Etna Rosso with the Potential of the Nerello Mascalese Grape Now Clear, Sicily’S Volcanic Red Wine Is on a Roll, with a Boom in Investment and Vineyard Area
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PANEL TASTING Etna Rosso With the potential of the Nerello Mascalese grape now clear, Sicily’s volcanic red wine is on a roll, with a boom in investment and vineyard area. Michael Garner reports THIRTY YEARS AGO, Etna Rosso was in danger of becoming a museum piece. Following DOC recognition N Randazzo 120 in 1968, it had been barely kept alive by a few producers Castiglione – notably Barone Villagrande, Cantine Russo and the di Sicilia Taormina local co-operative Torrepalino (now a privately owned 120 Maletto Linguaglossa company), serving an almost entirely local market. But a A18 Piedimonte trickle of new interest in the late 1980s and early 1990s Etneo when Benanti and then Cottanera invested in the area, SIC I LY Bronte ETNA 114 was to become a substantial flow soon after. Mount ROSSO Sant’Alfio 284 Etna Between 2003 and 2014 the land under vine in the Riposto Simeto Milo DOC zone more than doubled, though the consorzio, Giarre founded in the early 1990s by just a few growers, predicts Zafferana that the growth rate will soon slow and peak at around a 1,000 hectares. While some of the new blood came from Adrano e S within Sicily, including well-known names like Cusumano, Biancavilla Firriato, Planeta and Tasca d’Almerita, among the first Nicolosi an Acireale e outsiders to arrive were Belgian Frank Cornelissen, Belpasso Viagrande n a Andrea Franchetti from Tuscany and American Marc de 114 Reggio Mascalucia rr Grazia at the start of the new millennium. Local families, di Calabria e Messina Aci Castello Palermo Y L dit meanwhile, have been quick to reclaim their passion for A IT e the land and wineries such as Girolamo Russo, Graci and Trapani Mount ETNA M SIC I LY Etna ROSSO Tornatore are now playing an vital part in the comeback. Catania A18 Catania Agrigento Gulf of Magic on the mountain Siracusa Catania Etna ticks almost all the boxes: distinctive local varieties Mediterranean 0 5 10 Sea rarely seen elsewhere; cool-climate conditions at altitudes kilometres between 400m to 1,100m; myriad soil types from Nelson Maggie Map: volcanic ash and pumice to patches of limestone and sand – there were even ancient, terraced and some Etna: the facts pre-phylloxera vineyards waiting to be rediscovered. Etna Rosso: DOC recognition 1968 Meanwhile, using old maps, local communes have know your vintages DOC area under vine identified 133 contrade (the Italian word for ‘district’) 771ha (80% red grapes) where traditionally the best vineyards were to be found 2015 A mixed 2012 The hottest Etna Rosso grape and which are now embodied within the production growing season, which vintage since 2003, varieties 80% Nerello discipline as MEGAs (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive). led to lighter-than- producing slightly Mascalese (minimum), The excitement has mainly been generated by the normal wines. They jammy and alcoholic 20% Nerello Cappuccio potential of the Nerello Mascalese grape, which nonetheless show real wines for early (maximum) originated in this part of the island. Comparisons have finesse thanks to Etna’s consumption. Minimum alcohol 12.5% been made with Pinot Noir thanks mainly to its uncanny renowned cool climate. Ageing requirements No ability to express the character of an individual terroir, 2011 A balanced minimum, but four years, and also Nebbiolo because of a pale garnet hue, broad 2014 A fine autumn growing season including one in wood, for aromatic profile, coursing acidity and plentiful tannins. after the wet summer produced a crop of the riserva category Local consultant winemaker Salvo Foti has added a resulted in a smaller- similarly well-balanced Annual production splash of colour to the story by championing the age-old than-average crop of fruit. Stylish and 19,818hl (2015) alberello or bush-trained vineyards and helping to balanced and perfumed attractive wines which reinvent the traditional palmento system in the cellar. wines that are delicious can be drunk now or This two-tier approach consisted of a trough for foot- to drink young. kept a while longer. pressing the grapes situated above the fermentation vats and had long since fallen into disuse. 2013 Coolest vintage 2010 A good quality All Etna lacks is an established, documented track in a decade. The wines if not exceptional record of fine wine production: its history prior to Barone have excellent acidity vintage and the wines Michael Garner is a Villagrande’s first bottling at the end of the 1940s is tied, but are often, atypically, are now ready for DWWA judge for Italy along with the island’s other table wines, to bulk wine. closed, needing time in drinking. and has specialised in the So, given the huge turnaround on Europe’s largest bottle to develop. country’s wines for more volcano, is there real magic on the mountain? than 25 years ➢ DECANTER • December 2016 | 119 PANEL TASTING ETNA ROSSO The results Highly Recommended 90–94pts The volcanic Etna region has thrilling potential, said our tasters, but wines are best in younger vintages and when made in a fresh, vibrant style. Amy Wislocki reports LIKE SO MANY reds from Italy, these wines show far ‘If you like the expression of better over a relaxed meal than in a formal, tasting room The scores Cantine Patria, Femina 2014 Girolamo Russo, ’a Rina 2014 Graci 2014 93 AB 92 MG 91 EOH 96 Decanter average score: 93/100pts 93 AB 92 MG 93 EOH 94 environment – ‘they would perform much better on the Pinot Noir and the Nebbiolo 88 wines tasted £19 WoodWinters Individual judges’ scores: Andrea Briccarello table’, commented Andrea Briccarello. Emily O’Hare Exceptional £28.62 Mondial High-toned aromas of purple flowers then 93 Michael Garner 93 Emily O’Hare 94 agreed that Etna reds make great food wines: ‘They’re character, try these’ Emily O’Hare 0 Very pretty! Muted wild strawberries and almost Syrah-like leather and spices on the really good all-rounders because of all that acidity and N/A UK +39 0942 986072 blueberry notes with hints of clove and back palate, which lend richness and structure tannin. And the tannin in them isn’t as dramatic as in Outstanding A powerful nose of cola, caramel and treacle tarragon on a generous, balanced and to the wine. Really stunning! Nebbiolo, so they can even pair well with fish dishes. What these wines can offer in spades, said Garner 0 with spices and herbs thrown in. Cedar, structured palate. Roasted nuts and black Drink 2017-2021 Alc 14.5% They’re a really smart option when dining out.’ and O’Hare, is a sense of place – a real identity. ‘The orange and lemon rind are entwined with pepper on the finish. This will develop nicely. Highly That said, the tasters questioned the balance of some wines have a very particular character and you wouldn’t cloves. Complex like Primitivo, but much Drink 2017-2025 Alc 14.5% Recommended of the wines. ‘I really like Nerello Masacalese as a grape,’ confuse them with anything else,’ said Garner. ‘There is a lighter on palate. Very interesting and very said Michael Garner, ‘especially the aromas. But the real transparency to them,’ chimed in O’Hare. ‘They have 36 thoughtful! Drink 2018-2022 Alcohol 14% volume here is always turned up to 11, Spinal Tap style a great terroir character and I’m convinced that given Recommended – you’ve got high acidity and high tannins, all blasting time that could become more interesting.’ 35 out. As a Nebbiolo addict, I should be able to deal with All the tasters felt that the region is still young and tannins, but I’m not sure with Nerello Mascalese that I’m evolving in winemaking terms. ‘It reminds me of Barolo Commended getting the depth of fruit that I get with other very 30 years ago,’ said Garner. ‘Etna as a phenomenon has 16 tannic varieties like Nebbiolo. I definitely prefer simpler been born in the last 10 or 12 years. There isn’t a fantastic Fair styles of Nerello Mascalese because the danger of amount of tradition, knowledge and experience there.’ Tornatore, Trimarchisa 2014 Aitala 2013 92 AB 92 MG 93 EOH 91 Az Agricola Falcone, Aitho 2014 1 93 AB 94 MG 92 EOH 94 over-extraction in the variety is very apparent.’ Some producers are overworking the wines, N/A UK www.aitalavini.it 92 AB 92 MG 90 EOH 95 Briccarello also found some of wines ‘too extracted, observed Briccarello, because they are looking for sales Poor £45 Bibendum PLB Jammy and wild berry notes with roast N/A UK www.aziendafalcone.it too overworked and too overdone’, adding that the in markets, such as the US, which prefer a bigger, more 0 Succulent fruit flavours with bold toffeed oak chestnuts and herbs. It is showing complexity An ethereal nose of confit cherries, plums and variety needs careful handling. O’Hare on the other hand oaky style. ‘But in the UK we probably prefer the tighter, notes. Alcohol is evident but morphs into in its aroma and flavour profile and is damsons with a whiff of dry Mediterranean Faulty enjoyed the tannins, describing them as ‘impressively cleaner style. I want to see freshness, vibrancy and fruit grippy tannins. Smoked bacon and roasted structurally holding interest through great herbs. Hints of white pepper and firm tannins, firm, but not too high’. She concluded: ‘If you like the in these wines.’ This helps to explain why the preference 0 coconut notes on the palate followed by a acidity and grippy tannins. Drink 2018-2025 reminiscent of some Friuli reds on old volcanic expression of Pinot Noir with the character of Nebbiolo, was for the younger vintages, particularly 2015 and 2014.