Building Clinker Ilur from a Kit Sail and Oar Dinghy 4.44 M Long

Building clinker Ilur from a kit Sail and oar dinghy 4.44 m long

Customer name:

Plan number: ILR -

© François Vivier – March 2019 7, avenue des Courtils – 44380 Pornichet – France - tel: 33 (0)6 74 54 18 60 E-mail : [email protected] – www.vivierboats.com François Vivier Architecte Naval – SARL au capital de 8 000 € - Siren : 451 456 669 RCS Saint Nazaire March 2019 Building Ilur clinker kit Page 2/24

1. List of documents

1.1. The present manual

1.2. Appendices

Num Rev Titre Date Pages 1K 6 Timber list 5 March 2019 3 2K 4 Plywood panels list 21 April 2014 13 4K 2 Fittings list 21 April 2014 4

1.3. “Wooden boatbuilding” sheets (mainly in French) These documents are extracts from my book on wooden boat construction, “Construction bois les techniques mod- ernes” (in French). Though only a few are presently translated, equivalent information in English is available from other sources. For example, the websites of epoxy suppliers give comprehensive information in regard to saturation, gluing, filleting, and sheathing.

Numb Rev Title Date Pages 05 0 Imprégnation époxy 25 sept. 03 2 06 0 Collages et joints congés 14 octobre 03 2 07 0 Stratification sur bois 15 novembre 03 4 08 0 Imprégnation et collage : solutions par temps froid 12 novembre 03 3 12 1 Rivets à bateaux 15 novembre 03 2 16 0 Pièces en lamellé-collé 30 décembre 03 4 43 0 Tenue provisoire des clins 6 novembre 03 1 44 2 Lapstrake fitting 4. décembre 2006 3 71 0 Bancs et planchers 7 octobre 03 1 72 1 Gouvernail à safran relevable 2 novembre 2009 2 81 0 Mâts et espars ronds 17 octobre 03 3 82 0 Le gréement au tiers ou de misainier 10 octobre 03 3 91 0 Peintures et vernis 18 novembre 03 3

1.4. Plan (A2 size)

Num Rev Titre Scale Date 21K 4 Longitudinal structure standing / balanced lug version 1/10 21 April 2014 24K 1 Longitudinal structure lug sloop version 1/10 21 April 2014

1.5. Plans (A3 size booklet)

Num Rev Titre Scale Date 01 0 Lines plan (outside planking) 1/12 1 December 03 22K 3 Aft transversal structure 1/10 14 October 2012 23K 3 Fore transversal structure 1/10 14 October 2012 26K 4 Rudder 1/10 21 April 2014 31 1 Sail plan "misainier" rig or standing lug 1/30 28. oct. 2005 32 2 Sail plan Lug sloop rig 1/30 14 October 2012 33 1 Sloop rig converted into balance lug 1/30 14 October 2012 34 0 Sail mark 1/1 30. janv. 2004 35 2 Mast and spars (all rig version) 1/20 14 October 2012 36 0 3 meters rowing oars 1/10 31. janv. 2004 37 0 2.9 m sculling oar 1/10 30. oct. 2005 41 0 Sail plan balanced lug rig 1/30 28. oct. 2005 43 1 Sail plan lug yawl rig 1/30 21. avr. 2014

This document is the property of François Vivier Architecte Naval. It shall not be copied, transmitted to any other person, nor published as a whole or partly, without the written consent of the architect. March 2019 Building Ilur clinker kit Page 3/24

44 1 Aft arrangement for yawl rig 1/10 21. avr. 2014 51 1 Bowsprit iron 1/1 13 October 2012

2. Main characteristics

2.1. Dimensions

Hull length 4.44 m Waterline length 4.10 m Breadth 1.70 m Depth 0.68 m Draught (centreboard up) 0.25 m Draught (centreboard down) 0.86 m ISO Light weight (clinker) 245 kg ISO Light weight (strip planking) 300 kg Sail area standing lug 12.2 m² Sail area lug yawl 12.4 m² Sail area sloop 14 m²

Note: the ISO light weight includes the full rig (standing lug option), anchoring line and basic mooring equipment. This weight may vary according to plywood and timber choice. Thus, it is recommended to weight the boat prior ordering the trailer. Add 11 kg for the sloop version. It is possible to save 10 kg with a reduced thickness of floorboards (see appendix 1).

2.2. Boat presentation Ilur was designed as a family day sailing boat. It can be used for fishing and even coastal cruising. Two Ilur have been to Ile of Sein, at the extreme West of France, one of the worst place to go with tremendous tides and sea conditions. However, do not consider this as an invitation to go there ! Ilur has good seakeeping ability, but still in the sail and oar spirit. Its superior quality makes Ilur my best-seller plan (with nearly thousand copies sold). It has been built in many places, from the very heart of Alps, to Pacific islands! If you have to choose the best boat for your intended use, just notice than Ilur is not an easygoing rowing boat compared to others of my sail and oar designs. She is mainly intended for sail, oars being used when wind is falling or to reach some narrow inlets. Ilur was designed at first with the simple standing lug sail in the Breton style (said “misainier” rig). A lug sloop rig is now proposed and is a valuable option. A balanced lug rig (lug sail with boom) is an other option, interesting for river or single-handed sailing.

2.3. Ilur clinker version built from a kit This set of documents describes a new version of Ilur, said clinker kit, which is clinker built and available only as a CNC (numerically controlled machine) cut plywood kit. Main changes and improvements are as follows: ✔ Construction from a refined plywood kit allowing a dramatic decrease of the building time. Laminated or steam bent frames are replaced by a few plywood frames, ✔ Locker afterwards, ✔ New pivoting centreboard and rudder, ✔ Oar stowage above or under floorboards, ✔ Building manual with 3D sketches, ✔ Choice between 3 possible rigs. Ilur has been improved many times from the first design in 1988. So be careful when looking at other Ilur and pictures and do not copy without checking it is appropriate.

2.4. Classic Ilur Apart from the new clinker kit Ilur, the previous Ilur design, now named “classic Ilur”, is still available. Classic Ilur: ✔ Is built either strip planked or plywood clinker ✔ Has laminated or steam bent frames giving a very traditional and beautiful look. ✔ Is built from plan package only (different from the Ilur clinker kit). ✔ Full size patterns on mylar (polyester sheet) are available as an option.

2.5. Compliance to regulations

WARNING Ilur is a boat that may capsize. It is important to be always vigilant at the helm and always ready to release the sheets. Carry an amount of sail appropriate for the wind and the sea state, particularly if no external assistance is available. Moreover, it is necessary to be ready beforehand in the event of a capsize, most particularly in regard to righting the boat, calling for help, and ensuring the survival of the crew.

Ilur is designed in compliance with the requirements of the European Recreative Craft Directive 1994/25/CE amended 2003/44/CE. It is designed to sail in the following categories: ✔ In category C, with a maximum of 3 persons on board (maximum loading 275 kg) ✔ In category D, with a maximum of 5 persons on board (maximum loading 425 kg) The minimum crew is one person, as the boat may be right up by one person only in calm sea conditions. It is recommended to be at least two on board when sailing in poor wind and sea conditions or away from any pos - sible assistance. Attention : it is recommended to keep on board a piece of cloth to be inserted into centreboard case in order to avoid water entry after capsize and ease bailing out. Ilur may receive a motor of maximum power 4.4 kW / 6 hp (long of short shaft). A 2 to 3 hp motor is preferable, being lighter and easier to handle.

The definition of these categories is pointed out below: Category C (Inshore): designed for trips in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers where conditions up to, and including, wind force 6 and significant wave heights up to, and including, 2 m may be experi - enced. Category D (Sheltered waters): designed for voyages in close coastal waters, small bays, lakes, rivers and canals where conditions up to and including wind force 4 and maximum wave heights up to and including 0,3 m may be experienced. NOTE: The significant wave height is the mean height of the highest one third of the waves, which approxim- ately corresponds to the wave height estimated by an experienced observer. Some waves will be double this height.

3. Right of use and general information

3.1. Right of use The purchase of plans gives the right to build one unit, by an amateur builder. They can be sold only by the naval architect (François Vivier) or authorised representatives. Plans, comprising the present manual and all the attached documents listed on page 2, are the property of the architect. Except for the needs of construction, the documents may not be reproduced, transmitted to a third party, nor published entirely or partly, without written authorization from the architect.

3.2. Plan number The plan number, registered on the front page of this manual, is specific to the purchaser and must be recalled in any correspondence with the architect or kit seller. Please inform the architect when the boat is first launched, and of change of address or ownership while building.

3.3. Liability of the builder Ilur was designed with care and in full compliance with the International standards (ISO) and the European regulations. However, each boat is built under the whole responsibility of its builder, and sails under the whole responsibility of its crew. Both the architect and the kit seller decline any liability in regard to people, legal entit- ies, and property resulting from construction and/or from use of a boat built from the plans.

1.1. Respect of the weights, scantlings, materials, and buoyancy

Amateur builders should be careful to note the necessity of respecting the plans and specifications, especially scantlings and choice of materials, so that the boat does not become too heavy. Such extra weight would make it less seaworthy, more difficult to launch and retrieve, and would involve a risk of overloading the road trailer. Conversely, it is strongly dis-advised to reduce scantlings or to use materials of lower quality. Respect- ing the specifications concerning volumes of buoyancy is an essential condition for compliance with EC regulations. 3.4. E-mail assistance If you encounter difficulties during construction, or if you have suggestions to make, please feel free to contact the architect (preferably by e-mail or phone). Specify the number and the date of the plan (see front page). We will answer your questions and, if necessary, update the plans to benefit other builders.

François Vivier Architecte Naval 7, avenue des Courtils – 44380 Pornichet - France tel: 33 (0)6 74 54 18 60 e-mail : [email protected] www.vivierboats.com

Note: I am always happy to receive pictures and news about the boats I have drawn !

3.5. Supplies, kit The NC cut plywood kit can be acquired from approved representatives (see my web site). Some of them are also able to supply other materials: sawn timber, fittings, sails, outboard motor, trailer. I have observed that to buy a kit allows the amateur builder to avoid bad surprises, un-compliant purchases, high delivery costs and generally is a cheaper and easier way that to try to source all different materials and equipments.

4. Choice of construction method and rig

Ilur is proposed with 4 rig versions, all with a lug sail. Note that the lug sail is always rigged on the same side of mast and is not changed when tacking. This is why such sail is said “standing lug”. When the yard is highly peaked, as on Ilur, there is very little performance loss when the sail is on the wind side of the mast. The following table gives the advantages (as well as drawbacks) of each ones:

Standing lug or Sloop lug rig Balanced lug Lug yawl “misainier” Plan 31 Plan 32 Plan 41 Plan 43 It is a typical traditional With both a mainsail Also yacht inspired. A different and beauti- rig of South Brittany for and a jib, this rig is more I have highlighted this ful look, also used on small fishing boats. yacht like than work characteristics with a some traditional boats. boat. cross cut sail. Very simple and cheap: This rig is more familiar A little less simple than The mizzen may be one halyard, one sheet. for those used to mod- the standing lug sail, kept hoisted when The sail is loose footed, ern rigs. The jib lets the this rig is suited to in- rowing, helping to so your head is always crew, and in particular land water for his abil- maintain the boat safe. children, to take part to ity to tack and gibe. course and reducing boat handling. It is also a good choice rolling at sea. for single handling sailing. Contrarily to common Good multi-purpose rig. More efficient than the The mainsail has a feel, it is an efficient rig, There is no need of a standing lug, it does better aspect ratio and including to windward. pole as the sail is not require a pole then gives excellent The only drawback is the boomed. when reaching... but windward perform- sail area limitation, then There is two mast steps take care of the boom ances. giving limited speed in positions, giving the and your head! The main sheet thumb light winds. But in that ability to sail with the lug cleats are at helms- case, the oars are the only, for example is you man hand, then tack- best! are alone. ing is easier (as there When reaching, it is re- is no need to touch the commended to use a mizzen sheet). pole to unfold the sail and avoid rolling. It is easy to low the mast With this rig, Ilur is more Almost as simple as Of course the mizzen when pulling the oars. As a sail boat than a “sail the standing lug, it is add 3 spars and addi- a rule, the mast represent and oars” as it is less also convenient for tional ropes on board, as much drag to wind easy to lower the mast “sail and oar” use. which may be leaved than the hull. That is why for rowing. ashore when sailing in on a sail and oar boat, it Pulling oars may be re- heavy wind. is so important to low the placed by a single scull mast when rowing. oar.

4.1. Building time, tools It is difficult to give an estimate of the time of construction, so much this one varies from one builder to another, according to the experience possibly gained during former constructions. The tools you have at disposal and you are able to master influence the working time. Some boats are true works of art, others are rather of simple and rustic style. The cutting up of timber takes also time which could be sub-contracted or simply bought from the plywood kit seller. The purchase of a light combined planer is not justified for this clinker version which largely calls upon plywood. For the remainder, only basic portable tools are necessary: drill, screw driver, jigsaw, electric plane (especially for mast and spars), without forgetting a good quantity of screw clamps. The clinker version is faster to build than the strip planked one. With the new kit of Ilur clinker kit, the minimum building time is about 300 hours. Construction time may be much more for a first construction project and if you want a high quality finish. These times are complete, including rig, fitting and painting. To build yourself such a boat supposes that you are looking mainly for the satisfaction of a beautiful work, without being to much wor- ried by time constraint.

5. Chronological description of the construction

Before starting the construction, the general process of which is presented in the following pages, it is important to read the whole manual and plans for a good overall comprehension. That remains true at all stages. A good preparation will avoid errors, sometimes not easily retrievable, and will save time. The construction of Ilur is described in a chronological way. At each paragraph, we show on the left the applicable drawings, appendices, wooden boat-building sheets.

5.1. Strongback box girder Appendix 2K This box gives a stiff support to erect the boat structure, even if the ground is not flat. In addition the box supports allow to incline the hull in order to ease the planking process. It may be better to lay down this girder first and to use it as a table to assemble the hull strakes.

Tenons and mortices allow to assemble the girder. Use Pozidriv or similar screws to fasten the girder parts. There is notches at fore end of boats as shown on the left side of sketch.

The finished girder is laid over the supports. Use the second notch aft and the third one forward.

5.2. Gluing trims on plywood frames Appendix 2K For both aesthetic and durability purpose, the visible edges of plywood, mainly in 18 mm thickness, are protected by 3 mm thick trims. The following parts are concerned: frames 5.5 and 7, mast part- Plans 22 & 23K ner knees:

5.3. Bulkhead preparation Plans 22 & 23K Bulkheads and frames, as station moulds, are not bevelled. The small space between hull planking and bulkhead (mainly at boat ends) will be filled in with epoxy fillet. Exception : Bulkhead 9 (fore end) is bevelled to half thickness to avoid using too much epoxy putty. It is easier to glue at this step the various battens which are used as supports to floorboards or seats. This may be done only when these battens do not interfere with the bulkheads supports. We have coloured in red on plans 22/23 the battens which may be glued in advance. On bulkhead 9, the batten is laid down full width to give stiffness when planking the hull. The centreline part will be cut out later.

5.4. Transom prefabrication The transom is made of 18 mm plywood. The upper part is made of timber in order to hide the plywood edge, including into the scull notch. A doubler in 9 mm plywood is glued inside and hold in place the planking of side seats and lazaret hatch. Alignment holes allow to glue the doubler in proper position. There is a rabbet into the timber transom head for better gluing:

A pattern in ordinary plywood gives the outline of the timber transom head and is included into the kit. An other pattern, to be laid over the outside face of transom, aligned with the upper edge, is used to mark the transom bevel and then to plane it out (the sketches show the transom already bevelled):

The transom (18 mm plywood part) has 4 mortices to allow precise positioning to the boat structure.

5.5. Stem prefabrication Plan 21K/24K The stem is made of three plywood layers: 18 + 9 +18 mm. Holes are cut to insert temporary bolts avoiding slippage when gluing.

The hole in stem head will be bored at a larger diameter to fit a stem belay pin, made of 14 mm metal rod, a traditional device in Brittany. A trim is glued on the aft face of stem head to cover the plywood edges. The centreline stem layer makes an eye for the tack line block. At this step, use the stem as a mould to laminate the false-stem. The false stem is kept apart and will be fitted at a later stage. The sketch shows also the removable mast step screwed glued into two side wooden chocks. The mast step(s) is(are) to be located according to the chosen rig (see plans 21K or 24K). In the case of the sloop rig, there is a second mast step. The stem is bevelled to receive the hull planking. For that purpose, the kit includes a patterns (green on the sketch) to mark the bevel line. Notches allow to mark the position (centre of circles) of clinker lines, allowing proper positioning of hull planks.

The following sketch shows the bevel principle:

The fore face is 20 mm wide (10 mm from centreline). Under waterline, the fore face is reduced in width and fully disappeared when stem is joining the keel. This transition area will be worked out later when the first hull planks will be fitted.

5.6. Centreboard case Plan 21K/24K The centreboard case is fully prefabricated in order to be inserted between both end bulkheads. Glue in place the timber parts outside each sides: logs at bottom, floorboard supports at about mi- height, carlins at top. This allows to screw from inside. Logs are to be planed out according to sides shape:

Inside there is posts to close the case on fore and aft ends and partly on top:

Before closing the case, sheath inside with glass cloth and add a thick coat of epoxy to give a dur- able protection. It will be quite impossible to renew the inside protection during the life of the boat. Note that case sides have tenons to be inserted into end bulkheads mortices. A slot is made to hold the centreboard pivot. A plywood doubler close the slot from outside. This makes the centreboard easily extracted.

5.7. Assembly of hull planks/strakes Appendix 2K Each strake is made of two parts with a zig-zag joint which need only to be glued together. Prior gluing, coat the plywood edges with epoxy and wait until the resin has been soaked up. Then apply glue again and join both parts. It is essential to squeeze the joint to have the planks perfectly flushed. You may use the strong-back box girder as support. To avoid mixing up planks, there is dents close to joints. Dents have to be on the same side (upper side when the boat is upright). The aft part has only one dent, the fore part several. The number of dents give the order of planks (1 to 5 and again 1 to 5 dents for planks 6 to 10). There is also dent at the aft end of planks. The number of dents gives also the order:

The sketch shows plank 2 or 7 (7 is much longer) When glued, the joints are epoxy sheathed (300g/m² cloth) on the inside face. Sheathing extends up to about 100 mm beyond joints.

5.8. Erecting the building frame, mid length part Appendix 2K 3 station moulds and 4 bulkheads supports are laid on the box girder. Supports have holes to temporarily bolt the corresponding bulkheads, using 8 mm bolts. Plans 21 to 24K Note that station mould 3 is made of several parts (see appendix 2) to allow dismounting when the hull structure is made complete (not shown on the sketch as the problem was discovered when building the first boat!). The doubler is to be glued to the axial part of the station mould. Then the mould is assembled with 2 bolts.

Lay down temporarily both 18 mm plywood carlins. They are left free. It will be impossible to insert them later:

Put in place the ensemble made of bulkhead 4 and 7 and the centreboard case. As already said, tenons of the case are to be inserted into bulkheads mortices. Check everything is OK and glue the bulkheads to the case:

Add both semi-bulkheads 5.5 (named 5.5 because there is 2 frames, 5 and 6, on the “classic” Ilur):

These half-bulkheads will be glued with epoxy fillets to the centreboard case later, when the structure will be stiffer. Put in place the oblique floorboards (plywood) on sides, including the batten 25 X 25 underneath (see plan 23K) which is not shown on the sketch:

A watertight epoxy fillet between floorboards and hull will prevent bilge water to raise above floorboard when the boat is heeling, improving comfort on board. A doubler is glued against fore face of bulkhead 4 to support this floorboard. At the other end, a mortice is cut into bulkhead 7 to receive the floorboard tenon. To fit theses floorboards at this step of construction allows to stiffened the building frame but also to be sure not to have to make adjustments. However, it is preferable not to glue at this stage and use only temporary screws. Then it will be possible to take away these floorboards when inconvenient during the planking process (to have a better access). Final gluing will be made after turning over of the hull.

5.9. Erecting the building frame, aft part Appendix 2K Lay down both longitudinal bulkheads which enclose the side buoyancy chambers: Plans 21 to 24K

Then, insert bulkhead 2 and the centreline plywood keelson extending from centreboard case to transom:

The keelson is glued and screwed into bulkhead 4. Drill longitudinally the keelson at mid-height to insert a screw. Lay down the transom to be inserted into 4 tenons on longitudinal bulkheads. You do not have to worry about position and rake:

5.10. Erecting the building frame, fore part Appendix 2K Put in due place both longitudinal carlins made of 18 mm plywood extending from bulkhead 2 to bulkhead 7. They will support the floorboards. Lay down bulkhead 9 and the fore longitudinal bulk- Plans 21 to 24K heads which enclose the fore buoyancy chambers, keeping a free space at centreline for oars stowage.

Put in place the stem supports, inset into the main box girder. There are notches for that purpose:

Finally, lay down the stem which is glued to bulkhead 9:

5.11. Lay down the keel Appendix 2K The keel is made of timber, 110 mm wide at centreboard case, decreasing toward ends. Use simply the bulkhead or station moulds notches to mark the breadth at each stations. Plans 21 to 24K

Before gluing the keel to bulkheads, stem and transom (but of course not to station moulds!), cut out the slot for the centreboard. Be careful as the fore end of the slot is located about 200 mm aft of bulkhead 7 (see plan 21K). Cut out 3 mortices, 36 mm wide (+ some margin for epoxy), in front of notches into the aft keelson. These are intended to receive the skeg made of 2 layer of 18 mm plywood.

Then bevel the keel with a plane, according to bulkheads and station moulds angle, to receive the hull planking.

5.12. Hull planking Sheets 43 & 44 Lapstrakes are cut at final shape and do require adjustment at ends only. The general process is as follows (see details in sheets 43 and 44): ✔ Lay down temporarily the plank according to notches / angles on bulkheads and station moulds and according to “previous” plank. The normal value of overlap is 22 mm. But to cope with the unavoidable inaccuracy, the actual overlap may vary between minimum 10 mm (locally) and 30 mm. ✔ Make end chamfer as per sheet 44 § 4. ✔ Mark and plane the chamfer on the “previous” plank full length. ✔ Glue the plank. ✔ Repeat with the opposite plank. It is preferable to plank progressively both sides to avoid any hull distortion. When gluing, strakes are held in place by small Pozidriv or similar screws. To reduce the number of glue preparation, it is possible to fit temporarily several (3 for example) strakes with screws and after take them away and glue the full set of strakes. Be careful to coat and soak the planed plywood bevels with epoxy and wait some minutes before applying epoxy glue. Note that the first plank (garboard) must cover the keel up to centreline. It will be covered afterwards by the false-keel. Tenons are also to be cut out in way of tenons in the keel. Same thing for the centreboard slot. Attention: do not chamfer the plank external edge in way of bilge keels. Attention: due to the reduced number of bulkheads/station moulds, in particular in way of the centreboard case, it may be useful to screw the strakes through an external temporary batten to give extra stiffness.

5.13. External completions of the hull Plans 21 to 24K To do before turning over the hull: ✔ Lay-down the false-stem. Shape it on the bench, leaving a 18 mm about width flat surface on the fore face (a little more than the metal keel band). Adjust, glue and screw in place from outside. ✔ Insert the skeg made of 2 layers of 18 mm plywood. The aft part is streamlined as shown on plan 21K. The skeg is fasten to hull by 3 tenons inserted into keel and keelson. Epoxy fillet will be done between skeg and keelson after tuning over (note that these part have not the same thickness). Make also epoxy filet between skeg and hull planking.

✔ Plane off the garboards (strake 1) at centreline to make a flat area of same width than the false-keel. Then lay-down the hardwood false keel. The slot for the centreboard have also to be cut-out before gluing in place. Note that the width of the false keel decrease on a short length between centreboard slot and skeg. In order to get a more progressive shape and better look, you may add some epoxy putty on fore sides of skeg. ✔ Lay down bilge keels to protect the hull when aground. They are to be cut-out to shape from timber. Make a pattern with light plywood to get the hull camber. They are glued and screwed from inside. Remember do not chamfer the hull plank in way of the bilge keel (see sketch on sheet 44). ✔ Saturate all plywood strakes edges with epoxy resin. Repeat as necessary to get a good protection. ✔ At this stage, it is possible to paint the hull, except the sheerstrake which has to receive the rub-rail. This will avoid several turning over of the hull. ✔ Screw down 2 brass, bronze or stainless steel keel bands, one from stem-head to centreboard slot, the other from centreboard slot to lower rudder pintle.

5.14. Hull turning over The hull is turned over after releasing all bolts linking bulkheads to supports. Be very careful when turning over. Check available space and resistance of hanging points. It is better to have many hands to help and a good coordination. After turning over, wedge the boat, checking that is is not twisted before resuming work.

Check the sheer-line which must be fair and elegant. If necessary, it is still possible to plane out some millimetres to be fully satisfied. Saturate with epoxy the inside edges of hull planking.

5.15. Gunwale and rub-rail Appendix 1K Check the dimension (17 mm) between sheer-line and bulkhead top. Make required adjustment of sheerstrake or bulkhead. Plans 21 to 24K The gunwale/rub-rail ensemble is made of 3 layers. The intermediate layer is made of 2 or 3 parts, interrupted at thole pins location. Make a 7 X 17 mm rabbet in the outer layer (rub-rail). Use some screws when gluing the gunwale layers as glued parts are very slippery until curing is done. Locate screws in order that they will be hidden by the following layer. The last ones may be covered by putty (in case of painting) or bungs in case of varnish. Clamps are added to get an appropriate pressure on the full length.

The gunwale is screwed vertically into bulkhead heads. Drill broadly in order to avoid splitting the plywood and fill in the hole with epoxy before inserting the screws. Then fit the quarter knees linking transom to gunwale. To ease adjustment, they are located underneath the gunwale. A hole gives an additional way for mooring. For a better look, these knees are slightly inclined. Attention: The gunwale angles are to be chamfered only when all attached parts are in place: quarter knees but also mast partner knees (see below).

5.16. Additional floors Appendix 2K In order to improve stiffness of the boat bottom, essentially when on trailer without centreline rollers, two pairs of plywood floors are added (glued with epoxy fillets), one at mid length between Plans 21K frames 4 and 5.5, the other under the centreboard pivot:

5.17. Seat riser Appendix 1K Lay down the aft beam which support the aft seats. This beam is made of 18 mm plywood with notches to receive the seat riser ends and is doubled on the aft side by a timber batten: Plans 21 to 24K

The seat risers (18 X 25 mm) are inserted into notches in all transverse bulkheads. They are not inclined and do not require any bevel. Their main purpose is to support the seats and thwarts.

5.18. Miscellaneous battens Appendix 1K Insert and glue the 18 mm plywood cap which covers the aft keelson. It will supports a centreline floorboard aft of centreboard case: Plans 21 to 24K

Screw and glue the various battens which support floorboards and seats:

5.19. Thwarts and seats Appendix 1K On such an open boat, thwarts represent an important weight and it is advisable to use a light timber, mahogany or conifer. Red cedar may also be used (soft but very light). Plans 21 to 24K Be careful with the side seats. They are thinner and wide. An excellent wood is required to avoid Sheet 71 warping. An other way is either to use two planks with a small interval or to make a glued wide plank with 50 mm wide about battens (alternating wood rings orientation).

5.20. Floorboards Appendix 1K The floorboard near centreline are removable in order to allow stowage of oars underneath. Make some finger cut-outs to ease raising. It is recommended to have a safety line or any other means to Plans 21 to 24K avoid losing floorboards in case of capsize. Sheet 71 The other floorboards may be simply screwed down.

5.21. Foot rests Plan 21K/24K I suggest “statical” foot rests as shown on plan. Then you always find one pair to put you feet, without anything to adjust. Also, there is no transversal bar which prevent the oars stowage and Appendix 1K may be lost in a capsize. Fit at least 3 pairs of foot rests per thwart, located at 100 mm interval. The intermediate one is about 650 mm from the aft edge of thwart. If you intend to have children or small persons, you may add one additional pair toward the thwart (at least for one thwart). The foot rests are cut into a 35 X 45 hardwood planks. The easiest way to fasten them to floorboard is to glue them in place with a weight above. When the glue has cured, turn over the floorboard and add long screws which are the only true and long lasting fastening. It is also possible to make removable foot rests as shown on the following picture:

5.22. Bilge pump You may use a simple bailer but a pump is more efficient. A simple way is to use a hand suction pump. For that purpose, just cut a hole in the floorboards, aft of centreboard case. A more sophisticated installation may be done as per picture:

5.23. Mast steps Plan 23 or 24 According to rig option, there is one or two mast steps. They are made of thick plywood and are fitted on the inside profile of stem which is designed accordingly. Small battens are glued and screwed underneath and allow to straddle the mast step over the stem. The mast step (at least the fore one) is removable. The design allows to change the mast rake after a half turn. This is useful for the lug yawl rig, as it allows to sail without the mizzen with an increased rake of the fore mast.

5.24. Drain plug Fit a drain plug to empty the boat when on trailer. Locate it aft of the centreboard case, close to keel, in order to have access through the removable floorboard. Buy a model adapted to plank thickness.

5.25. Painting Sheet 91 The sheer-strake may be varnished or painted with a different colour. Note that a clear colour out- lines the strakes on a clinker construction and give a better looking. Refer the sheet 91 for general painting instructions, as well as pictures on my web site to get colour ideas. As the Ilur has a generous free-board, it is aesthetically better to paint the underwater hull with a different colour. In that case, the painted waterline is to be located about 50 mm above the drawn waterline.

5.26. Rudder Plan 26K To be made of plywood according to plan. It is also possible to make the rudder blade in strip planked timber (50 mm wide about), alternating wood rings orientation to prevent warping (see Sheet 72 sheet 31). If you have okume plywood, it is preferable to sheath the rudder blade to give extra stiffness. The pivot is a plywood disk, allowing to link both cheeks. Take care to get the appropriate latitude between blade and cheeks to allow free rotation, but not too much to keep a good stiffness. It is normal to have to push the blade with hand down to sailing position. A hoisting line is kept in place by a notch in the rudder head. Make knots at appropriate positions. A tightened shock-cord is tied up to make a loop between a hole in the rudder blade and a cleat above the upper pintle. It maintains the rudder blade in lower position when sailing. Note that we have slightly deepened the rudder blade for the lug yawl version. The kit includes this new shape. If you choose an other rig, you may cut it out, as the short shape gives satisfaction, but you may also keep the deep shape.

5.27. Rowing oars Plan 36 I have designed two pairs of oars with “eyes” to be inserted into thole pins, inspired from Irish cur- raghs as well as Swiss lakes boats. They are light, easy to make and very efficient in sea condition. The oars length is 3 m, corresponding to the stowage length above or under floorboards. The “bull”, or piece of hardwood, is drilled with two holes generously carved at entry to give a good vertical movement freedom. Use either hole according to sea and wind. The usual hole is the inner one. The outer hole gives more strength on the blades. With the inner hole, it is also possible, at least on the main thwart, to have two persons rowing on the same thwart. Keep on board a piece of paraffin. It is an excellent lubricant for the thole pins, avoiding to stain clothes or sail. Of course, you may use classic oars of the same length with bronze oarlocks.

5.28. Sculling oar Plan 37 Scull is very useful in congested harbour, as it does not require a wide channel as with oars. Sheet 81 The rowing oars are too weak to be used for sculling, except for a short while and with care. If you are willing to scull on a regular basis, it is preferable to have a dedicated oar for that

5.29. Standing lug rig Plan 23 This rig is very simple and typical of traditional boats of Brittany (said misainier). It is more efficient Plan 31 that many people think. The sail is always hoisted on the same side of mast, and this is the mean- ing of the word “standing”. Refer to plans and sheets for making the rig. Appendix 4K Attention: Mast rake is given on sail plan. In practice, reduce this rake (about 1°) to take in account Sheet 81 mast flexibility and play at step and partner. As the step is fixed, rake tuning is done when cutting Sheet 82 the mast partner. It is very important to have an efficient tack purchase (see plan 23). The tack has to be tuned fre- quently when sailing to get the best of the rig. That is why the design includes a purchase alongside the centreboard case. The mast is held in the partner by a rope, starting from an eyebolt and one side, making several back and forth, and turned on a belay pin on the other side.

Mast partner When reaching, use of a pole is recommended both to increase the effective sail area and to prevent excessive rolling. The pole may be simply hooked into the halyard:

5.30. Lug sloop rig Plan 24K In addition to plans and sheets, we give some other instructions. Note that we consider it is possible to shift the mast in a fore position in order to convert the rig in a balanced lug (without jib) as shown Plans 32 & 33 on plan 33. If you are not interested by this option, you may simplify the arrangements described be- Plan 35 low. Plan 51 Attention: Mast rake is given on sail plan. In practice, reduce this rake (0.5 to 1°) to take in account Appendix 4K mast flexibility and play at step and partner. Sheet 81 Tack purchase Sheet 82 The boom is fitted with a half jaw to prevent moving forward. It is made of 2 layers 18 mm plywood glued to boom, with some sunk screws. The jaw is well rounded inside to avoid jamming and may be covered inside with leather. A simple hole is drilled into the half-jaw (as close to boom as possible to avoid any twist effect) to lash the downhaul. The downhaul is rigged in the same way as the tack line on the standing lug rig. The only difference is that the return block is lashed to the mast at convenient height. Drill a hole into mast and use a key pin shackle for easy dismantling when you shift the mast in forward position. Mast partner You may use the same arrangement as for the standing lug. However, when the mast is in forward position, the mast partner is a simple hole and the mast has to be lifted and inserted. Fore end of boom The tack point of the sail has to be as close as possible to the fore end of boom to prevent jib sheet to be jammed when tacking. For that purpose, see detail on plan 35. Use a lashing rope 4 mm in diameter. Mainsheet It is rigged as shown on sail plan and structure plan. The sheet come to the cleat located at centreline, at easy reach for the helmsman. He may make a simple turn on the cleat and keep it in hand. Note that it is possible to rig the sheet with 2 or 4 lines. 2 lines is more suited by light airs or if you do not mind to have to sheet in hard in fresh wind. 2 lines is better for safety, as there is less risk to jam the sheet. Bowsprit and jib A bowsprit iron maintains the bowsprit over the stem head and the bowsprit is attached to the mast with a light rudder fitting. The jib tack may be directly lashed to the bowsprit end. You may use a simple loop inserted into a hole and turn back over the bowsprit end. Just push the bowsprit and attach to mast before hoisting the jib. The jib halyard rig is made of a simple lead at mast head and a cleat screwed into mast on starboard side. Therefore, you have 2 cleats on the same side of mast, one located at 45° forward, the other at 45° aft-ward. The jib sheet goes through a lead screwed on the gunwale. You may also use a bull's eye lashed to the seat riser. This allows some tuning. A cleat is screwed on the fore face of the main thwart locally doubled, as shown on plan.

Sailing with the mast in forward position Be conscious that changing from one rig to the other one needs to be done ashore as it requires sev - eral changes: moving block position on boom, downhaul rigging, etc... For the downhaul, you may use the existing plywood eye on the aft face of stem with a strop of appropriate length in order not to hamper masting and un-masting. It will be appropriate to lash this strop to bulkhead 9 or floorboard (drill holes where appropriate) in order that the block remain in good position.

5.31. Balanced lug rig Plan 23 This is an intermediate rig, interesting to sail in river or single-handed. Plans 41 The boat structure is the same as for the standing lug except that the rake of mast is 6° instead of 8°. Thus, the mast step has to shifted aft by 25 mm. Appendix 4K Attention: Mast rake is given on sail plan. In practice, reduce this rake (about 1°) to take in account Sheet 81 mast flexibility and play at step and partner. As the step is fixed, rake tuning is done when cutting Sheet 82 the mast partner. Fittings are the same as for the main sail of the lug sloop rig. Of course, there is no need to make the specific arrangement of the fore end of boom (there is no jib). I recommend the same sheet arrangement as for the sloop rig. It is also possible to use the arrangement shown on the following picture. It requires a swivelling block with cam-cleat (on the centreboard case top) which is a modern and sophisticated device not so appropriate on such a traditional boat.

5.32. Lug yawl rig Plan 23 This rig gives a more elegant look to your Ilur and has also some interests when rowing or when drifting for fishing. Plans 43 & 44 The arrangement of the main mast is similar to the standing lug rig (see above). However, the mast Appendix 4K rake is reduced to 6° and the sheet thumb cleat is moved forward. Note that it is possible to sail Sheet 81 without the mizzen. Then it is better to give more rake to the main mast (8°). See mast step paragraph. Sheet 82 The mizzen mast and bumpkin arrangement is shown on plan 44. Some specific plywood parts and patterns are included in the kit to make the mast step:

5.33. Sails and ropes Plan 32 or 33 The best is sails made of Clipper Canvas or Oceanus, a soft polyester cloth having the touch of traditional cotton. Clipper Canvas is available in cream or tan colour. Sails made with these cloth are easier to handle and to stow on thwarts when rowing. The only drawback is that the lightest cloth available is heavy (300 g/m²). Otherwise, use a modern polyester cloth (under 160 g/m²) available also in cream and tan (but tan has a glossy effect and I prefer cream). There is today “hemp like” ropes, made of polypropylene or polyester (better) which fit perfectly a classic boat. They are available as traditional 3 or 4 strand ropes (easily spliced) or as braid (do not twist).

5.34. Outboard motor It is possible to hang an outboard motor to the transom. A long shaft is preferable. However, if the crew stays in the aft part of boat, a short shaft may also be used. It is not recommended to make a cut-out in the transom in order to fit a short shaft motor. Apart the aesthetic aspect, the motor in raised position will interfere with the tiller (of course this depend on the motor type). It is also recommended to protect the inside and outside faces of transom to avoid paint damaging by the outboard brackets. The scull notch is to be cut-out on the other side. A very small outboard (2 to 2.5 hp) is enough as an auxiliary motor. An electric motor (Torqeedo for example) is an other interesting option.

5.35. Trailer Choose a trailer with a payload of minimum 50 kg over light weight of the boat to take in account equipment on board. I strongly recommend to weight the finished boats, as the weight is deeply de- pending on the materials used for construction and “improvements” which may have been made. The model on picture, with two rows of lateral rollers, gives full satisfaction. They are generally sold for motor boats with V shaped hull. Avoid models with roller under the keel, which keep the boat higher and make launching more difficult.

Item (sorted by wood type and Version Wood Nb thick. width length comments scantlings) code mm mm mm Keel All A 1 18 110 4000 Stem (aft head trim) All A 1 10 48 200 Transom, upper board All A or C 1 28 120 1 250 Laminated false-stem All A 14 3 50 1 200 Cut-out beam, station 2 All A 1 18 60 800 False-keel All A 1 22 70 4 000 Frames trim All A 4 3 20 500 Mast partner knee trim All A 2 3 20 500 Rub-rail All A 2 18 25 4 800 With rabbet 9 X 17 Gunwale All A 4 18 25 4 700 The outside layer may be made of 3 parts (joints under thole boards):1 350 + 1 100 + 2 250 Miscellaneous battens All A 1 25 25 14 000 Total length Seat risers All A 2 18 25 3 100 Centreboard upper carlins All A 2 18 25 1 350 Centreboard case logs All A 2 25 40 1 350 Carlins under fore deck Lug sail A 2 30 50 320 Carlins under fore deck Lug sloop A 2 30 50 700 Doubler under thwart for cleat Lug sloop A 1 30 50 400 Total length Centreboard case aft post All A 1 25 30 420 Centreboard case fore post All A 1 25 45 420 Centreboard case upper spacer All A 1 20 25 650 Centreboard case cap All A 1 10 82 1 350 Floorboard support alongside case All A 2 12 25 1 400 Trim on centreboard case (aft) All A 1 10 45 250 Tiller All A 2 19 80 1 300 Shockcord guides on rudder cheeks All A 2 12 40 350 Fore deck Lug sail E 1 22 140 1 500 Total length March 2019 Ilur clinker kit Appendix 1K rev 6 - Page 2/3

Fore deck Lug sloop E 1 22 190 3 000 Total length Fore thwart All E 1 22 240 1 600 Aft thwart All E 1 22 240 1 700 Side seats All E 4 16 190 1 750 Aft deck All E 5 16 140 900 Aft floorboards All E 2 16 110 900 Aft floorboards (sides) All E 2 16 170 900 Mid length floorboards All E 6 16 110 1 350 Mid length floorboards (removable) All E 2 16 150 2 200 Fore floorboards All E 6 16 180 1 000 Fore floorboards (near centreline) All E 2 16 160 900

Quarter knees, quarter thumb cleats All C 1 22 120 800 Or other dimensions allowing to cut-out the 4 parts Bilge keels All C 2 22 50 1 100 To be cut-out to shape Fore thole boards All C 2 35 50 350 Aft thole boards All C 2 30 50 350 Oars bulls (for 4 oars) All C 1 22 35 1 200 Total length for 4 pieces Oars wearing planks (for 4 oars) All C 2 10 56 900 Total length for 4.2 X 2 pieces Foot-rest All C 1 35 45 400 Total length for 4 X 4 foot-rests Mizzen mast and bumpkin chocks Yawl C 1 26 120 400 Total length for 2 pieces Mast All F 1 90 90 5 200 Reduced diameter if Douglas fir : 87 mm Yard All F 1 60 60 3 750 Reduced diameter if Douglas fir : 58 mm Boom (sloop) Lug sloop F 1 60 60 3 900 Reduced diameter if Douglas fir : 58 mm Boom (balanced lug rig) Balanced lug F 1 60 60 4 100 Reduced diameter if Douglas fir : 58 mm Bowsprit Lug sloop F 1 70 70 2 000 Pole Lug sail F 1 40 45 3 100 Mizzen mast Yawl F 1 52 52 3 500 Bumpkin Yawl F 1 26 26 1 500 Mizzen boom Yawl F 1 42 42 1 500 Oars, loom All G 4 36 56 3 100 Oars, blades All G 8 36 40 1 100 March 2019 Ilur clinker kit Appendix 1K rev 6 - Page 3/3

Note: Given length takes into account end margins; given thickness and widths are dimension of final (planed) dimensions.

Wood Code Main use Recommended species A Glued main structure parts : stem, laminated Sipo, Sapele, Mahogany, Iroko, Douglas fir frames, gunwale… C Wearing parts Oak, Acacia, Iroko E Thwarts, seats and floorboards Red pine, Douglas fir, Mahogany F Masts and spars Northern pine, Spruce, Douglas fir G Oars Northern pine, Spruce François Vivier Architecte Naval (Douglas fir or ash for a scull) 5 March 2019 Ilur clinker kit – appendix 2K rev 4 Plywood panels and parts list

The following pages give the nesting plans of plywood parts with identification of each element, the list of the panels being as follows:

Type Format Thickness Quantity Use Marine all okoume, 2 440X 1 220 18 mm 2 Transverse bulkheads, sapele or sipo 13 layers centreboard, rudder, transom... Marine all okoume 2 440X 1 220 9 mm 8 Buoyancy compartments, 7 layers centreboard case, hull planking Ordinary plywood 2 440X 1 220 15 mm 5 Building frame and moulds

Attention : there is identical panels to be cut twice. These cutting files allow to build all rig versions: standing lug, balanced lug, lug sloop, lug yawl. A few parts apply to one version only and may be disregarded. Note: the rudder has been made deeper by 60 mm for a better sail balance with the lug yawl rig. If an other rig is chosen, the rudder blade may be cut.

François Vivier Naval Architect 21 April 2014 Tableau Dérive Transom Centreboard

Demi-encornat de bôme Demi-varangues Boom half jaws Half floors

Aileron ou talon Skeg Aileron ou talon Skeg

Demi-encornat de bôme Carlingue en AR du puits Boom half jaws Etrave, plis latéraux Keelson, aft of case Stem, side layers

Barrot près de tableau Beam, close to transom

Longerons supports de planchers Main carlins supporting floorboards Doublantes axiales sous bancs Doublers under thwarts at centreline

Courbe d'étambrai misainier Tête de gouvernail Mast partner knee (standing lug) Rudder head Cloison 9 Cloison 5.5 Cloison 4 Bulkhead 9 Bulkhead 5.5 Bulkhead 4

Courbe d'étambrai sloup Ame de gouvernail Mast partner knee (sloop) Rudder core

Doublante C4 Doubler bulkhead 4

Safran Rudder blade Emplanture Cloison 7 Mast step Bulkhead 7

Emplanture Chapeau de carlingue Mast step Keelson cap Doublante puits de dérive Centreboard case doubler

Cloison longi arrière Aft longi bulkhead

Cloison longi arrière

Emplanture mât de tape-cul Aft longi bulkhead Mizzen mast step

Doublante intérieure tableau Inside transom doubler Gabarits pour version yawl Cloison longi avant Patterns for lug yawl version Fore longi bulkhead

Cloison 2 Cloison longi avant Bulkhead 2 Fore longi bulkhead Puits de dérive Centreboard case

Joues de gouvernail Tête de gouvernail Puits de dérive Rudder cheeks Rudder head Centreboard case

Tête de gouvernail Rudder head Joues de gouvernail Rudder cheeks

Plancher latéral oblique Sloped side floorboard Etrave, plis axial Plancher latéral oblique Stem, centreline layer Sloped side floorboard

Poutre support, plan arrière Main girder, aft panel

Poutre support, côté avant Main girder, fore side Poutre support, côté avant Main girder, fore side

Poutre support, plan avant Main girder, fore panel

Support cloison 5.5 Bulkhead 5.5 support

Poutre support, plan avant Main girder, fore panel Gabarit barrot ouvragé couple 2 Cut-out beam at bulkhead 2 pattern Poutre support, côté arrière Main girder, aft side

Support de poutre Main girder support

Support de poutre Main girder support Gabarit de barre Tiller pattern

Gabarit d'équerrage d'étrave Poutre support, côté arrière stem bevel pattern Main girder, aft side

Gabarit de fausse-étrave False stem pattern Gabarit tête de tableau Transom head pattern

Support d'étrave Stem support

Plancher latéral oblique Sloped side floorboard

Gabarit couple 8 Station mould 8

Gabarit d'équerrage tableau Transom bevel pattern Support d'étrave Stem support Gabarit courbes de tableau Quarter knees pattern Support cloison 9 Support cloison 4 Bulkhead 9 support Bulkhead 4 support

Gabarit de couple 3 Station mould 3

Doublante gabarit de couple 3 Station mould 3 doubler

Support cloison 7 Bulkhead 7 support Gabarit de couple 3 Station mould 3 Ilur clinker kit– Appendix 4K – rev 2 Fittings list

Item Rig Use Quantity Dimension Obs. Rudder gudgeon All Rudder 2 Classic Marine (for pintle 10 mm S2 2 holes about.) vertical gudgeon HL 2222

Rudder pintle All Rudder 2 Classic Marine (pintle 10 mm S2 3 holes pintle about.) HL 2254

Stainless steel All Rudder 1 Dinghy type safety clip

Mast traveller, All Mast 1 Inside diameter bronze or 100 mm about galvanized, (90 mm mast). preferably with Rod diameter 10 leather mm.

Cleat, ash or teak All Halyard on mast 2 175 mm about and sail sheet Deck clip, All Thole pin seizing 4 Small model stainless steel line

Deck clip, All Centreboard 2 Medium size stainless steel shock-cord Bronze of brass All Thole pins, stem 1 m Diam. 14 mm rod cleat, mast partner cleat, centreboard pivot Convex keel- All Keel band 6 m 8 X 16 about band or strips, brass or bronze

Stainless steel All Mast partner and 2 Diameter 8 eye-bolt lazaret locking device.

Tufnol sheave All Mast head 1 Thickness 13 mm Diameter 60 à 70 Appropriate stainless steel pivot (8 mm about) April 2014 Ilur clinker kit fittings Appendix 4K rev 2- Page 2/4

Tufnol block All Tack purchase 2 N°10 Single, with ring Sheave 35 mm

Tufnol block All Tack purchase 1 N°8 Single, with Sheave 30 mm becket

Tufnol cheek All Tack purchase 1 N°8 block Sheave 30 mm

Cam cleat with All Tack purchase 1 For rope 6 mm guide

Draining plug, All Hull 1 For planking 9 brass or nylon mm

Polyester rope or All Halyard (10 m) and 12 m 10 mm braid, preferably tack line hemp like

Polyester rope or All Rudder hoisting, 20 m 6 mm braid, preferably tack or downhaul hemp like purchase, grommets, reefing line. Polyester rope or All Sail lashing on 25 m 4 mm braid, preferably yard, reef hemp like pennants. Braid, preferably All Protection and 50 m 3 mm brown small lashings Shock-cord All Centreboard and 4 m 8 mm rudder

Tufnol block Standing Sheet 1 N°10 Single, with lug Sheave 35 mm becket

Low friction Standing Sheet 1 For rope 8 to 10 bulseyes lug mm April 2014 Ilur clinker kit fittings Appendix 4K rev 2- Page 3/4

Polyester rope or Standing Sheet (12 m), tack 20 m 8 mm braid, preferably lug (4), grommets hemp like

Tufnol block Balanced Mainsheet 1 N°10 Single, with lug Sheave 35 mm becket

Tufnol block Balanced Mainsheet 3 N°10 Single, with ring lug Sheave 35 mm

Polyester rope or Balanced Mainsheet, 25 m 8 mm braid, preferably lug downhaul... hemp like

Tufnol block Lug sloop Mainsheet 1 N°10 Single, with Sheave 35 mm becket

Tufnol block Lug sloop Mainsheet 3 N°10 Single, with ring Sheave 35 mm

Polyester rope or Lug sloop Mainsheet (20 m), 45 m 8 mm braid, preferably downhaul.(3), jib hemp like halyard (10), jib sheet (8) Rudder fittings for Lug sloop Mast and bowsprit 1 Pin diameter 8 small dinghy mm

Stem head fitting Lug sloop Stem head Plan 51 for bowsprit

Lockover lipped Lug sloop Fore deck 2 fairlead, bronze. (symetrica May be replaced l) by a hardwood block. April 2014 Ilur clinker kit fittings Appendix 4K rev 2- Page 4/4

Cleat, ash or teak Lug sloop Jib halyard on 2 175 mm about mast, jib sheet Bronze or brass Lug sloop Mast partner belay 0.5 m Diameter 14 mm rod pin Sheet lead Lug sloop 2 on gunwale for jib 3 For rope 8 mm sheets, 1 at mast head for jib halyard

Key pin shackle Lug sloop For downhaul lower 1 Diameter 4 mm block on mast

Cam cleat for Lug yawl Sheet 1 For rope 6 mm mizzen sheet

Low friction Lug yawl Sheet, end of 1 For rope 6 mm bulseye bumpkin

Brass band Lug yawl Mizzen mast 1 3 X 20 mm partner Length 300 mm Polyester rope or Lug yawl Sheet 4 m 6 mm braid, preferably hemp like Polyester rope or Lug yawl Sail lashing on 10 m 4 mm braid, preferably mast hemp like

In UK: http://www.classicmarine.co.uk

François Vivier Architecte Naval 21 April 2014