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Timeline Project Timeline Project Day Dresses for Women in the United States 1900-2000 Fall Semester 2019 Fash 124 Olivia Liu 11/11/2019 Day Dresses for Women in the United States 1900-2000 This project focuses on the changing silhouettes of day dress for women in the United State during the time period of 1900 to 2000. The silhouette change may be affected by social movement, art movement, women's rights, civil rights, economy boost or recession. Also, new technology and fabrication contributed to the transformation of the silhouettes. The silhouettes may reflect in changing the width of the shoulder, level of the waistline and hemline, the fullness of the skirt, relaxed or slim fit. 11/11/2019 Silhouettes of Day Dress Timeline 1900- 2000 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/c ollection/search/79778?&searchF ield=All&sortBy=Date&when=A.D .+1900-present&where=United+S tates&ft=dress&offset=2000&rpp =80&pos=2073 "The Souper Dress",1966–67 American 1912 1925-26 1940s 1966-1967 1993 1902 1918 1930 1955 1971 1981 Nightclubbing cover in 1981 “New Look”, Bar (Skirt suit), 1947-55 Rudi Gernreich Grace Jones Photo: © CBW / Alamy Stock ca.1971, Photo https://collections.vam.ac.uk/search/?listing_type=& offset=0&limit=15&narrowa=&extrasearch=&q=new +look&commit=Search&quality=0&objectnamesearc https://www.metmuseum.org/ar https://www.vogue.com/article/grace-jones-fashion-i h=&placesearch=&after=&before=&namesearch=& t/collection/search/80327?&sea con-turns-68 materialsearch=&mnsearch=&locationsearch= rchField=All&sortBy=Date&whe n=A.D.+1900-present&where= United+States&ft=dress&offset 11/11/2019 http://www.tiki-toki.com/timeline/entry/36164/Fashion-Timeline/#vars!date=1974-05-28_16:52:00! =2000&rpp=80&pos=2070 FASHIONS FASHIONS 1900-1909 1910-1919 At the turn-of-the-century, Following World War I, women's silhouettes adopted women's silhouette went a "pigeon" shape in which through a dramatic pushed the chest forward transformation. Layers of and held the shoulders and petticoats disappeared, hips were held back. hemlines lifted and presented a more natural body shape. Day dress, 1902–4, American Day dress, 1914–18, American 11/11/2019 The Roaring Twenties FASHIONS 1930-39 1920-1929 During the wealthy 1920s, During the Great Depression, many the silhouette became Americans could not follow fashions square and boxy while the as before. The waistline of day wear waistline dropped and the returned to the anatomical position, hemlines rose as just and hemlines lengthened to the about the knee level. The cuff. scalloped and pointed Madeleine Vionnet introduced hem were popular. bias-cut during the 1930s, so the fabric was cut on the bias to fit closely to the body. Day dress, 1928, Day dress, Day dress, 1930s, Day dress, 1938s, Nellie Harrington 1928, American Nettie Rosenstein, Elizabeth Hawes , American American American Nylon was developed during the 30s, so many designers used nylon and rayon instead of natural fibers. 11/11/2019 "Pop-over" dress, 1942, Claire McCardell, American FASHIONS 1940-49 World War II led many women to enter the workforce. So practical clothing which enabled to move and do labor work.The US War Production Board issued L-85 in 1942 to reduce textiles usage in Women work in positions women's wear, so the clothing previously reserved for during that period used minimum men while they fight in amount of fabric. Dresses are WWII. Dress, 1943, short hemmed and also used less Ensemble, 1944, Claire McCardell, trimmings. The designs of Claire McCardell, American women’s wear are simple and American plain. 11/11/2019 FASHIONS 1950-59 FASHIONS 1960-69 After World War II, women In the 1960s, the predominant silhouette embraced the glamor and was loose and unfitted, and hemlines were short, with the shortest skirts, miniskirts. femininity. Dior launched the "New Look" in 1947. Americans The women’s daywear influenced by the civil adopted this silhouette with a full right, and the feminist movements, etc. skirt, narrow waistline, and hemline just below the knee. Dress, ca. 1965, Mainbocher John F. Kennedy elected U.S president, the First Lady Jacqueline’s styles were widely copied, from her bouffant Dress, hairstyle and crisp coats and suits 1949–50, Claire to her trim pumps and gilt-chain McCardell, handbags. Ensemble, Ensemble, 1967, American ca. 1954, Rudi Gernreich, Vera Maxwell, American American 11/11/2019 FASHIONS FASHIONS 1970-79 1980-89 Around 1970, the midi “Power Suit” was popular skirt because of the increasing was destined to replace power of the female workforce the miniskirt. American women prefer more required the functional and “wearable” dresses and tailored women’s wear. loose fit outfit. In the 80s, shoulders and sleeves were larger, with The wrapping dress was shoulder pads. Dress, 1972, Halston, introduced in the 1970s American by Diane Von Furstenberg and is still Renée Toft Simonsen popular now. Photographed by Lothar Schmid, Vogue, September 1983 Calvin Klein created the Also, Unisex clothing took New York Look which represented classic and The New York Look by place. Calvin Klein, 1972 simplicity and welcomed by American women. Short skirts and miniskirts reappeared in the 1980s. Grace Jones, 80s, Wrap dress, 1975–76, REX FEATURES Diane von Furstenberg, American 11/11/2019 FASHIONS 1990-2000 The fashion for large shoulders continued into the During the late 1990s, it had become early 1990s, after which shoulder lines became more and more difficult to identify one smaller and more natural. look or predominant silhouette. Skirt lengths gradually decreased. Tightly fitted Individuals were likely to dress in dresses were made from spandex stretch fiber styles acceptable to their peers. blends. Fashionable styles came and went Many items made with cutouts or quickly. VOGUE Cover, 1993. January bare midriffs, and lace and sheer were popular. The most common choices were pieces between very short skirts For others, the same basic, classic and those below the calf. styles might be all year long staple Long, straight skirts came with pieces, with more current fashions long slits. showing up in clothing for special occasions from one year to another. By the mid-1990s pant legs became wider, and short, full Kate and Naomi, Look of the Year 1993 Controversial Calvin Klein Jeans skirts appeared. advertisement, 1995 11/11/2019 Image Sources Timeline images (others cited below image) http://www.tiki-toki.com/timeline/entry/36164/Fashion-Timeline/#vars!date=1962-02-26_17:57:45! 1900-1909s https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80356 1910-1919 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83227 1920-1929 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/99717 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157437 1930-39 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80484 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/174423 1940-49 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84029 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84093 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84057 http://www.tiki-toki.com/timeline/entry/36164/Fashion-Timeline/#vars!date=1962-02-26_17:57:45! 1950-59 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84046 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159411 1960-69 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81141 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/101448 11/11/2019 Image Sources 1970-79 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80821 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/79701 Noel Palomo. The World's Most Influential Fashion Designers. Barron’s Educational Series, Inc. 2010. Page 23 1980-1989 https://www.vogue.com/article/catching-up-with-renee-simonsen-face-of-the-80s-contest-winner-vogue-cover-girl-turned-psyc hologist-writer https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/127651?&searchField=All&sortBy=Relevance&ft=Halston&offset=40&rpp= 20&pos=42 1990-2000 https://archive.vogue.com/issue/19930101 Blackman Cally. 100 Years of Fashion. Laurence King Publishing. 2012. Page 269. https://www.gettyimages.com/photos/kate-moss-1993?sort=mostpopular&mediatype=photography&phrase=kate%20moss%2 01993 11/11/2019 Bibliography Blackman, Cally . 100 Years of Fashion. Laurence King Publishing. 2012. Print. Brown, Susan. Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Style. 2012. Print. Kent State University Museum website http://www.tiki-toki.com/timeline/entry/36164/Fashion-Timeline/#vars!date=1754-01-01_04:54:22! Hemingway, Wayne & Gerardine. The Vintage Fashion Bible. A David & Charles Book. 2015.Print. Palomo, Noel. The World's Most Influential Fashion Designers. Barron’s Educational Series, Inc. 2010. Print. Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sara B. Marcketti. SURVEY OF HISTORIC COSTUME. 6th Edition 11/11/2019.
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