Sandra Lee Diekmann Brown Fred J Bueche 1760 Beretania St Apt 8D 45 Oakland Hills Pl Honolulu, HI 96826-1131 Rotondo West, FL 33947-2234 808-456-3269 ♦ T-03 941-697-8696 ♦ T-04 [email protected] Janet E Bullock Barbara C Bryan 12900 Woolman Ln 179 Stanton St Apt 3R Nevada City, CA 95959 New York, NY 10002-1883 530-477-8021 ♦ T-03 212-228-6065 ♦ T-13 [email protected] Shirley A Burkey 769 Fir Linda Jean Harris Budan Pocatello, ID 83202 19759 NE Calkins Lane 208-232-1510 ♦ T-12 Newberg, OR 97132-6567 503-537-0371 ♦ T-13 [email protected]

A Flag to Burn flag to burn.” Needless to say, I was most concerned about this “gift”—perhaps even alarmed. Abruptly, I A tiny, peaceful village in a remote location kept me put the flag back into the presenter’s hands. from ever worrying about my safety. I rarely locked With firm conviction, I looked at them and said, my door. Why should I have? Locked or not, every- “I love the American flag, and I don’t believe anyone one was respectful. All visitors knocked and waited for should burn it. I also love the Turkish flag, and I their invitation to enter. This night was no different, don’t believe anyone should burn it, either. I am very except for that the knock came at 2:00 a.m. touched by your feelings, and your thoughts are very I struggled to untangle myself from my mosquito kind. But please, take your flag back. And don’t tell net to answer my door. Who in the world would be anyone about this.” knocking at my door so late at night? It was pitch This incident was never discussed again. For that, black in my little apartment. I was grateful. But offering me their country’s flag, I I got up and slipped into my robe, reaching to believe, was a heartfelt, profoundly expressed, beauti- switch on the one hanging lightbulb. My curiosity ful feeling towards Americans. propelled me with two short, eager steps to open the Karen Neffinger Reiter (T-17—Fethiye) door. There, standing stiffly, were four of my high school seniors; I immediately welcomed them in. They presented themselves in a rather stiff, military manner. “Ne oluyor?” I asked them. With a slight bow of his head, one of the students presented me (in a rather formal manner) with a tightly folded, thick, heavy red material. Was it a wrapping for something inside, I wondered? As I began to open it, it dawned on me; it was a Turkish flag! “Puzzled” doesn’t begin to describe my state of mind. None of these serious young men had yet spoken a word. Perplexed, I opened my mouth when one of the young men, in a most resolute voice, interrupted. “The Turkish students in Ankara burned the American flag today. We are bringing you a Turkish Karen Neffinger Reiter

42 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey My “Preservatif” Bread

I do remember my most embarrassing Turkish lan- guage effort. I was out to lunch with the whole faculty of the middle school. Someone asked me what my favorite Turkish food was. I immediately replied that it was the bread. They all looked disappointed, and someone asked how Turkish bread was different from American bread. I wanted to say that we have chemi- cals in our bread. I didn’t remember learning the word for chemicals…so, I searched for another word and I came up with “preservatifs,” whereupon the whole Karolyn Bragg The bakery in Erzurum is a fond remembrance mostly be- table went into gales of laughter. The hocahanım cause, as with most of the world, bread was a staple on sitting next to me had mercy on me and explained: every Turkish table. It was always fresh daily. This particu- “preservatif” means condoms in Turkish. lar bakery even made special yumurtalı pide bread during Karen Neffinger Reiter (T-17—Fethiye) Ramadan.

Gail H Cooper Andrew Vincent Coughlin, Jr. 19 1403 South St 114 Mapleton Dr Geneva, IL 60134-2538 Williamsville, NY 14221 630-232-8415 ♦ T-13 716-741-8045 ♦ T-13 [email protected] [email protected]

Stephen M Cooper Michael Cox 33W-678 Army Trail Rd 1010 Weeping Willow Dr Wayne, IL 60184 Chesapeake, VA 23322 630-913-6170 ♦ T-13 757-482-0066 ♦ T-12

Dennis W & Sally B Heggie Copeland Ender Creel 92 Pleasant Cove Dr 2509 N Quantico St Woolwich, ME 04579-4531 Arlington, VA 22207 207-443-3030 ♦ T-04 703-237-2632 ♦ Friend of Turkey [email protected] [email protected]

Patricia Corcoran Kevin B & Patti Wright Cronin 171 Linden St 1888 Kalakaua Ave., Apt. 1003 Rochester, NY 14620 Honolulu, HI 96815-1530 585-442-8461 ♦ T-08 808-949-2189 ♦ T-08 [email protected] [email protected]

Ellen Corley Lillian Morse Crotteau 1207 Beech St 1306 Hawthorne Ln Valparaiso, IN 46383 Lincoln, CA 95648-8120 219-462-5243 ♦ T-05 916-434-7092 ♦ T-13 [email protected] Nancy Mittelsteadt Cotter 20915 Fawn Ct., Apt 45 West Lynn, OR 97068-2550 ♦ T-04

46 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey Street Vendors

While there were many street calls in Erzurum dur- ing the years we lived there (1966–1968), the ones I remember best are those my two children imitated when we returned to Turkey in 1974–1975. The first night in Ankara, my boys (then two and four years old), went around the hotel singsonging “Eskiciiiiiii. Eskiciiiii.” When we moved into an apartment, a sucu was a regular visitor to the complex (there were terri- ble water cuts that year), and our apartment was next to the front door of the complex. He would come in and holler up the stairwell “SUUUUUUU.” My boys cried every time until they finally understood he was not yelling at me, but crying out “WATER!” And finally, we spent that summer (1975) on Cyprus, and we would take the bus from our house to the market in Girne/Kyrenia and then back again. Since the bus traveled on to Lefkosa/Nicosia after we got out, it was called the “Lefkosa” bus, and the driver would holler at every stop “LefKOSa.” So my boys (by then three and five years old) picked that up and soon were hollering “LefKOSa” as a part of the games they played. Richard Janzig Susan (McHenry) Holm (T-13—Erzurum) Water seller. Ankara, 1969.

Chandra Elizabeth A Stephens Eisen Enid Elliot 1623 W Sexton 117 Menzies St. Sebastopol, CA 95472 Victoria, BC, V8V 2G4 Canada 707-829-1992 ♦ T-15 250-386-9326 ♦ T-17 [email protected] Elliot R Eisenberg 321 A St NE Joan E Elliott Washington, DC 20002 2346 Savanna Way 202-544-1551 ♦ T-12 Palm Springs, CA 92262-8834 [email protected] 760-318-6446 ♦ T-08 [email protected] Melissa R Eker 620 N Curtis St. Vicky Emerson Olathe, KS 66061-3324 PO Box 5951 913-768-6975 ♦ Friend of Turkey Huntington Beach, CA 92615-5951 [email protected] 714-369-8677 ♦ T-04 [email protected] Ed G Elenbaas 3808 E Jefferson Carolyn Holm Emmerson Seattle, WA 98122 18 Linaria Way 206-323-0492 ♦ T-08 Portola Valley, CA 94028-7426 650-233-9843 ♦ T-01 Patricia Corcoran [email protected] Patrick Fabian Atatürk statue in Konya. The mosque at Kazancık. Addresses / 51 Ankara - METU 65-67 Joshua M Bear Ankara - METU 65-67 William M & Joanne Z Freed Ankara - METU 20 65-67 David A Gancher Ankara - METU 65-67 Barbara (Gancher) Goldsmith Ankara - METU 65-67 Wayne L Harman Ankara - METU 65-67 William J Hibsher Ankara - METU 65-67 Gail M (Baum) Van Valkenberg Ankara - METU 65-67 Lydia J Williamson Ankara - METU 66-67 Donald J Weber Ankara - METU 66-68 Donald J Carolan Ankara - METU 66-68 Connie S Smith Wardell Ankara - METU 66-68 Robert Zahn Ankara - METU 67-69 Donald W Cruickshank Ankara - METU 67-69 James W Freeman Ankara - METU 67-69 Richard C Janzig Ankara - METU 67-69 Dana E Marmion Ankara - METU 67-69 Charles H Matterson Ankara - METU 67-69 Justin A McCarthy Ankara - METU 67-69 Gerald J Ramelow Ankara - METU 67-69 David L Wilson Ankara - METU 68-70 Elizabeth Helen Collins Ferrard Ankara - METU 68-70 Tim & Frances Mungaven Ankara - METU 68-70 Kathleen L Tietgens Reddaway Ankara - METU 68-70 Stephen & Dana Strand Ankara - METU 68-70 John F Taylor Ankara - METU 68-70 Virginia L Taylor-Saçlıoğlu Ankara - METU 69-70 Steven Adelman Ankara - METU 69-70 Thomas M Bauso Ankara - METU 69-70 Clemens Bribitzer

106 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey Sneaking Over to Rhodes we decided we should let them know where we were going. Bob McBride and Jim Dinsmore crafted and After the harsh winter of 1966–1967, spring was sent a telegram that read “Biz Rodos’a gidiyoruz. very welcome. There was supposed to be a short Allah izin verdi.” (“We’re going to Rhodes. Allah school vacation in March, but the ministry didn’t gave us permission.”) And he put all our names on it. give much notice of the dates. Once the dates were We were feeling pretty pleased with ourselves, determined, a small group of us in the Denizli area and we found a small fishing boat that was making decided to use the time to visit Marmaris. I don’t the crossing. Unfortunately, the trip was harrowing, remember at what point in our dolmuş ride to the with thunder and lightning all around and no real South Coast we decided it would be a great idea to navigation equipment. When the storm passed, one continue on from Marmaris across to the island of of the fishermen stood on the prow and looked all Rhodes for a couple of days, but we came to that around for any sight of land. Although it wasn’t long conclusion. before he saw the Rhodian shoreline in the distance, it felt like hours. We were pretty sure that, having survived drowning, we were going to be lost at sea. We were met at the dock by a Greek baker named Nikos who ran a small pension. Nikos took us wet, bedraggled volunteers home to Mama, who made us the most delicious cinnamon tea I have ever had. Over the years, Nikos became a friend to many Peace Corps Volunteers; Tony and I stayed at the pension several times while we were teaching at Robert College. We spent many days on the island discovering the delights of canned Sunfix orange juice and Fix beer, and how good they tasted when Rita Dunn Carey drunk sitting in the warm sun. We also traveled to Paula Rosberry Sundstrom (T-14), Bob McBride (T-08) Lindos, which at the time was a sleepy village and and Susan Zator (T-10) on Rhodes. not the up-market destination it is today. We had a great time and no regrets about being Because we weren’t supposed to leave the coun- scofflaws, even when we got the news that we’d be try without permission from Peace Corps Ankara docked a month’s pay from our US stipend. (and being the responsible citizens that we were), Rita Dunn Carey (T-13—Denizli)

Jean Zettlemoyer Gerber Frank & Virginia R Moyer Giannotta 1151 W 7th Ave 1111 DeVictor Pl Vancouver, BC, V6H 1B5 Pittsburgh, PA 15206-1704 Canada 412-441-0620 ♦ T-04 & T-08 604-731-5940 ♦ T-01 [email protected] [email protected] Michael J & Shelley Goin Gibbons James M Gerson 550 Forest 2247 Wroxton Rd Evanston, IL 60202 Houston, TX 77005-1535 708-864-0335 ♦ T-05 713-528-4160 ♦ T-04 [email protected] [email protected]

Robert Calhoun Marelle Stoltzfus Groteluschen Bob Calhoun’s (T-08) favorite students from Eskişehir Shepherd boys near Antalya. Maarif56 / Arkadaşlar—Friends Koleji from 1965-67. of Turkey Adapazarı & Ankara 68-70 Agatha Catharine (Thornton) Fletcher Adapazarı & Ankara 21 68-70 Richard B Thornton Adapazarı & Malatya 62-64 Elise A Laurin Adapazarı & Malatya 62-64 Marjeanne Tehven Adıyaman 64-66 John R & Colleen J Clark Adıyaman 65-67 Jeannine M Tonetti Afşar (Dinar, Afyon) & Ankara 66-68 Alice M Austin Antwine Afşar (Dinar, Afyon) & İzmir - Ege Üniversitesi 66-68 Charles A Howard Afyon 64-66 Susan C Bayley Afyon 64-66 Frank W Neubauer Afyon 68-69 Walter K Ruehlig Afyon & Artvin & Beşiktüzü 63-65 Betty Hanks Leonard Afyon & Ayvalık 63-65 Katharine A Campbell Afyon & Bodrum 64-66 Vicky Emerson Afyon, Güney Köyü (between Denizli & İzmir ) 64-66 Jill Diskan Akçadağ (Malatya) 65-67 Karin I Bergmann Boroff Akçakamış Köyü (Adapazarı) 66-67 Jane Frances Hogan Akçakamış Köyü (Adapazarı) & Yalova 66-69 Leo Hogan, III Akdarı (Hatay) & Başlamiş (Dörtyol, Hatay) 64-66 John D & Michaele E Hymes Akhisar (Ege, Manisa) 67-69 Patricia Jacoby Rabin Akhisar (Manisa) 63-65 Richard J Ash, Jr. Akhisar (Manisa) 64-66 Gene V Blanchard Akhisar (Manisa) 64-66 Jack E Sharpe Akhisar (Manisa) 64-66 Thomas H Stubbs, Jr. Akhisar (Manisa) 65-67 Ben & Judy Collins Akhisar (Manisa) 66-68 Susan Strane Akhisar (Manisa) 69-70 L. Paige Bence Akhisar (Manisa) & Alanya 66-68 Victor A Levin Akhisar (Manisa) & Ardanuç & Trabzon 63-67 John F Gallivan Akören, formerly Akviran (Konya) 65-67 Theodore L Kempton Alanya 68-70 Robert A Ewing Alaşehir 64-66 Patricia Blute Fesci Alaşehir 67-69 Carol Todd Haug Alaşehir (Manisa) 68-70 Richard P Davis

102 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey Douglas C Hollmann Nancy Roberts Holtshouse 1705 Broadlee Trl PO Box 9144 Annapolis, MD 21401 Tucson, AZ 85738-9444 410-533-8989 ♦ T-15 520-825-6783 ♦ T-10 [email protected] Susan (McHenry) Holm 2200 SW Arvonia Pl Laraine K Hong Topeka, KS 66614-4249 7111 134th Ct SE 785-271-2860 ♦ T-13 Newcastle, WA 98059-3003 [email protected] 425-793-7468 ♦ T-15 [email protected]

A Trip to Meryemana a grotto-like stone building that was beautifully deco- rated for the service. One of our most memorable experiences was a trip to After mass, the nuns prepared a reception for us Meryemana (the Virgin Mary’s house) on Christmas all with cookies, hot chocolate, and other homemade Eve day in 1966. A small group of Volunteers from goodies. The nuns sang carols, as did the Germans, the Denizli area, including the late Carol Sidwa, Jim and we added English renditions. Not to be outdone, Dinsmore, Rita Dunn, and I, spent a rainy day trav- the small group of gendarmes who were stationed at eling by van to Ephesus for Christmas Eve services. the site added some Turkish folk songs. The highlight, There was a small group of French nuns and a priest however, was the Italian woman’s beautiful, very mov- in residence at Meryemana and a small guest house ing solo “Ave Maria,” which left us all spellbound. for visitors. In addition to our group, there were a In the morning we returned to Denizli for a few other “pilgrims,” including an Italian couple, an Christmas dinner of— according to a letter to my elderly German woman, and a young German guy parents—filet mignon and eggs! We had invited the who was filming the service for a Frankfurt TV sta- young German to come with us, and I think other tion. The scriptures and the homily were in French Volunteers from the area were also there to celebrate as well as English, and, if I remember correctly, Jim the holiday. assisted at mass. There was a small organ in the chapel, Tony Carey (T-13—Denizli)

Tony Carey Ann Harrington Bozer (T-16), Marian Wessels (T-16), and Ali San at Meryemana.

Addresses / 61

Ray and Karolyn Bragg Sandy Comstock Anderson Samovar shop in Erzurum; it was unique because to my know- Fishing with handlines in the Golden Horn. İstanbul, 1968. ledge Erzurum was where most of the samovars were sold.

Eskişehir 2266-68 Barbara C Bryan Eskişehir 66-68 Donna Chmara Eskişehir 67-69 John G Hoover Eskişehir 67-69 James M Kouzes Eskişehir 68-70 Julia M O’Reilly Eggleston Eskişehir 68-70 Diane M Sterling Eskişehir 68-70 Edward A & Karen G Youngman Eskişehir 69-70 Elizabeth Jochems Barnes Eskişehir & Adapazarı 66-68 Todd L Boressoff Eskişehir & Ankara 66-68 Diane Root Herson Eskişehir & Sakarya (Adapazarı) 66-68 Susan Clark Helms Eskişehir & Salihli (Manisa) 65-67 Lawrence G Simmons Eskişehir & Uşak 63-65 Jim N Michael Eskişehir Maarif Koleji 69-70 John Anthony Kukankos Espiye (Giresun) 65-67 Catherine Posselt Bachrach Espiye (Giresun) 67-69 John Olin Farya Köyü (Çatal Zeytin, Kastamonu) 64-66 Sally (Meigs) Caslon Farya Köyü (Çatal Zeytin, Kastamonu) 64-66 John F Meigs Fatsa 65-67 Charles N MacLane Fatsa & Konya 68-70 Patrick & Patricia B Anderson Fatsa (Ordu) & Erzurum 67-69 Beverly J (Larson) Farlow Fatsa (Ordu) & Erzurum 67-69 David E Larson Felahiye (Kayseri) 65-67 Kent Haruf Fethiye 64-66 Eloise Hally Fethiye 69-70 Karen L Neffinger Reiter Fevziye Köyü (Sakarya) & Kütahya 66-67 Maryanne Kummerer Gaziantep 62-64 Larry R Fisher Gaziantep 63-65 Maranee “Mimi” Jones Sanders Gaziantep 64-66 Joanne B Omang Gaziantep 64-66 Leslie P Peirce Gaziantep 64-67 Lynda Wykoff Özgür Gaziantep 65-66 Leslie Alvis Sack Gaziantep 65-67 Ann M Ringland Gaziantep 65-67 June S Beale Solaqua Gaziantep 66-67 Penny G Feinberg

Sites in Turkey / 113 Lawrence of Alanya Volunteer kept thinking of T. E. Lawrence racing Omar Sharif across the desert, robe flowing wildly in the wind. Bir varmış, bir yokmuş. Bir barış gönüllüsü Alanya’da Rounding a corner, the camels were out of sight for bir dağa tırmanmaya karar verdi (In Alanya, a Peace a moment to the rest of the road, and at that moment a Corps Volunteer decided to climb a mountain). It Vespa came at full speed around the corner. The Vespa was a small mountain on a promontory that stuck out hit the baby camel, who screamed and crashed into the into the bay. At the base of the mountain was a small, mother camel, who turned her head sharply to see what open-air market and the town itself. had happened, jerking the reins from the old camel The climb took only two hours. The single road driver. wandered up and switched back on itself. The summit The mother camel began charging downhill with had a nice, grassy picnic area with a view of the bay the half-drunk Volunteer desperately clinging to the and the ruins of an old crusader citadel. It was quite hump as it swayed from side to side. Frying pans and a lovely place. copper cooking utensils belonging to the old man were banging and flying as Mama hit full charge. The Vol- unteer started screaming for help, tying his scarf closer over his face, which was getting pelted by stones thrown by locals to stop the camel, or, more likely, to egg the beast on to even higher speeds. Laughter was heard! Of course the old man was running behind shout- ing curses, and the baby camel continued to bellow like a banshee. The Volunteer was beginning to look more and more like T. E. Lawrence charging off to blow up a train in the Sinai. As the raiding party neared the base of the mountain, the market came into full view. The camel did not slow down. The Volunteer became more Tarry Davis frightened and began shouting in Turkish “yardım… Tarry Davis (T-13) and the camel. duramıyoruz!” (“Help, we can’t stop!”) The fruit and vegetable sellers in the market were The Volunteer enjoyed the spot with his friends, frozen. Who the hell was this crazy person on a camel consuming wine, bread, and cheese in abundance, racing down their mountain? They stared and waved and then started down the mountain. After proceed- their arms. But they did not run away. That was too ing just a few hundred meters they ran into an old bad, because only seconds later Lawrence of Alanya man leading a female pack camel with a yearling teth- crashed into the market, upending vegetable stalls and ered to her saddle. She had delivered her load so the butchers’ blocks. Finally, the camel had had enough saddle was free of the usual heavy bags and parcels. and just stopped…short. Lawrence of Alanya went It held just the old man’s possessions. Suddenly, the sailing off and learned just how far it was to the ground challenge came to ride the camel down the mountain from the top of a camel’s hump. instead of walking. The Volunteer refused at first, but The Turks once again grabbed a new Lawrence… finally his honor was at stake; so, having ridden horses Lawrence of Alanya…and gave him another what-for. much of his life, he agreed. Lawrence then had to write home to Indiana to ask for The old man made the camel recline. The Volunteer a loan from his parents, who were none too pleased hopped on the saddle, trying to find a secure place to their son had “gone native” after just one year. grip his legs. The old man grabbed the lead and they Tarry Davis (T-15—Antalya and Ankara) were off at a nice, slow pace down the mountain. The

68 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey

23 No Fairy Tale: Ali Aslan and the Knife

Çağlayan (İstanbul ) & Bornova (İzmir ) 65-67 Kathleen M Ahearn ÇameliBir varmış, (Denizli) bir yokmuş. Eski bir zamanda bir yakışıklı 65-67 Robert K McBride ÇanAmerikan (Çanakkale) erkek & Bayburt barış gönüllusü lisede İngilizce 65-67 Stephen C Sego Çanakkaleöğretmek &için Uludağ Antalya’ya geldi. The principal, Mehmet 67-69 Bruce Kokernot ÇankırıBey, also known as the Beyaz Fare or White Mouse for 62-64 Allan R Gall Çankırıhis diminutive size and white hair, was very pleased 62-64 Peggy (Gall) Hanson Çayıralanto have another (Yozgat) English teacher, especially at no cost. 65-67 Myles R Denny-Brown ÇayıriciThe two Köyü Turkish (Tonya, teachers Trabzon) of English were thrilled to 65-67 Sandy Pfunder Çayıricilighten Köyütheir (Tonya,teaching Trabzon) loads. 65-67 Allen Neill Schauffler ÇaykenarıThe first(Korkuteli, of the Antalya) three years I taught in Turkey was 65-67 Anne Marie Boylon Çaykenarıa good one. (Korkuteli, So good Antalya) that in the second year the Beyaz 65-67 James F Wolf Çermik (Diyarbakır) 65-67 David D Kerman Fare trusted me with a difficult assignment: to teach Tarry Davis Çeşme 64-66 Thomas D Kral Tarry Davis (T-13) and his iki senelik class with Ali Aslan Çeşmethe third year “iki seneliks” (the students who were 67-69 Richard W Erdman (circled). Çeşmegoing to repeat a year). I was pleased until I learned 69-70 Diane Mott Çeşmethat the & TurkishAnkara teachers too were thrilled (to no lon- 66-68 Sarah Jean Rehder McKechnie Ceyhanger have (Adana) to teach these students). only63-65 high schoolKevin for rural M McCarthy kids in the vilayet (prov- CeyhanThen (Adana) came the first day of class. I thought I was ince).65-68 They boardedLarry Rin Montgomery local homes while attending Ceyhanprepared. (Adana) I now & Ankaraspoke passable Turkish. I had some school62-64 and wentStephen back to Allen their mountain villages on Ceyhanactual teaching(Adana) & under Ankara my - Gülveren belt and Gecekondu had worked in a weekends.65-67 Warren & Karen N Master Ceyhanhospital (Adana) for the & criminally Ankara - METU insane for two years to put 63-65I expected theJames usual J groupHogan stand-up and three “sağ Ceyhanmyself through(Adana) & college. Kozan “Tough” did not scare me. ol”63-65 salutes with rightDavid armB Bloch raised when I entered the CeyhanThe (Adana) first &day Sivas I walked into the classroom I saw classroom,62-64 just asCarl in Erikmy Olsonother classes. Instead I got Ceylanköy90 students (Lüleburgaz, sitting at Kırklareli) thirty desks—90 big students laughter64-66 and studentsKaren Lrefusing (Shifflet) to Riesettbe seated. I spoke Ceylanköywith beards, (Lüleburgaz, broad shoulders,Kırklareli) and no smiles; guys politely64-66 in TurkishDouglas the firstK Shifflet day explaining what we Çiçekdağ (Ardahan) & İstanbul & Ankara Maarif Kolejleri 65-68 Daniel D Rafferty strong enough to toss a sheep 5 meters. They were were going to do to be certain they passed the oral Çömlekçi Köyü (Muğla) 64-66 Charlotte A (Miller) Jirousek Çömlekçimostly köylü Köyü (country(Muğla) boys) because Antalya was the exams64-69 and graduatedMichael high E school.Miller They sort of listened Çömlekli (Korkuteli) 65-67 Daniel B Leahy continued on next page > Çorum 62-64 Terry Nichols ÇorumJudith Ellen Rusnock Jenkins Mike62-64 & Judie JeraldJames W Parker Çorum4925 Bartwood Dr. 10863-65 Oak St Rosie Suit Raleigh, NC 27613-7002 Brattleboro, VT 05301-2999 919-803-5948 ♦ T-04 802-257-0819 ♦ T-08 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Jennifer A Tubbs Jennings 5303 W Tortolita Flats Ln Michael E Jewell Marana, AZ 85658-4181 12201 Quorn Ln 520-744-5801 ♦ T-08 Reston, VA 20191-2626 [email protected] 703-860-3820 ♦ T-01/Staff [email protected] Kay Ann Donahue Jennings 924 North Highland Ave Charlotte A (Miller) Jirousek Pittsburgh, PA 15206-2108 1345 Slaterville Rd 412-661-1821 ♦ T-06 Ithaca, NY 14850-6275 607-273-8439 ♦ T-05 [email protected]

Sandy Comstock Anderson 64 / Arkadaşlar—FriendsGypsy children of playing Turkey at a swimming hole on the road to Gaziantep, 1968.

110 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey 24 but clearly they were in control. And they definitely at me and simply asked “Do you understand?” That were not intimidated. was also the first time I heard “öğretmenin vurduğu The second day the battle for control continued yerde bir gül biter” (“a rose will grow wherever a teacher when I only got a few feeble “sağ ols” on entering. I strikes”)—words I was to hear from parents many a was getting ready to pass out some study sheets when I time when they said “beat him, make him learn.” looked up and saw a well-dressed young man (the only Mouse then handed me his stick and motioned us city boy) named Zeki walking on the desk tops toward to leave. When we got back to the class room it was the front of the room. He had a knife in his right hand. I deathly quiet. I finished the lesson. Everyone started to asked him in Turkish what he was doing and he shouted leave but Ali Aslan lingered. I asked what he wanted “Allah karetsin, yabancı” (“damn you, foreigner”) and and he bumbled out something like “a favor.” So I met kept coming. Suddenly in the front row a young man him for tea after school and he explained that he knew I thought was the dumbest in the class stood up, took he was not the brightest bulb in the chandelier but that off his jacket, and stared Zeki down. Once you saw this he needed to pass and graduate or he would be stuck in young man, Ali Aslan (The Lion), you knew why Zeki his village. Ali also told me that Zeki was going to want retreated. Ali Aslan wanted to be a professional weight revenge and that I needed protection. From my prison lifter. Although he was only 5'9" he had muscles bulging experience I deduced that Ali and I had just made a everywhere and weighed at least 100 kilos. grand bargain. It seemed like a good deal. He looked at me and said we are going to see the The rest of the year Ali made the class behave. My mouse. He grabbed Zeki and off we went to the princi- iki seneliks, including Ali, passed their oral exams with pal’s office. He told the principal what had happened. flying colors—except for poor Zeki the Knife who The mouse picked up his large thick stick, walked dropped out of school and became a çayhane bum. over to Zeki from behind, took a swing Hank Aaron Ali Aslan did win a few local and national body- would have been proud of and hit the back of Zeki’s building contests and then went back to school and legs, tumbling the big lad screaming to the ground. became a gym teacher in Antalya. I never used the He then thanked Ali and told him to go back to class. mouse’s stick except to pound the desk for attention, The next five minutes he beat Zeki. No marks. No but kept it for many years. blood. But stroke after stroke. Then the mouse looked Tarry Davis (T-13—Antalya and Ankara)

RemedyJoan (Rosenbaum) for a Hangover Johnson Patsy L Jones 14 Cottage Ln 6803 40th Ave San Carlos, CA 94070 University Park, MD 20782 This remedy is one that some friends introduced my 650-592-4599 ♦ T-15 ♦ Friend of Turkey roommate and me to one evening after several hours [email protected] inKenneth a pavyon G Johnson watching the dancing and drinking of what16 Leeward I recall Rd was quite a large quantity of rakı. As Patricia (Wight) Jordan weBelvedere, walked CA down 94920 the İzmir Birinci Kordon at about PO Box 1009 three415-435-5726 in the morning, ♦ T-10 we all agreed we would prob- Mt. Vernon, WA 98273-1009 [email protected] wake up with miserable hangovers in a few hours. 360-419-0791 ♦ T-17 But our friends told us they had the perfect preventa- [email protected] tiveElaine measure, R Jones guaranteed to ward off hangovers. We agreed1417 Whittier to try it, St, and NW they took us to a tiny hole-in-the- Mary Linda Laatsch Kaila Louise Duesing McMaster Washington, DC 20012 Buying612 Payton sheep Dr at market. wall restaurant, all brightly-lit, white tile with about ♦ T-08 Fredericksburg, VA 22405-2251 six tables. Many of the tables were occupied, even at plate540-373-8930 was an entire, ♦ T-04 fully intact, roasted sheep’s head, thatMargo late R (early)Jones hour. [email protected] with ears and wholly recognizable. As I said, 10850We Bellerive were talking, La so my roommate and I didn’t I’d had a fair amount of rakı, so I started in. I let my payBerlin, much MD attention21811-3342 when one of them ordered the roommate take care of the eyes and the brains, but the meal,914-980-3923 and we drank♦ T-10 çay for about half an hour while rest of it actually tasted quite good, which may or may [email protected] waited. Then out came the owner/waiter with a not have been due to the lingering effects of the rakı. large, round tray, and, with a flourish, he put it down In any case, I did not have a hangover when I on the next table. (It took up most of the table). He woke up! Addresses / 65 placed a single plate in front of each of us, and on each Lynn Maichle (T-16—İzmir)

25 Stacy F Rockwood Murray S Rosenbaum 506 Flood St 9792 E Monument Dr New Orleans, LA 70117-3033 Scottsdale, AZ 85262 504-301-5948 ♦ T-06 480-350-7701 ♦ T-15 [email protected] [email protected]

Robert Rodman Richard L & Shirley Ann Schemell Rothwell PO Box 65 94 Woodstock Dr 21300 Osprey Loop Sherwood Park, AL, T8A 4E2 Rollins, MT 59931-0065 Canada 406-844-2242 ♦ T-17 403-467-6425 ♦ T-01 & T-03 [email protected], Suzanne H Grelson Rom [email protected] 14 Mansfield Dr Chelmsford, MA 01824-3806 Kate Alderman Ruby 978-376-9808 ♦ T-05 1 Hartwood Ct. [email protected] Lafayette, CA 94549 925-283-4699 ♦ T-04 Barbara J Roos [email protected] 1050 Fell St Apt. 6 San Francisco, CA 94117-2329 Walter K Ruehlig 415-255-8467 ♦ T-15 4940 Green Hills Cir [email protected] Antioch, CA 94531-7612 925-706-8029 ♦ T-16 [email protected]

84 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey İşkembe Çorbası Trilogy

I have a distinct memory of my first (and only) expe- demands a commitment. It is a traditional soup for rience with işkembe çorbası (tripe soup). During the “morning after” or before. In İstanbul, there were the first week after our arrival in Buca (southeast of several işkembecis down in Karaköy where the late Izmir), my roommate and I walked up into town night denizens would gather and feast before trying from the little house we were renting and stopped at to make it home. Another delicacy of the place was a small restaurant on the main (just about the only) “paça,” which was made from sheep’s hooves and other street. To be adventurous, we chose a few things off choice parts. That with a little kokoreç (sheep’s guts) the menu without knowing what they were. When washed down with some ayran, and you qualified to the soup arrived, it looked like a light New England be a hakiki Türk! I learned to love it all! clam chowder, and when I took my first spoonful I Gene Zajac (T-13—Korkuteli, Alanya) remember thinking “oh, this is pretty tasty.” Unfor- tunately, I then looked up “işkembe çorbası” in my I had this soup in a very nice (not fancy) restaurant in trusty Langenscheidt’s lugat, saw the words “paunch” Balıkesir several times. It was the texture of cream of and “tripe,” and couldn’t bring myself to take another chicken soup, but it had a rather acidic taste. Like all bite. If I had left my dictionary at home or waited of us, I finally looked it up and found an immediate until later to look it up, I would probably love that dislike for it. At New Year’s Eve, I saw some cooking soup to this day…yazık. on the stove of a private home of a PC friend, and Lynn Maichle (T-16—Izmir) found actual pieces. I thought it looked like a beehive! Philip Konkel (T-15— İşkembe, made from sheep’s “bits,” vinegar, garlic, Kepsut, Balıkesir, and Ankara) and lots of spices, especially pepper, is a soup that

İşkembe Çorbası • 250 grams veal tripe, washed with water and soap 2. Melt the butter, add the flour, stir and slowly several times using a brush pour about 2 cups of warm boiled water while • 4–5 cups water stirring constantly. They should blend very well. • Salt Then add in the tripe. Cook 15-20 minutes over • 2 tbsp butter slightly less than medium heat. • 3 tbsp all purpose flour 3. Take a few spoons of liquid from the pot and • 1 egg yolk blend well with the egg yolk in a bowl. Then • Sauce: slowly pour the mixture into the pot while stir- 2 garlic cloves, smashed with salt ring very slowly. Cook for 3–4 more minutes 4–5 tbsp wine vinegar with raspberry juice, or over medium heat. If it is too thick add a little bit another type of vinegar more boiled water. Pour the soup into the bowls. 1. Cook the tripe with water and salt for about 1.5 4. Mix the garlic and vinegar in a small bowl and to 2 hours or until tender. You may also use a pour one tablespoon into the soup. Serve this pressure cooker to cook in a shorter time. Remove traditional Turkish Tripe Soup while still hot. the foam from the surface. Take the cooked tripe Makes 2 servings. out of the water (keep the water) and cut in bite- sized chunks over a cutting board.

80 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey

26 TheOsmaneli Story (Bilecik) of Hamsi Townspeople65-67 wouldJacqueline dance McKee along Day the liman, accom- Osmaniye (Adana) panied67-69 by fiddlers,George and Rrun Majors up and down the main Osmaniye (Adana) & Ankara 65-68 Susan Foster Mariani Speaking of the street merchants hawking their wares, street shouting “hamsi geldi, hamsi geldi!” Everyone Pamukova 67-69 Sharon E Gordon I Paşlıkayawas reminded (Hatay) of& Gültepemy year (Ankara) in Giresun on the Black was64-66 singing “hamsiPhilip geldi, A Young hamsi geldi.” I don’t recall SeaPazaryeri coast (Bilecik)when hamsi season arrived. Hamsi are the a 67-69particular song, Robertbut I wouldn’tW. Eschenbach be surprised if there tiny,Perşembe oily fishKöyü that(Çaycuma, are deep-fried Zonguldak) and served hot with had64-66 been one. LongThomas crowds & ofMary people Ellen wouldHogan formJackson on rakı.Polatlı They & Ankara began to run in schools in late February the64-66 liman to buy hamsiSharron as Rthe Pollard fishermen Cooper brought their orPolatlı early & March Ankara near- METU the harbor when the Black Sea boats64-66 near the dock.Mary There Jo Pietrykowski-Martens was pushing and shoving watersPülümür got (Tünceli) cold. Boats & Sultanhisar would be (Nazilli, out trying Aydin) to find the to65-67 buy them. AfterDavid I ate Wthem Vandegrift the first time, I was out schools.Rize As the hamsi run began, local fishing boats there64-66 the next nightJoyce fighting Davis for room to make my nettedRize the fish, came quickly to the dock, and loaded own64-66 purchase. ThereDorien was Grunbaum nothing like it. themRize into wooden boxes. The lorries with the boxes 64-66When the hamsiCarol first P Pittardarrived, Siller they would be served loadedRize sped away to get to neighboring towns where in64-66 the best restaurantSusan at Amadonquite a highWilt price. After a few consumersRize began their annual hamsi fests. days66-68 when they becameCarol E Arthur more plentiful,Seielstad they would Salihli (Manisa) & Burdur appear64-66 in baskets Kathleennear the Waljeskiharbor Kralfor sale at maybe a Salihli (Manisa) & İzmir 65-67 Fred R Wallhausser third of the price they had been just a few days prior. Salihli (Manisa) & Kütahya 62-64 Monty G Peters Salihli (Manisa) & Sarıgöl (Manisa) They64-66 would run forSusan a few G Haynes weeks, Özbek and by that time we Samsun had63-65 consumed hamsiRonald in everyC Jennings dish except for dessert, Samsun and64-66 they would beJudith giving M themOrlemann away on the dock for Samsun virtually64-66 no money.Ruth K Shelby Samsun 65-67For a few moreRobert days thereM McLaughlin would be basketsful for Samsun twenty-five65-67 kuruş Geoffreyon almost H everyRobinson street. In those days, Samsun there66-67 was not enoughDavid refrigeration H Baris to preserve them, Samsun so66-67 the shouts of “hamsiMaija geldi!”Siktars Gazurdied a quiet death wait- Samsun ing66-68 for the next year.Stephen M & Gail H Cooper Samsun 68-69Unfortunately, HenryI do & not Bunny have Polmer any photos of this Danny and Joanne White Samsun event.68-70 I viewed thisDaniel mostly M Callahan from the window of the Fishing boats in the harbor in Sinop on the Black Sea. Samsun dockmaster’s69-70 office.Alex Vogel He invited us up to watch since Samsun & Ankara - Hacettepe 66-68 Jane Ann Cairns McCullough There would be folks out on the liman (harbor) the arrival of the hamsi was such a big deal for Gire- Şanlıurfa 64-66 Dennis W & Sally B Heggie Copeland withSapanca violins and kerosene lanterns. They would be sun.65-67 It was really aMary memorable Bigger time. singingSapanca to & the Sakarya hamsi to get them to come nearer to the 66-68 Joel M LevinePatrick Oliver-Kelly (T-08— limanSarıgöl so & the Manisa fishermen could net them from the dock. 68-70 Judith Lynn GorntoGiresun Ülgen and Ankara) Sarıkamış & Ankara - METU 65-67 Kenneth & Ann S Long Sarıkamış & Düzce 64-66 Judith A Havens Altuğ AnkaraŞarköy - (Tekirdağ)Hacettepe 68-7065-67 IngridJoyce CL Koch-AdlerHarper Ankara - Hacettepe 68-70 Louise M Duesing McMaster Ankara - Hacettepe 68-70 Michael J Metrinko Ankara - Hacettepe 69-70 William Ray Woodward Ankara - Hacettepe & Ankara Universiteleri 64-66 Leilani Luis Wilson Ankara - Hacettepe & Cağlayan (İstanbul) 65-67 Joseph M Daley, Jr. Ankara - Hacettepe & Cağlayan (İstanbul) 65-67 Stanley J Grossman Ankara - Hacettepe & İzmir 66-67 Frank R & Karen Shinehouse Timmons Ankara - METU 64-66 Fred J Bueche Ankara - METU 64-66 Nancy Smith Colligan Ankara - METU 64-66 Susan E C Teller Goodman Ankara - METU 64-66 Michael E Green Ankara - METU 64-66 Sarah Elizabeth Parker Ankara - METU 64-66 Danny V & Joanne White Thomas and Kathleen Waljeski Kral Jim and Linda Ballard Ankara - METU 65-67 Robert J Baum Kathy Waljeski Kral (T-04) with children in Salihli. Sorting beans at the market in Ankara.

122 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey Sites in Turkey / 105

27 Adventures with the Gaziantep Orphans Some things had changed, but not as much as I had imagined. All the original workers were gone, of course: It was early spring when I decided to take my orphans the Arab woman with her blue face tattoos; the direc- for a town walk. They were all dressed exactly the same tor with his gold teeth and fondness for long lunches; in their very best plaid clothes, which were made from Fatma, who had been an orphan herself, always scream- material confiscated from smugglers on the Turkish- ing at the children; the tall, silent caretaker with the Syrian border. They wore matching straw hats and patience of a saint; and another caretaker who used to looked adorable. laugh at me for whistling in the hallways. The facilities had changed very little. The play- ground across the street, which had had a beautiful shade tree, was now a parking lot. The back play- ground looked pretty much the same. The large room where I had had my play school had been divided into separate rooms, one for a television where the larger children were crowded in to watch. The babies were still housed upstairs. Unfortunately, child care methods still seemed fairly primitive. The babies were crying in their cribs, and when I went over to one I realized that his little foot was stuck between the crib and the wall. Then I noticed that the other babies were stuck also. I real- Front row, left to right: Mehmet, Topatch, unknown, Ni- ized that it had been done on purpose to limit the hati, unknown, Muzaffer.; second row: Ahmet, Muamber, babies’ mobility and to keep them from falling out of Ali, Ibrahim, Saban, Ali; third row: Ümmü Gülsün, Ner- the cribs. I raised a bit of a fuss, of course, though I’m min, Lynda, Necla, Fatma. sure my protests did little good once I was gone. That visit brought back other memories of my two Off we went, about twenty of us, accompanied by years at the orphanage. Since I had had few craft sup- nurses Fatma and Neslihan and one of the caretakers. I plies, I made my own. I bought toothpicks, string, don’t remember if we had an exact route in mind, but dried beans, paper…anything I could think of that somehow we ended up on the other side of the stream continued on next page > behind the apartment I shared with the other PC vol- unteers. The usually quiet, meandering stream was sud- denly a torrent of cold spring snowmelt rushing down from the nearby hills. With the little ones getting tired, we didn’t want to retrace our steps, but the only way across was over a carefully placed log. How hard could it be, I remember thinking, with all the adults helping? The first few children crossed successfully. Then one boy slipped, and he was followed by three oth- ers as they leaned over to see what was happening. I jumped in to fish them out one by one. Fortunately, the water wasn’t too deep. We took the soggy troop up to my apartment to dry off. You can imagine my dis- appointment when, on a visit to Gaziantep in 2003, I saw that the streambed was now concrete and the stream a mere trickle. No more adventures there. On that same 2003 trip to Gaziantep, I visited the orphanage again for the first time since I left in 1967. Antep orphans at work.

116 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey

28 would be useful. I bought some dye at the bazaar and sprinkled all over the floor unnoticed—until the dye Kepsut (Balıkesir) & Ankara 67-69 Philip L Konkel began dyeing the pile with beautiful colors, the more met the water. The dear caretaker never complained, Kepsut (Balıkesir) & Ankara 68-70 Mary Angela Cates garish the better: chartreuse, turquoise, magenta, yel- but he mopped and mopped all afternoon. Keşan (Edirne) & Ankara - METU 65-67 John Hurd Willett Keşanlow. (Edirne)When everything & İstanbul -was Gültepe dry andgecekondu ready, I brought in 65-67One last memoryElliot R Eisenberg was of my first Christmas in Kilimlimy first (Zonguldak) little group of children. 65-67Gaziantep. My Arthurfellow AntmanPC volunteers and I decided to KilimliThe (Zonguldak) caretakers kept the orphanage squeaky clean 65-67have a great partyEd Gat Elenbaasthe orphanage to commemorate Kilisand (Gaziantep) were constantly mopping the halls and bath- 63-65St. Nicholas, whoPaul was, Coleman after all,Cochran born in Turkey, which Kilisroom, (Gaziantep) which was& Ankara just down the hall from my room. 65-67was new informationWilliam for J & me Carol at theA Greenwald time. For weeks I KırıkhanAfter the (Hatay) kids had pasted and collaged the hand-dyed 65-67sewed cloth dollsMargaret on our M old Walters Singer Miyake treadle machine. Kırıkkaleitems, they traipsed to the bathroom to wash up. Sud- 62-64Mimi Jones’s studentsWarren Dat Kinsman, the Kız Jr.Institute also made Kırıkkaledenly, I noticed a rainbow of wet footprints all over 62-64dolls and stuffedDavid animals. F Long Students from Leslie Peirce’s Kırıkkalethe floor and, to my horror, saw the footprints march 65-67and Joanne Omang’sConrad EnglishA Hornick classes prepared a play Kırıkkaleup and down the hall. The powdery dye had fallen and 65-67and music. WeMichael had cake W Smithand cookies for everybody, Kırıkkale & Ankara - METU 63-65probably sixty childrenJames W andLay ten adults in all. Kırıkkale & Eceabat 63-65 Terry Brandt The festivities were a smashing success. At the end Kırıkkale & İzmir & Erzurum 62-66 Michael E Jewell of the play, St. Nick, who was played by one of the Kırıkkale & Kozan 63-65 Franklin Bouvy Kırıkkale & Kütahya 64-66taller students dressedSusan J (Bray) in a Townerough-looking Santa suit Kırklareli & Eyüp (İstanbul ) 64-66that had appearedVirginia from Pearsall God Kirkwood knows where, passed Kırklareli (Thrace) 65-66out our homemadeCarol dollsSalera asSeagren presents to the children. Kırşehir 63-65Utter chaos followedPatricia as Smith the children Eichenlaub grabbed and mar- Kırşehir & Ankara 64-66veled at the toys,Eloise probably M Miller the McConnaughey first ones they had ever Kırşehir & Ürgüp 65-67owned themselves.Martin It wasB & a Patsy very J movingTracy scene. Kısas Köyü (Urfa) 65-67I remember Guyfeeling Gattis very self-satisfied. Three days Kısas Köyü (Urfa) & Bilecik 65-67later, there was Chesternot one B doll Thomas that survived intact. They Kızacık & Duraca Köyleri (Kastamonu) 64-66had all been tornLarry to Pbits & Carolyn by the Jlittle Omo ones. The chil- Kızılhisar & İstanbul 65-67dren must haveLloyd really R enjoyed George them while they lasted. Konya 63-65 Laura B Brown Lyons Konya 63-65 Dorine A Goulette Meade The Antep orphanage Christmas party. Linda Wykoff Özgür (T-06—Gaziantep) Konya 63-65 Ann T Weick Konya 65-67 Shirley McCorkle Kempton Konya 65-67 Sandra Love Mensch İzmir & Ankara 63-65 Leonard Giesecke Konya 67-69 Peter C Nadell İzmir & Ankara 64-65 Mary T Giesecke Konya 69-70 Monica A Seng İzmir & Ankara 65-66 Janet Nesbitt Thompson İzmir & Ankara 65-67 Flicka L Tate Bateman İzmir & Ankara 66-68 Robert L Robertson Izmir & Bodrum 65-67 Lance V & Ginny J Packer İzmir & Erzurum 65-67 Margaret S Fearey İzmir & Erzurum 65-67 James Robert Wheeler İzmit 63-65 Lyle H Bjork İzmit & Ankara 63-65 William R Barnes İzmit & Ankara & Urfa 64-66 Michael S Scholnick İzmit & Ankara – METU 65-67 Mary Jean Barley Kabaköz Köyü (Şile) & Şile (İstanbul ) 65-67 David F & Elaina L Jamieson Kadıköy (İstanbul) 67-69 Bryan E DeLeo Kadıköy (İstanbul) 67-69 Ronald A Pachence Kadıköy (İstanbul) 68-70 Rodney J Ballard Kadıköy (İstanbul) 69-70 Diana J Ziegler LaViolette Kadıköy (İstanbul) & Ankara 68-70 Joseph T & Corinne Merkel Christy Kadıköy (İstanbul) - Maarif Koleji 69-70 Moses RichardSilverman Janzig An extended family, their camels and kangal sheepdogs migrating north to spring pastures for their sheep near Gaziantep, 1968. Sites in Turkey / 117 Sites in Turkey / 119 29 Poofabilir, Scorpions, and the Woodshed frail, and even though it was padlocked, I noticed a bent nail over the top that was actually all that kept We had just arrived in Giresun, fresh from Robert the door closed. I turned the bent nail around and College, and were moving into the house the previ- opened the door to get some wood, only to find what ous volunteers had used. It was a second-story walk- appeared to be an arsenal of guns, hand grenades, and up, pretty rustic, with the landlord downstairs. It had bullets. typical naked-blub lighting and paper-thin walls that dripped with moisture as the humidity condensed. We also had hazelnut stoves in all three rooms—the sitting room, the sleeping room, and the kitchen. “Poofabilir” was the verb we used to describe what happened when the hazelnut shells combusted in the stove. The lid popped up and released a slight puff of smoke the instant the shells combusted…“pooftid.” Black scorpions seemed to be everywhere: on the floor, in the toilet, in the shower room, and inthe washroom. The place was lousy with them. One super achiever had actually climbed up the wall over the bed and fell onto the pillow as I turned on the light. Lora Hagglund Anderson We were told that they weren’t poisonous; they might Water buffalo were used to pull sleds of wood gathered make us a little “hasta,” but they weren’t poisonous. from forests around the village. As we settled in, we noticed that the landlord had forgotten to give us a key to the wood room. The crates all bore the stamp “NATO.” The con- The water heater was heated by wood or hazelnut tents were serious armaments. Rifles leaned against shells that we stuffed into the lower portion of the the walls, and hand grenades filled a box about half heater. The shower nozzle hung just over the heater, the size of the ammunition boxes. just far enough away that we wouldn’t touch the We only stayed in the place for a couple more days heater itself as we showered. when a teacher at our school helped find us another, Over the course of the next few days, the landlord more modern place, nearer the school and less trigger- kept promising to give us the key, but the key failed ridden. to appear. We were then desperate for a shower. The Patrick Oliver-Kelly (T-08, wood room was not Fort Knox. It was a little shack Giresun and Ankara) off the side of the building. The door looked pretty

Bursa 63-65 Judith Ann Gordon Fredette Bursa 65-67 Elizabeth A Schrom Bursa 66-68 Linda Ann Cremieux Gould Bursa 67-69 Frank & Caroline Martin Bursa 69-70 Sandra L Schwartz Bursa & Adapazarı & Sivas 63-65 Patricia Mitchell Lowther Bursa & Ankara 63-66 Jean A Zukowski/Faust Bursa & Ankara - METU 66-68 Priscilla Russell Bursa & Hacibektaş & Ankara 63-66 Sandra Lee Diekmann Brown Bursa & İstanbul & İzmir 66-68 Karen R deCormier Tiregol Bursa & Kirşehir & Çorum 63-65 Carol A Crumlish Bursa & Trabzon 62-64 Jean Zettlemoyer Gerber Bursa & Trabzon 62-64 Nina A Selz Bursa & Trabzon 64-66 Mary Lynn Laufer

Sites in Turkey / 109

30 Arkadaşlar Bir Varmış Bir Yokmuş... “Once Upon a Time...” Arkadaşlar Membership Directory 2013Membership Directory

Membership Directory 2013

Peace Corps Turkey 1962 – 1970

Sandy Pfunder This is how the villagers plowed their fields, using a hand-made device (called a “bel” in Turkish) that was a cross between a spade and a pitchfork. The soil was too heavy for horse- or mule-drawn plows, and the terrain was too steep for tractors, so the plowing was done by hand. When a village family first started to plow their fields, neighbors would gather to help out for a few hours. After that first day, the family had to finish the job by themselves. My site partner, Allen Neill Schauffler, is third from the left in both pictures. My landlord’s son and his wife are at the right-hand end of the line. The others are neighbors.

Baltimore Valerie L Olson Massachusetts Baltimore Rosie Suit Berlin Margo R Jones Margaret S Fearey Bethesda William Bechhoefer Acton Patricia E Grigaitis Schappert Bethesda Margaret R Dittemore 31 Belchertown Joyce L Harper Bethesda John P Wintrol Belmont Dennis & Judith Venezia Kavanagh Burkittsville Doris G Malin Boston Paul F Quirk Chestertown Sheila A Austrian Burlington Julia M O’Reilly Eggleston Cheverly Bette L (Taylor) Lemperle Cambridge Colleen J Clark Chevy Chase Larry Colbert Cambridge Mary Jo Del Vecchio Good Chevy Chase Richard W Erdman Chelmsford Suzanne H Grelson Rom Clarksville Bruce A Eberle Chilmark Susan Strane Darnestown David H Baris Concord Thomas F Brosnahan Ellicott City William K Tobin Duxbury Gene V Blanchard Frederick Estes & Sally Marvin Lockhart East Boston Anita Ferber Nasra Gaithersburg Thomas & Kathleen Waljeski Kral East Falmouth Alice M Nicholson Galick Germantown Mary E Gillespie Eastham Arthur & Patricia Dimond Kensington Sandy Pfunder North Bethesda Yıldız Yağcı Gloucester James C Dinsmore Randallston Bob Bloor Gloucester Janet N MacNulty McAveeney Rockville Roberta A Harrison Hamilton Karin I Bergmann Boroff Rockville Charles H & Mujgan Oğuz Matterson Lincoln Gay Van Ausdall Saint Leonard Sandra L Comstock Anderson Middleton Gilbert Earl Scharfenberger Salisbury Timothy S Miller Needham Priscilla Murray Silver Spring Marcia B Bordman Newton Martha J Hayden Silver Spring Gerald Karey Northampton Kingsley Sullivan Silver Spring Laurie F Richardson Northborough Barton K Stevens Silver Spring Joan Strickler Weeks South Natick David P Parish Takoma Park Claudia J Liebler Stockbridge Fred R Wallhausser Takoma Park James F Wolf Swampscott David Kerman & Jura Strimaitis Towson Susan J Zator Swampscott June S Beale Solaqua University Park Patsy L Jones Wellesley Svea Gustafson Fraser University Park Serap Rada Westborough Paula Rosberry Sundstrom Worcester Thomas G Bostock

132 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey Arkadaşlar Our Story from Amca Peace Corps Turkey A Retrospective by David N. Weinman During the heady days of 1961/62 R. Sargent Shriv- er, the first Peace Corps Director, spent many hours fly- ing overseas to discuss the idea with countries eager to learn about the new "mid-level manpower." These "dif- ferent Americans" were to symbolize a powerful antidote to the old images of tired diplomats and "ugly" foreign aid technicians who often lived in deluxe styles far re- moved from the average host country national. In many instances Volunteers actually became the first significant American presence to reside in a country. Consequently Ellie LeBaron, (T-15) early pictures of Peace Corps life abroad often showed Volunteers being greeted by host country Presidents and officials, or themselves by ignoring the constraints of a other high officials expressing warm words of welcome secular but Muslim culture. This stance did not change and appreciation for their coming. In case the reader dramatically during PC/T's tenure. can't recapture the picture, that was "not" Turkey and Programmatically the Government of Turkey (GOT) for some very understandable reasons! wanted TEFL volunteers, but beyond that was in no Within the framework of a well-ensconced Cold War hurry to identify or seek the availability of other skills. and influenced by the generosity of the Truman plan's aid As a result, the milieu for developing a Peace Corps to Greece and Turkey, the U.S. and Turkey had forged a presence differed significantly from those in more en- very close and interactive partnership which had resulted thusiastic settings. This was further attenuated by the in large numbers of U.S. military and foreign aid tech- fact that the Volunteers were clearly not going to suf- nicians going to Turkey. By September 6, 1962, when fer severe physical deprivation, a situation at odds with Turkey 1 disembarked at Ankara's Esenboğa airport, the the ever constant hair-shirt image of early Peace Corps. trappings of "dostluk" had been in evidence for some The knowledge that Turkey would prove to be one of time. Turkey agreed to accept "middle-level manpower," the most difficult programs in terms of Volunteer men- but there was not a genuine understanding of the con- tal health pressures growing out of a gender-segregated cept, and, therefore, no impetus to assess its potential society was yet to be learned! contribution in glowing terms. Turks had long since As Peace Corps/Washington (PC/W) on a weekly become accustomed to skilled technicians criss-crossing basis regaled the Acting Director with tales of huge re- Anatolia. Thus, Peace Corps/Turkey (PC/T) from the quests for Volunteers being generated in neighboring beginning was not granted that feeling of specialness countries, Turkey 1 worked quietly to establish the rec- which many other Volunteers experienced, at least un- ognition and value of a different kind of foreign aid. til they had integrated themselves into their respective The Ankara office was not besieged by Foreign Ministry towns. In Ankara, the Turkish officials assigned to work requests, though private individuals began to call. Staff with Peace Corps staff were lower level in rank and gen- in fact was excessively engaged in trying to convince erally bureaucratically conservative in attempting to de- GOT that eight Agricultural Volunteers could make a rive full return from one more U.S. contribution. With contribution, even though they were not technicians. a Peace Corps staff of one having preceded the Volun- The ultimate irony of that particular effort was wrought teers by only seven weeks, Turkish officials were basically in the Spring of 1963, when a Washington evaluator content to watch and hold their breath that the younger came to review the first year. About a month before his Americans would not embarrass the government, local arrival and first exposure to a developing country, PC/T

Peace Corps Turkey—A Retrospective / 7

32 had finally secured permission to place two PCVs in ing toward its numerical zenith, soon attained by Turkey a village outside Ankara, surely the forerunner to rural 12's arrival in late Fall. Turkey 12 embodied the worst of community development! Toward the end of the evalu- Peace Corps planning both in its specifics and in stretch- ator's stay after his visits to both TEFL and the disen- ing PC/T's ability to manage the overall program which chanted Ag Volunteers, the Acting Director and he went had reached almost 600 and was third largest worldwide. to the new village, the former with great relief at moving Even the Peace Corps was not exempt from charges of closer to PC/W's "real Peace Corps," the latter about hubris! The situation was probably best illustrated by the to experience a virulent form of culture shock due to quick transition between the outgoing director and Dr. observing a rural Turkish way of life spanning centuries! David Berlew, the new Director and former MIT pro- Early-on the two jubilant PCVs, feeling useful for the fessor, consisting of an earlier brief U.S. meeting and a first time in six months, casually mentioned their new twelve-hour overnight between Pam Am flights, when badges of acculturation, bug-bites. On the ride back to Berlew arrived in Ankara. It turned out to be a portent the office the evaluator ordered the Director to remove of things to come! the PCVs from the village, a mandate which was most Turkey 12 stands thus as PC/T's hydra, both high- diplomatically rejected with the equivalent of F... you. water mark and Waterloo. Its genesis was a small experi- The evaluator did not forget, when he later wrote the ment in Ankara's Gülveren gecekondu, later known as program in Turkey was operating quite well, except for Urban Community Development. Dr. İhsan Doğramacı, the Acting Director! Director of Hacettepe Hospital in Ankara and creative In its first year Turkey 1 performed as hoped, and founder of Hacettepe University, finally agreed with the the result was a second request for TEFL, to be followed PC/T Director to bring a larger group to continue and by Turkey 3, an amalgam of 30+ Volunteers with back- expand the experiment country-wide. Turkey 12 was grounds in Nursing, Home Economics, and Business recruited and had almost finished its training, when Education arriving in December '63. Ross Pritchard, Doğramacı backed out of the project. The Peace Corps a former college Professor and congressional candidate hastily decided to add one month to the training and from Memphis, arrived in September '63 to become reframe the concept to have PCVs work in TB labs in Director. Many Turkey 1 Volunteers moved to open the morning and do urban CD in the afternoons, being new sites for their second year, as TEFL in Turkey grew careful not to emphasize the latter to Turkish officials beyond 100. The new Director, steeped in evaluation who believed they were getting PCVs for a full day. reports he had read on the importance of Community The program imploded in barely five months, as it Development, moved quickly to sell GOT on that "felt became clear that the TB center "müdürs" had no real need." The government responded by requesting Turkey work to offer PCVs except clerical. Volunteer disillusion- 5, while displaying little real understanding of what they ment under those circumstances was natural, quick, and had ordered. Turks have always been sensitive about the sharp. One solution made sense, and that was to end the conditions of their villages, and it was only their lack program immediately, transferring those who wanted to of knowledge about Community Development which remain to other ongoing activities and allowing the re- allowed them to consider placing foreigners there, if mainder to return home. Unfortunately Peace Corps/ that's what the Americans wanted. Peace Corps/Tur- Washington insisted on charging the transportation costs key numerically took off, and by September '64 totaled to the PCVs, in line with the existing policy for early de- over 300 PCVs. In the Fall of 1964 the mosaic of PC/T partures. Nevertheless, a letter signed by the PC/T staff to changed dramatically, when Volunteers moved for the Director Jack Hood Vaughn, Shriver's successor, support- first time into villages and as singly assigned teachers to ing the payment, ultimately had an effect, when PC/W remote kazas of eastern Turkey. one year later changed its policy, sadly not retroactively. As this was happening, an external event of major Earlier in the Fall of '65 PC/T had suffered another significance for the Peace Corps occurred. The Turkish/ blow to its credibility with the arrival of its largest group Cyprus crisis flared, forever lowering the odds that even ever, 200+ Volunteers in Turkey 8. It turned out that GOT a modest, very carefully planned program, which PC/T had not made plans to utilize them at all, and so a cadre was not at that time, would be able to survive the ef- of 30 or so were left to depart Ankara and move around fect. As the pace of Turkish external and then internal Turkey looking for TEFL positions. Finally everybody was politics began to accelerate, so did the watchful stance placed, but neither Turkish officials who heard about it nor of GOT, as it observed foreigners living intimately in all the PCVs involved, ever quite forgot the embarrassment. geographic areas. By September 1965 PC/T was head- A year later when staff held a round of regional meetings,

8 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey

33 the anguished comments of the Volunteers were still to be GOT agreement the program was terminated at age heard along with their impatience at Ankara's admin op- eight. PC/W had asked the first Director to make a field eration not being able to meet their needs quickly enough. assessment which was followed by a few additional U.S./ Thus PC/T, having violated the dictum that small can be Embassy contacts in the summer of 1970. The Peace beautiful, foundered on managing a very large program in Corps offered a change in program and sought direct an increasingly fractious environment. As a result the map administration by GOT. Turkey discussed the possibility at headquarters which had a pin for each site gradually of receiving more technical skills along with TEFL. In shrank. No longer were Volunteers to work from Çeşme the end it appears that both parties heaved a small sigh of in the west to a village just west of Lake Van. relief and agreed to talk again at a future date uncertain! The unanticipated transfer of Dave Berlew added to One Volunteer English teacher stayed to finish his tour the now seemingly jinxed Peace Corps life. This was one in June '71. event of a series which made the spring of '66 memo- In retrospect, Turkey without question was a very dif- rable! In April PC/W, though forewarned, was shocked ficult Peace Corps assignment. The kudos, and there were to learn that GOT had dramatically cut back its requests, a number at the actual working level of the Volunteer, especially in CD where only Turkey 10, having trained were more often overridden by the journalistic headlines during the previous summer after junior year, was al- and charges of CIA agents at work. It was not categori- lowed to arrive. The cut also caught PC/T by surprise, cal that the program had to die in eight years, but the since a key piece of knowledge had not been communi- combination of GOT's low-level involvement (though cated during the transition of Directors. The new Direc- at one point GOT actually made a small host country tor did not know that no request for PCVs was ever to contribution), Turkey's descent into the morass of vio- be considered official until processed from the oversight lence and radical politics, and PC/T's occasional lapses ministry through the Foreign Ministry. The impact of into developing "our" program formed an explosive mix. this oversight was even more clear after PC/T officials Had the students who learned English, the children who were called on the carpet by the Foreign Ministry to found an improved orphanage life, or the patients who explain how some PC group (actually Turkey 12) had learned what nursing care is really about, had a voice, never been officially cleared for Turkey but was appar- there might have been a different ending. ently in country! With the above I have attempted to provide a gen- Donovan McClure, a former journalist and Peace erally chronological and purposely anecdotal summary. Corps Director in Sierra Leone, arrived in mid-1966 as In discussing the Peace Corps experience in Turkey as PC/T's fourth Director. Collectively McClure and his elsewhere, there are many other questions worthy of dis- staff worked hard to change directions, aided and abet- cussion. One thinks immediately of asking what the real ted by the GOT which, if it wasn't sure what it really contribution to Turkey was. Unfortunately in a world wanted, knew it did not want more American friends where information increasingly drives our days, there is in suspect places such as villages and schools which now no real backlog of such data, though we made PPBS esti- had sufficient Turkish English teachers. Volunteers were mates as all federal agencies did. Personally I am content admonished to be strict in their demeanor and appear- to let each PCV and staff member answer the question ance. Most were, but the 1966/67 school year brought on his or her terms. It is clear from all the visits with some discomfort as non-Ankara PCVs contemplating Turkish officialdom that much service was rendered. A facial hair were discouraged, and a few who insisted on good number of children and adults learned English; bringing America's new drug habits to Turkey were sent hospitals glimpsed what up-graded nursing skills could home. Overall, however, life became calmer, and smaller mean; orphanages began to consider that baby-sitting numbers brought a respite, as GOT continued its sup- small children might not be the best alternative, and port of TEFL, Child Care, Nursing, and sought a new rural villagers learned new techniques to lessen the pov- Tourism project. erty surrounding them. Holding an incremental view of Summer 1968 brought the arrival of PC/T's last Di- development I have personally not wavered in strongly rector, Jack Corey, a Social Welfare Official from Cali- believing that the Peace Corps, warts and all, was and is fornia. Turkey's domestic politics brought PC/T's great- a truly noble endeavor. est challenge, as escalating violence raised the issue of Moving the query further along, individuals can insuring Volunteer safety, especially in the universities. provide the best in-depth analysis of what life in Tur- Groups 15, 16, and 17 witnessed a Turkey wrestling for key did or did not do for them. It is in this vein that its soul. The inevitable happened, and by Peace Corps/ it was considered worthwhile to gather as a total Peace

Peace Corps Turkey—A Retrospective / 9

34 Corps program of 17 groups and bring our collective ethic, and service. Had Volunteers pondered long that consciousness to bear. It is hoped that the brief time al- type of observation, it would have made the task immea- lotted to our small seminars will prove useful in sharing surably more difficult. That final round of interviews, and sharpening the perspective that the years since Tur- however, also made it unequivocally clear that Turkey's key have tempered. Volunteers and the staff that supported them left a mark When Turkey 1 trained, they were told by instructors on Anatolia. Who knows, perhaps in 2000 years we can and staff that their upcoming life would be in a fishbowl. officially join that great historical list of those who have It was not until 1970 during the interviews that were a traversed the plains and made it the magnificent living part of the final review that we confirmed for sure just museum it is! how big a fishbowl it had been. The memurs and müdürs could recite in detail, especially those who had super- Dave served as Acting Director from July 1962 – Octo- vised different PCVs over a number of years, how they ber 1963 and January 1966 – October 1967. remembered the smallest aspects of personality, work

Peggy (Gall) Hanson, (T-1) Our young director and his able assistant, Ali Yonceova, found an apartment office in Kızılay from which to supervise and support the volunteers. It was a tough job: decide on living allowances, handle whines and complaints, and insist on sitting toilets! Between the two of them, Dr. Chris Hansen, and a growing group of Volunteer Leaders, they put kilometer after kilometer on the Peace Corps jeeps, making a welcome change for the Volunteers, who had begun to forget they were Americans.

10 / Arkadaşlar—Friends of Turkey

35 Dennis P Williams Clement Ranallo Lydia J Williamson Thomas E Reinhard Edward F Willman Ann M Ringland (09/08) Kay S Zakariasen Ervin E & Lois J Rockhill Darrell O Zimmerman Leslie Alvis Sack Paul J Zollar Allen Neill Schauffler Robert L & Sylva Telford Staab Group 9 Sheldon W Starman (09/08) Gary Stebbins Lora Ann Hagglund Anderson Janet C Pomerenke Stock Janet R Bachmann William L Surbaugh Dennis P Williams ClementBarbara Ranallo Bailey Chester B Thomas Lydia J Williamson ThomasJames L E& ReinhardWing Susan L Barfoot Judy McNeil Thorne Edward F Willman AnnMichael M Ringland L Basile (09/08) (09/Staff) Helen Mally Trapp Kay S Zakariasen ErvinJack EE &Boatright Lois J Rockhill Thomas A Turner Darrell O Zimmerman LeslieAnne Alvis Marie Sack Boylon Richard B Wandschneider (09/Staff) Paul J Zollar AllenAshley Neill S Campbell,Schauffler Jr. (08/09) Carol Weber RobertRobert L F& Comeau Sylva Telford (08/09) Staab Joan Strickler Weeks Group 9 SheldonGail (Joseph) W Starman Daubenspeck (09/08) Eileen E Crane White Peggy (Gall) Hanson, (T-1) GaryAnthony Stebbins J DeSimone (08/09) Russell Whitesel (09/08) Lora Ann Hagglund Anderson JanetChester C Pomerenke D Dowell Stock (08/09) James F Wolf End of Innocence were given a chance at USIA to see what had been tak- Janet R Bachmann WilliamFrank DrumhellerL Surbaugh (08/09) Marjorie L Wood (08/09) ing place on television in the United States. This picture Barbara Bailey ChesterMarvin B G Thomas Eash George E & Diana E Pearce Wright We, Turkey 1s, went out as naive idealists, ready for portrays the shock and horror of that time as we watched James L & Wing Susan L Barfoot JudyPatrick McNeil H Fabian Thorne (08/09) adventure but very attuned to President Kennedy’s goals the funeral procession, Jackie’s solemn salute, and the Michael L Basile (09/Staff) HelenClarence Mally R Trapp& Molly W Ehrlinger Falk for the Peace Corps. Yes, we assumed hard work. And children holding their mother’s hand. Jack E Boatright ThomasPatrick JA FitchTurner we wanted to help. From our arrival in September 1962 Nothing was ever the same after that. A month later, Anne Marie Boylon RichardEphraim B WandschneiderA Frankel, Jr. (09/Staff) till that day in November, 1963, we were greeted with as the Turkish government got a letter signed by President Ashley S Campbell, Jr. (08/09) CarolCarol Weber Gaye Franz much naive idealism for America as we had for our jobs. JohnsonSpring saying Skiing they could not use US-provided planes Robert F Comeau (08/09) JoanJean Strickler C Stern Weeks Fromberg (08/09) Everyone loved us, just because we were American. and weaponry to defend Turks in Cyprus. “But we are Gail (Joseph) Daubenspeck EileenGuy GattisE Crane White On November 22, 1963, we and the world learned your brothers!!”Early one springwas the morning, angry and my anguished sitemate, Allencry, even [Neill Anthony J DeSimone (08/09) RussellAnn C Whitesel Haas (09/08) an ugly lesson: Weapons can destroy idealism, or at least at Schauffler,our remote sites. T-9] “Weand Iwent had tobeen Korea visiting with some you! neighborsHow Chester D Dowell (08/09) JamesTerry F L Wolf & Martha Liesner Hedrick set it back. We and our whole system faced forces that couldwho you lived write maybe such a ahalf letter?” mile uphill and south from our Frank Drumheller (08/09) MarjorieJoseph CL HempflingWood (08/09) wanted to tear down the dreams. Turkey I had a meet- house.I suppose The we climb are still along learning the village lessons path like had this. been steep, Marvin G Eash GeorgeKenneth E & L DianaHill E Pearce Wright ing in Ankara after the time of the assassination and but the early morning air— was Peggy cool, (Gall) and Hanson,there was (T-1)a heavy Patrick H Fabian (08/09) Stuart H Huntington dew on the grassy fields. When we left to return home, Clarence R & Molly W Ehrlinger Falk Gary Jameson a number of the younger village boys were with us. Patrick J Fitch David F Jamieson (08/09) “Watch this,” one of them said, as he vaulted over a low Ephraim A Frankel, Jr. Elaina L Jamieson (08/09) fence onto the short grass at the top of a precipitously Carol Gaye Franz Lawrence K Joseph Spring Skiing sloped pasture. His rubber shoes slid on the grass. He Jean C Stern Fromberg (08/09) Jean M Saarela Kawar Guy Gattis raised his arms for balance, and he was off down the hill PaulEarly E Kinsleyone spring morning, my sitemate, Allen [Neill Ann C Haas like a skier without skis. The other kids followed. The Schauffler,Donald P LeBeau T-9] and (09/08) I had been visiting some neighbors Terry L & Martha Liesner Hedrick descent was barely controlled, and the journey was not whoDaniel lived B maybe Leahy a half mile uphill and south from our Joseph C Hempfling smooth. When one of them would hit a bump, he would house.David The A Mechtenberg climb along the village path had been steep, Kenneth L Hill break into a trot to catch his balance, then glide again. butWilliam the early Mercer, morning Jr. air was cool, and there was a heavy Stuart H Huntington Of course, we had to try it. It was harder than it looked. dewGeraldine on the grassyE Swanberg fields. Newcomb When we left to return home, Gary Jameson In our case, the descent was entirely uncontrolled. The a Michael number J ofNyhan the younger village boys were with us. David F Jamieson (08/09) hill was so steep that, short of just sitting (or falling) “WatchHugh Wthis,” O’Neill one of them said, as he vaulted over a low Elaina L Jamieson (08/09) down, there was simply no way to stop. We all ended fenceDennis onto & the Marcia short Pearson grass at the top of a precipitously Lawrence K Joseph up at the bottom of the field in a pile of small (and two slopedSandy pasture. Pfunder His rubber shoes slid on the grass. He Jean M Saarela Kawar large) bodies. raisedAlphey his Larms Poulin for (08/09)balance, and he was off down the hill Paul E Kinsley Sandy Pfunder, (T-9) like a skier without skis. The other kids followed. The Donald P LeBeau (09/08) Peace Corps Turkey—A Retrospective / 11 descent was barely controlled, and the journey was not Daniel B Leahy Groups / 25 smooth. When one of them would hit a bump, he would David A Mechtenberg 36 break into a trot to catch his balance, then glide again. William Mercer, Jr. Of course, we had to try it. It was harder than it looked. Geraldine E Swanberg Newcomb In our case, the descent was entirely uncontrolled. The Michael J Nyhan hill was so steep that, short of just sitting (or falling) Hugh W O’Neill down, there was simply no way to stop. We all ended Dennis & Marcia Pearson up at the bottom of the field in a pile of small (and two Sandy Pfunder large) bodies. Alphey L Poulin (08/09) Sandy Pfunder, (T-9)

Groups / 25