SOUTHEAST ASIA NOVEMBER 2019 Time travel in TIBET INSIDER’S GUIDE TO INSTAGRAM TAIWAN’S HOT SPRINGS PLUS PENANG BACOLOD SIEM REAP FIJI AND TONGA SINGAPORE S$7.90 / HONG KONG HK$43 THAILAND THB175 / INDONESIA IDR50,000 MALAYSIA MYR18 / VIETNAM VND85,000 MACAU MOP44 / PHILIPPINES PHP240 BURMA MMK35 / CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 / LAOS LAK52,000 PARTICIPATING LOVE DINING HOTELS FAIRMONT SINGAPORE Asian Market Cafe Prego Szechuan Court 80 Bras Basah Rd, Mikuni Singapore 189560 Singapore’s favourite Italian An oasis of charm and showcasing the breadth and exquisite creations from its elegance, renowned for serving three stunning live stations, authentic Italian family style authentic pan-Asian cuisine. each helmed by a master chef. dining experience. and Cantonese cuisine. SINGAPORE MARRIOTT TANG PLAZA HOTEL Marriott Cafe Pool Grill Wan Hao Chinese Restaurant OTHER LOVE This award-winning restaurant 320 Orchard Road, Indulge in the freshest The ultimate poolside luxury, DINING PARTNERS: Singapore 238865 this al fresco restaurant is an Lobby Lounge chefs whip up a perfect culinary idyllic dining destination in the delicacies, gourmet artistry and feast a la minute. heart of the city. oriental charm. Crossroads Cafe SWISSÔTEL THE SWISSÔTEL STAMFORD MERCHANT COURT 2 Stamford Rd, 20 Merchant Rd, Singapore 178882 Singapore 058281 OTHER LOVE CLOVE SKAI OTHER LOVE Ellenborough Market Cafe DINING PARTNERS: Travel across continents, lands The perfect ambience from DINING PARTNERS: Celebrating the best of Straits Chinese, Kopi Tiam and seas through a tapestry of which to savour Executive Chef Blue Potato LOVE DINING GIVES YOU MORE REASONS aromas weaved together with presenting a tantalising medley of Asian native and international delights menu of sharing dishes. and International delights. TO DINE OUT WITH YOUR LOVED ONES Platinum members enjoy these dining privileges when they dine at any of our Love Dining Hotel partners: THE ST. REGIS Brasserie Les Saveurs LaBrezza The Drawing Room Yan Ting ONE GUEST TWO GUESTS THREE GUESTS FOUR TO NINE GUESTS DINING ALONE SINGAPORE 29 Tanglin Road, Embracing the richness of Pamper yourself with an Showcasing exquisite yet hearty Singapore 247911 experience with delectable à la Italian signatures from the extensive selection of aromatic carte menus, inspired by French various regions of Italy, with allure palates to satisfy even the cuisine. exceptional creations. vintage Champagnes. most discerning gastronomes. 50% 35%* 25% 20% 15% * * Only applicable when payment is made with The American Express Platinum Reserve and The American Express Platinum Credit Card. 35% savings when dining with two (2) friends W SINGAPORE – and 15% savings when dining alone apply to Singapore Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel, The St. Regis Singapore and W Singapore – Sentosa Cove only. 33% savings when dining with two SENTOSA COVE SKIRT the kitchen table WOOBAR (2) friends and 10% savings when dining alone apply to Fairmont Singapore, Swissôtel The Stamford and Swissôtel Merchant Court. 21 Ocean Way Discover the art of grilling at Sample a remix of Choose from 12 exclusive W Please visit amex.co/lovedining for full Terms and Conditions. Sentosa, SKIRT, with top-of-the-line meat contemporary international Mixtape cocktails or sip on (UEN S68FC1878J) 20 (West) Pasir Panjang Road #08-00, Mapletree Business City, Singapore 117439. americanexpress.com.sg. Singapore 098374 and the freshest seafood bespoke concoctions crated with seared to perfection. live cooking at a casual setting. ingredients from around the world. PARTICIPATING LOVE DINING HOTELS FAIRMONT SINGAPORE Asian Market Cafe Prego Szechuan Court 80 Bras Basah Rd, Mikuni Singapore 189560 Singapore’s favourite Italian An oasis of charm and showcasing the breadth and exquisite creations from its elegance, renowned for serving three stunning live stations, authentic Italian family style authentic pan-Asian cuisine. each helmed by a master chef. dining experience. and Cantonese cuisine. SINGAPORE MARRIOTT TANG PLAZA HOTEL Marriott Cafe Pool Grill Wan Hao Chinese Restaurant OTHER LOVE This award-winning restaurant 320 Orchard Road, Indulge in the freshest The ultimate poolside luxury, DINING PARTNERS: this al fresco restaurant is an Singapore 238865 Lobby Lounge chefs whip up a perfect culinary idyllic dining destination in the delicacies, gourmet artistry and feast a la minute. heart of the city. oriental charm. Crossroads Cafe SWISSÔTEL THE SWISSÔTEL STAMFORD MERCHANT COURT 2 Stamford Rd, 20 Merchant Rd, Singapore 178882 Singapore 058281 OTHER LOVE CLOVE SKAI OTHER LOVE Ellenborough Market Cafe DINING PARTNERS: Travel across continents, lands The perfect ambience from DINING PARTNERS: Celebrating the best of Straits Chinese, Kopi Tiam and seas through a tapestry of which to savour Executive Chef Blue Potato aromas weaved together with presenting a tantalising medley of Asian LOVE DINING GIVES YOU MORE REASONS native and international delights menu of sharing dishes. and International delights. TO DINE OUT WITH YOUR LOVED ONES Platinum members enjoy these dining privileges when they dine at any of our Love Dining Hotel partners: THE ST. REGIS Brasserie Les Saveurs LaBrezza The Drawing Room Yan Ting ONE GUEST TWO GUESTS THREE GUESTS FOUR TO NINE GUESTS DINING ALONE SINGAPORE 29 Tanglin Road, Embracing the richness of Pamper yourself with an Showcasing exquisite yet hearty Singapore 247911 experience with delectable à la Italian signatures from the extensive selection of aromatic carte menus, inspired by French various regions of Italy, with allure palates to satisfy even the cuisine. exceptional creations. vintage Champagnes. most discerning gastronomes. 50% 35%* 25% 20% 15% * * Only applicable when payment is made with The American Express Platinum Reserve and The American Express Platinum Credit Card. 35% savings when dining with two (2) friends W SINGAPORE – and 15% savings when dining alone apply to Singapore Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel, The St. Regis Singapore and W Singapore – Sentosa Cove only. 33% savings when dining with two SENTOSA COVE SKIRT the kitchen table WOOBAR (2) friends and 10% savings when dining alone apply to Fairmont Singapore, Swissôtel The Stamford and Swissôtel Merchant Court. 21 Ocean Way Discover the art of grilling at Sample a remix of Choose from 12 exclusive W Please visit amex.co/lovedining for full Terms and Conditions. Sentosa, SKIRT, with top-of-the-line meat contemporary international Mixtape cocktails or sip on (UEN S68FC1878J) 20 (West) Pasir Panjang Road #08-00, Mapletree Business City, Singapore 117439. americanexpress.com.sg. Singapore 098374 and the freshest seafood bespoke concoctions crated with seared to perfection. live cooking at a casual setting. ingredients from around the world. SUBSCRIBE NOW TO OUR DIGITAL EDITION 1 year / 12 issues for US$29.99. Available at www.zinio.com/TravelandLeisureAsia CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LEIGH GRIFFITHS; ARIEL ESTULIN; SIVAN ASKAYO; APRIL WONG powered by Zinio Ad.indd 4 10/11/2562 BE 10:55 CONTENTS Novemberfeatures 66 Maldives Rising A groundswell of new resorts is upping the luxury ante and doing green backflips to save their ecosystems. By Eloise Basuki 76 Plateaued Life takes on an air of mythology in Tibet’s Kham region, where Rachna Sachasinh finds nomadic traditions holding their own against modernity. Photographed by Ariel SUBSCRIBE NOW Estulin 66 76 TO OUR DIGITAL EDITION 88 96 88 World of Wonders In 1 year / 12 issues for US$29.99. this environmentalist age, Fiji and Tonga Available at www.zinio.com/TravelandLeisureAsia offer immersive images that help us focus on how much of the natural world is at risk. Photography by April Wong 96 Away in the Algarve With its breezy way of life, this southern part of Portugal has never had a hard time attracting visitors. By Rosecrans Baldwin. Photographed by Sivan Askayo CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LEIGH GRIFFITHS; ARIEL ESTULIN; SIVAN ASKAYO; APRIL WONG ON THE COVER A blend of styles at the Dzongsar Monastery in Kham, Tibet. Photographed by Ariel Estulin TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 5 powered by Zinio Ad.indd 4 10/11/2562 BE 10:55 CONTENTS IN EVERY ISSUE Contributors 8 The Conversation 10 Editor’s Note 12 Deals 62 Wish You Were Here 106 17 Reasons To Travel Now Photo 30 Strait Malacca Magic A new 48 A New Game in Modena tours from some of our favorite boutique hotel brings fresh life Michelin three-starred chef contributors and luxury hotels; to the seafront in cooler-by-the- Massimo Bottura and his wife, new ways to clear your chakras day Penang. Lara Gilmore, have debuted an at Thailand’s biggest music 34 Kindred Spirits Why Bacolod is inn that provides a great base for festival; get artsy in Singapore; known as the Philippines’ “City discovering the northern Italian and more. of Smiles.” town’s culinary attractions. 22 Spring Break Baring it all at a 40 A Gambol in Geylang In new onsen resort in the Singapore’s grittiest Upgrade Taiwanese hot-spring town of neighborhood, find a colorful 53 #travelgram Sleuth your way Guguan. jumble of heritage shops, ornate through the crazy-popular 26 Tangerine Dreams Japanese temples, bustling kopitiams and photo-sharing app to Insta-plan citrus works its magic, whether legendary eateries. your next, best vacation. squeezed into whisky or steeped 44 The Next Chapter With bespoke in a bath. artisan décor, new luxury rooms and a vintage author’s theme, the refurbished FCC Angkor enters a new era of style. 40 22 30 44 FROM LEFT: LESTER LEDESMA; V. CHRIS SCHALKX; COURTESY OF THE PRESTIGE; COURTESY