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Possibility of Application of Cradle to Cradle C2C Theory for the Textile Context of Santa Catarina

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Possibility of Application of Cradle to Cradle C2C Theory for the Textile Context of Santa Catarina Modern Environmental Science and Engineering (ISSN 2333-2581) April 2019, Volume 5, No. 4, pp. 313-319 Doi: 10.15341/mese(2333-2581)/04.05.2019/007 Academic Star Publishing Company, 2019 www.academicstar.us Case Study: Possibility of Application of Cradle to Cradle C2C Theory for the Textile Context of Santa Catarina Renata Vavolizza, and Liliane Iten Chaves Universidade Federal do Paraná, Brazil Abstract: This research presents possibilities for insertion of sustainable practices in the textile production process, from a systemic and sustainable approach in design. It was investigated the possibility of proposing the main concept of the Cradle to Cradle theory — Eco-effectiveness — in the context of the textile or clothing industries in Santa Catarina. The survey of existing literatures built the theoretical foundation, with emphasis on the authors William McDonough and the chemist Michael Braungart. The research was set up as a Case Study. Data collection was done with semi-structured open-ended interviews, applied to six stakeholders of a medium-sized industry from northern Santa Catarina and using direct, spontaneous and systematic observation .The analysis strategy presents the results in a systematic way, in agreement with the research objectives. The aim is to disseminate information on sustainability practices applicable in the textile and clothing sector, which allow specific bases for the construction of new design projects Key words: textile industry, sustainability, sustainable textile design in order to understand its original value. In a Case 1. Introduction Study, it is understood that the information collected in The premise that it is possible to apply a sustainable the field is as important as the theoretical information. and systemic approach to design in the textile industry, Designer and architect William McDonough and guided this research. We sought a design theory to chemist Michael Braungart have created the Cradle to achieve sustainability from the design point of view, Cradle theory [1], which means “cradle to cradle”, considering the social and economic importance that where the first principle concerns WASTE = FOOD, the textile sector offers in the context of Santa Catarina. residue is equal to food. Cradle to Cradle is a The greatest emphasis is on field research and the sustainable and systemic approach to design that construction of an effective method for it, which would started with the IE Green Industry studies [2], and is in bring to the surface data and information that are line with sustainability seen from the Triple Bottom difficult to access in the academic arena. This is a Line, a concept formulated by the British John design perspective that can be proposed in a specific Elkington [3], who considers sustainability in the context, northern Santa Catarina. It is necessary to have aspect social, economic and environmental. an accurate understanding of the nature of this research, The name Cradle to Cradle makes a direct reference to the Cradle to Grave, the linear idea of birth and death, Corresponding author: Renata Vavolizza, Master in design which indicates a modern manufacturing model, and fashion creation specialist; research areas/interests: design typical of the design premises of the Industrial for sustainability, sustainable service design, sustainable fashion retail, social innovation. E-mail: Revolution (Fig. 1). [email protected]. 314 Case Study: Possibility of Application of Cradle to Cradle C2C Theory for the Textile Context of Santa Catarina of Eco-efficiency are: reduction, reuse; recycling; and regulation. McDonough and Braungart, as well as Niinimäki and Hassi [5], criticize Eco-efficiency precepts. With regard to Reduce, they argue that it does not stop the exhaustion and destruction, but slows down. On reuse, Fig. 1 Typical linear production of the Industrial they state that waste is transferred from place to place, Revolution. often leading to toxins and contaminants. About Cradle to Cradle [4] visualizes sustainability through regulation, they remember that they improve, but they a design concept that can subvert the prevailing logic. do not get to the root of the problem of finding out what They introduce the concept of Eco-effectiveness, caused the pollution. solution of the problem through a design prism, as The most severe criticism of all concerns recycling, opposed to the predominant thinking Eco-efficiency, as it is a process that reduces the quality of a material vision of the problem through production management over time, and which transform it into a hybrid that can or production engineering. increase contamination. To this type of recycling, The term Eco-efficiency was officially used by the which does not predict how it will happen is given the World Business Council for Sustainable Development name of Downcycled. In addition to this term, the through a report called the Changing Course, launched authors coined the concept of Upcycling, which means simultaneously with the ECO92 Summit and signed by just the opposite, distinguishing the materials and their 48 industrial sponsors. It was found that industries have properties individually. been able to reduce pollutant emissions, rationalize The systemic and sustainable design approach energy use and realize considerable financial savings. proposed by McDonough and Braungart intends to From this period, the eco-efficiency motto: the 03 Rs - design a product or system considering the whole: reduce, reuse and recycle became widely known. "What are its goals and their potential effects, both According to Fig. 2, through Eco-efficiency, the immediate and future, with respect to time and place? residue can be recycled and become feedstock again What is the complete system — cultural, commercial, (Fig. 2). ecological — of what is done and what is done? Over time, new companies adopted this strand and The authors clarify that Eco-effectiveness does not there were regulations in the form of audits, eliminate Eco-efficiency, but sees it as a means of certifications, among other practices that ensured the arriving at the concept of the project nature proposed difference of a “sustainable” company from a by both. The difficulties are many because almost all “non-sustainable” company. The main characteristics industrial processes have side effects, so they guide following the complexity and intelligence of nature’s activity, inspired by it to project some “positive side effects”. The beginning of the theory, considers the global planning that we are part of, as follows: • The two main elements are Sun and Earth, or energy and mass. The sun is the main element for generating energy. • There are two distinct metabolisms on the Fig. 2 Circular scheme proposed by ecoefficiency. planet: the biological metabolism or biosphere Case Study: Possibility of Application of Cradle to Cradle C2C Theory for 315 the Textile Context of Santa Catarina (cycles of nature) and the technical metabolism in the north of the state of Santa Catarina and using or technosphere (industry cycles). direct observation, applying spontaneous observation • The products may consist of biodegradable and systematic observation, elaborated in conjunction materials, which become food for the biological with protocol interview research, constructed through cycles; and by technical materials, which two concepts explained by Braumgart and remain in closed circuit technical cycles, Mcdonought: circulating valuable nutrients to the industry. • The concept of Eco-efficiency: represents a • The vitality of ecosystems depends on management approach to sustainability, well relationships, uses and exchanges of energy and studied in the traditional lines of research in the materials in a given place. area. • All sustainability is local, understanding of • The concept of Eco-effectiveness: represents a material and energy flows, customs and local sustainability approach derived from design, needs. where the design role is present in its • Respect for diversity in the project, which perspective. means not only taking into account how it is In an industrial production, there are three main done, but how it will be used and by whom. stages: pre-production (design and purchasing), production (manufacturing) and post-production 2. Material and Methods (marketing and distribution). As the research is about This research was delineated through a single case the point of view of the design stage and the reflex in study, according to Gil [6] “The single case studies the production, it will cover the first two stages, having refer to an individual, a group, an organization, a as interviewed: phenomenon, etc. They are the most traditional mode • Three contributors, who are responsible for of case study, although it is not the most frequent one projects, including a designer; today”. • Three contributors, who are responsible for the The choice for a single case was for the following management, including a production manager. reasons: The selection of the interviewees established as a • Exploratory case — coming from an criterion the choice of people considered key exploratory research. It is intended to obtain informants, typical people in the organization who had basic information to generate a more in-depth functions established in other industries of the sector. study. Moreira and Caleffe [8] call it an intentional sample, • Decisive case — seeks to confirm or contest a when the researcher selects people who will contribute theory [7]. to the research, offering
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