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Otif Kain Tais Timor Sebagai Sumber Inspirasi Penciptaan Busana Pesta

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Otif Kain Tais Timor Sebagai Sumber Inspirasi Penciptaan Busana Pesta OTIF KAIN TAIS TIMOR SEBAGAI SUMBER INSPIRASI PENCIPTAAN BUSANA PESTA Libania Maria Flor Sarmento ABSTRACK ABSTRAK Kain tenun bagi masyarakat Timor dapat menunjukkan suatu status sosial yang tinggi. Kaum bangsawan Pemilikan biasanya mewariskan kain tenun kepada generasi berikutnya. Kainkain tenun yang paling tinggi nilainya diperlihatkan pada acara-acara perkawinan dan upacara adat lainnya. Dalam upacara perkawinan juga terjadi pertukaran kain-kain tenun adat dari pihak keluarga laki-laki dengan pihak keluarga perempuan. Kain tenun juga mempunyai nilai yang menentukan dalam aturan adat. Apabila ada pelanggaran terhadap aturan adat, akan dikenakan pembayaran denda yang harus dibayar dengan kain-kain adat. Peralatan tenun yang dipergunakan adalah alat tenun tradisional yaitu alat tenun gedongan. Terwujudnya karya seni merupakan visualisasi dari pikiran seorang seniman yang memiliki ekspresi jiwa dan diungkap dari suatu pemahaman yang diserap dalam pikiran maupun perasaan. Lewat pemahaman dari berbagai model yang diserap dalam pikiran maupun erasaan akan menimbulkan ide-ide baru yang tak terbatas, kemudian divisualiasiskan lewat simbolsimbol tertentu ke dalam wujud karya seni. Dalam data-data yang terkumpul, terdapat beberapa bentuk motif yang telah distilir dan dipergunakan untuk tujuan yang berbeda-beda.Untuk tujuan fungsional, motif telah distilir dalam hal hias-menghias pada pakaian dan acesoris, perhiasan dan lainnya.Selain itu, Untuk tujuan seni, motif tradisional Timorbelum pernah distilir dalam hal berkarya seni. Kata kunci : Motif , Tais Timor, kriya Seni. PENDAHULUAN Penyebaran tenun ikat di Indonesia antara Kain Tenun ikat merupakan salah lain terdapat di Rongkong dan Galumpang, satu bentuk seni kerajinan tradisional yang Tanah Toraja, Sulawesi Selatan, Bentenan dapat kita temui diberbagai daerah yang dan Rantahan di Bintik, Minahasa Sulawesi jumlahnya sangat banyak dan bervariasi Utara, di Sumatra antara lain di Tanah untuk tiap-tiap daerah. berdasarkan Batak, Sumatra Utara. kemudian persebaran asal-usul kebudayaan Indonesia Kalimantan terutama di daerah pedalaman yang di mulai dari jaman Prasejarah pada di Kalimantan Barat, Tengah dan Timur periode Neolitikum dari Asia Tenggara yang termasuk Dayak Iban di daerah Serawak, terjadi sekitar 2000 tahun sebelum Masehi. Malaysia Timur. * Libania Maria Flor Sarmento, Mahasiswa Jurusan Kriya, Fakultas Seni Rupa, Institut Seni Indonesia Yogyakarta 81 82 ] CORAK Jurnal Seni Kriya Vol. 4 No.1, Mei-Okteber 2015 Di Nusa Tenggara Timur di Sumba, yang di ajarkan kepada anak cucu demi Flores, Sawu, Roti, Ndao, Lomblen dan kelestarian seni tenun tersebut. Timor.Pulau Timor yang terbesar di wilayah Kain tenun merupakan salah satu Nusa Tenggara Timur yaitu Timor. Wilayah kebutuhan atau perlengkapan hidup Timor ini mempunyai ciri-ciri alam yang manusia yang sudah di kenal sejak zaman terdiri dari padang savana yang luas yang di prasejarah yang di peroleh dari kelilingi deretan bukit-bukit dengan perkembangan pakian penutup badan gunung-gunung serta hutan-hutan primer setelah rumput - rumputan dan kulit kayu dan sekunder. Penduduk Timor mempunyai .kain tenun ikat yang merupakan penduduk dari berbagai suku bangsa yang perkembangan dari bentuk kain tenun yang berbeda adat-istiadat maupun sistem di beri ragam hias ikat diciptakan untuk kemasyarakatannya.Kelompok yang melengkapi kebutuhan dasar pangan dan dominan, adalah orang Helon, orang tempat tinggal. kain tenun yang cara Antoni, orang Tetun dan orang pembuatan motifnya menggunakan tenun Mambai.Orang Roti dan Sawu yaitu ikat.teknik ikat dilakukan dengan mengikat penduduk yang berasal dari pulau didekat bagian-bagian tertentu pada benang nya yang kemudian banyak diantaranya sehinga bagian tersebut tidak berwarna kemudian menetap di Timor. waktu benang dicelup kedalam zat pewarna Republic Demokratika Timor leste bagian-bagian di perhitungkan sedemikian atau di sebut juga Timor Lorasae yang rupa sehingga setelah ditenun akan sebelum merdeka bernama Timor-Timur membentuk motif tertentu. adalah sebuah Negara kecil di sebelah utara Kain tenun bagi masyarakat Timor Australia dan bagian timur pulau Timor. dapat menunjukkan suatu status sosial ang Selain itu wilayah Negara ini juga meliputi tinggi. Kaum bangsawan Pemilikan biasanya pulau kambing Atauro,Jaco,dan Enclave mewariskan kain tenun kepada generasi Oecussi-Ambeno di timur barat. Dengan berikutnya.Kain-kain tenun yang paling mata pencarian penduduk pada umum-nya tinggi nilainya diperlihatkan pada acara- berladang dan berternak selain itu acara perkawinan dan upacara adat lainnya. mengerjakan kerajinan tangan antara lain Dalam upacara perkawinan juga terjadi anyam-anyaman,membuat hiasan dari pertukaran kain-kain tenun adat dari pihak perak,ukir-mengukir dan yang terpenting keluarga laki-laki dengan pihak keluarga menenun, pekejaan satu ini khusus di perempuan.Kain tenun juga mempunyai kerjakan oleh kaum wanita yang sudah nilai yang menentukan dalam aturan adat. berkeluarga dan yang belum Apabila ada pelanggaran terhadap aturan berkeluarga.menenun hasil tenunan adat, akan dikenakan pembayaran denda digunakan atau dipake untuk memenuhi yang harus dibayar dengan kain-kain adat. kebutuhan mereka sendiri atau diperjual Peralatan tenun yang dipergunakan adalah belikan keluar Timor oleh tengkulak kain alat tenun tradisional yaitu alat tenun tenun timor merupakan salah satu seni gedongan. kerajinan tangan tangan turun-temurun Dengan peralatan sederhana, kain- kain Timor dibuat untuk dikenakan dalam Otok Herum Marwoto, Nilai Nilai Islam Pada Wayang Kulit ... [ 83 upacara-upacara daur kehidupan, upacara Bahan dan Alat pendirian sebuah rumah, masa setelah Bahan panen, sampai upacara penguburan atau a. Kain mori atau kain primasima upacara kematian. Seperti halnya upacara Merupakan kain mori yang paling halus dan kematian di Timor memerlukan sejumlah biasanya digunakan untuk membatik jenis banyak kain untuk upacara kematian batik tulis yang sangat halus. Mori ini seorang tokoh adat atau raja diperlukan biasanya dalam bentuk gulungan (piece) seratus lima puluh kain adat, baik untuk dengan lebar 1,06 m dan panjang 15,5 m. dikuburkan bersama orang yang meninggal Susunan atau konstruksi primissima maupun untuk dibagi-bagikan. Selain dalam menggunakan benang Ne 50-56. Kepadatan upacara kematian, kain ini memegang (tetel) benang untuk lusi antara 105-125 per peranan penting yaitu sebagai mas kawin inch(42-50 per cm) dan untuk pakan antara dalam upacara perkawinan. Bahkan di 100-120 per inch (42-50 per cm antara berbagai suku di wilayah Timor b. Kain tulle, Kain tulle atau yang biasa sendiri termasuk wilayah Timor bagian disebut dengan kain tille adalah kain yang Timur, ada jenis kain Timor yang khususnya ringan yang berbentuk seperti jala dengan bercorak motif patola mempunyai nilai lubang kecil. Kain tulle dibuat dari berbagai tukar yang mempererat persatuan di antara macam serat seperti sutra, nilon, dan rayon. mereka yang berbeda adat istiadatnya. Kain tulle biasanya digunakan untuk kerudung, detail aksesoris, gaun, dan Hasil dan Pembahasan kostum ballet. Kain tulle dapat memberikan Penciptaan karya ini menghasilkan bentuk kesan feminin bagi pemakainya.. motif yang ada pada kain Tais ke busana c. Kain Brokat batik.pembuatan busana ini menggunakan Brokat bukanlah bahan renda (lace), bukan beberapa teknik sebagai pemuncul bentuk pula embroidery atau kain lainnya. Brokat ornament dan motif. Motif yang diterapkan merupakan jenis kain yang kaya akan pada batik ini adalah motif-motif kain Tais dekorasi, seringkali dibuat menggunakan Timor yang telah dipilih sebagai sumber ide sutra berwarna, dengan atau tanpa benang penciptaan. Penerapan teknik menggu- emas dan perak. Karakteristik bahan ini nakan teknik batik. keras dan gatal jika tersentuh kulit, maka harus ada bahan pelapis di bagian dalam Proses Perwujudan brokat untuk memberi kesan nyaman bagi Proses perwujudan merupakan suatu tahap pemakai. pengerjaan karya dari langkah awal hinga d. malam atau lilin, adalah bahan yang akhir. Untuk memperlancar dan digunakan untuk menutup permukaan kain memperoleh hasil yang maksimal menurut gambar motif batik, sehingga dalampembuatan karya busana pesta, permukaan kain yang tertutup tersebut langkah selanjutnya yang harus di tempuh menolak resist terhadap warna yang adalah menentukan bahan dan alat yang diberikan pada kain tersebut. Lilin batik ini digunakan, teknik pengerjaan, dan tahap tidak terdiri dalam satu macam bahan, perwujudan. tetapi campuran dari beberapa pokok lilin. 84 ] CORAK Jurnal Seni Kriya Vol. 4 No.1, Mei-Okteber 2015 Sebagai bahan pokok lilin adalah: Gondorukem, Damar matakucing, Parafin, Microwax, Minyak kelapa, dan lerak. e. Naptol dan Indigosol Pewarna sintetis/buatan. Merupakan pewarna yang dapat digunakan dalam suhu yang tidak merusak lilin, yang termasuk golongan pewarna tersebut adalah: indigo, indigosol, naptol dan rapid yang diguanakan untuk mewarnai kain dengan cara mencelup atau mencolet pada bagian- bagian tertentu sedangkan dan asam sulfat atau hcl digunakan untuk membangkitkan warna indigosol serta mengucinya agar tidak warna tidak luntur. Alat a.Canting Canting berfungsi semacam pena, yang diisi Karya 1 Judul : Menina Do Crocodilo lilin malam cair sebagai tintanya. Bentuk Media: kain prima asima. canting beraneka ragam, dari yang berujung Tahun: 2015, Photog grafer: santos Model: Enda satu hingga beberapa ujung. Canting yang memiliki beberapa ujung berfungsi untuk membuat titik dalam sekali sentuhan. Sedangkan canting yang berujung satu berfungsi untuk membuat garis, lekukan dan
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