keen to learn about the authentic, indigenous wines that are being produced in Sicily. Furthermore, the US wine media, including bloggers, need to be encouraged to write more about Sicilian wines, and the Sicilian wine industry itself needs to use social media such as Facebook and Twitter more effectively in generating excitement about Sicilian wines.

Lastly, wine industry leaders need to take action to clarify Sicily’s appellation system so that its fine wines are better understood and appreciated by consumers and the trade. Presently only a few of Sicily’s appellations are commonly used on labels and in the marketing of wines. These include Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Etna, Malvasia delle Lipari, Marsala, and Pantelleria. Each of these refers to specific grape varieties and unique terroir, which conveys valuable information to consumers, but in total they account for just a tiny percentage of Sicily’s total production. The recent ministerial decree allowing Etna producers to put the name of the contrada from which grapes were sourced on the bottle label is a useful step forward in helping consumers identify high quality wines. Hopefully, other DOCs in Sic- ily will soon follow suit in specifying the grape sources and production methods that account for their quality.

15 tion about a wine than a simple number. We do not rate Tasting Notes and Ratings wines tasted in barrel and often do not give final ratings of wines that are newly bottled. We mark these wines with a “?”

All tasting notes and ratings for this report also appear in the i-WineReview‘s Tasting Notes Archive at www. i-winereview.com. Subscribers may use the i-WineReview Search function to locate all reviews of individual produc- ers and their wines. Our tasting notes also include profiles of the producers who may be unfamiliar to our readers.

Abraxas is a small company located on the island of Pantel- leria. The company was founded in 1999 by former Agricultural Minister, Calogero Mamini and Attilio Tripodi. Abraxas has 26 hectares of vines farmed organi- The wine reviews and ratings for this report include more cally in vineyards at 120mt and 400mt. It produces than 200 Sicilian wines. They consist of both indigenous 80,000 bottles of outstanding passito and unique red and international varieties and blends grown throughout wines of very good quality annually. Two reds are re- Sicily. Although Sicilian wines are increasingly popular in viewed here. Importer: Wine Emporium, Brooklyn, NY the US market, many of the wines we tasted in Sicily are still not available in the US. This is especially true of some Abraxas 2009 Rosso Sidereus Sicily ($15) 89 A blend of of the lesser known indigenous varieties and of Marsala. Cabernet Franc and Nero d’Avola, the Sidereus is a rustic Notwithstanding the fame of Marsala, very few of the bet- wine revealing aromas of dark and spicy red berry fruit ter wines such as the Marsala Vergine are being imported, with high acidity. It has good structure, youthful firm tan- which is most unfortunate. Hopefully, in time, when Sicil- nins and a pleasant finish. Sourced from a 360m vine- ian wines are better known and appreciated, restaurants yard. Abraxas 2008 Kuddia del Moro Sicily ($30) 91 A and consumers will have greater access to the full range of more substantial wine than the Sidereus, this Nero d’Avola premium wines being produced in the country. exhibits an attractive dark ruby color and aromas of plum and black cherry. It is a big rustic somewhat earthy wine Our program of tastings was organized by Assovini Sicilia although soft on the palate with dark spicy fruit flavors and and other partners in Sicily. Most of the wines reviewed tannic grip on the finish. Planted at 836m on volcanic soil here were tasted during our visit to Sicily in May 2013. at the foot of the ‘Montagna Grande’ on Pantelleria. Wines we couldn’t taste during our visit because of time constraints, we tasted at our offices in McLean VA and Barone de Villagrande This Washington, DC. We provide tasting notes, ratings and estate, one of the very few located prices for virtually all the wines tasted. Those not import- on the eastern slopes of Mt. Etna ed in the US, with some exceptions, are listed under Other at Milo, is situated at an altitude of Wines Tasted; tasting notes for these wines are provided in 700m above sea level. It is fam- our Tasting Notes Archive watww.i-winereview.com ily owned and operated; co-owner Marco Nicolosi Asmundo serves as The International Wine Review rates wines using the 100 winemaker. The wines produced by point system. We do not write up wines that receive a rat- Barone de Villagrande are virtually ing below 85 points. The ratings are: all of indigenous grapes sourced from their Mt. Etna vineyards, which 95 and above A wine of distinction range from 15 to 75 years in age. 91-94 A wine of outstanding or superior quality Over the past 10 years the company has also been 89-90 A wine of very good to excellent quality managing a project on the island of Salina to produce 87-88 A wine of good quality passito from sun-dried grapes of Malvasia delle Lipari. 85-86 A wine of fair or acceptable quality The quality of Barone de Villagrande wines is very 84 and below Not recommended high. Unfortunately only two wines of this producer are currently imported. Importer: Ominiwines, Flush- We commonly add a + to a point score to indicate our ing, NY judgment that a wine is deemed to be of higher quality than its point score but is not at the next quality level. That Barone de Villagrande 2011 Etna Bianco Superiore Sicily said, we urge our readers to look at our comments that 91 Yellow-green gold color. Herbal-olive and slightly nutty help explain our ratings and provide more useful informa- bouquet reflects some lees contact and a cool site. Very

16 good acidity, bright and less heavy than most Carricante. grapes: Inzolia, Catarratto and Grillo. It is fruity with a The 5-8 months sur lie aging provides excellent depth and nose of white peach and Muscat. The palate is off-dry and good body to support the fine acidic structure fresh fruit clean with a hint of bitterness on the finish. Colosi 2012 and real pretty, even floral character of the wine. A very Nero d’Avola Sicily ($16) 87 Medium dark ruby. Bright, long fine-boned wine. Barone de Villagrande 2010 Etna fruit forward with a Beaujolais-like nose. Medium-body, Bianco Legno de Conzo Sicily 91+ The name of this wine re- fresh, red fruited showing plum and raspberry on the fers to the lengthy, lever beam of a Roman-style press. Full palate. A pleasant and very drinkable style. Colosi 2010 gold-green color. Rich, leesy aromas with overt herbal, nut Rosso Sicily ($16) 88 Medium-red ruby. Red raspberry and white peach scents. Quite fresh, lively flavors, even and cherry aromas on the nose. Very quaffable and fruit with the evident oak. Distinguished, balanced and richer forward, with good flavor concentration and firm tannins. in texture than the above wine, if a trace less elegant. A good pizza wine. Barone de Villagrande 2008 Etna Rosso Lenza di Man- nera Sicily 92 Unique because it was aged in traditional Caruso & Minini Located manner (chestnut barrels) for two years. Ruby-garnet color. in the City of Marsala, Rich, black cherry, with slightly roasted plum and coffee Caruso & Minini owns 120 aromas. Medium full bodied, with rich sweet, yet firm fla- hectares in the hills between vor reflecting some oak tannin. Quite harmonious, earthy Marsala and Salemi at and nuanced flavors, with a hint of balsamic. Very stylish, 350 meters in elevation. long and lightly herbal finish. Barone de Villagrande The operation is owned by 2011 Fiore Sicily 90+ Fiore is a blend of 90% Carricante Mario Minini who managed and 10% Chardonnay that is fermented and aged in a winery in northern Italy and Stefano Caruso whose French oak for 10 to 12 months.. Medium straw, it reveals family had been growing grapes and selling them to aromas of orchard fruit, herbs, minerals and toast. These merchants for the past 100 years. The winery is lo- are mirrored on a full-bodied palate with a. crisp finish. cated in a late19th century “baglio” in the heart of the traditional wine-cellar area of Marsala. The wines are Other Wines Tasted: Baronet de Villa Grande 2008 Ciara well-made, of excellent quality, and offered at bargain Sicily 91 Baronet de Villagrande 2010 Passito Malvasia prices. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY di Liparí Sicily 91, Barone de Villagrande 2011 Etna Rosso Sicily ($20) 89 Caruso & Minini 2012 Inzolia Terre di Giumara Sicily ($15) 88 The 2012 Inzolia has a medium straw hue and fresh Calcagno The vineyards of Calcagno are located in aromas of pear and melon. It is full and round on the Passopisciaro in Mt. Etna and are planted on ancient palate, fresh, friendly and un-complicated. Caruso & lava flows. The winery produces wines from Nerello Minini 2012 Grillo Timpune Sicily ($16) 90 Timpune means Mascalese and Carricante. Marco de Grazia assists ‘summit’ in Sicilian dialect; the ‘top’ both in altitude (here with the winemaking and the quality is very good. 400m) and also best of class. Pure, strong, lemon and Importer: unknown floral (broom) nose. Not too fruity, but with a fine chalky texture, medium full body and somewhat similar to good Calcagno 2011 Arcuria Sicily 88 This is a pleasant tasting Greco di Tufo, but with less finesse. This is a very good “rosso” of Nerello Mascalese, sourced from Mt. Etna. It re- and fresh wine, with more length than many. Caruso & veals aromas of red strawberries and plum with a soft and Mini Insula 2012 Sicily ($18) 89 This is an attractive blend fruity attack, a flavorful palate, with firm tannins and a dry of 50% Inzolia, 15% Catarratto and 35% Grecanico. It is finish. Calcagno 2010 Arcuria Sicily 89 The medium-ruby fermented in stainless steel and in Acacia and oak bar- colored 2010 Arcuria is a step up from the 2011 vintage. rels and kept on the lees for 6 weeks. It is very fragrant It is light and elegant on the palate with red berry fruit and with aromas of flowers and passion fruit and flavors of a touch of earth and vanilla. It is more flavorful than the sweet light peach with a hint of almond. Caruso & Minini 2011 vintage and finishes dry with a bitter note. 2011 Cutaja Nero d’Avola Sicily ($15) 90 Deep ruby purple. A lovely style of wine, with nutty-toasty aromas Cantine Colosi Since 1987 (but not oaky), dark red plum and black cherry fruits, Cantine Colosi has been produc- with a touch of balsamic adding spice tones. Sappy, ing indigenous Sicilian wines on spicy flavors with good acidity and well-defined tannins the small island of Salina in the showcase medium body. Caruso & Minini 2009 Sachia Aeolian archipelago. Its vineyards Perricone Sicily ($18) 91 The traditional black grape of consist of about 10 ha situated on the Marsala region. Sourced from a two hectare plot, the volcanic soils. Colosi wines are wine shows a fine dark ruby color and vivid floral, black produced by enologist, Piero Colosi cherry aromas accented by anise and herbal scents with a in collaboration with his father Pietro. Importer: Vias touch of earthiness. Firm acidity, not too tannic compared Imports, New York, NY to Nero d’Avola, and no oak. Fine, elegant and lightly grippy flavors with floral and spice notes.Caruso & Minini Cantine Colosi 2012 Dry White Sicily ($12) 87 Very pale 2011 Nero d’Avola Terre di Giumara ($15) 89 This Nero straw, this wine is a blend of three indigenous white d’Avola is a delicious fruit forward wine offering notes of

17 wild weeds and earth on the nose with a hint of huckleber- wine for everyday drinking offing attractive cherry fla- ry. It has an attractive earthiness on the palate with soft vors that are also Pinot Noir-like in character. Corvo 2012 gentle tannins. 1/3 of the wine gets just a bit of oak aging Irmana Grillo Sicily. ($12) 88+ This Grillo offer fresh citrus in 3 year old barrels. Great value. aromas with a light banana note. It is full and round on the palate with light flavors and a mineral edge. Pleasant Other Wines Tasted: Caruso & Minini 2009 Syrah Riserva and refreshing. Corvo 2012 Irmana Nero d’Avola & Frap- Delia Nivolelli ($24) 89 Caruso & Minini NV Marsala pato Sicily ($12) 89 This wine is a blend of 80% Nero Superiore Riserva Secco Sicily 90, Caruso & Minini 2011 d’Avola and 20% Frappato. Fresh red plum and cherry Tagos Grillo Vedemmia Tardiva Sicilia IGT 90+ on the nose, it is big and soft on the attack with freshness provided by Frappato. The wine offers bright red fruit on This winery owned by the Melia the palate and is very easy to drink and is not unlike a brothers began operations in the early good Cru Beaujolais. 1990s as “ garagistes. Today, the winery operates out of a restored COS Founded by three “baglio” near the famous temple of school friends, Giambattis- Segesta in western Sicily. It produces ta (Titta) Cilia, Giusto Oc- four wines from 50 ha of vineyards chipinti and Cirino (Rino) and the quality is excellent. Strano in 1980, COS is Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY a natural winery in the Vittoria region that started Ceuso 2011 Scurati Nero d’Avola Sicily ($15) 89 This Nero off with three hectares and d’Avola has a dark ruby color and youthful aromas of today owns 30. The name derives from the first letter of ripe plum, blackberry and earth. On the palate it is fruit their last names. Fascinated by ancient wine methods, forward with a hint of smoke, soft round tannins, good they work with 400 liter clay amphorae jars called balance and a long finish. Aged for 8 months in cement Pithos, similar to those used by the ancient Greeks to vats and three months in bottle. Ceuso 2010 Fastaia Sicily make wine . They make nine different wines, including ($27) 88 Fastaia is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, a sweet moscato. The COS wines are innovative and 40% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. It has a dark ruby color out standing. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY and aromas of ripe black prunish fruit, smoke, herbs and licorice. Aged in old cement vats for 18 months and in COS 2011 Ramì Sicily ($30) 90 A 50-50 blend of Inzolia bottle for 4 months before release, it reveals a ripe mouth and Grecanico, co- fermented in concrete vats with 10 feel, firm round tannins, good structure and a long fin- days skin contact, Ramì has a deep gold color, with ish. Ceuso 2008 Ceuso ($38) 91 A blend of 50% Nero strong acacia and dried herbs bouquet. Low yields con- d’Avola, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. tribute to a rich, nutty mid-palate accented by full, dried Opaque ruby. Black and dark red berry aromas followed fruit flavors and a chalky texture. Distinctive and full fla- by concentrated and earthy black fruit and roasted flavors vored, made in an “earthy” style, there is good acidity and on the palate. Lush with soft full mouth feel, round firm tan- deep character which suggests keeping a couple of years nins and a lingering finish. will reveal more detail. COS 2010 Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG Sicily ($35) 92 Made using co-fermentation which The Corvo Winery is one of helps to fix a deeper color, (dark ruby-violet), the wine Sicily’s oldest and best known showcases a deep lovely black cherry, lightly gamy and wineries. Originally founded in definite raspberry-fresh bouquet. Chalky, rich texture, fresh 1824 by Giuseppe Alliata, duke but earthy flavors and good length highlight this denser of Salaparuta, Corvo became than usual Cerasuolo. While a bit oaky on the finish, there one of the best -selling Italian is excellent freshness with fine tannins and length. COS wines in the US in the 1970s 2007 Contrada Sicily ($85) 92+ A pure Nero d’Avola aged and 1980s. It is currently owned and operated by two years in large oak botti (large casks usually 10 to 40 ILLVA di Saronno, a northern Italian drinks company hl) and from a 60 year old vineyard. Contrada has a which also owns Duca di Salaparuta and Florio. One medium dark ruby-garnet color, indicating some maturity. of the largest wineries in Sicily today, Corvo purchases Intense aromas of plum, black licorice, dark berry and grapes from growers all over the island and produces some gaminess are framed by medium plus body and fine close to a 1 million cases of good quality low-budget tannins. Solid yet with some elegant acidity on finish. De- wine annually. licious and multi-layered. COS 2012 Frappato Sicily ($30) 92 Medium ruby-violet; the color of cru Beaujolais!. Lively Corvo 2011 Bianco Sicily ($12) 88 The Corvo Bianco is an cherry, raspberry and floral aromas lead to medium bod- easy drinking wine made of Inzolia and Grecanico. Fer- ied lovely deep berry flavors. Elegant and nervy with fine mented in stainless steel, it shows good acidity and fresh- tannins and fresh finish, there is real length to this wine, ness on the palate and on the finish. Corvo 2011 Rosso and good dry finish.COS 2011 Nero di Lupo Sicily ($30) ($12) 88 The Corvo Rosso is a blend of Nero d’Avola and 90 This 100% Nero d’Avola is fermented for 12 months in Nerello Mascalese. It is a delicious light and flavorful cement tank and no wood. It is dark and spicy, peppery

18 and elegant. Medium weight. Round tannins. Young vines. Other Wines Tasted: Cottanera 2012 Etna Bianco Sicily 88 COS 2011 Pithos Bianco Sicily ($40) 93 100% Grecanico. Cottanera 2009 Sole di Sesta Syrah Sicily 90 Cottanera Made in the ancient style using amphorae, Pithos Bianco 2008 Nume Sicily 89 has a full gold color, and a rich dried apricot, apple-skin and nutty nose and flavor. Dry, with a sherry-like hint of Cusumano is one of the savory nuts and vanilla, but not oxidized, it reveals el- larger family owned and egant, just slightly tannic flavors which confer fuller texture operated wineries in and length and suggest the wine can age a few years Sicily. It has a diverse too. A very distinctive complex wine. COS 2011 Pithos portfolio of wines from Rosso Sicily ($40) 91 A 60-40 blend of Nero d’Avola and indigenous and interna- Frappato crushed into, fermented and aged 8 months in tional grape varieties. amphorae. Medium ruby color. The bouquet is lovely, Its vineyards consist with hints of cedarwood, mineral/graphite, and black fruit. of: Ficuzza a 189 ha The palate shows fine but– firm tannins, good acidity and property at 700-800 m enough dry extract to buffer the other components. Lovely in the district of Palermo used mainly for the production yet different with definite gamy notes, there is still pretty of its white wines; San Giacomo, a 140 ha vineyard in strawberry/clove and black pepper flavors on the finish. Butera used for its flagship Nero d’Avola; and Presti e One of the best “ancient” wines being made today. Pegni, a 70 ha estate in Alcamo used for its red blends, Noà and Benuara. Brothers Diego and Alberto Cu- The Cottanera company sumano manage the operation. The wines produced was started in the early here are generally of a very high quality. Importer: 1990s by Guglielmo Vin Divino, Chicago, IL Cambria (deceased) and his brother Enzo. Located Cusumano 2012 Alcamo Sicily ($12) 89 The 2012 Alcamo on the northern slope of is a blend of 60% Catarratto, 30% Grecanico and 10% ar- Mt. Etna in Castiglione di omatic grapes. It has light fragrant aromas and a creamy Sicilia, the estate, consists of 55 ha planted to vine- palate of orchard fruit and melon. It spends 4 months on yards at 700 mts. Initially planted with international lees in stainless steel and shows notes of light pepper and varieties, the vineyards now include native grapes like bitter almond on the finish. Cusumano 2012 Insolia ($12) 89 Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Carricante. The Insolia reveals aromas of ripe orchard fruit with a hint Enzo runs the company with children of Guglielmo. The of banana.. It is soft on the attack contact with the skins. wines are well-made and stylish. Importer: Banville & Cusumano 2012 Nero d’Avola Sicily ($12) 88 This dark Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY ruby Nero d’Avola is fresh and easy drink with flavors of red berries and plum. 20% whole clusters, it is aged in Cottanera 2012 Barbazzale Bianco Sicily ($16) 90+ Floral, stainless steel with good fruitiness on the mid palate and slightly lemony aromas with orange accents. Very pretty, big tannins on the finish. Cusumano 2012 Cubìa Sicily bright flavors with good minerality accenting the fresh fin- ($21) 90 This 100% Insolia is fermented in 20 hectoliter ish. Quite lively Viognier adds some weight and tropical barrels and spends 6 months on the lees and 8 months in notes, while the high acidity, fresh and somewhat salty- barrel. It exhibits a golden yellow color with ripe tropical mineral tang on finish may be the Inzolia’ s contribution to fruit on the note with a hint of banana and mango and this delicious blend. Great Value. Cottanera 2009 Barba- oak. It has a silky texture on the palate with excellent acid- zzale Rosso Sicily ($16) 90 Medium violet-ruby color. For ity and freshness on the finish Cusumano 2011 Jalé Sicily a freshly bottled wine, already very expressive with fresh ($30) 89 This 100% barrel fermented Chardonnay is rich floral (rose), wild cherry and slight toasty accent from oak and creamy with aromas of tropical fruit, hazelnut and aging. Pretty, delicate flavors with light tannins, classy, toasted oak. It reveals lots of coconut and tropical fruit on nicely focused mid-palate black cherry and anise fruit with the palate with good acidity and a crisp finish Cusumano a hint of mineral-earthiness. Very good especially at price, 2011 Benuara Sicily ($17) 91 A delicious blend of Nero and so easy to drink already! Cottanera 2009 Etna Rosso d’Avola and Syrah which complement each other well, Sicily ($50) 91 Medium ruby with just a hint of garnet. the color is solid ruby. The bouquet reveals ripe black . More roasted cherry and less floral, though a touch of berry, with licorice accents. Very round and easy to drink violet, than the Barbazzale. The flavors are also more min- already, the flavors show good richness, fine tannin and erally, with firmer tannins. Very good length; elegant, solid a hint of graphite minerality with real length. Cusumano and fresh with a lovely cherry finish. Cottanera 2009 2010 Sàgana Sicily ($35) 91 This 100% Nero d’Avola is Fatagione Sicily ($32) 89 The Fatagione is a blend of 85% a delicious wine. It has a dark ruby color and aromas of Nerello Mascalese and 15% Merlot and Syrah. Fermented blackberry fruit. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in stainless steel and aged for 10 months in French bar- in used oak barrels, it maintains it fruit flavors with lots of riques, 40% new, it displays a dark concentrated red and earthy mineral nuances . It is tightly structured and elegant black fruit character with an earthy, spicy nose. It has a on the palate with firm round tannins on the finish that refined palate with silky tannins on the finish. need time to resolve. Cusumano 2009 Noà Sicily ($42) 92 Noà is a blend of 40% Nero d’Avola, 30% Merlot

19 and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark ruby almost opaque The Donnafugata winery in color it offers black fruit with earthy aromas and a is owned by the Rallo hint of licorice. Soft and elegant on the palate, it spends family and was launched 12 months in French oak barriques and has round firm in 1983. It is situated in tannins and a very long finish. Cusumano 2012 Angimbé the town of Marsala and Sicily ($17) 89 A blend of 70% Insolia and 30% Chardon- sources grapes, both nay it reveals a ripe tropical fruit nose with hints of pine- indigenous and interna- apple and passion fruit. It is soft and creamy on the palate tional, from a neighbor- with attractive lemon-like acidity on the finish. Cusumano ing 642 acre- vineyard 2008 Moscato dello Zucco Sicily ( $32) 92 Dark gold at Contessa Entellina and 104 acres of Zibibbo vine- amber. This is a sweet wine with very high residual sugar yards on the island of Pantelleria. The winery follows (240 g/l), but it comes off as fresh and not overly sweet. modern and environmentally responsible viticultural It reveals a lovely rich mix of coconut, hazelnut, and dried prices and produces high quality wines, often blending apricot on a viscous yet elegant palate. Fermented in 40% international and indigenous varieties. Importer: Folio new and 60% used barriques Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA

Other Wines Tasted: Cusumano 2010 700 Vino Spumante Donnafugata 2012 Anthilia Sicily ($16) 88 The 20112 Ant- di Qualita Brut Sicily 89+ Cusumano 2012 Ramusa Sicily hilia is a blend of 55% Catarratto and lesser amounts of 90+ Inzolia and Chardonnay. It offers aromas of flowers, citrus and minerals on the nose. On the palate it exhibits fresh, De Bartoli Founded in 1978 by clean and uncomplicated flavors with crisp acidity on the Marco De Bartoli, this winery has finish. Donnafugata 2012 Lighea Sicily ($20) 90 Very played a pioneering role in reviv- floral-grapy aromas with a minerally back note. Dry fresh ing Marsala as a fine, artisanal and floral flavors with a chalky texture and taste finish with wine. In addition, he raced cars crisp acidity and good length. 12.5% 90. Donnafugata and served as president of the 2009 Chiaranda Sicily ($44) 90 This Chardonnay displays IRVV research institute. Today his a yellow straw color and aromas of fresh yellow fruit and son Renato makes what may be a hint of mango. Aged for 5to 6 months partly in oak and Sicily’s finest Marsala, including partly in cement, it is fresh and full on the palate showing the only non-fortified one, the fruit that mirrors the nose with very light hazelnut, coconut, Vecchio Samperi reviewed here. His brother Sebastiano mango and minerals on the finish. Very flavorful with a focuses on making the wines of Pantelleria. Importer: persistent finish. Donnafugata 2011 Sedàra Sicily ($16) Louis/Dressner, New York, NY 88 A medium ruby red, the Sedàra is a blend of Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. It boasts De Bartoli 2011 Bukkuram Passito di Pantelleria Sicily ($58) dark cherry and herbs on the nose that carry over to the 94 This red amber, 100% Zibibbo is exceptionally good palate with a fresh light bitter note. Finishes with firm, showing an intense concentrate of sweet orange, apple somewhat dry tannins. Donnafugata 2008 Tancredi Sicily and rhubarb. It’s just off dry and perfectly balanced with ($44) 89 Tancredi is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and a pure focus, freshness, and excellent acidity. Half the Nero d’Avola . Semi-opaque in color it offers aromas of grapes dry on the vine, while the other half are picked and black raspberry, cassis, and wood spice on the nose. It air-dried for three weeks. The vine dried grapes are picked is full and firm on the palate showing mostly dark fruit, and fermented and then the raisins are added to macer- minerals, and dark loam. It finishes with ripe fruit and ate for three months. Aged 30 months in 225 L French astringent tannins. Donnafugata 2008 Mille e una Notte oak. De Bartoli NV Marsala Superiore Riserva 10 Anni Sicily ($85) 90 This bottling is a blend of Nero d’Avola Sicily ($65) 94 Dark amber in color, this is benchmark and a small percentage of other varieties. It offers lean, Superiore with complex, dark aromas and flavors, complex dark fruit on the nose and a soft full palate. While nicely and perfectly balanced. Milk chocolate, burnt sugar and flavored, it is showing astringent tannins and high acidity caramel show on the nose, while the palate picks up more at this stage of development. Donnafugata 2010 Ben Ryè subtle flavors of roasted nuts, white chocolate and dried or- Passito di Pantelleria Sicily ($44) 93 Copper gold. This ange. Finishes long and just off-dry. 18.5° alc. De Bartoli Zibibbo-based passito shows intense fresh apricot and NV Vecchio Samperi Ventennaie Sicily ($78) 95 Medium blood orange aromas, followed by a lovely, soft attack amber. This non-fortified wine isn’t technically a Marsala and viscous, lightly sweet flavor. Made from grapes dried simply because it isn’t fortified, but it still carries 17.5° naturally in the sun and wind for 20-30 days. Aged in alcohol. Its’ the best Marsala type wine we’ve ever tasted, stainless steel and bottle. A 2006 vintage of this same intensely aromatic and elegant, dry, and concentrated on wine was even more voluptuous and integrated the palate with dry mineral extract on the finish.

20 palate with notes of lemon and a light honeyed accent. Duca di Salaparuta is one Beautiful,and clean--not complex but beautiful. Sicily’s oldest and most illustri- ous wineries. Established in Feudo Maccari Established in 1824 by Edoardo Alliata di 2000 by Antonio Moretti and Vllafranca, the winery earned his daughter Monika, this 250 a reputation for consistent acre estate is located in Noto. quality of its wines into the It was assembled from numer- modern era. From the late ous owners and more that 50 1960s to 1997, the talented Franco Giacosa served as separate plots on the southern technical director and he was followed by several other hillsides near the town of Noto. excellent winemakers. Duca di Salaparuta is one of Vines existed in some parcels three historic brands owned by ILLVA di Saronno, a and in others they were planted to native varieties with northern Italian drinks company, the other two being the advice of consulting winemaker, Carlo Ferrini. The Corvo and Florio reviewed elsewhere. The wines of quality of the wines is very high. Importer: Kobrand Duca di Salaparuta are mainly sourced from estate Corp., Purchase, NY vineyards in Butera and Vajasindi Estate at Castiglione di Sicilia on Mt. Etna and as a group are excellent Feudo Maccari 2012 Grillo Sicily ($15) 90 Medium yellow- wines. Importer: Corvo Wines USA green color. Classic Grillo nutty aroma is enlivened by dis- tinctly floral-herb scents, which lead to sophisticated flavors Duca di Salaparuta 2012 Kados Sicily ($25) 91 Grown suggesting white peach, and mineral-oil flavors surprisingly in one of the best sites near Trapani on sandy-limestone less herbal than the nose suggests. A sophisticated wine soils, this shows strong Grillo character. While recently produced from 10-year-old alberello vines. Feudo Mac- bottled, it already reveals nutty, peach-tropical fruit aromas cari 2011 Nero d’ Avola ($15) 88 Fermented in stainless with fresh fruity and crisp flavors. Slightly chalky texture steel, this Nero d’Avola displays a dark earthy color with from aging on fine lees for a few months adds weight and ruby highlights and blackberry fruit on the nose. It is very interest, while the lemony finish is accented by some spicy ripe and densely flavored on the palate with a hot finish. white pepper notes. A very clearly defined yet rich wine. Feudo Maccari 2010 Saia Sicily ($30) 89 This 100 Nero Duca di Salaparuta Passo delle Mule Sicily ($25) 91+ This d’Avola from a ripe vintage spends 12 months in French 100% Nero d’Avola boasts a medium dark red color with oak. It is ripe in style offering noses of black fruit, choco- aromas of ripe cherry, vanilla and toasted oak. Sourced late and tobacco on plate. A huge wine, extracted with from the high altitude Suor Marchesa estate in southern firm somewhat hard tannins. Over the top in extraction like Sicily, it reveals good acidity and freshness on the palate a ripe Zinfandel and hot on the finish. with excellent structure and a long finish. Duca di Sala- paruta 2009 Làvico Sicilia ($25) 91 Làvico is an attractive Other Wines Tasted: Feudo Maccari 2008 Maharis Sicily bottling of Nerello Mascalese sourced from the Vajasindi 90 Feudo Maccari 2011 Sultana Moscato di Noto Passito estate situated on the volcanic slopes of Mt. Etna at 700m Sicily 91. Feudo Maccari Vino Spumante Rose Brut Sicily 89 altitude. Dark red cherry in color, it is intensely flavored with spicy red berry fruit. smoke and a light tobacco note. Located in the province of Cal- Aged 12 months in small oak casks, it is elegant on the tanissetta, Feudo Principi di Butera palate with high acidity and a long satisfying finish. While consists of 360 ha, 180 ha planted grown on Etna (Castiglione di Sicilila), this wine is bottled mainly with Nero d’Avola, Inzo- at the main winery in Casteldaccia. Duca di Salaparuta lia (40%) and other international 2010 Nawàri Pinot Nero Sicily ($40) 91 The Nawàri Pinot varieties (60%). The Zonin family Nero is also sourced from the Vajasindi estate on the has been owners of this estate since slopes of Mt. Etna. It is medium ruby red and offers aro- 1997, once owned by Prince of De- mas of red berry fruit and a hint of mint with lots of vanilla liella, part of the Italian Royal family. The vineyards are oak at this point. Aged for 12 months in fine grained oak of calcareous and clay soils, have a density of 5,000 barriques, it is soft and full on the palate with fine, firm plants per hectare. and are irrigated as needed. A tannins and high acidity on the finish. Duca di Salaparuta low spurred cordon system is used. .Franco Giacosa, 2008 Duca Enrico Sicily ($59) 92+ Duca di Salaparuta’s who originally identified the property for Zonin, served vines grow on a limestone-sandy site. Deep colored, the as winemaker until a couple of years ago; Antonio bouquet reveals rich, potent and quite dark fruit aromas Cufari serves as winemaker today. The high end with hints of vanilla-oak and a hint of roasted fruit. Full Deliella,100% Nero d’Avola, is the estate’s best wine. bodied and well-structured with fine tannins and good Importer: Casa Vinicola Zonin USA, Charlottesville, VA acidity, this vintage will definitely benefit from 6-8 years aging, though the kirsch-like flavors particularly notable on Principi di Butera 2012 Insolia Sicily ($14) 88 Quite pro- the finish make it delicious now.Duca di Salaparuta NV nounced fresh lemon blossom and green almond aromas Ambar Moscato (.375L $12) 91 Yellow amber. Fresh, con- promise much, and the palate delivers with moderately centrated lemon with honeycomb notes. Gorgeous clean rich, tropical fruit flavors with just a hint of banana. Very

21 nicely done, with more depth than some other Insolia ricante and 20% Catarratto and spends two months on wines tasted. Principi di Butera 2011 Nero d’Avola Sicily lees. It has a fresh crisp nose with a hint of citrus and is ($14) 89 The 2011 Nero d’Avola has a dark ruby color bright, fresh and crisp on the palate with mineral notes. and aromas of dark red plum with some wood spice Very pleasant. Firriato 2011 Etna Rosso Sicily ($19) 89 The Aged in 50% Slavonian botti and 50% tonneaux, it is a Etna Rosso is composed of 80%Nerello Mascalese and pleasant tasting wine and easy to drink with soft tannins 20% Nerello Cappuccio. It spends six months in barriques on the palate but finishing with firmness and good length. and reveals aromas of black cherry with lovely fruit purity Give the wine time for aeration. Principi di Butera 2011 on the nose. It has a soft and expressive palate and. fills Syrah Sicily ($14) 90 The 2011 Syrah offers dark plum fruit the mouth with dark red fruit, cracked pepper, and a long and spice with hints of spice, tobacco, forest floor and finish. Firriato 2011 Favinia Passulè Sicily ($42) 90 Dark vanilla on the nose. The palate shows good balance with gold amber. This is a 100% Zibibbo from the Isola di Fa- dark plum fruit, chalky tannins, and a touch of astringency vignana, located about 7 km from the west coast of Sicily, on the finish. Shows northern Rhone earthy graphite. dried partly on the vine, partly in the sun. The wine shows Principi di Butera 2008 Deliella Sicily ($20) 92 This 100% an intense, almost pungent nose of apricot. It’s soft, round Nero d’Avola reveals a dark ruby color and aromas of and very concentrated, showing honeyed apricot on a vis- earthy blackberry and chocolate. It is ripe,and full fla- cous palate, finishing dry despite its 200 g/l RS. Firriato vored on the palate with prominent chocolate and caramel 2010 Harmonium Sicily ($44) 92 Medium deep ruby-violet notes and some pepper. It finishes with good length and color. Fine, black berry and some light peppered aromas. richness with hints of wood spice and soft tannins. Only a Firm tannins, and sporting rich oaky flavors, the palate is touch of heat on the finish limits the wine. quite chewy though with solid dark berry-plum fruit lurk- ing in the background. Firriato 2010 L’ Ecru Passito Sicily Other Wines Tasted: Principi di Butera 2011 Riesi Sicily 88, ($45) 93 Amber gold. This elegant, superbly balanced Principi di Butera 2006 Deliella Sicily 91 wine is mostly Muscat with about 10% Malvasia. While it shows high density of dried apricot and herbal rosemary, Created in 1987 by Salva- it also has a bright, uplifting elegance. Finishes tasting dry tore and Vinzia di Gaetano, despite the 150 g/l RS. The grapes are partly dried on Firriato is one of the largest the vine and partly picked and dried in the sun. Firriato wine producers in Sicily. It 2012 Quater Sicily ($35) 89 The Quarter blends four is located in Paceco just indigenous white grapes in one glass: Grillo, Catarratto, east of the city of Trapani, Carricante, and Zibibbo. The blend spends 4 months in but purchases grapes throughout Sicily. It has four es- stainless steel and offers floral, Muscat and lemon notes. tates in the west and one on Mt. Etna (Tenuta Cavane- It reveals interesting, complex flavors with herbal and citrus ra) of 11 hectares. Stefano Chioccioli of Tuscany is fruit notes with very good acidity. Firriato 2010 Ribeca Sic- consulting enologist. It owns 320 hectares (790 acres) ily ($38) 91 Made from the nearly extinct local variety Per- of vineyards and produces more than 5 million bottles ricone, Ribeca shows a pretty medium-full ruby color. Dark of wine annually. During late 1990s it had Australian berry aromas are accented by definite vanilla-oak which and NZ enologists. Importer: Soilair Selection, New somewhat obscures. Firm and minerally black fruit flavors York, NY with slightly lean tannins. Distinctive and inviting. Firriato 2011 Santagostino Sicily ($19) 90 This is a 50/50 Nero Firriato 2012 Favinia La Muciara Sicily ($42) 92 From the d’Avola and Syrah blend that spends 8 months in French island of Favignano just off the coast from Trapani, this ele- barrique. It reveals black cherry, blackberry, with a loam gant, minerally-herbal scented blend of Zibibbo and Grillo note. It is tight, firm but freshly flavored with a nice focus, showcases chalky flavors, strong fruit extract and a fine ripe gentle tannins and along pure finish. saline finish in a medium full-bodied and distinctly impres- sive package. Firriato 2012 Cavanera Etna Bianco ‘Ripa di Florio This is Marsala’s most famous Scorciavacca’ Sicily ($37) 91 Delightfully sleek, minerally winery, having been the first estab- and herbal nose with unique almond accents. Better than lished by a Sicilian, Vicenzo Florio, in average acidity for Etna white wines is complemented by 1832. Today it’s owned by the big a fairly full chalky texture (Carricante speaking). Nicely fo- ILLVA di Saronno drinks group. Its el- cused and precise with good length, this is a fine example. egant Marsala wines are made using Firriato 2012 Chiaramonte Inzolia Sicily ($17) 89 Showing only Grillo and are aged 8 years in a slightly reductive, but fresh, steely citrus-herbal aroma, the barrels stored in Florio’s huge 164 this zesty white does have enough pear-guava flavors to m long, old warehouse. Giuseppe yield a flavorful easy to drink wine for early consumption. Garibaldi began his quest to unify Italy in Marsala in Firriato 2011 Chiaramonte Nero d ‘Avola Sicily ($17) 89 1860; he later returned to Marsala to celebrate his Vinified in stainless steel and aged in American oak for victory at the Florio winery. Unfortunately, Florio’s best six months.. Full in the mouth with good structure, it reveals quality Marsala wines are not imported to the US. earthy herbal flavors with blackberry and a concentrated Importer: Banfi Vintners, NY slightly bitter note on the finish. Firriato 2012 Etna Bianco Sicily ($19) 88 This Etna Bianco is a blend of 80% Car-

22 Florio Donna Franca Marsala Superiore Riserva 15 Anni Nerello Capucco. The wine is medium dark ruby garnet Sicily 93 Medium dark burnt sienna fading to gold at and has a fresh nose showing fresh dark red plum, and the rim. This Superiore offers spicy, kahlua like aromas. earth. Aged for12 months in used barriques, it has nicely The palate is bright and fresh with excellent balance integrated flavors excellent balance, although the barrel between sugar and acid, although the flavors are deep notes are somewhat prominent as this stage of develop- and dark—a concentrate of coffee, fits, and a hint of bitter ment. Girolamo Russo 2010 Feudo Etna Rosso Sicily ($55) chocolate. 90 g/l RS Florio 2009 Passito di Pantelleria 92 A warmer but less concentrated vintage than 2011, DOP Sicily 91 Orange amber. This Passito is dried on the from a lower, more sand-pumice infused vineyard, this is ground for 20 days and aged in oak barrels for 8 months. a wine to enjoy now for its immediacy. More ruby than It shows scents of tangerine, apricot, and tangy raisins garnet to color Earthier nose, less floral, but clear Nerello that are complemented on the palate by flavors of dried black and sour cherry notes (amarena in Italian). With apricots, sultanas, and just a hint of burnt sugar. 14.5% more minerality on the palate, less obvious fruit, firm tan- alc. Florio 2008 Passito Malvasia delle Liparí 92 Orange nins, yet a dense dusky, flavorful finish, it still shows aging amber. This passito made from Malvasia and Corinto potential over the next 5 years. An excellent and quite Nero grapes grown on the volcanic island of Salina is prototypical Etna Rosso. Girolamo Russo 2011 Ne Rina like drinking liquid velvet with its viscous, soft texture and Etna Bianco Sicily ($45) 92 Medium yellow color. Rich, sweet, long finish. It reveals gorgeous orange and apricot nutty-mineral yellow flower (broom, acacia) bouquet with marmalade accented by rosemary. The grapes on sun- a touch of herbs, too; quite vivid,. Medium bodied, crisp dried for 20 days, then pressed and fermented slowly and firm flavors with a full texture, nutty peppery flavors until fermentation stops and aged 6+ months in 225 L and a slightly bitter orange rind-like finish which contrib- oak barrels. 140 g/l RS and 13.5% alc. Florio NV Targa utes a nervy structure and adds to the length. Very strong Riserva 1840 Marsala Superiore Riserva SemiSecco Sicily Etna Bianco. 91 Light brown amber. This semi-dry wine is made only of Grillo grapes and aged 10 years in barrel. It’s soft, lightly Graci Alberto Graci is among the sweet with good acidity, showing date like aromas and top producers working the north flavors. Not real complex but delicious nonetheless. 70 g/l slope of Mt. Etna. His vineyards RS. Florio 2000 Terre Arse Marsala Vergine Sicily 92 The are situated at Passopisciaro at an just off-dry Terre Arse is a first rate Marsala Vergine made altitude of 600 to 1,100 meters and only of Grillo with excellent integration of flavors and his vines are densely planted in vol- excellent balance. It shows orange flowers, tea, apricot, canic soils ranging between 6,000 roasted nuts, and distinct rancio notes all interwoven on and 10,000 vines per hectare. Some a creamy palate, finishing with excellent length. The wine of the vines are on their own roots. comes from bush-trained vineyards facing the sea near the His Contrada Barbabecchi is situ- beach, aged 8 years in old oak barrels. 19° alc. ated at 1,000 meters and consists of 2 ha of pre-phyl- loxera Nerello Mascalese planted over 100 years ago. Other Wines Tasted: Florio NV Ambra Secco Dry Fine His Contrada Arcuria consists of 25 ha, 18 planted to Marsala Sicily 88; Florio NV Ambra Dolce Sweet Fine vines, mainly Nerello Mascalese and small amounts Marsala Sicily 88; Florio NV Moscato Sicily 88 of Carricante and Catarratto. Part of Arcuria includes ungrafted alberello (bush vines) planted at a density of Girolamo Russo 10,000 vines per hectare. Graci’s wines are excellent. Giuseppe Russo makes the Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC wines at this tiny boutique winery named after his Graci 2011 Arcuria Etna Bianco Sicily 89 Fine slightly father Girolamo Russo. The minty, herbal and nutty aromas showcasing the distinctive winery is located on Mt. Carricante character above all. Balanced, fresh, and not Etna in Passopisciaro and too high in acid. Solid, green pear finish. Fresh. Graci produces about 12,000 2011 Etna Rosso Quota 600 Sicily 91+ The Etna Rosso bottles per year. Giuseppe, who is also a pianist, Quota 600 is dark ruby red and shows fresh dark red ber- took over the family business in 2004. The operation ry fruit on the nose with hints of herbs and toast. Aged for has 15 hectares at 650 to 750 meters is divided into 18 months in large format barrels. It is soft on the palate three parcels. Giuseppi initially made his wine with with good freshness and acidity and a long finish. Graci help from Marco de Grazia, and now has Emiliano 2011 Arcuria Etna Rosso 90 Solid, light ruby-violet color. Farsini consulting . His wines consist of three labels. Fairly full on palate, with strong black cherry, floral (violet) ‘A Rina, Feudo and San Lorenzo. All are made from and graphite aromas. These are framed by structured, firm Nerello Mascalese grapes. The wines are first class tannins and a little less mid-palate density than the above, in quality. Importer: Pannebianco, New York, NY/ as it originates from younger vines. Made under the guid- Oliver McCrum, Oakland, CA ance of Carlo Ferrini of Tuscany. Capable of aging 4-5 years, but not as much finesse. Girolamo Russo 2011 ‘A Rina Rosso Sicily ($34) 90 The ‘A Rina is a blend of 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5%

23 Mazzei--Zisola This estate located just Cantine Intorica is a small family owned outside Noto is owned and operated by and managed business established in the Mazzei family from Tuscany, one 1930 that produces good to excellent of Italy’s most renowned and respected Marsala. Francesco Intorcia is the current families. The 50 hectare estate consists owner. Importer: Vinilandia, Kittery ME of 21 hectares of vineyards planted at a density of 5,500 vines per hectare trained in the traditional alberello style. Intorcia NV Marsala Vergine Riserva 1980 30 Anni Sicily The vineyard is mainly planted with 88 Medium brown in color, this reserve is made of wines Nero d’Avola and small amounts of that have been in barrel at least 30 years. Showing notes Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The es- of dates, dark caramel and burnt sugar, it is well balanced tate produces two wines, Zisola, a 100% Nero d’Avola and dry on a lightly weighted palate. Intorcia NV Marsala and Doppiozeta (ZZ), a blend of Nero d’Avola, Syrah Vergine Soleras Sicily 87 Amber brown in color, this is a and Cabernet Franc. This estate produces high quality straightforward Marsala showing notes of dark corn syrup, wines. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, honey, and molasses. It’s surprisingly dilute on the palate, FL but pleasantly dry. Mazzei 2011 Zisola Nero d ’Avola Sicily ($26 ) 92 Full Irene Badàla Etna Rosso 2011 92+ All from old vines at dark ruby color. From a cooler year, here the red fruit Contrada Santo Spirito; 2000 bottles. Made under the (cherry, black raspberry) aromas predominate, along with guidance of Marc de Grazia. Full deep ruby-violet. Ripe, a loamy earthiness. The palate is quite rich yet fresh, with deep black cherry fruit on nose, with raspberry-violet ac- some graphite-cedar flavors, fine tannins very forward cents like Chambolle Musigny. Quite full on palate, though fruit with hints of plum and some subtle framing vanilla not especially mineral; high extract, and rich but fine oak (1/3 new French oak, but also partly aged in steel). tannins. Quite stylish and long, this has real promise, and A quite poised example of Nero d’Avola from its original can take 2-4 years aging. area that doesn’t stray over into the chocolaty overripe style. Mazzei 2010 Zisola Nero d ’Avola Sicily ($26) 89 Le Vigne di Eli These wines are made by Marc de The 2010 Zisola Rosso has a dark ruby hue and red fruit Grazia on his daughter’s behalf. The wines are mod- aromas with notes of herbs, earth, and tar. It is fresh and erately priced and offer outstanding values. A good full-bodied on the palate with bright fruit notes, high acid- percentage of the income from the sales of the wines ity and a rich satisfying finish. Mazzei 2010 Doppiozeta is contributed to the pediatric department at Children’s Sicily ($54) 93 The 2010 Doppiozeta is a blend of Nero Hospital, Florence. Importer: A Marc de Grazia D’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. A Selection, Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY and other lavish and complex wine, it boasts a dark chocolate importers cherry nose with assertive charred oak notes. Aged for 15 months in barrique, 50% new, it is fresh and bright on the Le Vigne di eli 2011 Etna Bianco Sicily ($25) 90+ From a palate showing loads of lovely up front fruit and chocolate vineyard on the eastern slope of Etna near Milo, prized with toasted oak notes and a long finish. Mazzei 2008 especially for its white wines. Made from old vines. Vi- Doppiozeta Sicily ($54) 91 The 2008 Doppiozeta is brant acidity combined with minerally herbal scents. The from a warm vintage and is a riper wine than the 2010. It flavors show the vibrant fresh and tangy character of white shows a touch of prune, chocolate, charred oak, and mint wines from this section of Etna where it is high, more humid on the nose. On the palate, it offers velvet black fruit, and to some degree, cooler. Medium-bodied, stylish and lovely texture with graphite and minerals, and finishes with elegant, very invigorating wine. Le Vigne di eli 2010 San ripe soft tannins. Lorenzo Sicily ($43) 91 The San Lorenzo is medium ruby in color and offers lovely fresh, dense and earthy aromas. Mirabella This label is owned by Giuseppe Bianchi It is rich and lush in the mouth with red fruit and earth Distillati, under the management of Pino Bianchi and notes, good acidity, finishing long with ripe tannins. 2010 his son Claudio. The firm was started by Leone Bianchi Le Vigne di eli Etna Rosso($25) 93 The Contrada is Moga- in Marsala in the 1950s. Mirabella makes a full range nazzi. Most of Moganazzi is 700m in altitude. Medium of Marsalas, including egg-cream (cremovo), mostly ruby-garnet color. Floral, lovely raspberry and cherry with aimed at the broad consumer market. violet and darker berry aromas. Finely tannic, with deli- ciously juicy, yet graphite-minerally black fruit, anise and Mirabella Marsala Vergine Riserva 20 Anni 90 Medium cherry flavor with subtle violet tones. Very well balance, topaz color. Aromatically complex and well balanced and capable of improving over the next 5-7 years. One of on the palate, this Marsala shows notes of butterscotch, the classiest Etna Rossi tasted. tangerine marmalade, and orange pekoe tea. It has a medium long finish and is quite delicious but rather lightly weighted. Made of Catarrato and Grillo grapes. Mira- bella 1989 Marsala Superiore Riserva 91 Brown topaz. This is a delicious, easy drinking Marsala showing notes of

24 walnuts, figs, and dates. It’s soft and mellow in the mouth tannic, with good acidity and lovely raspberry, mineral fla- with good balance and length and prominent notes of vors, the wine shows good length and real elegance in an walnuts and figs on the finish. While it doesn’t have the earthy style. A very stylish, if “down to earth” wine that complexity of the best Marsalas, it shows good depth. is nearing its peak. Occhipinti 2012 SP 68 Sicily ($27) 89 Very fragrant, floral-herb aromas. Round, soft flavors, with The Morgante Winery was established good length and delicacy that is quite distinctive, showing in 1994 by Antonio Morgante and his intriguing overtones of rosemary, wild herbs (garrigue). sons, Carmelo and Giovanni. It is lo- cated in southern Sicily near Agrigento Palari This tiny winery located in the and has a little over 60 ha under vine hills of the Straight of Messina, was built at 300 to 600 m. Winemaking is in by the Sicilian- born architect Salvatore the hands of Ricardo Cotarella, one of Geraci and his brother, agronomist Italy’s finest winemakers. The winery’s Giampiero. It consists of seven hectares two wines are reviewed here: a standard Nero d’Avola of old alberello- trained vineyards of pri- and the Don Antonio Nero d’Avola Riserva. Both marily Nerello Mascalese and Nerello wines are outstanding. Importer: A Leonardo Lo Cas- Cappuccio with small amounts of little cio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ known Italian varieties like Acitana, Galatena and Calabrese. Since its first commercial Morgante 2010 Nero D’Avola ($18) 91 Medium dark ruby. vintage in 1994 Palari has been highly acclaimed and This Nero d’Avola displays a lovely nose of ripe black deservedly so. The winery also produces a Rosso del cherry and plum with charred oak and spicy balsamic Soprano and Santa.Ne’ not reviewed here. Importer: notes. It is a very juicy wine, soft and round and packed Panebianco, New York, NY with fresh flavor. It has good acidity and structure with sweet tannins on the finish.Morgante 2009 Nero d’Avola Palari 2007 Faro Sicily ($65) 90+ Medium ruby red with Riserva Don Antonio Sicily ($42) 93 The Nero d’Avola aromas of violet, black raspberry liquour, and gamey Riserva Don Antonio reveals a lovely powerful nose of notes. It’s soft and supple on the palate with dried herbs, tobacco, charred oak balsamic, and a hint of bitter choco- some notes of vanilla and firm round tannins. Aged for 12 late. It has a velvet textured palate with layered flavors, months in Rocais oak barrels and 12 months in bottle. A showing dark red fruit with fresh, unctuous and earthy delicious wine and one of the classics of Sicilian artisanal nuances It has firm round tannins, think extract and a very winemaking. long finish. Passopiscaro Owned by Andrea Occhipinti This small artisanal Franchetti of Tenuto di Trinoro in winery is owned by the young and Tuscany, Passopiscaro is located talented winemaker Arianna Occhip- on the slopes of Mt. Etna. The inti. She launched her winemaking estate consists of 200 hectares with venture in 2004 with only one hect- the vines averaging 80 years in are and today produces wines from age. Franchetti has 8 hectares of 12+ hectares of vineyards in Vittoria old vines at 650-1000 meters and which are cultivated organically follows organic viticulture with no without the use of chemicals either herbicides or fertilizers. Franchetti in the cellar or in the vineyard. She made his first wines in 2001 which were blends of produces wines from Frappat , Nero Nerello Mascalese with Merlot and Petite Verdot. D’Avola, Muscat and Albanello, an ancient grape that However, by 2003 he decided he could make stunning isn’t produced very much anymore. Arriana’s uncle, wines without blending. The estate makes 2,300 cases who stimulated her interest in wine. is Giusto Occhipinti annually, and the wines are all first rate.Importer: T. of COS wines. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, Edward Wines, Ltd. New York, NY New York , NY Passopisciaro 2010 Rosso Sicily ($45) 90 A blend of the Occhipinti 2011 Frappato Sicily ($42) 92 This 100% Frap- vineyards. Pale ruby-garnet (cooler year). Delicate floral- pato is sourced from 50-year- old vineyards. Dark ruby mineral nose. Lighter flavors with slightly firmer tannins, in color it offers earthy red plum and spicy aromas on the though quite elegant for drinking over the next 1-3 years. nose followed by complex and layered gamey red fruit Passopisciaro 2011 Guardiola Sicily ($40) 91 The first vin- flavors with considerable minerality on the palate. . Fer- tage for this wine. Medium ruby-violet. Grown at 800m. mented in stainless steel and aged in 25 hl Slavonian Botti, Very pure black fruit, violet nose with graphite nuances. it shows beautiful balance and structure, finishing long and Integrated tannins, fairly full mid-palate and real sense pure with big tannic grip. Occhipinti 2006 Siccagno Sicily of flesh make this a complete wine, based upon some of ($42) 92 Medium deep ruby violet color. Some gami- the oldest vines, some pre-phylloxera, that Passopisciaro ness along with cassis and violet on the nose, with a touch owns. 2011 Passopisciaro Parcaria Sicily ($90) 93+ From of graphite and some animal notes add nuance. Finely Contrada Parcaria, a south-facing vineyard at just 650

25 meters. Medium ruby-violet. Richer dark cherry and the palate and finishes with a light sweet note. Pellegrino black berry nose shows less earthy-graphite scents. Deep 2011 Duca di Castelmonte Zibibbo Sicily 90+ Perfumed flavors, with firm tannins are balanced by good fruit, yet Muscat like aromas with a marzipan note. Fresh and off- this will need 5-8 years to soften and evolve, being a more dry with a light bitter almond note on the finish. Shows powerful wine. 2011 Passopisciaro Rampante Sicily ($60) good balance with excellent acidity. Pellegrino NV Duca 93 From Contrada Rampante at 950-1000 meters. Lovely di Castelmonte Zibibbo Sicilia IGP 91 An attractive, fresh medium ruby-violet color. Lively, elegant black cherry, off-dry wine showing a perfume of Muscat and a touch of lightly floral-violet perfume which adds an enchanting deli- marzipan. It has great balancing acidity and a nice, light cacy. High-toned elegant and fresh flavors, almost ethe- bitter almond note on the finish with 16% alc. real, though backed by firm tannins. The wine’s high-wire balancing act between Pinot noir-like finesse of fruit and Pietradolce bouquet and Nebbiolo-like tannin will reward a few years Established in 2005, Pietradol- aging, but perhaps better enjoyed now with roast duck. ce is in the town of Solicchiata 2009 Franchetti Rosso Sicily ($150) 91. Labeled with his on the northern slopes of Mt. own name, Franchetti Rosso is made from the distinctive if Etna. The company has 11 somewhat unknown Cesanese d’Affile grape that Franchetti hectares of vineyards located brought in from its native area in the mountains about 25 between 600-900 meters miles east of Rome, with 20% Petit Verdot. An indigenous above sea level. The soil is Italian variety transplanted to a different mountain area light and stony, full of minerals (1000m), the result is rich, fresh and distinctive, though offered by the volcano. The large-framed! Deep ruby-violet color. Dense potent black vines planted are those typical fruit-cassis, and mineral-violet bouquet. Focused tannins to the area- Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccino frame quite full, layered fruit flavors, with the alcohol some- and Carricante. They look to traditional methods of what noted on the finish, yet overall quite balanced. grape growing combined with modern techniques to provide the best wine possible. The quality of the Carlo Pellegrino Founded in 1880 wines is excellent. Only the Etna Rosso is currently by Paolo Pellegrino, the historical cel- imported. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, lars of Carlo Pellegrino are located CA in downtown Marsala with over 40 thousand hl in oak barrels and casks. Pietradolce 2012 Archineri Etna Bianco Sicily 90 The The winemaker is Gaspare Catalano. Archineri is a Carricante-based wine sourced from 100- Unfortunately none of the premium 120 year-old old pre phylloxera vines grown at 850 m Marsalas and passitos we tasted in Sic- altitude. Fermented in stainless steel, it reveals an excel- ily are currently imported to the United lent palate of minerals, herbs and white flowers ripe with States. However, two basic Marsalas good acidity and balance. Pietradolce 2011 Archineri not reviewed here, are imported. Importer: Frederick Etna Rosso Sicily ($34) 89 The Archineri Rosso is a 100% Wildman, New York NY Nerello Mascalese offering fresh red fruit, earth and a note of tar. Aged for nine months in 500 L tonneaux, it is Pellegrino NV 1880 Marsala Superiore Riserva Sicily 90 well balanced with good acidity and is quite elegant with This medium brown amber Superiore shows dried apri- a chalky mineral finis Pietradolce 2012 Etna Rosato Sicily cot and brown sugar with a light vanilla note. It’s richly 90 This rosé of Nerello Mascalese has a pale orange aromatic and of medium sweetness. Made of Grillo and pink color with aromas of anise peach and apple. It is Catarratto aged in Slavonian oak. 18° alc. Pellegrino full of flavor with dense cherry and chalky minerals on the 1880 Marsala Vergine Soleras Secco Sicily 92 Amber finish. Pietradolce 2010 Vigni Barbagalli Sicily 92 This orange. Rancio perfume of baked apricot, nuts, and notes wine combines power and elegance. It is a selection of of brown sugar and orange. Medium dry palate picks the best parcels of Nerello Mascalese vines 80 to 100 these up as flavors with good acidity and a light bitter note years old and spends 20 months aging in tonneaux. It on the finish. Superb. 92 Fruit from Trapani--Marsala and displays dried cherry aromas with a hint of vanilla and has Mazara del Vallo. Fortified with 5 year old brandy and an elegant velvet palate with a hint of vanilla and a long spends 5 years in Slavonian oak of 50 and 80 hl. 19% finish. This is the first year this wine was produced and it alc Pellegrino 2011 Duca di Castelmonte Centáre Bianco was highly successful. Sicily 89 A blend of Chardonnay and Insolia. Fragrant, ripe pear nose. Crisp and fresh with high acidity, pear flavors. Steely in character. 89 Went well with a plate of anchovies, finely chopped onion, and orange citrus bits. Pellegrino 2009 Duca di Castelmonte NES Passito di Pantel- leria 92 This red orange, lightly sweet dessert wine reveals superb balance and incredible length with aromas and flavors that cover the spectrum from dried cherry and tan- gerine to hints of almond and butterscotch. It’s creamy on

26 Planeta 2010 Santa Cecilia Nero d ’Avola Sicily ($ 43) 93 Planeta Established in 1985, 100 % Nero d’Avola. 14 months in Allier barriques (used). Planeta is a large family winery Dark ruby red. Violets, black raspberry, a bit savory. Full with operations in six estates with flavors of exotic spices, note of dark chocolate, with across Sicily. The estates in- huge depth and persistence. Ripe, soft tannins. Made from clude: Ulmo winery at Sambuca grapes in its native Noto area in extreme southeastern di Sicilia with 93 ha, Dispensa Sicily near the coast. Medium strong ruby color More with 161 ha at Menfi, Dorilli with red fruit aromas than black, with wild cherry and a pretty 34 ha at Vittoria, Buonivini at touch of raspberry; quite different from Nero d’Avola Noto, 51 ha, Feudo di Mezzo made further west. Firm acidity and very fine tannins. at Mt. Etna, 16 ha, and La Baronia at Capo Milazzo with 8 ha. Each estate produces different international Other Wines Tasted: Planeta 2012 Alastro Ulmo Vineyard and indigenous varietals and blends according to their Sicily 91, Planeta 2012 Eruzione 1614 Carricante Sicily 92, location. Planeta is a highly successful winery that Planeta 2011 Plumbago Sicily 91, Planeta 2012 Moscato produces wines of outstanding quality and individuality. Bianco Secco Sicily 91 The winery is jointly managed by Alessio, Francesca and Santi Planeta. Importer: Palm Bay International, Rapitalà is located outside Boca Raton, FL of Palermo near the town of Camporeale in northwestern Planeta 2009 Burdese Sicily ($42) 92 Burdese is a blend Sicily. Established in 1971, of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc.. It its vineyards consist of 225 is a big semi-opaque and well-structured wine with aromas ha (175 planted) of clay and of blackberry, cassis, and smoke. Aged for 14 months in sandy soils, with some lime- new French oak, it is meaty in character and finishes on stone, situated at an elevation Planeta 2011 Cerasuolo di Vittoria an elegant, chalky note. of 300 to 600 meters. The vineyards are divided into DOCG Sicily ($23) 91 Medium violet-ruby. Fresh, grapy- 180 parcels and grapes are vinified separately in a floral light red fruit bouquet with a touch of graphite. Ripe, new modern cellar, which holds French oak barriques fairly viscous medium-bodied flavors show good focus and and large format barrels. Tenuta Rapitalà produces depth for the area. Lovely fruit and light tannins provide a indigenous and international varieties and blends with good sense of proportion and yield a wine of Cru Beaujo- consistent quality. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Planeta 2011 Cerasuolo lais-like style with meatier flavors. Sons, New York, NY di Vittoria Classico DOCG Sicily ($33) 92 More purple-ruby than above wine, likely due to higher percentage of Nero. Rapitalà 2012 Grillo Sicily ($14) 89 Light yellow green. Fragrant, richer aromas with some cocoa-vanilla oak fram- Fragrant aromas of lime zest with a hint of banana and ing dark cherry and some pepper scents. More layered, herbs on the nose. Very pleasant lychee and tangerine though less ‘fat’ than the above wine and with more fresh on the palate with a crisp lingering finish. Rapitalà 2012 acidity, this is altogether a firmer wine that shows both Casali Catarratto Sicily ($21) 88 A blend of Catarratto excellent finesse, deeper structure and capability to age and Chardonnay the Casali displays a yellow straw hue Planeta 2011 Chardonnay Sic- 2-3 years and improve. with waxy aromas and a ripe orchard fruit note. It has a ily ($43) 91 This barrel fermented Chardonnay is one of medium weight creamy palate with rather subdued fruit, Planet’s finest wines produced from international varieties. mostly ripe apple with a light spice note. Casali means Dark yellow straw in color, it offers aromas of butterscotch, house of God in Arabic Rapitalà 2011 Grand Cru Char- vanilla, and pineapple on the nose with notes of coconut donnay Sicily ($40) 91 Medium gold straw. Rich vanilla that are mirrored on the palate. Aged in 50% new French oak nose but not overdone with hints of tropical fruit. oak, the palate shows good weight, balance and persis- Lovely integrated palate, rich but with good acidity. Excel- Planeta 2012 Cometa Sicily ($43) 91 tence. Made from lent balance, velvet mouth feel, long finish Fermented in 100% Fiano cuttings brought in from Irpinia (its homeland), stainless steel and aged in oak 20% new oak for one yr.. and planted on clay soils. Lively, floral-orange blossom Rapitalà 2010 Solinero Syrah Sicily ($55) 91 This Syrah aromas enlivened by distinctive capsicum spiciness! Quite exhibits a dark ruby red hue and is richly aromatic. It is rich, with glyceriny mouth feel, there is plenty of Fiano ripe fruited with earth and cracked pepper notes and is orange blossom, peachy fruit balanced by medium acidity lovely on the attack, quite soft but with a richly flavored, to yield a long, focused wine. The touch of pepperiness in nuanced palate. Finishes clean, very flavorful, and with the finish adds individuality to this Fiano seldom seen out- good length. Rapitalà 2012 Cielo Daclamo Late Harvest side of Irpinia. One of the best white wines tasted in Sicily ($40) 91 Medium dark amber gold. This blend of Sauvi- Planeta 2011 Passito di Noto Sicily ($41) 92 this trip. Dark gnon and Catarratto displays an almost pungent botrytis straw. This air dried (for 45 days) 100% Moscato Bianco and mushroom nose. Viscous and rich on the palate, it passito shows saffron, tangy apricot, sultanas, orange and reveals good complexity with a honeyed earthy character, a hint of earth on the nose. But it’s the creamy, rich ripe finishing clean and bright with good acidity. Fresh tasting pineapple custard palate that wins the stars here. The finish more than dried fruit tasting. is long and medium sweet. Just 9.5% alc and 180 g/l RS.

27 Other Wines Tasted: Rapitalà 2012 Syrah Terroir Sicily 87, ripe fruit. It is nicely structured with good acidity on the Rapitalà 2012 Sire Nero Sicily, Rapitalà 2012 Nero d’Avola finish. Campo Reale Sicily 88, Rapitalà 2011 Nuhar Sicily 22 89, Rapitalà 2012 Rosato Sicily 88 Tasca d’Almerita Founded in 1830, Tasca d’Almerita Santa Anastasia (Abbazia) has been one of leaders of In 1980 this former abbey lo- Sicily’s quality wine revolu- cated in the province of Pal- tion and the reference point ermo was transformed into for ultra-high quality wine. a model wine estate with a The winery is located on the renovated winery and cellars Regaleali estate in the scenic completed in 2003. The rolling hills of the province vineyards consist of 80+ hectares at 200 to 400 meters of Caltanissetta and is one of the most beautiful in with a density of 3,500 vines per ha. Winemaker, Sicily. Tasca’s vineyards across four separate estates Vicenzo Nicoli produces wines from indigenous and total over 500 ha and are planted with international international varieties. Consulting winemaker Riccardo and indigenous varieties which are often blended in the Cotarella also lent a hand along the way. Importer: wines. The company is owned by Count Lucio Tasca, a Empson USA, Alexandria, VA descendent of the original owners) and is managed by himself and his sons Alberto and Giuseppe. Laura Orsi Santa Anastasia 2011 Nero d’Avola Contempo Sicily ($13) is winemaker, and Tuscan winemaker Carlos Ferrini, 87 Dark ruby red. Fruit forward with spicy dark red fruit. has served as consulting winemaker. Simple and soft on the palate, but rather one dimensional with a hint of a tanky note on the finish. Santa Anastasia Capofaro on the island of Salina produces sweet Mal- 2010 Passomaggio Sicily ($21) 88 A blend of 70% Nero d’ vasia on 6 hectares of land. The Whitaker Estate on the Avola and 30% Merlot. Sweet earth, dark red fruit, spice, island of Mozia west of Marsala was once a colony hint of balsamic on the nose. Slight bitterness on the palate where the Whitakers from England came to make wine with somewhat firm dry tannins on the finish. similar to that of Marsala. There are 7 hectares of the Grillo grapes. Tenuta Tascante in Mount Etna grows Setteporte is the brainchild of the Nerello Mascalese grape with 12 hectares of Piero Portali, whose property vines, 750 meters above sea level. Sallier de la Tour is one of the only ones on the in the northwest has 45 hectares and produces Syrah. south slopes of Etna at Bian- Importer: A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, cavilla. His family owns a fine Montvale, NJ restaurant in nearby Catania as well. He started making wine Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali 2012 Regaleali Bianco Sicily from the family’s 16 hectare ($15) 88 The Regaleali Bianco is an easy-to-drink- blend of estate about 30 years ago but three varieties--Inzolia, Catarratto, and Chardonnay. It has only started bottling in 2002 a floral bouquet and a clean fresh palate of orchard fruit on the advice of his friend, Michele Satta of Bolgheri in and citrus that is well balanced with a crisp finish. Tasca Tuscany. The vineyards lie between 650-800 meters, d’Almerita Regaleali 2011 Nozze d’ Oro Contea di Sclafani and he only bottles about 2000 cases of wine a year, DOC ($30) 90+ 60% Inzolia and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. the balance sold off in bulk. Marco de Grazia is cur- Quite fine fresh, herbal slightly appley and tropical aromas rently making Portali’s wine. As Piero puts it: “I just and flavors. The bright Sauvignon Blanc herb character want to drive my tractor in the vineyards and tend my and crisp acidity adds distinctive vivacity to the richer, babies.” Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Lake Success, mineral-nutty flavors from the Inzolia. Nicely done. Tasca NY D’Almerita 2010 Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali 2010 Chardon- nay Sicily ($60) 89 This Chardonnay has a yellow gold Setteporte 2010 Etna Rosso Sicily ($22) 89 Medium light color and aromas of tropical fruit and toasted oak. Aged ruby with red cherry fruit and earthy notes. Fermented in for nine months in 350 L barrels, it offers ripe tropical fruit, stainless steel, it is fruit forward, easy drinking with gentle smoky, sweet oak; and a fruity alcoholic finish. (15% alc). tannins. Simple, flavorful, and correct. Setteporte 2011 Tasca d’Almerita NV Diamante d’Almerita Sicilia IGT ($60) Nerello Mascalese Sicily ($40) 89 This is an earthy dark 90 Medium gold. Made from 60% Moscato Bianco and fruited wine that is quite fresh and fruit forward with and 40% Gewürztraminer, this wine is pure, sweet ripe stone herbal, balsamic nose. It is ripe and fleshy on the pal- fruit, both aromatically and in terms of flavor. Clean flavors ate with a touch of bitterness on the finish. A fine single and excellent acidity lend charm to this wine. Tasca varietal wine. Setteporte 2012 N’ Ettaro Sicily 89+ This is d’Almerita Regaleali 2011 Le Rosé Regaleali Sicily ($15) 90 a blend of 65% Carricante and 35% Catarratto. It is crisp There aren’t many better rosés in Sicily that this one. It is with good varietal character and reveals chamomile, herbs made from 100% Nerello Mascalese and fermented like and yellow flowers on the nose with an earthy palate of a white wine. It is clean, fresh tasting, and lightly fruited

28 with lovely red berry notes on the nose and crisp acidity Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2012 Etna Bianco Cuvée de Vigne on the finish.Regaleali Tasca d’Almerita 2010 Lamuri ($20) Niche Sicily ($31) 91+ Full yellow gold color. 12 hours skin 92 Lamuri is a delicious 100% Nero d’Avola aged for contact in the press contributes a richly nutty, dried apple- 12 months in French oak. It reveals spicy dark raspberry, peach aroma. Full-bodied and firmly textured flavors show violet and red currant fruit typical of the area. Lamuri is earthy nuances, with hints of yellow fruit, and a glyceriny the local Sicilian dialect for ‘l’amore’- love! Tasca’s love for finish. Slightly oxidated notes reminiscent of mature Meur- the Nero grape is evident here. The palate shows good sault contribute to the wine’s overall character and unusual length, with gamy-graphite fruit accented by fine tannins length. Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2012 Nero Mascalese Etna and elegant medium-bodied, suppleness on the finish, yet Rosato Sicily ($18) 91 Shows minerals and red berries on good strength in the mid-palate. Some wood smoke adds the nose and palate. Superbly balanced with excellent to the finish. Made from younger vines in the Rosso del acidity, one of the best rosés we’ve tasted this year. Made Conte vineyard parcels, this will reward 3-5 years aging. with one vat that undergoes malo, which gives roundness Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Con- on the palate, and one that does not, which provides an tea di Sclafani Sicily ($65) 91 The Cabernet Sauvignon dis- uplift. Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2011 Etna Rosso Sicily ($20) plays rich aromas of cassis, cedar and smoke on the nose. 91 Pretty medium ruby-violet. Lovely floral black cherry Aged for 18 months and a minimum of one year in bottle, and violet aromas; classic Nerello! Crunchy, red fruit and it offers rich ripe fruit with a touch of herbs and brambles, mineral-graphite flavors with firm tannins and some earthi- soft round tannins, and a long finish. Tasca D’Almerita NV ness with aeration. Chewy finish, yet soave and elegant, Capofaro Malvasia di Liparí Salina IGT ($60) 90 A beauti- so should age well and soften over 4-6 years handsomely. fully fragrant, floral and herb-accented bouquet shows fine Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2011 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana freshness and Malvasia nuance. Spicy, orange zest and Sicily ($39) 95 Made from 60-70 year old vines, showing lightly Muscat-like grapy flavors are balanced by good a rich dark red cherry nose. Soft, velvet like with gorgeous, acidity. Very complex, but light on its feet as well for a refined flavors. Feminine, rich and seductive Perhaps the passito-style wine. Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali 2008 Rosso most delicate of de Grazia’s reds, the flavors show lovely del Conte di Sclafani Sicily ($70) 93+ Aged 18 months in florality and the finest tannins. Yet a firm core of darker new French oak barrels, Regaleali’s flagship wine shows a berry fruit balanced by good acidity and fine graphite full ruby-purple color this vintage. Lively, black raspberry, flavors yields the best balanced wine of the group. Very wild cherry aromas are enveloped by subtle smoky-oak classy. Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2011 Etna Rosso Santo scents. Fine acidity supports lovely fruit flavors: black- Spirito Sicily ($39) 94 “My Ava Gardner wine”, says de berry, violet, graphite. Firm yet silky tannins surround all, Grazia, referring to the curvy actress of the 1940’s-50’s. and provide a racy, mineral edge. Balanced for aging Full ruby color. Subtle, floral-cherry bouquet. Mature, 6-8 years, this is a handsome wine which shows old vine soft tannins enrobe blackberry flavors, with a more meaty structure, finesse and power. center, yet the fruit has a feminine, Chambolle-Musigny-like suppleness. The soils here are deep ash. A more forward Wines Also Tasted: Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali 2012 Grillo plush wine that will be better yet in 3-5 years. Tenuta delle Sicily 91 Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali 2010 Ghaia Nera Terre Nere 2011 Feudo di Mezzo Sicily ($39) 92 Dark ruby Sicily 91 Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali 2012 Tascante Car- and dark fruited. From 60+ year-old vines, the wine has a ricante Buonora Sicily 89 powerful, concentrated nose showing dark cherry and a hint of balsamic that are reflected on a big, velvet textured Noted Italian wine exporter palate. A big, powerful wine with a lot of grace. Tenuta Marco de Grazia has 21 delle Terre Nere 2011 Etna Rosso Guardiola Sicily ($39) 93 hectares of his own vineyards Spicy, with notes of dark red fruit. Linear and focused on on Etna and produces at the palate, refined with violet and cherry a hint of vanilla least eight different wines. He and a chalky texture. Firm tannins. Tenuta delle Terre Nere owns property between Solic- 2011 Etna Rosso Prepylloxera le Vigne di Don Peppino Sic- chiata and Randazzo and ily ($84) 94 Produced from a century-old plus one hectare has 11 hectares at over 650 section of Calderara behind the winery. Don Peppino is meters in Calderara Sottana. named after the old owner/caretaker who taught de Gra- He also has a one hectare vineyard, with many pre- zia so much about Etna’s potential for great wines. Very phylloxera vines by the winery called Don Peppino and stony soils. Pretty, ruby-violet color, with a touch of garnet. vineyards in Contrade Guardiola, Feudo di Mezzo and Dark black cherry, baking spice aromas from the oak and Santo Spirito. All of his wines are DOC Etna. He has distinctive spicy accents provide a great introduction to the helped fledgling winemakers in Etna such as Russo, thick, chewy black berry/cherry flavors. Cavaliere and Terre di Trente produce their wines. He also houses and makes the wines for young winemak- ers such as Binoche, Moganazzi and Vulkaanreizen, among others. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY and other importers

29 Valle dell’Acate 2012 Zagra Sicily ($19) 90 The Zagra is Tenuta di Fessina Property 100% Grillo and exhibits yellow green-gold color and of Federico Curtaz, one floral aromas with a hint of herbs. On the palate it has time agronomist for Angelo very fresh fruit flavors, good balance, and a layered spicy Gaja, and an old friend of finish with notes of bitter almond. A complex wine for Marco de Grazia, who sug- this grape. Valle dell’Acate 2012 Il Frappato Sicily ($20) gested he buy this property 89 The Il Frappato has a perfumy nose of red berries and in Rovitello, which is cooler rose petals. It is very fresh and fruit forward with nice firm than Randazzo to the west, tannins, no cloying sweetness and. good acidity. Simple and thus produces a quite different, more floral and less flavors but very clean without that candied Beaujolais weighty style of Etna Rosso that is refined and elegant. character. Fermented in stainless steel and left on the skins Importer: A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, for 15+ days. Valle dell’Acate 2009 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Montvale, NJ DOCG Sicily ($23) 92+ This extraordinary Cerasuolo is a blend of 70% Nero d’Avola aged in 350 liter tonneaux Tenuta di Fessina 2010 A Puddara Bianco ($37) 90 This for 10 months; and 30% Frappato aged in stainless steel 100% Carricante displays a pale straw color and aromas tanks. After blending, the wine is aged in bottle for an of minerals and honey with a hint of acacia, Aged for additional 12 months before sale. Medium ruby garnet nine months in French oak, it is rich on the palate and fills color, it offers a lovely black cherry and floral bouquet, the mouth with exotic flavors and has a chalky finish. Well showing freshness and real individuality. It has well struc- done. Tenuta di Fessina 2011 Etna Rosso Erse Sicily ($35) tured, elegant red berry flavors with discrete tannins and 91 Medium ruby-garnet color. Pretty, subtle black fruit, baked cherry/raspberry compote nuances. The finish adds mineral-tar and floral spicy aromas showcase pure Nerello some savory earthy tones. Valle dell’Acate 2010 Il Moro Mascalese character. Elegant, and firm at once, the wine Sicily ($23) 92 Il Moro is 100% Nero d’Avola fermented shows a solid moderately intense core of fruit. A very and aged one year in Stainless steel and one year in the good base level Etna Rosso, it has good acidity and fin- bottle. It is elegant and red fruited with notes of earth ishes clean with firm tannins. Overall, very pleasant. Te- and dark red cherry, quite sweet and ripe in character. nuta di Fessina 2010 Il Musmeci Etna Rosso Sicily ($65) 92 Soft and lush on the palate, it has gentle ripe tannins and Medium light ruby-garnet color. Deeper brighter perfume a long velvet finish. Valle dell’Acate 2010 Tane Sicily ($50) of both sour and dark cherries (amarena and marasche in 91 Tane is a blend of 85% Nero d’Avola and 15% Syrah. Italian),accented by delicate violet florality. Lovely fruit on It spends 12 months in barriques, 50% new. Dark ruby. the palate, medium bodied, chewy yet sweet cherry-miner- rich toasted oak, violets, dark red cherries, with a hint of al flavors. While the acidity is somewhat high, the tannins framboise on the nose. Big, soft, lush on the palate show- are rounder and more complete. This is a fine delicate ing lots of dark cherry fruit and garden herbs. Finishes with wine with real length and deeper textured than the Erse, a sweet balsamic note. but also requiring 3-4 years aging to soften and integrate. Tenuta di Fessina 2010 Ero Rosso Nero d’Avola Sicily ($25) Other Wines Tasted: Valle dell’Acate 2012 Insolia Sicily 89 91 Medium dark ruby. This Nero d’Avola displays a lovely Valle dell’Acate 2010 Rusciano Sicily Valle dell’Acate 2011 nose of dark red plum with a hint of spicy balsamic. It Bidis Sicily 91 reveals typical red fruit characteristics for this variety, but is a very juicy wine, packed with fresh flavor and sweet tannins. Tenuta di Fessina 2011 Laeneo Nerello Cappuccio Sicily ($25) 89+ Dark ruby. Black raspberry and red plum with note of dark cassis. Pure, juicy and savory on the at- tack and palate, showing dark fruit with blue notes. Hint of bitterness with firm tannins on the finish. A terrific blending grape.

Valle dell’Acate Located in southeastern Sicily, Valle dell Acate is owned and operated by Gaetana Jacono whose family has been producers in the area for six generations. Their vineyards total 100 hectares and have been replanted since 2001 They grow indigenous and international varieties on sandy-clay soils.. The winery bottles 33,000 cases annually and has a large and diverse portfolio. The quality of the wines is out- standing. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY

30 31 Previous Wine Reports Issue 1 California Petite Sirah Issue 2 Red Table Wines of Portugal Issue 3 Grenache Wines Issue 4 Syrah Issue 5 Malbec: Argentina’s Magnificent Malbec Issue 6 The Wines of Southern Italy: From Quantity to Quality Special Report Portugal: The Douro Boys and Barca Velha

Issue 7 New Zealand’s Exciting Pinot Noirs Issue 8 The Wines of Ribera del Duero Issue 9 Champagne Issue 10 Unoaked Chardonnay: It’s More Than Wood Issue 11 2005 Bordeaux Crus Bourgeois Issue 12 California Petite Sirah - Syrah Update Issue 13 The Wines of Rioja: Classical and New Wave Special Report Introduction to Sherry

Issue 14 The World of Sparkling Wines and Champagne Issue 15 The Wines of Chianti Classico

Issue 16 Oregon Pinot Noir Issue 17 Sauvignon of the Loire Issue 18 Wines of Navarra Issue 19 Wines of Greece: Assyrtiko and Santorini Issue 20 The Santa Lucia Highlands Issue 21 The Chilean Wine Revolution Issue 22 Grapes and Wines of the Western Loire Issue 23 Ribera del Duero Revisited Issue 24 The New Wines of Portugal Double Issue Issue 25 The Wines of Austria Issue 26 The Diverse Wines of Argentina Double Issue Issue 27 Sweet and Dessert Wines of the World Issue 28 The Wines of Priorat Issue 29 The Wines of Monterey County Issue 30 The Wines of South Africa Double Issue Issue 31 Brunello di Montalcino Issue 32 The New Wines of Israel Issue 33 The Wines of Paso Robles Issue 34 Champagne Revisited Issue 35 The Wines of Soave Special Report South African Chenin Blanc Issue 36 The Wines of Santa Barbara Issue 37 The Wines of Sicily

These reports are available online at www.iwinereview.com 32