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Transport of Larvae and Detritus Across the Surf Zone of a Steep Reflective Pocket Beach

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Transport of Larvae and Detritus Across the Surf Zone of a Steep Reflective Pocket Beach Vol. 528: 71–86, 2015 MARINE ECOLOGY PROGRESS SERIES Published May 28 doi: 10.3354/meps11223 Mar Ecol Prog Ser FREEREE ACCESSCCESS Transport of larvae and detritus across the surf zone of a steep reflective pocket beach Alan L. Shanks1,*, Jamie MacMahan2, Steven G. Morgan3, Ad J. H. M Reniers4, Marley Jarvis1, Jenna Brown2, Atsushi Fujimura4, Chris Griesemer3 1Oregon Institute of Marine Biology, University of Oregon, PO Box 5389, Charleston, Oregon 97420, USA 2Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, 327c Spanagel Hall, Monterey, California 93943, USA 3Bodega Marine Laboratory, Department of Environmental Science and Policy, University of California Davis, 2099 Westside Dr., Bodega Bay, California 94923-0247, USA 4Department of Hydraulic Engineering, Delft University of Technology, Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Stevinweg 1, 2628CN Delft, The Netherlands ABSTRACT: Larvae of many intertidal species develop offshore and must cross the surf zone to complete their onshore migration to adult habitats. Depending on hydrodynamics, the surf zone may limit this migration, especially on reflective rocky shores. As a logistically tractable analog of a rocky shore environment, we carried out a comprehensive biological and physical study of the hydrodynamics of a steep reflective sandy beach. Holoplankton and precompetent larval inverte- brates were much less abundant within the surf zone than offshore, and their concentrations inside and outside the surf zone were not significantly correlated, suggesting that they were not entering the surf zone. Persistent offshore flow throughout the water column at the outer edge of the surf zone may prevent these organisms from entering the surf zone. In contrast, the concentra- tions of detritus and a competent larval invertebrate (i.e. cyprids), while also not significantly cor- related with concentrations offshore, were frequently more concentrated in the surf zone than offshore. Within the surf zone, the concentration of detritus was significantly correlated with con- centrations of competent larval invertebrates (barnacles, gastropods, polychaetes, and bopyrid amphipod) and organisms that may be associated with detritus (amphipods and harpacticoid copepods). These concentrations were significantly negatively correlated with average daily wave height. We hypothesize that detritus and larvae enter the surf zone near the bottom during calm wave conditions by a process of near-bottom streaming. Near-bottom streaming is associated with all surf zones and may be a general mechanism for onshore transport of larvae close to the coast. KEY WORDS: Streaming · Cyprids · Competent larvae · Precompetent larvae · Detritus · Reflective beach · Cross-shore exchange Resale or republication not permitted without written consent of the publisher INTRODUCTION pend on surf zone exchange processes to transport them onshore. Thus, onshore migrations of all larvae Larval development of many intertidal fishes and should be facilitated when water in the surf zone is invertebrates occurs in the coastal ocean. At the end exchanged with adjacent water seaward of the surf of their development, these larvae must return to zone, and reduced when this exchange is limited. shore to settle into their adult habitat. The last stage Surf zone hydrodynamics, in particular the ex - in this shoreward migration is to enter and cross the change of water, varies with beach morphology and surf zone. Strong swimming larvae may be able to wave conditions. Beach morphology varies from dis- swim across, but weak swimming larvae likely de - sipative to reflective. Dissipative beaches are rela- *Corresponding author: [email protected] © Inter-Research 2015 · www.int-res.com 72 Mar Ecol Prog Ser 528: 71–86, 2015 tively flat with subaqueous bars (resulting in a wide flection for normally incident monochromatic waves surf zone), whereas reflective beaches are character- on a planar beach. Battjes (1974) also empirically ized by steep beach slopes, coarse sand, narrow surf related wave reflection, R, to the Iribarren number, ξ: zones, and (at some shores) swash rips (Wright & R = ~0.1ξ2 (when ξ≤3) (1) Short 1984). Dissipative and reflective beaches are 2 ends of a continuum of sandy beach morphodyna - where: mics (Wright & Short 1984), but at rocky shores, surf zones are primarily reflective due to the steepness of tanβ ξ = (2) the shore. Surf zone hydrodynamics differ consider- H b L ably between dissipative and reflective shores. These o diverse hydrodynamic conditions may lead to differ- where tan β is the beach slope from the breakpoint to ential exchange of water, which may translate into the shore line, Hb is the wave height at breaking, and differential larval settlement and recruitment. In a Lo is the deep water wave length, defined as: comparative study of recruitment of intertidal organ- gT 2 isms to rocks on beaches along the coasts of Oregon Lo = (3) 2π and northern California, Shanks et al. (2010) found that much higher recruitment occurred at more dis - where g is gravitational acceleration and T is the sipative than at reflective shores. wave period. Eq. (2) relates beach slope to wave Several comprehensive field studies have been per - steepness (Hb/Lo). Note that R describes the ratio of formed at dissipative beaches, such as Torrey Pines, seaward propagating wave height to shoreward CA (Seymour 1989), Duck, NC (Elgar et al. 2001), propagating wave height; R = 1 represents 100% Monterey Bay, CA (MacMahan et al. 2005), and Truc reflection and R = 0 represents zero wave reflection Vert, France (Sénéchal et al. 2011). Recent studies (i.e. 100% wave dissipation). R estimates from natu- have focused on understanding the cross-shore trans- ral beaches are limited (Elgar et al. 1994) and are port of material in the surf zone (Imperial Beach and often calculated from beaches that are mildly reflec- Monterey Bay, CA). These recent efforts have shown tive (R Ӎ 0.3 for 0.05 to 0.15 Hz) at higher tides with that a primary mechanism for exchange at more lower energy waves (Tatavarti et al. 1988, Elgar et al. dissipative beaches is related to rip currents that 1994, Miles & Russell 2004). episodically pulse surf zone waters offshore (Reniers A field study to evaluate cross-shore exchange was et al. 2009, MacMahan et al. 2010). Rip currents performed over 40 d during the summer of 2011 at a strengthen with increasing wave height and at low steep beach at Carmel River State Beach, California. tides (MacMahan et al. 2005). However, despite Here, we describe new physical and biological field these studies, the cross-shore exchange at dissipative observations obtained from that study. We first pro- beaches still requires further investigation. In con- vide a description of the surf zone and nearshore trast, the cross-shore exchange process at reflective waves, water temperature, and currents as an over- beaches/ shores has received much less attention. view of this steep beach system. We then present evi- Theoretically, due to the lack of rip currents, reduc- dence suggesting how detritus, along with compe- tion in undertow, and the narrow episodic surf zone, tent larval invertebrates (i.e. those capable of settling reflective beaches may afford a less efficient ex - and metamorphosing) may enter a reflective surf change of water between the surf zone and the zone at a sandy beach. Significant correlations be - region seaward of breaking waves than more dis - tween the concentrations of detritus and a variety of sipative shores. competent larval invertebrates in the surf zone sug- Surface gravity waves evolve as they propagate gest that the mechanism of transport into reflective from deep to shallow water, and in most cases the surf zones may be similar. These observations pro- shoreward-propagating waves are dissipated near vide clues to the transport processes. the shoreline by wave breaking (Thornton & Guza 1983). There are, however, conditions when shore- ward-propagating waves reflect at the shoreline (El- MATERIALS AND METHODS gar et al. 1994). Steep beaches are known for narrow, energetic surf (swash) zones and higher wave reflec- In June and July 2011, a comprehensive biological tion which induces cross-shore standing wave pat- and physical study was performed at Carmel River terns (Battjes 1974). In a laboratory setting, Miche State Beach (CRSB) California (36° 32’ 18’’ N, 121° (1951) empirically determined the amount of wave re- 55’ 43’’ W), a 0.6 km long pocket beach located at the Shanks et al.: Larval delivery to a reflective surf zone 73 mouth of the Carmel River (Fig. 1). The Carmel River tween 3 and 7 m tidally-averaged water depth and periodically breached and closed on the south side of sampled ocean currents and waves for 40 d (instru- the beach during this experiment. The beach profile ment locations are presented in Fig. 1; positive is off- consisted of a 1:7.6 subaerial beach slope, 1:3 sub- shore and to the south). The ADCPs were mounted aqueous beach step, and 1:19 subaqueous beach pro- ~35 cm above the seabed. Velocity measurements file. There were no subaqueous bars or terraces; were obtained in 0.5 m bins; the bins near the wavy rocky intertidal zones were located at either end of sea surface were removed, and the ADCPs did not the beach, and a large kelp bed was situated offshore measure velocities within 0.5 m of the bottom. The at the northern end of the beach (Fig. 1). The bathy - ADCPs also recorded the pressure and bottom water metry and upper beachface profiles were acquired temperature at 1 Hz. A fourth ADCP (ADCP 4; Fig. 1) by investigators walking with a global positioning was deployed in 12 m water depth and measured system (GPS), and with a GPS- and echosounder- waves (e.g. wave height and period) for 40 min in a equipped electric kayak. burst mode every hour. Additionally, an array of 6 A cross-shore array of 3 self-contained, continu- Electromagnetic Current Meters (EMCMs) vertically ously 1 Hz sampling, 2 MHz Nortek Acoustic Doppler spaced at 0.2 m was de ployed for 5 d (Yeardays 169 Current Profilers (ADCPs 1 to 3) was deployed be- to 173) to observe the vertical structure of the cur- Fig.
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