In the Steps of Cezanne

IN THE STEPS OF CEZANNE

2018 IN CEZANNE'S COUNTRY (1839 - 1906)

Paul Cezanne was passionately attached to Aix and his Provence, and summed his love up in a single sentence when he was away: ”When you’re born there, it’s hopeless, nothing else is good enough”. It was while walking in the Aix countryside as a teena- ger with Émile Zola that he realised he was an artist. The particular light of Provence guided him on his creative path to the threshold of abstraction. And it is in Aix-en-Provence and the surrounding area that you can share Cezanne's experience intensely today, as you visit the streets, places and landscapes that marked the life, the outlook and the work of the father of modern painting… ”the father of us all!” Picasso said.

2 | | 3 IN THE HEART OF AIX-EN-PROVENCE

The town is home to several precious historical sites which embody the mysteries surrounding Cezanne. For today’s visitor, forays into this emblematic painter’s universe include discove- ring the Cezanne's Studio on the old Lauves hill or exploring the open-air Bibémus quarries. Walk in the steps of Cezanne and visit the city as he expe- rienced it… A pedestrian route marked by studs stamped with a “C” allows you to discover the landmarks of his early years (the houses where he lived as a child, his schools, etc), the places that marked him, the addresses of his family and ac- quaintances, the cafés where he met his friends and other artists… From classical elegance to Baroque opulence, Aix’s architectural heritage is the setting for your walk in the old town and its surroundings.

turn to page 18 Clou Cezanne © J.C. CARBONNE Clou Cezanne © J.C. 2 | | 3 FROM AIX-EN-PROVENCE TO THE MEDITERRANEAN

To the east, discover the Sainte-Victoire Mountain by the Cezanne road: 75 km around the massif, leaving from Le Tholonet, with stops at the Trois Sautets Bridge (Meyreuil) and La Barque (Fuveau), other motifs of the painter. Magnificent panoramas of the mountain from Beaurecueil and Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon.

15 km to the south is Gardanne: Cezanne stayed there between 1885 and 1886. On the Frères hill, a path has been laid, dotted with reproductions of the paintings, showing the development of Cezanne's structural design. An open-air museum has been created at the spot where the artist worked. Beautiful view of the Sainte-Victoire Mountain from the path to the chapel of Notre- Dame-des-Maures.

30 km to the south is L’Estaque, where Cezanne worked and lived intermittently between 1864 and 1885. Here you will find some of his other sources of inspiration. From the Painters’ path, you can see the bay of Marseille, also immortalised by other artists, especially Braque, Derain and Dufy.

cezanne-en-provence.com/en/

”Aix-en-Provence, the city of Cezanne” Presentation of Cezanne sites on Google Open Gallery: tiny.cc/cezanne-googleopengallery

4 | | 5 AIX-EN-PROVENCE €10 GUIDED TOUR Free IN THE STEPS OF CEZANNE

1 April › 31 October Thursday | 10 am Look out for nails stamped with a “C” on the footpath to explore the city in Cezanne's footsteps... Your guide will have selected for you the most significant places to remember the painter of Aix.

Duration 2 hrs on foot Start Tourist Office Standard price €10 In case of closing of Cezanne room at the Granet Museum, consult our rates. Free under 7s and City Pass holders No telephone reservations Book at the Tourist Information desk and on: booking.aixenprovencetourism.com

4 | | 5 Beaurecueil and Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon. other panoramas of themountain from thePainters’path, Sainte-Victoire Mountainoppositeyou (photo)oradmire In theBibémusquarries, seethrough Cezanne’seyesat the cated tohimintheGranetMuseum. private world.Admire afewof hisworksinthespacededi- Open thedoorof theCezanne'Studio and entertheartist’s THE CEZANNESITES

Montagne Sainte-Victoire depuis les carrières de Bibémus © S.Spitéri

IN THE PAINTER’S PRIVATE WORLD L’ATELIER DE CEZANNE

9, avenue Paul Cezanne Atelier de Cezanne © Sophie SPITÉRI Atelier

This is Paul Cezanne’s only studio. Between 1902 and his death in 1906, the painter worked daily in this room flooded with light where dozens of pieces were created and now appear in the greatest museums in the world. The studio is no longer home to the artist’s paintings but instead to the quiet yet relentless painter’s belongings. Among them you will recognise pottery from his famous still-lifes, the mini plaster cupid next to his clothes and work tools…

You will learn why Paul Cezanne built the studio on this hill and how it was saved from hungry property developers…and you’ll see why there’s the vertical crack in the upstair’s wall, skulls laid amongst Provençal tiles… As any admirer of Cezanne knows, you can really feel the painter’s spirit here. The studio is home to a gift and book shop and regularly hosts temporary exhibitions.

8 | | 9 L'ATELIER DE CEZANNE €6,50 • Tour takes around 30 min Free • Capacity max. 18 people Reservation advised

INDIVIDUAL PRICES • Full price €6,50 | Reduced price €3,50 (13-25s) • Free under 13s, jobseekers, disabled people, Press, ICOM, tour guides (upon presentation of the relevant card) and City Pass holders. • Audioguide supplement €3

TICKETS • On sale on site, at Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office and on: booking.aixenprovencetourism.com • Fnac, Carrefour, Géant, Magasins U, Intermarché and on www.francebillet.com +33 (0) 892 684 694 (0.40€/mn). Full list of sales points: www.dispobillet.com No telephone reservations

GETTING THERE • Bus : no. 5, Cezanne stop and no. 12, Auriol stop +33 (0)9 70 80 90 13 www.aixenbus.fr • Car: Pasteur car park advised • Tourist coaches: marked places on Raymond Poincaré avenue | GPS : 43°32’22 N - 5°26’47 E

OPENING HOURS AND GUIDED TOURS TIMES 2018 (subject to availability) 1 April > 31 May 10am > 12.30pm 10am, 2pm * 2pm > 6pm 5pm 1 June 10am > 6pm 10am, 2pm * > 30 September 5pm 1 October 10am > 12.30pm 10am, 2pm * > 31 March 2pm > 5pm 4pm

Closed: 1 to 9 January, 1 May, 25 December and Sundays in January, February, December.

*Other guided tours times may be available at the Tourist Office and on: 8 | booking.aixenprovencetourism.com | 9 A LIFE-SIZE PAINTING LE TERRAIN DES PEINTRES

Chemin de la Marguerite Terrain des Peintres © S. SPITÉRI © S. des Peintres Terrain

Take a 15 minute walk from Cezanne’s Studio and experience Paul Cezanne’s favourite vista of Sainte-Victoire Mountain. Cezanne often left his studio to go to the top of Les Lauves Hill where he set up his easel facing Sainte-Victoire Mountain. Between 1902 and 1906, he painted it from this stunning spot 17 times in watercolour and 11 times in oil. Walk up Chemin de la Marguerite from the studio to see nine reproductions on glazed lava stone that reflect the great outdoors.

10 | | 11 LE TERRAIN DES PEINTRES Free GETTING THERE 15 min walk from the Cezanne workshop. Go up Paul Cezanne Avenue, cross the roundabout of the Cezanne Gate, turn left and take the stairs leading to the Painters path. • Bus : no. 5 and no. 12, Les Peintres stop +33 (0)9 70 80 90 13 | www.aixenbus.fr • Parking for touring coaches by the Filippi avenue respect the location located before the entrance to the residence.

10 | | 11 IN THE MAGIC OF INSPIRATION LES CARRIÈRES DE BIBÉMUS ET LE CABANON DE CEZANNE 3090, chemin de Bibémus Carrières de Bibémus © S. SPITERI de Bibémus © S. Carrières

When he was over 50 years old, Cezanne sought the peace of these abandoned quarries whose ochre rocks set off the deep green pine trees and blue Provençal sky.

The artist used this stunning scenery to produce world-renowned pieces between 1895 and 1904 that set Cubism on course such as The Red Rock.

The tour is an hour-long walk among the Mediterranean woods deep in the Grand Site Sainte-Victoire. The guide will take you by huge blocks before stopping in front of a lovely hut where the painter stored his equipment before ending on the belvedere with views of Sainte-Victoire Mountain.

12 | | 13 LES CARRIÈRES DE BIBEMUS €7,70 • Tour takes 1 hour approximately Free • Site located in the middle of nature, steep path requiring a good level of mobility. Walking shoes recommended • Capacity max. 20 people, reservation advised • Open to guided tours only, no independent visits • Start 3 Bons Dieux car park, in a special shuttle bus (free parking). Appointment 45 min before the tour.

INDIVIDUAL PRICES (including €1.20 for the shuttle bus) • Full price €7,70 | Reduced price €4,70 (13-25s) • Free (except €1.20 for the shuttle bus): under 13s, jobseekers, disabled people, Press, ICOM and tour guides (upon presentation of the relevant card). Tour and free shuttle for City Pass holders.

TICKETS From Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office and on: booking.aixenprovencetourism.com No telephone reservations

GETTING THERE • Bus: no. 6, car park Les 3 Bons Dieux stop +33 (0)9 70 80 90 13 www.aixenbus.fr • Car: Les 3 Bons Dieux car park (free). Departure point for the shuttle bus for visiting the Bibémus quarries | GPS : 43°32’6.96 N - 5°28’32.29 E

GUIDED TOURS TIMES 2018 (subject to availability)

1 April > 31 May Monday, Wednesday, 11am 3pm Friday, Sunday

1 June > 30 September Everyday 9.45am 1 October > 31 March Wednesday, Saturday 3pm Closed: 1 to 9 January, 1 May, 25 December. The site may be closed by prefec- tural order depending on weather conditions, from June to September. Check the evening before your visit at myprovence.fr/enviedebalade (Sainte-Victoire and Concors), or by telephone: +33 (0)8 11 20 13 13 (surcharged number).

Pets not allowed on any sites 12 | | 13 INSIDE THE WORK OF CEZANNE LE MUSÉE GRANET Free Place Saint-Jean-de-Malte Aix-en-Provence, Musée Granet Aix-en-Provence, Les grandes baigneuses, vers 1890, 28 x 44 cm Les grandes baigneuses, vers 1890,

Ten of Cezanne’s oil-paintings are owned by this museum which is considered as one of the finest in France, displayed together in a dedicated room. A group of watercolours and drawings is also put on public display every three years to better conserve them. Cezanne studied drawing in this building from 1857 to 1862: the former priory of the Order of Malta housed a free school, set up by the city of Aix after its collection of art works was installed there in 1828. Many of these works were used for educational purposes: as a student, Cezanne copied paintings such as Frillié’s Kiss of the Muse, The Prisoner of Chillon by Edouard Dubuffet and Peaches on a Dish of the 17th century French school, and these compositions are often found in his still lifes. + 33 (0)4 42 52 88 32 www.museegranet-aixenprovence.fr Tickets available to buy at the Tourist Office and on: booking.aixenprovencetourism.com 14 | | 15 IN THE HOUSE WHERE IT ALL BEGAN LA BASTIDE DU JAS DE BOUFFAN 17, route de Galice Bastide du Jas de Bouffan © P.Biolatto Bastide du Jas de Bouffan ©

Listed as historical monument, the Jas de Bouffan house and its grounds were the painter’s family home for forty years. It is destined to become a go-to site to experience the life and work of Cezanne.

Following renovation work, a scenography and museum project will restore the ground floor to its former 19th century Aix-style «bastide» glory; the large reception room where the young Cezanne painted the walls will be restored and the first floor will display international temporary exhibitions.

No visits during current renovation work

14 | | 15

L' ATELIER DE CEZANNE 9, avenue Paul Cezanne, 13090 Aix-en-Provence +33 (0)4 42 21 06 53 | GPS : 43°32’19 N - 5°26’46 E [email protected] cezanne-en-provence.com

LES CARRIÈRES DE BIBÉMUS 3090, chemin de Bibémus, 13100 Aix-en-Provence +33 (0)4 42 16 11 61 | GPS : 43°31’52 N - 5°30’02 E [email protected] cezanne-en-provence.com

LE TERRAIN DES PEINTRES Chemin de la Marguerite, 13100 Aix-en-Provence GPS : 43°32’49 N - 5°26’40 E [email protected] cezanne-en-provence.com INFO PRACTICAL

OFFICE DE TOURISME D'AIX-EN-PROVENCE 300, avenue Giuseppe Verdi - BP 40160 13605 Aix-en-Provence cedex 1 +33 (0)4 42 16 11 61 GPS : 43°31’35 N - 5°26’39 E | Parking Rotonde aixenprovencetourism.com

VISITE POUR GROUPES À partir de 15 personnes, réservation obligatoire L'atelier de Cezanne | +33 (0)4 42 16 80 26 [email protected] Les carrières de Bibémus | +33 (0)4 42 16 11 65 [email protected]

16 | | 17 16 | | 17 FOLLOW THE NAILS Towards

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B ld A .C h a r r ie r WALKING TOUR IN THE STEPS OF CEZANNE

1 STATUE DE CEZANNE • Next to the Tourist Office Bronze by Gabriel Sterk, donated to the city in 2006 by the Aix-en-Œuvres association.

2 SOCIÉTÉ DES AMIS DES ARTS • 2 bis, avenue Victor Hugo. Founded in 1894, the company moved into these pre- mises, a former garage, in 1895. Cezanne exhibited paintings there on three occasions: 1895: The Arc Valley and landscape (study). 1902: Meadow at Jas de Bouffan, near Aix and still life. 1906: Castle of the devil otherwise known as Black Castle on the Tholonet road.

3 COLLÈGE MIGNET • 41, rue Cardinale (formerly collège Bourbon). Cezanne was a pupil here from 1852 (first year of secondary school) to 1858. After failing the first session of the arts baccalaureate on 4 August 1858, Cezanne passed it on 12 November 1858. This is where he became friends with the writer Émile Zola, the scientist Jean-Baptistin Baille and Louis Marguery (Court attorney).

4 DOMICILE DE MARIE CEZANNE • 8, rue Frédéric Mistral (formerly rue de la Monnaie). Marie, the artist’s sister, lived here in 1897 (letter from Cezanne to Solari dated 30 January 1897).

20 | | 21 5 DOMICILE D’HORTENSE ET DE PAUL CEZANNE FILS 9, rue Frédéric Mistral. On 12 February 1891, after their trip to Switzerland, Cezanne reduced the allowance of his wife and son so that they would return to Aix. As Hortense had fallen out with her in-laws, Cezanne set them up in this apartment while he lived at the Jas de Bouffan house with his mother and sister.

6 ÉCOLE DE DESSIN - MUSÉE GRANET • Place Saint- Jean-de-Malte. As student here from 1857 to 1862, Cezanne took life model classes and lessons in drawing antiquities in which the models were plasters and marbles conserved in the museum. On 25 August 1859, he received the School’s second prize for drawing.

7 ÉGLISE SAINT-JEAN-DE-MALTE • Place Saint-Jean-de- Malte. Funeral of Mrs Cezanne senior, on 27 October 1897.

8 CHAPELLE DES PÉNITENTS BLANCS • Rue du Maréchal Joffre. The Bourguignon de Fabregoules collection, be- queathed to the city of Aix for the Granet Museum, was shown in this former chapel for ten years, from 1866 to 1876. On 19 October 1866, Cezanne wrote to Zola: ”As Father Gibert from the museum had invited me to visit the Bourguignon Museum, I went with Baille, Marion and Va- labrègue. I found it all bad.”

9 CIMETIÈRE SAINT-PIERRE • Cezanne was buried here on 24 October 1906 (lane n°6). The ashes of John Rewald, the art historian who founded the Cezanne’s Studio Museum, have been here since 1994.

10 MAISON NATALE • 28, rue de l’Opéra. Paul was born on 19 January 1839, in a charitable institution run by the Misses Michel, near Miss Aube’s boarding school of the Nativity.

11 ATELIER DE PHILIPPE SOLARI • Rue de l’Opéra. The sculptor Philippe Solari (1840-1906) was a childhood friend 20 | of Cezanne. | 21 12 DOMICILE D’ÉMILE BERNARD • 9, rue de l’Opéra. On 4 February 1904, on his return from Egypt via Marseille, the painter Émile Bernard visited Cezanne in Aix for the first time.

13 DOMICILE DES CEZANNE DE 1878 À 1881 and then the Conil home • 20, rue Émeric David. In mid-September, Mrs Cezanne senior left L’Estaque and the family moved to this new address. The house, which cost 16,500 Francs, was part of Rose’s dowry. Cezanne’s nieces and nephews born: Marthe-Anna-Marie Conil on 3 October 1882, Marie-Antoi- nette-Paule Conil on 3 May 1885, Marie-Rose-Amélie Conil on 27 December 1888, and Louis Conil on 20 September 1892.

14 DOMICILE DU PEINTRE ACHILLE EMPERAIRE • 15, rue Émeric David where Cezanne stayed for a month and rented an apartment from Mrs de S… before moving into the ground floor of the Lauves Studio.

15 ANCIENNE CHAPELLERIE DU COURS MIRABEAU 55, cours Mirabeau. Home of Louis-Auguste Cezanne. After working in the Aix factory of the wool merchant Dethés, Paul’s father Louis-Auguste Cezanne left and went to Paris to learn the hatter’s trade. On his return in 1825, he worked in the Carbonnel workshop at this address and met Anne-Élisabeth Aubert, who was a hat-maker at the time. After the birth of Paul, Anne-Élisabeth Aubert and her baby moved in with the child’s father.

16 CAFÉ DES DEUX GARÇONS • 53 bis, cours Mirabeau (ground floor of the Gantès Hotel). On 7 October 1906, Ce- zanne wrote to his son: ”Yesterday evening before dinner, from 4 to about 7pm, I was with Capdeville (the pharmacist), Niolon (the painter), Fernand Bouteille (president of the Bar), etc., at the Café des Deux Garçons.”

22 | | 23 17 APPARTEMENT DE MADAME CEZANNE MÈRE • 30, cours Mirabeau. She lived here from 1895 onwards. From June to September 1897, Cezanne visited his mother every evening and dined with her: ”He has supper in the evening and stays the night with his mother, whom he cares for tenderly. She is disabled; he takes her out in the car, and to enjoy the sunshine at Le Jas. She is as slim and slight as a child, and he carries her himself, in his arms which are still strong, from the car to her chair. He is constantly telling her affectionate jokes.” This is where she died on 25 October 1897.

18 DOMICILE DES CEZANNE DE 1844 À 1850 • 14, rue de la Glacière. The registered residence of Louis-Auguste Cezanne at the time of his wedding in 1844. In the marriage contract drawn up on 10 January 1844, Louis-Auguste is mentioned as a former hatter, house-owner, with no profession.

19 FONTAINE DE LA RUE DES BAGNIERS • In 1926, the art dealer Ambroise Vollard gave the city a bronze medal made by the sculptor Richard Guino, a student of Maillol, based on a drawing and instructions by Renoir.

20 ÉGLISE DE LA MADELEINE • Place des Prêcheurs. Christe- ning of Paul Cezanne, on 20 February 1839. Christening of Paul’s sister Marie Cezanne on 7 July 1841. Wedding of Louis-Auguste Cezanne and Élisabeth Aubert on 30 January 1844. Blessing of marriage of Paul’s second sister Rose Ce- zanne to Maxime Conil on 27 February 1881.

21 DOMICILE DE JOACHIM GASQUET • 30, rue Portalis (formerly rue Saint-Louis). The poet and novelist Joachim Gasquet (1873-1921) sat for Cezanne in 1896. This portrait, one of the painter’s most famous, is in the Národní Gallery in Prague. Cezanne stayed with Gasquet in 1899 while work was being done on his apartment at 23, rue Boulegon.

22 | | 23 22 MAISON DE LA GRAND-MÈRE MATERNELLE DE PAUL CEZANNE • 23, rue Suffren.

23 ÉCOLE CATHOLIQUE SAINT-JOSEPH • 16, cours Saint- Louis. Cezanne was a pupil here from 1850 to 1852. He met Henri Gasquet, the father of the poet and art critic Joachim.

24 DERNIER APPARTEMENT DE CEZANNE 23, rue Boulegon. In the autumn of 1899, after the Jas de Bouffan house was sold, Cezanne moved into this, his last home; it was here that he died of pleurisy on 23 October 1906, at 7am.

25 BANQUE PATERNELLE • 13, rue Boulegon. In 1856, the bank moved to this new address. This is where Paul agreed to work after his time in Paris.

26 ÉCOLE COMMUNALE • Rue des Épinaux. Cezanne was a pupil here from 1844 to 1850. This is where he met Philippe Solari, who became a sculptor.

27 DOMICILE DES CEZANNE DE 1850 À 1870 • 14, rue Matheron. Rose Cezanne born on 1 June 1854. Cezanne spent his youth partly here and partly at the Jas de Bouffan house. The 1860 census mentions Paul Cezanne, ”clerk”, as living at this address.

28 HÔTEL DE VILLE • Marriage ceremony of Paul Cezanne and Hortense Fiquet on 28 April 1886.

29 BANQUE PATERNELLE • 24, rue des Cordeliers. The Cezanne and Cabassol bank, with capital of 100,000 Francs, opened for business on 1 June 1848.

24 | | 25 30 CATHÉDRALE SAINT-SAUVEUR • 34, place Martyrs de la Résistance. Christening of Rose Cezanne, on 5 June 1854. Funeral of Paul Cezanne on Wednesday 24 October 1906, at 10am. ”On Sundays we went to mass. He was dressed in his best. He sat in the Factory pew and followed the service attentively. I had seen Cezanne here before, below the big painting of the Burning Bush, in which Moses looks uncannily like him.” (Émile Bernard)

31 FACULTÉ DE DROIT • Place de l’Université. Cezanne enrolled here on 16 December 1858. He passed the first exam but did not enrol for the new academic year in 1860, his final degree year, which would have enabled him to practise as a barrister and ma- gistrate.

32 ÉGLISE SAINT-JEAN-BAPTISTE DU FAUBOURG • 34, cours Sextius. Blessing of marriage of Paul Cezanne and Hortense Fiquet, the day after their civil wedding, on 29 April 1886. Funeral of Paul’s father, Louis-Auguste Cezanne, on 24 October 1886.

24 | | 25 Tourist Office

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