The Problems of a Contemporary Hajj Moosa a L I Abstract the Following Is an Anecdotal Monograph, Based Upon Hajj 2009, Recou
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
The Problems of a Contemporary Hajj 1 The Problems of a Contemporary Hajj Moosa A L I Abstract The following is an anecdotal monograph, based upon Hajj 2009, recounting predominantly the problematic aspects of a contemporary pilgrimage to the two Holy Sanctuaries in Makkah and Medina. During Pilgrimage one will experience the very heights of spirituality; alongside this, sadly, one may well also encounter the very depths of profanity. This piece recounts the spiritual highs and lows before offering, by way of conclusion, some suggestions that, though controversial, may prove invaluable in helping to bring back a more profound element of spirituality to a modern Hajj. Contents Page Introduction 2 The Highs 3 The Lows 5 a) Masjid Haram 6 b) Swelling, Uncontrollable numbers 7 c) Disrespect for the Sacred Land: Pollution & Behaviours 10 d) Pilgrims & their hosts: Exploitation & Corruption 13 e) Historical Sites & Relics 15 f) The Saudi Vision: Permanently Altering the Sacred Landscape 16 Conclusion 19 Bibliography 24 The Problems of a Contemporary Hajj 2 Photograph 1 – Mina, Makkah, Saudi Arabia Introduction It was said to Ibrahim: “And proclaim to mankind the Hajj. They will come to you on foot and on every lean camel, they will come from every deep and distant mountain highway (to perform Hajj)” [Q 22 Hajj: 27] This verse above is brought to life by a plethora of accounts 1 spanning one and a half millennia. It seems particularly salient given that right up until the first third of the twentieth century, people of all colours, languages and lands were travelling (at least in the last leg of their journeys) on ‘camel’ and on ‘foot’ to the holy sanctuary. Around 4,000 years ago Ibrahim ibn Aazar, thought to be from the ancient Mesopotamian city of Ur (in modern day southern Iraq), embarked on a magnificent journey and struggle as a Messenger of Allah. Towards the end of his life his journey took him to ‘Bakkah’2 where the first mosque on earth was built 3 and a series of pilgrimage (Hajj) rites were revealed by Allah. Today this ancient city is Makkah, lying in a harsh, rocky and mountainous desert landscape where, in antiquity, no crops seem to have grown and a climate of ‘suffocating heat, deadly winds, and clouds of flies ’4 prevailed. For reasons known only to Allah, this land is the most beloved on earth to Him. It is far removed from the lush comforts and adornments of this world in greener, leafier and more fertile parts; it is a place that none would think to visit but those devoted to worshipping Allah, compelled by His instruction: “Pilgrimage to the House (Ka’ba) is a duty mankind owes to Allah, those who are able to undertake it.. ” [Q3:97] Hajj is a unique act of worship such that it is tied not only to a specific time, set and sequence of rituals but also a specific physical geography – the sacred valley of Ibrahim. When the Prophet performed hajj there were approximately 40,000 5 - 90,000 6 people present, a figure utterly 1 See Bibliography 2 Q 3 Ali-Imran: 96 3 According to Mubarakpuri, it was first built by the Angels, and its foundations or building structure subsequently renovated by Adam, then by the Quraysh just before Muhammad became the Messenger of Allah, & finally by Ibn Az-Zubayr [see Mubarakpuri, History of Makkah, p.30]. 4 Maqdisi’s description (ca.966CE) as cited by Wolfe p. XV; Michael Wolfe is a Muslim convert who collected a literary anthology on the Hajj inspired by his own pilgrimage. 5 Two major hadith scholars, Ibn Kathir & Ibn al-Salah, concur that 40,000 people were present at the Farewell Hajj with the Prophet; see Ibn Kathir, ‘The Life of the Prophet Muhammad’; Garnet 2000, volume 4, pages 193 & 20. & Ibn al-Salah al- Shahrazuri, ‘An Introduction to the Science of Hadith’, Garnet (2006), Category 39, page. 214 The Problems of a Contemporary Hajj 3 dwarfed by the current numbers that annually inundate the ancient valley on top of its resident population of 1.2 million 7. To witness a contemporary Hajj is, in many respects, to witness a microcosm of the global Muslim Ummah; and for this reason a contemporary pilgrim (hajji) will witness and experience not only the very heights of spirituality but also the depths of profanity. I say this because there is no better place to witness the oft-mentioned distinction between the lofty Islamic faith on the one hand, and its very human Muslim practitioners on the other, than the two holy sanctuaries of Makkah and Medina during the month of Dhul-Hijjah. This account is a critical reflection on the contemporary realities of pilgrimage, as gleaned from my experience in 2009, and supplemented by Hajj reports from well known historical accounts. The aim here is to highlight those social and organisational aspects of the ‘experience’ which can be improved as opposed to a critique of the institution of hajj and its rites which, as far as I am concerned, are sacred and therefore beyond reproach. I dwell also on the mismatch in sentiments and priorities between the authorities that run the pilgrimage and the pilgrims themselves, many cognisant of the fact that it will be their one and only visit to this Sacred Land, and who therefore come to engage specifically in the rites of worship. In the minds of non-Khaliji 8 Muslims at least, the Arabian Peninsula is an enchanting place, home to the story of the Messenger of Allah . Here he was born, experienced revelation and persecution, migrated to Medina, and established the Islamic faith. These Muslims, therefore, place the Peninsula – because of the Prophet – on a pedestal and harbour certain expectations from the Sacred Mosques, the ancient relics, monuments, and sites of Islamic history therein. Unfortunately these expectations are not always met. Moreover, whilst the importance of the internal, or esoteric, component of worship is commonly stressed - there is an external aesthetic component to worship which, though often overlooked, is clearly present in the Islamic texts. To demonstrate briefly, consider the ritual prayer in which clean white clothing, kohl, use of miswak, perfume, and beautiful recitation is recommended. It follows then that the external components of sight, sound, smell and so on and so forth are also very much part of the experience of worship; and the Hajj ritual as a whole is of course no less an act of worship than prayer or dhikr. In describing the experience of Hajj, therefore, I pay particular attention to these neglected elements. I will proceed to describe briefly, since there are many accounts of this nature, the highs of a contemporary Hajj before steering the theme of the account towards what could be improved, and the importance of speaking about it. Finally, I will conclude with recommendations to improve the pilgrim’s experience. The Highs The first vision of the Ka’bah and the Sacred Mosque is an unforgettable moment. The Ka’bah is a magnificent structure; it stands serene and immovable as thousands circumambulate it on three levels and playful birds chirp as they manoeuvre with wondrous swiftness above, occasionally mirroring the clockwise motion of the pilgrims below them. Its sight is compelling, gripping the eyes of hundreds who stand on the roof of the mosque staring at its mysterious beauty for hours at a time, impervious to fatigue. As Haddad observed: 6 Wolfe p.xvii 7 Wolfe p.xviii; bear in mind this figure is from around 1997 8 By this I mean those not resident in the Arabian peninsula or those Muslims who are not Gulf Arabs The Problems of a Contemporary Hajj 4 “Everybody performs the tawaf, moving in one circular motion around one pivotal point, synonymous with the regulation and orderliness of the universe. The celestial zones rotate, as does the electron in an atom. We are a part of this creation, we travel with it and it travels with us; our Lord and object of worship is One ”9 This is the centre of the world of worship, the most important physical space on earth for Muslims, the oldest place of prayer to the God of Mankind. Prophetic narrations affirm that directly above the Ka’ba is al-Bayt al-Ma’mur, its celestial equivalent – an unfathomably more ancient place of worship – where the Angels have circumambulated beneath the Majestic Throne from time immemorial, praising and glorifying His Majesty in such throngs that, it is narrated, the heavens creak with their sheer numbers. Standing now as a pristine cube, many have conjectured over the significance of the Ka’ba’s shape. But it was not always a cube, for once it stood in the shape of an arched doorway, and Allah alone knows the significance of these shapes and any symbology therein. It is said that Angels laid the foundations for the Ka’ba which were eventually obscured under a mound of red rubble by the time Hagar of Egypt was left there by her husband Ibrahim with their son Ishmael. As is well known, the Well of Zam Zam gushed forth, the tribe of Jurhum arrived and a community began to thrive there. Some 3,000 years later Abdul-Muttalib would sleep by the Ka’ba with his grandson Muhammad. Here the Messenger of Allah had animal entrails thrown on his head, the companions were persecuted, Abu Bakr beaten almost to death. In the grounds of the sacred mosque would have been the homes of numerous Prophetic companions, as well as ardent adversaries of Islam and its Muslim adherents.