The Paisano Big Bendnationalpark PO Box 129 Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 To

Home , Backpacking (travel)

Basin andRioGrandeVillage. the park.IncludesdetailedmapsofChisos Find outhowtomakethemostofyourtimein 6 What to &Do See Tree ChollaCactusBlossom

Big Bend National Park Welcome to Big National Bend Park! The Paisano Big BendNationalPark PO Box 129 Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 To:

EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ they called this area ElDespoblado—the RegionBend to besoremote, sowild, that In fact, early explorers found the Big remaining wild corners the of United States. river. Here you canexplore one the of last forested mountains, and anever-changing massive canyons, vast desertexpanses, the ChisosMountains, Big includes Bend along the Rio Grande to nearly 8,000feet in From anelevation lessthan of 1,800 feet enjoyment. 800,000 acres await your exploration and Rio Grande Wild and River! Scenic Over Welcome to Big National Bend Park and the hook-ups. as RV about thethree developedcampgrounds aswell Interested more incampingthepark?Learn Campgrounds 10 Volcanic depositsnearCastolon much diversity and life there isinthe desert! or hike ascenic trail, and discover just how Take adrive along one Big roads, Bend's of wildlife. full pollinators, of herbivores, and other thrive inthe park and support ecosystems floor the of desert, over plants 1,500types of From the forests the of Chisosdown to the life. butBend, even here you are surrounded by might feel alone inthe wilderness Big of appears to bedesolate and barren. One uninhabited land. At first glance, the desert backpacking, rivertrips,andhorsebackriding. including:primitivecamping, Bend's wilderness moreLearn aboutopportunitiestoenjoyBig 11 Backcountry

B. Trester U. Volume Guide Visitor R Big Texas National Park Superintendent William E.Wellman Superintendent William mountains. the desertto the heights the of Chisos diversity, from the banks the of river through you will take the time to experience this and animal life. During your visit Ihope has anunbelievableBend variety plant of range elevations, of soils, and vegetation, Big location along the Rio Grande and the broad to the ancient its past. of unique Because The incredible variety life of isnotlimited remarkable resource to park visitors. the Fossil Discovery Trail to interpret this NationalBend Park are currently developing System. Park and staff the Friends Big of fossil record any of park inthe National Park This park has the longest and most complete amount life—and of has for millions years. of National Park contains anastonishing But the Chihuahuan inBig Bend Desert cactus or two when they think“desert.” of Many people envision barren sand with a S io GrandeWild& uperintendent’s Message S More Inside... Weather andClimate Birds andBird Watching Keeping W Safety Park Partners Night Skies Information andServices In theNews Featur Day Hikes Bor . DepartmentoftheInterior Bend NationalPark der Information 32, number 1 2012 number1 32, �� e Articles �� ildlife Wild S �� ervice �� S cenic ��

�� R iver �� 12 12 3 2 8 9 2 4 7 3 8

B. Trester National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior

Big Bend National Park In the News Rio Grande Wild & Scenic River

The National Park Service was established on August 25, 1916. . . “to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wildlife. . . and to provide

for the enjoyment of the same in such ado r manner and by such means as will leave u J. J them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.”

Authorized by congress in 1935, and of a city. But it could be. It probably isn’t the makes people feel safe, but it has negative established in June 1944, Big Bend Dark Matters almost perfect silence that allows people implications that affect both people and most National Park preserves the most Park Ranger Bob Smith to hear themselves think. Maybe it is. Most other living things. representative example of the Chihuahuan likely what they notice is that after the Desert ecosystem in the United States. When someone arrives in the Big Bend and sun goes down, it’s dark. Really dark. As When the natural cycle of night and day is stays more than just a day, they tend to notice in darker than anywhere else in the lower extended, as with artificial light, organisms Park Mailing Address something that is becoming rarer as time 48 states. And maybe that scares them. have a difficult time coping with the changes. Big Bend National Park passes and civilization expands. It usually Why? Because in most cities in the U.S. and Prey has more chance of being preyed upon, PO Box 129 isn’t the obvious lack of the street after elsewhere artificial light has made a truly visual cues for reproduction and migration Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 street, building after building infrastructure dark night something they never see. Light are altered, and sleep patterns change. All of these can be harmful to their existence. Phone 432-477-2251 So what does this have to do with the Park Websites Big Bend? In February of 2012, Big Bend www.nps.gov/bibe/ National Park was awarded the Gold www.nps.gov/rigr/ Tier Level Dark Sky Park certification by the International Dark Sky Association. On matters relating to the Paisano: Researchers from the National Park Service National Park Service have found that the night skies in Big Bend Editor, The Big Bend Paisano are the darkest in the lower 48 states. The PO Box 129 park attained this status by partnering with Big Bend National Park, TX Musco Sports Lighting, LLC, to change all 79834 lighting in the park to low output LED’s [email protected] and reduce the light signature from the The National Park Service cares for the infrastructure. This has the effect of giving special places saved by the American back the dark to the living things we are people so that all may experience our charged to protect. It also gives visitors a e heritage. place to get away from the extended day that onit city lights create. So everyone and everything

™ . W EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA R here benefit from these changes. Why is this Superintendent Wellman accepts prestigious International Dark Sky Gold Tier Award so important? Because dark matters…

Support Your Park! Park Partners Become a member and create a lasting Big Bend Natural History Friends of Big Bend Volunteers in the Park relationship with Big Bend National Park. Association Founded in 1996, the Friends of Big Bend Approximately 260 volunteers contribute National Park is a private, non-profit 50,000 hours of work every year in Big Bend Do more with your dues! The Big Bend Natural History Association organization with a mission to support, National Park! Whether manning visitor Purchase a dual annual membership in (BBNHA) was established in 1956 as a both Big Bend Natural History Association private, non-profit organization. The promote, and raise funds for Big Bend centers and campgrounds or patrolling (BBNHA) and Friends of Big Bend National Association’s goal is to educate the public National Park in partnership with the backcountry trails, volunteers protect Park (FBBNP) for only $100. and increase understanding and appreciation National Park Service and other supporters valuable resources and help visitors learn of the Big Bend area and what it represents in who value the unique qualities of this about, and more safely enjoy, Big Bend Member Benefits terms of our historical and natural heritage. national resource on the Rio Grande. National Park. Membership benefits include a 15% BBNHA champions the mission of the discount in BBNHA bookstores; a 10% National Park Service in interpreting the The Friends of Big Bend National Park has While you might not notice volunteer discount on most seminars; a subscription scenic, scientific, and historic values of Big funded a range of critical projects, including contributions at first, look around and you'll to the Big Bend Paisano; a current Big Bend, and encourages research related to wildlife research programs, the purchase of be surprised how many volunteers you see. Bend calendar; discounts at many other air and water quality monitoring equipment, It is primarily volunteers who provide visitor association bookstores in other national those values. and the construction and renovation of the information at campgrounds, and at four of park sites; and the opportunity to support park infrastructure. the five visitor centers in the park. They keep scientific, educational, and research The Association conducts seminars, and programs in Big Bend. publishes, prints, or otherwise provides the campsites, backcountry roads, and trails books, maps, and interpretive materials on Get In On the $30-Per-Plate Fund-Raiser in pristine condition, assist with maintenance Annual Dues the Big Bend region. Proceeds fund exhibits, Big Bend custom license plates are available projects, and are considered the eyes and • Individual $50 films, interpretive programs, seminars, for your car, truck, or motorcycle from the ears of the park. Please thank them for their • Associate $100 museum activities, and research. state of Texas and most of the proceeds go services if you have the opportunity. For • Corporate $200 to preservation and protection of Big Bend more information, contact the volunteer • Joint Membership $100 National Park. coordinator at 432-477-1196.

Life Membership • Individual/Family $500 • Corporate $1000 • Benefactor $2500

Join online at: www.bigbendbookstore.org

For more information: 432-477-2236 PO Box 200 Big Bend National Park, Texas 79834 432-477-2242 www.bigbendbookstore.org www.bigbendfriends.org www.nps.gov/volunteer

2 The Paisano Big Bend and the Border allou C. B

The Fluid Border Border Merchants Grande, and jeopardizes the possibility of In addition to defining the curve that forms Mexican Nationals may approach you from reopening the crossings in the future. Border Safety the Big Bend, the Rio Grande also serves across the river to sell souvenir items such as as the international boundary between the walking sticks, bracelets, and crafts. If you Sotol walking sticks and other handcrafted • Know where you are at all times, United States and Mexico. Throughout agree to look at or purchase their items and items made in Boquillas, Mexico, can only be follow good safety procedures, and use much of its history, the border along the Rio the Mexicans cross the river, they may be purchased legally at sales outlets inside and common sense. Remember, cell phone Grande has been fluid, allowing people of arrested for being in the U.S. illegally. They outside of the park. service is limited in many areas of the both countries to come and go as needed. will be held until deported back to Mexico park. However, the border is an artificial boundary through Presidio (100 miles away). Mexican • Keep valuables, including spare change, imposed on the natural environment, merchants will be arrested for illegal out of sight and lock your vehicle. and as such is subject to political and commercial operations which may result in social pressures that continue to evolve. a fine and/or additional incarceration while • Avoid travel on well-used but unofficial Increased border restrictions have led to a awaiting adjudication prior to deportation. “trails”. number of important changes that affect the international boundary in Big Bend. Items purchased will be considered • Do not pick up hitchhikers. contraband and seized by officers when Border Crossing encountered. Rocks, minerals, and • People in distress may ask for food, water, or other assistance. Please As a result of a 2002 U.S. Customs and archeological items cannot be purchased, report the location of the individuals Border Protection decision, crossing the imported, or possessed in a national park. to park staff or Border Patrol as soon border, except at a legal port of entry, is as possible. Lack of water is a life- In addition, illegal trade impacts the strictly prohibited. The closest legal ports of threatening emergency in the desert. entry include those at Del Rio and Presidio, resources of the park in a number of negative ways, including the creation of social trails Texas. The U.S. Attorney’s Office will • Report any suspicious behavior to park prosecute any criminal violations regarding that crush plants along the river and cause staff or the Border Patrol. Please do not illegal crossings. If you re-enter the United erosion of riverbanks, and an increase in contact suspicious persons. States at any point within Big Bend National garbage and contaminants along the Rio Park, before a port of entry is established, Grande watershed. Supporting this illegal • Ask at the visitor center or contact a photo you may be liable for a fine of not more than activity contributes to the continued damage S ranger or a Border Patrol agent about $5,000 or imprisonment for up to one year, of the natural resources along the Rio NP areas where you may have concerns or both. Mexican crafts about traveling.

Protecting Yourself and the Park Wild Animal Encounters

Big Bend may be wild and unfamiliar country, yet it need not be dangerous. Whether hiking the high country, rafting the Rio Grande, observing wildlife, For many people, the chance to see a or driving the scenic roads, let safety be your constant companion. Spend a moment reviewing these common safety concerns. By giving forethought to bear or mountain lion in the natural your actions you can have a safe, exciting, and rewarding experience in Big Bend National Park. environment is an amazing opportunity. However, one must always remember that we are entering their home, their territory. Driving Hiking Pets in the Park As such, we need to respect wildlife, and Most serious injuries and deaths in the Trails vary from easy and well maintained Predators can and do kill pets here. Heat is know what to do if we encounter a wild park result from car accidents. Drive to strenuous primitive routes. Plan hikes also an issue. National parks are refuges for predator: within the speed limit (maximum of 45 in within your ability. Avoid ridges during plants and animals. Dogs leave behind the most areas), and watch for javelina, deer, thunderstorms, and canyons or creek beds scent of a predator, stressing wildlife. Big • Do not run (you may resemble prey). and rabbits grazing along road shoulders, when flash flooding is possible. Carry a Bend has restrictions on pets for both the • Watch children closely and never let especially at night. Some park roads are flashlight and first aid kit, and let someone protection of your animal and the park. them run ahead or lag behind. steep and winding and require extra caution. know where you are going and when you Remember, too, that you share the road with expect to return. If you get hurt or lost, stay Do— • Try to look large. Wave your arms. bicyclists and pedestrians. Pull off the road in one place to conserve water and energy. • Keep pets on a leash (6’ maximum) to take pictures—do not stop or pause in • Walk pets on dirt or paved roadways, • Throw rocks or sticks if threatened. roadways. Please keep your children close; don't let or in campgrounds them run ahead on trails. Remind them that Do not— • If attacked, fight back. Heat desert vegetation is sharp, and make sure • Take pets on trails or on the river The dry desert heat quickly uses up the to carry a first aid kit with tweezers for • Leave animals unattended • Report bear or mountain lion sightings or encounters to a park ranger as soon body's water reserves. Carry and drink removing cactus spines. as possible. water—at least 1 gallon per person per day. As you exercise, you lose salt and water (over Wildlife To help preserve healthy environments a quart and a half per hour during arduous Observe Big Bend’s wildlife from a distance. for both visitors and predators, please exercise). You need both to survive in this Do not follow or approach them. Never feed remember: extreme environment. Reduce alcohol wild animals. Feeding wild animals damages and caffeine intake—the diuretic effects of their health, alters natural behaviors, and • Never leave food or trash unattended, caffeine and alcohol can result in accelerated exposes them to predators and other as bears and other wildlife readily loss of body water. dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by habituate. storing rations and trash securely. Protect your body—our sensitive skin • Never feed wildlife, as no park animal is burns easily; find shade, wear sunscreen, Venomous snakes, scorpions, spiders, and tame, and feeding leads to aggressive future behavior. sunglasses, a brimmed hat, and cover your centipedes are active during warm months. skin with long-sleeves, trousers, and proper Pay attention: check shoes and bedding • Keep a healthy distance between you shoes. Avoid hiking in the lower elevations before use, and use a flashlight at night. and park animals (at least 50 yards). photo

during the heat of the day. S NP

The Paisano 3 Life in Unexpected Places allou C. B

cross the arid landscape—tiny imprints of the shadow of the ledge—the ravens have the tender roots that survived the long, dry Life at the Hoodoos the desert cottontail that bounded under made a home here as well. Clearly, nature summer. Further along, another unexpected Seasonal Park Ranger Katy Lofton the brush or the large heart-shaped prints of does not consider this to be an uninhabitable find surfaces—a rarely seen horned lizard. mule deer on a long journey between water wasteland. At first glance, the Chihuahuan Desert of the sources. A thin, sinuous trail leading to a After reaching the roadway, and surveying Big Bend appears to be a desolate wilderness, small hole suggests a western coachwhip The journey back to the road discloses more the scene again, I see little but creosote devoid of life save the lonely creosote and snake slithered by, perhaps following a surprises. A tiny, yellow wildflower along scattered through the vast desert landscape. cacti withering under the unceasing sun. kangaroo rat into its underground home. the windswept ridge and more tracks—this However, with time and a little courage to However, a deeper exploration of the time, javelinas. Following their trail brings venture off the beaten path, a world of life is surroundings, even a few steps off the road, Further along, the terrain becomes rockier me to a large patch of unearthed ground — waiting to be explored and discovered—even transports you to a whole new world where but the unmistakable signs of life are still the javelinas worked together and dug out in the most desolate areas. signs of life abound with every glance. present. Along the edge of one of the largest rock columns, the erosive force of water The sculptured and eroded rock pillars of created a shelter, a respite from the desert the Tornillo Creek hoodoos are one such heat. place. At first it seems as if nothing could survive here, but as one ventures across Scrambling up the slope, it is obvious that the dusty plains, evidence of life appears. this desolate rock, despite no water sources Footprints of residents of all shapes and sizes nearby, has been the home of one of the most elusive creatures found in the park today—a mountain lion. At the edge of the shady opening, lion scat amongst scattered piles of bones and feathers is evidence of its success in finding prey in the desert.

Suddenly, a shadow passes overhead and a loud, piercing caw! caw! breaks the dull hush of the desert breeze. A pair of ravens ough

r flutters in to roost on a small, nearly invisible b r

a ledge near the top of the rock pillar. A large allou collection of sticks juts out from beneath M. Y C. B

Desert Cottontail Hoodoos along the road to Persimmon Gap

what a surprise to find a critter joining me in have a tail like a whip which, when used in as they had been seen crossing the parking A Ranger's Joy the workplace! Even here, inside the visitor defense, hurls drops of acetic acid, a form of lot area or hanging out on rocks beside the Park Ranger Natasha Moore center, we find life. vinegar. Vinagaroons are most active during Window View Trail. When a report would the late summer months. come in, I would immediately dash to the One late afternoon, I sat with the front door My first brush with “unexpected life” in the window or out the door, only to have just of the Chisos Basin Visitor Center propped visitor center came in the form of one of The very next week, I was shuffling through missed it. Finally my opportunity came, and open while contemplating the Paisano’s the largest vinegaroons I have encountered. papers when, to my great surprise, out I saw my first wild mountain lion cross the theme of “life in unexpected places.” I was wobbles a tiny nude and blind baby mouse. road just down from the visitor center! jotting down ideas on one of my favorite For the next couple of weeks, each time it subjects, the settlement of this area before was my turn to work at the visitor center, I There is no telling when you may have the it became a national park, when movement wondered what unexpected wildlife would treat of seeing unexpected wildlife while caught my eye. A canyon towhee (also show up next. Hopefully not a snake hunting visiting the Chisos Basin. Sierra del Carmen affectionately known as “the parking lot for mice! white-tailed deer, javelina, various bird bird”) boldly hopped on the door mat just species, and even occasionally, a black bear, er

inside the visitor center. t While the smallest of creatures occasionally frequent the parking area as part of their extend what is naturally their ecosystem into normal activity.

The bird made what appeared to be well- B. Tres the visitor center, larger animals can also be practiced rounds, inspecting the carpet for seen just outside. In this area, with a lot of Whether inside or outside the Chisos Basin insects, and it struck me that I was witnessing After opening one morning, I went around human activity, you might not expect to see Visitor Center, it is this unexpected chance to life in an unexpected place—inside the the counter to unlock the door only to find a wildlife, but large animals are known to walk enjoy a wide variety of life that makes my job Chisos Basin Visitor Center! huge black bug—about 5 inches in length— down the roads or through the campground. unique, and brings magic not only to what I crawling across the floor. Vinegaroons are do, but also represents in part, the magic of One of the greatest joys of working as a park also called whip scorpions because of their In fact, I spent my first year in the Chisos this beautiful park. ranger is the opportunity to see wildlife. But resemblance to true scorpions, but they Basin eagerly watching for a mountain lion, e e onit onit allou allou . W . W R C. B C. B R

Black Bear feeding in the pines Black bear track on the trail Javelina watching visitors Newborn fawn along the Chisos Basin roadway

4 The Paisano Geology photo s np

continental movement forced these beds dinosaurs had disappeared, but flowering Rio Grande, formed nearly 2 million years Geology in a upward forming the Appalachian and plants, mollusks, amphibians, lizards, snakes, ago, continues to carve the vast canyons Nutshell Ouachita Mountains, the western roots of insects, and mammals all survived the as the landscape of Big Bend continues to which are near Persimmon Gap. extinction event known as the Cretaceous/ be subject to the sculpting forces of the NPS Staff Paleogene (or Tertiary) boundary. The elements. Imagine what just a few more Around 135 mya, during the Cretaceous following Paleogene era is called the Age of million years of change could bring! Expansive vistas of varied landscape are Period, a warm shallow sea covered the Big Mammals, as these furry animals flourished immediately apparent when entering Big Bend—part of the Western Interior Seaway during this time. The only strata marking this Bend—banded limestone, white ash, eroding that divided North America. Tiny calcium- extinction on public land in North America sediments, and towering mountains add to rich organisms were abundant, eventually is here in Big Bend. the complexity of this park. Clearly there settling to the ocean floor and becoming the have been many geologic processes and bands of limestone we see today. As early mammals, including horses, forces at work over a vast expanse of time, rhinoceroses, camels, and various rodents leading to the formations we see today. One hundred mya the sea began to retreat roamed the Big Bend area, the age of to its present location, and dinosaur-filled volcanism began. From 43 to 32 mya, It stands to reason that Big Bend has been forests dominated this region. Near the volcanic eruptions formed the Chisos described as both a geologist’s paradise and end of the Cretaceous Period, a massive Mountains, Sierra Quemada, Castolon area a geologist’s nightmare. Although complex, west-to-east compression of North America ash deposits, and the numerous dikes, sills, the geologic history of Big Bend can be built the Rocky Mountains, the second and laccoliths found around the park. Later, simplified into different eras of deposition mountain building period in the Big Bend around 26 mya, massive fracture zones and building. area. Mariscal Mountain is the southernmost created faults that sunk the central part of extension of the Rocky Mountains in the the park, exposing the cliff faces of the Sierra From 500 to 300 million years ago (mya), United States. del Carmens and Mesa de Anguila. the Big Bend area was part of a deep-ocean ado

trough that extended from present-day r

The end of the Cretaceous Period, 65 mya, Big Bend’s geologic history continues u

Arkansas to West Texas. Accumulating J. J marks the most famous extinction on our today. The past 10 million years have been sediments became beds of sandstone planet. By the end of the Cretaceous, the dominated by erosion and sculpting. The Ammonite fossil and shale. About 300 mya, pressure from History and Culture e onit . W R

the extreme difficulty of resupply and and livestock that could be traded for the Anglo-Americans entered and settled the The Influence of communications with such remote frontier other necessities. area, they enlisted Mexicans to build their Hispanic Culture locations. homes. The Hispanic skills at stone and During the 1890s, discoveries of rich adobe masonry still stand at many home sites Park Archaeologist Tom Alex By the early 1800s, Spanish occupation of deposits of lead, zinc, and silver in the scattered throughout the park. this territory consisted of small settlements Sierra del Carmen in Coahuila, Mexico, and Its location along the international border called rancherias centered on ranching cinnabar at Mariscal and the Terlingua area During the New Deal era of the 1930s, with Mexico places Big Bend where the and farming. San Carlos, San Antonio, led to the growth of Boquillas, Mariscal, the Civilian Conservation Corps worked history and culture of both countries are Altarez, Piedritas, and Salada south of the Study Butte, and Terlingua. Opportunities for to establish the first infrastructure in intertwined. Prior to 1848, this land was part Rio Grande are among the earliest Spanish work in the mines spurred more settlement preparation for establishment of Big Bend of Mexico until the Treaty of Guadalupe settlements. Most settlements were located on both sides of the river. People seeking National Park. The majority of workers in Hidalgo transferred land north of the Rio at reliable springs or along permanent escape from the turmoil of the Mexican the C.C.C. crews were Hispanic. Heirs to a Grande to the U.S. The influence of Hispanic streams. In many Spanish settlements like Revolution and a better life for their families culture that emphasizes the importance of culture is profound but rests in the more San Carlos, Europeans intermarried with were drawn to this area. Terlingua Abajo and family, hard work, and the spirit of survival, obscure pages of history. As research on native people, creating a rich intercultural La Coyota supplied garden crops for workers they continue to exemplify the values that are these people continues, new light sheds a mingling of Old World and New World of Terlingua and wood for the mine furnaces. their cultural legacy. better understanding of the importance of knowledge and traditions. This combined the Hispanic contribution to park history. ancient knowledge equipped people with At Boquillas, Texas, Don Juan and Doña unique practical wisdom, enabling their Maria (Chata) Sada, well known Big Bend Spanish explorations in the New World survival in an otherwise hostile environment. residents, maintained a modest business, during the 16th and 17th centuries passed This wisdom forms a significant part of the providing food and beverages for anyone near the Big Bend, but until the mid 19th heritage of today’s Hispanic people. who visited the village. Chata’s hospitality century the land remained dominated by was renowned throughout the area and American Indians. During the 18th century, The Rio Grande and its larger tributaries the couple were highly respected in the Big the Spanish government established military attracted farmers since prehistoric times. Bend. At Glenn Springs, McKinney Springs, fortresses (presidios) to bring order to During the 1880s, Hispanic families and Sierra Chino, Mexicans labored in the Nueva Vizcaya (New Spain). For a short established communities at La Coyota and production of candelilla wax. time (1775-1784), Spanish soldiers staffed Terlingua Abajo, inside what is now the presidios at San Carlos and San Vicente national park. These small farms and goat The influence of Hispanic culture is visible on the south side of the Rio Grande. The ranches were sufficient to supply the needs at numerous historic sites in Big Bend where allou Spanish soon abandoned these forts because of their immediate group, yet productive the Mexicans who originally occupied the C. B of inefficiency at deterring Indian invaders, enough to provide a surplus of food crops land built homes of rock and adobe. As View of Boquillas, Mexico financial burdens on the government, and

The Paisano 5 What to See and Do

Chisos Basin Chisos Basin A drive to the Chisos Basin is an excellent 5401 ft 1646 m way to experience the transition between arid desert and cooler mountain habitats. As this scenic, winding road rises over two thousand feet above the desert fl oor, it off ers vistas of the mountain peaks and the erosion-formed basin area.

Within the Chisos Basin area is a visitor center, campground, lodge, restaurant, camper store, and miles of hiking trails.

With limited time, walk the Window View Trail for easy access to mountain vistas, and a classic sunset view. If time permits, consider hiking (or backpacking) into the High Chisos to witness the towering forests of Boot Canyon or the unparalleled vistas of the South Rim.

Note: this road is not suitable for RVs longer than 24' or trailers longer than 20'. rio Grande Village rio Grande Village The drive to Rio Grande Village traverses 1850 ft 564 m ancient limestone and has marvelous vistas of the magnifi cent Sierra del Carmens. Along the way is the oasis at Dugout Wells and a spur road leads to the popular Hot Springs.

Continue the drive to Boquillas Canyon, where a short hike off ers excellent views of the Rio Grande as it enters the canyon.

Rio Grande Village has a visitor center, campground, RV hook-ups, camp store, and picnic area.

Take a stroll (or a short drive) from the store to Daniels' Ranch; this is a great area for birding. Picnic tables are near the historic ruins.

The Rio Grande Village Nature Trail crosses a wildlife viewing boardwalk, then gradually climbs the hillside, off ering panoramic views of the river, Sierra del Carmens, and Chisos Mountains. This is an excellent sunset vista. ross Maxwell scenic Drive ross Maxwell scenic Drive A trip along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive For more details, use the offi cial park map. highlights the geologic splendor Big Bend is famous for, and off ers many scenic overlooks and exhibits along the way. Sotol Vista, Mule Ears Overlook, and Tuff Canyon are all worthwhile stops.

History is highlighted at Sam Nail Ranch, Homer Wilson (Blue Creek) Ranch, and the Castolon Historic Compound. Castolon has a visitor center, camp store, and nearby is the Cottonwood Campground.

Continue the drive to the magnifi cent Santa Elena Canyon, where limestone cliff s rise 1,500’ above the Rio Grande. A short trail leads into the canyon.

Return by the same route, or take the gravel Old Maverick Road to the western entrance of the park. This road is usually passable for most vehicles, but may be impassable after heavy rains. Check at a visitor center for current conditions.

6 The Paisano Popular Day Hikes

The Chisos Mountains Smoking is prohibited on all trails in the Chisos Mountains.

Trail Trailhead Location Round Trip (mi/km) Avg Time Elevation (ft/m) Description

Basin Loop Chisos Basin Trailhead 1.9/2.6 1 hour 350/107 Moderate Connects the Laguna Meadow and (near the Basin Store) Pinnacles Trails. Nice views of the Basin area.

Emory Peak Chisos Basin Trailhead 10.5/17 7 hours 2400/789 Strenuous Trail leads to the highest peak in (near the Basin Store) the park, with excellent views. The end of the trail involves some moderate rock climbing.

Lost Mine Basin Road, mile 5 4.8/7.7 3 hours 1100/335 Moderate Excellent mountain and desert (at the pass) views. For a shorter hike, 1 mile up is a great view to the southeast.

South Rim Chisos Basin Trailhead 12/19.4 8 hours 2000/656 Strenuous Trail leads to the 2000’ cliff with (near the Basin Store) 15/24 10 hours 2000/656 incredible views of the desert below. Hike either the southwest rim, or add the northeast and southeast rim trails when open.

Window Chisos Basin Trailhead 5.6/9.0 4 hours 980/299 Moderate Descends to the top of the Window or Basin Campground 4.4/7.0 3 hours 500/152 pour-off. Great scenery and wildlife viewing. For a shorter hike, start from the Basin Campground (near campsite 51)

Window View Chisos Basin Trailhead 0.3/0.5 1/4 hour 0/0 Easy Level, paved, accessible. Great mountain allou

(near the Basin Store) views. Best place in the Basin to catch a sunset C. B through the Window. Window View Trail sunset

Eastside — Panther Junction and Rio Grande Village

Trail Trailhead Location Round Trip (mi/km) Avg Time Elevation (ft/m) Description

Grapevine Hills Grapevine Hills Road, 2.2/3.5 1 hour 240/73 Easy Follows a sandy wash through a boulder Balanced Rock 3.5 miles west of field. A short but steep climb near the end Panther Junction takes you to a large balanced rock. No shade.

Chihuahuan Desert Dugout Wells 0.5/0.8 1/2 hour 10/3 Easy Loop trail with interpretive signs on Nature Trail desert ecology. Look for javelina tracks and resident birds.

Hot Springs End of Hot Springs Road 0.75/1.2 1/2 hour 0/0 Easy Walk past historic buildings to the (unpaved narrow road) riverside hot spring. Enjoy a soak in 105°F water. Spring is subject to flooding during rising river levels.

Boquillas Canyon End of Boquillas Canyon 1.4/2.3 1 hour 40/12 Easy Begins with a short climb, then descends Road via a sandy path to the river. Ends near a huge sand dune “slide.”

Daniel’s Ranch to Daniels' Ranch parking 6/10 3 hours 100/31 Moderate Trail from Daniels' Ranch to the Hot Hot Springs Trail area, west of Rio Springs. Cliff drop-offs prevent access to the Grande Village river along most of the route. No shade.

Rio Grande Village Rio Grande Village, 0.75/1.2 1 hour 130/40 Easy First 300' leads to a wildlife viewing Nature Trail across from campsite 18 platform on a pond. Trail then climbs the ado

hillside with views of the river and mountains. r Great for birding and sunsets. u J. J

Hot Springs

Westside — Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive

Trail Trailhead Location Round Trip (mi/km) Avg Time Elevation (ft/m) Description

Sam Nail Ranch Ross Maxwell Scenic 0.5/0.8 1/2 hour 10/3 Easy Well-maintained trail leads through the Drive, mile 3 old ranch site. The combination of water and shade makes this an excellent birding location.

Lower Burro Mesa Burro Mesa Spur Road 1.0/1.6 1/2 hour 60/18 Easy Trail enters a dry wash and ends at the Pour-off bottom of the dramatic Burro Mesa pour-off. A great walk for viewing geological features.

Chimneys Ross Maxwell Scenic 4.8/7.7 2 hours 400/122 Moderate Flat and scenic desert trail to rock Drive, mile 13 formations of an eroded dike. Look for Native American rock art and shelters. No shade.

Mule Ears Spring Ross Maxwell Scenic 3.8/6.1 3 hours 20/6 Moderate Beautiful desert hike to a small Drive, mile 15 spring. Spectacular geology with mountain and desert views.

Tuff Canyon Ross Maxwell Scenic 0.75/1.2 1/2 hour 100/31 Moderate Two trails from the parking lot both Drive, mile 17 provide outstanding balcony overlooks; one of the trails descends to the floor of the canyon. ado

Santa Elena Ross Maxwell Scenic 1.6/2.6 1 hour 80/26 Easy Sandy path crosses Terlingua Creek. Trail r Canyon Drive, 8 miles west of switchbacks up to overlook the river before u Castolon gradually dropping to the river in the canyon. J. J View from Chimneys arch

The Paisano 7 Bare-Naked Birding 8 The Paisano8 The outside your tent, camper, or lodge room and clear nights inBig National Bend Park, step and the spirit. Onone those of incredibly viewing offers food for the imagination constellations can berewarding, night sky Though identifying planets, stars, and bare-naked birders. youSame goes come if across one those of youbetter don’t if look at them straight on. eye; therefore, you canseedimmer objects are concentrated inthe your periphery of receptor cells inyour eyes, known asrods, eye, canassist inseeing dim stars. The photo- vision, that is,looking out the corner your of viewed their first moonrise. Using averted since the dawn time, or of at least since they out the heavens with curious, unaided eyes is nothing new. People have beenchecking be acurrent rage, but naked-eye astronomy Avert your eyes! Bare-naked birding may Seasonal ParkRangerGailAbend Astronomy Naked-eye 23 inches long, with adistinctive stance, iconic birds, the greater roadrunner. At Take for example one Big most Bend’s of your existing skills. is achallenging way to advance and develop watcher who already has some knowledge, it a great way to start birding. And for abird might nothave all the latest equipment, it’s eyes and ears.For abeginning birder who and apps, and concentrate on using your and spotting scopes, telephoto lenses,iPods leave all your gear at home, the binoculars your next bird watching outing—that is, recently advocated going bare-naked during TheBirding American Associationhas spring and summer?! Birding" inBig National Bend Park this do it here too—why "Bare-Naked nottry cacti and thorns won’t stick you, but you can it at Padre Island National Seashore, where quite aliberating experience! You could try matter, young and old cando it, and it canbe all the rage across the nation. Age doesn’t There are noregulations against it, and it’s Park Volunteer JanAllen Birds and Bird Watching Night Skies hero Perseus or hiswinged horse Pegasus, look into the sky to and try find the Greek warriors, magic, and more. When you constellations, tell stories superheroes, of the night sky. The star patterns, known as The first graphic novels were written in reflecting itsoff dusty red surface. Mars, glows red-orange due to the sun’s light most the of year. Ourplanetary neighbor, or the evening “star” and therefore isvisible planet Venus. It shines either asthe morning sky. The brilliant diamond inthe sky isthe Members our solar of system also adorn the need equipment. Just look up. It’s inspiring. Way from horizon to horizon. You don’t crosses the sky. Here we canseeour Milky had never seenthat milky stars band of that kids wanted to know where to look. Most how spectacular the Milky Way looked. The a school group from Houston, Iremarked a large city. Onarecent visit to the park by perceptible ineven asmall town, never mind pollution you canseestars that would notbe thestars. airand of lack dry light Because of look up. You will betreated to thousands of over Big beginning Bend inFebruary and Black vultures and turkey vultures circle high bare-naked birding. have trouble using binoculars, will begood at birds easily. Young kids especially, who often wealth information, of and seemotion of the view, our unaided eye cantake ina When notrestricted by binoculars blocking accurate, and it’s something you canpractice. out popsanID. It’s satisfying, it’s hopefully the details they’ve learned over the years and glimpse abird. of Their brains synthesize all general impressions they get from only a with years experience of often speak of colors, and the sounds they make. Birders way they move and fly, their field marks and on their shape and size, their behavior, the Bird watchers learnto identify birds based a great blue heron doing inthe desert?! up acroaking, gangly large blue bird? What’s boardwalk over the beaver pond, and startle onto the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail morning when you walk stealthily out roadrunner! Orhow about early inthe road towards Daniels' Ranch, that it’s a at aglance, asthey drive slowly down the young and old, experienced or not,know long tail, and showy personality, birders and loseyourselfamong the stars. clear night. Look upwith your naked eyes All these wonders and more await you on a sky. Sirius, which isthe brightest star inthe night is found by the brilliant, bluish-white star, to the ecliptic on awinter night. The Big Dog Minor) are seenrising inthe southeast close (CanisMajor)Dog and Little (Canis Dog warrior Orion and hiscompanions the Big the night sky to setinthe west. The mighty ecliptic or apparent path the of sun across and follow line animaginary called the planets and the moon first risein the east Star (Polaris) inthe northern sky. All the the Big Dipperand you canfind the North can also find your way on the ground. Find youIf learnjust afew constellations you starry sky. it’s fun to navigate your way through the imagination to make them out. Nevertheless, to defy logic, and you do need agood imagination. Most constellations seem you might marvel at the Greek’s vivid clothes on inBig Bend! are possibility it of being quite painful, there National Park! By the way, inaddition to the to have fun bare-naked birding inBig Bend Pinnacles Trail, but you don’t need them rare Colima warbler identification on the binoculars will help you to nail down that The latest birding app and agreat pairof Canyon. not alone between the walls Santa of Elena whistles the of canyon wren, to know you are need only hear the cascade loud, magical of signal “golden-fronted woodpecker.” You by adistinctive ‘kihwrr-kihwrr’ call, will seeing anundulating flight pattern, followed admire their flying abilities. With experience, these fascinating birds anymore; you canjust don’t even need to train your binoculars on When you cannote these differences, you fast and frantic flapping (black vulture)?” are the wings held flat with anoccasional tottering side to side (turkey vulture)?” Or the wings inaV-shape and isit teetering and to look at plumage differences, and ask “are March. Forget about using your binoculars regulations against birding without your Bir 2012 Celestial • • • Panther Junctionto • • • • • • • • • • • Chisos Mountains • • • R oss Maxwell Dugout W species. shade tobothresident andmigrant cottonwood trees provide excellent Daniels' RanchPicnicArea—the area forwaterfowl. boardwalk overthepondisanexcellent NatureRio GrandeVillage Trail—a and awindmillatthisdesertoasis. the waxing,gibbousmoon. December 24–25—Jupiterhoversabove 120 sightingsperminute. shower; newmoonwillnotobscure the December 13–14—Geminidmeteor as a“blue”moon. second mooninAugustandreferred to August 31—Fullmoontonightisthe the 90sightingsperhour. crescent moonshouldnot interfere with August 12—Perseidmeteorshower; up inthedawnsky. in theconstellationTaurus haveameet- Jupiter, andthered giantstarAldebaran July 14–15—Crescent moon,Venus, June 4—Partialeclipseofthemoon. May 20—Annulareclipseofthesun. distance of221,801miles. ata at 11pmCentralDaylightTime Reaches perigee(closestpointtoearth) May 5—Largestfullmoonof2012. falcons andswifts. South Rim—this2000'cliff isknownfor Colima Warbler andotherspecies. Boot Canyon—thenestingarea ofthe basin developedareas. be foundaround thecampground and Basin area—many mountainbirds can here provide ahavenforbirds. Cottonwood Campground—large trees an area knownforhummingbirds. Ranchare theRedRocks, Homer Wilson Blue Creek Trail—a halfmilefrom the trees attractbirds tothishistoricruin. Sam NailRanch—windmillsandlarge ding Hot ells—shady cottonwoodtrees S cenic Drive S R pots io GrandeVillage E vents

B. Trester NPS Photo These highly adapted the members of Coyotes range over the entire United States. beings. in general, coyotes do notbother human and long snout may seemintimidating, but iconic fi gure. Their narrow-set, yellow eyes let you know you are inthe presence an of various vocalizations from yipsto howls more than the song acoyote. of Their Nothing inBig speaks Bend wilderness of Coyotes Physically, they resemble pigs, but are not developed smell, senseof but poor vision. 10–25 individuals. Peccaries have ahighly travel ingroups called bands that consist of and weigh between 40–60lbs. They usually They are covered with black, bristly hairs U.S. in Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona. peccaries, these animals are only found inthe new experience. Also known ascollared (pronounced hav-uh-LEE-nuh) isa For many visitors, seeing ajavelina Javelinas top predator, sometimes becoming the meal Perhaps surprising, rattlesnakes are nota spread disease. small animals—many which of are pests or environment, eating mice, rats, and other This often-feared reptile isbenefi cial to the Black-tailed, Mojave, and Rock rattlesnakes. National Park—the Western Diamondback, Four species rattlesnake of live inBig Bend rattlesnakes and vegetation. Research shows these large territories, lions help balance herbivores territory at least of one lion. Within their Everywhere inBig you Bend, are inthe dozen lions. estimate astable population about of two from mountain to desert,and biologists Mountain lions live throughout the park maintaining the park’s biological diversity. is Big top Bend’s predator, and isvital in Solitary and secretive, the mountain lion Mountain Lions also includes small mammals, reptiles, and nuts,of fruits, sotol and yucca but hearts, A black bear'snormal diet consists largely live inthe park. biologists estimate around 15–20black bears began returning from Mexico. Today, wildlife by the 1940s.Nearly fi fty years later, they Mountains, they disappeared from this area bears and for the park. Native to the Chisos National Park isasuccess story for both The return black of bearsto Big Bend Black Bears Keeping Wildlife Wild lasting packs. However, unlike wolves, they do notform in relays to tire it, or waiting inambush. work cooperatively, either chasing ananimal in areas where food isplentiful. They will in small groups when individuals converge Coyotes are typically solitary, but will hunt food source inwinter. meat isunavailable. Carrion isanimportant also eat berries and other vegetation when mammals, reptiles, and insects. Coyotes will canine family are omnivores, dining on small when you are away from your campsite. boxes unattended at any time. Flatten tents campgrounds. notleave Do coolers or food the food storage lockers provided inthe by storing all food inside avehicle or in involved. Protect yourselves and the javelina aggressive, they canbewhen food is raided by javelinas. Although notnormally Every year reports document campsites piñon nuts, fruits, berries, and seeds. prickly pearcactus, grasses, mesquite beans, closely related. A javelina’s diet includes occur within abite. 12hours of a ranger promptly, aspermanent damage can have occurred bitten, in Big If Bend. contact provoking aself-defensive bite. A few bites threat; continue toward them, and you risk sound asawarning when they perceive a this isagood thing, asrattlesnakes usethis sound that will stop you inyour tracks. And The arattlesnake buzzof isanunmistakable other snakes, such asthe western coachwhip. roadrunners,of skunks, coyotes, and even visitor centers. about mountain lions isavailable at park let them runaheadyou. of A free brochure Also, watch your children closely; never and avoid hiking alone or at dusk and dawn. action isto beaware your of surroundings also occur along trails. Your best plan of arehalf seenalong roadways, but encounters sightings inBig National Bend Park. Over Each year visitors report around 130lion within the limits their of food resources. predators help keep both deer and javelina at all visitor centers. free brochure about black bearsisavailable throughout the park are bearproof aswell. A suitable for storing edible items. Dumpsters edibles. Hard-sided vehicles are also have bearproof storage lockers for caching sites, and some primitive roadside campsites Campground, High Chisosbackpacking items away from bears. The ChisosBasin Big has made Bend it easy to keep edible food from human sources. can become aggressive they if learnto take carrion. normally Bears avoid humans, but

J. JUrADO M. YArBrOUGH J. JUrADO r. WONITe r. WONITe Please Help slow Down! • Cyclists • • • • In theBackcountry • • • • In DevelopedCampgrounds • At theLodge So please,slowdown….andenjoy!! the desert. Carmen white-taileddeerboundingacross search ofrodents, orseealovelyDel coachwhip slitheringacross theroad in on thesideofroad, avoidarosy-pink opportunity tonoticejavelinasforaging slower) youwillhaveamuchbetter If youdrivewithinthespeedlimit(or road. symbol ofourpark),ashezipsacross the will killeventheroadrunner, (theavian enough toavoidvehicles,excessivespeeds too highforsomeanimalstoreact fast While theparkspeedof45mphisstill speeds inahurrytogetsomewhere. travellingathigh trucks, trailers,andRVs mammals are hitontheroad bycars, roads. Snakes,songbirds, smallandlarge animals killedeachweekonthepark’s It’s heartbreaking toseethenumberof to saveBigBend’s wildlife! No, it’s nottostopandsmelltheroses, but provided. Use foodstoragelockerswhen food. peels, cigarette butts,andleft-over Carry outalltrash,includingorange trunk orfoodstoragebox. Leave excessfoodandbeveragesinyour toiletries. Avoid carryingodorous foodand Never leavepacksorfoodunattended. proof; store theminyourvehicle. Ice chestsandcoolersare notbear- not ontheground. Dump liquidsinrest room utilitysinks, and foodscrapstoadumpster. Keep yourcampsiteclean.Take trash storage lockerprovided atyoursite. food, anddishesinthebearproof Store food,beverages,toiletries,pet the balcony, orontheporch. Leave nothingoutsideyourroom, on h Piao 9 Paisano The

M. GONZALes Campgrounds ado r u J. J

Chisos Basin Cottonwood Rio Grande Village Rio Grande Village RV The Chisos Basin Campground is Cottonwood Campground is a quiet, shady Set in a large grove of cottonwoods, the Open, paved lot with grassy, tree-lined surrounded by tall, rocky cliffs and desert oasis located between the Castolon campground is adjacent to the Rio Grande. edges. Adjacent to the camp store. This conveniently located near some of the park's Historic District and the scenic Santa Elena The RGV camp store and showers are within campground, operated by Forever Resorts, most spectacular and popular trails. Canyon. walking distance. Inc., has the only full hook-ups in the park. Elevation: 5,401 ft. Elevation: 2,169 ft. Elevation: 1,850 ft. Elevation: 1,850 ft. Open: Year-round Open: Year-round Open: Year-round Open: Year-round Details: 60 campsites (no hook-ups). $14 per Details: 31 campsites (no hook-ups). $14 per Details: 100-site campground (no hook- Details: 25-site, concession-operated RV night ($7 per night with applicable passes). night ($7 per night with applicable passes). ups). $14 per night ($7 per night with park (full hook-ups—water, electrical, and Flush toilets, running water, grills, picnic Pit toilets, picnic tables, grills, and water are applicable passes). Flush toilets, running 3-inch sewer connection). $33, double tables and dump station. Trailers over 20' available. No dump station, no generators water, picnic tables, grills, and some occupancy, with a $3 additional per person and RV's over 24' are not recommended due allowed. A small picnic area is available overhead shelters. Dump station nearby. charge. Periodically, a few sites may not be to narrow, winding road to the Basin, and across from campsite #23. Reservable Campsites: 43 sites are available for a 40' or longer RVs due to the small campsites at this campground. Group Camping: Cottonwood Campground reservable November 15–April 15. Contact size of the parking lot and orientation of the Reservable Campsites: 26 sites are has one group camp site available by advance recreation.gov or call 1-877-444-6777. spaces. are available. reservable from November 15–April 15. reservation only. Maximum occupancy is 25 Group Camping: 4 group sites are available Reservable Campsites: 20 sites are available Contact recreation.gov, or call 1-877-444- persons, minimum occupancy is 9 persons. only by advance reservation. Group by reservation, 5 are held for first come, first- 6777. Group campground is walk-in tent camping campground is walk-in tent camping only. served campers. Register at the Rio Grande Group Camping: 7 group campsites are only. Vehicle parking is restricted to an Vehicle parking is restricted to an adjacent Village store/service station, or call 1-877- available by advance reservation. To reserve adjacent parking area. To reserve the group parking area. To reserve the group campsite, 386-4383, or 432-477-2293. a group campsite, contact recreation.gov or campsite, contact recreation.gov or call contact recreation.gov or call 1-877-444- call 1-877-444-6777. 1-877-444-6777. 6777.

Developed Campgrounds at a Glance

Elevation (ft/meters) Sites Nightly Fee Facilities Registration Comments Chisos Basin 5,401/1,646 60 $14.00* Flush toilets, dump station Self-pay station Surrounded by rocky cliffs; many hiking trails nearby. Cottonwood 2,169/661 31 $14.00* Pit toilets, no generator use allowed Self-pay station In a cottonwood grove along the river. Grassy sites. Rio Grande Village 1,850/564 100 $14.00* Flush toilets, dump station Self-pay station Largest campground; shady sites. Laundry and showers nearby. Rio Grande Village RV 1,850/564 25 $33.00 and up Full hook-ups RGV Camp Store Concession-operated; register at the RGV store. * $7.00 with an eligible Federal Recreation Pass

Dirt Road Adventures Backcountry Roads

Dagger Flat Auto Trail Old Ore Road River Road This seven-mile road (14 miles round-trip) This backcountry road follows the historic The River Road traverses the southern winds eastward to a small valley where there route used in the early 1900s to transport ore portion of Big Bend, providing a great is a forest of giant dagger yuccas. from Mexican mines to the railroad station at opportunity to see the remote backcountry

Marathon. of this park. allou

A self-guiding brochure is available, and C. B provides a useful key to the plants and This road has excellent vistas of the Chisos Midway are the ruins of Mariscal Mine. This Road Name Description geology along this road. Mountains and Tornillo Creek. It passes former mercury mine is a marvel to explore, Dagger Flat Bumpy but OK for cars; very through the foothills of the Deadhorse as numerous structures are still standing. sandy near the end Typically open to all vehicles, this road is Mountains, including the cliffs of Alto Relex. an easy drive, or excellent for bicycling. Allow a full day (5–7 hours) to explore this Glenn Springs Narrow road; no RVs, trailers, However, sandy areas or muddy conditions Ernst Tinaja, five miles from the southern end 55 mile-long road. Backcountry campsites or wide vehicles may seasonally exist. Check with a ranger. of the road, is a popular hiking destination. along the drive (permit required for camping) allow for extended exploration. North Rosillos Deep ruts and sand Allow two hours to complete the drive. The Allow at least 3 hours to drive this 26 mile- speed limit on this narrow, winding road is long road. A high-clearance vehicle and good This road is for high-clearance vehicles only, 25 miles per hour. tires are necessary. and may become impassable following rain. Juniper Canyon High-clearance vehicles only; rough, rocky, and slow

Old Maverick Wash boarded sections; impassable after rains

Old Ore High-clearance vehicles only, 4WD recommended

Pine Canyon High-clearance vehicles only; rough, rocky, & slow

River Road East High-clearance vehicles only

River Road West High-clearance vehicles only, 4WD recommended ado r allou allou u

C. B J. J C. B Black Gap 4WD required; infrequently maintained View along Dagger Flat Auto Trail Limestone layers at Ernst Tinaja Historic buildings at Mariscal Mine

10 The Paisano Backcountry e onit . W R

Backcountry Roadside location to park your vehicle and set up a Campsites tent. Backcountry Planning For those who wish to camp in the There are no amenities at any backcountry backcountry without having to backpack, Big Permits Required campsite; please plan to bring everything you Bend offers a number of primitive campsites A permit is required for all backcountry need, including water, shade, chairs, and a along roads, both in the desert and along the camping, river use, and horse use, and trowel to bury human waste. Rio Grande. must be obtained in person at any park visitor center during normal operating Please remember, campfires (all wood fires All roadside sites are along unpaved roads. hours. A permit can be obtained up to 24 or ground fires) are strictly prohibited. Use While some centrally-located sites are hours in advance of the trip. The permit cook stoves with caution. fee is $10 for overnight-use, free for day- accessible to most vehicles, a high clearance use. and/or 4-wheel drive vehicle is necessary to Generators are not allowed in backcountry reach those along the primitive dirt roads. areas, and pets must be kept on a leash within Permits may be written for up to 14 the boundaries of the camp site. consecutive nights in the backcountry. Sites offer excellent views, privacy, an Park staff can assist you with trip planning nch opportunity for solitude, and a cleared gravel based on your needs and current trail

M. He conditions.

Backcountry Water Backpacking for a specific site must be obtained prior to The dry desert air quickly uses up the body’s water reserves. Each hiker should Big Bend National Park has over 200 miles camping. carry and drink a minimum of one gallon of trails in the Chisos Mountains and desert of water for each day they are in the terrain, with options for backpacking within Zone Camping Open zone camping permits are available for backcountry. Spigots for drinking water these beautiful habitats. are available at all visitor centers. Big backpackers who wish to camp outside of Bend is a desert environment; springs and the Chisos Mountains. The park is divided Chisos Mountains tinajas (depressions in rock where water into a number of zones ranging from areas There are 42 campsites along Chisos collects) are rare and often unreliable. Mountains trails, ranging from one to along popular trails to extremely isolated Water should be filtered. Every gallon eight miles from the trailhead. These sites areas. removed from backcountry water sources are designated to help reduce impact and is one less for the wildlife which depend damage to this delicate environment. Camps must be set up at least 1/2 miles from on them. Please carry enough water to roads, out of sight of roads, and at least 100 supply your own needs—don’t risk your life by depending on desert springs. Sites include a cleared area for a tent as well yards away from trails, historic structures, Caching water is recommended for as a bearproof storage box, which must be archaeological sites, dry creek beds, springs, or cliff edge. extended hiking trips in the desert. ado used to store all scented items. A permit r u

J. J Leave No Trace Following the seven basic leave no trace principles helps protect our fragile desert River Running equipment, or you can hire a guide service. environment: The Rio Grande follows the southern Three local companies (see page 12 for • Plan ahead and prepare—a well- boundary of Big Bend National Park for 118 phone numbers) provide guide service, equipment rental, and up-to-date river planned hike is more likely to be a safe miles. In this distance it has carved three hike, and without the need to rely on information and conditions. major canyons—Santa Elena, Mariscal, and precious desert water. Boquillas. The deepest channel of the Rio Grande • Travel and camp on durable surfaces— Seeing the park’s canyons from the middle is the international border between the avoid walking on small plants or of the Rio Grande is both fascinating and United States and Mexico. Passports are biological crusts. gratifying. There are many possibilities, not currently required for river trips, but from half-day floats to extended seven-day stepping onto the Mexican bank of the river, • Dispose of waste properly—bury solid excursions. then returning to the U.S., constitutes an human waste at least six inches deep illegal border crossing. U.S. Border Patrol and 0.25 mile from springs. Pack out all waste paper and trash. Canoes, kayaks, and rafts are allowed in allows for exceptions to be made under river canyons. You may bring your own emergency situations only, i.e.; scouting, • Leave what you find—natural and

ado portaging, or lining.

r culture resources are protected within u

J. J National Parks. Collecting or disturbing features is prohibited.

you must bring your own feed. Stock may be • Minimize fire impacts—fires are only Horseback Riding allowed on overnight river trips. A fire watered in the Rio Grande and at springs not Visitors are welcome to bring and use horses pan is required. Keep all heat sources used for domestic water supply. However, in the park. A stock-use permit is required away from combustible vegetation. (free for day-use), and copies of vaccination be prepared to haul water for you and your documents must be with you. stock, as desert springs are unreliable. All • Respect wildlife—all animals are wild, horse manure and feed remnants must be even if they appear to be tame. Never While horses are not allowed on paved roads removed from the park. feed wildlife or leave scented items or road shoulders, all gravel roads are open unattended. to horses. Cross-country travel is permitted Horses are allowed at several of the park's • Be considerate of other visitors—keep in the park, except in the Chisos Mountains, primitive roadside campsites. Hannold Draw noise levels to a minimum, as sounds where horse use is limited to the Laguna campsite, located 4.8 miles north of Panther can carry for long distances across the Meadow, Southwest Rim, and Blue Creek Junction, has a corral large enough for 8 desert. trails. Horses are not permitted in picnic horses. If you plan to camp with horses in areas or on interpretive trails. the park, you may reserve this campsite up

hoto to 10 weeks in advance. For reservations, call P S 432-477-1158. NP Grazing within the park is not permitted;

The Paisano 11 services Inside the Park Information and Services emergency Call 911 Accessibility Fires Post Offi ce All visitor centers are accessible, as are the Ground fi res and wood fi res are strictly A full-service post offi ce is located at the National Park service Chisos Mountain Lodge restaurant and some prohibited throughout the park. Only gas Panther Junction Headquarters, open M–F, General Information 432-477-2251 motel rooms and campsites. The Window stoves and charcoal contained in a grill may 8am–1pm and 3pm–4pm. A mail drop is also Big Bend Natural History Association View Trail is paved and fairly level. be used. Use caution with any heat source. available at the Chisos Basin Store. Booksales & Seminars 432-477-2236 ATMs Food storage ranger Programs Visitor Centers The Chisos Mountain Lodge and Rio Javelinas or bears can easily open coolers Join a ranger for a guided hike or evening Panther Junction (Hdqtrs) 432-477-1158 Grande Village Store both have ATMs. The and tents. Do not store food or scented items presentation. These free programs are Chisos Basin 432-477-2264 nearest banking facility is located in Study in tents, and never leave coolers, cook stoves, off ered most days of the year. Schedules are Castolon 432-477-2666 Butte, 26 miles west of park headquarters. dishes, trash, or food/water unattended. posted at visitor centers and campgrounds. Persimmon Gap 432-477-2393 Rio Grande Village 432-477-2271 Camp stores Gas stations recycling U.s. Post Offi ce Forever Resorts, LCC, operates stores at Gasoline is available at the Panther Junction Recycling cans are provided in campgrounds Panther Junction 432-477-2238 Castolon, Chisos Basin, Rio Grande Village, and Rio Grande Village stations. Diesel and near stores and visitor centers. Every bit and in the Panther Junction service station. is only available at Panther Junction. Rio of material recycled means one less piece Lodging/restaurant Each off er groceries, camping supplies, and Grande Village station also off ers propane. buried in the park landfi ll. Please recycle! Chisos Mountains Lodge 432-477-2291 souvenirs. Reservations 877-386-4383 Junior ranger showers and Laundry Gasoline service Camping Limits Through activities, games, and puzzles, Public showers and laundry facilities are Panther Junction (diesel) 432-477-2294 Visitors can stay in the park up to 14 kids can have fun learning about the park available at the Rio Grande Village Store, and Rio Grande Village 432-477-2293 consecutive nights, whether in a front and earn a badge or patch, bookmark, and have 24-hour access. Out-of-park facilities or backcountry site, with a limit of 28 certifi cate. A $2 booklet is sold at visitor are available in Study Butte. Camper stores total nights in the park in a calendar year. centers. Rio Grande Village 432-477-2293 Campers can occupy a specifi c site up to 14 swimming Chisos Basin 432-477-2291 total nights in a year. Between February 1 Big Bend is a desert park. Wading in the Rio Castolon 432-477-2222 and April 15, visitors are limited to 14 total Grande is not recommended. Soaking in the nights in the park. 105° Hot Springs is an option. Do not enter services Outside the Park or contaminate backcountry springs. entrance Fees Kennels This listing of local services is a courtesy to our • Single private non-commercial vehicle Alpine Veterinary Clinic Other swimming opportunities include visitors and implies no endorsement by the National $20—valid for 7 days 432-837-3888 Balmorea State Park, the word's largest Park Service or Big Bend National Park. • Single person entry on foot, bicycle, spring-fed pool (a three-hour drive north). Alpine Small Animal Clinic Lodging motorcycle, commercial vehicle, etc. Lajitas $10 per person—valid for 7 days 432-837-5416 Visitor Centers Lajitas Resort 877-525-4827 • Big Bend Annual Pass $40—valid for one Panther Junction, Chisos Basin, and year from month of purchase Lodging Persimmon Gap Visitor Centers are open Marathon • Interagency Annual Pass $80—valid for The Chisos Mountain Lodge, located in the year-round. Rio Grande Village and Castolon Gage Hotel 432-386-4205 one year from month of purchase Chisos Basin, includes 72 rooms, a gift shop, Visitor Centers are open November–April. Marathon Motel 432-386-4241 and dining room. For more information call Eve’s Garden 432-386-4165 All other valid passes will be accepted until 432-477-2291 or 877-386-4383. Wifi /Internet expired including: Senior Pass, Access Pass, Study Butte/Terlingua area Free wireless internet is available at the Golden Age Passport, and Golden Access Big Bend Motor Inn 800-848-2363 Phones Chisos Mountains Lodge and Rio Grande Passport. For commercial rates, please Easter Egg Valley Motel 432-371-2254 Limited cell phone coverage is available in Village Store/RV hook-ups. There are no consult our website: www.nps.gov/bibe. El Dorado Motel 432-371-2111 the park. Public pay phones are located at public computer terminals. Additional permits may be required. Longhorn Ranch Hotel 432-371-2541 visitor centers, campgrounds, and stores. Ten Bits Ranch 866-371-3110

Camping Big Bend Motor Inn 800-848-2363 Weather and Climate Big Bend Ranch State Park 432-424-3327 Big Bend Travel Park 432-371-2250 The old adage "if you don't like the weather, elevation Differences B.J.'s RV Park 432-371-2259 just wait a minute," often holds true for Heath Canyon Ranch 432-376-2235 Elevation diff erences in the park mean Big Bend National Park. While Big Bend Longhorn Ranch 432-371-2541 temperatures can vary considerably between generally has blue skies and warm days, the Stillwell’s Trailer Camp 432-376-2244 mountain, desert, and river. Air temperature weather can change quickly and dramatically. Study Butte RV Park 432-371-2468 changes about fi ve degrees for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain or loss; temperatures Convenience stores/Gasoline Throughout the Year in the high Chisos Mountains can be 20+ Big Bend Motor Inn 800-848-2363 Relative humidity is generally low. Spring degrees cooler than temperatures along the Cottonwood General Store 432-371-3315 and fall are usually warm and pleasant. Rio Grande. Study Butte Store 432-371-2231 Summers are hot, although temperatures Stillwell Store & Station 432-376-2244 vary signifi cantly between the desert fl oor Terlingua Store 432-371-2487 Dress for the Weather and the Chisos Mountains. May and June A wide-brimmed hat, comfortable clothing, Medical services are the hottest months. The rainy season and sturdy walking shoes or boots are Terlingua Fire and EMS 911 extends from mid-June to October with necessary for anyone planning to hike. Big Bend Medical Center 432-837-3447 locally heavy thunderstorms and some fl ash Sunscreen is a must. Hikers must always fl ooding. However, the water recedes rapidly carry plenty of water. One gallon per person Banks and the rainy season can be a delightful time per day is recommended. Bring clothing for Quicksilver Bank/ATM 432-371-2211 to visit the desert. Winters are generally mild, both warm and cool weather, as well as rain J. JUrADO although periods of cold weather (including Local Outfi tters gear, when visiting Big Bend any time of the light snow) are possible; winter visitors must Big Bend River Tours 800-545-4240 year. Frosted sotols in the Chisos Mountains prepare for a variety of conditions. Desert Sports 888-989-6900 Far Flung Outdoor Center 800-839-7238 Panther Junction Averages (mountains temps 5-10° lower, low desert temps 5-10° warmer) Horseback riding Big Bend Stables 800-887-4331 January February March April May June July August september October November December Lajitas Livery 432-424-3238 Max Temp 60.9 66.2 77.4 80.7 88.0 94.2 92.9 91.1 86.4 78.8 68.5 62.2 Terlingua/Study Butte (30 miles west) and Marathon (°F) (70 miles north) offer basic services, including Min Temp 35.0 37.8 45.3 52.3 59.3 65.5 68.3 66.4 61.9 52.7 42.3 36.4 gasoline, restaurants, lodging, and campgrounds. (°F) Alpine, 100 miles northwest of the park, offers the Precip greatest number of services. .46 .34 .31 .70 1.50 1.93 2.09 2.35 2.12 2.27 .70 .57 (inches)

12 The Paisano