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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Late Cenozoic-Recent Tectonics of the Southwestern Margin of the Tibetan Plateau, Ladakh, Northwest India
Late Cenozoic-recent tectonics of the southwestern margin of the Tibetan Plateau, Ladakh, northwest India by Wendy Bohon A Dissertation Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Approved April 2014 by the Graduate Supervisory Committee: Kip Hodges Ramon Arrowsmith Arjun Heimsath Kelin Whipple Stephen Reynolds ARIZONA STATE UNIVERSITY May 2014 DEDICATION This work is dedicated to my grandmother, Eunice Waterfield Boyette, who was a model of perseverance and dedication, and to my parents, Dean and Linda Bohon, who always believed I could do anything. i ACKNOWLEDGMENTS First, I need to give a sincere and hearty thank you to my advisors, Ramon Arrowsmith and Kip Hodges. You have both been incredible sources of inspiration and support, and I am grateful for your guidance during this processes. I would also like to thank my committee, Kelin Whipple, Arjun Heimsath, and Steve Reynolds for providing mentorship and support for the last several (or more!) years. I must also give a special acknowledgement to Matthijs van Soest and Jo-Anne Wartho for their patience and mentorship in the laboratory. I would also like to thank Thijs for many informative and helpful discussions about my data. I must also thank the JMARS team, especially Chris Edwards and Scott Dickenshied, for their help with all aspects of the ASTER remote sensing. My advisors and other mentors have been amazing, but my fellow graduate students also deserve special recognition for the integral part they have played in my educational journey. Many thanks to all of the students in the Hodges and Arrowsmith research groups- and to the larger surfaces processes crew- especially the folks in Room 603. -
Everest 1962 I Maurice Isserman
WIRED MAD, ILL-EQUIPPED AND ADMIRABLE: EVEREST 1962 I MAURICE ISSERMAN ust over a half century Jago, on May 8, 1962, four climbers stood atop a Himalayan icefall, watching the last of their Sherpa porters vanish amid the bright, thin air. For the next month, Woodrow Wilson Sayre, Norman Hansen, Roger Hart and Hans-Peter Duttle would be on their own. 88 T!" #$%%$&'() *$+('(), they’d set o, from a high camp to attempt the -rst ascent of Gyachung Kang, a mountain on the Nepalese- Tibetan border—or so Sayre had told the Nep- alese o.cials back in Kathmandu who granted him the permit. Had his American-Swiss party reached the summit of their announced objec- tive, it would have been an impressive coup, considering that none of them had climbed in the Himalaya before, and only two had ever reached an elevation of more than 20,000 feet. At 26,089 feet (7952m), Gyachung Kang fell just below the arbitrary 8000-meter altitude distinguishing other peaks as the pinnacle of mountaineering ambitions. But Gyachung Kang wouldn’t be climbed [Facing Page] Map of the 1962 team’s approach to Mt. Everest (8848m). Jeremy Collins l [This Page] Woodrow “Woody” Wilson until 1964. /e 1962 expedition had another Sayre on the Nup La. “We made three basic decisions in planning for Everest. We were going without permission, we were objective in mind, located about -fteen miles going without Sherpas, and we were going without oxygen,” Sayre wrote in Four Against Everest. Hans-Peter Duttle collection farther east as the gorak (the Himalayan crow) 0ies. -
Large-Scale Geometry, Offset and Kinematic Evolution of The
Available online at www.sciencedirect.com R Earth and Planetary Science Letters 219 (2004) 255^269 www.elsevier.com/locate/epsl Large-scale geometry, o¡set and kinematic evolution of the Karakorum fault, Tibet Robin Lacassin a;Ã, Franck Valli a, Nicolas Arnaud b, P. Herve¤ Leloup c, Jean Louis Paquette d, Li Haibing a;e, Paul Tapponnier a, Marie-Luce Chevalier a, Stephane Guillot c, Gweltaz Maheo c, Xu Zhiqin e a Laboratoire de Tectonique, Me¤canique de la Lithosphe're, UMR 7578 CNRS, Institut de Physique du Globe de Paris, 75252 Paris CX05, France b Laboratoire de Dynamique de la Lithosphe're, UMR 5573 CNRS, ISTEEM - USTL, Place Euge'ne Bataillon, 34095 Montpellier CX5, France c Laboratoire de Dynamique de la Lithosphe're, UMR 5570 CNRS, UCB Lyon et ENS Lyon, 2 rue Dubois, 69622 Villeurbanne, France d Laboratoire Magmas et Volcans, UMR 6524 CNRS, Universite¤ Blaise Pascal, Rue Kessler, 63038 Clermont Ferrand CX, France e Institute of Geology, Chinese Academy of Geological Sciences, 26 Baiwanzhuang Road, Beijing 100037, PR China Received 16 September 2003; received in revised form 18 December 2003; accepted 18 December 2003 Abstract The total offset, lifespan and slip rate of the Karakorum fault zone (KFZ) (western Tibet) are debated. Along the southern fault half, ongoing oblique slip has exhumed dextrally sheared gneisses intruded by synkinematic leucogranites, whose age (V23 Ma, U/Pb on zircon) indicates that right-lateral motion was already in progress in the late Oligocene. Ar/Ar K-feldspar thermochronology confirms that rapid cooling started around 12 Ma, likely at the onset of the present dextral normal slip regime. -
Oblique Convergence, Arc-Parallel Extension, and the Role of Strike-Slip Faulting in the High Himalaya
Oblique convergence, arc-parallel extension, and the role of strike-slip faulting in the High Himalaya Richard H. Styron1,*, Michael H. Taylor1, and Michael A. Murphy2 1Department of Geology, University of Kansas, 1475 Jayhawk Boulevard, Lawrence, Kansas 66045, USA 2Department of Earth and Atmospheric Sciences, University of Houston, Houston, Texas 77204-5007, USA ABSTRACT to explain the observations of the geometry 2004); oroclinal bending (Li and Yin, 2008); and active tectonics of the Indo-Asian collision outward radial expansion of the Tibetan Pla- Arc-parallel extension is an important zone or subsets of it, especially in Tibet and the teau (Molnar and Lyon-Caen, 1989; Copley component of the active deformation of the Himalaya. These include, but are not limited to, and McKenzie, 2007; Murphy et al., 2009); Himalaya. This extension is accommodated models of rapid uplift of the Tibetan Plateau due and variably oblique Indo-Himalayan conver- via arc-perpendicular normal faults linked to to detachment and sinking of the lithospheric gence (McCaffrey and Nábelek, 1998; Seeber arc-parallel strike-slip faults. Analysis of ~130 mantle (e.g., Molnar et al., 1993); northeast and Pêcher, 1998). These models are described global positioning system geodetic velocities stepwise uplift of Tibet (Tapponnier et al., in more detail in the following, and specifi c, indicates >3 cm yr–1 of arc-parallel extension 2001); gravitationally driven collapse of the pla- testable predictions of each are presented. of the Himalaya. Several models have sought -
An Example from the Himalaya
Three-dimensional strain accumulation and partitioning in an arcuate orogenic wedge: An example from the Himalaya Suoya Fan†, and Michael A. Murphy Department of Earth and Atmospheric Sciences, University of Houston, Houston, Texas 77204, USA ABSTRACT high-elevation, low-relief surface in the 1939; Gansser, 1964; Le Fort, 1975; Burg and Mugu-Dolpa region of west Nepal. We pro- Chen, 1984; Pêcher, 1989). This suggests along- In this study, we use published geologic pose that these results can be explained by strike continuity in the structural architecture, maps and cross-sections to construct a three- oblique convergence along a megathrust with tectonostratigraphy, and possible evolution. dimensional geologic model of major shear an along-strike and down-dip heterogeneous However, several studies have since observed zones that make up the Himalayan orogenic coupling pattern infuenced by frontal and and better understand that signifcant differences wedge. The model incorporates microseis- oblique ramps along the megathrust. exist (e.g., Paudel and Arita, 2002; Thiede et al., micity, megathrust coupling, and various de- 2006; Yin, 2006; Murphy, 2007; Hintersberger rivatives of the topography to address several INTRODUCTION et al., 2010; Webb et al., 2011; Carosi et al., questions regarding observed crustal strain 2013). In the western and central Himalaya, patterns and how they are expressed in the Studies on the growth of orogenic wedges geologic features indicative of different along- landscape. These questions include: (1) How usually focus on processes normal to the strike strike structural styles and histories comprise does vertical thickening vary along strike of of the orogen by assuming plane strain defor- thrust duplexes, gneiss domes, and intermontane the orogen? (2) What is the role of oblique mation. -
Paleocene Latitude of the Kohistan–Ladakh Arc Indicates Multistage India–Eurasia Collision
Paleocene latitude of the Kohistan–Ladakh arc indicates multistage India–Eurasia collision Craig R. Martina,1, Oliver Jagoutza, Rajeev Upadhyayb, Leigh H. Roydena, Michael P. Eddyc, Elizabeth Baileyd, Claire I. O. Nicholsa, and Benjamin P. Weissa aDepartment of Earth, Atmospheric and Planetary Sciences, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139; bDepartment of Geology, Kumaun University, 263 002 Nainital, India; cDepartment of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences, Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN 47907; and dDepartment of Astronomy and Astrophysics, University of California, Santa Cruz, CA 95064 Edited by B. Clark Burchfiel, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA, and approved October 5, 2020 (received for review May 6, 2020) We report paleomagnetic data showing that an intraoceanic Trans- TTSZ in the time period between 50 and 80 Ma, which is required Tethyan subduction zone existed south of the Eurasian continent to test the two collision hypotheses. In the western Himalaya, and north of the Indian subcontinent until at least Paleocene time. India and Eurasia are separated by the Bela, Khost, and Mus- This system was active between 66 and 62 Ma at a paleolatitude of limbagh ophiolites and the 60,000 km2 intraoceanic Kohistan 8.1 ± 5.6 °N, placing it 600–2,300 km south of the contemporaneous Ladakh arc (19, 20) (Fig. 1). These were obducted onto India in Eurasian margin. The first ophiolite obductions onto the northern the Late Cretaceous to Early Paleocene (19), prior to the closure Indian margin also occurred at this time, demonstrating that colli- of the Eocene to Oligocene Katawaz sedimentary basin (20) sion was a multistage process involving at least two subduction (Fig. -
Syncollisional Extension Along the India–Asia Suture Zone, South-Central Tibet: Implications for Crustal Deformation of Tibet
ARTICLE IN PRESS EPSL-10123; No of Pages 11 Earth and Planetary Science Letters xxx (2010) xxx–xxx Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Earth and Planetary Science Letters journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/epsl Syncollisional extension along the India–Asia suture zone, south-central Tibet: Implications for crustal deformation of Tibet M.A. Murphy a,⁎, V. Sanchez a, M.H. Taylor b a University of Houston, 312 Science and Research Bldg. 1, Houston, TX 772004-5007, United States b Department of Geology, University of Kansas, Lawrence, KS 66045, United States article info abstract Article history: Crustal deformation models of the Tibetan plateau are assessed by investigating the nature of Neogene Received 15 October 2009 deformation along the India–Asia suture zone through geologic mapping in south-central Tibet (84°30′E). Received in revised form 18 November 2009 Our mapping shows that the suture zone is dominated by a system of 3 to 4 ENE-striking, south-dipping Accepted 20 November 2009 thrust faults, rather than strike-slip faults as predicted by models calling upon eastward extrusion of the Available online xxxx Tibetan plateau. Faults along the suture zone are not active, as they are cut by a system of NNW-striking Editor: T.M. Harrison oblique slip normal faults, referred to herein as the Lopukangri fault system. Fault-slip data from the Lopukangri fault system shows that the mean slip direction of its hanging wall is N36W. We estimate the net Keywords: slip on the Lopukangri fault by restoring components of the thrust system. We estimate that the fault has Himalaya accommodated ∼7 km of right-slip and ∼8 km of normal dip-slip, yielding a net slip of ∼10.5 km, and 6 km Tibet of horizontal east–west extension. -
Topographic and Tectonic Discontinuities in Western Nepal
Lithosphere, published online on 17 June 2015 as doi:10.1130/L444.1 Along-strike changes in Himalayan thrust geometry: Topographic and tectonic discontinuities in western Nepal Jonathan E. Harvey1,*, Douglas W. Burbank1, and Bodo Bookhagen2 1DEPARTMENT OF EARTH SCIENCE, UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA–SANTA BARBARA, SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA 93106, USA 2INSTITUTE OF EARTH AND ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE, UNIVERSITY OF POTSDAM, 14476 POTSDAM-GOLM, GERMANY ABSTRACT Geodetic and seismologic studies support a tectonic model for the central Himalaya wherein ~2 cm/yr of Indo-Asian convergence is accom- modated along the primary décollement under the range, the Main Himalayan thrust. A steeper midcrustal ramp in the Main Himalayan thrust is commonly invoked as driving rapid rock uplift along a range-parallel band in the Greater Himalaya. This tectonic model, developed primarily from studies in central Nepal, is commonly assumed to project along strike with little lateral variation in Main Himalayan thrust geometry or associated rock uplift patterns. Here, we synthesize multiple lines of evidence for a major discontinuity in the Main Himalayan thrust in western Nepal. Analysis of topography and seismicity indicates that west of ~82.5°E, the single band of steep topography and seismicity along the Main Himalayan thrust ramp in central Nepal bifurcates around a high-elevation, low-relief landscape, resulting in a two-step topographic front along an ~150 km segment of the central Himalaya. Although multiple models could explain this bifurcation, the full suite of data appears to be most consistent with a northward bend to the Main Himalayan thrust ramp and activation of a young duplex horse to the south. -
OVERVIEW Tectonics of the Himalaya and Southern Tibet from Two Perspectives
OVERVIEW Tectonics of the Himalaya and southern Tibet from two perspectives K. V. Hodges Department of Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, Massachusetts 02139 ABSTRACT café or on the banks of a quiet pond, Impressionist art preserves an instan- taneous sensation. Claude Monet, perhaps the greatest of the Impressionists, The Himalaya and Tibet provide an unparalleled opportunity to ex- tried to go further by expressing the passage of time in his series paintings, amine the complex ways in which continents respond to collisional like those of the façade of the Rouen Cathedral. If Impressionism is a form orogenesis. This paper is an attempt to synthesize the known geology of of historical documentation, we might think of one of the great traditions of this orogenic system, with special attention paid to the tectonic evolu- tectonics research—the description of orogeny as a temporal progression of tion of the Himalaya and southernmost Tibet since India-Eurasia colli- deformational episodes—as an essentially Impressionist enterprise. Our sion at ca. 50 Ma. Two alternative perspectives are developed. The first ability to use the developmental sequence of major structures in one setting is largely historical. It includes brief (and necessarily subjective) re- to predict the sequence in others, as is the case for foreland fold-and-thrust views of the tectonic stratigraphy, the structural geology, and meta- belts worldwide (Dahlstrom, 1970), is ample testimony to the value of the morphic geology of the Himalaya. The second focuses on the processes Impressionist perspective. that dictate the behavior of the orogenic system today. -
Polyphase Deformation, Dynamic Metamorphism, and Metasomatism of Mount Everest’S Summit Limestone, East Central Himalaya, Nepal/Tibet
Polyphase deformation, dynamic metamorphism, and metasomatism of Mount Everest’s summit limestone, east central Himalaya, Nepal/Tibet Travis L. Corthouts, David R. Lageson, and Colin A. Shaw EARTH SCIENCE DEPARTMENT, MONTANA STATE UNIVERSITY, BOZEMAN, MONTANA 59715, USA ABSTRACT New samples collected from a transect across the summit limestone of Mount Everest (Qomolangma Formation) show that multiple distinct deformational events are discretely partitioned across this formation. Samples from the highest exposures of the Qomolangma Formation (Everest summit) preserve a well-developed mylonitic foliation and microstructures consistent with deformation temperatures of ≥250 °C. Thermochronologic and microstructural results indicate these fabrics were ingrained during initial contractile phases of Himalayan oro- genesis, when crustal thickening was accommodated by folding and thrusting of the Tethyan Sedimentary Sequence. In contrast, samples from near the base of the Qomolangma Formation (South Summit) preserve extensional shear deformation, indicate metasomatism at temperatures of ~500 °C, and contain a synkinematic secondary mineral assemblage of muscovite + chlorite + biotite + tourmaline + rutile. Shear fabrics preserved in South Summit samples are associated with activity on the Qomolangma detachment, while the crystallization of secondary phases was the result of reactions between the limestone protolith and a volatile, boron-rich fluid that infiltrated the base of the Qomolangma Formation, resulting in metasomatism. The 40Ar/39Ar dating of synkinematic muscovite indicates the secondary assemblage crystallized at ca. 28 Ma and that shear fabrics were ingrained at ≥18 Ma. This paper presents the first evidence that Everest’s summit lime- stone records multiple phases of deformation associated with discrete stages in Himalayan orogenesis, and that the structurally highest strand of the South Tibetan detachment on Everest was initially active as a distributed shear zone before it manifested as a discrete brittle detachment at the base of the Qomolangma Formation. -
Hi on Life Aventures Sida 1 Khumbu Ice Clinic Lobuche Peak Expedition
Khumbu Ice Clinic Lobuche Peak Expedition Lodge/Camping No. of days: 24 Graded: Highly challenging Nepal Nepal, a tiny country, nestled in the Himalayas between India and China, is one of the most diverse and fascinating countries in the world. Covering an area of only 147,181 sq. km, Nepal encompasses the world’s highest mountains and the deepest valleys as well as low elevation rain forest. Although the width of the country is only 200Km North to South, Nepal has the highest altitude variation of any country on earth, from 20m above sea level to 8848m above sea level (Top of Everest). The country is divided in to 3 elevation Zones viz. the low Terrain, the midhill region and the high Himalayas, which contains 1/3 of the Himalayan range with 9 of the world’s highest mountains. This wide diversity of landform gives Nepal an incredible wealth of flora and fauna. Nepal is not only famous for its landscape but also renowned for the friendliness of its people. The people of Nepal are as variable and intriguing as the country’s geography. There are more than 37 ethnic groups with their own language and culture. Hinduism is the official religion, which the majority of the people practice. Many people throughout the country are Buddhist and the two religions have co-existed in harmony over the ages. A small number of people practice Christianity and Islam. Nepal at a glance: Longitude: 26'12' and 30'27' No Latitude: 80 degree 4' and 88 degree 12' East Population: 24 million Capitol: Kathmandu Area: 147,181 sq.