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SHOPPING for WHOLENESS: the POLITICAL ECONOMY of WHOLE FOODS MARKET and the COMMODIFICATION of ALTRUISM By

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SHOPPING for WHOLENESS: the POLITICAL ECONOMY of WHOLE FOODS MARKET and the COMMODIFICATION of ALTRUISM By SHOPPING FOR WHOLENESS: THE POLITICAL ECONOMY OF WHOLE FOODS MARKET AND THE COMMODIFICATION OF ALTRUISM by Allison Lakomski A Dissertation Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of George Mason University in Partial Fulfillment of The Requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy Cultural Studies Committee: Director Program Director Dean, College of Humanities and Social Sciences Date: Fall Semester 2015 George Mason University Fairfax, VA Shopping for Wholeness: The Political Economy of Whole Foods Market and the Commodification of Altruism A Dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at George Mason University by Allison Lakomski Master of Arts Simmons College, 2008 Director: Paul Smith, Professor Department of Cultural Studies Fall Semester 2015 George Mason University Fairfax, VA This work is licensed under a creative commons attribution-noderivs 3.0 unported license. ii DEDICATION This dissertation is dedicated to my mom, who taught me how to comparison-shop, and my dad, who taught me the aesthetic principles of grocery retailing. iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank the many people who have encountered on this journey and who have helped me along the way, especially my colleagues in the Cultural Studies program, coworkers at Penzeys Spices and Vida Fitness, and the staff at Whole Foods Market P St. Thanks to my closest friends and family for the emotional support and endless kindness. A million thanks to Peter Regan for everything but listening to me. A special thank you to Dan and Heather Anderson, Lisa Daily, and Ariella Horwita for inspiration, motivation, and personal and professional guidance. I owe a debt of extreme gratitude to Amy Bohler, Jeremy Moule, EL Putnam, Marti Smallidge, and Rudy Zamora for their comments and assistance proofreading. Professors Paul Smith, Alison Landberg, Denise Albanese, and Gabriella Petrick have all kept me motivated and focused to bring this work into fruition. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS Page List of Figures..................................................................................................................viii Abstract.............................................................................................................................. ix Introduction......................................................................................................................... 1 Whole Foods Market: A Cause for Conversation ........................................................... 1 Whole Foods by Any Other Name .............................................................................. 7 The Evolution of Whole Foods ................................................................................. 19 A Whole Project ........................................................................................................ 29 Chapter 1........................................................................................................................... 38 The Historical Intersection: Supermarkets, Natural Foods, and Consumer-Citizens ... 38 History 1: The Consumer-Citizen.............................................................................. 44 History 2: A Super-Market........................................................................................ 62 History 3: A Natural Alternative ............................................................................... 90 Wholeness, Factually............................................................................................... 109 Chapter 2......................................................................................................................... 113 Less Processed, More Value ....................................................................................... 113 v Semantics: The Origin of ‘Organic’ ........................................................................ 116 Forging Higher Standards........................................................................................ 129 Relatively Organic................................................................................................... 140 Organic Through the Eyes of the Beholder............................................................. 146 Naturally Different .................................................................................................. 152 Chapter 3......................................................................................................................... 164 A Shade of Green ........................................................................................................ 164 A Whole Lot of Waste............................................................................................. 167 Recognizably Green ................................................................................................ 173 Plastic is Not Elastic................................................................................................ 180 The Cost of Freshness.............................................................................................. 194 Greenwashing or Greenwishing?............................................................................. 205 Chapter 4......................................................................................................................... 217 The Community That Gives is the Community That Spends ..................................... 217 Gentrification and Its Discontents ........................................................................... 221 Of Money and Morals.............................................................................................. 233 Location is Everything............................................................................................. 239 Creating the Creative Community........................................................................... 243 Creativity Unbound ................................................................................................. 254 vi Gentrified Community: A Mirage? ......................................................................... 259 Chapter 5......................................................................................................................... 279 The Labor of Consciousness ....................................................................................... 279 There is no “I” in Team ........................................................................................... 285 Consciousness on Top ............................................................................................. 305 The Un-Wholly Union............................................................................................. 326 Chapter 6......................................................................................................................... 341 The Indirect Action of Commodity Altruism.............................................................. 341 Of Free Markets and Fairness.................................................................................. 344 What Fairness Looks Like....................................................................................... 360 The Scale of Fairness............................................................................................... 367 “They are not buying a banana. They are buying a dream.” ................................... 381 The Hierarchy of Dependency Behind a Façade of Fairness .................................. 392 Conclusion ...................................................................................................................... 410 The Value of Values: Where Profits and Ethics Clash ............................................... 410 Bibliography ................................................................................................................... 434 vii LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page Figure 1: Comparison of the back panels of boxes of Annie’s Homegrown Bunny Grahams and Honey Maid’s Teddy Grahams................................................................. 184 Figure 2: “Collaborative Composting” chart presented by Matthew Toavs of Whole Foods Market at the US Composting Council Annual Conference in 2012................... 201 Figure 3: Logos of Fairtrade International and Fair Trade USA. ................................... 352 Figure 4: Whole Trade Guarantee Logo. ........................................................................ 354 viii ABSTRACT SHOPPING FOR WHOLENESS: THE POLITICAL ECONOMY OF WHOLE FOODS MARKET AND THE COMMODIFICATION OF ALTRUISM Allison Lakomski, Ph.D. George Mason University, 2015 Dissertation Director: Dr. Paul Smith For the majority of Americans, Whole Foods Market needs no introduction. Whole Foods started as a small natural foods store in Austin, Texas, but has grown into the eighth- largest food and drug store chain in the United States, earning recognition for it higher ethics and its higher prices in the process. Despite the recent attention given to Whole Foods Market Corporation in academic and popular literature, few analyses have considered the breadth of its actions and the potential long-term impact of its corporate financial success. Working from Whole Foods’ CEO John Mackey’s theory of “Conscious Capitalism,” this dissertation is an analysis of the contradictions in the company’s attempt to produce social, economic, and ecological change through a modified form of capitalism. Situating Whole Foods within
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