MUSIC HATH CHARMS – ART SEEN IN A NEW SETTING

Four young musicians from the Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama gave a recital in the Gallery on Sunday, October 17. Scottish-born mezzo soprano Laura Margaret Smith, currently working for her masters degree, has gained several scholarships and appears on the concert platform THE NEWSLETTER OF THE GLASGOW ART CLUB WINTER 2010 No. 34 and in the opera house. Violinist Rachel Spencer (at back) has led both the RSAMD’s chamber and string President’s column orchestras and last year took part in a tour of Scotland. Laura Gabriella Gemesi, viola, has performed chamber Wanted – the next music in her native Hungary, Britain, , , Norway and Indonesia. Japanese pianist Ayako Kanazawa, an hundred members accomplished accompanist, has been engaged as a repetiteur for Scottish The most significant development since the last edition Opera in 2011. has been the successful completion of the Drawing Room project on budget and on time. My thanks to Paul Dowds and Connie Simmers and everyone else including our professional advisers and the contractors who made it happen – not least our Trustees who enabled it to be financed. If you have not yet had a look at this new facility please do. It is a handsome addition to our accommodation and makes superb use of a redundant space. It will replace the Peter Graham’s A Morning Room Study Gallery for the duration of its Peter Graham writes: refurbishment but in the meantime is a Planning for the future space from which we must generate Over the last year I was fortunate to income. Council proposes if at all have been granted permission to possible to reserve the revenue earned LAURA produce a series of paintings at the The artist John Mackechnie with his wife to compensate for the loss from not Garrick Club in Covent Garden. Since Sue at the opening exhibition. being able to host the larger functions BRINGS it is one of our reciprocal clubs, during the refurbishment period. A NEW members of the Glasgow Art Club can An ongoing issue is that our frequent this illustrious establishment recruitment of new members is just LOOK when in . The Garrick has a sufficient to compensate for deaths wonderful theatrical tradition with Welcome to the Drawing Room and resignations. I would like to A new face will be seen in the Club many members coming from the world The new first-floor Drawing Room (which used to be the billiard room) was increase the membership by 100 net. most Thursdays and Fridays. Laura of the stage. formally inaugurated in September with an exhibition of photo and digital-prints Council will be embarking on a Donnelly has been recruited on a part- From my paintings the Garrick Club by John Mackechnie, director of the Glasgow Print Studio – images seen to significant marketing strategy for new time basis to help boost the Club’s expressed an interest in A Morning advantage in the bright ambience of the room, complementing and contrasting members and to sell our facilities. If we marketing. Her primary aim will be to Room Study (above) which I was with the members’ Autumn Exhibition in the Gallery a floor below. Pictured had that extra subscription income increase membership, and beyond that delighted to donate for their above: Sheriff Iain Macmillan declaiming in best senatorial style at the dinner and the revenue new members would to devise fund-raising schemes and to collection. bring we could transform what we raise public awareness of the Club and This watercolour shows the entrance held to mark the opening of the new space. Right: scenes from the private view. A scene from the opening show could offer. what it stands for. She says that an to the Morning Room flanked by a Our sister club in , the important aspect of her work will be bust of Sir Squire Bancroft, who ran Pittendrigh Scottish Arts Club, which was heading programming events for both Club the Haymarket Theatre in London (continued from page 7) CONGRATULATIONS... for closure, has just done precisely members and outside organisations, from 1880. The white marble bust was An ardent Scot, Pittendrigh spoke …to Robert Kelsey on being awarded standing in the community and his that. With a much more handsome including corporate events. More exhibited at the Royal Academy in lowland Scots vernacular, writing poetry, the honorary degree, Master of the achievement in art, but also his property in Bath Street I cannot believe prominent use of the Club logo is also 1881. essays and plays in this tongue. He wrote University of the West of Scotland, contribution to charity through the that what Edinburgh has done likely – for example it will be The bench seen on the right-hand songs and played them on a violin made earlier this year at a ceremony in gift of paintings, by which he has Glasgow cannot match or better. displayed on the windows facing Bath side, with carved ornamentation in the by his own hands. Hugh MacDiarmid Paisley. This recognises not only his raised many thousands for various All members have their part to play. Street. Marketing will be active but Greek style, belonged to the poet admired his writing and the two were charitable organisations. Robert has Please sell the Club and its facilities to not ‘in-your-face’, in keeping with the Byron and was among his possessions linked in the Scottish Renaissance been a member of Glasgow Art Club your friends and encourage them to character of the Club – ‘No neon at Missolonghi. movement. for more than twenty years, serving on join. lights,’ she says. The Chippendale-style chair in the Elected to the Royal Scottish Academy its council and for two years recently Laura, who is 24, has been working centre of the painting, one of a pair, in 1901, Ll.D in 1909, Pittendrigh as honorary secretary. part-time with the Prince and Princess belonged to the actor Sir Henry Irving, became King’s Sculptor in Ordinary for He graduated at Glasgow School of of Wales hospice in Glasgow, where the first actor to be awarded a Scotland in 1921. He died in 1938 and Art in 1970, and after a spell in Bon appetit! she has a similar remit. Born and bred knighthood. He was one of the first was buried in Edinburgh, his home for education he became a full-time artist in Glasgow, she is a graduate of actor managers of the British stage, many years. In an obituary, James in 1995. He exhibits regularly with, Glasgow firm En Croute has taken Strathclyde University and has a supervising sets, lighting, direction and Pittendrigh Macgillivray was acclaimed amongst others, the RGI and Paisley over catering services for the Club. degree in French and Spanish. She also casting as well as playing the leading as being ‘in the front rank of Brisith There will be new faces in the kitchen runs her own online business for hand- roles. He is thought to have been the sculpture of all time’. Art Institute. Last year he was elected a fellow of the Royal Society of Arts. but our own management staff will made wedding and greetings inspiration for the Bram Stoker continue to provide cheerful service. stationery. character Dracula! 8 CLUB NEWS Full house celebrates the life Stagestruck and Coming events The winter exhibition of members’ of Jimmy working for Bridie work (opening on Saturday, December 4 at 12.30) runs until January 15. In the last issue of the Newsletter I went to see shows and plays in the A recital by the Song Studio of the Robertson recalled how I became secretary to Dr Glasgow theatres, and then hurried back RSAMD is scheduled for the afternoon Mavor – otherwise ‘James Bridie’ – and to Buchanan Street where I typed my of Sunday, December 12, preceded by my rather unusual interview for the post, notices on yellow copy paper and optional lunch from 12.30. The popping of champagne corks gave when we sang the 30th Paraphrase handed them to the sub-editors, who It’s party time on Friday, December 17 a fine introduction to the Art Club’s together – ‘Come, let us to the Lord our turned my prosy sentences into – ‘7.30 till late’. Victorian fancy dress evening of commemoration of Jimmy God…’ The job turned out, as I said at something short and snappy. But the is welcome but not essential. Actor Robertson on October 15. The Gallery the end, to be ‘a remarkable experience’. smell of printers’ ink was getting to me. James Bridie – detail from a painting in John Cairney is billed to appear, but in was full and the mood relaxed but I was nineteen at the time, not long Dr Mavor’s plans for the Citizens’ the Club’s collection, hanging in the reception room. Bridie just manages to what guise? Something Dickensian, sharp enough to respond with arrived in the big city from Oban, and Theatre were well advanced by the time perhaps. A feast from the buffet is unsure of myself. He was the same age as I came to work for him. He was keek into Robert Eadie’s painting of a acclamation to president Raymond Glasgow street scene on a rainy day promised, plus parlour games and Williamson’s invitation to applaud my father; an established author with determined that Glasgow should have a carols by candlelight. What frolics! Jimmy’s work, and his stature in and plays running in the West End. He had theatre where the best modern plays served in the First World War, for would be performed – even in war-time. Looking ahead to the new year, contribution to the Glasgow Art Club. A presence at the festivities – Jimmy heaven’s sake. Yet this distinguished man So he and George Singleton and Tom George Devlin will give a fund-raising As the Club bent to its supper so did PITTENDRIGH’S Robertson, modelled by Robin Hume chose to take an interest in a callow Honeyman and others put their heads demonstration of his art on Saturday, the decibels rise, and as the food was youth like me. together, and the theatre opened on January 8. Brunch will be served at 11, enjoyed so did they rise and rise again THE NAME October 11, 1943, in the old Athenaeum painting demo for afters at 1.30. until lip-reading became the easier way On Friday, January 21, an exhibition teacher, for a good companion and building with one of Bridie’s own plays, to converse. past president, and of course, a family Iain Macmillan Norma Farquhar hails a man of many of the RGI’s drawing competition Holy Isle, with Duncan Macrae in the talents in her latest essay on the history Distinguished guests, members of man – the decibels were still rising recalls the happiest cast. opens. Jimmy’s family and members of the of Glasgow Art Club ‘A blast o’ Janwar win’ /Blew hansel when the evening closed. My boss was busy with the organising Club sat in a Gallery full of Robertson days of his youth On visiting the recent exhibition The in on Robin’ – but our Burns supper Ian Melville of the theatre, so two or three days a major works which emphasised the Glasgow Boys at Kelvingrove you may will be held on Friday, February 4. week we would travel by bus from his artist’s philosophy of painting and his have noted two plaques by James Look for details later. I sat at a big desk and typed his latest house in Bearsden to the Glasgow Art love of colour and colour contrasts. play, or his latest article, or his latest Club where he had meetings with his Pittendrigh Macgillivray, the only After dinner Katie, Jimmy’s step- Author, author! letter to Bernard Shaw, or whoever, from colleagues. I had no part in these, of sculptor associated with the Glasgow New members daughter, recalled her early memories his dictation straight on to an old course, so instead I walked to the school of painters. Just as the ‘Boys’ of family holidays and of her father’s (times three) fashioned Remington, while he lolled Athenaeum and lent a hand there. I rebelled against established Victorian We welcome the following new ‘impractibility’ (in everything bar back in his big chair. Sometimes I helped to count the petty cash. I went painters, Pittendrigh (as he preferred to members (category in brackets): painting!) and of the fun and humour Three members of Glasgow Art Club couldn’t resist coming out with what behind the stage and helped to paint the be known) sought to establish a forward that abounded in the Robertson home. have published books recently. Two seemed the obvious next line, and he scenery. I listened to the actors rehearse movement in sculpture, free from Anthony Hamilton (artist) Then Leon Morrocco, who had come appeared in October, Edna would say, ‘That’s good, Iain. Just put and marvelled at their talk of first nights tradition, showing energy, emotion, Alice McMurrough (artist) to Glasgow to join the Art School staff Robertson’s fine biography of a that in’. So I can claim that some of and last nights and theatre intrigue. And mood and character. Dr Alastair Ross (artist) in 1968, applied his ‘retrospectoscope’ remarkable medical man who made a Bridie’s lines were mine. Not many! I dreamed my own dreams. Born in Inverurie in 1856, the son of a sculptor, Pittendrigh trained in sculpture Eve Leonard (young artist) to life at the school, the Glasgow name for himself in Africa before And he would talk to me about far away The programme was a folded sheet of and ornamental plasterwork from the Frank To (young artist) atelier, mentioning well-remembered returning to Glasgow, Christie of places like Baku and Samarkand, or cardboard, all that could be managed in age of thirteen. Later he assisted the Paul Kennedy (young artist) about queer religions or ancient myths, the stringent conditions of war-time. It names – Donaldson, Goudie, Squire, Zanzibar: Medical Pathfinder (Argyll, Glasgow architect James Mossman Hamish Clark (architect) and about Frazer’s Golden Bough. And I gave the cast list and a brief description Thomson and Duncan Shanks, etc. He £14.99), and Lesley Duncan’s wry and before becoming an independent John Cunningham (architect) read the theatre returns which came in of the play. There was a lovely footnote recalled how Jimmy hated ‘tight witty Images Not Icons: Poems for sculptor in 1879. He joined Glasgow Art Brian McArthur (architect) weekly with the audience numbers, and I that read – ‘In the event of an air raid the painting and lines’ and pursued his Our Times (Kennedy & Boyd, £9.99) Club as an artist member in 1882. He Kae Tinto (lay, town) leafed through the casting books with performance will continue. If you wish own free style that we admire today. – some of which will already be was twenty-six years old. John Cairney (lay, town) He remembered too the parallel life of familiar to members. pictures of Alastair Sim and Robert to leave, please do so as quietly as Paul A Reid (lay, town) First of the Glasgow Boys to join was E the art school band with Jimmy on the Edna’s book, her third (‘my swan Donat. And of course I dreamed of possible’. Later on, when the theatre was A Walton in 1878. Between then and Alex Norton (lay, country) drum kit, and produced a snippet of a song’ as she called it bravely at the becoming a famous playwright, like him. established, I wrote the programme 1892 twenty-one more of the Boys Hugo Brown (lay, country) recording, possibly the one with the book launch shortly before her death), My father was always telling me tales of notes myself, no doubt encouraged by joined Glasglow Art Club as artist Sheriff Colin Miller (lay, country) visiting Johnny Dankworth band. follows the career of James Christie, a life in the villages up north, where he had my boss. members. Although Joseph Crawhall Dorothy Hoskins (lay, country) Even more decibels at this point. graduate of Glasgow University who worked, and I told Dr Mavor some of I never became an author. I don’t lived at a distance from Glasgow and Donald Campbell (lay, corporate) Roger Billcliffe spoke seriously about trained for the ministry before them. suppose Dr Mavor ever thought I would, Arthur Melville travelled constantly, they ‘You should write a play, Iain,’ he said. but it was not for lack of encouragement Alasdair Morrison (lay, corporate) Jimmy’s contribution to painting in becoming a doctor. He spent nine were both frequent guests at the Club. ‘You’re good at dialogue’. by this wonderful, kind man. Suzan Malcolm (renewal) Glasgow and the west of Scotland, years in Zanzibar, where he pioneered Pittendrigh continued his career So of course I wrote a play. In one act. In March 1944 I received another kind commenting on his prodigious ouput methods of treating cholera – work for producing architectural sculptures for He said it was excellent, and he sent it to of notice. This one told me to report for of ‘painting from the heart rather than which he gained worldwide Glasgow buildings, including the City Keep in touch his friend Paul Vincent Carroll, who service in the RAF. On a fine spring the head’, of painting of emotion of recognition – acted as the sultan’s Chambers and monuments for The Newsletter would like to hear from wrote Shadow and Substance. Mr morning I made my way to Dr Mavor’s Glasgow’s Necropolis and other mood, and revealing what was a little medical officer and became acquainted Carroll sent it back, saying he had house for the last time, and with a heavy you. If you have an idea for an article, difficult to believe, namely that with Livingstone and Stanley. cemeteries. His first important public short item, anecdote or picture which you enjoyed the story, but he didn’t think the heart. I remember lingering by the fence, work was the statue of Robert Burns at painting for Jimmy was a constant James Macaulay’s lavishly illustrated think would interest readers, please contact young author was quite ready to be let admiring the dewdrops glistening on the Irvine in Ayrshire, 1895. There followed struggle, and that he had to persevere study Charles Rennie Mackintosh us at [email protected] or loose on the public! cobwebs in the early sunshine, and I the statues of Lord Byron in Aberdeen, phone 0141 248 5210 and ask for the Club in meeting the constant challenge of (Norton, £42) was published in June. Then the next thing was that he rang up thought about the time I had spent with the third Marquis of Bute in Cardiff, the secretary. Or write to the Newsletter at the the canvas. Also published this summer: a Colin Milne, the chief dramatic critic of him, how kind he had been to me, and bronze of John Knox in St Giles, Club. The serious moment was registered, monograph on George Devlin’s life the Glasgow Herald, and asked him to how much I had learned. I thought then Edinburgh, and the large-scale and passed, and the company turned and art, A Brush with Life, by Thierry let me do some theatre notices. And that these eight months had been the monument to William Gladstone, Printed by Reproprint to the happier business of celebration – Gardie (Scottish Gallery/Portland Tel: 0141 440 1919 Colin Milne did! During that winter I happiest time of my life. Edinburgh, 1902, considered to be his Email: [email protected] of the life of a supreme artist and Gallery, £25). masterpiece. 2 7 (continued on page 8) OBITUARIES INTERNATIONAL MUSICIANS DINE AT THE CLUB

In memory of a fine writer, and a much-loved keeper of this house On September 8 the Club president Raymond Williamson, who is also honorary president of the Scottish Edna functions for outside organisations. International Piano Competition, a She was brilliant at this. Of course a triennial event held in Glasgow which real plus was that she attracted around attracts young talent from around the Robertson her a loyal staff, who both loved and world, hosted a supper party for respected her. Many of these stayed in members of the board and the jury. Edna Robertson, who died on contact when she left the Club, and The Club was accordingly visited by a November 9 at the age of 75, was a visited her in her new home in number of distinguished pianists and long-serving stalwart of the Club. She Hyndland, where she held many most composers including Sally Beamish, joined in 1988, just four years after enjoyable social gatherings. women were admitted to membership. Thea Musgrave, Norika Ogawa In her new home she was surrounded (), Alfredo Perl (), Arnaldo At that time she was a full-time by paintings and drawings by artist journalist, but after she left the Herald Cohen (Brazil), and Susan Tombes members, bringing her many happy (Scotland). The chairman of the board she was able to play a more active part memories, especially of the fireside of the competition, Baillie Liz in GAC activities. In the early 2000s gang whom she used to recall fondly. Cameron, was also present. she served on the Club council and She also enjoyed her garden. helped to edit the Newsletter. Although very organised, she was All were mightily impressed by the A committed Glaswegian, Edna always fun to work with. I experienced Gallery and appreciated the followed a history degree from opportunity to escape from listening to Guests from the Scottish International Piano Competition, left to right: Robert Love, this first- hand when, with an Thea Musgrave, Alfredo Perl and Norika Agawa Glasgow University with post- Edna Robertson – a happy moment at important function only an hour away yet more piano music and relax in graduate study at Michigan State her book launch in October and a member of staff unwell, she rang wonderful surroundings and enjoy University. She joined the then me out of the blue. I dashed from my conversation over food and wine. Glasgow Herald, working up from the The Glasgow Boys go south library to become chief leader writer fields – even, to her amusement (and and an assistant editor. She travelled pride) appearing on the sports front COMMENT IN Kailyards have uneasy connotations in of high-bourgeois suburban life. In a for the paper, writing informed page with a football report from a Victorian literary context. Happily sense, though, these are the exceptions features on India, China and Zaire at a Africa. Once, reporting in America, THE PRESS not so in a painterly one. There are, in theme. And after relishing the time when these lands were opening she was subjected to a terrifying knife nonetheless, rather a lot of cabbages Glasgow Boys’ ability to celebrate the up to the West. She kept a special attack – but, being Edna, fought back. A review of the recent Group of Six on view at London’s Royal Academy predominantly rural with interest in the USA and covered several Off duty we shared a passion for the exhibition in the Art Club appeared in where the Glasgow Boys exhibition unsentimental skill and freshness and presidential elections. hills. Summer and winter (I have seen the arts section of the Herald on has transferred from Kelvingrove. painterly flair, is one disloyal to She wrote three books, the first a her glasses sprinkled with snow on Saturday, November 6. The critic Jan Take the space-bullet glass lift to the harbour a certain disappointment? history of Yorkhill hospital (1973) some ben or other) she was a doughty Patience was taken with Shona Barr’s top floor of the building and you find These accomplished artists were living which led to an interest in key figures walker – the adjective serves for her ‘luscious colour applied with gusto’ yourself in the Sackler Wing of the RA in a Glasgow at the peak of its in Glasgow’s medical history. Her life. and sensed ‘an almost sepulchral feel’ where the exhibition is mounted. It’s industrial power and influence, when Glasgow’s Doctor (1998) traced the in Hazel Nagl’s work which, she most pleasurable to meet up with its shipyards and locomotive works life of the city’s first MOH. Twelve wrote, displayed ‘confidence and familiar canvases in this metropolitan were turning out heroic products of years later her Christie of Zanzibar softness’. She was attracted by Jennifer setting. And, it must be said, the airy heavy engineering that briefly gave the appeared. By then she was gravely ill, Ann Parker Irvine’s ‘subtle depiction of light and gallery spaces are probably kinder to city global pre-eminence. One would but with characteristic determination shade’ – and, indeed, had praise for the works than the subterranean never guess it from these largely she gathered the strength to speak at Ann Parker, who has died at the age of the work of all six (Liz Knox, Delny reaches of Kelvingrove. bucolic scenes. the book launch, a triumphantly 75, was housekeeper at Glasgow Art Goalen and Connie Simmers were the The background material is generous The Glasgow Boys obviously felt no happy occasion enjoyed by many of Club for seventeen years from 1983 to others). She noted that Connie had Ann Parker – fun to be with in acknowledging the Boys’ impact on compulsion to be recorders of their her good friends. January 2000. been the first woman to break the all- the wider European scene of their day times - perhaps because they had no Edna’s personal reserve and She came to the Club from the male barrier of Club membership back (‘Taking inspiration from such French first-hand experience of industrial impatience with any woolly thinking Rogano restaurant, where she had in 1983, and she rounded off her bath to the phone, to be asked if I had Naturalistic painters as Bastien- work, though many of their patrons were balanced by her warm generosity been manager. Throughout her time column by inviting the public to ‘ring a white shirt and pair of black trousers Lepage and also from Whistler, the must have built their fortunes on such. and concern for people and animals. with the Club she lived in what was the bell and ask to see’ the exhibition – handy. I had, and so found myself at Glasgow Boys produced some of the Maybe they were quite deliberately She loved the open air, gardening and the flat on the second floor – now a helpful piece of advice to the public the Club polishing glasses and most revolutionary painting in Britain, escapist. hill-walking, and enjoyed nothing converted to other uses – where her in view of the Club’s current low-key silverware in a panic of preparations. drawing praise in London, , Better, however, to cherish the more than a good heated discussion merry parties were memorable. presence in Bath Street. After that I handed around glasses of Vienna and further afield.’) treasures the Boys left behind than with congenial companions over a James Macaulay remembers her as a champagne – rather wanting a tipple It’s not an identical exhibition to lament theoretical ones. They brought lengthy meal. She will be sadly missed. persuasive manager in occasionally The Glasgow Boys exhibition which myself, but of course I never did. Kelvingrove’s, but there are many prestige to Glasgow in international Jean Reid difficult times, and her elegant That came later, when all the guests has opened in London (see this page) presence at Club functions. received a lengthy review in The favourites to be relished. For me these cultural circles in their day. Perhaps had departed. Indeed, at the end of a include James Paterson’s tranquil this London showing may have the John Fowler writes: I got to know and Guardian on Saturday, October 30, function, when all the furniture had canvases of Moniaive and Autumn in same effect again. admire Edna when I joined the Herald Dai Vaughan writes: We first got to prompting this response in the paper’s been put back in place, and everything Glencairn, the central white river in Lesley Duncan in what old-stagers now regard as a know Ann through our daughter Lucy letters page. It was signed John tidied, Ann enjoyed having a bit of a the latter pulling the eye into the golden age. Though she was a star of working at the Art Club. Jenny and I Carnegie, Glasgow: drink and a singsong, particularly Irish distant hills. Arthur Melville’s the paper she was less known to the were immediately struck by how ‘I was fascinated by the article about folk songs. wondrous use of watercolour seems, Prizewinner readership than some writers because glamorous she was, and how good she the Glasgow Boys exhibition opening She was a wonderful, warm hearted as always, to be pushing forward the Artist member Patricia Cain has leader columns carry no byline. was at dealing with people. in London. However, it would have lady who our whole family loved very possibilities of the medium, whether in received this year’s Threadneedle Editorial conferences were enlivened We soon became aware of how good been much more helpful to be able to much. We are happy to have known Mediterranean crowd scenes or just in Visual Arts prize, worth £25,000, for by her tenacious left-of-centre views. she was at juggling the wishes of the read it when the same exhibition her and be counted amongst her the intensity of the colour he achieves, her Building the Riverside Museum – a Though leader writing was her metier members with the need to generate opened here in Glasgow, earlier this friends. as in The Sapphire Sea. John Lavery pastel work showing Glasgow’s new she could move confidently in other revenue for the Club, by holding year.’ with his Tennis Party offers a glimpse transport museum under construction. 6 3 If it’s Friday it must be Ravenna

This autumn a group from the Marjory Gray, one of our group, a member of the Hallé chorus who has Club spent a hectic week of sung at the Club’s Burns suppers, sang cultural discovery in the north of the Eriskay Love Lilt. The church was Italy. JOHN HAMILTON and full of tourists of a dozen nationalities but they all stood in rapt silence as the JAMES BANKIER kept diaries melody added to the magic of the of the trip building. Marjory, Charles Anderson’s ‘wee sister’, with her rich contralto TUESDAY voice, made our visit the highlight of the week. JH: Our Hotel, the Porta San Mamolo turned out to be comfortable, SATURDAY although some rooms were treated to impromptu serenades as the restaurant Weather chilly, wet and windy, a opposite skailed at one in the morning. forestaste of autumn, even in Italy. By Dinner – arranged in advance – a very bus to Ferrara, stopping first at the A quiet corner – the leafy courtyard at the hotel in Bologna. Photo: Margaret Bankier good meal lubricated by the local Palazzo dei Diamante, the palace of Sangiovese wine which set the tone for the d’Este family, so called for the function as combined stable and used both the Palazzo Ducale and the the week. diamond-shaped stones of its walls, passion pad for the Gonzagas. Home Palazzo del Te and other parts of the now the site of the Pinacoteca – mainly again, to be passed by squads of city as well. The engine noise of the JB: Thanks to our table of twenty, the frescos salvaged from churches in the Ferraris and Porsches on the rally cars did not help lunchtime restaurant sounded exactly like a ‘The mosaics of the Emperor Justinian with his court and the Empress Theodora autostrada. conversation, but what a wonderful with her ladies…are surely some of the most compelling ever made.’ surrounding countryside, and works Glasgow Art Cub function. After that by early Renaissance painters. Next sight they were. first meal we did our own thing and – James Bankier’s observation in the Basilica di San Vitale, Ravenna. By happy coincidence Mantova had The above detail shows Theodora. Photo: Adrian Fletcher, paradoxplace.com. the Museo della Cattedrale, notable been shown on our TV screens only a small groups searched out restaurants for a beautiful 15th century Madonna MONDAY and compared notes afterwards. few days before we left Glasgow. This and a collection of illuminated choral wonderful production of Rigoletto A day of rest, recollection and leisurely books containing miniature depictions the world. Paintings by Giorgio souvenir and present hunting. WEDNESDAY THURSDAY of birds and animals of photographic Morandi at the Palazzo Communale, Ambling, window-shopping, stopping accuracy. After lunch, the cavernous 9am – Met by Daniella Bigatti, small, followed by a welcome release at the Free morning to enjoy sunshine and for coffee, postcard writing, meeting cathedral itself, with an apse painting slim, young and formidably well exuberant Fontano Nettuno, with four gracious Italian outdoor urban living. casually with others in the group, then informed, who led us briskly down a 2pm: Cross-city trek with Daniella at of the last judgment by Bastianino. back to base to pack for early start gentle slope into the light-infantry pace. Long galleries Next, the Castello Estense with tomorrow. centre of Bologna (not filled with permutations of Madonna dungeons of the better sort for so gentle when toiling and Child. Some fell out into café or prisoners of good family only. Back to TUESDAY back to the hotel at the bar, to rendezvous in the main square Bologna in our wee purple bus piloted end of the day). First at 6.15. A number of us dined at an through a rainstorm by our amiable Bus to airport, usual trek to Ryanair stop, the Basilica San excellent fish restaurant and driver who looked is if he had just check-in desk at outer limits of the Domenico, last resting discovered Brolettino, a delicious stepped out of a Quattrocento fresco. building – surprise, the plane’s almost place of St Dominic, the white wine. in time. On landing, bus to the Art The Thinker – Douglas Forbes, pondering magnificence of the SUNDAY Club door and a welcome by Naoimh below the statue of Savonarola in Ferrara. and crew with soup and sarnies. building internally and FRIDAY Glorious sunshine all day. A rapid Or is he just grateful for the rest? of his tomb, graced by Across the Po valley to Ravenna, last transit to Mantova (Mantua) to be met We left Italy wishing to see more – the three small satues by gesture of the western Roman empire, by the last of our guides, the delightful whole holiday was over too soon. Michelangelo, in a city of sublime artistic achievement Giuliana Varini, always smiling, who Charles Anderson, who was in charge interesting contrast to which has survived miraculously for introduced us to the town’s new statue throughout, deserves congratulations. the austerity of his life 1500 years: San Vitale, Sant’ of Rigoletto before moving on to the His ability to give a vote of thanks in and the unimpressive Apollinare, with the Mausoleum of Palazzo Ducale, home of the Gonzaga both English and Italian is impressive. exterior. Singer Marjory Gray charms her impromptu Galla Placidia as the climax. Our guide family for three hundred years, who This year’s trip will be hard to beat but Then to the Palazzo audience in the Basilica di San Vitale Verdiana Conti Baglione, a woman of eventually blew it financially. the search has already started for next dell’ Archinnasio, one mature years, charm, with a love and Labyrinthine ways culminated in the Alfresco refreshment in Bologna year’s destination – ideas please. of the oldest parts of Bologna statuesque mermaids expressing knowledge of buildings, mosaics and Camera degli Sposi, the superb ceiling university – the feature to note being copious jets of water from their breasts frescoes, set an easier pace – her first painted by Mantegna. Giuliana the 17th century Sala Anatomica, below a nude Neptune, brawny and action was to guide us to a café before directed us to a restaurant in the carefully reconstructed from materials well-endowed. Lunch followed by starting out. We admired her casual Piazza Broletto, from which we had a retrieved after destruction by Allied scrutiny of shops, cafés and bars dismissal of the hapless young man grandstand view of the Gran Premio bombing in the war. before return to hotel. who attempted to limit to ten minutes Nuvolari, an international event for The energetic Signorina Bigatti veteran and vintage cars from all over It should be admitted that after several our visit to the Mausoleum. somewhat reluctantly allowed a coffee the world, which aroused youthful hours walking cobbled streets, and comfort break of ten minutes, The guide told us in advance that we lusts and disinterred the not so latent climbing staircases, craning necks and stretched by the company to thirty, would get a surprise in the Basilica of adolescent in a surprising number of listening to information, it became then briskly off to the Basilica di San San Vitale. In every direction there are the company, mostly but not ever more difficult not to stop for a Petronio, said to be the fifth largest rich mosaics, naïve in execution but exclusively male. Finally the Palazzo coffee. church in the world, with a sundial at with an amazing impact. In the midst del Te with frescoes by Giulio Romano Not the men of the Art Club party waiting patiently for lunch, but a line-up of Sicilians 66.8 metres said to be the longest in of all this splendour came our surprise. alluding with little subtlety to its on holiday in Mantova. Photo: Charles Anderson

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