Time Travel in TIBET INSIDER’S GUIDE to INSTAGRAM TAIWAN’S HOT SPRINGS

SOUTHEAST ASIA NOVEMBER 2019

Time travel in TIBET INSIDER’S GUIDE TO INSTAGRAM TAIWAN’S HOT SPRINGS

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LEIGH GRIFFITHS; ARIEL ESTULIN; SIVAN ASKAYO; APRIL WONG CONTENTS

Novemberfeatures

66 Maldives Rising A groundswell of new resorts is upping the luxury ante and doing green backflips to save their ecosystems. By Eloise Basuki 76 Plateaued Life takes on an air of mythology in Tibet’s Kham region, where Rachna Sachasinh finds nomadic traditions holding their own against modernity. Photographed by Ariel SUBSCRIBE NOW Estulin 66 76 TO OUR DIGITAL EDITION 88 96 88 World of Wonders In 1 year / 12 issues for US$29.99. this environmentalist age, Fiji and Tonga Available at www.zinio.com/TravelandLeisureAsia offer immersive images that help us focus on how much of the natural world is at risk. Photography by April Wong 96 Away in the Algarve With its breezy way of life, this southern part of Portugal has never had a hard time attracting visitors. By Rosecrans Baldwin. Photographed by Sivan Askayo CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LEIGH GRIFFITHS; ARIEL ESTULIN; SIVAN ASKAYO; APRIL WONG

ON THE COVER A blend of styles at the Dzongsar Monastery in Kham, Tibet. Photographed by Ariel Estulin TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 5 powered by

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IN EVERY ISSUE Contributors 8 The Conversation 10 Editor’s Note 12 Deals 62 Wish You Were Here 106

17 Reasons To Travel Now Photo 30 Strait Malacca Magic A new 48 A New Game in Modena tours from some of our favorite boutique hotel brings fresh life Michelin three-starred chef contributors and luxury hotels; to the seafront in cooler-by-the- Massimo Bottura and his wife, new ways to clear your chakras day Penang. Lara Gilmore, have debuted an at Thailand’s biggest music 34 Kindred Spirits Why Bacolod is inn that provides a great base for festival; get artsy in Singapore; known as the Philippines’ “City discovering the northern Italian and more. of Smiles.” town’s culinary attractions. 22 Spring Break Baring it all at a 40 A Gambol in Geylang In new onsen resort in the Singapore’s grittiest Upgrade Taiwanese hot-spring town of neighborhood, find a colorful 53 #travelgram Sleuth your way Guguan. jumble of heritage shops, ornate through the crazy-popular 26 Tangerine Dreams Japanese temples, bustling kopitiams and photo-sharing app to Insta-plan citrus works its magic, whether legendary eateries. your next, best vacation. squeezed into whisky or steeped 44 The Next Chapter With bespoke in a bath. artisan décor, new luxury rooms and a vintage author’s theme, the refurbished FCC Angkor enters a new era of style.

40 22 30 44 FROM LEFT: LESTER LEDESMA; V. CHRIS SCHALKX; COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE; COURTESY OF FCC ANGKOR

6 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM FROM LEFT: LESTER V. LEDESMA; CHRIS SCHALKX; COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE; COURTESY OF FCC ANGKOR L P ARIS –L i SOFITEL_3nd advertforSofitelbrand_01-10-19_resize.pdf110/2/2562BE11:58AM v e ONDON –NE W

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1 2 Eloise Ariel Basuki Estulin WRITER PHOTOGRAPHER “Maldives Rising” “Plateaued” Page 66 Page 76 — — “It’s great to see a resort “Having traveled many times 1 go beyond superficial eco from my home in Toronto trends—InterContinental to the Nepali Himalayas, Maamunagau has really I wanted to experience started out on the right foot to authentic Tibetan Sherpa keep its natural environment culture at its source. It’s been healthy. Snorkeling around shown Tibetans crossed into Ladies Island with their Nepal some 300 years ago and marine biologist, we learned settled in the higher altitudes, about the reef’s resilience and such as Kham. My favorite how she intends to protect it. memory of this trip was the There is so much still to learn King Gesar Cham festival. about how manta rays live, Visiting it was unplanned, communicate and socialize. and walking into the festival Guests can contribute to tent was like walking through Manta Trust’s initiatives a time warp. I’m also glad I just by sharing photos of the got to meet Dawa Drolma—a mantas they see on their own truly humble human being snorkels and dives in the dedicated to preserving 2 resort’s lagoon.” Instagram: the Tibetan way of life.” @eloise_baz. Instagram: @ariel.estulin.

3 4 Rachna Chris Sachasinh Schalkx WRITER WRITER “Plateaued” “#travelgram” Page 76 Page 53 — — “Tibet in three words: monks, “My trip to Iran two years ago mountains and momos. You was almost entirely planned might call it the land before through Instagram. Blogs and time. Honestly, I don’t know guidebooks only had typical how to encapsulate it; riding tourist info, very little about around that vast region in a 3 the cool and contemporary. minibus, I felt like I was in an On IG were photographers episode of Scooby Doo when he sharing a side of Tehran I meets Big Foot. Gongko, our would never have been able Tibetan guide, was incredibly to find. Some of my favorites funny, and I loved seeing him elsewhere: @serendella is skip along trails in his yellow a Shenzhen-based designer jacket. One day in a downpour, from Italy with impeccable a novice monk invited me taste in art and architecture; into his house, and I spent @majesticdisorder is always half an hour posing for selfies on the money with colorful with his family. Yak dung crafts around the world; and fueled the fire, no one spoke I love @tinyatlasquarterly the other’s language, and we for travel content without had a great time.” Instagram: the ‘influencer’ tropes.”

@rachna_sachasinh. Instagram: @chrsschlkx. FROM TOP: LEIGH GRIFFITHS; COURTESY OF ARIEL ESTULIN; COURTESY OF RACHNA SACHASINH; COURTESY OF CHRIS SCHALKX

8 4 FROM TOP: LEIGH GRIFFITHS; COURTESY OF ARIEL ESTULIN; COURTESY OF RACHNA SACHASINH; COURTESY OF CHRIS SCHALKX THE CONVERSATION ASIA TL # Morning arrival, Sri Lanka. By @leemumford8.

Airbus, seemingly flush with ideas, is going digital at altitude in more ways than one. The next generation of A321s and A350s will allow crew to monitor washroom wait times, which cart has that elusive chilled bottle of Prosecco and who among us is not wearing their seat belt.

Happiness does bloom from Buckle Up within. By @globetrottingsu. As for seatbelts, having direct access to On the Menu information regarding who is and is not The new system syncs securely fastened is meant to speed up better for locating special boarding and departures. Ditto for meals, to help ensure all sensors that can track where overhead passengers are eating at bin space is available. Future plans even the same time. If you’re not include seat-position preferences and fussed about finding that meal selection from your personal device before you head to the airport.

precious chilled Prosecco, THE COLORS OF ASIA COME ALIVE THIS MONTH VIA OUR that’s cool, we’ll take it. READERS WHO OPTFOR ALL ISTHAT VIVID ONTHEIR TRAVELS. Can you believe this place? By @thegingerwanderlust.

One Moment, Please There’s still a bit of time to enjoy In the Loo anonymity in the air: Yes, flight attendants will be able to the first A321s to roll monitor how long a passenger has out with the enhanced been in the washroom, but the idea is tech won’t arrive until to keep tabs on when soap or toilet 2021, followed by Productive board meetings. By @travelmonster.nl. paper need replacing. Cameras A350s two years outside washrooms will also help to after that. manage queues around the aircraft. SHARE AN INSTAGRAM PHOTO BY USING THE #TLASIA HASHTAG, AND IT MAY BE FEATURED IN AN UPCOMING ISSUE. FOLLOW @TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA

10 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM FESTIVE IN BLOOM Celebrate this year’s holiday season at AYANA Hotels in Bali as all our integrated resorts welcome you to festive celebrations brimming with lights, warmth of the traditional Balinese hospitality and seasonal cheer. This is the time to celebrate Christmas and New Year’s Eve with family and friends. Our nineteen restaurants and bars will bring that jolly festive spirit to your dining tables with lots of entertainment options. Expect a fanfare of the finest food, bubbly celebrations, spa indulgence and the impeccable service from the AYANA team.

Karang Mas Estate Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, Bali 80364, Indonesia AYANA Resort and Spa, BALI & The Villas at AYANA Resort, BALI ayana.com | +62 361 702 222 RIMBA Jimbaran BALI at AYANA rimbajimbaran.com | +62 361 846 8468 EDITOR’S NOTE

FROM LEFT: Going green at Tenju-an Temple in Kyoto; posing at the nearby Nanzenji Temple.

HOULD SHE WANT TO SEE the real Tibet, our writer was told, she must visit Kham (“Plateaued,” page 76). The true sense of any destination—the backdrop and the experiences that define it—isn’t always FROM MY TRAVELS apparent on first glance or visit. It comes alive in the words and, our theme this month, the photography that make up each story. If there’s a destination in Asia that practically But, as Rachna Sachasinh discovers, and as Ariel Estulin’s pictures photographs itself, it would underscore, Kham is the backdrop to a part of Asia that is controversial have to be Kyoto, one of our simply because it exists. China would like you to see its version of readers’ favorite cities in the Tibet, yet through his images, Ariel offers up a better dose of reality— world. Wander down almost something that all great photography aims to do. any random street, and small shrines and hidden temples Far from the Tibetan Plateau, photographer April Wong visited mix with trendy coffee shops Tonga and Fiji earlier this year, focusing on the environmental and ramen bolt holes. All of rather than the cultural aspect of each nation. Her photos in “World that photographic fodder is of Wonders” (page 88) speak volumes about two fragile ecosystems, aside from the major historic Shinto and Buddhist stops on above and below the waves. As in Tibet, scale comes into play via the the map, the sharp modern natural world—look no further than the design at so many turns and, humpback whale on page 89. not least of all, the The Himalayas and the South Pacific welcoming people who call are dream destinations but, no matter Kyoto home. As always, with any of your own memorable where your journeys take you, these travel snaps, don’t forget to days we all have a camera in hand 24/7, tag us at #tlasia. and Instagram is the perfect gallery to share your photos à la Ariel or April. With that in mind, we delve into how to better use the app in “#travelgram” (page 53). After reading it, you’ll be

@CKucway

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DAVID VAN DRIESSCHE NOVEMBER 2019 REASONS TO TRAVEL NOW

T+L’s monthly selection of trip-worthy places, experiences and events.

no. 1 Dive lens-first into some of Group portrait in the region’s most culturally Papua New Guinea by David van fascinating locales. Driessche.

If you’ve ever fantasized about being a travel photographer, some intrepid new tours let you scratch the itch without having to quit your day job. And who better to show you the ropes than a couple of T+L contributors? Belgium native David van Driessche (davidvandriessche.com), who runs what he calls “classic” photo tours through Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam, over the last few years has developed the more adventurous Expeditions in Photography (expeditionsinphotography.com), eschewing obvious landmarks in search of the “unseen”—hidden Angkor ruins, Burmese headhunter villages and the like. Focusing on environmental portraiture, “where you show local people in their natural settings,” he says, David’s 2020 tours will set off for Burma’s Chin State to visit remote tattoo tribes (from US$1,750), and the Mergui Archipelago to document the nomadic Moken people (from US$1,500). Lester V. Ledesma (skylightimages.info) is another pro photographer leading bespoke tours around the region, with an approach more about cultural immersion than luxury. Past groups have found themselves doing “show-and-tell” sessions amid Balinese rice fields, on private islands off Palawan, and at rooftop bars overlooking Shwedagon Pagoda. Like van Driessche, Ledesma also offers a selection of tours to suit the more adventure-inclined. This January, he leads one of his PhotoTreks (fb.com/phototreks; from S$3,600) through Bhutan to capture wintry Himalayan landscapes. No

DAVID VAN DRIESSCHE VAN DAVID fancy equipment required, he says—“All that matters is that you have a game attitude and you love to take pictures.”

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 17 REASONS TO TRAVEL NOW

Capella Shanghai’s Print, Shoot, Retouch experience sees you snap the city’s prettiest spots.

Picture Perfect with Leica, Mandarin Oriental no. 2 Bangkok. Luxury hotels develop photo master classes. No need to summit mountains RMB1,500 per person) helps to improve your travel snaps. you boost your photo finesse A growing number of hotel under the tutelage of local experiences let you hone your pro photographer Mr. Wang. camera skills right in the The private three-hour session center of town, whether you’re includes photography practice a serious enthusiast or just in it within Capella Shanghai’s for the Instagram. scenic heritage shikumen Mandarin Oriental grounds; in the French Bangkok and the company Concession with all its Art- behind everyone’s most Deco flourishes; and in Xujiahui coveted camera are teaming Park to capture local daily life. up to offer Picture Perfect with Aspiring photographers will Leica (mandarinoriental.com; also find plenty of creative package from Bt33,000), which inspiration in Luang Prabang, comes with expert advice and where Rosewood will soon be Leica goodies. Guests receive hosting the Scott Woodward a Leica Sofort instant camera Photography Journey with film, and get a private (rosewood.com; from US$2,350 tutorial on perspective, per person) with the award- movement and composition at winning Canadian shutterbug. the Leica Gallery in Bangkok, The package includes a night followed by a walking tour at Rosewood Bangkok, four through Bangkok’s old town nights at Rosewood Luang Scott A. with manager and senior Prabang, full board, transport, Woodward instructor of Leica Akademie, and practical photography will soon be Kristian Dowling. lessons you can put into leading At Capella Shanghai, practice on meanderings workshops at Rosewood the Print, Shoot, Retouch around the unesco World Luang Prabang.

experience (capellahotels.com; Heritage town. A. WOODWARD OF SCOTT COURTESY BANGKOK; ORIENTAL OF MANDARIN SHANGHAI; COURTESY OF CAPELLA COURTESY FROM TOP: OF WONDERFRUIT COURTESY PHOTO; STOCK (2); YVETTE CARDOZO/ALAMY OF WONDERFRUIT FROM LEFT: COURTESY

18 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM no. 3 A festival for all the senses.

Just when you thought music festivals couldn’t get any trippier, Wonderfruit (wonderfruit.co; December 12–16; weekend tickets from Bt6,900) returns next month with wellness offerings for all manner of guru devotee. Among the lengthy slate of musical acts playing this four-day, carbon-neutral field party a 2½-hour drive from Bangkok are Massive Attack co-founder Daddy G, German electronic DJ Acid Pauli, British beatboxing multivocalist Beardyman, Thai funk- meets-traditional-molam country music evangelist Maft Sai, Brooklyn rapper Dillon Cooper, and French house and synth-pop specialist Breakbot. But, if you’re like us and only vaguely aware-ish of most of these guys’ oeuvres, take heart, because that’s kind of the point. Wonderfruit’s founders have always wanted the tunes to be just one draw of their super-sustainable, arts-everywhere, upscale-upcycled, family-friendly romp in the woods. And this year they’re really stepping up their alterna-spa menu to balance the 24/7 hedonism with holistic healing. So leave the headgear in your luxury RV for a bit—after your Michelin-chef-cooked lunch, put down that biodegradable fork and lay down for a gong bath, experiment with some new styles of yoga, or try one of these next-next-level therapies:

Breath Yam Khang Kava. Water painting. fire therapy. ceremony.

1. Open your third eye 2. Get a massage from a 3. Drink your way to 4. Tap into the “internet through art fire-walker awakening of the cosmos” Bangkok-based artist Yam Khang, or Thai fire Kava is revered in Pacific The Akashic Records are Notep invented a machine therapy, is an ancient, and Island societies such as an almanac of everything that turns the breath of some believe sacred, Fiji and Vanuatu for its that has ever happened the user into paint strokes. tradition of the northern properties of healing, and will ever happen, a The purpose of this Lanna people, in which anesthesia and, if you spiritual library where all energy-collecting session the therapist uses live take enough, euphoria. consciousness is is to help you turn away flames to really up the In a traditional village, connected through a from group-think to massage ante. The point kava-drinking ceremonies register of energies. reclaim self-identity. is to make use of the are held for celebrations, Channeler Rebeca Lacasa “Society, to me, is the healing power of intense to welcome guests—or a will conduct a ceremony source of everyone’s grief, heat without sacrificing good reason to chill. The that honors water as the therefore I am determined the human touch of roots are pounded into a glue that binds all living to divert audiences’ focus massage. The powder, strained and spirits. “Collectively we back on themselves to be practitioners coming to mixed with water, and will create a beautiful true to their energy Wonderfruit are educators shared in a coconut shell altar of crystals, flowers, sources by producing and trained therapists with guests in order of incenses while infusing works that can be felt with from the Hang Dong importance, from the chief our love with singing and the heart and not only massage school in Chiang down. Enthusiast group meditating,” she says. “We seen with the eyes,” she Mai. You lie on your Kava World International will open the Records to says. The session begins tummy next to a burning is coming to Wonderfruit, receive messages from with a meditative music cauldron, and they’ll dip says representative Troy the water and, in return, performance, after which their feet in oils infused Wihongi, to “connect the give our prayers to the you can channel your with herbs and spices, people of the South Pacific water.” Feel free to take energy via your breath heat them over the with the rest of the world some good-vibe H2O home to help create murals charcoal fire, then walk through the mana in your own bottle—as that Notep calls an out the kinks in your [spiritual energy] that long as it’s not plastic.

FROM TOP: COURTESY OF CAPELLA SHANGHAI; COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL BANGKOK; COURTESY OF SCOTT A. WOODWARD OF SCOTT COURTESY BANGKOK; ORIENTAL OF MANDARIN SHANGHAI; COURTESY OF CAPELLA COURTESY FROM TOP: OF WONDERFRUIT COURTESY PHOTO; STOCK (2); YVETTE CARDOZO/ALAMY OF WONDERFRUIT FROM LEFT: COURTESY “energy diary.” pressure points. lives within all things.” — JENINNE LEE-ST. JOHN

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 19 REASONS TO TRAVEL NOW

Phare, The Cambodia Circus.

no. The My Mizu 4 app in action. Two big artsy things happening in Singapore.

“Every effort to change the world for known as SGIFF, (sgiff.com; the better matters,” says Patrick November 21–December 1). Under the no. Flores, artistic director of the theme “Roots,” expect a diverse 5 Singapore Biennale 2019 lineup of local, Asian and You’ll never go (singaporebiennale.org; November international indie films; forums 22–March 22, 2020), which returns that invite discussion beyond the thirsty in Japan. to the city-state this month. His hope silver screen with expert insights for the exhibition, titled “Every Step from Netflix and other mainstream The list of Why Japan is Better at Life just got longer with a in the Right Direction,” is to industry pundits; and a focus new app that tells you where encourage audience reflection on program on Southeast Asian films you can source free drinking “right action” to affect positive social featuring fantastical and folkloric water on your travels in the and political change. The exhibition storytelling. Be sure to check out the country. A divining rod for the features the works of more than 70 three short films on the topic of digital age, the My Mizu artists and collectives from more “celebration” SGIFF this year smartphone app connects you than 20 countries, unfurling across commissioned from regional to more than 8,000 “refill a network of cultural and heritage filmmakers—Yeo Siew Hua of stations,” so you can bypass sites, including the Gillman Singapore, Mouly Surya of Indonesia 7-Eleven in favor of public Barracks and venues within the and Anucha Boonyawatana of water fountains and partner businesses. The developers, colorful Bras Basah Bugis Precinct. Thailand—to mark the event’s Social Innovation Japan, were — BEK VAN VLIET Planned “festival-seminars” will 30th anniversary. sparked into action by the blur the line between art nation’s high consumption of and audience, including a Let’s PET bottles—in the league of new installment of the Walk, by 64 million per day. The app is Let’s Walk performance Amanda still in beta testing, so expect series by Singaporean Heng. more functionality in versions artist Amanda Heng, as to come, including user photos well as interactive and reviews of refill stations, performances by Phare, and gaming elements to incentivize users and make the The Cambodia Circus. mission for free, fresh water Cinephiles will also more fun. Developers also find an extra reason to hope to roll the app out into visit Singapore this month other territories, with with the 30th Singapore Singapore first in their sights.

International Festival, mymizu.co HENG OF AMANDA OF MY MIZU (2); COURTESY OF PHARE; COURTESY LEFT: COURTESY FROM TOP CLOCKWISE

20 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF PHARE; COURTESY OF MY MIZU (2); COURTESY OF AMANDA HENG CHECKING IN

Spring Break Baring it all at Hoshinoya’s newest resort in the Taiwanese hot-spring town of Guguan. Story and PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS SCHALKX

Mountain views meet mineral springs in Taiwan's leafy heartland.

22 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM NOTHING BUT A TINY cotton towel protects my modesty at the steaming pool I’m about to enter. I may be in Taiwan, where hot-spring outings are usually swimwear-friendly family affairs, but here in the baths of Hoshinoya Guguan, tradition dictates I onsen the Japanese way: in my birthday suit. My initial awkwardness melts away the moment I submerge into the cypress-fringed outdoor bath. Fed by streams flowing down the craggy peak of Xueshan, East Asia’s second-highest mountain, its water is slightly alkaline and on the pleasant side of piping hot, making it the perfect introductory onsen for a novice like me. FROM TOP: Opened in June, Hoshinoya Zigzagging through Guguan (hoshinoya.com; doubles the gardens; an elevated spot on from NT$7,560) is the luxury resort Xueshan’s slopes; chain’s first foray into Taiwan, and Taiwanese-style only its second resort outside of congee; rooms are Japan, where founder Kuniji designed for quiet Hoshino opened his first ryokan in relaxation. Nagano Prefecture in 1914. Its setting on a forested plateau in Guguan, a tiny hot-spring enclave in the island’s mountainous heartland 90 minutes west of Taichung, taps directly into the liquid treasure. “The qi is particularly good here,” stone bath endlessly fed by says the brand’s global wellness Xueshan’s hot springs, and refreshed manager, Keiko Watanabe, as we by a forest breeze. In a palette of stroll through the resort’s verdant muted greys and browns, interiors gardens. “The wind, the water reflect the clean, functional shapes —everything flows so naturally.” characteristic of Japanese Zen Qi, the Chinese concept of energy design. Every piece of furniture flow, informs both the resort’s (comfy futons and low-slung wellness program and its design daybeds among them) faces floor-to- — from the garden, where wooden ceiling windows that frame valley pathways zigzag through swaying views in countless shades of green. bamboo forest and babbling canals As the sun begins to set and the swirl around Chinese firs and humming of cicadas fills the air, Formosan gum trees (some of which I set off to the resort’s restaurant, date back to Japanese colonial times), following twists and turns through to the kaze no ma, a communal the garden, past a shimmering pool lounge on the fifth floor, optimally and gazebos lit up with lanterns positioned to catch the sunlight resembling fireflies. The dining and the crisp mountain air. room features both Western-style My room, too, is designed with seating and Japanese-style sunken qi in mind, laid out over two floors, dining booths, horigotatsu, the latter with a bedroom and lounge on the offering the best views of the garden. bottom and an onsen area on top. I opt for the eight-course kaiseki The focal point is an indoor-outdoor meal, a delicate pairing of Taiwanese

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bounty and Japanese cooking myself then soaking in hot water techniques, dished up by executive until my fingertips turn into raisins chef Shunsuke Fujii on a plethora is all wrong. She tells me not to just of tiny colorful ceramics. Highlights jump straight in, but to first splash include sea bream sashimi with myself 10 to 20 times to let my skin kumquat-infused salt, and grilled react to the minerals. She also Taiwanese grouper marinated teaches me gentle stretches and in soy sauce, mirin and sake. breathwork for when I’m submerged. The following day I loll around “Bathing is a kind of exercise,” she the resort’s pool and follow an explains. “The warm water can work in-again, out-again routine at my wonders on your skin and muscles.” private onsen. No tiny towels and The masterclass is followed curious glances here. Come by a massage at the spa, where nightfall, I slip into a navy-colored two of the four shoji paper–screened yukata and traditional wooden geta treatment rooms come with private shoes to meet Ms. Watanabe again onsen pools facing a mountainscape —this time for an onsen masterclass that’s now shrouded in clouds. in the spa’s lobby lounge. Turns out I don’t tell my masseuse about that my method of hastily washing my hike—or attempted hike—along the 90-minute uphill Shao Lai hiking FROM TOP: Kaiseki trail I’d tried earlier that day, morsels arrive on but my weary calves give it away. delicate ceramics; It’s nothing she can’t fix with the outlook here is always green. a combination of Chinese and European massage techniques. As the weekend comes to a close, I ignore Ms. Watanabe’s teachings and take one last way-too-long soak on my balcony. Frets of work and deadlines evaporate with every billow of steam. I’ve spent numerous weekends at my in-laws’ summer home not far from here, quietly pleading with my wife if we could please go home already. This time, however, I dread the thought of heading back to the city.

THREE MORE HOT-SPRING along the Nanshi River just a programs complement the carbonated and sulfur smell– half-hour from Taipei, Volando health benefits of 45-degree- free. Mineral-rich and alkaline, RESORTS IN TAIWAN Urai promises a regenerative, Celcius white-sulfur spring- it’s fabled for its beautifying close-to-nature experience, water baths. All guestrooms properties, and is said to leave The hills are alive with with practically every space come with a yoga mat, the skin supple and smooth. the bubbling of hot springs. drenched in forest views. aromatic plants, organic bath Yamagata Kaku Hotel & Spa Here are some other chill Dining comes in the form amenities and a private bath lets you tap into this fountain spots for soaking. of French and Italian food with sound system for a multi- of youth with modern, Zen- highlighting fresh native sensory experience. calm rooms within walking Volando Urai Spring ingredients. Preventive medicine and the distance of the entrance of Spa & Resort volandospringpark.com; odd cosmetic treatment are Jiaoxi Hot Spring Park. Soak This Relais & Châteaux hot- doubles from NT$16,000. also available onsite at Beitou in public baths in the park, spring resort in mountainous Health Management Hospital. in the communal baths on the Wulai is among Taiwan’s most Hotel Royal Beitou hotelroyal.com.tw/beitou/en; top floor of the hotel, or in renowned. You’re spoiled for Located in Taipei’s Beitou doubles from NT$11,999. your room’s own deep, stone bathing options, with a public district—another area famed tub. yamagatakaku.com.tw; bathhouse, indoor hot and for its springs—this holistic- Yamagata Kaku Hotel & Spa doubles from NT$16,000. cold baths and a private tub in healing retreat’s spa, fitness, The Jiaoxi Township brand of — RANDY MULYANTO and BEK every guestroom. Sidled up hydrotherapy and nutrition spring water is clear, VAN VLIET

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Tangerine Dreams Squeezed into whisky or steeped in a bath— Japanese citrus works its magic on Adam H. Graham. ILLUSTRATED BY WASINEE CHANTAKORN ANY FOOD TRAVELER worth their salt accepts past stretches of sun-kissed orange groves that certain items never taste as good at home punctuated by views of the tranquil azure as they do at their source. I’ve sampled zesty ocean, and roadside stands selling boxes full olive oils in Italy, sipped tasty zin in Oz, and of the orange balls for ¥100. These ponkan, devoured strange fruit in Colombia... and also known as Chinese honey oranges, are every one, after being wrapped, packed and harvested on Yakushima in December. While hauled home, lost a little bit of magic if not a I sat slouched in the boxy car, queasy from my whole lot of flavor. This rule is also true of stomach bug, my guide, eager to redeem the Japanese citrus fruits, which, according to experience, asked if I wanted to taste a freshly Japan’s unique Tanaka classification system, plucked ponkan. “It will help your stomach,” exist in 162 varietals, each as subtle and she said. I was skeptical, but acquiesced. nuanced as you’d expect of something that’s She stopped the car and plucked an been crossbred in the country for 2,000 years. armful from a tree and offered me pick of the My first brush with Japanese citrus was litter. The peel fell away and the flesh inside in December 2012 on a crazy one-night trip was sweet, juicy and especially fragrant, to the island of Yakushima to celebrate my somewhere on the citrus scale between 40th birthday. Long a fan of Studio Ghibli’s Orangina and Earl Grey. It was instantly Princess Mononoke, I made the ultimate edifying, and not only helped restore me, birthday pilgrimage to the island that inspired but brought on a wave of nostalgia for my it, traveling 60 kilometers offshore of Kyushu childhood in Florida, where ponkan were (two hours via Rocket jetfoil; ¥9,000) to hike planted in the late 1880s and are still harvested mossy, green and ancient cedar forests. As every Christmas. luck would have it, I caught a stomach bug A final stop to add some necessary auspice that morning and was more like a limping to my visit landed us at Furusato Market near Ghibli ghoul than the fierce wolf warrior I’d the ferry port, where I stocked up on ponkan in envisioned I’d be. Were my 30s ending with all its forms: jars of ponkan salt, tubs of ponkan a whimper? I thought the trip was a bust. miso, dried, desiccated, candied, and even The next morning on our drive back to a comforting fresh ponkan juice for the voyage Yakushima’s Miyanoura Port, we cruised back to Kyushu.

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We sipped Izu orange wine and hot tangerine juice while partaking in the property’s fruit barbecue, orange slices shish-kebabed like marshmallows over the open fire

MY SECOND J-CITRUS experience occurred that same night. After crossing monster waves the color of concrete between Yakushima and Kagoshima, I boarded a series of oven-like busses and Shinkansen for a sweltering six- hour trundle to the remote, barren mountains of Oita Prefecture in northeastern Kyushu. By the time I arrived, dusk was falling across ochre Aso-san, a sacred mountain that resembles a sleeping Buddha. My woodsy 12-villa ryokan, Kai Aso (hoshinoresorts.com; doubles from ¥78,180 per night) was a hazy blur in the cold, inky night. During dinner, a full-on snowstorm unleashed from the hoary skies. On the way back to my room, I crunched through piles of powder in my wooden geta sandals, clad in a cozy flax yukata and silky obi jacket. There, on a sheltered terrace aside my private outdoor onsen, was a basket of gnarly yuzu with a handwritten note informing me that the peak of the yuzu harvest season fell that night, on toji, the winter solstice. Yuzu baths on the solstice—yuzuyu—are an ancient Japanese tradition, so soaking felt obligatory. I carefully dropped one of the bumpy orbs into the bath and was met with a face full of yuzu steam and the astringent smell of mandarin, lemon and grapefruit. I then chucked the whole basket in, stripped off myyukata and plunged into a zingy citrus bath, watching fat flakes of snow fall on the pine boughs outside as the bobbing yuzu worked their magic on me. “Magic” is no exaggeration. Yuzu oil contains nomilin, said to encourage relaxation, promote circulation and reduce sensitivity to cold. The fruit itself contains three times the vitamin C of a lemon. After 15 minutes, my skin was like a 30-year-old’s again. Another memory unfolds in Atami in Shizuoka Prefecture, where my husband and I spent a few halcyon October hours picking our own dai dai oranges at Nishijima Farm,

28 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM a hilly seaside orange plantation. “The same trees produce fruit that taste totally different,” said the owner, who squeezed fresh orange juice for us while bagging up our handplucked booty. Later that night at the Risonare Atami (risonare.com; rooms from ¥41,000 per night), we sipped Izu orange wine and hot tangerine juice while partaking in the property’s fruit barbecue, where orange slices were shish- kebabed like marshmallows over the open fire. There was even a spa featuring citrus facials and wraps. As usual, my visit ended with me combing stores for mikan wasabi, ponzu and tachibana curd, and impulse-buying bottles of syrupy orange liquors, salted-lemon KitKats and pungent tubes of kosho chili paste... much of which still languishes in my fridge today.

THROUGH THE YEARS, other citrus encounters have also left lasting impressions. They include the time on the lonely, windswept art island of Teshima when I rode my e-bike past endless lemon groves. During a sloshy taxi ride in Dōgo Onsen, my white-gloved driver took a wrong turn onto a one-way road through an orange grove where he cursed his way past hundreds of wet, glossy mikan trees, many with brown paper bags wrapped around the Christmas ornament–like fruits. While hiking the steep, sunny path to Matsuyama Castle the next morning—part of the city’s famed haiku trail honoring local poet Masaoka Shiki—I stopped at a vendor to indulge in a double- scoop breakfast of iyokan and haruka gelato, the former like a mandarin-tangerine hybrid, the latter resembling a sweet, tangy lemon. I even penned a haiku to citrus: doubles from ¥16,150 per night), a constellation Golden setoka, of thatched minka farmhouses offering You steal all attention from everything from tatami mats and irori Patient white blossoms. fire pits to electronic Toto toilets and chic My most recent experience brings us to 2018 Midcentury furniture. and sudachi, my favorite citrus. I discovered That night after dinner, I retreated to the green ping-pong ball–sized fruit while my fireside tatami mat and squeezed a pinch traveling through Tokushima, where it is of sudachi into a rocks glass with too much prized for its sour, acidic juice. Sudachi is Hibiki whisky in it, all the while watching to Tokushima what key lime is to Florida, the rising moon illuminate the misty valley, kaffir is to India, and the bergamot is to Sicily. knowing I’d found my precious. I was introduced to sudachi in the Iya Valley Only that time did I finally understand: You during an epic home-cooked meal prepared can’t always bring it home. by 80-something mama-san and soba-noodle master Reiko Tsusuki, who sang old Iya Valley Private tour operator Remote Lands offers folk songs while preparing a feast of old- customizable 3- to 14-night tours showcasing fashioned dishes like crispy shitake tempura Japanese citrus, including pickings, tastings, and stewed wild greens. It was part of my degustation meals and cooking lessons; stay at Tougenkyou-Iya (tougenkyo-iya.jp; remotelands.com; from US$1,700.

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FOR QUINTESSENTIAL Straits Settlements charm, it’s hard to beat Strait Malacca Magic Penang. Winding streets of weathered shophouses, weird A new boutique hotel brings fresh life to the seafront in T-intersections and seemingly out- cooler-by-the-day Penang. BY JENINNE LEE-ST. JOHN of-nowhere mini roundabouts, stone lions fronting vibrant Chinese clan associations, the elaborate Sri Mahamariamman Hindu temple amid a squall of incense and sari shops—the little, layer-cake city of George Town dates to 1786, when the Sultan of Kedah ceded Penang, in exchange for military aid, to the British East India Company, which established it as a trading port. Immigrants from across Asia came to make duty-free deals and claim all the land they could clear. By the time Queen Victoria took the throne in 1837, Penang was in full bloom financially and culturally. It’s in this thriving golden age of yore that a new boutique hotel situates itself. The Prestige is a neat evolution in hospitality in a town that, on one hand, has as its grande dame, the 134-year-old Eastern & Oriental Hotel, and on the other was not long ago the boutique pioneer of the region, a place of charming refurbishments from visionary small-scale developers like Chris Ong of Clove Hall and Muntri Mews. Unlike most hotels in George Town, The Prestige isn’t a refit of an old building, yet it fits in fine. This is partly because new builds in unesco World Heritage Site Penang must adhere to certain proportions and scale (The Prestige is four stories), and partly because the architects at Ministry of Design, led by Colin Seah, took as inspiration a certain of-the-era theme: if the hotel name reminds you of that Hugh Jackman/ Christian Bale movie about magicians in Victorian London, you’ve conjured the right picture. Geometric shapes and rose gold lend the property a clean, subtle glamour. There’s a maze inlaid in the A hand- center of the lobby floor and hand- etched panel etched, metal panels in the elevators in the elevator, The Prestige. featuring iconic images of Penang.

On the two 143-meter-long guest COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE; ANA FLAŠKER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE; COURTESY OF CHINA HOUSE

30 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Rooftop pool at The Prestige; one of Ernest Zacharevic's famed George Town murals; The Prestige's lengthy façade; carbo-load on 50 types of cake a day at China House.

floors, alternating light and dark champagne-bronze centerpiece that that carries throughout the hotel. colored bands painted on diagonals contains the closet and shower and Groomed tropical botanicals were a every five meters combined with is meant to recall Houdini’s escape status symbol back in the day and shadow-casting lamps make the box. The lofts are duplexes with Seah has translated this into leafy space seem to rotate around you. separate living and sleeping areas. green wallpaper blanketing all the “The corridors looked never-ending, For someone who wants cute and bathrooms in the building, making so we needed some visual trickery to inner-city but also a splash of for an aesthetically exciting contrast break down the scale,” Seah told me. fabulousness, the big selling point of when you open every hidden door. The hallway is such an immersive The Prestige is its rooftop pool, an All of this is housed within a long, trompe l’oeil that when the manager infinity number that faces the Strait stately, white building with a ground- was leading me to my room he of Malacca and mainland Malaysia floor promenade filled with boutiques pointed ahead of us and said, “Don’t beyond, a rarity in George Town. and eateries. It’s like the city itself in bump into the mirror,” and I jumped There are pretty gazeboes and now a modern miniature. “You’re meant to back—totally convinced there was a bar—it wasn’t open when I was be outside exploring in Penang,” mirror there, but there wasn’t. there but owner Tommy Koay, who Seah said, and The Prestige feels I shifted from this disorienting was so gracious about my friends’ entrenched in the bustle. At risk for borderland into a private space that and my BYO bubbly workaround, a few years of becoming a living was bright and feminine. Rooms are assures me that drinks there are museum (there are now lines to take outfitted in the softest pastel pinks currently flowing—making this the photos with those cutesy Ernest and blues, with velvety upholstery, choice spot to chill after wandering Zacharevic street paintings), the city trapezium lines, and beds that seem about town all sticky day. The garden has begun to morph into an actually

COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE; ANA FLAŠKER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE; COURTESY OF CHINA HOUSE to be levitating; suites have a up here is actually a parallel theme cool ’hood, with legit speakeasies, an

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underground music scene and Izzy Bisu named Leaism and then impressive imports of artisanal food jumped along to ska band Budak and drink products. Nakal Hujang Simpang, who I co-opted T+L contributors literally brought the house down— Marco Ferrarese, a writer, and his when a large ceiling tile caved in, photographer wife Kit Yeng Chan to we took it as a cue to make a move. show me around their hometown, “When I moved here in 2009, which was putting on the annual there were zero hipster cafés, no George Town Festival during my mural art, no tourists—just visit. After an obscenely wholesome beautifully decrepit buildings and night stroll through the waterfront a thriving mix of multi-ethnic Esplanade that included projection- peoples,” Ferrarese said as he led us mapping lightshows on the façade of to China House, a genius block-long City Hall and a trippier-than- amalgam of shophouses that you Fantasia lit-up, life-size horse might call an F&B layer-cake, what puppet dance, it was time for many with its diner-like bake shop on one drinks. At tiki-dive Soundmaker end and sultrily lit lounge bar on the Studio, a recording studio and live- other. “When Kit was a kid, there music club, we were moved by a local wasn’t a bridge connecting the island singer-songwriter in the mold of to the mainland, traffic was less, and the town had real charm, even a tram line. Today it retains some of CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The its former splendor, but is congested,” Glasshouse restaurant at The Prestige; fine dining in he said. “It’s getting harder and China House; there are 16 harder to find space to breathe.” Loft suites in The Prestige. Perhaps counter-intuitively, that’s a reason to cheer more development. There’s a fair bit of space fringing George Town’s quaint core, much of it valuable waterfront real estate, the regeneration of which could totally change the cityscape. “It’s a good thing that the old buildings near the sea are being refurbished,” he said. “The Prestige has revitalized a very big heritage building that sat unused next to one of George Town’s main thoroughfares for decades.” I’d call that a pretty neat bit of magic.

restaurant because sometimes where the plates were custom gone an unmarked door too far) THE DETAILS you need to eat, too. fb.com/ commissioned and hand-painted that is basically a big, bricked-in besorosadobychinchin. and crazy Botero-like paintings back room full of cool kids, with STAY China House The width of a hang from the ceiling. fb.com/ live music on a doll-stage The Prestige Hotel 162 rooms full block, three connected chinschinesecuisine. mezzanine balcony. instagram. and suites in a self-contained shophouses and their interior Hong Kee Bamboo Noodle magazine_63. village that’s convenient to most courtyards combine for With an entrance framed by Tai Tong A Penang institution. of where you want to be in something for everyone: 50 their famous baked goods and Dim sum done the right way, George Town. theprestige.my; fresh cakes a day, communal- noodle-soup stand, this Chinese served by old ladies with rolling, doubles from RM280. table lunches, a cool bar whose diner is the spot for char hor fun steaming carts, even for dinner. liquor stock is absurdly vast and (stir-fried flat rice noodles) and 45 Lebuh Cintra. EAT+DRINK deep. chinahouse.com.my. other Cantonese lunch cravings. Via Pre When your palate needs Beso Rosado Hot-pink, highly Chin’s Stylish Chinese Cuisine 37 Lebuh Campbell. a change from Asian, head to photogenic craft-cocktail bar Terrible name, but props for Magazine 63 Legit speakeasy this cozy, classic Italian with a happy to whip up bespoke OTT effort at this haute Chinese (if you find yourself in the Harry decent selection of old-world beverages, plus a tapas

on the pier next to The Prestige Potter bar next door, you’ve wines. via-pre.com. —J.L.S.J. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE; COURTESY OF CHINA HOUSE; COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE

32 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE; COURTESY OF CHINA HOUSE; COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE DISCOVERY

The Ruins, an old Italian mansion turned events space. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: WILFREDO LUMAGABAS,JR.; STEPHANIE ZUBIRI (2) Kindred Spirits Tracing her roots to Bacolod, Stephanie Zubiri discovers one secret to happiness in the Philippines’ “City of Smiles.”

“ARE YOU THE COUSIN OF the aunt of law!”—you are welcomed like a long- specifically, Kabankalan City, an so-and-so? Because I’m the sister of lost relative into a world of laid-back hour’s drive from Bacolod, where the grandmother of her brother-in- plantation living and interminable there was a large Basque law! And she was at my wedding!” happy hours. community. There he met and Every introduction in Bacolod begins In this case, I was a long-lost married my grandmother, Rosa like this—with customary air kisses relative. My grandfather was a Rubin de Celiz, who came from a accompanied by friendly Spanish Basque who, during the Negrense family of politicians and interrogation into your extended Spanish Civil War, escaped the sugar planters. The rest, as they say, family. Family is important in this throes of Franco, and along with his is history. Although my parents had town; it almost seems that for any brother and cousin stowed away on a lived in Bacolod during the Swinging friendship to begin, a familial cargo boat from Marseille, bound for Sixties, hopping between fabulous connection must first be found, no the Philippines. Penniless in Manila, mahjong lunches and rum-fueled matter how tenuous. After this has they spent what little they had on a plantation parties, I was 25 by the been established—“Yes! But you lotto ticket and won. They split the time I set foot in the town—and I might be speaking about my sister- winnings, went their separate ways had not been back since. in-law; it’s my mother who was at and ended up in different parts of Known as “The City of Smiles,” your wedding, because she’s a the country. My abuelito found Bacolod is a hodgepodge of low-rise

distant cousin of your brother-in- himself on the island of Negros— modern buildings interspersed with PHOTO STOCK BIANAN/ALAMY RODEL

34 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM colonial-era homes and grand Art- brother’s ice factory. “There isn’t Deco mansions such as Balay really much else to do, so yeah. We ni Tana Dicang and Daku Balay. Its just start drinking with friends. avenues are wide and sparse, and Bacolodians are known for being most of the action, if you can call it heavy drinkers.” Young and newly that, happens along Lacson Avenue, married, Nico was our designated a strip of restaurants and bars. tour guide and chaperone—a Visitors generally split their time position assigned him by my here traipsing from one specialty relatives, because there was no way restaurant to the next, or traveling we (my sister-in-law Allana and me) back in time via the city’s Downton would’ve been expected to fend for Abbey–esque heritage buildings, or ourselves. We were long-lost family. exploring local arts and culture at We would have to say “yes” to every the Negros Museum. invitation—and to every bite of food “Patawhay” is probably how locals and to every alcoholic drink. would describe Bacolod. Chill and In Bacolod, there was a lot to peaceful. The city’s generations-old be had of both. In a culture where plantations set its unhurried pace: grandmother’s cooking is always relaxed for six months of the year, best, only the top restaurants hectic for the October harvest, then survive, guaranteeing that almost tapering off again in April. Even everywhere you go here, the food is then, most operations run like amazing. The first meal of our visit clockwork. Clocks set, that is, to was breakfast at Maria Kucina Bacolodian time. Familia, a cozy café that served up CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: “I go to the office in the morning delicious home cooking. “People in Travel back in time down and I’m usually done by 11 a.m.,” Bacolod are so picky about their the ornate hallways of Baku Balay; good times said Nico Gatuslao, with a laugh. food,” explained owner Marili flow freely in Bacolod; Nico comes from a family of sugar Bascon Gonzaga. “Everyone has local heritage lives on

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: WILFREDO LUMAGABAS,JR.; STEPHANIE ZUBIRI (2) planters and now works in my their own family recipes, so our at Balay ni Tana Dicang. RODEL BIANAN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO STOCK BIANAN/ALAMY RODEL

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clientele is very critical.” Homemade tourist attraction—we were trapped chorizo, crispy fried adobo flakes, by a torrential downpour, leaving us beef tapa—Filipino classics made to with not much else to do but chat perfection and served with generous over a few San Miguels in the café. portions of garlic rice, eggs and Our next appointment was to meet pickled papaya made me feel like I a cousin of Allana at Urit Bar & was back at my Abuelita Rosing’s Lounge for some more drinking. breakfast table. It seemed the ghost And though it was only 4 p.m. when of my grandmother’s kitchen would we arrived, the bar was already full pleasantly haunt me for the next of raucous laughter. A large group three days. From the tangy cured was celebrating a birthday, taking anchovies, boquerones, at Café by full advantage of the P500 all-you- The Ruins to the comforting batchoy can-drink deal. Red-faced and noodle soup and crispy pigeon at joyous, they sent up countless Restaurant 21, everything had that refrains of “Cheers!” that became homey, made-with-love flavor. like a mantra—one that brought “Café and cucho-cucho; it’s a way you closer to a karmic hangover of life here,” Allana said. “All people than enlightenment. ILONGGO EXPRESSIONS do is drink coffee and gossip all day. After a few gin-and-tonics myself, Namit gid! It’s so good! Until of course it’s time for happy I pondered the name of the bar. Was Cucho-cucho To catch up, chat hour!” Which was pretty much all “Urit” someone’s nickname? “‘Urit and gossip the time. Later on, while visiting The na!’ is an expression that the field Urit na, inom na ta! The day’s over; let’s go and drink! Ruins—a storied Italian mansion hands say at the end of the day,” Salamat gid! Thank you! gutted by fire during World War II explained Norman, Allana’s cousin. Ka tahom! That’s amazing!/ and converted into an events space/ “It sort of means ‘The work is done. It’s amazing!

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: A Deluxe room at L Fisher Hotel; crispy crablet snacks

in 21 Restaurant; high spirits at Urit. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF L FISHER HOTEL; STEPHANIE ZUBIRI (2)

36 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM CMY

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Let’s go!’ ‘Urit na, inom na ta!’— no more”); and, importantly, so ‘Let’s go and drink!’ is something much more to see, particularly in CITY-CENTER CHIC, you’ll hear very often.” Up until that the surrounding islands—Sicogon, point, I had chalked up my penchant Lakawon and Danjugan—famous C’EST MAGNIFIQUE for a tipple to my Basque roots, but it for their fresh seafood, white-sand Discover Singapore in fine French style from an became very clear that my Negrense beaches and deserted coves. origins might be mostly to blame. In Bacolod, I felt at home. And elegant urban escape. My abuelita, who died in her sleep at I believe anyone would, because the ripe old age of 97, was a frequent Bacolodians, regardless of who is drinking partner of mine. Lunches related to whom, can’t help but with her meant sharing beer, white welcome everyone like long-lost wine or even a cognac, no matter if family. No wonder it’s dubbed it were broad daylight. “The City of Smiles.” I mean, who The evening went on as it had wouldn’t be smiling with all-day begun, with more food, drink and happy hour? distant relatives. A home-roasted suckling pig awaited us for dinner FROM TOP: in the beautiful house of some good Quedan’s well- A luxury friends, where a crowd of 20 had stocked wine The lush premium king rallied to give me a proper room; don’t miss infinity pool. guest room. Bacolodian welcome. Then followed Chicken House’s late-night truffle pizzas at Quedan, famous chicken inasal. iving up to its name, the ourselves with Champagne surrounded a cute little tapas place with a great optimally situated Sofitel by lushness, lounging up an appetite. wine list run by a cousin of mine. Singapore City Centre is Racines felt like an invitation from All night, I fielded the question, the perfect pied-à-terre for Executive Chef Jean-Charles Dubois “Why so short?!”—pertaining to my Lexplorations in the Lion City. Here to celebrate a blend of cultures with stay, of course. I effusively promised amid all the action of trendy Tanjong award-winning authentic French cuisine I’d be back; I meant it, too. There was Pagar, voted one of the coolest and refined local classics. We indulged still so much to eat (“you must try neighborhoods in the world, local in innovative culinary delights with the the inasal chicken from Chicken flavors, cultural treasures and buzzing dazzling cityscape as a backdrop, then House”); so much to drink (“Please, nightlife are right on the doorstep. We retired to the warm bar. At 1864 yet The arrival discovered them our way, thanks to more hidden gems awaited, not least lobby, Singapour Sofitel’s globally renowned cousu main the hotel’s delicious signature barrel- Je T’aime. experiences, tailor-made just for us, and aged cocktails and home-brewed craft lazed in the lap of luxury with the finest beer—one sip and it was no surprise dining hall is known for its dipped into a mixture of chili, the Italian-style structure was French hospitality on hand. that it just won Chairman’s Selection at THE DETAILS classic batchoy noodle soup. soy sauce and calamansi limes. built in the 1900s and gutted The crispy pigeon and crispy 63-34/434-9405; chicken and during World War II. It has since In our vibrant and expansive the Asia Beer Championship! STAY crablets are also worth the rice for two P250. been refurbished into a beautiful guestroom, comfort and connectivity Top day-trips were at our fingertips L Fisher The classic mid-range extra calories. 63-34/433-4096; events space with sprawling were prioritized and personalized: the at Singapore’s only hotel directly option in Bacolod might be dinner for two P1,000. DRINK gardens and a nice café. dated, but it’s well appointed high-speed WiFi ensured we could get connected to the MRT and after Pendy’s A must for freshly Urit Bar Well located and lively theruins.com.ph. and well located with excellent all digital work and play done quickly, exploring the city, five-star luxury made napoleones pastries and with a great selection of gin and Balay ni Tana Dicang Built service. lfisherhotelbacolod. and the high-tech entertainment and award-winning services were just other local sweet treats like all-you-can-drink specials daily during the colonial era and com; doubles P3,500. mango tarts and barquillos. 4–7 p.m. instagram: @uritbar; beautifully preserved, the systems offered our pick of flicks. When a convenient elevator ride away. A Seda Hotel Just two years old 63-34/434-0269. All You Can Drink P500. Lizares’ ancestral home feels we needed something extra, Sophie the gorgeous, gleaming hotel tower that with sleek, modern rooms and Felicia’s Pastry Shop Famous Quedan This cute tapas bar like a portal to another era. droid butler was just a call away. feels like a cozy home? That’s Sofitel nice amenities like a gym and for its 12-layer salted caramel seems to be the hot spot for Don’t miss the small space near Racines cuisine. pool deck. capitolcentral.seda It was so easy to customize our Singapore City Centre’s raison d’etre. sans rival cake—drop by for a Bacolod’s young and cool. It's the entrance exhibiting the hotels.com; doubles P5,000. contemporary artwork of one leisure time: the state-of-the-art SoFit mid-afternoon sugar rush normally packed to the brim, gym was open 24 hours. And a direct and coffee pick-me-up. so be sure to reserve for a great of the family’s descendants. EAT feliciaspastry.com; cake wine list with Spanish-Filipino balaytanadicang.webs.com connection to Virgin Active Fitness Maria Cusina Familia Home- and coffee for two P350. fare. instagram: @quedanbcd; Daku Balay Built and designed Club opened up a world of workout cooked Negrense classics in a Local flavors, cultural Chicken House Most locals will drinks for two P500. by prominent agriculturalist Don options—we loved anti-gravity yoga and cozy home setting with a say it’s one of the best places Generoso Villaneuva Sr. in the charming courtyard, famous for Bodypump. You can feel the burn while to get local specialty chicken SEE 1930s, the Art Deco structure is treasures and buzzing nightlife their all-day breakfast and taking in city sights, or skip it entirely inasal—lemongrass-marinated The Ruins The ancestral striking and worth a visit. Tours cakes. 63-9/36-944-5416; and annatto oil–brushed mansion of wealthy sugar baron are by appointment only. under tropical flora fringing the adjacent brunch for two P750. are right on the doorstep chicken, grilled over coals and Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson, 63-34/458-3109. — S.Z. rooftop infinity pool. We rewarded 21 Restaurant This iconic HOUSE CHICKEN OF COURTESY STEPHANIE ZUBIRI; TOP: FROM For bookings and enquiries, call +65 6428 5000 or email [email protected]. Follow us on social media: 38 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM FB/SofitelSingaporeCityCentre IG/sofitelsingaporecitycentre

11ADV_Sofitel.indd 39 10/9/2562 BE 14:34 FROM TOP: STEPHANIE ZUBIRI; COURTESY OF CHICKEN HOUSE 11ADV_Sofitel.indd 39 L CITY-CENTER CHIC, rooftop infinity pool. pool. We rewarded infinity rooftop adjacent the fringing flora tropical under entirely it skip or sights, city in taking while You burn feel the can Bodypump. options—we loved yoga anti-gravity and aworld up of workout Club opened to Virgin Fitness Active connection a direct And 24 hours. open was gym SoFit state-of-the-art the leisure time: acall away. just was droid butler the Sophie extra, something we needed When pick of flicks. our offered systems high-tech the entertainment and all quickly, play digital and work done we could get ensured WiFi high-speed the personalized: were and prioritized connectivity and comfort guestroom, hand. on hospitality French finest the with lap of luxury the in lazed and tailor-made for us, just experiences, main Sofitel’s globally cousu renowned way, to our discovered them thanks Wenightlife doorstep. the are right on buzzing and treasures cultural flavors, world, local the in neighborhoods coolestPagar, of the voted one Tanjong of trendy all action amid the City. Here Lion the in explorations ADVERTORIAL IG/sofitelsingaporecitycentre FB/SofitelSingaporeCityCentre media: social on us Follow [email protected]. email or 5000 6428 +65 call enquiries, and bookings For C’EST MAGNIFIQUE C’EST Discover Singapore in fine from Frenchan style It was so easy to customize our to our customize easy so was It expansive and vibrant our In the perfect pied-à-terre for perfect the is Centre City Singapore optimally Sofitel situated the to name, iving up its infinity pool. infinity The lush elegant urban escape. Singapore City Centre’s raison d’etre. Centre’s raison City Singapore likefeels Sofitel acozy That’s home? gleaming hotel tower that gorgeous, elevatora convenient away. ride A were just award-winning services and city, luxury exploring the five-star after and MRT to the connected at Singapore’s only hotel directly Championship! AsiaBeer the at won Chairman’s Selection just it that surprise no was it sip and beer—one aged cocktails and home-brewed craft barrel- hotel’s signature delicious the awaited, least not gems hidden more bar. yet warm toretired At the 1864 abackdrop, then as cityscape dazzling delights the with innovativein culinary indulged We classics. local refined and cuisine French award-winning authentic withto celebrateof cultures ablend Dubois Jean-Charles Chef Executive appetite. an up lounging by lushness, ourselves with Champagne surrounded treasures and buzzing nightlife nightlife buzzing and treasures Top day-trips fingertips were at our felt likeRacines from invitation an are right on the doorstep on the right are Local flavors, cultural cultural flavors, Local lobby, Singapour Racines cuisine. premium premium king guest room. The arrival arrival The Je T’aime. Je A luxury A 10/9/2562 BE 14:34 IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD

A Gambol in Geylang The old school rules in Geylang, where a colorful jumble of heritage shops, ornate temples, bustling kopitiams and legendary eateries invites a closer look at Singapore’s grittiest neighborhood. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY LESTER V. LEDESMA >>

The ornate 19 Lorong Bachok in Geylang.

40 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM PR14219 PRINT VIBES 20,32x26.67 ENG hi.pdf 1 01/10/2019 3:50 µµ IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD

2. 19 Lorong Bachok This ornate Singaporean shophouse hasn't changed in the 90 years since it was built—from the ancient Chinese folktales depicted on its exterior to its intricate Malay fretwork to the Sikh-guard bas-reliefs that adorn its main pillars. Located at the heart of Geylang’s most traditional Chinese area (a network of narrow side streets with martial arts schools, clan associations, and Buddhist 1. Five/6 Hotel Splendour In a neighborhood that famously and Taoist temples), it’s a good starting point for caters to the budget guest, this colorful hotel is one of a self-guided Geylang walking tour. the few that manage to elevate the affordable-travel experience. Sporting pops of artsy flair in its brightly painted façade and cheery interiors, Hotel Splendour may not be five-star, but its rooms come awash in thoughtful extras. Relax in your egg chair at the end of the day with free Netflix and complimentary minibar. SIMS AVENUE hotelsplendour.sg; S$117 per night.

ALJUNIED ROAD 2

GEYLANG ROAD 6

8. The Sultan Hotel This heritage 7. Yuu Xiang Dam Get your sugar hotel offers Art-Deco polish just five hit at this pint-sized one-stop shop minutes from western Geylang. for Asian desserts. Fill up on Occupying a row of restored early- traditional Chinese sweets like yam 1900s shophouses, it screams “old paste, mango pudding and chewy, Singapore” with its original French springy taro balls. Or go for crispy windows, plaster moldings and floor Malay apam balik pancakes stuffed tiles. All rooms are elegantly with anything from sweet corn and furnished, but it’s The Sultan’s 18 peanuts to chocolate and cheese. luxury suites—and its 2012 URA The house specialty, muak muak ice, Architectural Heritage Award—that gets top billing, though—a mouth- really set it apart, not to mention the watering bowl of shredded, flavored highly regarded One Bowl, its in-house ice lashed with kaleidoscopic Cantonese resto. thesultan.com.sg; toppings and tropical fruit. S$199 per night for a Sky Suite. fb.com/yuuxiangdamsg.

42 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM 3. The Skewer Bar Chef Vincent Low mixes Japanese culinary techniques with homegrown cuisine in this cozy neighborhood yakitori joint. The Skewer Bar complements its sea salt–seasoned and teriyaki- flavored meats with fusion dishes like local otah fishcakes rolled tamago-style and hawthorn-laced grilled chicken thigh. There’s also a novel take on the onigiri rice snack using nasi lemak coconut rice. The drinks list offers an extensive lineup of beer, whisky, wine, soju—and yes, sake. theskewerbar.com; skewers 4. Keng Wah Sung Kopitiam This little from S$1.50, mains from S$10. kopitiam (traditional café) has long been a fixture on Geylang Road, its resident food hawkers serving up tasty local fare like curry rice and bee hoon noodles for almost five decades. However, Keng Wah Sung’s main attraction is its roti kaya and kopi. The former is a thick coconut jam 4 served between slices of charcoal-toasted bread, while the latter is sweet, syrupy Hainanese-style coffee. Both are made using old family recipes handed down from the proprietor’s parents. 783 Geylang 5 Road; kayakopi set from S$4.

GEYLANG RIVER 5. Durian 36 The spiky, pungent “king of fruits” is a Singaporean obsession, and Geylang is the place to get it. Follow that unmistakable scent to Durian 36, one of the neighborhood’s abundant 24-hour roadside eateries, and the vendors there will happily crack open a durian for inspection. First-timers would do well to sample the red prawn variety, which GUILLEMARD ROAD has a mild flavor and sweet aftertaste, while true durian connoisseurs should go for the more intense, bittersweet mao shan wang or XO varieties. durian36.com; servings from S$10.

G eylang6. Chinese Cultural Shop It may look and feel like a regular antique shop, but this quirky little heirloom store is much more than just a repository of old things. In fact, most items here brim with cultural significance for the Singaporean Chinese. Vintage embroidered tapestries are on display, along with traditional Chinese instruments, martial arts equipment, wedding dowry baskets and countless other heritage finds. Third-generation owner Jeffrey Eng knows the merchandise by heart, and is keen to chat with visitors about the history of each object. fb.com/ChineseCulturalShop.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 43 BACKSTORY

ANGKOR IS COMMONLY known as a long haul into Indiana Jones The Next Chapter territory. Or worse. When I first visited in 1993, gunfire still With bespoke artisan décor, new luxury room categories and ricocheted around the spectacular a vintage author’s theme, the refurbished FCC Angkor enters relics of the grand Khmer empire, a new era of style. Ron Gluckman gets nostalgic. which had been heavily mined during decades of civil strife. Few guesthouses were open in gateway Siem Reap, and rare visitors like me raced around the ruins by jeep, with armed guards. But a decade later, I was lounging by the plush pool at the FCC Angkor (fcccollection.com; from FROM TOP: US$215). It was an incomparable A Hanuman statue oasis, in an unlikely location. welcomes guests These days visitors swarm the into The Mansion; local art and unesco World Heritage Site, explore design decorate its majestic stone structures covered

each space. in vines and tumbling into jungle, (6) ANGKOR OF FCC COURTESY FROM TOP : Downtime in The Mansion; a vintage author's theme permeates the hotel; enjoy a and afterwards putt around the nostalgic soak in floating villages of Tonle Sap Lake the Governor suite; one of the hotel's and take in the Phare Circus. Their two idyllic pools. average visit lasts two to three days. Unless, that is, they wish to laze around an iconic jewel like the FCC, which reopened in July after a 14-month restoration expanded the boutique hotel. It remains a period piece—but stylishly updated, in the same vein but different to the newly revamped Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor. Meanwhile, attractions like the growing art-rich district of Kandal Village make Siem Reap a compelling repeat destination. FCC stands for Foreign Correspondents’ Club, but the property never was one in the mode of (unrelated) FCC journalist clubs in Hong Kong, Tokyo or Seoul. Cambodia’s first FCC in Phnom Penh launched as a restaurant and pub in a glorious old mansion on the Tonle Sap River in 1993, just after the United Nations mission to bring peace to this troubled country. A flood of plucky expat entrepreneurs had followed the peacekeepers, and some partnered with journalists to open the FCC that quickly became Phnom Penh’s “in” place. A decade later, they expanded to Siem Reap, both properties under the umbrella

COURTESY OF FCC ANGKOR (6) ANGKOR OF FCC COURTESY FCC Collection.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 45 BACKSTORY

While the FCC Phnom Penh was a genuine hangout for journalists (disclosure: I became charter CLOCKWISE FROM member No. 22 during a reporting LEFT: Good eating at The Mansion; trip from Hong Kong), it was a Kandal Village, a grandiose but decidedly funky place, stroll from the with a handful of creaking wooden FCC; al fresco hotel rooms. The FCC Angkor, on the evenings beckon other hand, was a different beast, a at Scribe Bar. more upscale escape in a heritage building, with tranquil rooms overlooking a jungle garden with idyllic pool. It was once a police station, with barracks in the detachment guarding the nearby royal residences. For its original transition to hotel, architect Gary Fell, known for his sharp, modern tropical designs around Southeast Asia, transformed the police billets into Zen-like marvels of light wood and glass overlooking ponds and lush greenery.

The design focus was to be homegrown and eco-friendly. To decorate the resort, indigenous art and textiles were sourced from local collectives

The latest restoration has maintained that special magic, even while expanding the property, adding a spa and second pool, and boosting the room count from 30 to 80. A new building was erected across the street, connected to The Mansion (the bright all-day dining room) and old barracks via walkways trimmed with verdant rice stalks and flowers. From the spacious Governor suite (66 square meters) overlooking the pool, it seemed exactly as I remembered from my first visit, and I struggled to recall if there had been a second story (there hadn’t). “We wanted to make everything look and feel the way it was,” says Malee Whitcraft, a Dutch resident of Bangkok, who with her husband Kevin Whitcraft, took over FCC Collection five years ago. Kevin was born and raised in Thailand, first

visited Cambodia in the 1980s and, (3) ANGKOR OF FCC COURTESY

46 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM the following decade, opened a bar near the FCC Phnom Penh, having always loved the place. Malee oversaw interior design, KANDAL VILLAGE working with Phnom Penh–based A FIVE-MINUTE MOSEY FROM THE FCC ANGKOR, THIS CLUTCH OF CUTE SHOPS IS YOUR GO-TO FOR CAMBODIAN ART AND HANDICRAFTS, AND GREAT EATS. Bloom Architecture. She tracked down local craftsmen at Sam Orn Silver Handicraft, but had them Cambodia’s coolest Niko became an icon in including international neighborhood of cafés, Phnom Penh before star Fin Dac, and nurtures instead tackle copper, hammering art galleries, boutiques moving to the less- local talent, like out shimmering sinks, shower pipes and craft shops stressful Siem Reap. She’s handicapped protégé Morn and fittings in every room. A main conveniently occupies a a longtime resident who Chear, who creates focus was to be homegrown and eco- compact few streets, lives above the shop, and astonishing block prints friendly, so they used the leftover walking distance from the creates her signature despite having lost both FCC Angkor, and adjoining Buddha statues here in an arms. Tribe has a fantastic copper for room-number markers the former French Quarter array of vivid colors. 664 vibe, serving great coffee and clever cutouts of local animals and Old Market. This ever- Hup Guan St. and cocktails, with regular and ancient figures from Cambodia’s expanding bohemian artist showcases and rich folklore. The place is filled with district offers more than 4. Maison Sirivan community art projects. two-dozen places to shop This chic design showcase 655 Central Market St. local materials and sustainable and plenty of places to offers a nifty blend of wood—and no plastic. She chose dine—here are some of our Parisian fashion and 7. Khmer 652 indigenous art and textiles to favorite vendors. locally produced clothing Everything about this decorate the resort, sourcing from for men and women. charming little 12-table local collectives. “All the designs 1. Little Red Fox Cambodian Sirivan Chak- eatery shouts simplicity Australian David Stirling Dumas returned from and authenticity. Yet there have different meanings and is widely credited with years abroad studying is nothing subtle about stories,” she says. kicking off Kandal Village, French fashion to build a Chef Anna’s flavorful I especially liked her as he was one of the first collection of her own Cambodian dishes. “Our furniture—a mix of wicker and to relocate to this then- designs, crafted by local food almost disappeared,” quiet backwater of textile workers. she says. “I wanted to help rattan chairs in the restaurant and atmospheric old maisonsirivan.com; 10 Hup bring it back.” She chose terraces, and Cambodian deco–style shophouses. His popular Guan St. Kandal for the quiet; the couches and stuffed chairs that café offers bountiful name is the street number. recall giant wooden radios from the breakfasts, yummy 5. Mademoiselle Thyda Staples include samlor Golden Age. Everything is unique, smoothie bowls and some This gourmet spice, tea korko, a fragrant fish soup of the best coffee in and deli run by a Siem steeped in lemongrass yet fits together, like a collection you Cambodia, with great local Reap returnee from Paris and coconut milk, and beef might find in a friend’s tropical music and art. showcases high-end, fair- lok lak, tender marinated estate. “The idea was to make it very thelittleredfoxespresso. trade local delicacies from beef in a tangy sweet-and- homey,” Malee says. Additionally, a com; 593 Hap Guan St. famed Kampot pepper and sour sauce with to-die-for salt to Cambodian rum, Kampot-pepper-and-lime subtle correspondents theme 2. Trunkh organic jam, hibiscus and dip. khmer652.com; 652 pervades: in the comfy and This amazing lifestyle and butterfly-pea tea. The Hap Guan St. uncluttered rooms sit old-fashioned design shop showcases spice racks abound with typewriters, phones and notebooks. everything from crafts and fragrant Khmer chili, 8. Maybe Later The main bar, in front of The clothes to gigantic animals turmeric and amok, and Mexican food in Asia from an old carousel. there is a nice selection of can be notoriously Mansion, has been zipped up with Everything here is US$5 sample tubes that disappointing, but this chrome and glass, and is now the Cambodian-made, apart are easy to take back top-notch cantina needs modern Scribe Bar. from Australian owners home. mademoisellethyda. no disclaimer. Maybe Down in the capital, the Philip and Dennis, who com; 670 Hap Guan St. Later made its mark in originally operated Trunkh Sihanoukville, but the Whitcrafts have already begun a in Phnom Penh before 6. Tribe Cambodia Art owners tired of the chaos. massive restoration of the Phnom relocating to the more Gallery The coast’s loss is Siem Penh FCC, with reopening planned serene Siem Reap. Trunkh Londoners Nat Di Maggio Reap’s delicious reward. for 2020. It will take into the fold an supports local NGOs and and Terry McIlkenny were A bulging burrito bowl is early-1900s mansion next door to the collectives, and ships immersed in the UK US$5.50, while their anywhere. A huge metal street-art scene, and have scrumptious fish tacos are FCC that was long vacant and horse or rabbit of 20 kilos transported a buzzy ethos US$5.50 for two. And dig riddled with bullet holes. The refurb runs US$350 plus to this art gallery/bar in a the wild Mexican death will add suites, art galleries and shipping. trunkh.com; spillover area of Kandal murals and icy cervezas, rooftop dining with views over the 642-644 Hap Guan St. Village where barbershops as well as the sign: and massage stands are “Mexican Food So Good, National Museum and Royal Palace, 3. Niko’s Studio rapidly turning into Trump Wants to Build a all the while keeping the property A renowned artist in galleries. Tribe promotes Wall.” 713, Street 14

COURTESY OF FCC ANGKOR (3) ANGKOR OF FCC COURTESY true to its original 1910s form. Cambodia, Frenchwoman a wide array of artists, Mondul 1 Village.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 47 DINING

A classic Emilian breakfast at Casa Maria Luigia, in Modena.

HOME OF PAVAROTTI and Parmigiano, Modena, in the northern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, has much to recommend it. The A New Game historic center is replete with cobblestoned streets and ocher-shaded buildings, and the city’s roster of culinary pleasures includes balsamic vinegar, tortellini en brodo, and various types of traditional in Modena salumi. Its lived-in charm is due in part to its relative dearth of international visitors: bucket-list types tend to drop in to town only Chef Massimo Bottura and his wife, Lara to sample the region’s famous balsamic vinegar and cash in their Gilmore—the heart and soul of Modena coveted reservation at Modena native Massimo Bottura’s world- tourism—have debuted an inn that famous restaurant, Osteria Francescana (osteriafrancescana.it; provides a great base for discovering the tasting menu €300). northern Italian town’s many culinary Because of this drive-by approach, the city hasn’t had any luxury attractions. BY PETER J. FRANK hotels—until now. Casa Maria Luigia (casamaria luigia.com; doubles from €465), a sophisticated new inn from Chef Bottura and his wife and business partner, Lara Gilmore, opened in May. The couple acquired the 19th-century estate, located about 15 minutes outside of town, in 2017 and set about turning it into a 12-room guesthouse, sourcing eclectic furniture from antique fairs and vintage shops and hanging works from their extensive collection of contemporary art. The pool, tennis court and gardens contribute to the sense of chic country living, as does the communal kitchen, which is stocked with

snacks and half-bottles of Lambrusco. DAVIDE PIFERI DE SIMONI/COURTESY OF CASA MARIA LUIGIA FROM TOP: COURTESY OF ACETAIA GIUSTI; PAOLO TERZI/COURTESY OF ARCHER. ILLUSTRATION BY PARSEY MAY

48 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM “The estate was once owned by a man who was something of a belgioioso—a happy-go-lucky playboy,” Gilmore told me when I visited the property this spring. “I wanted to capture that spirit but make it more feminine.” The couple chose vibrant Gucci wallpapers for the rooms and made sure each contained an element of surprise—I spotted a lampshade printed with a Stooges lyric in one room, a louche Wolfgang Tillmans photograph in another, and a spiral staircase leading to a private sundeck. Barbara Kruger’s Untitled (Go/Stay) hangs between a vintage Victrola and an Art Deco bar in the cocktail room, a Lego version of Ai Wei Wei’s Dropping a Mimmo Han Dynasty Urn dominates the entrance hall, and a Tracey Emin Paladino’s neon piece—Red, White and Fucking Blue—hangs in another Warrior in sitting area. Bronze on “We wanted to share our passions and stories with people,” the grounds of Casa Bottura told me. They’re also sharing Bottura’s cooking: guests will Maria Luigia. have guaranteed reservations for intimate dinners in the inn’s dining room, Francescana at Maria Luigia, featuring several of the Osteria’s greatest hits, including “five ages of Parmigiano- Reggiano” and “the crunchy part of the lasagna.” “We are trying Bottura has become something of a culinary something new, and putting ourselves out on a limb a bit,” he says. ambassador for his hometown, championing “But this is who we are—our outlook on the world.” the artisans, trattorias and bars that have been a constant in his life and shaped him as both diner and chef. He and Gilmore can often be spotted dining around town or visiting local food producers. Here, the duo share a few of their go-to spots.

TRATTORIA BIANCA On Mondays, when Osteria Francescana is closed, Bottura and Gilmore take their children to this bastion of culinary tradition, family-owned since 1948. Their routine? Start with gnocco fritto, squares of fried dough served with prosciutto, mortadella and sour- cherry jam. Follow with tortellini en brodo, then a plate of its big brother, tortelloni, stuffed with ricotta or pumpkin. trattoriabianca.it; mains €12–€30.

TRATTORIA POMPOSA “Casual, lively, and full of good vibes, on one of Modena’s loveliest piazzas,” Bottura says of Pomposa. Watch the pasta being made by hand in the front room—specialties include gramigna, a short, curled egg pasta, served with sausage, and lasagna verde. trattoria pomposa.it; mains €8–€13.

RISTORANTE DA ENZO “Growing up, my family would come here to have Sunday lunch together,” Bottura notes. The menu of well-executed classics—tortelli with spinach and ricotta; tagliatelle alla Lara Gilmore and Massimo bolognese—still draws a steady crowd of locals. Bottura at their new inn, fb.com/ristorantedaenzo modena; mains Casa Maria Luigia.

DAVIDE PIFERI DE SIMONI/COURTESY OF CASA MARIA LUIGIA FROM TOP: COURTESY OF ACETAIA GIUSTI; PAOLO TERZI/COURTESY OF ARCHER. ILLUSTRATION BY PARSEY MAY €10–€17.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 49 DINING

TRATTORIA BIANCA TO ACETAIA GIUSTI Modena

VialeMazzoni Guido A bartender at Acetaia Giusti whips up a balsamic CorsoEmanuele Vittorio II cocktail.

TRATTORIA POMPOSA

RISTORANTE DA ENZO

ARCHER

Via Emilia Centro

Viale Caduti in Guerra

ARCHER Via degli Adelardi Grab an outdoor table with a view of the OSTERIA Ghirlandina bell tower at this wine bar on FRANCESCANA cobblestoned Via Cesare Battisti. “Marina, the owner and sommelier, is passionate about TO HOMBRE TO CASA MARIA LUIGIA biodynamic wines, drinking local, and quality ingredients,” Gilmore says. fb.com/archer modena.

ACETAIA GIUSTI In a city that has a staggering number of balsamic vinegar producers, this is purportedly the oldest. It was founded in 1605 and is still run by the same family, 17 generations later. “Giusti not only produces fabulous balsamico but offers tours in a lovely setting,” says Bottura of the factory and museum just outside of town. giusti.it.

HOMBRE This dairy farm, a 15-minute drive from town, was one of the first to produce Parmigiano- Reggiano organically. It is fanatical about quality. Bottura is such a devotee that he celebrated his third Michelin star with a party there. Visit to learn about (and taste) the cheese—and to see the Panini family’s eye- popping collection of vintage Maseratis, Lamborghini tractors, and motorbikes. hombre.it. Archer, a breezy wine bar in downtown Modena. FROM TOP: CALLO ALBANESE E SUEO/COURTESY OF CASA MARIA LUIGIA; PAOLO TERZI/COURTESY OF CASA MARIA LUIGIA

50 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM FROM TOP: CALLO ALBANESE E SUEO/COURTESY OF CASA MARIA LUIGIA; PAOLO TERZI/COURTESY OF CASA MARIA LUIGIA subscribe now!

Every month, more than 5 million people worldwide read Travel+Leisure, the world’s leading travel magazine. Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia NOVEMBER 2019 SOUTHEAST ASIA is the most widely distributed international edition of the magazine, Time travel in offering readers around the region a chance to experience the world. TIBET Timely and trusted advice on where INSIDER ’S GUIDE TO

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PUT YOURSELF IN THE PICTURE: HOLIDAYS MADE BY INSTAGRAM

#travelgram Sleuth your way through the crazy-popular photo-sharing app to Insta-plan your next, best vacation. BY CHRIS SCHALKX. ILLUSTRATIONS BY WASINEE CHANTAKORN It’s painfully easy to waste hours scrolling through whimsical sunset shots and artfully plated dishes on Instagram. How about turning this time into a productive trip-planning sesh instead? With more than a billion users from every corner of the globe, no other platform harbors such a wealth of hyper-local and real-time travel information. You need to know how to cut through the selfies and #OutfitOfTheDay nonsense, but once you do you’ll be swimming in the insider intel that traditional guidebooks—and even on-the-ground blogs—are missing.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 53 UPGRADE: IG

BEFORE YOU GO 1. Hunt for Hashtags Instagram’s search engine isn’t the most robust, but with a little creativity, you can surface relevant posts through hashtags. Be specific, though; a search for #bangkok returns sexy selfies, handbag advertisements and blurry food shots, but look up We’ve picked out some of our #bangkokbrunch, and you’ll discover tucked-away coffee shops favorite Instagrammers and the best addresses for avocado toast. around Asia and asked them to share the best insider tips from their timelines.

THE INSIDERS

@samishome — Hong Kong

“When in Hong Kong, seek out its typical local cafés (cha chaan teng). Matchbox Café in Causeway Bay ■ Tap the magnifying glass at the ■ Play around with prefixes and harkens back to the 60s–70s and is bottom of the Instagram app to affixes to find exactly what you’re outfitted in retro interiors and fake open the “search” page. Type your looking for. Always include the minibus booths. Order the char siu #saigon pork macaroni soup!” search query (e.g. ) then name of your destination. The hit TAGS. You’ll be presented with search page will come up with a list of hashtags. Tap one and suggestions and predictions based posts with that hashtag will on what you type, giving you even appear under two tabs; TOP (the more ideas. Some tried-and- most-liked posts) and RECENT. tested examples: Cafés—#cafehopping[city] ■ Once you’ve uncovered useful Food ideas—#[city]foodie hashtags, you can “follow” them, Scenic spots —#adayin[city] so that the hashtag’s top results Tourist sites—#discover[city] show up in your Instagram feed. Activities—#thingstodo[city]

54 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM 3. Or the Jet- Setting Tastemakers Let’s face it: Some people just travel better. Always on the move, perpetually at the newest bars, best boutique hotels and hippest galleries whether in Mumbai or Tokyo. And lucky for us, many of them love sharing their whereabouts. Steer clear of the million-or-so-follower influencers whose pictures only involve themselves draped over the ledge of an infinity pool somewhere tropical, bank-breaking and sponsored. Instead, hunt for those sharing the interesting bits of a destination. 2. Follow the Locals Instagram has spawned a legion of local ■ If you’re a food-focused traveler, use Instagram’s search ambassadors who proudly share their engine to look up profiles of globetrotting chefs (@pawkhrua, hometown. They’re often the best source @andrechiang_sg, @chefjoseandres) or food writers for insider intel: new bars, off-the-beaten- (@francis_lam, @kat_odell) who usually eat at the most path markets and local street-food carts. interesting restaurants—or street joints. Design buffs should seek out traveling architects, designers and other ■ Start by using the search engine to look up creatives (@kellywearstler, @jj.acuna, @serendella) as they travel-related pages that crowdsource their often have a penchant for finding a place’s prettiest spots. content. Usually, tourism boards (@visit_ singapore, @vietnamtourismboard), travel ■ Stuck for inspiration? Browsing through the bylines in media (@travelandleisureasia), or unofficial your favorite travel, design or food magazines, and then fan accounts (@webangkok, @hongkong.insta) looking them up on Instagram is a good start. are good starting points. Just typing a city’s name will usually result in a list of useful ■ Once you’ve discovered a page you like, tap SUGGESTED pages to start with. In many cases, a blue FOR YOU under their profile (hit the downward arrow next checkmark indicates it’s an official account. to MESSAGE ) and swipe across for similar pages.

■ When you see a shot you like, tap through to Better yet, some Instagrammers make it easy to discover the profile of the source (usually mentioned in their tips by neatly grouping them in Stories Highlights on the caption, or tagged in the picture itself) to their profile. For example, @taiwanwalker is a foodie tour find what else they’ve been sharing. guide who pins her top food recommendations from Tainan to Kyushu with clear city labels. Others, like travel journalist ■ Some cities might not have an active tourism Gloria Chung of @foodandtravelhk, label their top tips with board or fan page. But searching for hashtags city-specific, easy-to-find hashtags like #foodandtravelSeoul like #[city]insider, #[city]blogger, or #[city]life and #foodandtravelBrisbane, helping their followers create often yields good results too. instant city guides in a jiffy.

@foodsaketokyo—Tokyo THE INSIDERS “Shinjuku Sanchome is filled with casual izakaya. Start off at Saiseisakaba with grilled skewers and onigiri, then continue the evening in the area.”

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 55 UPGRADE: IG

5.Just Ask! Something you still don’t know? Chances are, some of your followers have been there before. Since not every part of one’s trip— even if they’re highlights— ends up on Instagram, it usually pays to ask for recommendations.

■ Put up a simple Instagram Story (with or without a “Q+A sticker”) or a post announcing that you’re planning a trip somewhere with a request for tips. Be specific: if you’re looking for vegan restaurants, 4.Reverse-Engineer Itineraries make it clear in order to avoid Why reinvent the wheel? Benefit from the research previous a barrage of useless (but well- travelers have already conducted by reverse-engineering their intentioned) advice. itineraries through their Instagram posts. ■ For the best results, make sure your profile is set to ■ Find someone with a similar travel Peak, but only those in the know will public. Add a few relevant style by clicking on a post of a venue check-in at Asia Society’s equally hashtags to your post or story you want to visit. Under the business photo-worthy rooftop garden. The to be discovered by more name will be the location in smaller latter are more likely to have shared users outside of your network type. Tap it and the “location” page other under-the-radar spots worth who could offer tips. Adding will open, with public posts of checking out. the geotag of the city you’re everyone who has checked in here. visiting is a good idea, too. ■ This is a great technique to scout ■ Now, tap on a user and scope out out interesting local Instagrammers, ■ Also “@” mention your their profile to see where else they’ve too: start off at a neighborhood diner destination’s official tourism checked in. The more niche your or a non-touristy café, and tap board if they’re on starting point, the better: just about through to its location page to see Instagram—who knows the every tourist will check-in at Victoria which locals have checked in there. cool stuff they can help with!

THE @ieatishootipost—Singapore INSIDERS “This stall at Chinatown Complex Food Centre in Singapore serves the most traditional cendol. Everything is still made by hand, and a bowl of this sweet treat costs only S$2!”

56 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM THE INSIDERS 6. Get Organized The Instagram app allows you to “bookmark” other peoples’ Instagram posts in a private collection, helping you easily @wearekinkin reference them again later. Instagram’s “saved posts” interface — lets you categorize your bookmarks in “collections.” Here’s where things get interesting: you can create as many collections as Bangkok you’d like, making it a powerful tool to organize travel tips. “For top-notch Thai-Chinese food, don’t just stick to Yaowarat (like all ■ To save a post, tap the little collection for each upcoming trip, the guidebooks tell you). Instead, we bookmark icon below the post or divide it even further into point our friends to Chokdee Kao you’d like to save. A single tap collections for restaurants, hotels Mun Kai, a hole-in-the-wall in will send it directly to your and in-the-know Instagrammers Samsen. Don’t miss their signature goat stew and stir-fried bitter gourd “saved posts” folder for you in places you’re planning to hit with egg!” to access at a later date. up. As the word-count for collection titles is limited, using ■ Tap the bookmark button a emojis (flags, food) can help you little longer, and you will be save space, and make the prompted to save it to a specific different collections instantly collection. Add your post to an recognizable. existing collection, or create a new collection from scratch by ■ Once you get to the actual trip adding a title. planning, you have a useful list of interesting places at the ready. ■ To keep things neatly Plot them on Google Maps, and organized, create a separate you’re good to go.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 57 UPGRADE: IG

ON THE GROUND

Get the Lay Feast Hungry THE INSIDERS of the Land Eyes Thanks to Instagram’s geotag Some dishes sound great written @taipeifoodie search function, you can have out, but are a letdown in reality. complete strangers do a recce Then there are those gastronomic — before your trip to a certain spot. terms (escabeche? involtini?) A browse through the photos that you’re too embarrassed to ask Taipei earlier visitors have posted at a about. Local joints might have no location gains you the kind of intel menu at all or nothing in English. “A visit to Taipei isn’t complete you usually won’t find on a Instagram, yet again, to the without dropping by one of its many teahouses. Located on historic Dihua brand’s website or in travel rescue. Find the restaurant’s Street, South Street Delight Tea guides. Use it to learn about dress location page or its profile and tap House is a favorite of mine. The old- codes at restaurants (are people in through to the posts it’s tagged in timey interior is very photogenic.” the pictures decked out to the to get an overview of what folks nines, or more casual?), family- are eating. Spot the must-order friendliness of hotels (do you see dishes and even turn your phone lots of kids in pictures?), or into a pick-and-point menu that general accessibility of a place can break any language barrier. (are tables spaced far enough apart for a wheelchair user to pass through?). A browse through these geotagged pictures also gives you objective insight into a Find Real- venue, untainted by the highly stylized brand images or press Time Info shots you’ll find on the brand’s Instagram Stories, the snappy, own channels. full-screen updates accessed

58 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM Use it for crowd-sourced weather as @mo_singapore (Mandarin forecasts, or to get a feel of how Oriental Singapore’s Instagram busy a foodie hotspot will be Your Way through Marina Bay during lunch or dinnertime. It’s package) and @capellashanghai also a fail-safe way to find out if a (Capella Shanghai’s Point, Shoot, venue is actually open: published Retouch experience) offer opening times aren’t always activities and deals that include up-to-date, public holidays could tours with professional affect them, and not every photographers and influencers, establishment—especially mom- showing you the city’s prettiest and-pops—has a contact number. corners and sharing the tricks If you see that guests have checked of the trade. in within the past hour, chances are high you’re not going to encounter closed doors. Follow Your Favorites Stay Inspired Every hotel, bar and restaurant Stuck for photo inspiration? A worth patronizing has a presence quick scroll through the pictures on Instagram these days. snapped by visitors before you By following the accounts of will help get your creative juices businesses you’re planning to through the bubbles on top of the flowing. Use the location page to visit, you will be the first to know Instagram app, are often a great see what angles and subjects other about events, specials and source of real-time information. photographers are using to promotions—which often don’t Contrary to regular posts, which capture the place—whether it’s get communicated on websites. are often heavily retouched and/ a photo-worthy vantage point or @potatoheadbali announces their or published days after the photo a backdrop for the perfect selfie. guest DJs via their Instagram; was taken, Instagram Stories are This will often also uncover @canvasbkk shares their weekly usually unfiltered and posted on hidden corners of a place you specials with a photo on their the spur of the moment. Browse might not have found by simply timeline. If you have specific to a location page, and tap the walking around. Serious questions (or want to make a rainbow-bordered bubble to see shutterbugs can take their reservation), getting in touch Instagram Stories posted from Instagram game up a notch by through Instagram direct here within the last 24 hours (the joining forces with a seasoned message can be much quicker lifespan of a Stories update). photographer. Some hotels, such than reaching out via e-mail.

@lineshapecolour — THE INSIDERS Saigon

“With its vibrant markets, ancient pagodas and amazing food, Saigon’s District 5 is one of my favorite areas. So full of character and lots of color!”

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 59 UPGRADE: IG

POST-TRIP TIPS

THE INSIDERS

@euniceeunny — Create a Pay it Back Kuala Lumpur Instagram as a travel guide is Keepsake only as good as its users make “KL locals really, really love their Having a recap of a trip on your it. It’s good to give back so that pork noodles. On my mission to hunt Instagram timeline is great (and others can benefit from your down the best bowl in Klang Valley useful to keep a record of the (I have more than 100 spots saved!), experiences (and to help ensure Kedai Kopi Wah Cheong does one of places you’ve been), but nothing that lovely, family-run restaurant the best versions. beats reminiscing about past you shared receives a little more holidays with tangible keepsakes patronage). Make it easy for other in hand. Services such as travelers to discover your posts by @artifactuprising’s “Instagram adding an accurate geotag, and Friendly Books” make designing always add a few hashtags to your and printing holiday photo post description that are albums as easy as logging in on indicative of the photo you’re your Instagram account and sharing. picking the photos you’d like to include. And then there’s always ... the good ol’ postcard: Apps like Now, put the phone down and @postagram will print and send actually look at that painting, float customizable postcards using in the sea, and, for goodness’ sake, your favorite Instagram snaps. eat that dish before it gets cold.

60 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM

DEALS

T+L READER SPECIALS Urban breaks, couples’ trips, beachy family getaways—whether CITY you’re in need of sunshine, seascapes or city thrills, this month HONG KONG Upper House there’s a deal for every mood. This iconic establishment has just turned 10 and to mark the occasion they’ve created a special anniversary package. Get luxury accommodation; a bottle of 2009 vintage; a three-hour, expert-led Hong Kong Safari experience; a welcome gift from matchesfashion.com; daily breakfast at Café Gray Deluxe; and round-trip airport transfers. Stay in an Upper Suite and get the added perks of HK$1,010 House credit per day and dinner for two at Yardbird. The Deal The 10 Year Journey rates start from HK$5,700 per night for a Studio 80, and from HK$11,500 for an Upper Suite. Available for stays until December 31, with a minimum two-night booking. upperhouse. com.

CHINA Rosewood Guangzhou You can now get your Rosewood fix in Guangzhou with the opening of the brand’s newest property, centrally located in Tianhe District. Rosewood Guangzhou is the tallest hotel in the mainland, and home to the country’s highest sky bar, dizzyingly positioned on the 107th floor. Be one of the first to stay and Sky Lounge, enjoy exclusive benefits. Upper House, Opening rates get you stylish Hong Kong. accommodation with spectacular city views, Wi-Fi, daily breakfast, a bottle of Rosewood’s limited-edition house Negroni on arrival, SUPERSAVER access to the fitness center Kerry Hotel and RMB880 credit per day to spend on dining in the hotel. Book a staycation at this harborside hotel and receive daily The Deal This Special buffet breakfast, dinner for two adults and one child under 12, Introductory Rate starts from a kid’s amenity bag, and access to the fitness center and RMB2,880 per night for a infinity pool. The Deal The Staycation Offer averages from Grand Studio suite, available HK$2,310 per night, with double GC award points for Golden until December 31.

Circle members. shangri-la.com. rosewoodhotels.com. HOTEL KERRY OF COURTESY HOUSE; UPPER OF COURTESY TOP: FROM COURTESY OF W BALI

62 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM FROM TOP: COURTESY OF UPPER HOUSE; COURTESY OF KERRY HOTEL

COURTESY OF W BALI As one of Vietnam’s most most Vietnam’s of one As August 2020. Anantara Hua Hin Anantara (subject to dates and and dates to (subject spa pampering or hit the the hit or pampering spa resort Thai-style sprawling hours’ three just resort seaside you interiors, swish and sound bed, Wking signature decompress. Cool off in one of of one in off Cool decompress. to opportunity of plenty offers Enveloped Bangkok. from drive minimum occupancy), from starts Escape Villa credit per stay and breakfast breakfast and stay per credit could just as easily stay in your your in stay easily as just could Bose system, entertainment around US$450 per night for a for night per US$450 around throughout are scattered at spread buffet asit-down and Wonderful One-Bedroom villa villa One-Bedroom Wonderful wellness, relax with signature signature with relax wellness, this at offer aweekday with villa 24/7. villa to Thursdays. Thursdays. to close in you’re town—here Ayurvedic some try pools, two this Thailand, of Gulf the until valid stay, three-night from astroll greenery tropical Seminyak. Stay three or more more or three Stay Seminyak. Special: from Bt3,500 per per Bt3,500 from Special: and clubs beach Seminyak’s Villas restaurant. Bloo Starfish floating breakfast in your pool pool your in breakfast floating between for two—choose Chase the sun to your own own your to sun the Chase VIETNAM night, including daily buffet Hin’s lengthy Hua to proximity daybed, outdoor villa, pool dining US$100 as such perks, special unlock and nights WBali at villa pool private Six Senses Con Dao Con Senses Six THAILAND Bensley–designed gardens on on gardens Bensley–designed behind nine-to-five the Leave W Bali list of leisure attractions. oflist leisure attractions. 5 in breakfast, valid from Sundays Sundays from valid breakfast, private alush with But bars. Deal ROMANCE ROMANCE BEACH INDONESIA ½ The The hectares of Bill Bill of hectares Weekday Escape Weekday Escape The Deal

marriott.com. anantara.com.

The Pool Pool The The The 120-minute Romance Spa Spa Romance 120-minute sixsenses.com. sparkling wine in their villa villa their in wine sparkling just apackage with shores night, per US$630 from starts gift, a floating breakfast with with breakfast afloating gift, ocean views. views. ocean the by dinner, breakfast daily every one with panoramic panoramic with one every airport transfers. On top of all all of top On transfers. airport round-trip and class a cooking This getaway. a couple’s valid until August 2020. 2020. August until valid that you’ve got your choice of of choice your got you’ve that Con Dao ticks all the boxes for for boxes the all ticks Dao Con pool, a private dinner for two, a two, for dinner aprivate pool, a picnic, beach aprivate pool, the on capitalizes package made for romance. Lovebirds Lovebirds romance. for made stay, minumum three-night receive a special honeymoon honeymoon aspecial receive THAILAND Honeymoon on sultry Samui Samui sultry on Honeymoon Getaway Island Romantic W Samui 60-minute couple’s massage, massage, couple’s 60-minute island’s dreamy settings with a with settings dreamy island’s big, breezy chic pool villas, villas, pool chic breezy big, aromantic two, for trip boat beautiful beach destinations, The Deal The The This new property offers a offers property new This The Deal Deal The wkohsamui.com sundowners, a cooking class or or class acooking sundowners, decor, ice round-the-clock cream from the Sweet Spot Spot Sweet the from cream cocktail-making session, session, cocktail-making package The plushies. cookie bath candles, cookie-scented robes, cookie corner, cookie cookie.The suite Cookie available until March 2020. 2020. March until available transfers. aiport roundtrip and and one-time complimentary and kit abeach amenities, villa, minimum two-night stay, stay, two-night minimum villa, families with a suite inspired inspired asuite with families for experience first-of-its-kind features a made-for-Instagram amade-for-Instagram features night for a Jungle Oasis Pool Pool Oasis aJungle for night percent off resort dining, Wi-Fi, Wi-Fi, dining, resort off percent return airport transfers, 20 20 transfers, airport return THAILAND Escape: from Bt15,000 per per Bt15,000 from Escape: Package, honeymoon villa includes breakfast for two, two, for breakfast includes by the signature DoubleTree signature the by Phuket Banthai DoubleTree Hilton by FAMILY TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM The Honeymoon Honeymoon The . Take the kids on a safari asafari on Take kids the

com. com. The Ritz-Carlton Millenia Millenia Ritz-Carlton The surprise. surprise. Colony, at cream ice of scoop out with a kid-size safari tent tent safari akid-size with out adventure without leaving your your leaving without adventure activity book, Ritz-Carlton lion lion Ritz-Carlton book, activity while birthday boys and girls girls and boys birthday while their in stamps five collect who that comes with a night-light, anight-light, with comes that code the enter or suite themed turndown snacks. Children Children snacks. turndown child-friendly and toy Suite Experiential Package: Package: Experiential Suite S$650 per night and is valid valid is and night per S$650 until December 30. When When 30. December until until December 30. 30. December until family room and find it kitted kitted it find and room family a with night, per Bt8,500 from minimum two-night stay, valid minimum two-night minibar. receive a birthday cake cake abirthday receive PRCOOK. Kids Night Safari starts from from starts Safari Night Kids a earn passport Kidz Ritz hotel. Choose your preferred preferred your Choose hotel. the cookie- booking, specify SINGAPORE

/ 2019 NOVEMBER The Deal The Deal doubletree3.hilton. One-Bedroom A Wonderful The Cookie Cookie The The Ritz Ritz The ritzcarlton. at W Bali. at Pool villa 63

APRIL WONG NOVEMBER 2019

IT MAY BE THE LOWEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD, BUT LUXURY RESORTS—AND ESCHEW EVEREST BASE CAMP HOPES OF FOR A TASTE OF TRUE NOMADIC ENVIRONMENTALISTS—ARE LIFE, IN THE OFF-THE-RADAR, ON THE UP IN THE LAND-BEFORE-TIME KHAM MALDIVES REGION OF TIBET P. 76

WHAT’S BETTER THAN SWIMMING WITH A HUMPBACK WHALE? HAVING YOUR OWN PERSONAL PHOTOGRAPHER UNDER THE WAVES TO DOCUMENT IT. NATURE RULES IN OUR PHOTO ESSAY OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC P. 88

SAY ‘YES’ TO HAND-FED SARDINES IN THE UNTAMED ALGARVE, WHERE PEOPLE LIVE STRAIGHT OFF THE LAND AND THE OH-SO-ABUNDANT SEA OFF OF SOUTHERN Among a school of barracuda in

APRIL WONG APRIL PORTUGAL Fiji, page 88.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COMTRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER / JUNE 2019 5965 Maldives Rising A GROUNDSWELL OF NEW, SUPER-FLY RESORTS SCATTERED ACROSS THE INDIAN OCEAN IS NOT ONLY UPPING THE LUXURY ANTE IN THE LOWEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD, BUT MANY ARE ALSO DOING ENVIRONMENTAL BACKFLIPS TO KEEP THEIR AQUATIC NEIGHBORS IN THE SWIM. BY ELOISE BASUKI LEIGH GRIFFITHSLEIGH Personal butlers, called curators, are on hand at every InterContinental Maamunagau guest room, including this sun-soaked three- bedroom Overwater

LEIGH GRIFFITHSLEIGH Residence.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 67 Maamunagau is a 55-minute flight from Malé. CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Inspecting the coral at Ladies Island; Beach Pool villas are steps away from the island’s back reef.

North Star InterContinental Maamunagau may have opened up the Maldives’ less-developed Raa Atoll to more visitors, but this sparkling new jewel makes protecting its pristine foundations the prime mission. PHOTOGRAPHED BY LEIGH GRIFFITHS

AS WE SKIM ACROSS the water away from the Maldives reefs so resilient. It’s a hard task to develop InterContinental Maamunagau’s pier in a plush little an island without disrupting its pristine natural speedboat bound for nearby Ladies Island, there’s no environment, but with both short-term and long-term other sign of life in sight. The 81-villa resort, which goals in mind, InterContinental Maamunagau sees opened in September, took over Maamunagau, an sustainability as non-negotiable. uninhabited natural island in the very south of Raa Atoll. Positioned in the north of the Maldives, Raa has seen far less development than the atolls closer to Malé, with just OUR BOAT GLIDES OVER Maamunagau’s vast natural a handful of resorts and locals occupying this narrow lagoon (the largest in the country), but the tranquility chain of unadulterated white sand. Add to that its direct is misleading. Underneath the water, life is thriving. proximity to the protected Baa Atoll, a unesco Biosphere I tumble into the blue in my snorkeling gear, following Reserve, and this is prime real estate. Maria into a busy, colorful world. The reef that fringes The boat’s hum drowns out much of what Maria Ladies Island stretches out like it might never end, but Anderson, the InterContinental’s marine biologist, is falls off to the side in a deep, dark shelf. The current is trying to tell me, but I catch her main drift: the waters are strong today, and I barely have to kick my fins to glide warming and rising, and as the country with the world’s past Pop Art–like coral edifices and interrupt colorful lowest elevation, the Maldives’ future depends on the schools of fish on their common path to nowhere. actions of us all. Before moving here, Maria spent four Maria waves me over and points out a branch of white years researching the effects of climate change on the coral. “This one has unfortunately died,” she tells me. Great Barrier Reef. Surprisingly, she says, much of Raa’s But it’s definitely the outlier; most that I can see are not and Baa’s coral survived the mass bleaching of 2016 that only living and flourishing, but are playing host to a destroyed roughly 70 percent of the reefs in the Maldives. vibrant community of sea life—Nemo and his family of A pretty mysterious feat for such an at-risk region. clownfish duck in and out of a swaying anemone; a school Here at the InterContinental, Maria can use her of sleek black angelfish strut around a table coral; and we Australian research to help find out what makes these even spot the shy Indian Ocean–native oriental Views from the 360-degree Lighthouse Restaurant. CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Aerial yoga; rooms adorned with Maldivian crafts; scoop up your own seafood at Fish Market; Traditional Chinese Medicine practioner, Kenny.

sweetlips, a yellow-and-black striped fish with lips as in this untouched region—and they’ve already identified plump as a Real Housewife’s. 141 different individual mantas in this very lagoon. Back on Maamunagau, Maria shows me her coral Citizen science is one way to achieve this learning. nurseries, still in their infancy, that she has stationed “If one of our guests goes out and has an underwater around the overwater lobby and the resort’s lagoon- camera, they can make a huge difference if they just facing afternoon-tea lounge, The Retreat. During my share that photo with us,” says Emma Hedley, a Manta visit, the resort was still awaiting the proper permits Trust marine biologist stationed at the InterContinental’s from the government to prove the project will eventually Marine Discovery Centre. Like human fingerprints, each help the greater environment. manta has a unique pattern of spots on their belly. “One thing I hope to do here is take resilient corals in So with just one photo, Emma can see who the manta our lagoon that were able to survive the mass bleaching was, who it was with, what size it was, if it has any and high temperatures, then introduce them into areas injuries or if it’s pregnant. “This is how we are really that have had a higher mortality rate,” Maria says. It’s starting to understand them,” she says. “We think they essentially coral rehab: finding patches of decimated reef have these social groups, but then when they leave, they’ll and introducing resilient coral to promote resistance and swim off by themselves. We don’t know how they increase biodiversity. communicate yet… there are still a lot of mysteries.” Maamunagau’s lagoon offers a large, sweeping reef, which acts as a gateway to Baa Atoll for the migrating SUPERMAN-STRENGTH CORALS are not the only enigma mantas as they follow the plankton down to Hanifaru here in Raa. Little is known about the behavior of its Bay, a small cove that just so happens to host the perfect most adorable inhabitants: reef manta rays. The conditions for trapping masses of plankton. While we Maldives has 4,700 known mantas, the largest recorded aren’t able to make it to Hanifaru Bay during our last- population in the world. Partnering with global charity minute stay—unesco requires all visitors be project Manta Trust, InterContinental’s latest outpost is accompanied by a certified divemaster, and buy tokens a chance for the project to really study the local mantas well in advance—we were lucky enough to catch a group

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 69 Good timing at Sunset Bar. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Maamunagau is a 35-minute boat ride from Hanifaru Bay, a manta ray hangout; The Lighthouse restaurant; fond farewells send you home.

of 15 rays feeding in the south of the country a few days soap and other amenities come in reusable bottles, and earlier. They barrel-rolled and danced together as they the toothbrushes made of woodchips and grains can vacuumed up the floating plankton. Their wings were so actually be replanted and will decompose easily. Any close I felt them tickle my cheek. Emma thinks this type plastics used in-house are donated to Parley Maldives, of sighting will be common in Maamunagau’s lagoon an environmental program that intercepts and recycles when the season changes in December. “Around the edge any plastic waste into new materials, like biodegradable of the lagoon it gets quite shallow, so it traps the plankton thread and upcycled shoes. and we get these types of feeding events.” “We have a huge responsibility to set a new gold standard for the brand and celebrate its legacy,” says general manager Stefan Huemer. “This means protecting ENVIRONMENTAL CONSCIOUSNESS here runs deep; it’s an incredible part of the world so that our guests and woven into the very foundations of the resort. The past future generations can enjoy it in the same way—with year has seen every hospitality brand grasping for paper complete peace of mind.” straws in order to rebrand as “sustainable,” but this As I do a final snorkel around the back reef that sits InterContinental goes a few steps further with solar underneath the spa huts, I spot only a few damaged panels, metal- and glass-crushing capabilities, sewage corals from the resort’s recent development. Maria tells plants and organic composting. During my stay, the me that the reef here has recovered quickly, and that tangible eco-choices are endless: among the six dining thanks to proactive protective measures used during outlets is the interactive sea-to-table Fish Market where construction, its impact was minimized from the outset. you can catch your own live, local seafood; the naturally Emma agrees that success can only come from working lit overwater spa hosts a Traditional Chinese Medicine together: “Everything in the ocean is connected. You practitioner with a stock of organic herbal medicine; like can’t have healthy manta populations without a healthy all rooms, our spacious beach villa offers glass bottles reef. Everything is dependent on each other. We have filled with drinking water treated from the resort’s to play our part.” maldives.intercontinental.com; doubles

desalination plant; in our semi-outdoor rainfall shower, from US$1,250. MAAMUNAGAU INTERCONTINENTAL OF COURTESY MANTA: COURTESY OF SAII MALDIVES (4)

70 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM SAii Maldives Lagoon, Curio Collection by Hilton

WE LOVE A PRIVATE-ISLAND sojourn as much as An Overwater Pool villa at SAii. the next guy, but there comes a moment—say, CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW RIGHT: on the fifth day in far-flung isolation—when a Miss Olive Oyl Restaurant; Bill vacation needs more than your own pool suite Bensley's splashes of color; we and in-villa dining. Enter Crossroads, the first all live in a semi-submarine. and only integrated resort in the country and just a quick 15-minute boat hop from Malé. Clutching the fringes of Emboodhoo Lagoon in South Malé Atoll, this game-changing complex offers guests a choice between two private- island resorts, SAii and sister property Hard Rock Hotel Maldives, both directly connected to the central Crossroads lifestyle district by their own footbridges. Though just 100 meters from the action, SAii’s 198 guestrooms, beach villas and overwater villas feel a world away, while in-resort eateries keep you cultured with Mediterranean plates at poolside Miss Olive Oyl and Thai fusion at Mr. Tomyam. When you maybe want to see some new faces, wander down the footbridge and you’re right in the beating heart of the main complex, The Marina. The 30-berth circular quay offers docking space for those lucky enough to BYO yacht, but also plays host to a vibrant 800-meter-long strip of restaurants, fashion boutiques and Lèn Be Well Spa. The Marina is where you can book all diving, snorkeling and boating at the PADI- certified dive center, and also where you’ll find The Marine Discovery Center, where both adults and kids alike can experience the resort’s conservation efforts—the Junior Coral Curator program and clownfish-release initiatives are a future-forward match for budding eco-warriors. Junior Beach Club includes an inflatable waterpark and zero-depth splash-pad play area. But grown-ups also have a lively pocket of beach where they can soak up the sun. Follow the Balearic beats to the Maldives’ first Café del Mar, where the international club’s legendary beach parties and world-famous DJs entertain day and night. And while the Maldives may not be a first choice for business events, Crossroads is doing its best to change this image with its 423-square-meter state-of-the-art event hall. As the first dedicated conference center in the country, business functions, large-scale corporate events and innovative team building breaks can now take place with the incredible ocean backdrop. No big deal. curiocollection3.

MANTA: COURTESY OF INTERCONTINENTAL MAAMUNAGAU INTERCONTINENTAL OF COURTESY MANTA: COURTESY OF SAII MALDIVES (4) hilton.com; doubles from US$400. The Nautilus

SIZE DOESN’T MATTER at the tiniest across three lush overwater of the Maldives’ new openings, The pavilions. Stay for as long as you Nautilus. Just 26 spacious beach and want, choose from more than 36 ocean houses stud this über- treatments, or have a spa specialist exclusive 250-meter-wide patch of curate a unique sequence for your paradise, a privately owned resort specific needs. with a bohemian “time means But the main draw for nothing” vibe. Suites are named underwater-lovers to The Nautilus “houses” and “residences,” and the is its prime real estate in Baa Atoll. F&B concept encourages all-day Just a hop, skip and a jump away “unscripted dining.” What this from the manta-ray and whale- means is the menu is just for shark hub of Hanifaru Bay, ocean inspiration—guests can eat activities abound—snorkel with the whatever they want, whenever they giants, go for midnight swims in want, with no opening hours and glowing phosphorescent waters with no dress codes. the resident marine biologist, dive The free-to-be lifestyle continues vibrant protected coral reefs, or at the 24-hour Solasta Spa, which cruise the waters in the resort’s One-Bedroom reinforces the idea of a boutique, yacht. It’s a constant choose-your- Beach House. transformative stay with self- own-adventure, and that’s just the ABOVE: Late-day designed wellness programs and way we like it. thenautilusmaldives. light.

alternative healing treatments com; doubles from US$1,967. FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF THE NAUTILUS (2); COURTESY OF RAFFLES MALDIVES MERADHOO (2)

Raffles Maldives Meradhoo

HAVE TWICE THE FUN at Raffles’ first terrace and deep ocean-facing tub. Maldivian resort, with two private In typical Raffles style, you get your islands offering the choice of a beach own personal butler, there’s a getaway or an overwater stay in children’s butler for younger guests, southern Gaafu Alifu, one of the plus the very cool addition of a most far-flung atolls in the world. marine butler, who can accompany Over on the sandy shores, 21 you on one of the many snorkeling villas fringe a palm tree–covered tours all over Gaafu (and who can natural island, complete with the hopefully point out one of the house overwater Raffles Spa, a slew of reef ’s 20 resident hawksbill and restaurants and bars, and a world- green turtles). class dive center with an on-site With double the islands comes marine biologist. If you prefer the double the dining options, from The Insta-perfect stilted villa stay, the Firepit’s beach barbecues to Nikkei submerged coral island has 16 fine dining at Yuzu on the overwater expansive villas and residences, island. But for something just that each with glass-bottom decks that little bit more OTT, we’re booking peer into the type of stunning in for one of the bespoke dining turquoise reef we all associate experiences: sunrise breakfast on with this country. a private sandbank; a champagne Whichever type of oceanic luxury sashimi cruise; or dinner by tiki takes your fancy, these villas—some torch-light on the beachside sunken at 300 square meters—are among table. That’s a yes times two from us. the largest in the Maldives, each raffles.com/maldives; doubles from featuring a private pool, wide US$1,800. The Arrival FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF FAIRMONT MALDIVES SIRRU FEN FUSHI (2); COURTESY OF WALDORF ASTORIA ITHAAFUSHI (2) Pavillion. ABOVE: Butlers for everyone. Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi

THOUGH IT MEANS “secret water of staghorn coral) to a patterned Above a Tented island,” don’t expect Sirru Fen Fushi stainless-steel cube. Inside, five- Jungle villa. to remain under wraps. This meter-tall sculptures made from BELOW: Willow Stream Spa. 1.5-kilometer-long spot in the more than 500 non-toxic ceramic northern Shaviyani Atoll offers starfish make an incredible sight almost everything any holiday- from above and below. maker could want, from a Beach and overwater villas are 9-kilometer house reef with a manta present and accounted for, but a cool ray cleaning station to a Maldives- addition to this resort are the five first underwater museum. tented jungle villas hidden in lush While it’s become a resort must inland greenery. The spacious safari to have a coral regeneration nursery villas are perfect for families who on site, Fairmont’s “Coralarium” want more privacy, and all come takes the concept to another level. with pools and outdoor bathrooms. Designed by “underwater With a 200-meter infinity pool naturalist” Jason DeCaires Taylor, bisecting the island, the restorative the aquatic art gallery—the first in outdoor Willow Stream Spa, plus the country—is a permanent ocean four dining options spanning from sanctuary for local sea life. Follow Japanese to traditional Maldivian a marine biologist along the cuisine, there’s no hiding this jewel submerged tree-lined coral pathway for much longer. fairmont-maldives.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF THE NAUTILUS (2); COURTESY OF RAFFLES MALDIVES MERADHOO (2) (made with more than 200 cuttings com; doubles from US$720.

Waldorf Astoria Ithaafushi

THREE CHEERS FOR this new Waldorf offer abundant spaces to indulge. Astoria outpost, which stakes its Try treetop restaurant Terra; claim across a trio of private islands. Middle Eastern mezzes at Yasmeen; Conveniently located in South Malé modern Chinese at Li Long (including Atoll, the Waldorf allows guests to Peking duck made in the Maldives’ select their own perfect seaside first-ever wood-fired oven); healthy, location: beach, overwater or reef. holistic options at Glow; Australian Get some sun on icing-sugar barbecue at The Ledge by Dave Pynt, sands in the beach villas; read or the mastermind behind Michelin- snooze (we’re not judging) in a starred Burnt Ends in Singapore (his swinging hammock over the sea lobster rolls are divine); plus more in the reef villas; and wave at the with wine pairings, live music and graceful guys in the ocean through poolside lounges. the glass floor of the overwater Leave the kids in good hands villas. For larger groups, there’s at the Waldorf Astoria Young 32,000-square-meter Ithaafushi Discovery Park while you explore Private Island, which offers a two-, a the deep blue on a snorkel, dive, sail three- and a four-bedroom villa, or sunset cruise. Or add more Zen to plus its own entertainment a massage by spying sea life below clubhouse, spa, kids club, and chef your glass-floored treatment room. and concierge services. At just 30 minutes from Malé via the When it comes to dining options, resort’s own private yacht, the The lengthy the bar has certainly been raised transit to paradise is all part of the Waldorf Astoria. ABOVE: Reef and (and comes with perfectly chilled journey. waldorfastoriamaldives. Overwater villas.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF FAIRMONT MALDIVES SIRRU FEN FUSHI (2); COURTESY OF WALDORF ASTORIA ITHAAFUSHI (2) champagne): 11 distinct eateries com; doubles from US$1,360.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 73 Varu by Atmosphere

“LIFE IN ABUNDANCE” is the resort’s interpretation of the Dhivehi word varu, and generosity comes in major doses at this pretty retreat opening this month. All guests are automatically put on the Varu Plan, which comes with all-day dining at Lime & Chili; premium spirits, beer and wine everywhere; a 20-percent discount on two dives; unlimited snorkeling; and more. A stay of four or more nights snags you a complimentary sunset fishing trip, premium dining options and a treatment at Elena spa. Mixing modern aesthetics with a “naturally Maldivian” resort experience, Varu’s 108 villas Bathroom views from a Water incorporate local traditions, culture and craft not only villa with pool. into the design, but also into the warm, welcoming hospitality. varu-atmosphere.com; doubles from US$515.

Manta ray Baglioni Resort Maldives heaven.

OPENING ITS FIRST property outside of Europe, Italian legacy brand Baglioni brings its reputation for refined elegance to the island of Maagau, in pristine Dhaalu Atoll. The 96 luxury villas are isolated, surrounded only by velvety white sand and virgin cyan waters. Though, of course, you won’t be flying solo: the local underwater dwellers are sure to pass by during a snorkel, dive or cruise—dolphins often say hello on a boat tour, while turtles, moray eels and schools of fish can be seen at two nearby reefs. You can breathe easy at Baglioni Spa, where the open-air wooden pavilion uses 100-percent vegan and cruelty-free cosmetics by Insium, and offers a dedicated space for yoga and meditation practices. Bellissima! baglionihotels.com; doubles from US$1,300. Emerald

NATURE NOT ONLY surrounds this five-star in the CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF THE STANDARD; COURTESY OF PULLMANMAAMUTAA; MALDIVES COURTESY OF JW MARRIOTT MALDIVES RESORT & SPA northern Raa Atoll, but weaves its way into every fiber of its being. All 120 villas are designed to harmoniously blend into the natural environment, using bamboo, stones and leaves. The 120-hectare resort lagoon is surrounded by more than 1.7 kilometers of flourishing house reef, which guests can mosey around on dives and snorkels. The deluxe all-inclusive plan incorporates all four restaurants, from international buffets to beachside barbecues to Asian fusion to Central and South American cuisine. With traditional Balinese or Thai-style Starry nights. treatments available at The Emerald Spa, this is nature

at its best. emerald-maldives.com; doubles from US$700. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF VARU BY ATMOSPHERE; COURTESY OF MALDIVES; RESORT EMERALDBAGLIONI OF COURTESY

74 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM The Standard, Huruvalhi Maldives

THERE’S NOTHING standard about this newcomer. The cult-favorite American hotel brand made its international debut in London in July, and now The Standard has moved into the Maldives, launching its first property in Asia last month. Located on Huruvalhi, The Standard offers115 private pool villas. But there is much to draw you out: hop from The Standard Spa—with a hammam, aroma steam room, daily yoga, personal training and nine private treatment rooms—to the resort’s six culinary offerings, including a seafood beach shack and Maldivian-cuisine specialist that uses local ingredients grown and plucked directly from the island farm. It’s not a Standard evening without some hip nightlife, so expect bonfire parties, DJs mixing tribal beats, or, if you can’t face the music (or anyone else), a disco ball hangs above the bathtub for your own private party. This is a game-changing preview of what’s ahead for this brand in Asia in the future, with Koh Samui, Phuket Where the cool kids sleep. and Hua Hin properties in the pipeline. standardhotels. com; doubles from US$570. JW Marriott Maldives Pullman Maldives Resort & Spa Maamutaa

IT’S NOT A BIRD, nor a plane, though it is meant to look AS FAR-FLUNG AS IT GETS, the new Pullman Maldives like the former—each of the resort’s 60 villas is designed Maamutaa is the only resort north of Gaafu Alifu. Guests to resemble a heron from above. From your perch in the are treated like they own the place with a generous all- secluded Shaviyani Atoll, flit from the spa to the infinity inclusive plan that allows them to dine in as many of the pool to the five dining outlets that run the gamut of Thai, six outlets as many times as they wish every day. There’s Italian and Japanese. Sundowners are covered—the plenty to keep your heart rate up, with five fitness three full-service bars are as on-trend as you’d find in stations, diving with the chance to see 13 different any big city: the Wine Room holds a staggering 1,620 species of sharks, plus customized wellness therapies. bottles from 320 labels; overwater Wabi Sabi offers Overwater villas? How about under? The below-waves Japanese-inspired signature smoked cocktails; while two-bedroom Aqua villa boasts the most intimate views Rum Baan features Thai-style rum drinks in a unique of the surrounding sea life you can get without taking

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF THE STANDARD; COURTESY OF PULLMANMAAMUTAA; MALDIVES COURTESY OF JW MARRIOTT MALDIVES RESORT & SPA treetop spot. marriott.com; doubles from US$886. your clothes off.accorhotels.com; doubles from US$360.

Bird's-eye view of a Laka bridge crosses bird-like villa. a natural lake. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF VARU BY ATMOSPHERE; COURTESY OF MALDIVES; RESORT EMERALDBAGLIONI OF COURTESY Tibet’s little-known Kham is a river-bound region where everyday life takes on the air of mythology. Crisscrossing the grasslands and mountain ranges, Rachna Sachasinh finds nomadic traditions holding their own against the Plateauedinflow of modernity.PHOTOGRAPHED BY ARIEL ESTULIN A pilgrim performs koras at Dege Parkhang Sutra-Printing House. OPPOSITE: Columns of colorful prayer flags flutter above alpine grasslands in Kham.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 77 If you are wondering where Kham is, you are not alone. The answer depends on who you ask. A Han Chinese will tell you Kham is part of Sichuan Province in western China. In the 1950s, Mao Zedong’s armies invaded Tibet, claiming to take back land that rightfully belonged to China. As a result, Tibet—including the Tibet Autonomous Region, Amdo and Kham—are recognized as Chinese territories. Tibetans, however, think otherwise, and they’ll happily set the record straight. Kham, they’ll say, is the cultural heartland of the Tibetan Plateau. Straddled by Amdo to the east and the Lhasa region to the west, Kham’s lore is rooted in the former Kingdom of Dege, the most powerful and influential of Kham’s five independent chiefdoms. The Middle Kingdom’s sovereignty notwithstanding, the Khampa insist they are Tibetans not Chinese. I first heard of Kham from Jamin York whose company, Himalaya Journey, leads mountaineering and cultural trips in Tibet. At the time, my idea of a Tibetan journey was wrapped up in a movie montage: climbing the steps at Potala Palace, monk-watching in Lhasa’s Jokhang Square, going to Everest Base Camp, and of course completing a kora, or circumambulation, around Mount Kailash. Jamin listened patiently. “In Lhasa, you a historic region in southeastern Tibet, timing is will see a glimmer—no doubt a beautiful one—of Tibet. everything. To survive Kham’s temperamental At EBC, you’ll see other foreigners,” he said gently, but spirit world, you’ve got to be tuned in. Fortunately, “if getting to know Tibet and Tibetans is what you’re Gonkho, an indigenous nomad and my garrulous after, go to Kham.” guide, possesses a supersonic spiritual antenna. Early one morning, he dashes into the monk-run cafeteria at Dzogchen Monastery—the seat of Tibetan Buddhism’s Nyingma sect—and rushes me through breakfast. Beijing had finally approved the staging of a cham masked dance, a sacred ritual honoring the legendary 12th-century warrior-king Gesar, he tells me. To witness it, we had to get on the road. Now! My travel companions and I abandon our green tea and steaming bowls of congee and corkscrew up and down the 4,560-meter-high Tor La pass in a minibus until we arrive somewhere near Manigango, a crossroads in the Kham boonies. Crowds mosey about a muddy field haphazardly set up with hawkers. Shifty hucksters run pick-up games of cards and dice. Gonkho pushes us into a tent, and we’re immediately swallowed in the throng of Tibetans dressed in traditional swag: men wearing voluminous chuba (wool coats with trailing armholes), women with knee-length braids in brocade jackets and stunning turquoise and gold jewels. Plumes of juniper smoke rise from crackling bonfires. Masked dancers in gilded robes move trance-like, thrusting razor-sharp spears into the air. On an elevated stage, lamas in saffron, crested hats beat giant gongs and drums and blow long ceremonial trumpets called dung-chen. Two garish jesters work the crowd, who quietly finger wooden beads and twirl prayer wheels. Youngsters fidget, running in and out of the mayhem with teetering spools of cotton candy and sticks of charred yak jerky. Are we on time, or did we time travel? It’s difficult to tell. Dancers in hand-carved masks pay homage to folk hero King Gesar. OPPOSITE: A new building at Dzongsar Monastery riffs on Chinese and Tibetan styles; Yihun Lhatso lake is fringed by a glacial stream piled with 600-year-old mani stones.

Jamin arrived in Tibet in the early aughts and fell hard for life on the Plateau. Despite his clean-cut, all-American good-naturedness, Jamin turned out to be a rogue explorer and he crisscrossed the Plateau several times—with and without permission. In Kham, he found all he loves about Tibet: rugged mountain ranges, rolling alpine grasslands speckled with black nomad tents, yaks and horses; quaint pastoral villages and centuries-old monasteries bound in Tibetan Buddhism’s peculiar mix of tantric and animistic traditions. So I signed up for Himalaya Journey’s Kham Adventure, and in July, York, Gonkho and a ragtag bunch of Aussies, Canadians, an Alabaman and I toured the region for two weeks. Beginning in Kangding, we traveled north to Tagong, Drango, Ganzi, Dzogchen, Dzongsar and Dege. Technically, we never left China, but practically we wandered into a foregone era.

KHAM’S IMPASSABLE Himalayan peaks and deep valley trenches isolate its communities from each other and the world. But, all that is changing. Known locally as Chushi Gangdruk, or “the land of four rivers and six mountain ranges,” Kham is cleaved by the Yangtze, Mekong, Yalong and Salween rivers whose vigorous waters yield extraordinary hydropower and irrigate much of Asia’s rice and grain fields. Well aware of the region’s strategic assets, China is amping up infrastructure development and Han Chinese are

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 79 Masked dancers move trance- like, thrusting spears into the air. A re we on time or did we time travel? It's difficult to tell Dzogchen Monastery and its majestic neighbors.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 81 Guide Gonkho tosses prayers to the winds. CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Fierce spirits and sacred mantras carved on a mani stone; at the Cham Masked Dance Festival near Manigango; a resolute merit- maker at Dege Sutra printshop.

immigrating in, forcing Kham into the present and setting it on a collision course with the future. After a quick meetup in Chengdu, western China’s urban hub, we drive three hours west over the first peaks of the Hengduan Range and roll into Kangding—known as Dartsedo in Tibetan—the gateway to Kham. Sitting at the confluence of Zheduo and Yala rivers and surrounded by more than a dozen 6,000-meter-plus peaks, Kangding attracts a fair number of aspiring mountaineers. For our non-alpinist bunch, however, this lively trading town is a perfect spot to adjust to the high altitude. Kham’s reputation as the “ethnic corridor” of Tibet becomes evident when we stroll the town’s river promenade and come across locals and newly arrived Han Chinese buying and selling tea and clothing, and conversing in Mandarin and a handful of Kham dialects. At twilight, street lanterns cast a pretty glow, and I come across Tibetan women folk-dancing in a courtyard strung with fairy lights and prayer flags, while old women walk koras around giant prayer wheels nearby. After the Tibetans wind down, they’re replaced by a gaggle of young Chinese women doing Zumba. A millennium ago, Kangding was a crossroads on the ancient Tea Horse Road, the patchwork of caravan routes extending from western China to Lhasa. Hauling tea on their backs, Chinese laborers scaled dizzying mountain passes to trade for salt and horses in Lhasa. Roads back then were treacherous, and villagers rarely ventured out, eking out fragile livelihoods in remote valleys. As recent practically every monastery and nunnery on the Plateau, as 2000, Jamin tells us, Kham’s roads were serpentine forcing many monastics to return to their home villages trails of rock and dust. Today, paved highways bank river or escape to India. When Deng Xiaoping came to power, valleys and kilometers-long tunnels bore through he allowed the religious centers to reopen, and monks volcanic mountains, cutting travel times, road rage and and exiles gradually returned. These days, Beijing nausea. “Whatever you may think of the Chinese, their maintains tight controls on lamasaries, going as far as road engineering is a modern miracle,” Jamin says. installing surveillance cameras and planting bugs. For good reason: Kham is known as a hotbed of dissent, ONE HUNDRED KILOMETERS west of Kangding, much of it fomenting inside sacred walls. Tagong—Lhagang in Tibetan—looks like the set of an Our journey coincides with the birthday of His old Western primed for a high-noon shootout. Nomads Holiness the Fourteenth Dalai Lama, and across Tibet, with flowing black braids and wide-brimmed cowboy where the government considers His Holiness a persona hats ride into town on sputtering motorbikes and stock non grata, the state police are on high alert. Checkpoints up on camping and wilderness gear. Outside a hardware pop up on the road to Drongo and Ganzi. The monastic shop, a few men with gnarled expressions stare communities here boast centuries-old allegiance to the contemplatively, prayer beads in hand. Dalai Lama. Up until now, the monks we encounter are Anchored by the 7th-century Lhagang Monastery and lighthearted and congenial. Leading up to the day of His the towering 5,800-meter spires of Zhare Lhatse, Tagong Holiness’s birthday, however, senior abbots are is the starting point for pilgrims heading to Lhasa. We alternatively recalcitrant and forthcoming. One spin prayer wheels at the monastery wall, then continue particularly defiant monk refuses to be browbeaten by northwest towards Rangakha—it means five goat authorities. In the prayer hall, he has put up photographs heads—a pastoral region dotted with classic stone of the Dalai Lama and the 11th Panchen Lama, who farmhouses. New electric towers march across hillsides hasn’t been seen since 1995 when he was put in so-called strung with prayer flags and 600-year-old mani stones “protective custody” by the Chinese at age six, and a etched with Tibetan Buddhism ubiquitous mantra: Om recording of the Dalai Lama giving a talk plays softly as mani padme hum. Nearby, just-painted billboards we speak—all of which is, of course, verboten. “I will broadcast state propaganda: Pay Attention. Don’t gossip. suffer the consequences,” the monk says fiercely through In a tiny roadside hamlet, 63-year-old Shamba Yargye tears, “but I will not back down.” has no qualms questioning the current state of affairs. “Twenty or thirty years ago, we had four seasons. Now it’s either too wet, too dry or too hot,” he says. “The road has changed our lives. Young people want bigger houses and more things. New ways, new people.” Shamba Yargye is not familiar with the terms global warming or consumerism, but clearly understands the ramifications of modernity. “New ways” are evident further up the road at King of Yak, a start-up micro-brewery on the outskirts of Rangakha. On tap: a hoppy ale with a sweet grass-and- honey finish. I am more excited about it than I think I should be. The atmospheric slice of hipster sensibility is an unexpected respite from days of imbibing green tea and Nescafé. On Midcentury furniture surrounded by vintage odds and bits, we tuck into bowls of thukpa— Tibetan vegetable soup with thick wheat noodles— followed by a pint or two. A middle-age monk marches in, book in hand, and orders a cappuccino. Kham, I begin to realize, is a place of incongruities where disparate times, people and ideas run into each other seamlessly.

JAMIN AND GONKHO are deft storytellers, entertaining us with tales of misadventures and close calls as we travel north into the former Kingdom of Dege, which in its heyday was Kham’s most powerful and culturally influential. Some stories are more serious. Monasteries number close to 800 and monks in the tens of thousands—a staggering percentage of the roughly 2.5 million Tibetans who live here, Gonkho tells us. During the Cultural Revolution, the Communist Party razed

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 83 In northern Ganzi prefecture, the ratio of people to wooden blocks are used to print long, rectangular, yaks flips, and grasslands and pockets of nomad tents fill monastic scripture books. the landscape. Herds of doe-eyed yaks cloaked in rangy Inside small chambers lining an interior courtyard, black wool graze brilliant, wildflower-studded, jade- groups of old men hand-cut reams of parchment paper hued meadows that unfurl across the valley floor and made from local wildflowers that repel insects. Upstairs climb up steep, jagged, glacier-capped peaks. in the printing hall, men work in pairs to produce the Occasionally, thunderheads roll in and out, tamping the day’s quota, applying ink to paper with yak-hair brushes tranquility. The Khampa, I realize, have inherited all the and flat, wooden paddles. Another man ferries the qualities of the Himalayas: timeless, tempestuous and wooden blocks back and forth to the stacks, occasionally undeniably stunning. stopping to pour tea for his co-workers. The entire In Tibet, “nomadic life goes back nearly 4,000 years,” process is swift, efficient and as old as time. Gonkho says. He would know; before teaming up with Meandering corridors stocked with more than Jamin, Gonkho was chasing his family’s herd up and 250,000 wooden blocks, I come across Phuntsok Tsering, down Amdo’s vast grasslands. Nowadays, the a 64-year-old bespectacled master carver chiseling away government requires all children past the age of six to at a freshly oiled birch block. He was one of the first to attend school, forcing many families to split time come to work here when it reopened after the three- between the village and the grasslands. Luckily for us, decade-long shutdown during the Cultural Revolution. it’s the start of school holidays, and we get to see nomads “I am proud to be here and to have this chance to on the move to set up camp for the summer. accumulate merit,” he tells me. Nomads are genial by nature, and a pair of brothers Making merit, folk-dancing, singing and picnicking: pitched up near holy Yilhun Lha Tso Lake, just north of these age-old pastimes are still at the heart of Kham Manigango, invites us inside their tent for a chat and a culture, explains Dawa Drolma, a filmmaker who gave cup of salty yak-butter tea—a sour/tart, greasy, soup- up her job at the Smithsonian Institute to return to like brew that my companions drink heartily and I Dzongsar Valley, her hometown. Comprising 21 villages discreetly push aside. Outside, a cool wind rustles prayer with a collective population of 6,300, Dzongsar Valley is flags and pushes dark clouds across the clear blue sky; home to more than 2,000 artisans practicing 15 genres of inside, an iron stove fueled with yak dung keeps us crafts. “I came back to help my community, but I need warm and cozy. The family matriarch tends to cauldrons my community as much as it needs me,” she laughs. A of yak milk simmering on the stove, and a solar-powered new road and an airport are planned in the area. “The yogurt-maker separates yak curds and whey. economy will be good and our way of life will change. Is “It’s my responsibility to keep this way of life alive,” it a good thing or a bad thing? I can’t really say.” the older brother explains. Noticing me eyeing a steel Effervescent and enterprising, Dawa Drolma works safe among piles of bedding and dried yak dung, he says, alongside her father and brother running Khyenle, an “That is for the caterpillar fungus.” Found only on the artisan studio that’s been in the family for generations, Plateau, this peculiar worm-like fungus that shoots and a bed-and-breakfast where guests are encouraged to straight up from the ground is prized in traditional experience local life. Hands-on workshops alongside Chinese medicine to stimulate virility and as a cure-all young apprentices include bronze sand-casting, lacquer for everything from tuberculosis to hepatitis. Caterpillar and clay sculpture, carpentry and wood-painting. fungus, it turns out, paid for the family’s motorbikes Farmwives will teach you Tibetan culinary know-how: parked outside the tent. yak yogurt, tsampa (barley-flour and yak-butter dough), thukpa (wheat-noodle soup), momos (dumplings stuffed THWACK, SWISH, RUSTLE… the soundtrack of the with yak meat and fermented vegetables). Wellness Dege Parkhang Sutra-Printing House is hypnotic and enthusiasts, meanwhile, can head into town and explore meditative. Built in 1729, the unesco-recognized Dzongsar Tibetan Hospital, where Dawa Drolma’s printing house is the largest, and one of only three maternal family runs an apothecary stocked with remaining centers where traditional hand-carved traditional Tibetan herbal medicine.

Making merit, folk-dancing, singing and picnicking: pastimes still at

84 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM the heart of Kham culture Ngor Tso lake, framed by Ngodong Ri's jagged peaks, is a favorite nomad summer camp.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / OCTOBER 2019 95 An adolescent yak on the summer pastures. ABOVE: Carved walls and electric skies at 300-year-old Gongen Monastery, in Derge. You can take a formal class or simply jump into the monks carry on with unwavering compassion and daily routine, like I do. One evening, I follow Tse Wang resilience, an inspiration to Kham and her people. From Tso, Khyenle’s chef, to the greenhouse and pick armfuls the terrace, I look out over Dzongsar Valley. Sunlight of veggies. In rainy season, Tse Wang Tso tells me, we grazes the tips of barley fields and sets rust-tiled rooftops would have gone to the mountains to pick wild ablaze. In the distance, I watch a group of young monks mushrooms; for now, we make do with dried ones from play a heated game of basketball, a blur of crimson robes last season. Back in the kitchen, I help her knead a fluffy trailing from one end of the court to the other. batch of dro, a wheat dough. We chop the vegetables and Early one morning, Jamin and Gonkho take us for a the raw dro in big chunks and toss them into a hike up the valley, where Kham runs into the Tibet simmering pot of thukpa, the main course for our Autonomous Zone. On the banks of a fast-moving evening meal. Nearby, Dawa Drolma tutors a neighbor’s tributary of the Yangtze River, we come across a road son. Artisans stroll in to fetch cups of tea. A young novice crew clearing tracks, a prelude of what’s to come. We monk regales us with anecdotes of his strict teacher and climb higher, following yak trails into the forested the finer points of Sakya Sect—a popular branch of hillsides. Around midday, we walk into a pristine alpine Tibetan Buddhism—philosophy. For the first time on meadow. Waiting for us is Dawa Drolma’s brother, who this journey, I feel fully immersed in the rhythm of life raced here on his motorbike to bring us piping-hot balep on the Plateau, an actor in the diorama. korkun, a traditional flatbread stuffed with yak meat and In Dzongsar, Gonkho’s spiritual antennae springs into curried potatoes. Nearby, a group of gregarious Kham action again. He leads us to the 7th-century Dzongsar men dressed in traditional finery enjoy their own meal Monastery just in time to hear the monks chant together. while taking reels of photos with meter-long selfie sticks Juniper and incense fill the gompa, or prayer hall, built and cameras with giant lenses. In one generation, China originally as a temple of Bon, an animistic faith that has managed to push Kham from the middle ages to the predates Buddhism in these parts. Dzongsar has suffered middle class, but the Khampa will never give up picnics many upheavals. It’s been torn down and rebuilt. Yet, the and grasslands.

Jyekundo TIBET Lhasa CHINA Dzogchen

Derge Dzongsar INDIA Kham Lhagang BAY OF BENGAL

Kangding

Lugu Lake

STAY, EAT+DRINK and spirit, and stunning views. The lesser-seen side of Tibet Khyenle Guesthouse & Art Offers excellent homecooked As Jamin told me, while other parts of the region may offer the movie- Center In picturesque and artsy meals (Tibetan and global) and reel vision of Tibet, it's Kham that takes a visitor straight to its heart. Dzongsar Valley, the traditional the valley’s only steam sauna, Tibetan-style stone farmhouse a perfect way to end a long day GETTING THERE TOUR pairs rustic pastoral life with of trekking. definitelynomadic. Fly into Chengdu International Himalaya Journey The go-to good food and cozy creature com; doubles from RMB650. Airport, a major hub with direct fixers for the likes of BBC and comforts. A new wing with King of Yaks Tibetan Khampa flights to and from all major Discovery Channel, this socially spacious suites is set to open Norbu and Czech Maxim Nesazal Southeast Asian cities. Travel responsible outfit offers guided in early 2020. khyenle.com; run the world's highest craft to Kham requires no official expeditions fit for both hardcore doubles from RMB200. brewery, 3,550 meters up in a permits besides the standard alpinists and cultural Khampa Nomad Eco Lodge & former stone paddock, and use tourist visa to China. Check your enthusiasts. himalayajourney. Arts Center The off-grid, local barley and mountain water. embassy’s website for details. com; Kham Adventure US$2,999 four-room teak eco lodge sits It's not on Google Maps, so look Although licensed guides are per person, includes lodging at in the Drokpa grasslands on the for a colorful sign pinned to a not required, it is highly three- to five-star hotels, all outskirts of Tagong. Artistic, tree trunk. Xinduqiao Township, recommended that travelers meals and overland minimalist rooms are endowed north of Tagong/Lhagong on hire a driver and guide. transportation, excludes airfare. with authentic Kham generosity Highway G318. — R.S.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 87 WORLD OF WONDERS Fiji and Tonga offer up different versions of the idyll that is the South Pacific. In this age of growing environmental conciousness, immersive images of such remote beauty help train an eye on how much of the natural world—above and below the waves—we stand to lose. PHOTOGRAPHY BY APRIL WONG

Wild horses run free near the Laku Fa’anga Cliffs at the southern point of ‘Eua in Tonga. Humpback whales travel thousands of kilometers from their summer feeding grounds in Antarctica to spend winter mating and calving in Tonga. The whales can grow up to 16 meters long and weigh up to 30,000 kilograms. Even when there’s not a whale in sight, you can hear their haunting song reverberate underwater.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 89 A 90-minute flight from Nadi to Taveuni, Fiji’s signature scuba destination, also happens to be one of the most scenic flights in the South Pacific. Expect lush islands and isolated reefs to the horizon. Along a secluded peninsula on Vanua Levu, Fiji’s second largest island, The Remote Resort is perfectly placed for those looking for access to the soft coral capital of the South Pacific, Rainbow Reef.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 91 A Fijian sunset at Tokoriki Island Resort, popular with honeymooners. Just off shore of Vanua Levu, Fiji, squadrons of manta rays gather to feed on plankton as the tides shift. Resorts here offer excursions to swim with these beautiful, balletic giants.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 93 Malamala Island, one of 20 specks of land dotting a volcanic archipelago west of Nadi, Fiji. The quintessential vision of a perfect isle, it's ringed by pristine beaches that meld with warm, turquoise waters.

A reef shark patrols Rainbow Reef, which is also home to barracuda, octopi, giant clams and manta rays. The real stars of Rainbow Reef are the vibrant soft corals that encrust pinnacles, walls, underwater canyons and swim- throughs, nurturing the most biodiverse reef ecosystem in these seas.

‘Eua, a small island in the Kingdom of Tonga, offers bare-bones lodging and magical views.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 95 AWAY IN THE ALGARVE Along the coast in the Algarve’s Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina Natural Park.

With its spectacular coastline and breezy, laid-back way of life, this southern part of Portugal has never had a hard time attracting visitors. Now, as government efforts to combat overtourism begin to bear fruit, a new spirit of cultural and ecological preservation is blowing through. ROSECRANS BALDWIN roams a region on its way up in the world.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY SIVAN ASKAYO

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 97 THE ALGARVE, the province at the very bottom of Portugal, is restaurant, a Portuguese guy in work pants scruffy with abundance. Gardens spill over with three-day stubble, and suddenly he’ll their crumbling walls. Fish markets are mosh come at you with a two-tined fork bearing pits. Orange and fig trees grow next to the a hunk of something fishy, a hot little bite street, dropping fruit on the sidewalk in dripping with olive oil—some oceanic riotous spatters. It’s a region where many specimen the name of which can’t be exactly people still live off the land and the sea, where translated into English—and he’ll insist, You in every other yard there’s a chaotic pile of try this. So you do. And you burn your mouth. outboard motors and around every other But the deliciousness is so complete, so richly corner a tractor going dangerously slow—or simple, you wouldn’t want it any other way. a teenager on a motorbike who tries to run you None of this is what I expected. I’d thought off the road. The point is, a lot of the Algarve the Algarve was overcooked. Though the region feels untamed. had withstood invasion by the Phoenicians, the One night in the dark, dusty middle of Visigoths and the Moors, it was, in the 1970s nowhere you’ll be talking to a man in a small and 80s, conquered by budget tourism from the U.K., Germany and beyond, which has come to define the Algarve’s modern-day reputation— in Europe, at least. (“When I think of the Algarve,” a friend from London said, “I think of package tours.”) But then I started hearing a different story. Friends in New York and California told me that the Algarve needed to be seen. Parts of its coastline had been rehabilitated, they said; high-rise hotels had been torn down. And though travel to Portugal is booming—24 million people visited in 2017—I kept hearing FROM RIGHT: that the Algarve was full of overlooked places: A guest room at Casa Mãe Lagos; destinations more suited to discerning polvo à lagareiro, travelers, surf spots and farm stays, with or octopus with boutique lodgings to enjoy and small shops to olive oil, sweet discover. The suggestion was that Portugal was potatoes, onions, finding a way to reverse the effects of and cilantro, at Vila Monte Farm overtourism. House. OPPOSITE: So in September I flew to Lisbon from The Praça Luís de Los Angeles. At that time of year, the air and sea Camões, a central would still be warm, I was told, but the crowds square in Lagos, in the western thinner. My plan was to avoid the Algarve’s Algarve. busy southern coast, and instead explore its wild western fringe—full of protected wilderness, dramatic cliffs and roaring surf— then drive east to experience an updated take on agritourism in a landscape of old villages, fishing towns and working farms.

MY FLIGHT LANDED just in time for breakfast. I stopped in the airport for an espresso and a pastéis de nata, one of Portugal’s treasured custard tarts, then picked up my rental car and drove south—a straight shot that took about four podcast episodes and one filling-station coffee (or approximately2 ½ hours) before reaching Lagos, which served as the Algarve’s provincial capital from the 16th to the 18th century. The old town of Lagos is hilly and labyrinthine, a jumble of whitewashed houses, colorful tiles and terra-cotta roofs. On a Sunday morning, the place was empty. Street signs were not abundant. I parked my car and set off on foot to find my hotel—and promptly got lost. I could suddenly feel the effects of my long journey. Then a whiff of garlic turned my head. Through an open window, I could hear a Portuguese duet on someone’s stereo. I put down my bag and stood still. The song ended, and, equilibrium restored, I soon arrived at my hotel. “Did you have any trouble finding us?” the woman at reception asked with a smile. Before I could lie and say no, she was offering me a glass of white wine. Located on the old city’s quiet northern side, Casa Mãe is a stylish boutique property in an abandoned estate—a splash of contemporary

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 99 I HEADED NORTH TO PRAIA DO AMADO. THE PROTECTED LAND HERE IS EDGED WITH MOSSY HEADLANDS, WAVE-BEATEN CLIFFS AND GLORIOUS BEACHES

92 OCTOBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM Praia Dona Ana, a popular beach outside Lagos. OPPOSITE: Traditional architecture in the Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina Natural Park.

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 101 craftsmanship in antique surroundings. It’s also resolutely Portuguese. The rugs, the pottery, even the notepad in my room were made by local producers; the shampoo in my shower was stored in an artisanal clay pot. “We are Portuguese, so we have this historical link with exploring the ocean, with the fishermen, the surf,” I read in the in-house magazine (of course the hotel had its own magazine). “It’s part of our identity, this Atlantic mood.” After FROM TOP: A vendor at Olhão’s a long walk and a light dinner, followed by an fish market; the early night, I got up the next morning, did a few courtyard at Vila laps in the deep blue pool, then set off to find the Monte Farm Atlantic mood for myself. House, a rustic retreat near Olhão. OPPOSITE: Diners FIRST I DROVE through the sleepy villages of at Chá Chá Chá, Salema and Sagres, where residents drank an informal coffee at sidewalk cafés. Then I headed north restaurant in toward a beach that a friend in L.A. had Olhão. recommended, Praia do Amado—part of the Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina Natural Park. This 100-kilometer strip of protected land runs the western length of the Algarve and is edged with mossy headlands, wave-beaten cliffs and glorious beaches. The reserve has been the beneficiary of a major push on the part of the government to beautify the coastline, and it shows. As I drove north, the two-lane road became a path weaving through pine forest. After about half an hour, I reached a long sand beach. Families were out sunning, picnicking, doing nothing at all. I parked next to a blond German in sunglasses airing out his wet suit. “Not too crowded?” I asked. “Not here,” he said. “There’s waves for everyone.” Twenty minutes and €5 later, thanks to a friendly operation above the beach called Amado Surf Camp, I was in the ocean with a rented surfboard, talking to a friendly French guy. We agreed this was a very good way to spend the morning. Later, I asked a young woman in a shop where locals went for lunch. She sent me 200 meters down the street to Restaurante do Cabrita, a small joint with a terrace, shaded by wooden beams, that was packed with customers. Most of them were eating fish or prawns. For about€ 14, I had half a dozen sardines—a regional specialty, grilled and flaky, more like tiny silver trout than the ones that come from a tin—plus a salad, boiled potatoes, and the coldest beer of my life. One of the waitresses, with a tone of concern, asked me, “As sardinhas…you like?” I assured her that I liked them very much. After lunch, I drove aimlessly, my GPS switched off. Through my open window came a whiff of the sea, the resinous scent of pine trees, and the occasional puff of barbecue smoke. fishing here for centuries,” Gonçalves said. Most of the sea bass, sea bream, octopus and cuttlefish they catch is sold in markets on the mainland, he added, pointing out two buildings in the town of Olhão. We headed out to Culatra Island—three kilometers long and less than 800 meters wide. The island’s three villages support about a thousand people over the winter, but swell in the summer with vacationing Portuguese. “There are no cars, just lots of golf carts,” Kellen said. “Even the ambulance is a golf cart.” We docked at the village of Culatra, the biggest on the island. Fishermen were walking into town or repairing nets; they’d finished their catch hours earlier. Gonçalves sent a few text messages from his phone, then looked up and smiled. “You like oysters, right?” A fisherman had put around two dozen samples from that morning’s haul on ice for us. Gonçalves shucked expertly while Kellen opened a bottle of rosé. The oysters were fresh, thickly briny. They tasted simultaneously of the sea and of the air; it was as if they tasted of the moment itself.

“THE PORTUGUESE WAY, when it’s well maintained, is maintained to be active, not to be photographed,” said Lionel Alvarez, the manager of my next hotel, Vila Monte Farm At one point I pulled off onto a dirt road. A Land House. “It’s messy. You start to appreciate the Rover was parked where a hiking trail cut west. beauty of being natural.” I followed the path for 15 minutes, past banks of Vila Monte certainly abides by this principle. wildflowers and a crumbling old cottage—or Perched on a hill in the country outside Faro, was it a chapel?—until I walked out onto a near working farms, the place exudes high-end rocky bluff above the vast Atlantic with a never- rusticity. The lobby contains a miniature ending view. It was basically the rim of the farmers’ market; my two-room suite was set in continent. If people once stood there, I thought, a manicured orange grove. Hidden in the and figured this for the edge of the world, I could extensive grounds were an outdoor cinema, understand why. two swimming pools, and two restaurants serving local ingredients prepared well. “IF YOU WANT to really appreciate the Overall, the impression was contemporary— Algarve, you need to go out on the water,” Paulo from the elegant, minimalist décor to the Gonçalves said the next day, as we puttered restaurants’ aromatic kitchen garden—and away from land in his boat. While the western timeless, rooted in the idea of what it means to Algarve is all rugged bluffs and ocean winds, be Portuguese. “The main activity here is the southeastern shore is known for its nothing,” Alvarez said. “There’s no ‘do,’ no protected lagoons and strips of perfect beach. ‘don’t do.’ It’s easy. It’s not complicated.” Gonçalves leads boat tours through his I spent the rest of my stay embracing company, Algarve Wow. We met him and his Alvarez’s mantra. At least, I tried to do nothing. staffer Sara Kellen at a dock in Faro, the eastern I did wander the historic center of tiny Cacela Algarve’s biggest city, and cruised out at high Velha. I climbed the ramparts of a medieval tide between fishing boats. The plan was to castle in Tavira. In a fishing town, Santa Luzia, explore the Ria Formosa Lagoon. Classified as a I walked down the quay and noticed people marine park in 1978 and, more recently, cleared boarding a ferry. For €1, a young woman said, of unlicensed developments, the Ria Formosa I could ride out to the beach and back. lies between the Algarve’s southeastern coast A few minutes later, I was crossing a wooden and the ocean, from which it is protected by a walkway with a dozen people, and after a few string of barrier islands. “People have been minutes more, I was swimming in pristine,

TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 103 Sudoeste How to Alentejano e SPAIN Costa Vicentina Natural Park Portugal explore the Algarve Spend five nights touring the coastal and rural reaches of Portugal’s sunny, relaxed The Algarve southernmost province.

GETTING THERE Lagos Turkish Airlines Olhão (turkishairlines.com) flies from Faro various cities in Asia to Lisbon Culatra Island ATLANTIC OCEAN via Istanbul. From there, you can rent a car and drive three hours south to the Algarve. opalescent waters bordered by an empty decade. “Other people had looked at it, but WHERE TO STAY beach. A young couple in city clothes no one was quite as crazy as we were,” In the atmospheric old quarter of Lagos, the Algarve’s former drank wine at a small bar that rented out Hallie said. Southern Portugal was having capital, Casa Mãe Lagos beach chairs and umbrellas. I asked if a renaissance of sorts, Tim added. And the (casa-mae.com; doubles from they’d come out for a day at the beach. “No, locals of the eastern Algarve were still €175, two-night minimum) has just a cocktail.” I rode the ferry back with coming to terms with it. “They can’t really chic rooms, suites and cabanas overlooking a kitchen garden. A them and stopped at a small restaurant believe people are coming here en masse.” half-hour drive inland from Faro, across the road. On the waitress’s Tim and I must have pretty different the elegant Vila Monte suggestion, I ordered a platter of camarões ideas of “en masse.” I saw few other Farm House (vilamonte.com; (giant prawns) grilled with garlic, plus a travelers on my entire trip. Then again, doubles from €280) has a glass of vinho verde. I asked where the that was the idea. On my last morning in peaceful country setting and offers numerous excursions— shellfish had come from. The waitress the area, I drove into Olhão. The fish including trips on the hotel boat looked more than a little confused. “Over market was buzzing; at bars around or to the nearby Barra Nova there,” she said, pointing past the boats. the perimeter, old men sat drinking small beach. Farther east, Fazenda “The ocean.” glasses of red wine. I found my way to Chá Nova Country House (fazendanova.eu; suites from Chá Chá, a restaurant housed in a former €240) has 15 rooms set amid IF THE EASTERN Algarve’s coastline is bordello a short walk from the market. scenic olive groves, including mostly fishing, the interior is mainly The menu changes depending on the five recently redesigned suites, agriculture: small, quiet villages and catch. For lunch I started with a salad some of which have private dusty roads. My last hotel, Fazenda Nova of figs and salty cheese with pickled gardens. Country House, near Tavira, is both a cherries. Next came a steaming bowl of WHERE TO EAT working farm and a stylish getaway. mussels and white beans served in a light Tucked away on a side street Dating back to the early 1800s, it is tomato sauce. It was opulently simple, and near the fish market in the surrounded by 10 hectares of olive groves, exceptionally good. eastern port of Olhão, Chá Chá plus an orchard and gardens. Every guest The owner of Chá Chá Chá, Kevin Chá (chachacha.pt; mains €10– €18) is a charming spot for lunch receives a bottle of house-made olive oil as Gould, is a former food and travel writer or dinner. It serves traditional a gift. But it wasn’t all pastoral. There was from the United Kingdom. I asked him, of Algarvian dishes with a an infinity pool, and the meals served in all places to settle, why he’d chosen Olhão. contemporary twist, using the outdoor dining room were wonderful. He mentioned the climate, the markets seasonal ingredients. On the second floor, above the bar, was a and the culture. But the main reason, he “vinyl library,” stocked with several said, was more intangible. “In this place TOUR OPERATOR The team at Made for Spain comfortable seats, a pair of turntables, you may be rich or poor, black, gray or & Portugal can curate wireless headphones, and 3,000-plus white, gay or straight,” Gould said. “To be custom Algarve itineraries with albums for guests to enjoy. accepted, the only thing you have to be is exclusive experiences like a visit Fazenda Nova’s owners are a pair of authentic.” I couldn’t argue with that. I’d to a cork factory or an oyster- tasting trip with local Londoners named Hallie and Tim gone to the Algarve in search of something fishermen. madeforspainand Robinson. Before they renovated the real, something unvarnished. By the end, portugal.com; six-day trips from property, the farm had been inactive for a it was everywhere I looked. €4,600. — R.B.

104 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM LET’S CONNECT

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One of the great pleasures of returning to Bhutan is forming lasting friendships with the people who live there, like photographer Kencho Wangdi, who I met a couple of years ago. Since our paths crossed, he has accompanied and assisted me on photography workshops around the country. Using my iPhone, I captured Kencho silhouetted by sunrise and framed by prayer flags at Thimpu’s Kuensel Phodrang Nature Park when we were shooting together one early morning. — SCOTT A. WOODWARD

106 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM

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ITALY MGallery TIMELESS ELEGANCE AND A STYLISH SPIRIT HELP TO EVOKE THE BEST OF EACH OF THE VARIED DESTINATIONS. MGALLERY HOTELS CONTACT DETAILS

Kyoto Yura Hotel V Villas Hua Hin Avista Hideaway Phuket (+81)75/366-5800 (+66)32/616-039 Patong kyotoyurahotel-mgallery.com vvillashuahin.com (+66)76/681-681 avista-hideaway-phuket- 3 Nagas Luang Prabang Veranda Resort & Villas patong.com (+856)71/253-888 Hua Hin Cha Am 3-nagas.com (+66)32/709-000 Hotel de l’Opera Hanoi verandaresort.com/ (+84)24/6282-5555 The Lake Garden verandahuahin hoteldelopera.com Nay Pyi Taw (+95)1/230-5858 Hotel Baraquda Pattaya Hotel des Arts Saigon accorhotels.com/9096 (+66)38/769-999 (+84)28/3989-8888 hotelbaraquda.com hoteldesartssaigon.com Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan Veranda Resort Pattaya Na Hotel Royal Hoi An (+66)2/630-4000 Jomtien (+84)235/395-0777 hotelmusebangkok.com (+66)38/111-899 hotelroyalhoian.vn verandaresort.com/ VIE Hotel Bangkok verandapattaya La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc (+66)2/309-3939 (+84)297/398-2988 viehotelbangkok.com Avista Grande Phuket Karon laverandaresorts.com (+66)76/302-660 Veranda High Resort avista-grande-phuket-karon. Hotel de la Coupole Chiang Mai com (+84)214/362-9999 (+66)53/365-007 hoteldelacoupole.com verandaresort.com/ verandachiangmai Legacy Yen Tu (+84)203/625-9888 legacyyentu.com MGallery is a collection of more than 100 storied boutique hotels around the world. As havens for those who relish memorable experiences, bespoke design and off-the-beaten-track moments, each address is remarkable for its singular personality and story.

MGallery hotels combine singularity, elegance and consideration, enticing guests’ hearts and minds with a distinctive style and décor. These properties are both inspiring and individually styled—places where travellers can delight in and fully discover the very best the world has to offer.

The properties may be classic and of a certain period, or boldly modern and innovative, but the individual layout and styling always creates a uniquely personal setting that reflects the hotel’s individual story. The tastes, smells, moments of pleasure, and prevailing ambiance are all conceived and orchestrated to ensure the guest enjoys an original and memorable moment.

Yohan AMIOT VP Brand Management MGallery Hotel Collection DESIGN

One Of A Kind Around Asia, the MGallery Hotel Collection offers inspiring design comforts in settings that are true to each destination.

Panorama of Avista Grande Phuket Karon.

AVISTA GR ANDE elite attest to their wealth the Avista Grande Phuket PHUKET KARON and taste. Karon has turned for design Phuket was upwardly While it can be difficult inspiration. Like all of mobile long before it to look past Phuket’s Phuket’s best resorts, the achieved global fame for its winning formula of sun, sea property is not short on dazzling beaches and array and sand, its heritage is modern trimmings. Clean of luxury resorts. A hub for among the most appealing lines are effortlessly trade for centuries as well in Thailand. Phuket Town is contemporary. So too are as a center for the tin replete with beautifully the hotel’s range of hip mining in industry in Asia, preserved shop houses and design features. the island has never been grandiose Sino-colonial Much care though has short on material riches. mansions, once occupied been invested in paying Indeed, the stunning by the island’s tin barons. heed to the past. Old and 19th-century mansions And, it is to this new Phuket fuse built by the mine-owning architectural legacy that seamlessly at the property, DESIGN

which enjoys a prime laidback sense that radiates sculpture. The sand- location nestled between throughout the resort. coloured bricks of the Karon Beach and lush It’s said that the sun at courtyard walls, jungle-clad mountains. Avista Hideaway never meanwhile, bring to mind Memories of the heady sets, and the entrance Thailand’s ancient days of the island’s courtyard’s prime architectural heritage—the tin-mining boom are feature—its glittering, best examples of which can plentiful. Striking and often contemporary Thai-style be found in the Kingdom’s whimsical artistic sun sculpture—is visual former capitals of references to the industry proof of that. The sculpture Sukhothai and Ayutthaya. are found throughout the changes colour throughout There’s no lack of property. The flourishes of the day and at night. It’s contemporary flair either. A the island’s mansions, dramatically lit, rooftop bar and state of the meanwhile, are referenced symbolizing the sun’s art fitness centre are both in everything from the constant presence and the key features, while three textile patterns to the energy it gives to the shimmering swimming contrast between property. pools offer plenty of light-coloured woods, A decorative pool opportunities to soak up all fabrics and materials, and surrounds the sun those glorious rays. bold metals and bright gold highlights. This reinterpretation of Avista Hideaway the past, which is Phuket Patong. reverential without ever descending into pastiche, imbues the resort with an upscale aesthetic that is at once timeless and fresh.

AVISTA HIDEAWAY PHUKET PATONG While perched in the heart of Phuket’s most popular shore, this romantic resort draws its inspiration from the sense of calm at its cliffside location. The property has been designed to evoke the atmosphere of a traditional Thai village through its arts and the vibe that you are part of a Thai village. The inner sanctuary, the spiritual heart of the property, projects that

MGALLERY 2019 5 DESIGN

HOTEL MUSE BANGKOK LANGSUAN At first glimpse, Bangkok can appear overwhelmingly Asian. From gold-spired temples to crowded but charismatic shop house- backed streets lined with food vendors, Thailand’s capital is, in several respects, the steamy tropical metropolis of popular imagination. That said, a number of important foreign ingredients have managed to sneak their way into the city’s Embracing the seductive stew. best designs. Significant among these is the lasting impact of European design and trips occurred after 1897 effect at Hotel Muse architectural trends over when he visited Europe Bangkok. The property the last century. several times. evokes many of the city’s Chulalongkorn, Thailand’s This legacy of architectural landmarks. revered King Rama V, embracing the best of The lobby ceiling takes travelled extensively during European design while cues from Phra Ram his 42-year reign that retaining a sense of place Ratchaniwet Palace, while lasted until 1910. Some of that is unmistakably Asian influences from Phaya Thai his most transformative is showcased to striking Palace are evident at Babette’s The Steakhouse. The three distinct private Details of domes at the hotel’s Muse. Speakeasy rooftop bar are informed by those at Vivenmek Palace. The former monarch’s passion for travel is a pleasantly recurring theme around the hotel. A classic European design aesthetic is enriched with exquisite fabrics and furnishings, intriguing artworks, Asian motifs and seductive lighting. Artful contrasts are everywhere.

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VIE Hotel Bangkok.

VIE HOTEL what many rate as the Transported away from BANGKOK world’s most exciting city, busy streets outside, VIE Hotel Bangkok is a certainly its most popular. guests are beckoned haven of modern, elegant Individual touches further into a realm of style in the main abound throughout the luxury that encompasses commercial quadrant of property. In the lobby, palatial two-story suites, Thailand’s capital. visitors are immediately floor-to-ceiling windows It’s a chance to wowed by a sculpture of a and cozy boltholes such as encounter the handiwork of yellowtail tuna, a striking the property’s French renowned architecture teaser for YTSB (Yellow restaurant, La VIE— practice J+H Boiffils at the Tail Sushi Bar), the hotel’s Creative French Cuisine, hotel. signature Japanese and its on-site VIE Spa. The French firm has restaurant. Elsewhere, the design pulled out the stops to A great deal of effort flair is equally on-point. A ensure that guests have a has gone into creating an skywalk connects the main Bangkok experience they impactful first impression hotel with an adjacent front will never forget. With for all visitors. Splendid tower, one crowned with a immaculate décor and white furnishings and rooftop infinity pool playful art elevating the crystalline décor adorn the enclosed by wrap-around rooms and public areas, the hotel’s lobby and its glass walls, which offer hotel’s bespoke design always-popular, adjacent spectacular views of reflects the exoticism of Piano Bar. downtown. DESIGN

HOTEL destinations around reminiscent of the shape of BARAQUDA Thailand. a ship’s quarterdeck. PATTAYA The bespoke design at A chill, relaxed Pattaya’s enduring Baraquda Pattaya takes ambience is evident popularity with visitors some of its most distinctive throughout the property. from across the globe is a cues from the vessels that The fish-shaped pool, fed testimony to its broad- bob around on the Gulf of by waterfalls and ranging appeal. Jade hued Thailand. surrounded by a sunbathing waves crash onto white- The clean lines and deck dotted with sand beaches while the timber floors give the Instagram-worthy day trappings of a sophisticated impression of being a guest beds, chairs, and loungers, tourism industry—with at one of Thailand’s most offers plentiful scope for stellar restaurants, exclusive nautical parties. advanced lazing. A rooftop incredible bars and a This theme plays out in bar, meanwhile, feels like multitude of shopping various features ranging the top deck of a luxury options all part of the from the sailor-style cruiser and provides the package—give Pattaya an uniforms of the staff to the perfect spot for edge over many of the guestroom beds with their sundowners at the end of other lower-key leather headers another day in paradise.

Poolside, Hotel Baraquda Pattaya. DESIGN

Hôtel de la Coupole.

HÔTEL DE LA It is to this diverse windows, walkways, COUPOLE mélange of influences— terraces and balconies One of Vietnam’s most both indigenous and provide a view towards the striking destinations, Sapa imported—that designer grandstand scenery with offers sweeping vistas and Bill Bensley has turned to widescreen views of the cultural gems in in his work at the Hôtel de Hoang Lien range and abundance. Located high in la Coupole. Vietnam’s highest peak the northern mountains Bensley has leveraged Mount Fansipan. bordering China, the town the splendour of colonial While Vietnam is the rose to prominence during period French architecture undoubted star of the the French colonial period, while ensuring the property show, Bensley has not been with homesick Europeans is imbued with immense reticent about using attracted by its cool, local character. European inflections. Each Continental climate. It’s a place of glamour suite is named after a Since then it has and grandeur where vibrant fabric used by vintage become a tourist draw, with colours and textures French fashion houses and visitors seduced by its inspired by the minority each room category has its beautiful scenery as well tribes of the areas merge individual colour. Executive as the rich tapestry of with furniture, crafts and suites are decorated in a hill-tribe cultures in the paintings informed by deep pink shade surrounding countryside, French haute couture. reminiscent of French rosé especially on epic trekking Striking interiors come while the hotel’s stunning expeditions that are one of to life with antiques, Presidential suite is the area’s signature vintage items, trinkets and cerluean blue to reflect experiences. ethnic motifs, while large northern Vietnam’s skies.

MGALLERY 2019 9 DESIGN

HOTEL ROYAL aristocrat, and Sotaro Araki throughout the property. HOI AN a Japanese merchant. Take the hotel’s two Few towns in Vietnam have The hotel’s two wings signature pools for instance. absorbed outside influences are inspired by the The elevated pool in the as successfully as Hoi An. A Vietnamese princess and Wakaku wing evokes former trading hub of the her Japanese beau. feminine glamor in its once-mighty Champa Naturally, they feature very rooftop bar and its majestic Kingdom, the colourful port different aesthetics. views over downtown and in Central Vietnam is a The Sotaro wing is more the tranquil Thu Bon River. compelling mash-up of traditionally Japanese in In the Sotaro wing, the different flavours. This style, while the Wakaku ground floor pool is more heritage is evoked wing (the princess took on strait-laced but equally especially strongly in the the nickname Wakaku welcoming with its town’s UNESCO-listed old following her move to Art-Nouveau touches centre, a jumble of Japan) is bolder, with lavish elevating its ornately Japanese merchant houses, curtains, curved furniture, patterned tiled floor. Chinese temples and tiffany blue pillows and The happy union of French colonial buildings. paintings, graceful bathtubs Japanese and Vietnamese This confluence of surrounded by lavish is also to the fore in the cultures was the inspiration curtains and leaf-mold property’s two restaurants. behind the concept at Hotel doors pay homage to the Wakaku is inspired by Royal Hoi An, which took as exquisite taste of the 17th-century food culture in its starting point a aristocrat. the Japanese port of 16th-century love affair Indeed, the contrast Nagasaki, while Faifo offers between Princess Ngoc between the lovers is Hoi An specialties as well as Hoa, a Vietnamese evident in other features western dishes.

Hotel Royal Hoi An.

10 MGALLERY 2019 DESIGN

Legacy Yen Tu.

LEGACY YEN TU spiritualism is reflected in tradition of craftsmanship Over the past decade, Bensley’s widescreen vision are plentiful. Materials such innovative designer Bill for the resort. as rice cloth fabric have Bensley has carved Upon encountering the been used for hotel textiles, sumptuous tented camps site, Bensley set about while carved stone floors, out of Cambodian jungle, creating a fusion of past and heavy wooden doors and applied fanciful backstories present, all filtered through walls constructed with rice to buzzy resorts around his individualistic approach husks exude authenticity. Asia and completed projects to interiors. To that end, the Such timeless charm for luminaries ranging from designer took as his muse meshes perfectly with the Mick Jagger to a Malaysian the palace architecture of beautiful surroundings and sultan. Vietnam’s revered Tran the calming atmosphere So it is fitting that one of Dynasty, which lasted within the property. Guests his latest assignments in between 1225 and 1397, and can participate in Asia—the spectacular is considered a golden age meditation, yoga and Zen Legacy Yen Tu—should be for Vietnamese language, meditation and sample located nestled next to a arts and culture. authentic Vietnamese sacred mountain regarded It was Tran Nhan Tong, cuisine in the hotel’s Tho as the birthplace of the third king of the dynasty, Quang restaurant. Vietnamese Buddhism. who is said to have A coup de grace, An hour north of Halong popularized Buddhism in meanwhile, is delivered by Bay, the UNESCO-listed Vietnam after abdicating the the stunning mountain views seascape that is a must-visit throne and decamping to from the Thien Tra lobby bar stop, Yen Tu mountain Yen Tu Mountain to practice and also from the balconies remains a popular place of and teach spiritual practices or exclusive indoor terraces pilgrimage in Vietnam. as a monk. in all the guest rooms. Unsurprisingly, this sense of Nods to Vietnam’s proud DESIGN

Veranda Resort & Villas Hua Hin Cha Am.

VERANDA artisanal touches to exude fortune while any negative RESORT & positive energy. feng shui is a harbinger for VILLAS HUA HIN Despite tracing its roots ill-luck and misfortune. CHA AM back thousands of years to So it makes sense that Only a short hop from ancient cultures in China, such care has been Bangkok, about three hours the practice of feng shui invested in the overall feel by road, the seaside resort has never been more of Veranda Resort Hua Hin. of Hua Hin couldn’t be relevant. Indeed, feng shui Guests are made to feel at further removed from the has long since transcended ease from the moment they frenetic whirl of Thailand’s its geographic roots to are transported into the capital. A long-term become embraced by lush grounds of the favourite of royalty, Thai foreigners as much as it is property. In guestrooms, high society and travellers by the vast Chinese contemporary Asian design in the know, the town is a diaspora in countries such and furnishings created by hothouse of sophisticated as Thailand. A complex local artisans are luxury, natural beauty and body of knowledge fusing complemented by luxe chilled out vibes. metaphysics and modern amenities. Just before Hua Hin, philosophy, feng shui can enjoy a prime ocean-side be tricky to define. location at peaceful In prosaic terms, it Cha-am with its long, reveals how to balance the sandy beach, the property energies of any given space is renowned for instilling a to assure health and good sense of immense well fortune for people being among its guests. inhabiting it. Feng (wind) That state of mind is only and shui (water) are enhanced by lush, tropical associated with good gardens and a resort health in Chinese culture, design that balances water so it has come to be features and elegant associated with good DESIGN

Care too has been taken to imbue public areas with the same sense of balanced serenity. Two on-site restaurants provide a fitting stage for long, languorous evening meals while a free-form infinity pool is an ideal place to soak up the sun and the positive vibes.

VERANDA RESORT PATTAYA NA JOMTIEM V Villas This vision of paradise is one Hua Hin. that is grounded in reality at coastal destinations around the nation. It’s an entrancing Jomtien is a fishing centre, French firm J+H Boiffils, image, one that is evoked with squid a specialty. resembles a gentle effortlessly at Veranda Taking this theme, the squid terracing of hillside rice Resort Pattaya Na Jomtiem is a recurring motif while paddies, with a lush where beach life is the rooms are decorated in hedgerow path leading past inspiration for the design. vibrant, whimsical hues of secluded private pool villas, With peaceful Na Jomtien blue. Beach icons such as their own cocoons, down to Beach the cast of a fishing pebbles and shells inspire the extraordinarily tranquil line away, the call of the motifs such as die-cut wood waters of Hua Hin beach ocean is never far away, with panels and clamshell itself. public and private areas all basins. Relaxation and incorporating a strong Public areas too echo rejuvenation are just two of maritime theme. the siren song of the sea. the watchwords at V Villas Guestrooms are replete The rattan pool bar deploys Hua Hin: an upscale haven with playful touches. Na rustic chic to offer a that incorporates luxe pool castaway experience with a villas and lush landscaping luxurious twist. designed to restore vim and Veranda Resort vigour. Unsurprisingly, Pattaya Na V VILLAS wellness and pampering Jomtiem. HUA HIN play a central role in time Set in the prime location of spent at the property. Beach central Hua Hin, with a wide yoga sets a positive tone for beach, spacious rooms and the day, while a healthy pool villas, the resort is breakfast presented to everything you could ask for guests on a special floating and so much more. tray in their private pool by Intriguing architecture, a 24-hour personal butler is designed by acclaimed an idyllic way to fuel up.

MGALLERY 2019 13 DESIGN

A green outlook in the lobby.

KYOTO YURA blending elements HOTEL reminiscent of the Samurai Few places around Asia, let era with the modern day. alone around the world, Each of the hotel’s evoke as rich a heritage as rooms pays homage to Kyoto when it comes to the local customs and arts and culture. This new, traditions, which are very 144-room hotel on the strong in this, the former edge of Gion, the old centre capital of the country. Call of the city, reflects that it contemporary classical heritage at every turn. design, evident in the local Beautiful gardens and fabric Nishijin-ori that is intricate works of art are found in all rooms. These the norm here. Immediately celebrated weavings date upon entering the hotel, back more than 1,200 there’s a sense that guests years, and are are taking a journey to a complemented with nation at a crossroads; to traditional tatami mats in A Superior the dawn of a modern the seating area of each Twin Room. Japan, all the while guestroom. Japanese tea

14 MGALLERY 2019 DESIGN

The hotel's mod exterior.

sets and paper screens only add to the sense that this will be no ordinary stay in a beautiful setting. Even the natural greenery known throughout Kyoto makes its way indoors, lending a fresh appeal to this modern hotel. Yet the rich tapestries and designs of Kyoto aren’t limited to the hotel in a physical sense. At 54th Station Grill—named after the ancient route connecting Kyoto with Tokyo—the local historical heritage comes alive in the menu. Within walking distance of the hotel are the historic district of Gion, the centrepiece that is Yasaka Shinto Shrine and the downtown district of Kawaramachi. That the hotel absorbs and evokes so much that is Kyoto, stepping out into the lively streets feels seamless. Characterised by old wooden townhouses, or machiya, teahouses Colourful (ochaya), and small interiors. family-run shops, strolling these cobbled lanes feels like a step back in time. 54TH STATION Of course, Kyoto is GRILL. welcoming at any time of year, during any season. One constant, both in the former capital and in the Kyoto Yura hotel, is omotenashi, the idea of wholehearted Japanese hospitality. MIXOLOGY

Drink Like the Locale Cocktails as innovative as the MGallerys that serve them, each of these orders will bring out the story of the hotel in no time.

Scarface, Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan.

HOTEL MUSE BANGKOK LANGSUAN Inspired by the prohibition era America, The Speakeasy Rooftop Bar manages to slide some knowing references into its mix. Cool, low lighting creates a mellow mood, while different zones including a lawn and a terrace recreate the feeling of a soiree at a Gatsby- styled mansion. The cherry on top comes with a list of potent cocktails including a collection of five novel creations named “The Speakeasy Sips.” Instant classics such as the Scarface, a Fernet Branca and whisky infused homage to US gangster Al Capone, and the refreshing White Flapper, with its blend of white wine, tequila and orange bitters.

16 MGALLERY 2019 MIXOLOGY

THE LAKE GARDEN NAY PYI TAW Common around Myanmar is thanakha, a yellowish- Sandalwood white cosmetic past made Princess. from sandalwood bark. The Sandalwood Princess, on the other hand, is only found at this resort in Myanmar's capital. The 3 NAGAS LUANG PRABANG signature drink of jasmine Lao touches enliven the drinks list at the 3 Nagas tea and thanakha-infused Luang Prabang. While Beer Lao and lao-lao (a Bacardi light rum is potent Lao whisky) offer shout outs to the blended with citrus flower populists, the property’s cocktail list takes its honey and fresh lime, then local links to a more elevated level. The signature strained into a bamboo cocktails here are inspired by each one of the cup and topped off with three nagas (half-human/half serpent beings crushed ice. Citrus and central to Lao mythology) believed to inhabit the thanakha then decorate the Mekong River. Drinks are served in Art Deco drink. cocktail glasses with small, colourful umbrellas, akin to those found in Luang Prabang’s buzzing night market, atop elephant-themed coasters. Muan, a touch of Luang Prabang. MIXOLOGY

HOTEL DE L’OPERA HANOI Beloved of writers, painters and playwrights ranging from Toulouse Lautrec to Ernest Hemingway, absinthe has traditionally had plenty of bohemian cache. At Hotel de l’Opera Hanoi—a property that fuses modernist style with a mischievous non-conformist attitude—has gone down a suitably intellectual path by choosing the liquor as the base for a selection of cocktails including its signature drink, The Green Fairy. Utilizing high-grade absinthe, squeezed lemon juice, chilled water, Angostura bitters and egg white with a garnish of anise flower, The Green Fairy encapsulates perfectly the louche atmosphere of the hotel’s La Fee Verte bar. Hemingway, we are sure, would approve.

Absinthe, Hotel de l'Opera Hanoi. MIXOLOGY

Social Club Rooftop, Hôtel Des Arts Saigon.

HÔTEL DES ARTS SAIGON As every mixologist worth his or her salt knows, a good cocktail isn’t just about making a good drink, it’s about creating Black Opium, a memory for the future. This Hôtel Des Arts Saigon. quest underpins the ever- evolving bar menu at Social Club, a line-up that constantly strives for the remarkable. A case in point is a selection of drinks inspired by Yves Saint Laurent. Divided into “his” and “hers” sections, each drink is inspired by a different fragrance, with tasting notes ranging from bitter to sweet and soothing to spicy. La Nuit de l’Homme, for example, pairs bourbon, fresh lime, mango puree, pepper, star anise water and Madagascar vanilla syrup for a bold, textured drink. An Yvresse, on the other hand, strives for elegance with its combination of gin, fresh lime, lychee, orange bitters and egg white.

MGALLERY 2019 19 WELLNESS

Turn Your Life Tranquil There's never been a better time to slow down and enjoy life, which is precisely where MGallery hotels can help.

Wellness Center, Cat Ba. WELLNESS

Wellness Center, Hôtel Perle d'Orient Cat Ba.

HÔTEL PERLE D’ORIENT The hotel rooftop is a lavish centre for CAT BA wellness, featuring a luxurious pool, a Set in a peaceful cove known for its refreshing cafe, and traditional brick-oven tranquil beauty, the resort offers guests style massage and treatment rooms with moments of pure wellness and relaxation. scenic views of the bay. On the rooftop, a stunning wellness centre When it comes to dining, the resort combines traditional Vietnamese features a selection of freshly caught treatments with naturally cleansing seafood, available daily and cooked to food-and-beverage options for a blissful order. There's also a fresh herb garden on and rejuvenating experience. the property that supplies local ingredients Surrounded by lush cliffs and for meals and cocktails. biodiverse Lan Ha Bay, the hotel invites At the spa and wellness centre, guests to discover a world of natural traditional Vietnamese massages and splendour, including hidden lagoons, all-natural detox treatments using local private beaches, trekking, climbing, birding, medicinal healing herbs are on offer. kayaking and more. The resort makes a Come the end of the day, rooftop yoga perfect home base for exploring nearby Ha classes are always popular, particularly if Long Bay and Cat Ba National Park. you've missed the sunrise session.

MGALLERY 2019 21 WELLNESS

Spa, Hotel de la Coupole.

HOTEL DE LA COUPOLE simply retreating from the tropical heat for With its spectacular scenery and uplifting a spell. climate, Sapa has long had strong This emphasis on wellness is to the associations with health and wellbeing. fore at Les Nuages, the sumptuous spa at When the French started developing the Hotel de la Coupole. Fittingly, given the area early in the 20th century, its European origins of modern-day Sapa, restorative qualities were at the forefront. there’s a strong French influence at the By 1912, a military sanatorium for ailing facility. Decorated in creams and black, it officers was in place, and the area’s cool, nods to the refined glamour of vintage healthy air made it a favourite spot for rest haute couture. and recuperation during the French Guests can choose from a selection of colonial period in Vietnam. personalized massages, body scrubs, body These same attributes feed into the wraps and facial treatments, all of which destination’s popularity today, with many are designed to keep Sapa’s holistic visitors embarking on multi-day treks into traditions well and truly intact, and leave the majestic Hoang Lien Son mountains or you yearning to return.

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LA VERANDA RESORT A Detox program has been created to PHU QUOC purify the core by cleansing the body of There are few places better in Vietnam to toxin build-up using a balance of traditional recalibrate than Phu Quoc. These days the techniques such as ancient Oriental island, marooned in the azure ocean off the abdominal massage. nation’s south coast, is a getaway to rival A Burnout Recovery program reduces any in Asia. In addition to its native stress, replenishes energy and restores attributes, the island is home to one of the emotional balance through meditation, region’s most compelling wellness targeted physical treatments and the facilities—multi-award winning TINH expert guidance of experienced therapists. Wellness Sanctuary at La Veranda Resort Other journeys include Back to Wellness, Phu Quoc. Beauty and Vitality, Spa Indulgence and With its idyllic setting, range of Relief From Tension. holistically inspired therapies and Each day begins with morning yoga and treatment rooms themed upon primal meditation followed by a healthy breakfast. elements of earth, water, wood or fire, the The remainder of the morning is devoted to mission of the newly opened sanctuary is a rejuvenating full-body therapy. After a to rejuvenate guests with the curative gifts healthy lunch, guests enjoy light exercise, of Mother Nature. a parts-focused treatment, and talks and Named after the Vietnamese word for workshops designed to promote healthy “peace,” the facility is a tranqiul oasis that lifestyles far into the future. For those has been designed specifically to elevate uncertain which journey is best for them, a the wellness aspirations of guests. one-day Taster Journey of diverse To that end, the spa has developed six treatments is available. transformative journeys designed to Whether seeking a clean start, reviving promote a lifetime of healthy habits. The zest for life, enhancing natural resilience or journeys, which take place over one, three, indulging in the pinnacle of spa treatments, five or seven days, all address different guests enter a world of pampering at TINH, areas of health. a true haven of peace in a tropical paradise.

Organic ingredients, TINH Wellness Sanctuary. WELLNESS

LEGACY YEN TU Energy-restoring treatments are the There are few things in life like starting a order of the day at the wellness centre new day at the picturesque and peaceful where a series of traditional herbal and Yen Tu Mountain. Long a favourite mineral treatments are on offer, aiming to destination for an escape from the bring a balance to every lifestyle. stresses of the modern world, there's even Meditation sessions, rejuvenating salt more reason to visit with the opening of the baths and a tea sommelier all add to the Legacy Yen Tu. overall sense of calm. Promising a chance to refresh the body, To complement the setting and the mind and spirit, the resort is a sanctuary activities, a wide range of vegetarian from the busy modern world, a stop that cuisine with an emphasis on locally blends natural serenity and understated sourced ingredients is on the menu. The elegance. Natural open spaces such as a creative dishes are meant to promote Zen garden and a daily teaching wall with wellness but also focus on making our mindfulness tips allow guests to open up lives more in tune with nature, a sentiment to new ways of thinking. to carry long after check-out.

Meditation at Legacy Yen Tu. WELLNESS

Veranda High Resort Chiang Mai.

VERANDA HIGH RESORT situated on the lower slopes of Doi Suthep, CHIANG MAI a holy mountain where Kruba Srivichai, a No extra effort is needed to conjure up revered monk, founded one of the country’s positive vibrations at Veranda High Resort most famous Buddhist temples. Chiang Mai. Away from the hubbub of His peaceful Zen philosophy is very Thailand’s second city, the getaway is much in line with the atmosphere at the

MGALLERY 2019 25 WELLNESS

Veranda High Resort Chiang Mai.

resort, which provides a haven of peace in solitude. Each private cottage is a the northern capital, with stunning views self-contained spa with a large sunken over tea fields and rice paddies and a bath, steam shower and twin treatment number of water features all contributing beds ideal for couples. to an overall feeling of bliss. The rich forests of northern Thailand This atmosphere of oneness with are well known as a home for an array of nature is prominent at the property’s medicinal and therapeutic plants and exemplary spa, which trades stylishly on herbs. This natural abundance has been its exquisite forest setting. A range of utilized by the resort’s own experienced signature spa treatments is delivered in head therapist who has devised a range of beautifully designed private cottages spa products that make full use of the where guests can unwind in mindful local produce.

26 MGALLERY 2019 Kyoto

JAPAN

MYANMAR Sapa Hanoi Luang Prabang Uong Bi Nay Pyi Taw Chiang Mai LAOS THAILAND Bangkok Hoi An Petchaburi Pattaya VIETNAM Hua Hin Ho Chi Minh City Phuket Phu Quoc

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