Dtic Eecte Feb 006 1992
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AD-A245 718 DTIC EECTE FEB 006 1992 92-'02785 S ~~~~Tlc,30 ~nda tId's~IW Sca1e; its I111 I Universil-y of Bristol, 1991 .92. 203 15 5 This work rclitcs to Departmecnt of the Navy Grant N00014-914J-9038 issued by the Office of Naval Research European Office. The United States has a royalty-frce license throughiout the world in all copyrightable mnaterial contained herein. Nonlinear Water Waves Workshop University of Bristol, 22-25 October 1991 PROCEEDINGS The aim of this workshop was to take advantage of the recent freedom available to scientists in the Soviet Union (now Commonwealth of Independent States) to travel to the West in order to develop both contacts and an awareness of current research between research workers from East and West, most of whom have formerly had little contact. We consider this aim was achieved and are grateful for the substantial financial support from the European Office of the U.S. Office of Naval Research and the European Research Office of the U.S. Army. In addition we thank the home institutions or other fund providers which supported the travel costs of participants and the subsistence of western participants. The support of Bristol University's Department of Mathematics in holding the meeting is greatly appreciated. Scientific Committee: T.B. Benjamin (Oxford) D.H. Peregrine (Vice-chairmanBristol) D.J. Benney (MIT) P.G. Saffman (Caltech) K. Hasselmann (Hamburg) V.I. Shrira (Vice-chairman, Moscow) P.A.E.M. Janssen (KNMI) V.E. Zakharov (Chairman, Moscow) Local Committee: M.J. Cooker D.H. Peregrine J.W. Dold R. Tong D.V. Evans G. Watson Editor. D.H. Peregrine ISBN 0-86292-390-5 University of Bristol, Department of Mathematics C 1992 CONTENTS Photograph of participants ... iv Participants addresses ... vi Papers presented; the speaker's name is in bold print: Y. Agnon and Alexandru Sheremet Nonlinear shoaling of wide-banded seas .. 1 J.A. Battjes and S. Beji Spectral evolution in waves traveling over a shoal 11 MJ. Cooker and D.H. Peregrine Numerical solutions of violent water-wave impact against a vertical wall 20 M.W. Dingemans and A.C. Radder Use of Hamiltonian techniques in water wave propagation problems 24 M.A. Donelan and Wm.M. Drennan Measurements and numerical calculations of the evolution of nonlinear wave groups ..... 32 R.E. Glazman Wave breaking and other issues in dynamics and statistics of wind waves ... .. 33 N.E. Humg The local properties of ocean surface waves by the phase-time method ... .. 35 P.A.E.M. Janssen Stability of steep gravity waves and the average Lagrangian 40 E. Kartashova Resonant interactions of the water waves with discrete spectra .... ... 43 J. Poitevin and C. Kharif Subharmonic transition of a nonlinear short gravity wave train on deep water .... 54 V.R. Kogan, V.V. Kuznetsov, E.N. Pelinovsky The numerical computation of surface waves .. 64 V.P. Krasitskii Canonical transformations and reduced equations in the Hamiltonian theory of weakly nonlinear surface waves .. 66 V.A. Dulov and V.N. Kudryavtv Wave breaking and non-uniformities of atmosphere and ocean .. 75 R.S. Mackay A Hamiltonian formulation for uniformly travelling water waves 83 C.C. Mei Nonlinear interaction of short and long gravity waves 93 E.N. Peinovsky Nonlinear dynamics of internal waves in the ocean.. 96 D.H. Peregine Nonlinear effects in water-wave focussing .... 99 D.H. Pegrine Singularities in two-dimensional water waves .. 101 if i B. Chapron and A. Ramamonjiarisoa Observations of the evolution of nonlinear deep-water gravity wave trains. ... .. 103 N.N. Romanova On the construction of normal variables for waves in unstable n-layered shear flow ...... P.G. Saffnmn 113 Effect of shear layer profiles on wind wave generation .. 118 N. Scheffner, Joe Hammack and Harvey Segur Applications of Genus 2 solutions of the Kadomtsev- Petviashvili equation .... 121 V.L Shrira Water wave nonlinear interactions owing to drift current. Directional spectra formation .... 128 Y. P. Soloviev Field observation of nonlinear effects and directional spectra of wind waves ...... 134 Y.P. Soloviev Modulation of short surface wind waves by internal waves .. 136 M. Stiassnie The multifractal structure of the ocean surface .... 140 M-Y. Su Some recent laboratory and field measurements of surface breaking waves ..... 148 H.H.Szo Elucidation of ocean waves by nonlhnear soliton wavelet dynamics .... 157 E.F.Thompson and MJ. Briggs Low frequency nearshore motions induced by wind waves ,. 158 R.P. Tong and D.H. Peregrine The generation of surface waves by a free vortex .... 164 L Tsimring and Y. Troitskaya Wave generation by gusty wind: a kinetic theory .... 172 M.P. Tulin and .. Li Three-dimensional side-band wave systems and their associated evolution problems ...... 174 A.G.Voronovich The effect of shortening of waves on random currents .. 183 G. Watson and D H. Peregrine Low frequency waves in the surf zone ...... 189 EX Yakubovich Stationary waves on the surface of a heavy liquid.... 200 V.E.Zakhmov Direct and inverse cascade in the theory of water wave turbulence .. ...... 202 V.E. Zaklarov On the formation of singularities on the free surface of ideal fluid ._ 206 NTIS CRAm DTIC TAB U"announce, Q Justificat ri .............. Av~akAvt #,,j . _..v.e .... ... U I cME ROMA NO VA KUDRYAVTSEV AGNON W~ATSON DUGAN GLAZMA ri SHI. SINGERo C S0OLVIEV SAFFMAN THOMPSON .41 J ENO R 0. TSIMRING SCHEFFNER RAMAMO IA ISOA ZAKHAROV fA S.- JANSSEN4IW LEE- APT TULIN 0 SU DIGEMAC YAKUBOVIC 40 CL '4- PEREGRINE0 C. 0 BARNES C szu 41)0 *0 I COOKER PARTICIPANTS Prof Y. Agnon Dr M.W. Dingemans Dept. of Civil Engng. Technion Delft Hydraulics P 0 Box Haifa 152 8300 AS Emmeloord 32000, Israel THE NETHERLANDS Mr B.C. Barber Dr J.W. Dold Space Dept, Defence Res. Agency School of Mathematics RAE Farnborough University Hants GU14 6T0 Walk Bristol BS8 1TW ENGLAND ENGLAND Mr T. Barnes Dr Dept. of Mathematics M.A. Donelan University Research Applics. Branch of Bristol National Bristol Water Resource Inst. BS8 1TW POBox 5050 ENGLAND Burlington Ontario L7R 4A6 CANADA Prof J.A. Battjes Civil Engineering Dept Prof. Delft P.G. Drazin University of Technology School of Mathematics P 0 Box 5048, 2600 GA Delft THE NETHERLANDS University Walk Bristol BS8 ITW ENGLAND Prof M. Berry Physics Dr J.P. Dugan Laboratory ONR Tyndall Avenue European Ofrice 223 Old Marylebone Road Bristol BS8 ITL London NWI 5TH ENGLAND ENGLAND Dr M.J. Cooker Prof. D.V. School of Evans Mathematics School of Mathematics University Walk University Walk Bristol BS8 1TW Bristol BS8 lT ENGLAND ENGLAND .V. Dr V. Galaktionov Dr C. Kharif Keldysh Inst.of Appl. Inst.de Mech.Stat.d'la Mathematics Turbulence Miusskaya Sq . 4 Lab.de Luminy, Campus Univ.903 125047 Moscow 13288 Marseille Cedex 9 RUSSIA FRANCE Dr R. Glazman Jet Propulsion Lab. Dr V. Krasitskii Mailstop 300-323 P.P.Shirshov Inst of Oceanology 4800 Oak Grove Drive USSR Acad. of Sciences Pasadena. CA 91109 Krasikova 23 USA Moscow 177218 RUSSIA Mr R. Gwynllyw School of Mathematics Dr V. Kogan University Walk Inst of Appl.Phys. Bristol BS8 ITW USSR Acad. of Sciences ENGLAND 46 Uljanov Street 603600 Nizhny Novgorod RUSSIA Dr N.E. Huang Lab. for Oceans, Code 971 Goddard Space Flight Center Dr V. Kudryavtsev Greenbelt, MD 20771 Marine Hydrophys. Inst USA UKR Acad. of Science 26 Lenin Str. Sebastopol 335000 UKRAINE Dr P.A.E.M Janssen KNMI, Postbus 201 3730 Ae de Bilt Dr I.P. Lee-Bapty THE NETHERLANDS Space Dept., Q134 Bldg. RAE Farnborough Rants GUI4 6LN ENGLAND L.Cdr L Jeadro ONR Europe 223 Old Marylebone Road Dr R.S.Mackay London NVI 5TH Inst. of Mathematics Univ. of Warwick Coventry CV4 7AL ENGLAND Dr E. Kartashova P.P.Shirshov Inst of Oceanology USSR Acad. of Sciences Prof.C.C. Mei Krasikova 23 Dept.Civil.Engng.,48-413 Moscow 177218 M.I.T. RUSSIA Cambridge, Mass 02139 USA VII Dr E. Pelinovsky Dr V.1. Shrira Inst of Appl.Phys. Shirshov Inst.Oceanology USSR Acad. of Sciences Krasikova 23 46 Uljanov Street Moscow 117218 603600 Nizhny Novgorod RUSSIA RUSSIA Dr Y. Soloviev Marine Hydrophys. Inst UHR Acad. of Science Prof. D.H. Peregrine 26 Lenin Str. School of Mathematics Sebastopol 335000 University Walk UKRAINE Bristol BS8 ITW ENGLAND Dr. M. Stiassnie Civil Engineering Dept The Technion Dr A. Ramamonjiarisoa Haifa 32000 Inst.de Mech.Stat.d'la Turbulence ISRAEL Lab. de Luminy Campus Univ. 903 13288 Marseille Cedex 9 FRANCE Dr M.-Y. Su Code 331, Naval Ocean RkD Act. Stennis Space Center Dr N. Romanova Mississippi 39529-5005 Inst. for Atmos. Phys. USA Academy of Sciences Pyzhevsky 3 Moscow 109017 RUSSIA Dr H.H. Szu Information Sci. Group Leader Code R44 Prof. P.G. Saffman Naval Surface Warfare Center 217-50 Appl.Math. Silver Spring, MD 20903-5000 California Inst. Technology USA Pasadena, CA 91125 USA Dr E.F. Thompson Coastal Engng.Res.Center US Army, Engng.Wat.Exp.Station Dr N. Scheffner 3909 Halls Ferry Road US Army, Engng.Wat.Exp.Station Vicksburg, Miss. 39180-6199 Coastal Engng.Res.Center USA 3909 Halls Ferry Road Vicksburg, Miss.39180-6199 USA Mr R. Tong School of Mathematics University Walk Dr N. Shlesinger Bristol BS8 ITW Director, Physics ENGLAND Office Naval Research 800 N Quincy St Arlington, VA 22217 USA vii -At MM. Topliss School of Mathematics University Walk Bristol BS8 ITW ENGLAND Dr L.Ch. Tsimring Inst of Appl.Phys. USSR Acad. of Sciences 46 Ulyanov Str 603600 Nizhny Novgorod RUSSIA Prof M.P. Tulin Ocean Engng. Lab. University of California Santa Barbara, CA 93106 USA Dr A.G. Voronovich P.P-Shirshov Inst of Oceanology USSR Acad.