SAINT-ÉMILION 40 WINES Winemakers Interviews & Wine Reviews
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Winter 2019/2020 - International edition SELEC AS TIO M N - X S É L L E Ë C O T I N O N E D Focus on TO DRINK THIS CHRISTMAS SAINT-ÉMILION 40 WINES Winemakers interviews & wine reviews Special tasting CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-BARton Discover Bourgogne, Saint-Emilion, Fronsac, Sauternes, Côtes de Gascogne, Floc de Gascogne, Jura, Alsace, Austria, Tuscany, Piemonte, Venezia, Armagnac… milion vineyards at sunrise © Jean-Bernard Nadeau at sunrise © Jean-Bernard milion vineyards E 800 WINE & SPIRITS REVIEWS Saint- Don’t miss our interviews and articles by Erika Montovan and Joanie Metivier Gascony’sand winesspirits VISUEL VERTDEVIN DEC 2019_Opmaak 1 06/12/2019 10:16 Pagina 1 WWW.VIGNOBLESK.COM 1, lieu-dit Cassevert, 33 330 Saint-Christophe des Bardes - FRANCE- Tel : +33 5 57 24 77 15 - [email protected] L’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à consommer avec modération Alcohol abuse is dangerous for health, consume with moderation VISUEL VERTDEVIN DEC 2019_Opmaak 1 06/12/2019 10:16 Pagina 1 It is with great pleasure that I invite you to discover this 2019/2020 winter edition of VERTDEVIN magazine. For this issue I chose to explore and taste wines from different parts of France, Austria and Italy. This magazine is the result of exhilarating trips, amazing tastings, discoveries and fabulous meetings! So in the first part of the magazine, the interview session-you Brunnbauer Photo Johannes will meet great winemakers from Gascony, Bordeaux and Languedoc. After that Joanie Metivier, a talented Canadian sommelier and journalist well known thanks to her blog and Instagram will introduce you Ramos Pinto (p. 16-17) and speak about the Fortified side of Roussillon (p.18). In pages 75-76 and 99-100 you’ll also be able to read her wine reviews for Vertdevin. Erika Mantovan, a talented Italian journalist and sommelier will take you to Alta Langa and to discover the Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie. Discover these articles on pages 19 and 21. In this Winter magazine we also will suggest to you a selection of 40 selected Wines & Spirits to enjoy during your Christmas holidays. In the third part you will be able to discover a vertical tasting of Château Léoville Barton. Following that the “Winemaker’s voice” part will be waiting for you. Following that, in the last part, you will have your taste buds tickled while finding more than 800 wine and spirits reviews about: Saint-Emilion, Fronsac, Pessac-Léognan, White Bourgogne wines, Champagne, Alsace, Jura, Floc de Gascogne, Armagnac, Austrian white wines, Tuscan wines (Brunello, Bolgherie…), Piemonte wines, Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, Piemonte wines, Roussillon and Armagnac. Enjoy the reading, savor the tastings and read with delicacy the Wine Buying guide. Jonathan Choukroun Chicheportiche registration We are pleased to invite you to the “Selection by and more Vertdevin” tasting that will take place in PARIS, information during VINEXPO Paris and WINEParis. During this event you will have the opportunity to discover 30 WWW.VIGNOBLESK.COM selected winemakers from France, Italy, Portugal… and to taste their great wines! 1, lieu-dit Cassevert, 33 330 Saint-Christophe des Bardes - FRANCE- Tel : +33 5 57 24 77 15 - [email protected] Save the date : Tuesday, February 11th 2020 (from 7pm to 9pm) at Hôtel Mercure Paris Vaugirard (Porte de Versailles) http://bit.ly/Vertdevin2020 L’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé, à consommer avec modération Alcohol abuse is dangerous for health, consume with moderation CHÂTEAU CROIX DE LABRIE 8 bis lieu dit Peymouton Sud, 33330 Saint-Christophe des Bardes WWW.CHATEAU-CROIX-DE-LABRIE.FR L’ABUS D’ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ . A CONSOMMER AVEC MODÉ RATION. Winter 2019-2020 - International edition Interviews Special tasting Saint-Émilion Château Léoville-Barton ................... 31 Clos des Jacobins ........................ .5 Château Figeac .......................... .6 Clos Dubreuil ........................... .7 Winemaker’s Voice ........ 32-33 Pessac-Léognan Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion .............. 9 Fronsac Wine & Spirits reviews Château Moulin Haut-Laroque .............. 11 Bordeaux Sauternes ........................... 35-37 Gascony Saint-Émilion Grand Cru ................ 38-43 Domaine Entras ......................... 12 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé ........... 44-49 Domaine de Maouhum ................... .13 Saint-Émilion ........................... 49 Montagne Saint-Émilion ................ 50-51 Languedoc Lussac Saint-Émilion ..................... 51 Pessac-Léognan ....................... 52-55 Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles ............ 14-15 Fronsac & Canon-Fronsac ............... 56-60 Côtes-de-Bordeaux ...................... 61 Bourgogne Interview and article Red Bourgogne ....................... 62-64 by Joanie Metivier White Bourgogne ..................... 65-73 Ramos Pinto ......................... 16-17 The fortified side of Roussillon ............. 18 Champagne ........................... 74 Rousillon ........................... 75-76 Alsace ............................. 77-78 Jura ............................... 78-80 Articles Italy by Erika Mantovan Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC ........... 81-88 Alta Langa ............................. 19 Bolgheri ............................ 89-90 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie ................. 21 Tuscany ............................ 90-94 Piemont ............................ 95-99 Chile ............................. .99-100 Christmas selection Austria. .102-113 A buying guide for winter holidays ........ 23-29 Gascony Côtes-de-Gascogne .................. .114-115 Floc de Gascogne ...................... 116 3 Armagnac ........................ .117-119 Interview Saint-Émilion CLOS DES JACOBINS Meeting with one of the most dynamic “vigneron” couple of Saint-Emilion ! los des Jacobins is a family owned and operated property there was a real sympathy for this name. When we arrived in Bordeaux located on the calcareous hillside of Saint-Emilion and we worked during the week in Leognan but every weekend we went to vi- Craised to the rank of Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé since sit the vineyards of Gironde. When we arrived in Saint-Emilion we could the origins in 1954. The property covers 8.5 hectares composed not remain indifferent… It is a village that has 2000 years of history ! of clay-limestone soils, scree and some calcareous sand on the Beyond the tasting of the wines when we arrived here we were seized surface (from coastal erosion). The vineyard is divided into 24 by this energy that emerges from the village and the vineyards. When plots and planted with 80% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% after a few years of experience in the Pessac-Léognan area we felt ready Cabernet Sauvignon. to manage a vineyard we turned exclusively (and naturally) to Saint- Emilion. Formerly owned by the Cordier family, it was acquired in 2005 by the Decoster family (Magali Where do the Châteaux names come from ? & Thibaut Decoster). The property being closely T.d.C.: The name of ‘Clos des Jacobins’ comes linked with the Chateau La Commanderie, also from the Jacobins monks of Saint-Emilion. The for sale, both were purchased simultaneous- name was not affiliated with the convent of the ly. The latter was recently classified Grand Cru Jacobins. In the early 20th century, the owner Classé in 2012. The vineyard covers 3.7 hec- sold the ”Couvent part” (convent) but keeping the tares. Those that are south facing are planted in Clos des Jacobins. The name was the result of an 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. agreement with the purchaser of the Couvent. Latter, in 2017, they also acquired the Château For the ‘Commanderie’ there is a building in de Candale, Château Roc de Candale and their Saint-Emilion which is called commanderie. Be- restaurant L’Atelier de Candale (in full restora- cause before being a name it was an architectu- tion by the way). A place that I highly recom- ral style. It seems to me that initially a ‘comman- mend you as much for its panoramic view of the vineyard as for the derie’ was the first line of defense of a kingdom. We often find them quality and generosity of its menu. in villages and see that our region has long been the scene of fighting Let’s go together to meet this young, dynamic and passionate couple between the kingdom of France and the crown of England following of winemakers. the marriage of Aliénor d’Aquitaine with the English king… Why did you decide to What makes it possible to become a winemaker? identify the wines of Clos Thibaut de Coster: From an des Jacobins and Châ- early age I always wanted teau La Commanderie ? to be a farmer. I was born T.d.C.: For Clos des Jaco- in Limoges where there are bins wines, it’s the power many cattle. I need to touch, that comes from our clay- to see things grow. I’m limestone Saint-Emilion more on the manual side soils, but with a fruit, than spiritual side. When I maturity / crunchy aspect was 15 years old I conside- of the fruit that is even red undertaking studied in more emphasized at Clos agriculture for my future des Jacobins thanks to but it was not a very pro- its exposure West facing mising sector. It was at that South. This situation in- age I started to discover creases its maturity capa- wine with meals, cuisine, city because the soil is very all shared with friends and hot on the surface. But at there I told myself that rai- the same time, thanks to sing cows is certainly a the chalky clay, the vines dream but it is complica- don’t suffer from heat be- ted… Growing wheat is the cause the soil remains wet same but wine is a wonderful world, attractive, progressive and so I and cool. Our type of clay-limestone also brings us a very special finesse thought why not work in this sector? Alas I didn’t have a family or per- when most Saint-Emilion soils mainly offer big structures. sonal attachment in the sector so I dropped it. I finally left for studies Regarding Château La Commanderie, I would say that for me it is one of business and marketing intended to open to me doors to all the sec- of the most Pomerol wines of Saint-Emilion.