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Breeding and Processing of Wool Specially Hair Fibres: Evaluation of Animal Fibers for Use in Textile Products

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Breeding and Processing of Wool Specially Hair Fibres: Evaluation of Animal Fibers for Use in Textile Products The International Journal of Indian Psychology ISSN 2348-5396 (e) | ISSN: 2349-3429 (p) Volume 7, Issue 4, DIP: 18.01.016/20190704 DOI: 10.25215/0704.016 http://www.ijip.in | October- December, 2019 Research Paper Breeding and processing of wool specially hair fibres: evaluation of animal fibers for use in textile products Nandita Maisnam1* ABSTRACT Textile products are composed of a range of materials and fibers. The natural protein fibers that are currently used in textile production such as wool, mohair, and silk can be very costly to the manufacturer and consumer. A non-traditional protein animal fiber, such as dog hair, can prove to be a cheaper, environmentally friendly, and very suitable substitute for the traditional protein fibers used today in textile processing. The use of this abundant protein fiber is very possibly a promising new avenue for the textile industry. Results show it would be reasonable to consider dog fiber as a possibility for conversion into staple yarns. With strength, percent strain, and modulus, as a basis, dog fibers would perform equally as well as traditionally used animal fibers, and possibly better in certain instances. Keywords: Wool, Fiber, Animal Fiber, Mohair, Yarns, Garment Fibre has been of great importance to man and rank second only to food in their usefulness. Animal fibres are largely those which cover mammals such as sheep, goats and rabbits, but also include cocoon of the silk-worm as well as feather from poultry. Globally natural Fibres contribute about 48% to the fibre basket with 38% from cotton, 8% from bast and allied fibres and 2% from wool and silk fibres. India is a vast country with 44 descript sheep breeds spread over a wide range environmental conditions. The Indian sheep breeds produce wool differing in fineness from 25 to 60 µ. As per economic survey, Government of India, the country produced about 45 m kg of raw wool (2007). Out of the total production of raw wool about 10 % was apparel grade, 70 % carpet grade and 20 % coarse grade. Specialty hair fibres obtained from Angora rabbit, Pashmina and Yak are popular for its superb whiteness, high warmth and softer feel. Wool is consumed mainly in suiting and knitted garments for men‟s wears while for women‟s wear, shawl, coating and dress material are major products. In addition, one of the important end use of non-apparel wool is in hand knotted, tufted and woven carpets. Woollen industry in India is small in size as compared to cotton and synthetic fibre based industry, wool and woollen activities in rural areas are having important position. The woollen industry including carpet sector contributes about Rs. 5000 crore in export earnings. Moreover the industry provides employment and source of sustenance to about one million people mostly 1Assistant Professor, Department Of Home Science, Biramangol College, Sawombung,Imphal East, India *Responding Author Received: September 15, 2019; Revision Received: October 23, 2019; Accepted: December 25, 2019 © 2019, N Maisnam; licensee IJIP. This is an Open Access Research distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any Medium, provided the original work is properly cited. Breeding and processing of wool specially hair fibres: evaluation of animal fibers for use in textile products belonging to low income group. In addition the expansion of the industry particularly the Khadi, handloom and carpet segments will create more job opportunities in future. SCENARIO OF WOOL AND SPECIALTY HAIR IN INDIA Wool Production India is a vast country with 44 descript sheep breeds spread over a wide range environmental conditions. The Indian sheep breeds produce wool differing in fineness from 25 to 60 µ. These wools are mainly utilized for the manufacture of hand-knotted, tufted and handloom woven carpets. As per economic survey, Government of India, the country produced about 45 m kg of raw wool (2007). Out of the total production of raw wool about 10 % was apparel grade, 70 % carpet grade and 20 % coarse grade. The annual growth of wool production is marginal and wool production has remained static for last 10 years. Wool yield per sheep in India is about 800-1000 g/year. The country can be divided into 4 agro climate regions with reference to wool production. The sheep population is more or less equally spread in North Western parts of the country covering the states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Punjab and Haryana and Southern Peninsular region consisting of State of Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Tamilnadu and Karnataka. However, wool production is more in North western region than Southern Peninsular region. The wool produced in North-Western region finer than Southern Peninsular region. The production of wool in the country is not satisfactory mainly because of dominance of medium fine wool, carpet wool and coarse wool/hairy sheep breeds. Moreover, for most part of the year the animals are subjected to under feeding mainly due to over stocking far exceeding the carrying capacity of the land and unfavourable agro-climatic conditions. In order to avoid prevailing harsh agro-climatic conditions and loss of production, the sheep farmers resort to short and long distance even inter-state migration with their stock and return back to their native tract in the favourable season. With the onset of summer, the sheep farmers of western India migrate to neighbouring states namely, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Haryana and Punjab while those from the sub Himalayan region migrate to Alpine meadows. Continuous drought during last decade has changed the breed composition, production response and marketing structure of sheep produce in the dominant sheep producing regions of the country. Speciality hair fibres Angora rabbit hair, Pashmina and yak wool are main important speciality hair fibres are found in our country. The fineness of Angora rabbit hair ranges between 12 -14 micron. In our country, rabbits are reared in Himachal Pradesh. Central Sheep & wool Research Institute also has got its station in Himachal Pradesh at GARSA where different varieties of Rabbits i.e. British, German and Russian are reared. German rabbits are the best. Pashmina or Cashmere is obtained from Changthangi and Chegu breed goats that are famous for their softest, finest and warmest commercial natural animal fiber. The average diameter of pashmina produced in most of the countries is ranging in between 11-18 micron. © The International Journal of Indian Psychology, ISSN 2348-5396 (e)| ISSN: 2349-3429 (p) | 147 Breeding and processing of wool specially hair fibres: evaluation of animal fibers for use in textile products Table 1: Animal Fibres: Production, Quality and Products Name of the Production Fineness Source Product fibre Lakh kg Micron Wool Sheep 456 22-60 Carpets, blankets, Felts, shirting, suiting etc. Pashmina Cashmere goat 0.4 10-15 Shawls and knitwears Rabbit hair Angora Rabbit 0.5 10-14 Shawls and Knitwears Yak fibre Yak 0.1 15-25 Shawl and knitwear Wool Marketing in India The single weakest link after production of wool is marketing of wool in the country. Wool marketing in India is essentially in the hands of private wool merchants and traders. The producer of wool rarely takes the wool to the markets. A substantial proportion of wool is purchased by village merchants. The merchants/commission agents in wool market sell wool on behalf of village merchants or purchase the wool for themselves. There is a common practice of wool producers selling their wool per animal basis well before the shearing season by taking money in advance. The reasons for village level selling are ascribed to distant locations of wool mandies causing transportation problem. The unscientific wool marketing practices are completely against the interest of woolgrowers that have stunted production of wool over the years. To ensure remunerative price to woolgrowers, to provide protection to them against exploitation by the middlemen, to make available good quality and well-graded raw material to wool industry, it is imperative that effective market intervention is made by government agencies. The availability of animal fibres except sheep wool is very meagre and therefore, their marketing is not at all organized. These fibres are sold locally and used locally. However, with the efforts of some developmental agencies, the production of rabbit hair has increased in the states of Himachal Pradesh and Uttrakhand. The price of rabbit hair is also not constant and fluctuates with the price of rabbit hair in international market. Further, with the globalization and open market approach the survival of this species and its products have to face a stiff competition in the times to come. Presently, India produces about 100 tons specialty hair fibres per year (50 ton Angora rabbit hair, 10 ton yak fibre and 40 ton Pashmina wool). The value of these fibres is approximate Rs. 10 crores which fetch a value of 200 crores after processing and value addition. Among animal hair fibres, the share of speciality hair is very small. TRADITIONAL ANIMAL FIBERS Society has used animal fibers for clothing, shelter, rugs, and many other miscellaneous items for decades. Animals have been part of everyday survival since long ago when they were hunted for food, and then the skin and hair served many other purposes. The most well known and most used of these exotic fibers today are wool, mohair, cashmere, and camelhair. Each fiber has its own distinguishing characteristics, and serves unique purposes. Wool Wool, the hair of a sheep, has been used for clothing, upholstery, and carpeting for many years. It possesses many fine qualities such as warmth and water resistance, but also has its downsides, such as being a very dirty fiber initially and having problems with shrinkage.
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