practical: bluewater cruising

Stuart and Nanette (right) are renuited with their yacht in Mooloolaba. Getting to SE Asia is usually relatively easy because of the SE trade winds, but getting back can be another kettle of fish entirely. David Bowden shares his observations after having researched all the options and put his preferred one to the test. Getting back from SE Asia

Getting back from South East Asia started from the north tip of , can be a daunting thought sufficient motored (mostly) through Indonesian to put cruisers off from even thinking waters over the top of PNG and via about heading out to this adventurous the Louisiades to Townsville. This trip cruising ground. The passage from was horrible with strong headwinds, Australia to Thailand has been well adverse currents, big seas, storms along recorded by many writers. The west- the PNG coast and not a sailing angle bound trip can be completed in the until approaching the Louisiades. winter months by joining the popular Another yacht which was not making Sail and Sail Rallies much progress on the leg Saumlaki but stories of the return to Australia are to Gove, ended up in Darwin from few and far between. This is the story where it was trucked to Brisbane. of one way to return to the east coast Another yacht travelled via Irian of Australia from SE Asia but more to Thursday Island and noted very specifically East Malaysia or Borneo, as difficult wind and seas approaching it is commonly referred to by the locals. Torres Strait. A very experienced yachtie reported using his engine for 2010 experience 1500 hours on the trip Kota Kinabalu In 2010 about 10 yachts returned from (KK) to Brisbane. We had also planned South East Asia by several routes and to make the trip back from Borneo few, if any of these, were enjoyable. a bit in later in 2010, so we tracked There was never a shortage of fresh food! For example in August, six yachts these yacht movements and sought

50 November 2011 practical: bluewater cruising

Owner Stuart enjoying a beautiful sunset on Truest Passion on an earlier cruise.

information on their sailing conditions. cyclone season which was forecast southwest from KK) and together with Because we thought we were too late to be bad. Paul and Judy flew to KK to start the to make our run starting in September, An affirmative reply within 12 hours delivery preparations. we changed our mind and planned on a resulted in our cancelling the Philippine cruise to the Philippines instead. cruise (we had already cleared customs Well set up and were departing Malaysian waters) Truest Passion is a Seawind 1160 Change in plans and returning to KK to look over his and is very well set up by Stuart and Then our plans changed dramatically as yacht and start preparing for the Nanette (CH June 2006 has much of the yachting plans often do. A good friend, voyage. Because the trip was expected background on Stuart’s influence on Stuart Simpson, was diagnosed with to be mostly continuous motor-sailing the Seawind 1160) so it was a matter of cancer and had to leave his with long passages, I contacted a loading fuel, provisions, checking all in Kota Kinabalu while he and Nanette few colleagues to see if any were equipment, scrubbing the hulls, getting flew to Brisbane for extended oncology interested in joining the trip to share to know the systems and clearing out treatment. As things progressed and the watches. Fortunately Paul and Judy of the marina. Stuart had so many delivery options began to look pretty from Meridian of Sydney accepted the rope clutches and tweekers (he is a grim, I offered to bring his yacht back. offer. They had sailed with Stuart and perfectionist) that we used a whiteout It occurred to me that by moving Nanette on their catamaran for the pen to mark all of them so that finding quickly (eg planning on motor-sailing five-day Borneo International Yacht the right one in the middle of the night with few stops) via a more direct track Challenge from Miri to KK, so had some was simplified. to Gove (rather than north of PNG knowledge of how things worked. We Our plan was to day-hop round the where our colleagues were having such put our catamaran This Way Up in the north tip of Borneo to the east coast a rough passage) we could beat the Miri Marina (about three days’ sail where we would clear Malaysian

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BELOW: Dutch relics river mouths we were constantly are everywhere on changing heading to avoid them. Banda. This cannon overlooked the town Planned route and nearby plantations. Our planned route through Indonesian waters now required several passages of about 300-400nm each. We carried a total of 520 litres of diesel (400 internal and 120 in jerrys) and were expecting to motor-sail at just over seven knots on one motor using 2.3 litres per hour which gave us a theoretical max range over 1000nm. The figures were pretty good, but we did not always maintain the 7+ kts (SOG) because of wind, sea and current which at times can be fierce, eg more than three knots in straits or 1.5 against for days at a time. Fuel was obtained from service A jar of nutmeg and packets of other goodies were a present in Banda. stations because the fuel available at the waterfront from drums and other customs at Sandakan for Gove and not This was very pleasant, covering about sources was easier to source but was clear into Indonesia. We had no time to 50nm a day across the top of Borneo more expensive and of doubtful quality. apply for an Indonesian Cruising Permit but quite close to Philippine waters At each town it was quite an experience (CAIT) or obtain visas. However, with where tensions do exist and pirate to head off with a couple of jerrys a letter of authority from Stuart which incidents are more likely to occur. riding on the back of a small motor bike outlined the reason for the passage and Insurance companies do not like yachts looking for the nearest servo. It was a appointing me as master, we planned a entering the Sulu Sea. The watermaker good way to meet the locals! Once this direct route through Indonesian waters performance was important because initial reconnaissance was successfully with minimum stops claiming a “right I wished to keep just enough water completed, follow-up runs using a bemo of innocent passage” if challenged. on board to get us to each destination (taxi) with all jerrys was easy. While A study of the latest BOM Interactive without having the weight penalties We gave this fisherman supplies Wind forecasts for that area suggested of full tanks. going to more than 100nm from land. light winds until approaching Gove. windward do better if they are light and We departed KK on October 20. Truest Passion was in cruising mode, Our decision not to apply for a CAIT i.e. loaded. At Sandakan we completed helped avoid wasting time in port clearances and final provisioning. clearances. We were never challenged There is always an enormous by authorities to show documentation. amount of debris floating in these During our stops and while getting fuel waters (plastic bags, bottles, I was often asked where I was from. My polystyrene, branches, wood etc) but response of “Australia” resulted in big logs are a big issue. In Borneo heavy grins and replies of “good country” etc. rains in the upper reaches of the numerous large rivers cause flooding Into the grove and the logs float out to become During the first few days out of KK we hazards for yachts. We maintained settled very comfortably into Truest a log watch at all times although the Passion, proved its systems and enjoyed frequency of sightings decreased the one another’s company and the scenery. further we were from Borneo. Near

52 November 2011 practical: bluewater cruising

“It occurred to me that by moving quickly (eg planning WITH THE BENEFIT on motor-sailing with few stops) via a more direct track OF HINDSIGHT to Gove (rather than north of PNG where our colleagues The following generalisations sum were having such a rough passage) we could beat the up my findings for these passages. cyclone season which was forecast to be bad” 1. Be prepared to motor I do not believe it is possible to sail without motoring through Indonesia on that route at that time because the winds are just too light. The Gulf this was occurring some of the crew Pirates and other hazards and the north Queensland coast went to the fresh markets for vegetables We were not concerned about pirates are a different case. The alternative and other supplies which are plentiful although one afternoon we were route over the top of PNG which was and cheap. The only ATMs after unexpectedly approached from so bad in 2010 may be suitable in Sandakan were in Bitung (NE tip of the stern by three small motorised other years, but there are sufficient ), and then it was only one bank outrigger canoes when we were other factors which would cause that would work with a Cirrus card and between Indonesia and the Philippines us to avoid PNG — fuel can hard to there were withdrawal limits. So lots of and more than 100nm from any land. find, security concerns, currents, visits to that ATM were needed. Although initially surprised, we waved, wind direction etc. and we thought they would like a few Easy and comfortable provisions, so we indicated they should 2. Conditions in the Motor-sailing through Indonesian motor along side (we were doing seven Gulf change in summer waters at this time of the year was knots). We passed over water bottles, Many cruisers seem concerned easy and comfortable. Light winds soft drink cans and some biscuits. about crossing the Gulf, perhaps up to 10 knots ensure low seas and They kindly offered a modest tuna in because of their experiences our route was entirely in open waters return, but we declined because this heading the other direction in the until nearing destinations or passing was their livelihood, and we could winter months when winds are through a wide strait. Skies were catch our own anyway. We still do not strong and big seas are common. generally clear or with high overcast know if they were operating from a At this time of the year a reasonable but most nights resulted in local squalls mother ship (none in sight) or this was weather pattern can be expected to which lasted about 30 minutes and then their normal fishing area, but we were allow a four-day crossing sailing all cleared with standard conditions slowly impressed because in either case they or most of the way. You may have returning. Maximum wind strength had no navigation aids, no shelter, no to wait in Gove for a week. More encountered in these squalls was 30 radios and were in a small open boat favourable winds occur later in knots. Our best sailing configuration using a small motor in open seas — December or January but the risk was a code zero, genoa and full main amazing seamen. After the transfer, a of cyclones increases. with the windward motor (Gori photograph and a grin they turned 180 overdrive props) at 2200 rpm. With degrees and roared off. We hooked a 3. The trap of diverting to Darwin a beam wind of a 5-8 knots we easily large tuna 30 minutes later. For yachts starting from exceeded seven knots of hull speed. Our only other encounter with local and retracing the rally route back boats at sea involved an unnoticed via and , there is a motorised fishing canoe crossing our Metal buoy moored in 4000m depth temptation to divert into Darwin more than 100nm from Sandakan. stern rather closely on the first day out either from Kupang or Saumlaki from Malaysia. To my surprise (which because the wind angle and currents quickly turned to alarm) the trailing are likely to favour that entry port. lure attached to a 200lb-breaking-strain But then you have to sail from line took off with the big reel peeling Darwin to Gove at that time of off line at a terrific rate. I initially tried the year which is still challenging unsuccessfully to signal the fisherman and in most cases will still require then yelled for a knife to cut the line. motoring for all or most of the way Fortunately the line was cut before unless you wish to do lots of tacking. the end was reached when I feared the Day-hopping is slow because of the big game reel would have been ripped location of some of the anchorages off the yacht. As I say, Stuart does not and you still have to tackle the Gulf. do things by half with that 200lb line In October 2006 I sailed This Way Up to ensure he does not lose a fish! A back from Darwin and sailed all the few seconds later the fisherman (now way 20 days close-hauled to Dunk hundreds of metres astern) was noticed Island (but that is another story). to be stopped and removing some very

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the rules for Frustration. Happy hour at dusk was, as always, a high point. Closer to Australia our replacement trailing fishing lure provided some good results. With large forward- opening hatches the air flow made conditions pleasant except when a gust blew the cards off the table! Sleeping in the forward cabins was comfortable in the low seas. Night watches were three hours for the men and two hours for the ladies although if a squall was near, extra hands stayed on deck. We generally covered about 150+ nm per Dave and Pattie departing after the seven-week passage. day so a 400nm leg involved three nights at sea. strong line from round his outboard platforms although these were closer We used HF sailmail for propeller — sorry about that! inshore (within 10nm of the coast) correspondence with Stuart, friends, Another even less pleasant revelation which were made of bamboo poles customs, position reporting and was the appearance of a large metal secured across 200-litre plastic drums. downloading GRIBS or a weather FAX. moored buoy in open seas northwest of They often had local fishing boats GRIB files were reasonably accurate, Sulawesi on our first day out. We were operating nearby. especially if the arrows showed in depths exceeding four kilometres. The other major challenge apart consistency of direction over a large That’s right — four kilometres! The first from the night squalls was the current. area. Wind speeds were less reliable. one was just an unusual black shape In straits, we encountered strong The weather patterns over Australia on the horizon and then another much currents of up to three knots. We were ideal for the trip across the closer to us which we could photograph. were fortunate to have the current Arafura Sea and Gulf of Carpentaria. It was a pointed metal drum about two with us on most occasions, but we There was no high in the bight to metres long and was tethered in very had no way of predicting them in the generate the SE trades for weeks — deep waters and making waves because areas we were travelling. There are most unusual. We did not get any the current here was 1.5 knots against also large circulating currents of up significant SE trades until we passed us. We saw a trawler moored to one to two knots in these seas. We found Cape York and south bound to Margaret later in the voyage. Who paid for and you could be against these sea currents Bay. Because of the good conditions installed them is a mystery but our aim for days on end. and our fuel capacity we did not stop at was to miss them. Running over one in Ambon (it is up an inlet and reportedly a catamaran was not a good outcome. Daily routine not a very attractive anchorage) and Night sailing watches took on another The daily routine soon established although we stopped for three days at major responsibility — continuous itself. Sailing conditions change very Banda we again did not refuel. radar watch. Fortunately these buoys slowly in the tropics so attention to sails did show at 0.5nm on our radar. We is infrequent and with light winds we Keep going if the going is good subsequently met one of our passage- motored all the time, changing engines Our sailing plan was simple: if the making colleagues back in Mooloolaba every 12 hours — just one benefit of conditions were sailable we kept going. who had scraped his hull on one a catamaran. The days passed with This was primarily a passage-making during his trip earlier that year. In all activities such as reading, cards or trip because we knew that the insurance we saw more than six, but we suspect sudoku, talking, sleeping, making water, company was keen to have us south of that there are many more out there. emails and breadmaking. Yes, the ladies Cape York by December 1. We would We still wonder what is at the bottom played hundreds of games of cards, only stop for fuel or if the weather of that four-kilometre nylon mooring teaching each other several varieties conditions were unacceptable, i.e. if line! We also saw many moored fishing of Patience, and we received by email the winds were more than 20-25 knots

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“We were not concerned about pirates although one afternoon we were unexpectedly approached from the stern by three small motorised outrigger canoes when we were between Indonesia and the Philippines and more than 100nm from any land”

and with a poor forecast. Although we stopped for a total of 31 nights out of the seven-week trip, many of these were while we were day-hopping round the tip of Borneo or late-night entries into an anchorage because of bad weather. If the day hops were removed along with the refuelling stops, the passage looks more like a continuous sailathon. The most interesting anchorage was in the Banda Island group where we spent three nights. It is a treasure trove of history covering the spice trade era and the attempts by the Portuguese, Dutch and British to control this initially extremely rich commodity. Today Banda is a delightful but little- A fast run through the Hole in visited tourist destination with many the Wall approaching Gove. Fishing in North Queensland waters interesting Dutch forts and ruins. is much better than Indonesia. I recommend yachts transiting Down the coast this area plan a few days in Banda The passage down the Queensland and Judy. Wal had just sailed on one including a meal at the Mutiara Guest coast was as usual a mixed one. of the yachts which returned via PNG House. Rizal Bahlawan (Abba to us) A persistent high-level trough hovering and endured those difficult conditions. who owns this guest house is a great along the east coast resulted in At 2pm we departed for Kingfisher in guide and source of information. difficult conditions with winds fine conditions only to encounter yet A service station is supposed to be turning against us in the afternoon another severe weather pattern for most established there this year — otherwise and evening and seas building despite of the afternoon and evening across drum fuel only is available. a pressure gradient which should Hervey Bay. Thereafter, conditions With the good weather continuing, have given us easterly winds. Each improved such that we required no the stop in Gove was just 28 hours day started well but each evening motor on the last day to hold 7-8 knots during which we cleared customs, the situation became uncomfortable on a broadreach into Mooloolaba — provisioned, refuelled, did a double and we can all confirm that sleep is marvellous conditions. engine oil change, fitted a new impossible in the forward cabins of We handed over Truest Passion navigation light, sewed a cringle on a catamaran going to windward in to Stuart and Nanette at his berth the mainsail and filled gas bottles. The anything more than a one-metre sea after a great adventure, thanks to the Gove Yacht Club has lost some of its (remember we were well loaded). We support of Paul and Judy over the last appeal and character and a one-way anchored for three days at Flinders seven weeks. taxi trip to town is now $30. We caught Island waiting for strong winds to pass We intend to bring our yacht This the afternoon outgoing tide, crossed and sought anchorage on several nights Way Up back via the route described in the Gulf of Carpentaria and arrived at down the Queensland coast when this article starting a little earlier but the entrance to Endeavour Strait (near adverse conditions eventuated. still passing Cape York about the end of Seisia) two days later. This was my Our 1am arrival at Bundaberg November or early December. sixthh rounding of Cape York, so these was notable for the bad conditions waters were familiar and allowed us which again developed that evening David and Pattie Bowden to make maximum progress knowing plus having to negotiate a tug and what conditions we could get. I think attached barge moored in the channel David and Pattie have been cruising for 11 years aboard we were very lucky with the conditions entrance. Next day we were met by This Way Up, a Grainger we experienced because a wait for good Wal and Robyn from Annwn who 430 catamaran. weather at Gove should be expected. joined us for a farewell lunch for Paul

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