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Aesthetics and Utility in a Tribal Fusion Belly Dance Troupe’S Costumes Jeana Jorgensen Butler University, [email protected]

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Aesthetics and Utility in a Tribal Fusion Belly Dance Troupe’S Costumes Jeana Jorgensen Butler University, Jsjorgen@Butler.Edu Butler University Digital Commons @ Butler University Scholarship and Professional Work - LAS College of Liberal Arts & Sciences 2006 Whether it’s coins, fringe, or just stuff that’s sparkly': Aesthetics and Utility in a Tribal Fusion Belly Dance Troupe’s Costumes Jeana Jorgensen Butler University, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.butler.edu/facsch_papers Part of the Dance Commons, Feminist, Gender, and Sexuality Studies Commons, Folklore Commons, and the Social and Cultural Anthropology Commons Recommended Citation Jorgensen, Jeana, "Whether it’s coins, fringe, or just stuff that’s sparkly': Aesthetics and Utility in a Tribal Fusion Belly Dance Troupe’s Costumes" Midwestern Folklore / (2006): 83-97. Available at http://digitalcommons.butler.edu/facsch_papers/673 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the College of Liberal Arts & Sciences at Digital Commons @ Butler University. It has been accepted for inclusion in Scholarship and Professional Work - LAS by an authorized administrator of Digital Commons @ Butler University. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Midwestern folklore. Terre Haute, Ind. : Dept. of English, Indiana State University, [1987- http://hdl.handle.net/2027/inu.30000125293849 Creative Commons Attribution http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#cc-by-3.0 This work is protected by copyright law (which includes certain exceptions to the rights of the copyright holder that users may make, such as fair use where applicable under U.S. law) but made available under a Creative Commons Attribution license. You must attribute this work in the manner specified by the author or licensor (but not in any way that suggests that they endorse you or your use of the work). Please check the terms of the specific Creative Commons license as indicated at the item level. For details, see the full license deed at http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/. Generated on 2015-07-10 17:32 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/inu.30000125293849 Creative Commons Attribution / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#cc-by-3.0 Jeana Jorgensen "Whether it's coins, or fringe, or just stuff that's sparkly:" Aesthetics and Utility in the Costumes of a Tribal Belly dance Troupe As both a scholar and a belly dancer, I believe that belly dance is recognizable on aesthetic grounds. In addition to the movements that belly dancers typically perform— muscle isolations, undulations, graceful hand motions and turns, and lots of hip work —belly dancers wear costumes that are visually identifiable as belly dance costumes. While this description may seem tautological, there are recognizable standards both in the public sphere and among dancers for what constitutes the belly dance image —or images, as belly dance is a diverse phenomenon that encompasses teaching, learning, performing, watching, socializing, and costuming. Though its origins are in the Middle East and Mediterranean (including influences from India, North Africa, Spain, and nomadic cultures such as Rom peoples), belly dance has achieved special status in America as a fusion form of dance. Indeed, the name belly dance is used only in English-speaking regions (Djoumahna 2000:10). The term belly dance is also very general; many belly dancers identify themselves as practicing a subcategory of the dance, apparent not only in the types of movements and music they prefer but also in their costuming choices. Some divisions in American styles of belly dance include cabaret, folkloric, and tribal. Brief definitions of these divisions will help provide context for this article's specific study of tribal belly dance costumes. Cabaret in America approximates styles practiced in clubs in the Middle East today. It is mostly a solo performance style, with a wide range of available movements that may be either choreographed or improvised; if a cabaret group performs (as opposed to an individual), the choreography is fixed. In an article, Dina, a cabaret belly dancer and costumer, addresses the question of what a cabaret costume is: "A magical vision of the glamorous, exotic belly dancer was popularized by Hollywood decades ago. In glittering bra and belly-baring skirt, draped with diaphanous veils, she undulated and shimmied to the accompaniment of her jingling finger cymbals. This cabaret style of costume and dance is flashier, more theatrical and more revealing than the many historic and ethnic styles of Middle Eastern cultures." Dina defines in structural terms the costume pieces that compose a cabaret outfit: "The cabaret costume usually consists of a fringed hip-belt, ornate bra, skirt and/or harem pants, and one or more veils. A fitted gown sometimes replaces bra and skirt. Decorative arm coverings, headpieces, and shoes are optional. Jewelry completes the ensemble" (2000: 108). The cabaret style allows for individual touches of glamour and glitz as desired by dancers. More than cabaret dance, folkloric belly dance in America values authenticity and traditionality. Kajira Djoumahna, author of The Tribal Bible: Exploring the Phenomenon That is American Tribal Style Bellydance, touches on folkloric styles in the U.S. in her definition of terms: "These groups learn as much as they can of actual folkloric dances of various countries in the Middle East, and then they change them if needed to suit their performance venues here in the U.S. These groups may or may not include completely authentic costuming, though their costumes do reflect an effort to appear traditional" Generated on 2015-07-10 17:32 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/inu.30000125293849 Creative Commons Attribution / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#cc-by-3.0 84 MIDWESTERN FOLKLORE (2003:iii). The emphasis on "traditional" dances and costumes is one reason why folkloric belly dance is often seen at Renaissance Faires and other cultural events that value authenticity and traditionality. As in cabaret, group performances tend to be strictly choreographed. In contrast to cabaret and folkloric styles, tribal belly dance originates entirely in America and is a collective improvisational style. Both the costuming style and the dance movements are syncretic (or fusional). The belly dancers that have written about tribal belly dance are divided as to whether they identify the dance style or the costumes as the defining factor of tribal belly dance. Relevant to their discussion is an important distinction between a general tribal style and the American Tribal Style (ATS).1 To some troupes the criteria that define ATS are movement-based. According to these dancers, for a performance to be deemed ATS, the following standards must be met: 1. There must be interaction between the dancers. This means no solo expressions unless at least one other dancer is present on the stage with you. Even then, the solo is not meant to be the focus of any Tribal performance. Working together in troupes of two or more dancers for the majority of the show is imperative for what you are doing to be called "Tribal." 2. This interaction between dancers during performance must be, at least primarily, improvisational. (Djoumahna 2003:i) Different tribal troupes negotiate this need for collective improvisation in different ways, but most follow or adapt the ATS system of cues, creating a shared vocabulary of dance movements that the dancers use to communicate with each other to facilitate improvising on stage. In contrast, the following definition focuses on costumes: "The most instantly recognizable aspect of ATS is the elaborate costume, with an ornately wrapped headpiece and multiple layers of fabric and antique jewelry" (Zenuba 2000:38).2 Regardless of the precise definitional balance of movement and costume, I would argue that costume is an important component not only in how tribal belly dance is defined but also in how it is performed and perceived. Additionally, costumes are an integral part of all belly dance due to the fact that it is a dance —at its most basic, "the body making patterns in time and space" (Royce 2002:3). But the body never dances unadorned in belly dance, so embellishments to the body must be taken into account when studying the dance. As Sheila Bock points out in her thesis on belly dance, "In dance performances, the viewer's attention is drawn to the movements of the body, and the body is used to communicate to the audience" (2005:50). What the body relates during a belly dance performance is especially important due to discourses of power and control affecting women in the United States. Belly dancers participate in these discourses not only by dancing but also by taking on identities and creating communities related to the dance; they also, through their motions and body modifications, necessarily make statements about issues such as ethnicity and femininity (Bock 2005:5 1). In addition to negotiating cultural issues, belly dancers express their aesthetic preferences and group memberships through bodily communications and clothing. Generated on 2015-07-10 17:32 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/inu.30000125293849 Creative Commons Attribution / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#cc-by-3.0 TRIBAL BELLY DANCE COSTUMES 85 Different Drummer at Gencon, August 2005. Front row: Heather and David. Back row, from left to right: Ann L., Ann S., Margaret, and Molly. The hairpieces Heather, Molly, and Ann S. are wearing are made of tubular crin; the hairpieces David and Margaret are wearing are made of foam an other components. Photo by Libby Bulloff. The Different Drummer Belly Dancers The same tension between individual creativity and group constraints that draws me to folklore attracted me to the study of belly dance costumes in tribal troupes. I chose to focus on one tribal troupe, Different Drummer Belly Dancers,3 for several reasons. First, they are easily accessible, meaning both that they are based where I live (in Bloomington, Indiana) and that they are friendly people.
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