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L U CE R NE CH AM ONIX ' VIL L A R S A N D CH A M PE R ! L AU SANNE r m N TL L A N D novn n m c m ‘ T r m m m : LIST OF I L L U S T R AT I ONS Lucer n e : Spr in gtim e on the M usegg — T he R igi fr om the M usegg L ucem e ’ R uins of Gess ler s Str onghold at K ussnacht M oun t P ilatus fr om Stansstad T he Ber nese A lps fr om M oun t Pilatus — The Titlis fr om E ngelber g Winter — T he E ngelber g at E ngelber g Spr ing Tr eib T he U r i - R othstock see n fr om Br unnen L U CE R N E There is good warrant for turning directly to Lucerne and to the lake which lies in the midst of the four Forest Cantons when making, or renewing, acquaintance with Switzerland ; and there should be no question of thereby slighting other famed districts of this favoured land . Almost invariably it is best to Vie r wald go straight to the heart of things , and the ’ - the s tatter See, or Lake of Four Forest Cantons commonly known to us as the Lake of Lucerne is held to be, both geographically and historically, e . e at the very heart of Switz rland Th re is , too, the additional assurance that no other district in the whole of the twenty- two Cantons which go to the making 6 LUCERN E ' r fi r r of the Confede ation can o e a more admi able, a more ideal introduction to the fascinating wonde rs and de lights of Swiss scenery . In spite of our being u in the heart of the co ntry, we are, as it were , upon the r e r frontie of a Promised Land, one flowing as lit — ally as may be with milk and honey and glaciers ; m a we are, that is to say, at the portal by which we y F r as lief best ente r the domain of the Swiss Alps . o - if we except Pilatus, that gaunt, tormented rock mass standing in severe isolation upon the threshold of the city, Lucerne is relative ly modest and restrained as regards its immediate scenery ; but away on the horizon which bounds the waters of the Lake is the long snowy array of majestic Alps , and we may soon reach by boat and rail the giants of Schwyz, Uri, Unterwalden and the Bernese Obe rland . The steam boats alone will transport us, through graduated scenic e ff - grandeur, to the gr at cli s and snow covered crags of Uri , romantic birthplace of the Swiss Republic . a However, there is no occ sion to become restive at the prospect ; Lucerne itself is the most charming ’ ' of preludes and poi n ts d appu z for all that lies afie ld . Particular ly is this so if Opportunity allows us to be e w e e a ll here in the spring of the y ar, ith the fruit tr s a- flower and the gre y- towe r ed M usegg ramparts d e e p s e t in a rosy- white haze ; and with the fields all a- ue wave with bl , white, and gold, and the lakeside LU CERN E 7 promenade laden with the myriad flower - spikes of the - i — e horse chestnut trees. Spring is earl er here som — ten days earlier in May than away at the very fe et Al e of the ps . We may well be content, then, to r main e awhile amid such vernal freshness, studying the lif “ ’ and history of the town of the wooden storks nests and revelling on the quay in the Alpine panorama fr amed by the soft blue sky and blue- green waters a panorama which is never more delightful than at this season of the year, never even in autumn when October clears the atmosphere, robes the near hills in fire, deepens the blue colouring of distant rock and r forest, and spreads a new white drape y upon the higher peaks . fiv - - To those who knew this town, say, e and twenty - years ago, and who have not revisited it until to day, how many are the changes which they will meet, and with What mixed feelings will they meet these changes ! The past twenty - fiv e years have meant astonishing developments for almost every quarter of Switzerland . Cities have burst their bounds and have spread far along the countryside ; villages have grown into towns, - and from nothing, or perhaps from a single old time chalet, great groups of hotels and their dependencie s have sprung up upon the mountains . And Lucerne certainly has been no laggard in this movement. Twenty - fiv e years ago the sign an d symbol of the 8 LUCERN E city was a stolid, stunted tower set in water beside r a long, oofed , wooden bridge running slantwise across a river, with tapering twin steeples beyond . But nowadays the place would be unrecognizable without an airship floating above vast Palace hotels which all but obscure the twin steeples and cause the aged - Br ii cke Kapell and its faithful companion, the Was s e r tur m , to look as two quaint old country folk come into town to see the sights, and who remain coyly S e e - Br ii c ke by the on the outskirts, so to speak, of - all the splendid modern hustle two dear, simple, e e - r tic nt old things in their old world garb , despite the efforts of the authorities to bring them abreast of the times by festooning them about with many r st ings of electric lights . We have to be thankful that these and other intense ly individual relics of the past weathered the r age for demolition that appears to have reigned in the town during the middle of the nineteenth century . Something of what this rage was like can be gathered from Professor Wein ’ ’ gartner s pictures which line the walls of M uth s he - Beer Restaurant in t Alpen Strasse . Here, whilst ' S hwei n s w zi r s tl sampling the c , a speciality of the e hous , we can study the presentment of at le ast a dozen old gates and towe rs which were pulled down be twee n the years 1832 and 1870. That the re main M use e ing nine gg towers , the two wood n bridges LUCERN E S PR INGTI M E ON TH E M USEGG LUCERN E 9 an d the Water Tower escaped this onslaught would seem to have been a miracle of good luck . At any - r e rate, the townspeople of to day must su ly look upon it in some such light . For a new Spirit now rules — a in this direction spirit of conservatism , even of rehabilitation—and what of the antique past remains c r is lear and safe, and what can be done to einstate or r or reconstruct that which was lost, in dange of - being lost, in the fresco and iron work decorated - A r house fronts is rapidly being done . t is in the ’ e - asc ndancy to day in Lucerne, and Hans Holb e in s heart would be rejoiced could he but return to the e 1 1 6 quart rs he frequented in 5 before he journeyed , in 1 2 . I 5 6, to the Court of England do not think that the townspeople would go so far as Rodin , the e U n e s l gr at French sculptor, and say, eu e c h os e ’ ” e s t u ti l e d a m on d e : l A r t ! (for there is the hotel business, and however artistically inclined the L uc er n ois e may b e, they are eminently practical) ; but it is quite evident that to - day they would never accept without amendment Plato’ s scheme for a republic in which Art was ignored . In some of its aspects Lucerne is reminiscent of both Nuremberg and Venice : of the forme r in its e r ancient towers, its beat n ironwo k and its frescoed houses ; and of the latter in its river and lakeside life r the e and a chitecture , especially looking from Schw i 1 0 LUCERN E z e r hof ! uay to the finely domed railway station acr oss the e - - wat r, or again at night time when many tinted e e e e - r fl ct d lights danc upon the flood , and row boats, e e with the oarsm n pois d much as in Venetian gondolas, move stealthily athwart the velvet shadows . All this , s ubstan however, is merely reminiscent ; Lucerne is iall t y herself Lucerna, the Shining One quick with an individual beauty in which orderliness , dignity, and - e se lf respect are prominent qualities . And becaus r r these t aits in her characte are so manifest, certain lapses in good taste and the fitness of things are apt to be the more keenly regrette d . Go down along R the right side of the euss river, past the Kapell Br ii c ke with its 154 paintings of ancient local history - he and legend filling the beam spaces beneath t roof, b efr es o d z u Pfister n past the c e Gasthaus , past the Flowe r a n d F ruit M arket in the old Rathaus ar - cades , past the Hotel Balances and its history tell a a d e the ing f c , across Wine Market containing a fif n h- te e t ce ntury fountain de dicate d to St .

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