LIKE A area. Swa Vana runs multi-purpose centers with its surroundings, entry is via a tunnel guests to and from their suites afer dark). If ROLLING STONE in local villages that ensure the children are through a hillside, which leads to 13 suites Selati channels the feel of “yesterday” and the fed, clothed, given access to healthcare, and with curved walls of sand, stone, and raw modern Earth Lodge is “tomorrow,” then the supervised afer school daily. Visitors to Sabi woodwork. Each of Sabi Sabi’s four lodges remaining two lodges (25-suite Bush Lodge Sabi can see frst-hand the work being done by has a distinct personality, with their diferent and six-suite Little Bush Camp) are “today.” Swa Vana, and get a glimpse into local village designs ofering a diferent type of experience. Both are warmly decorated with antiques life, on a community tour ofered by each of the If it’s the vintage African safari aesthetic gathered from around Africa; Little Bush reserve’s four luxury lodges scattered around you are looking for, book recently refurbished ofers intimacy while Bush Lodge appeals to Sabi Sabi’s sprawling reserve. Over lunch the seven-suite Selati Camp, complete with four- families with its “EleFun” children’s center. previous day, project manager Pontso Natoi poster beds, Persian carpets, roll-lipped bath Each lodge serves sumptuous barbecue told me how Swa Vana began in 2003 with 30 tubs and 19th-century railway antiques. dinners in its boma, a traditional livestock children and now cares for 375 children across Selati Camp evenings are set up in the style enclosure under the glittering African sky, or international cuisine inside the lodge. Together, the four lodges form a National Geographic-approved Unique Lodges of the World, one of a small, select group of world- class hotels chosen for their elevated guest experiences and commitment to protecting surrounding habitats and cultures (crucial to this point, the reserve has its own anti-poaching unit). Spend some time here and you’ll quickly understand that those are the very pillars of the Sabi Sabi experience. And what makes a visit EARTH LODGE here so much more than just a safari trip. I traveled to Johannesburg directly from New York with South African Airways. Sabi Sabi’s airstrip is a one-hour direct fight from O.R. Tambo International Airport (Johannesburg). Alternatively you can fy SABI SABI: A JOURNEY via Skukuza Airport or Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport (Nelspruit), or opt for a scenic 5-hour chaufeured or self-drive from Johannesburg. Lodges can be booked via Ker & Downey in the US. Reservations: A SLINKS PAST THE FEET OF JACK THE TRACKER. I’M SITTING IN THE BACK OF THE SAFARI VEHICLE WITH MY HEART IN MY MOUTH. JACK’S AT THE VERY FRONT. HE’S RAISED ABOVE THE VEHICLE IN A three diferent local communities. Watching Jack at work, I quickly realized that CHAIR ATTACHED TO THE HOOD AND IS ABSOLUTELY STILL. NOT EVEN HIS GAZE SHIFTS. UNTIL, SLOWLY, a safari at Sabi Sabi was about even more than THE LION MOVES AWAY. I LET OUT A BREATH IN RELIEF. JACK REMAINS COMPOSED. observing its abundant wildlife. And speaking to Pontso, I also came to fnd that the entire ’m in Sabi Sabi Private on the edge of Greater to follow the tracks of an as-yet-unnamed (at least to the rest of us) experience goes deeper than a typical luxury in South Africa, on my second safari of animal. A rife rides along with us in the jeep under the watchful eye of getaway. Tough, of course, there’s that too. the day—two open vehicle safaris (morning and evening) and Kevan, but even on these solitary strolls—on which Jack occasionally, Afer the bush drive, I add the day’s sightings I one midday walking safari are included in rates. With no fence heart stoppingly, slips out of view—I’ve never seen Kevan touch it. to my checklist—I was just missing bufalo to between the reserve and Kruger, animals roam freely, ofen under Trackers like Jack are, the ofen unsung, lifeblood of a Sabi Sabi safari complete the “Big Five” of lion, , rhino, my group’s very noses, compelling Kevan, our ranger at the wheel, experience. Teir extraordinary intuition and knowledge of the bush bufalo and —and return to Earth to brake ofen. At each stop, the shutters of our cameras whir and comes from growing up in the Shangaan villages that surround the Lodge for dinner in the underground wine chatter, slicing through the stillness of the bush. But Jack, always, sits reserve. Around eighty percent of Sabi Sabi’s employees come from cellar—the reserve has won accolades for its quietly. I have come to envy him a little: this is his world, he doesn’t the reserve’s surrounding villages and fnd roles at the reserve not only careful wine selection, which includes many of a bygone era with glowing lanterns dotted (800) 423-4236; www.sabisabi.com need to grasp each animal sighting as if it might be his last. out in the bush, but in everything from bartending to managing the rarities and South African wines from small around the camp. Selati’s honeymoon suite kerdowney.com fysaa.com Jack grew up in the area and is out in the bush every day. He’s worked lodges—there are eight members of a single family working here. boutique wineries. In spite of the overlooks a watering hole ofen visited by -- at Sabi Sabi for 12 years and the animals have become part of his body. Tat’s just one illustration of how Sabi Sabi places community at the I’d spotted hovering around my private plunge and . When I visited, the Karen Gardiner is a freelance writer from In his head, yes, as proved by his abundance of knowledge, but also in heart of its operation. Another is its focus on community development. pool that morning, it struck me that the previous night’s guests told me they had Scotland based in the U.S. Her recent stories the subtle movements of his chin, or his fngers — two in the air to tell Sabi Sabi is closely involved with a local organization named Swa Vana contemporary design of Earth Lodge was far seen the Big Five without even leaving the have appeared in Condé Nast Traveler, Kevan to stop, one to point. He stufs his hands in his pockets when (which means “For the Children” in the local Tsonga language), which from that of a typical game lodge. Embedded lodge (as the reserve is unfenced and animals Saveur, National Geographic Travel and he gets down of his perch and strolls along the dirt road, eyes turned provides support to the many vulnerable children and orphans in the into the earth so that it completely blends in roam freely through it, the lodge staf escort BBC Travel.

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63 Rolling Stone.indd 2 10/30/18 1:53 PM 63 Rolling Stone.indd 3 10/30/18 1:53 PM LIKE A area. Swa Vana runs multi-purpose centers with its surroundings, entry is via a tunnel guests to and from their suites afer dark). If ROLLING STONE in local villages that ensure the children are through a hillside, which leads to 13 suites Selati channels the feel of “yesterday” and the fed, clothed, given access to healthcare, and with curved walls of sand, stone, and raw modern Earth Lodge is “tomorrow,” then the supervised afer school daily. Visitors to Sabi woodwork. Each of Sabi Sabi’s four lodges remaining two lodges (25-suite Bush Lodge Sabi can see frst-hand the work being done by has a distinct personality, with their diferent and six-suite Little Bush Camp) are “today.” Swa Vana, and get a glimpse into local village designs ofering a diferent type of experience. Both are warmly decorated with antiques life, on a community tour ofered by each of the If it’s the vintage African safari aesthetic gathered from around Africa; Little Bush reserve’s four luxury lodges scattered around you are looking for, book recently refurbished ofers intimacy while Bush Lodge appeals to Sabi Sabi’s sprawling reserve. Over lunch the seven-suite Selati Camp, complete with four- families with its “EleFun” children’s center. previous day, project manager Pontso Natoi poster beds, Persian carpets, roll-lipped bath Each lodge serves sumptuous barbecue told me how Swa Vana began in 2003 with 30 tubs and 19th-century railway antiques. dinners in its boma, a traditional livestock children and now cares for 375 children across Selati Camp evenings are set up in the style enclosure under the glittering African sky, or international cuisine inside the lodge. Together, the four lodges form a National Geographic-approved Unique Lodges of the World, one of a small, select group of world- class hotels chosen for their elevated guest experiences and commitment to protecting surrounding habitats and cultures (crucial to this point, the reserve has its own anti-poaching unit). Spend some time here and you’ll quickly understand that those are the very pillars of the Sabi Sabi experience. And what makes a visit EARTH LODGE here so much more than just a safari trip. I traveled to Johannesburg directly from New York with South African Airways. Sabi Sabi’s airstrip is a one-hour direct fight from O.R. Tambo International Airport (Johannesburg). Alternatively you can fy SABI SABI: A JOURNEY via Skukuza Airport or Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport (Nelspruit), or opt for a scenic 5-hour chaufeured or self-drive SOUTH AFRICA from Johannesburg. Lodges can be booked via Ker & Downey in the US. Reservations: A LION SLINKS PAST THE FEET OF JACK THE TRACKER. I’M SITTING IN THE BACK OF THE SAFARI VEHICLE WITH MY HEART IN MY MOUTH. JACK’S AT THE VERY FRONT. HE’S RAISED ABOVE THE VEHICLE IN A three diferent local communities. Watching Jack at work, I quickly realized that CHAIR ATTACHED TO THE HOOD AND IS ABSOLUTELY STILL. NOT EVEN HIS GAZE SHIFTS. UNTIL, SLOWLY, a safari at Sabi Sabi was about even more than THE LION MOVES AWAY. I LET OUT A BREATH IN RELIEF. JACK REMAINS COMPOSED. observing its abundant wildlife. And speaking to Pontso, I also came to fnd that the entire ’m in Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve on the edge of Greater to follow the tracks of an as-yet-unnamed (at least to the rest of us) experience goes deeper than a typical luxury Kruger National Park in South Africa, on my second safari of animal. A rife rides along with us in the jeep under the watchful eye of getaway. Tough, of course, there’s that too. the day—two open vehicle safaris (morning and evening) and Kevan, but even on these solitary strolls—on which Jack occasionally, Afer the bush drive, I add the day’s sightings I one midday walking safari are included in rates. With no fence heart stoppingly, slips out of view—I’ve never seen Kevan touch it. to my checklist—I was just missing bufalo to between the reserve and Kruger, animals roam freely, ofen under Trackers like Jack are, the ofen unsung, lifeblood of a Sabi Sabi safari complete the “Big Five” of lion, leopard, rhino, my group’s very noses, compelling Kevan, our ranger at the wheel, experience. Teir extraordinary intuition and knowledge of the bush bufalo and elephant—and return to Earth to brake ofen. At each stop, the shutters of our cameras whir and comes from growing up in the Shangaan villages that surround the Lodge for dinner in the underground wine chatter, slicing through the stillness of the bush. But Jack, always, sits reserve. Around eighty percent of Sabi Sabi’s employees come from cellar—the reserve has won accolades for its quietly. I have come to envy him a little: this is his world, he doesn’t the reserve’s surrounding villages and fnd roles at the reserve not only careful wine selection, which includes many of a bygone era with glowing lanterns dotted (800) 423-4236; www.sabisabi.com need to grasp each animal sighting as if it might be his last. out in the bush, but in everything from bartending to managing the rarities and South African wines from small around the camp. Selati’s honeymoon suite kerdowney.com fysaa.com Jack grew up in the area and is out in the bush every day. He’s worked lodges—there are eight members of a single family working here. boutique wineries. In spite of the waterbuck overlooks a watering hole ofen visited by -- at Sabi Sabi for 12 years and the animals have become part of his body. Tat’s just one illustration of how Sabi Sabi places community at the I’d spotted hovering around my private plunge elephants and lions. When I visited, the Karen Gardiner is a freelance writer from In his head, yes, as proved by his abundance of knowledge, but also in heart of its operation. Another is its focus on community development. pool that morning, it struck me that the previous night’s guests told me they had Scotland based in the U.S. Her recent stories the subtle movements of his chin, or his fngers — two in the air to tell Sabi Sabi is closely involved with a local organization named Swa Vana contemporary design of Earth Lodge was far seen the Big Five without even leaving the have appeared in Condé Nast Traveler, Kevan to stop, one to point. He stufs his hands in his pockets when (which means “For the Children” in the local Tsonga language), which from that of a typical game lodge. Embedded lodge (as the reserve is unfenced and animals Saveur, National Geographic Travel and he gets down of his perch and strolls along the dirt road, eyes turned provides support to the many vulnerable children and orphans in the into the earth so that it completely blends in roam freely through it, the lodge staf escort BBC Travel.

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63 Rolling Stone.indd 2 10/30/18 1:53 PM 63 Rolling Stone.indd 3 10/30/18 1:53 PM