SY Polarwind

The sailing trip

Cape Horn and the Glaciers of Tierra del Fuego (12 days)

Description:

This unique sailing trip starts and ends in Puerto Williams, Chile’s southernmost town, located on the island of Navarino. SY Polarwind has its berth here at the Micalvi Yacht Club, which also happens to be the world’s southernmost yacht club. Osvaldo E. Escobar Torres is the ship’s owner, and is present on all tours as skipper. He is Chilean, and besides Spanish speaks fluent German as well as English and Portuguese. The fact that Osvaldo is Chilean and has spent more than 15 years living in this region means that he can offer his crew a truly unique sailing experience. Apart from his sailing skills and knowledge of the region, Osvaldo is committed to bringing the flora and fauna, as well as the history and the people of Tierra del Fuego closer to his guests.

Day 1

By 11.00 am on the first day, all crew members (the maximum is five) should be present on SY Polarwind. The skipper, Osvaldo, greets the crew and provides a thorough introduction to the boat. There’s plenty of time for the crew members to unpack and settle in. Once all are settled, Osvaldo goes through the safety instructions which are of course for this sailing region particularly important. The group studies the maps and the skipper describes the route. The forecast for the following days is also taken into account since more than anything it is the weather that will dictate the route. . In the afternoon there will be time for a walk through Puerto Williams. The town has about 3000 inhabitants, most of which are Chilean marines and their families. In the small nearby settlement of Ukika live descendants of the Yamana Indians, the indigenous people of Tierra del Fuego. One can learn more about the Yamana in Puerto Williams’ Martin-Gusinde-Museum. Puerto Williams provides the last possibility to provision before leaving for Cape Horn. This is also where the skipper must obtain the permission for the trip from the Chilean maritime authorities. Without this permission, the primary objective of which is to ensure safety, no ship is allowed to approach Cape Horn. The first night on board is spent in Micalvi. The little bar there is the traditional meeting spot for Cape Horn sailors, where those who wish can try the typical Pisco Sour.

Day 2:

The first leg of the journey leads 22 miles eastward through the Beagle Channel to Puerto Toro, a small fishing village with about 20 houses and only reachable by boat. The SY Polarwind moors for the night on the fishing wharf. If the trip falls within the right season, with a bit of luck it may be possible to enjoy the regional delicacy of king crab – or in Spanish “Centolla” -- for dinner. A walk around the village gives the crew the opportunity to meet the “Alcamar” the local representative of the Chilean navy, stationed with his family in the village and who manages the outpost. He is responsible for the local maritime weather report, and will be in the position to say whether or not it will be possible to proceed the next day over Nassau Bay towards Cape Horn, or if it will be necessary to stay put in Puerto Toro until weather conditions improve.

Day 3:

Weather permitting, SY Polarwind sets sail southwards over Nassau Bay. 47 nautical miles lie between Puerto Toro and the Wollaston archipelago. Leaving Puerto Toro, the SY Polarwind passes first through the Goree channel and then over Nassau Bay. Now it is not far to Cape Horn, only 13 miles! The night will be spent anchored in a protected bay, in Caleta Martial by Herschell Island, or in Caleta Maxwell. Now the crew must wait for the right opportunity to safely round the legendary Cape. With luck it could be the next day, but by bad weather there is no choice but to wait it out. The naval station Islas Wollaston is responsible for us here, i.e. we have to notify them of our location and receive from them the local weather report.

Day 4:

Course: Cape Horn! The rounding of this famous Cape is one of the highlights of the trip. Normally, the cape will be rounded from West to East. When the weather cooperates and we have the permission of the Maritime authority, the crew will visit the station on Cape Horn. Along with the lighthouse there is also a small chapel, Stella Maris, and the famous Cape Horn monument, both certainly worth a visit. The Chilean navy operates the station and the family stationed here are happy to have visitors. Osvaldo also spent time manning the lighthouse and can share some interesting stories with the crew.

After leaving Cape Horn we sail another 15 miles to Martial Bay where we will anchor for the night, and celebrate our day’s success with a good dinner on board.

Day 5 :

SY Polarwind sets sail northwards, back over Nassau Bay and into the Beagle Channel. Course is set for Lennox Island (30 sea miles) or, depending on wind and weather conditions, the island of Picton (55 sea miles). A dispute over these two islands almost led to war between Chile and Argentina in 1978. It’s possible to hike on both and learn about the local flora and fauna. If we are lucky with the weather it may also be possible to have a real “Asado” on the beach, i.e. the typical barbeque for the region.

Day 6:

The next leg of the trip brings us back to Puerto Williams. Along the way we will pass by the wreck of the LOGOS, which in 1982 ran aground on a sand bank five miles off Picton Island. SY Polarwind sails carefully into the narrow passage of the Holger archipelago, where at one time the Yamana Indians lived and travelled the waters by canoe. On many of the rocks one can observe seal colonies, as well as water birds on and around the cliffs. A good knowledge of the area is a must in order to travel safely through this archipelago, so, though one may come across a local fisher or two, it is seldom to encounter other sailboats in the area. The voyage then continues further westwards through the Beagle Channel and back to Puerto Williams. In Puerto Williams a new permit must be obtained from the Chilean navy for the second half of the trip. Skipper and crew will also take the opportunity to stock up on supplies such as fresh bread, before heading out the next day towards the glaciers of Tierra del Fuego.

Day 7:

SY Polarwind sails along the north side of Navarino Island and passes by the northern end of the Murray Channel, a waterway of particular importance to the Yamana Indians. Many small anchorages can be found in the 33 miles between Puerto Williams and the Campamento Islands. SY Polarwind will anchor in one of these nameless bays, which we like to call “Caleta Polarwind”, securing the boat with long landlines to the trees along the shore. This bay offers very good protection from the west and southwest winds that are so common for this area. A hike through the pristine woods of the island brings us to what was at one time a Yamana Indian settlement. A little further along one comes across a large beaver damn, where Osvaldo can take the opportunity to tell the crew a bit about the life of these animals, as well as the damage that they have caused on the island.

Day 8:

The Beagle Channel narrows, and high snow-covered peaks emerge on both sides of the channel. The SY Polarwind sails into the northwest arm of the channel. Twenty-four miles after leaving the anchorage that morning we reach the larger bay, Caleta Olla. With the anchor and two landlines the boat lies secure for the night. On the opposite side of the bay it’s possible to hike up to a lookout to get a good view of the first glacier “Hollanda”. From the anchorage Osvaldo takes up radio contact with the Chilean maritime station “Yamana”, to let them know the boat and crew’s present position, and to get the latest weather report. Osvaldo also worked at this station during his time in the navy.

Day 9:

Course continues westward through the „Glacier Channel“. The peaks of Monte Frances, Monte Italia and Monte Boye lie starboard. Then comes a clear view of a series of glaciers, one after the other: Italia, Francia, Alemania and Romance. They flow directly into the Beagle Channel and with a bit of luck we may see some calving. A few hours later, SY Polarwind approaches the highlight of the glacier world. 22 miles from Caleta Olla we enter the Pia Fjord. Sailing the entrance to the fjord is not so easy and requires Osvaldo’s full concentration. The SY Polarwind will approach the ice floes from the glacier in the east arm of the fjord. The boat will anchor, together with three landlines, in a small bay for the night. Nearby there is a small waterfall. It’s a tradition for the skipper to take a shower here in the glacial water – crewmembers are welcome to join if they want!

Day 10:

In the morning, we sail into the west arm of the fjord. Because of the ice it is only possible to proceed very slowly under motor. At times like this is it is especially reassuring to know that the boat has a steal hull. At the base of the glacier, but still at a safe distance from any falling chunks of ice, it’s time to kill the motor and savour not only the breathtaking view, but also a true “whiskey on the rocks”. The remainder of the day is used to travel back out of the fjord and back through the north-west arm of the Beagle Channel. Depending on the weather, the anchorage for the night may be in the little bay called “Borracho”, which directly translated means “drunk”. This bay offers particularly good protection from strong west winds and the resulting swell in the channel.

The crew has in this bay its own „private“ barbeque spot, after all, no sailing trip is complete without experiencing the typical Tierra del Fuego beach barbeque. From the anchorage it is possible to make a short, 30 minute hike through the underbrush to the Beagle Channel. It is also possible to anchor in Ferrari Bay by the “Estancia Yendegaia”. The broad bay is the only anchorage on the trip where landlines are not used. A visit here to “Estancia Gaucho José” is a must. If the crew is willing, they can go on horseback with José on a three-hour ride into the hinterland. Not to worry, José has good control of all his horses, and can recommend particularly obedient ones for those riders with little or no horseback riding experience.

Day 11:

The last leg of the trip brings us back to Puerto Williams, again along the north side of Navarino Island. SY Polarwind docks at Micalvi, and after a good dinner on board, the crew can retreat to the local bar and celebrate their last evening together over a Pisco Sour or a beer.

Day 12:

The sailing adventure in Tierra del Fuego has come to an end. After breakfast, it’s time to pack and say goodbye.

Note: The route described here is not guaranteed. Changes to the route due to weather conditions, or other unforeseen occurrences, are possible. .