Nasty and Nice

UNITED PARTIES THE WASHINGTON SOCIAL SCENE SHOWED THAT POLITICS ALL CHANGE DON’T HAVE TO STAND IN THE DIANE VON FURSTENBERG UNVEILS A NEW STORE LOOK IN LAS VEGAS. WAY OF A GOOD CELEBRATION. PAGE 3 PAGE 11 TAKES DESIGN REINS Wang Gets to Work Remaking Balenciaga By MILES SOCHA PARIS — Alexander Wang, who started this week as Balenciaga’s new creative director, didn’t waste any time requesting a look at the French house’s rich fashion archive. TUESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 “‘Immediately,’ he said, ‘I want to see the archives. WWD I want to understand the culture behind the brand,’” said Isabelle Guichot, chief executive officer of Balenciaga, which revealed Wang’s appointment on Monday, confi rming a report in WWD on Friday. “He could have slept there almost.” On Monday, Wang was busy shooting his pre- fall look books at a studio space in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, so chosen because it could accommodate Nast y his mirror and plywood staircase set. When asked about Balenciaga, Wang demurred, saying only, “We’re still fi guring things out.” The focus was on his own collection, which was built around the idea of “blurriness and mélange,” an antidote to last season’s precise, linear look. As usual And he avoided color, working primarily in black, white and gray with a smattering of brown and “amaretto.” There were tailored jackets, vests and pants but the collection had a softer edge that was still quite sporty. Scarf dresses came in suede and sueded jersey, while other tops and dresses were inspired by athletes’ jer- seys. Sweatshirts were also a big motif, in tweeds, in- Nice tarsias and jacquard. That seductive combo When a guest remarked that one might fi nd a hint got Michael Kors of Balenciaga in the egg-shaped line of one printed silk sweatshirt, Wang only smiled. thinking for pre-fall. But his appreciation for, and curiosity about, At his showroom on Balenciaga’s heritage was among the qualities that Monday, the designer COLLECTIONS helped him win the post at one of Paris’ most storied and — in recent years — directional houses. couldn’t contain PRE-FALL2013 An ability to project the brand into a new stage his enthusiasm for of development, bring additional modernity, and Scarlett Johansson’s understand the “technical culture” and craftsman- ship of the house were among other criteria Guichot upcoming Broadway turn SEE PAGE 8 in “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof.” “Scarlett takes me to Elizabeth Taylor, which takes me to Ava Gardner, and to Madonna,” he said. L.A. Ports Strike Drags On “It’s the idea of sugar and spice.” To wit: By MARCY MEDINA Kors’ ladylike lace skirt topped with a tough leather moto jacket. For more on Kors’ LOS ANGELES — As the strike at the nation’s busi- collection, see wwd.com/fashion-news. est ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach reached day six on Monday, the current and projected economic For more pre-fall, see page 4. impact weighed on those in the industry. With operations at 10 of the 14 cargo container ter- minals shut down, about a dozen container ships sat off- shore over the weekend, unable to unload or load cargo. Another 10 ships were scheduled to arrive Monday. Each ship carries about fi ve warehouses’ worth of goods. Based on last year’s estimates, about $1 billion a day in freight normally moves through the ports at this time of year. Last year, the two ports handled about 40 percent of the total value of all cargo container imports entering the U.S. Apart from the impact on national retail, the strike is considered potentially disastrous for the Southern California economy because the ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach are crucial to the re- gion’s trucking and transport industry, which em- ploys about 595,000 people. Economists have placed the impact at about $1 billion a day in forfeited worker pay, missing revenue for truckers and other businesses, and the value of the cargo that has been diverted to other ports including Oakland, Calif.; Mexico, and the Panama Canal. Others believe the fi gure is infl ated and caution that the immediate impact on the retail industry could be manageable. “The immediate impact should be minor if it lasts only a week. Of course, it’s a negative to lose port- and transportation-related wages each day, but in terms of PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD TUESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2012 Dolce, Gabbana Lawyer Seeks Dismissal 2004 sale of the Dolce & Gabbana THE BRIEFING BOX By LUISA ZARGANI and D&G brands to the designers’ Luxembourg-based holding IN TODAY’S WWD MILAN — A lawyer acting for company, Gado Srl. The Italian Domenico Dolce and Stefano tax police reportedly consider Gabbana on Monday asked a judge Gado essentially a legal entity Zoe Colivas here to dismiss tax evasion charg- used to avoid higher corporate es against the designers and sev- taxes in Italy. eral of their business associates. A separate criminal probe into The designers’ lawyer, Massimo supposed tax irregularities at the Dinoia, asked judge Antonella Dolce & Gabbana Group was part Brambilla to overrule all the ju- of the case dismissed in April. dicial documents and procedures Those accusations address un- against the designers, who are paid taxes of 200 million euros, or charged with omitted and unfaith- $258.7 million. ful earnings declarations. Dinoia In a speech delivered calmly was speaking for the lawyers of the yet firmly, Dinoia said Gado was other defendants, as well. first seen as a “simulated screen,” The request was made during but now the two designers were GRIMA CLYDE ROBERT PHOTO BY the first hearing of the trial in a being considered the “economic Alexander Wang, who started this week as Balenciaga’s Milan courthouse. None of the beneficiaries” of that firm. new creative director, didn’t waste any time requesting a defendants attended. The lawyer said the accusa- look at the French house’s rich fashion archive. PAGE 1 Prosecutors Laura Pedio and Stefano Gabbana tions are unclear, citing “ineffable Gaetano Ruta rejected all the ob- and Domenico Dolce fogginess of the charges. We are As the strike at the ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach jections made by Dinoia. IMAGES RAULE/GETTY JACOPO PHOTO BY entirely in the dark. All that has reached day six on Monday, the current and projected been netted has been declared.” Brambilla will hand down a economic impact weighed on those in the industry. PAGE 1 decision on Dec. 14 on Dinoia’s objections. Ruta replied that the accusations were “modified Among the exceptions, Dinoia cited files that as per the guidelines underscored by the Supreme were deposited tardily and “a totally revolutionary Court” and that there was “no absolute overturning Dior Homme continued its retail expansion by opening a overturning of the charges,” referring to the lat- or new and additional facts.” new store in Miami’s Design District on Saturday. PAGE 3 est charges in the case. While the accusations first Following the hearing, lawyer Fabio Cagnola hinged on fraud, now they revolve around omission who, together with Giuseppe Bana, is defending the Fashion followers of the Duchess of Cambridge will have of tax declaration, the lawyer contended. The de- designers’ accountant Luciano Patelli, explained to watch her style adapt over the next seven months or so: signers were originally absolved of the claims by a that if the judge grants the defendants’ requests to the duchess is pregnant. PAGE 4 lower court in April 2011, but the Italian Supreme dismiss the case, it will return to the hands of the Court in November overturned that decision, saying prosecutors to see if they want to reformulate it. Events put on by each of the political parties highlighted that tax avoidance, or tax mitigation, on an earnings In April 2011, deeming there was no foundation the social calender in Washington this past week. PAGE 9 declaration is a criminal offense under the law. for a trial, judge Simone Luerti dismissed the charg- Following investigations that began in 2008, ini- es against Dolce and Gabbana and five other defen- Rupert Murdoch on Monday confirmed the death of the tiated by the Guardia di Finanza, an Italian police dants, including Dolce’s brother and board member, Daily, his nearly two-year-old iPad magazine. PAGE 9 force under the authority of the national minister of Alfonso Dolce, and managing director and board economy and finance, both designers were charged member Cristiana Ruella. Milan-based prosecutor ON WWD.COM with alleged tax evasion totaling 416 million euros, Laura Pedio appealed to the Supreme Court, which or $540 million at current exchange, related to the issued its ruling after about six months. MODEL CALL: From her enviable brows to a wise-beyond- her-years eloquence, it’s easy to see what puts Zoe Colivas in such high demand. For more, see WWD.com/eye. Retail, Real Estate Opportunities Seen at ICSC CORRECTION Emerald and yellow diamond rings from de Grisogono Canada. Since Topshop opened 14 months ago, sales were incorrectly captioned on page 10, Monday. By JEAN E. PALMIERI increased to $750 a square foot from $200, he revealed. Two additional Topshop units opened after TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS NEW YORK — With the U.S. economy still sputter- that, each one larger than Yorkdale, and sales volume [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. ing, the global landscape in disarray and property is even higher, he said, without providing numbers.

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