Explore Africa's Wildlife Without Sacrificing Comfort at the Sabi Sabi
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50 TRAVEL GAME FOR SAFARI Explore Africa’s wildlife without sacrificing comfort at the Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve Text and Photos David Bowden ES G GETTY IMA MAIN PHOTO goingplaces january2014 51 GAME FOR SAFARI goingplaces january2014 52 TRAVEL f you’re into ticking off travel to ‘shoot’ what we saw with our experiences from a bucket cameras. list, an African wildlife safari Over the past two days, I have has got to be high on most been fortunate to see a whole people’s itineraries. They parade of wild animals. “It’s better Idon’t come much better than the than the zoo and so much more Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve thrilling without the fences,” adjoining Kruger National Park in commented one of the younger South Africa. members of the group. Patrick sat Visitors to Sabi Sabi have the at the front of the jeep casually unique opportunity to experience motioning with his hands to point getting very close to Africa’s iconic out wildlife to our driver/guide wildlife thanks to the experienced Marcus, who swung the vehicle rangers and trackers who know wherever Patrick indicated. Patrick’s the best parts of the park to start uncanny ability to spot wildlife and searching. to remain perched in his spotter’s While everyone travels to Sabi seat at the front of the vehicle as it Sabi to admire the wildlife, it’s the bounced and pounced forward was associated luxuries of gourmet a constant source of amazement cuisine, premium South African to us all. wines and luxurious spa treatments We had seen animals ranging that ensure it remains an award- from the Big Five to grazing giraffes winning lodge. and hungry-eyed hyenas within the sparse undergrowth. Wildlife here Mission accomplished is so abundant that you almost get Every time I ventured on a safari impatient with sitting around too drive with park ranger Marcus Hack long to photograph yet another (From top) and local tracker Patrick Myalungu, herd of elephants or a congress of Sunset over they appeared to be men on mischievous baboons. Sabi Sabi a mission. Together with five However today I sensed some American adventurers, I piled into frustration as our dynamic wildlife- Park rangers an open-topped four-wheel-drive as spotting duo appeared as if they like Marcus can Marcus fired the motor into action. had failed us. This may be because get tourists very Most visitors come to see Africa’s today was the day we were to close to the ‘Big Five’ – lion, leopard, rhinoceros, depart Sabi- Sabi and there were a wildlife in the elephant and buffalo. Within the few resident animals that we hadn’t park first day, we had ticked them all yet sighted. off our list. We were also informed Most visitors that the name Big Five is actually Cheating death come to see an old hunting term that reflected Suddenly, a message crackled Africa’s ‘Big the difficulty in shooting these and across the jeep’s two-way radio and Five’, including other animals. Fortunately, those Marcus exclaimed excitedly: “Yes, lions in the vehicle today were only here have I got something really >> “It’s better than the zoo and so much more thrilling without the fences” goingplaces january2014 5054 SLUG TRAVEL Malaysia Airlines’ code- share partner Qatar Airways flies from Kuala Lumpur (KUL)to Johannesburg (JNB) via Doha (DOH); from JNB, take a shuttle flight to Sabi Sabi Airstrip special for you all!” The accelerator to be in their hundreds by the ever- Tips for travellers: pedal was depressed and Marcus observant Patrick. As the cheetah had us weaving through the low stalked slowly across the parched Where to stay scrubby bushveld post haste as if plains, Marcus repositioned the 1. Earth Lodge is an intimate we had an important appointment vehicle and followed the hungry cat and luxurious retreat with that we simply had to keep. from a safe distance in accordance furniture made from recycled Naturally, we were all guessing as with Sabi Sabi’s policy of not trees uprooted by flooding. Each to what the excitement was as we chasing animals. of the 13 spacious suites includes made final checks on our camera It wasn’t long before the an outdoor plunge pool and a equipment to ensure we were fully cheetah hit a top speed that, voluminous free-standing tub. prepared for every eventuality. according to Marcus, could reach The kitchen lay on gourmet dishes Two other jeeps appeared in 90kph. But at this speed, they such as ostrich tartar with beetroot a clearing to indicate a sighting quickly overheat and burn out, he carpaccio, glazed beef fillet and and using a very well orchestrated added. From amongst the dust dark chocolate ravioli with lemon viewing order, one vehicle departed and commotion of the dispersing sorbet. The lodge’s wine cellar as we arrived. Despite being well impalas, the despondent cheetah stocks premium South African camouflaged, a majestic cheetah sat reappeared with its head down in wines. Facilities include WiFi, a spa, before us on its haunches just 15m the knowledge that it wasn’t yet bar, library, and swimming pool. away. Completely nonchalant to time for dinner. The impalas had our existence, it sat peering straight cheated death once again and 2. Bush Lodge is in a superb through us off into the distance. life on the bushveld returned to location where the central veranda Cameras clicked incessantly but a tranquil silence apart from the overlooks a large waterhole like on previous days, it was that “ohs”, “ahs” and “wows” from where animals including lions, point where enough was enough. within the jeep. elephants and buffalo come to Photos done, it was time to sit and On the way back to the lodge drink. The common areas are just relax while admiring the wild for yet another gourmet breakfast, beautifully maintained and the cat. After at least 30 minutes, the we were informed that cheetahs rooms provide enough comfort. cheetah slowly spurred into action, were indeed a rare sight as they The food is plentiful and good and firstly bristling the hairs on its neck were only seen a few times a meals are served buffet style. and then its head forward. It had month. Both our guide and tracker sensed something between us and were extremely satisfied with their Contacts the near distance. Naturally, Patrick morning’s effort as they had ticked For specialised holidays to was the first to spot the herd of all the boxes for us and fulfilled Sabi Sabi and other African impalas. everyone’s expectations. wildlife lodges, check out Asia Mere mortals like me saw only Now if only I had captured a to Africa Safaris (atoasafaris. spindly bushveld until the flicker of glimpse of the rare wild dog that I com) or Sabi Sabi Private Game a tail here and the startle of a head knew lived in the reserve. Maybe Reserve (sabisabi.com) there indicated the herd, estimated next time. goingplaces january2014.