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Complete Dissertation VU Research Portal Theology in an Age of Fashion Covolo, R.S. 2017 document version Publisher's PDF, also known as Version of record Link to publication in VU Research Portal citation for published version (APA) Covolo, R. S. (2017). Theology in an Age of Fashion: Reforming the Engagement. General rights Copyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in the public portal are retained by the authors and/or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. • Users may download and print one copy of any publication from the public portal for the purpose of private study or research. • You may not further distribute the material or use it for any profit-making activity or commercial gain • You may freely distribute the URL identifying the publication in the public portal ? Take down policy If you believe that this document breaches copyright please contact us providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim. E-mail address: [email protected] Download date: 30. Sep. 2021 VRIJE UNIVERSITEIT Theology in an Age of Fashion: Reforming the Engagement ACADEMISCH PROEFSCHRIFT ter verkrijging van de graad Doctor aan de Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam en Fuller Theological Seminary, op gezag van de rectores magnifici prof.dr. V. Subramaniam en prof.dr. M. Labberton, in het openbaar te verdedigen ten overstaan van de promotiecommissie van de Faculteit der Godgeleerdheid op woensdag 15 november 2017 om 15.45 uur in de aula van de universiteit, De Boelelaan 1105 door Robert Stephen Covolo geboren te Mountain View, California, Verenigde Staten promotoren: prof.dr. C. van der Kooi prof.dr. W. Dyrness copromotor: prof.dr. G. Harinck To Chloe pupillam oculi mei “la mode l’identité de l’époque” — Yves Michaud TABLE OF CONTENTS SUMMARY: English vii SUMMARY: Dutch xi ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS xvi INTRODUCTION: What Does Paris Have To Do With Jerusalem? 1 PART I: THEOLOGY IN AN AGE OF FASHION 8 CHAPTER 1: Suspending Disbelief: 9 Theology and Fashion’s New Theoretical Discourse Fashion’s Emerging Discipline 9 What is Fashion? 12 Multiple Perspectives 16 Fashion and Art 16 Fashion and Economics 18 Fashion and Communication 22 Fashion and the Body 26 Fashion and Identity 29 A Self-Imposed Absence? 34 CHAPTER 2: (Ad) Dressing The Catholic Faith: 37 Tertullian, Augustine and Aquinas Roman Dress and the Patristic Period 38 Tertullian: Faithful Dress in a Godless Culture 41 Augustine: (Re) Dressing The City of God 51 Medieval Period and Liturgical Vestments 56 Aquinas: Virtuous Dress and Distributive Justice 58 Erik Peterson’s Fraught Aggiornamento 67 A Promising Trajectory 71 CHAPTER 3: Reforming Fashion: 73 Calvin, Kuyper and Barth The Emergence of Fashion 73 Dress in the Reformation: Lutherans and Anabaptists 75 John Calvin, Sumptuous Dress and Early Modern Fashion 80 The Fashion Revolution and Nineteenth Century Europe 93 Abraham Kuyper, French Fashion and Secularization 95 Fashion in the Twentieth Century 104 Karl Barth, “Lordless Powers” and Fashion’s Zeitgeist 106 Reforming Fashion’s Dispensations 115 v PART II: REFORMING THE ENGAGEMENT 118 CHAPTER 4: Theo-Politics & Fashion: 119 Reforming Fashion’s Public Sphere A Suitable Public Sphere 119 Stripping the Public Sphere 121 Fashioning the Erotics of a Post-Christian Public Sphere 128 Redefining Secularism in the Space of Fashion and the Public Sphere 135 Fashioning A Reformed Public Sphere 142 Kuyper Redux 142 Tayloring The Triad 150 A Kuyperian Pushback 158 CHAPTER 5: Theo-Aesthetics & Fashion: 163 Reforming the Art of Fashion Fashion and Art: Thief or Victim? 165 (De)Fashioning Aesthetics 167 Augustine and the Aesthetics of B/beauty 174 Aquinas and Beauty 178 Beauty’s Pageantry: Lewis and Dante 181 Subverting Mimesis: Baudelaire’s Beautiful Artifice 183 Rehabilitating A “Natural Beauty” 185 Updating Beauty: Kuyper & Bavinck 191 Fashion and Reformational Aesthetics: Rookmaaker and Seerveld 198 Re-Fashioning Neo-Calvinism: Wolterstorff’s Art Rethought 204 CHAPTER 6: Theo-Poetics & Fashion: 213 Reforming the Drama of Everyday Fashion Plato’s Atlantis and the Drama of High Fashion 213 Life-On-The-Cusp: Fashion and Time 216 The Stories We Wear: Fashion and Narrative 219 In Costume: Fashion and Performance 222 The Temporal Weight of Immanence 226 Eternal Novelty & Confessions 11 228 Dandies in Distensio 234 Paul Ricoeur and the Narration of Life 237 Fashioning Narrative Theology 246 “Nietzschean” Performances? 251 At Play in the Theater of God 257 The Hope of Everyday Dress 262 CONCLUSION: The Promise of New Horizons 265 BIBLIOGRAPHY 267 VITA 304 vi SUMMARY (English) This study pioneers the intersection of theology and the emerging discipline of fashion theory. Rejecting accounts that characterize the two disciplines as estranged, the study argues theology and fashion theory have reason to consider the other of consequence. This thesis is carried out in three movements. First, by way of assessing the emerging field of fashion theory (Chapter 1). Next, by reexamining and reframing theology’s historic relationship to discussions on dress and fashion (Chapters 2 & 3). Finally, by providing three examples of constructive engagement between the two disciplines (Chapters 4, 5 & 6). The first chapter takes up the central issue fashion theory seeks to address: What kind of thing is fashion? Where does it come from? By what logic does it operate? Having offered a provisional definition of fashion built on two of its salient features—fashion’s relationship to change and fashion’s relationship to Western modernity—the chapter proceeds to unpack the reigning “multiple perspectives” approach driving the field. In doing so, the discussion sketches five key intersections fashion theory shares with Christian theology: art, economics, communication, the body, and identity. Given the considerable intellectual real estate the two disciplines mutually inhabit, the chapter concludes by asking if theology’s absence from the discussion is because theologians have neglected the subject. To answer this question, the second and third chapters retrace theology’s historic relationship to (fashionable) dress as demonstrated in some of the most important thinkers in the Christian tradition. The first of these retrieval chapters (Chapter 2) takes up the Catholic tradition, a tradition which forged its understandings on dress well before the onset of (modern) fashion. In following the trajectory from Tertullian’s antagonism toward the fledgling fashions of the Roman vii Empire, to Augustine’s conflicted concessions regarding the inescapable role of the City of Man in the City of God, to Aquinas’s Aristotelian inspired synthesis, the chapter reveals an increasingly nuanced understanding of the way God takes interest in broader culture. Even so, (as Catholic theologian Erik Peterson’s attempt to reclaim a theology of dress exemplifies) the tradition’s implicit hierarchies, problematic views of nature/grace, ecclesiocentric factions, and fixation on virtue, leave her inadequately equipped to answer fashion’s democratizing impulse, this-world focus, poetics of daily life, and increasingly ubiquitous presence. The Reformed tradition’s approach to fashion is taken up in the next chapter (Chapter 3). The Reformation brought with it not only a new approach to (visual) culture, but also a new approach to fashionable dress. Among sixteenth century Protestant groups offering proposals for reforming fashion, John Calvin’s call for social responsibility and a simplicity of dress across class offered an alternative to Martin Luther’s tacit endorsement of fashion’s hierarchies and Menno Simons’ separatist anti-fashion rigorism. This same impulse to rethink fashion is further explored in Dutch theologian Abraham Kuyper’s attempt to forge a distinctly (Dutch) Reformed fashion, and Swiss theologian Karl Barth’s desire to identify fashion’s creaturely status. Having surveyed these respective approaches, one recognizes that behind John Calvin’s cross-pressured approach to sumptuary legislation, Abraham Kuyper’s concern over the relationship of French fashion to secularization, and Karl Barth’s depiction of modern fashion as in league with “lordless powers,” resides a desire to move beyond the language of personal virtue/vice to address fashion as a social and political force. What’s more, in so doing, these Reformed theologians not only expanded God’s investment in everyday life, but actually pre-figure contemporary discussions in fashion theory. viii Having addressed fashion theory (Chapter 1), theology’s historic relationship to pre- fashion dress (Chapter 2), and having evinced that “theological heavyweights” in the Reformed tradition took fashion quite serious within their respective dispensations in fashion history (Chapter 3), the discussion turns to the third movement of the dissertation: modeling a contemporary Reformed engagement with fashion theory. This is carried out in three constructive chapters that offer a Reformed account of the political, aesthetic and poetic intersections between theology and fashion theory. The first of these constructive chapters (Chapter 4) surveys three different understandings of the relationship between faith, fashion and the public sphere: Habermas’s criteria of a “reasonable” public sphere free from fashion and faith; Lipovetsky’s fashioned erotics “opening” the public sphere at the expense of faith; and Charles Taylor’s reframing of faith in
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