Lasencia: Noble, Bold and Haughty
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Plasencia: Noble, Bold and Haughty “...between her green cliffs and valleys were solemn oak groves in repose, and every so often, cork trees showed their naked trunks...” (Miguel de Unamuno) A lthough it cannot be entirely proven, Plasencia was likely born LASENCIA under the protection of her geographical surroundings, P And Its Parador fortuitously but intelligently defended by her own preferences. Some two centuries before our era, it was a fortified town. Little more than a camp, it soon became Roman, and then “Romanized.” The invading legions designed strategic routes to travel the peninsula. The Via de la Plata road passed though this area, to its benefit. This route continues to cross the Iberian Peninsula from north to south like a backbone. It is still known as the “frontier of Portugal,” a living memory of past centuries. The imperial legions had many reasons for designing a well laid-out network of roads (covering close to 30,000 kilometers) to establish stopping places and inns in the most strategic spots. The Via de la Plata would be one the most profitable and well-used routes in the empire. From southern Huelva continuous caravans departed for Extremadura and Galicia, laden down with slaves and military equipment. Some went in search of the silver and gold which the mountains and rivers offered in such abundant quantities that they could easily supply the immense empire’s huge demands. In passing, the new foreign neighbors sowed these and other many lands with welcome cultures, technologies, new and better ways and customs, arts and handicrafts, laws, and engineering developments. They razed Iberian settlements and destroyed Celtic forts, but they also built towns and cities. They invented aqueducts, designed circuses and amphitheaters, and implemented the lex romana, from which the Western world still continues to derive great benefit today. In short, they invented what is now known as Western culture, which has long flowed through this lovely, surprising, proud, and noble Extremaduran city: the universal town of Plasencia. An indication of this can be seen in the coat of arms of these eccentric, intelligent, surprising, generous and delightful landscapes and people, where the motto is simply stated for all eternity: “Ut placeat deo et ómnibus” (For the pleasure of God and Man). This town – first no more than a camp and soon a proud city – was founded by the king of the Castiles, Alfonso VIII, not long before the dawn of the 13th century. The visitor will soon realize that this “noblest of cities” was born to quarrelsome parents and rebellious inhabitants. Today it still boasts watchtowers, defensive walls, and gates that were opened and closed according to the degree of trust or suspicion which the stranger merited. Those were times of feared invasions, of sacking and pillaging and struggles between Moors and Christians, alternately conquerors and conquered. PLASENCIA AND ITS PARADOR 1 At that time this proud fortress had up to seventy towers and eight gates, Until the monastery could be completed, the members of the order which “could be locked up tight or left wide open,” according to the worked and prayed next to the parish church of San Miguel in what noble intentions, sympathies, or propriety of the stranger. would become Santo Domingo el Viejo. It would live under the protection of the crowns of the Castilian monarchies until almost the middle of the 15th century. At that time From its early days, in the final third of the 15th century (1477), the King Juan II granted it to Pedro de Zuñiga as a countship to repay pious community undertook intense and feverish work in Christian favors done by the nobleman. The meritorious lord was master of lives teaching and education, in compliance with the express order of the and lands in these and other extensive areas. duchess: “...thus I order that five of the members who inhabit the monastery In that Spain Moors, Jews, and Christians successfully coexisted. The dedicate themselves exclusively to theological study.” For these three cultures came together in an intelligent symbiosis, beneficial to all. purposes a lecture room and income for maintenance and other Plasencia became an important nucleus for much beneficial Jewish expenses were provided. knowledge. Afterwards, private charitable donations were received. Some were of Perhaps it would be wise to recall here that local acceptance of the untold value, such as that made by Rodrigo Ignacio de Carvajal y Jewish population would be fostered by King Nieto when he gave the monastery a singular Alfonso VIII through a statue promulgated in and invaluable library made up of close to 1189. There are records showing that in the three thousand volumes, an unusual treasure 15th century the Jewish population of for those times. The monastery would come Plasencia numbered some one thousand to have two theology lecture rooms, one for inhabitants. They met to pray, speak, do art and philosophy courses. business, or conspire in an important synagogue in a place known as La Mota. The “Convento de Santo Domingo” Virtually the same exact site is today Parador is an architectural complex occupied by the Palace of the Marquis of dating from the end of the 15th century. Mirabel, and the Dominican Monastery of The monastery would also be occupied by San Vicente, today a Parador. the priests of Corazón de María. Following many ups and downs, it would end up in an unfortunate state of neglect until it was recovered, painstakingly rehabilitated, and transformed into this lovely and exceptional site for the visitor’s enjoyment. The Parador: These walls, patios, and noble rooms were built atop what was once La Mota, an ancient fortress. Dazzling Monastery The site has also been occupied by a synagogue of Santo Domingo and Jewish cemetery, as archeological investigation has shown. The careful excavations have even brought to light artifacts from prior to the foundation of the city by the royal decree of Alfonso VIII. Among the valuable pieces I n the mid-15th century, Álvaro de Zúñiga determined to which have appeared are a pointer for reading from the synagogue, expropriate these and other properties to build what became and numerous fragments of Jewish votive lamps. a pious monastery. To do so, it was necessary to tear down the synagogue and other neighboring buildings. Work on this magnificent monastery was directed and carried out by the master stone mason Pedro González, with the valuable assistance The traveler shares the walls and rooms of this exceptional site with of his son Francisco and the master craftsmen Malueñes, Daras, and the holy and not so holy Dominican friars who inhabited the building García Escalante. by the express and generous will of the Count and Countess of Zúñiga, Don Álvaro and Doña Leonor de Pimentel. The founding The monastery complex acts as a sort of pious and protective barrier charter reads as follows: enclosing the church which, owing to its magnificence, appears almost to be a cathedral. The temple is reached through a large 17th-century “I, Doña Leonor, Duchess of the city of Plasencia, with the license neoclassical façade. However, access to the monastery complex is from and consent of my lord, the Duke, have founded a monastery of the the west, through an awe-inspiring 18th-century portico. The order of our father Saint Domingo in honor of and with reverence to porticoed area, which precedes a beautiful large patio, displays an Saint Vincent of the Preachers, who receives my singular devotion.” amazing coffered ceiling (of the grisaille type), patiently and intelligently crafted between the 15th and 16th centuries. It was The noble devotion and gratitude was due to Saint Vincent Ferrer, as originally installed in the central crossing of the cell area. he had miraculously managed to resuscitate the only male child of the duke and duchess. The beautifully-proportioned cloister is late Gothic. Above part of the southwest corner of the ground floor, the visitor can admire significant remnants of a polychrome coffered ceiling in the Mudejar style. On the PLASENCIA AND ITS PARADOR 2 upper floor, paintings feature the coat of arms of the Dominicans of the Zúñiga-Pimentel family, and even an allegory of death, all dating from the 16th century. The walls are decorated with engraved enamel restored in the 19th century, a faithful reproduction of the original 16th- century design. The staircase is like an agile spell cast over the heavy ashlar. The workmanship is as lovely as it is awe-inspiring, given the generous size. The structure defies building principles with improbable and mysterious supports. Not for nothing is it known as the “Staircase of the Air.” This magnificent display was created by the Plasencia master Juan Alvarez (1577). So remarkable is the structure that it merits the Malevolent and venial tongues would tell that the expulsion of the wonder and admiration of lay visitors and architectural scholars alike. Jesuits ordered by King Carlos III in the mid-18th century was celebrated in these winey depths with rejoicing and festivities, The chapterhouse and de profundis chapel inspires respect and including the generous consumption of exquisite viands. reverence. It lies below star-ribbed vaults built in the 15th century. The monastery contains two large halls: on the lower floor the refectory, dating from the 16th century, displays a magnificent frieze From The Parador: of polychrome tiles from Talavera, above which is the library. Both Remembrance Of Things generously proportioned rooms boast excellent coffered ceilings. Past Another area which will likewise catch the visitor’s eye is the western façade overlooking the large patio, which corresponds to the exterior “...Among rocks sheathed in green, gazing at itself in the Jerte, of the refectory and library.