Observations of Infragravity Waves
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Observations of Nearshore Infragravity Waves: Seaward and Shoreward Propagating Components A
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 107, NO. C8, 3095, 10.1029/2001JC000970, 2002 Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components A. Sheremet,1 R. T. Guza,2 S. Elgar,3 and T. H. C. Herbers4 Received 14 May 2001; revised 5 December 2001; accepted 20 December 2001; published 6 August 2002. [1] The variation of seaward and shoreward infragravity energy fluxes across the shoaling and surf zones of a gently sloping sandy beach is estimated from field observations and related to forcing by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, and shoreline reflection. Data from collocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed between 1 and 6 m water depth are combined, using the assumption of cross-shore propagation, to decompose the infragravity wave field into shoreward and seaward propagating components. Seaward of the surf zone, shoreward propagating infragravity waves are amplified by nonlinear interactions with groups of sea and swell, and the shoreward infragravity energy flux increases in the onshore direction. In the surf zone, nonlinear phase coupling between infragravity waves and groups of sea and swell decreases, as does the shoreward infragravity energy flux, consistent with the cessation of nonlinear forcing and the increased importance of infragravity wave dissipation. Seaward propagating infragravity waves are not phase coupled to incident wave groups, and their energy levels suggest strong infragravity wave reflection near the shoreline. The cross-shore variation of the seaward energy flux is weaker than that of the shoreward flux, resulting in cross-shore variation of the squared infragravity reflection coefficient (ratio of seaward to shoreward energy flux) between about 0.4 and 1.5. -
Meteotsunami Generation, Amplification and Occurrence in North-West Europe
University of Liverpool Doctoral Thesis Meteotsunami generation, amplification and occurrence in north-west Europe Thesis submitted in accordance with the requirements of the University of Liverpool for the degree of Doctor in Philosophy by David Alan Williams November 2019 ii Declaration of Authorship I declare that this thesis titled “Meteotsunami generation, amplification and occurrence in north-west Europe” and the work presented in it are my own work. The material contained in the thesis has not been presented, nor is currently being presented, either wholly or in part, for any other degree or qualification. Signed Date David A Williams iii iv Meteotsunami generation, amplification and occurrence in north-west Europe David A Williams Abstract Meteotsunamis are atmospherically generated tsunamis with characteristics similar to all other tsunamis, and periods between 2–120 minutes. They are associated with strong currents and may unexpectedly cause large floods. Of highest concern, meteotsunamis have injured and killed people in several locations around the world. To date, a few meteotsunamis have been identified in north-west Europe. This thesis aims to increase the preparedness for meteotsunami occurrences in north-west Europe, by understanding how, when and where meteotsunamis are generated. A summer-time meteotsunami in the English Channel is studied, and its generation is examined through hydrodynamic numerical simulations. Simple representations of the atmospheric system are used, and termed synthetic modelling. The identified meteotsunami was partly generated by an atmospheric system moving at the shallow- water wave speed, a mechanism called Proudman resonance. Wave heights in the English Channel are also sensitive to the tide, because tidal currents change the shallow-water wave speed. -
Destructive Meteotsunamis Along the Eastern Adriatic Coast: Overview
Physics and Chemistry of the Earth 34 (2009) 904–917 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Physics and Chemistry of the Earth journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/pce Destructive meteotsunamis along the eastern Adriatic coast: Overview Ivica Vilibic´ *, Jadranka Šepic´ Institute of Oceanography and Fisheries, Šetalište I. Meštrovic´a 63, 21000 Split, Croatia article info abstract Article history: The paper overviews meteotsunami events documented in the Adriatic Sea in the last several decades, by Received 10 December 2008 using available eyewitness reports, documented literature, and atmospheric sounding and meteorologi- Accepted 24 August 2009 cal reanalysis data available on the web. The source of all documented Adriatic meteotsunamis was Available online 28 August 2009 examined by assessing the underlying synoptic conditions. It is found that travelling atmospheric distur- bances which generate the Adriatic meteotsunamis generally appear under atmospheric conditions doc- Keywords: umented also for the Balearic meteotsunamis (rissagas). These atmospheric disturbances are commonly Meteotsunami generated by a flow over the mountain ridges (Apennines), and keep their energy through the wave-duct Atmospheric disturbance mechanism while propagating over a long distance below the unstable layer in the mid-troposphere. Resonance Long ocean waves However, the Adriatic meteotsunamis may also be generated by a moving convective storm or gravity Adriatic Sea wave system coupled in the wave-CISK (Conditional Instability of the Second Kind) manner, not docu- mented at other world meteotsunami hot spots. The travelling atmospheric disturbance is resonantly pumping the energy through the Proudman resonance over the wide Adriatic shelf, but other resonances (Greenspan, shelf) are also presumably influencing the strength of the meteotsunami waves, especially in the middle Adriatic, full of elongated islands and with a sloping bathymetry. -
A High-Amplitude Atmospheric Inertia–Gravity Wave-Induced
A high-amplitude atmospheric inertia– gravity wave-induced meteotsunami in Lake Michigan Eric J. Anderson & Greg E. Mann Natural Hazards ISSN 0921-030X Nat Hazards DOI 10.1007/s11069-020-04195-2 1 23 Your article is protected by copyright and all rights are held exclusively by This is a U.S. Government work and not under copyright protection in the US; foreign copyright protection may apply. This e-offprint is for personal use only and shall not be self- archived in electronic repositories. If you wish to self-archive your article, please use the accepted manuscript version for posting on your own website. You may further deposit the accepted manuscript version in any repository, provided it is only made publicly available 12 months after official publication or later and provided acknowledgement is given to the original source of publication and a link is inserted to the published article on Springer's website. The link must be accompanied by the following text: "The final publication is available at link.springer.com”. 1 23 Author's personal copy Natural Hazards https://doi.org/10.1007/s11069-020-04195-2 ORIGINAL PAPER A high‑amplitude atmospheric inertia–gravity wave‑induced meteotsunami in Lake Michigan Eric J. Anderson1 · Greg E. Mann2 Received: 1 February 2020 / Accepted: 17 July 2020 © This is a U.S. Government work and not under copyright protection in the US; foreign copyright protection may apply 2020 Abstract On Friday, April 13, 2018, a high-amplitude atmospheric inertia–gravity wave packet with surface pressure perturbations exceeding 10 mbar crossed the lake at a propagation speed that neared the long-wave gravity speed of the lake, likely producing Proudman resonance. -
Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing Stephanie Contardo 1,*, Graham Symonds 2, Laura E. Segura 3, Ryan J. Lowe 4 and Jeff E. Hansen 2 1 CSIRO Oceans and Atmosphere, Crawley 6009, Australia 2 Faculty of Science, School of Earth Sciences, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] (G.S.); jeff[email protected] (J.E.H.) 3 Departamento de Física, Universidad Nacional, Heredia 3000, Costa Rica; [email protected] 4 Faculty of Engineering and Mathematical Sciences, Oceans Graduate School, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 18 September 2019; Accepted: 23 October 2019; Published: 28 October 2019 Abstract: An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind wave conditions. The strong sea 1 breeze cycle at the study site (wind speeds frequently > 10 m s− ) produced diurnal variations in the peak frequency of the incident waves, with wind sea conditions (periods 2 to 8 s) dominating during the peak of the sea breeze and swell (periods 8 to 20 s) dominating during times of low wind. We observed that edge wave modes and their frequency distribution varied with the frequency of the short-wave forcing (swell or wind-sea) and edge waves were more energetic than leaky waves for the duration of the 10-day experiment. -
Baroclinic Instability, Lecture 19
19. Baroclinic Instability In two-dimensional barotropic flow, there is an exact relationship between mass 2 streamfunction ψ and the conserved quantity, vorticity (η)given by η = ∇ ψ.The evolution of the conserved variable η in turn depends only on the spatial distribution of η andonthe flow, whichisd erivable fromψ and thus, by inverting the elliptic relation, from η itself. This strongly constrains the flow evolution and allows one to think about the flow by following η around and inverting its distribution to get the flow. In three-dimensional flow, the vorticity is a vector and is not in general con served. The appropriate conserved variable is the potential vorticity, but this is not in general invertible to find the flow, unless other constraints are provided. One such constraint is geostrophy, and a simple starting point is the set of quasi-geostrophic equations which yield the conserved and invertible quantity qp, the pseudo-potential vorticity. The same dynamical processes that yield stable and unstable Rossby waves in two-dimensional flow are responsible for waves and instability in three-dimensional baroclinic flow, though unlike the barotropic 2-D case, the three-dimensional dy namics depends on at least an approximate balance between the mass and flow fields. 97 Figure 19.1 a. The Eady model Perhaps the simplest example of an instability arising from the interaction of Rossby waves in a baroclinic flow is provided by the Eady Model, named after the British mathematician Eric Eady, who published his results in 1949. The equilibrium flow in Eady’s idealization is illustrated in Figure 19.1. -
Power Spectra of Infragravity Waves in a Deep Ocean Oleg A
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Woods Hole Open Access Server GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH LETTERS, VOL. 40, 2159–2165, doi:10.1002/grl.50418, 2013 Power spectra of infragravity waves in a deep ocean Oleg A. Godin,1,2 Nikolay A. Zabotin,1,3 Anne F. Sheehan,1,4 Zhaohui Yang,4 and John A. Collins5 Received 5 February 2013; revised 24 March 2013; accepted 25 March 2013; published 29 May 2013. [1] Infragravity waves (IGWs) play an important role in [3] Most field observations of IGWs have been made coupling wave processes in the ocean, ice shelves, in relatively shallow water on continental shelves atmosphere, and the solid Earth. Due to the paucity of [Munk, 1949; Herbers et al., 1995; Sheremet et al., 2002]. experimental data, little quantitative information is Deepwater IGWs [Snodgrass et al., 1966; Filloux, 1983; available about power spectra of IGWs away from the Webb et al., 1991] are among the least studied waves in shore. Here we use continuous, yearlong records of the ocean; and their temporal and spatial variability remains pressure at 28 locations on the seafloor off New Zealand’s poorly understood [Dolenc et al., 2005; Uchiyama and South Island to investigate spectral and spatial distribution McWilliams, 2008]. Moreover, little quantitative information of IGW energy. Dimensional analysis of diffuse IGW is available about IGW power spectra [Webb and Crawford, fields reveals universal properties of the power spectra 2010]. This is primarily due to IGW amplitudes on the ocean observed at different water depths and leads to a simple, surface being much smaller than the amplitudes of wind predictive model of the IGW spectra. -
The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes
1 Surveys in Geophysics Archimer November 2011, Volume 40, Issue 6, Pages 1563-1601 https://doi.org/10.1007/s10712-019-09557-5 https://archimer.ifremer.fr https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00509/62046/ The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes Dodet Guillaume 1, *, Melet Angélique 2, Ardhuin Fabrice 6, Bertin Xavier 3, Idier Déborah 4, Almar Rafael 5 1 UMR 6253 LOPSCNRS-Ifremer-IRD-Univiversity of Brest BrestPlouzané, France 2 Mercator OceanRamonville Saint Agne, France 3 UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS - La Rochelle UniversityLa Rochelle, France 4 BRGMOrléans Cédex, France 5 UMR 5566 LEGOSToulouse Cédex 9, France *Corresponding author : Guillaume Dodet, email address : [email protected] Abstract : Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance. -
Transformation of Infragravity Waves During Hurricane Overwash
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Transformation of Infragravity Waves during Hurricane Overwash Katherine Anarde 1,*,† , Jens Figlus 2 , Damien Sous3,4 and Marion Tissier 5 1 Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Rice University, Houston, TX 77005, USA 2 Department of Ocean Engineering, Texas A&M University, Galveston, TX 77554, USA; fi[email protected] 3 Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), Université de Toulon, Aix Marseille Université, CNRS, IRD, 83130 La Garde, France; [email protected] 4 Laboratoire des Sciences de l’Ingénieur Appliquées a la Méchanique et au Génie Electrique—Fédération IPRA, University of Pau & Pays Adour/E2S UPPA, Chaire HPC-Waves, EA4581, 64600 Anglet, France 5 Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section, Delft University of Technology, 2628CN Delft, The Netherlands; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] † Current address: Department of Geological Sciences, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Chapel Hill, NC 27514, USA. Received: 1 July 2020; Accepted: 16 July 2020; Published: 22 July 2020 Abstract: Infragravity (IG) waves are expected to contribute significantly to coastal flooding and sediment transport during hurricane overwash, yet the dynamics of these low-frequency waves during hurricane impact remain poorly documented and understood. This paper utilizes hydrodynamic measurements collected during Hurricane Harvey (2017) across a low-lying barrier-island cut (Texas, U.S.A.) during sea-to-bay directed flow (i.e., overwash). IG waves were observed to propagate across the island for a period of five hours, superimposed on and depth modulated by very-low frequency storm-driven variability in water level (5.6 min to 2.8 h periods). -
The Life Cycle of Baroclinic Eddies in a Storm Track Environment
3498 JOURNAL OF THE ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES VOLUME 57 The Life Cycle of Baroclinic Eddies in a Storm Track Environment ISIDORO ORLANSKI AND BRIAN GROSS Geophysical Fluid Dynamics Laboratory, Princeton, New Jersey (Manuscript received 15 April 1999, in ®nal form 1 March 2000) ABSTRACT The life cycle of baroclinic eddies in a controlled storm track environment has been examined by means of long model integrations on a hemisphere. A time-lagged regression that captures disturbances with large me- ridional velocities has been applied to the meteorological variables. This regressed solution is used to describe the life cycle of the baroclinic eddies. The eddies grow as expected by strong poleward heat ¯uxes at low levels in regions of strong surface baroclinicity at the entrance of the storm track, in a manner similar to that of Charney modes. As the eddies evolve into a nonlinear regime, they grow deeper by ¯uxing energy upward, and the characteristic westward tilt exhibited in the vorticity vanishes by rotating into a meridional tilt, in which the lower-level cyclonic vorticity center moves poleward and the upper-level center moves equatorward. This rather classical picture of baroclinic evolution is radically modi®ed by the simultaneous development of an upper-level eddy downstream of the principal eddy. The results suggest that this eddy is an integral part of a self-sustained system here named as a couplet, such that the upstream principal eddy in its evolution ¯uxes energy to the upper-level downstream eddy, whereas at lower levels the principal eddy receives energy ¯uxes from its downstream companion but grows primarily from baroclinic sources. -
Dtic Eecte Feb 006 1992
AD-A245 718 DTIC EECTE FEB 006 1992 92-'02785 S ~~~~Tlc,30 ~nda tId's~IW Sca1e; its I111 I Universil-y of Bristol, 1991 .92. 203 15 5 This work rclitcs to Departmecnt of the Navy Grant N00014-914J-9038 issued by the Office of Naval Research European Office. The United States has a royalty-frce license throughiout the world in all copyrightable mnaterial contained herein. Nonlinear Water Waves Workshop University of Bristol, 22-25 October 1991 PROCEEDINGS The aim of this workshop was to take advantage of the recent freedom available to scientists in the Soviet Union (now Commonwealth of Independent States) to travel to the West in order to develop both contacts and an awareness of current research between research workers from East and West, most of whom have formerly had little contact. We consider this aim was achieved and are grateful for the substantial financial support from the European Office of the U.S. Office of Naval Research and the European Research Office of the U.S. Army. In addition we thank the home institutions or other fund providers which supported the travel costs of participants and the subsistence of western participants. The support of Bristol University's Department of Mathematics in holding the meeting is greatly appreciated. Scientific Committee: T.B. Benjamin (Oxford) D.H. Peregrine (Vice-chairmanBristol) D.J. Benney (MIT) P.G. Saffman (Caltech) K. Hasselmann (Hamburg) V.I. Shrira (Vice-chairman, Moscow) P.A.E.M. Janssen (KNMI) V.E. Zakharov (Chairman, Moscow) Local Committee: M.J. Cooker D.H. Peregrine J.W. -
Propagation of a Meteotsunami from the Yellow Sea to the Korea Strait in April 2019
atmosphere Article Propagation of a Meteotsunami from the Yellow Sea to the Korea Strait in April 2019 Kyungman Kwon 1, Byoung-Ju Choi 2,* , Sung-Gwan Myoung 2 and Han-Seul Sim 2 1 Jeju Marine Research Center, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology, Jeju 63349, Korea; [email protected] 2 Department of Oceanography, Chonnam National University, Gwangju 61186, Korea; [email protected] (S.-G.M.); [email protected] (H.-S.S.) * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +82-62-530-3471 Abstract: A meteotsunami with a wave height of 0.1–0.9 m and a period of 60 min was observed at tide gauges along the Korea Strait on 7 April 2019, while a train of two to four atmospheric pressure disturbances with disturbance heights of 1.5–3.9 hPa moved eastward from the Yellow Sea to the Korea Strait. Analysis of observational data indicated that isobar lines of the atmospheric pressure disturbances had angles of 75–83◦ counterclockwise due east and propagated with a velocity of 26.5–31.0 m/s. The generation and propagation process of the meteotsunami was investigated using the Regional Ocean Modeling System. The long ocean waves were amplified due to Proudman resonance in the southwestern Yellow Sea, where the water is deeper than 75 m; here, the long ocean waves were refracted toward the coast on the shallow coastal region of the northern Korea Citation: Kwon, K.; Choi, B.-J.; Strait. Refraction and reflection by offshore islands significantly affect the wave heights at the Myoung, S.-G.; Sim, H.-S.