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2015 Briefing on Indonesian Arts and Culture

2015 Briefing on Indonesian Arts and Culture

BRIEFING ON INDONESIAN ARTS AND CULTURE

Ancient History

World Heritage Site NATIONAL PARK

Rites & Celebrations BAU NYALE

Performing Arts TRADITIONAL DANCES OF

Film & Visual Art JERMAL

Food Culture INDONESIAN RAW FISH

VOL 2 2015 Salam Budaya

elcome to the second edition of nomination list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of our bulletin. In this edition we are Humanity, and the sailing ship that is on the focusing on ’s marine way to become part of the list of UNESCO World W legacy, places where salt water breeze Heritage Site. We believe that the uniqueness and touches our very skin, where you’ll the craftsmanship of these heirlooms are indeed integral to the world’s culture. how it connects the myriad of that make up Indonesia.find the glory of the old kingdom of Majapahit, and The ’s seafarers can be traced Last but not least, enjoy your day shopping in the traditional floating markets of Lok Baintan Indonesian civilization, its remnants still vivid within and Muara Kuin in , where a unique theback Bau even Nyale before and the Pasola Majapahit celebration, era, the an apex ancient of ancient event upexperience close and awaits personal, those chat eager up tothe start traditional their held in and Sumba that is a kind vendorsadventure while at dawn. touring Experience the market the by lively boat. market of a thanksgiving ceremony for the sea. Continue on with a one-of-a-kind breakfast of Representing Indonesia’s culture in the world stage rare fruits and local delicacies. It’s going to be one is the , which made its way to UNESCO’s unforgettable trip. CULTURE, as a part of a country, BRIEFING ON INDONESIAN ARTS AND CULTURE is a way of life and a legacy. No matter how small the country, at its root is its culture, the basis for its people’s ideas and interactions. It is the thread that unites them. With this project, we are proud to present to the world Indonesian culture. We invite all people PATRON from around the globe to come Anies Rasyid Baswedan Ph.D closer, to discuss anything and VOL 2 Minister of Education and Culture, 2015 Republic of Indonesia everything about Indonesia, from movies to books, from dances to ADVISORS theatres. This small bulletin, as Prof. Kacung Marijan, Ph.D an introduction to our country’s Director General for Culture culture, will hopefully pique your Ministry of Education and Culture, Republic of Indonesia interest and encourage you to seek out more from our local House of Director of Internalization of Values and Indonesian Culture. Cultural Diplomacy Ministry of Education and Culture, Republic of Indonesia

HEAD OF PROJECT N. Syahrifudin Bayu

PROJECT DIRECTOR Lila Zaini

MINISTRY OF EDUCATION & CULTURE, MANAGING EDITOR REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA Bunga D. Kusuma

Directorate of Internalization of Values EDITOR AT LARGE and Cultural Diplomacy Juliana Harsianti Building E, Floor 10th Jl. Jenderal Sudirman Kav. 4–5 COPY EDITOR Senayan, Andra Wisnu

ART DIRECTOR Ronni S. Pamungkas (021) 5731063, (021) 5725035

GRAPHIC DESIGNER A portrait of the Pinisi boat heading into a storm in Raja (021) 5731063, (021) 5725578 Didiek Arifman Stephanie Ampat, Indonesia.

[email protected] CONSULTANT Rafli L. Sato All rights. Reproduction in whole or part http://kebudayaan.kemdikbud.go.id ADMIN & SECRETARY without permission is prohibited. Views and opinions of writers expressed in the journal do Melia Setyani not necessarily reflect those of the editorial board unless expressly stated.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 1 THIS EDITION

4 FAST FACT INDONESIA Fun Fact Indonesia

7 INDONESIAN PHRASES

8 INDONESIA CULTURAL HOUSE

20

20

Early Modern History THE PINISI TRADITION The Seafaring Pinisi

12 26

Ancient History World Heritage Site TROWULAN KOMODO The Heart of Majapahit A Blast From the Past

2 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION TABLE OF CONTENT

66 Architecture PENYENGAT ISLAND

70 Film & Visual Art JERMAL

74 Film & Visual Art RADEN SALEH

80 People 34 GESANG 84 Food Culture 34 RAW FISH AT ITS BEST Living Culture & Community THE FLOATING MARKET OF MUARA KUIN & LOK BAINTAN

42 50 LIVING CULTURE & RITES & CELEBRATIONS COMMUNITY Bau Nyale & Pasola House Building & Boat- building Ceremony 54 RITES & CELEBRATIONS Tabot & Ceremony

88 Cultural Spots 58

Performing Arts BALINESE DANCE A Pathaway to Serve God

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 3 FAST FACT INDONESIA

THE ISLANDS Indonesia is the largest in the world. It houses 1.9 square kilometres of landmass within 17,000 tropical islands, big and small, many of which are uninhabited and even unnamed. The major islands are , Kalimantan, , and , with the island of Bali being, arguably, the most famous.

THE Adventurous travellers and familiar with the term “Ring of historyFire”. It aficionadosrefers to a group are surely of active belt. Tectonic shifts caused by volcanoesthe eruption that of linethese up volcanoes the Pacific accounts for around 90% of the world’s earthquakes. Some of the most notable eruptions within this horseshoe-shaped area have led to a number of historic TIME ZONES events for Indonesia – from Lake Indonesia’s area spans from Sabang – the western tip of the Toba’s colossal eruption 70,000 archipelago located in the island of Sumatra – to Merauke, the years ago, which gave birth to Samosir Island; , eastern tip in the island of Papua. Some 8,514 kilometres-long which erupted in 1815 and from border to border, Indonesia is divided into three time zones. caused widespread crop failure The island of Sumatra, Java, and half of Kalimantan are in the in Europe and the Americas; to Western Indonesian Standard Time (GMT +7.00). The other half of the eruption of Krakatau that Kalimantan, Bali, Nusa Tenggara and Sulawesi abide by the Central obliterated three volcanic peaks and unleashed huge Indonesian Standard Time (GMT +8.00). The island of Maluku and in 1883. Papua fall under the Eastern Indonesian Standard Time (GMT +9.00).

4 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION THE NAME The name “Indonesia” is derived from the Greek word nesos, which means “island”, and Indus, which means “Indian”. English ethnologist George Windsor Earl proposed the terms Indunesia or Malayunesia, while his student James Richardson Logan preferred the term Indonesia as it is synonymous with the word “the Indian Archipelago”. During the colonial era, Dutch academics were reluctant to use that name, opting LANGUAGE instead to use the name “the ”. It was reverted Indonesia’s cultural diversity results in around back to Indonesia by nationalists in the early 1900’s. 600 indigenous languages. Young nationalists

from Bahasa Malay, which ended up being adopteddeveloped as a a new, national unified language language called modified Bahasa Indonesia in 1928. Most Indonesians continue to speak using their indigenous language daily, while Bahasa Indonesia is used as a secondary basis, mainly for school and businesses. Therefore, most Indonesians are bilingual. English is also taught at schools, but mostly in major cities.

THE RESIDENTS Indonesia has a massive population of over 250 million people, making it the fourth most populous country in the world, right after

Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi and Papua, Java is the most populous withChina, over India 140 and million the US. people Among living the infive the major island. islands It is also of Sumatra, home to the country’s capital of Jakarta. Being the centre of government and businesses, Jakarta is the most populous city in the country with a population reaching up to 10 million people, and counting.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 5 FAST FACT INDONESIA

ETHNICITY There’s a reason why Indonesia is so culturally rich. Its more than 250 million people originated from around 300 ethnic groups, each with their own customs, traditions and dialects. One of the reasons for this diversity is Indonesia’s geographical position. Situated between two continents and two , around 6,000 out of its 17,000 islands are inhabited. The relatively isolated ethnic groups are thus better facilitated to preserve their unique

nation’s melting pot. Additionally, each ethnic group also boasts different physical attributes. Peoplecultures from and thetraditions. Sumatra Malay, and Kalimantan Arab and European have deep influence roots in fromthe Malay traders culture, further possessing enrich the fair skin, slanted eyes and pronounced jaws. Javanese are usually brown skinned and have delicate features, while people from the east are dark skinned and have curly hair.

MOTTO AND IDEOLOGY Despite the cultural and religious differences among its citizens, Indonesia is built on tolerance and unity, and it relies on those core values to RELIGION maintain peace within the country. After declaring Religion, particularly Islam, plays an its independence on August 17, 1945, Indonesia important role in Indonesian society. adopted the motto , which is loosely translated to Unity in Diversity. This religions: Islam, Protestant, Catholic, national motto is reinforced by its national BuddhistThe government and Hindu. recognises Around five 87 per ideology of , and it is the platform of cent of the population embrace Islam, which all Indonesian laws are based on. or around 12 per cent of the world’s Muslim population. It is thus often confused as the largest Muslim country in the world, while the fact is it’s the country with the largest Muslim population in the world. COFFEE Indonesia is no stranger to coffee enthusiasts. It is the third largest coffee producer and exporter in the world, right behind neighbouring and the undisputed champion Brazil. According to a 2013 International NATURAL RESOURCES Coffee Organization’s report, Indonesia is rich in natural resources. Its tropical Indonesia’s total coffee production has led to Indonesia’s fame as the home of exceeds 675,000 tons per year, with many indigenous spices. This particular resource was Robusta being the dominant bean. The a source of contentions among colonists for centuries, history of coffee in Indonesia dates back and the country itself has been colonised by various to the Dutch colonial era. 1696 saw European countries, including the Portuguese, the English and, most prominently, the Dutch. Furthermore, Indonesia is also one of the largest oil producers in the Javathe first to Europe shipment by theof coffee Dutch seeds, East Indies and world. Natural oil has been discovered since the Dutch Company.1711 saw theIn the first mid export 1700’s, of beans the Dutch from East Indies expanded coffee growing to international oil industry. Sumatra, Bali, Sulawesi and Timor. colonial era. Indonesia remains a significant player in the

6 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION INDONESIAN PHRASES

BASICS TRAVEL SHOP Communicating with locals Whenever language barriers Getting special prices and is a common problem for pose an issue, visiting a new discounts at the local markets is travellers. Here are some place ultimately becomes an very possible, though it all boils basic phrases Indonesians inane task. Here are some down to how well you haggle with phrases that will help you the merchants. Here are some use to start a conversation. settle in and get through phrases to tip the scales to the day. your favour. 1. Good morning / Selamat pagi 1. Where can I get a taxi 1. Traditional market / 2. Good afternoon/ around here? / Pasar tradisional Selamat siang Di mana saya bisa 2. Can I try this one? / 3. Good evening/night mendapatkan taksi di Boleh coba yang ini? / Selamat malam sekitar sini? 3. I’m interested / 4. How are you? / 2. Can you take me to ____? / Saya tertarik Apa kabar? Bisakah Anda mengantar 4. How much does it cost? /

5. My name is ______/ saya ke ____? Berapa harganya? 3. Where can I rent a car? / 5. Do you take credit cards? /

Nama saya ______Di mana saya bisa Bisa bayar dengan kartu 6. Can you help me? / menyewa mobil? kredit? Bisakah Anda membantu 4. Where can I rent a 6. It’s too expensive / saya? motorcycle? / Terlalu mahal 7. I don’t speak Indonesian Di mana saya bisa 7. It’s quite cheap / very well / menyewa sepeda motor? Cukup murah Bahasa Indonesia saya 5. Where is the nearest 8. Lower the price please/ kurang bagus hotel? / Mohon turunkan

8. Do you speak English? / Di mana hotel terdekat? harganya 6. I’d like to check-in / 9. Do you have it in another Apakah Anda bisa Saya mau check-in colour? / berbahasa Inggris? 7. Do you have a room Apakah tersedia dalam 9. Speak slowly, please / available? / warna yang berbeda? Mohon bicara pelan- Apakah ada kamar yang 10. Can you deliver this to my pelan masih kosong? country? / 10. Thank you / 8. Is there a restroom Bisakah Anda mengirimkan Terima kasih around here? / barang ini ke negara saya? 11. You’re welcome / Apakah ada toilet di 11. How much is the delivery cost? /

sekitar sini? Berapa ongkos kirimnya? -sama 9. How far is it? / 12. I’m sorry / Sejauh apa dari sini? Mohon maaf 10. Religious offerings / 13. Excuse me / Sesajen Permisi 11. Beware of monkeys 14. Be careful / Hati-hati dengan monyet Hati-hati

EAT AND DRINK 3. Delicious / 8. Check, please / Finding good food is essential Enak Minta bon in elevating any travel 4. Can I see the menu? / 9. Can I order some experience, irregardless of Bisa lihat menunya? drinks? / whether you’re ascribe to 5. Can you take my order? / Bisa pesan minuman? foodism or not. Here are some Bisa pesan makanan? 10. Do you have any alcoholic phrases you can use to spoil 6. Which one would you drinks? / your taste buds during your recommend? / Apakah Anda menyediakan journey. Menu apa yang Anda minuman beralkohol? sarankan?

7. What’s the house 1. I’m hungry / specialty? / Saya lapar Apa menu andalan 2. I’m full / restoran ini? Saya kenyang

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 7 INDONESIA CULTURAL HOUSE Manamana / Shutterstock.com

8 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION INTRODUCING THE WONDERFUL INDONESIA

INDONESIA’S MINISTRY OF EDUCATION AND CULTURE PROUDLY PRESENT THE INDONESIA CULTURAL HOUSE - A PROJECT THAT WILL BRING THE COUNTRY’S MANY WONDERFUL CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS TO GLOBAL RECOGNITION.

ultural diplomacy is a C means of exerting political one country’s culture, values and ideas.influence It is thus by drawing distinct upon from hard power, which uses military muscle to reinforce diplomatic ventures. Another goal of cultural diplomacy is to improve the image of Indonesia by introducing Indonesia’s rich cultural resources to the world, while at the same time strengthening Indonesian cultural resources as an integral part of global civilization We now live in an era of a new world order in which most countries are becoming more and more border-less. It is here that culture takes its position Indonesia is situated on the equator as an important element within the and its territory extends all the way realms of international relations and from Sabang to Merauke, encompassing diplomacy. Its ultimate goal: to build some 1.9 million square kilometres a global community and to strengthen along the way. Indonesia, moreover, international relations and regional boasts 17,000 odd islands, as well networks. as over 500 distinct ethnic groups It takes massive effort to preserve speaking some 742 dialects. Each of Indonesia’s rich diversity and vast the country’s tribes and ethnicities has cultural legacies. It is with that basis that Indonesia’s Ministry of Education and these make up Indonesia’s priceless and Culture and Indonesia’s Ministry culturalits own specificinheritance. cultures Despite and thistraditions, huge of Foreign Affair have joined together diversity, the country remains united by in developing the Indonesia Cultural its national motto, “Bhinneka Tunggal House program. Ika”, or “Unity in Diversity”.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 9 INDONESIA CULTURAL HOUSE

Despite this huge diversity, the country remains united by its national motto, Having established Indonesia’s “Bhinneka Tunggal Ika”, or cultural diversity as an important building block of our ever-evolving “Unity in Diversity”. global civilization, Indonesia’s Ministry of Education and Culture will develop Indonesia Cultural House in several strategic locations around the world. Indonesia Cultural House will introduce the country’s many wonderful customs and traditions to people living all over Various elements of Indonesia’s the globe. With this objective in mind, it cultural heritage have already been is important for the project to develop recognised as parts of our wider activities aimed at the dissemination world heritage by UNESCO (the United and proliferation of Indonesian culture, which, at its unveiling, will be laid Cultural Organization). These elements open to the general public in various includeNations theEducational, country’s Scientifictraditional and place around the world. In these puppet shows, textiles, the saman enriching spaces, people can learn dance, swords, the and about Indonesia’s culture, history, arts the . Meanwhile, in terms of and social development, all packaged in Indonesia’s more tangible cultural an all-encompassing national journey. heritage, there are the temples of More than just a passive spectacle and , as well as though, visitors to the centres and the early-man site in Central people interested in Indonesia will also Java. These are crucial groundwork in have the opportunity to learn language, Indonesia’s goal of becoming a major music and traditional dances directly player on the world stage. from Indonesian experts in their respective expertise. With its aim of galvanising appreciation for Indonesia in all of its fascinating cultural wealth, Indonesia Cultural House will be focusing on several areas. There will be exhibitions of work, both classical and contemporary. Dances and music are also on the agenda. Expect plenty of the country’s traditional puppet shows, as well as screenings of Indonesian movies, traditional martial- arts demonstrations, exhibitions of traditional weaponry such as the kris, literary readings, last but not least, a cavalcade of Indonesian culinary bazaars.

10 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION What’s new on INDONESIA CULTURAL HOUSE AROUND THE WORLD IN 2015

Indonesia Cultural House in Australia 1. Indonesia Movie Screening 17th August in Indonesian Embassy and Indonesia Consular 2. Traditional Puppet Screening 9th August in Indonesia Embassy 3. Indo-Oz in Brisbane 8th August 2015 4. Indonesia Festival in Canberra 8th October 2015 5. Indofest in Adelaide September/October 2015 In addition, basic knowledge on the country’s rich cultural heritage will also Indonesia Cultural House in be available in the form of classes in Netherlands order to allow visitors to play a much 1. Rise of Indonesian Architecture more active part in their relationship with Indonesia. In its role as an Rotterdam, September 2015 Indonesian cultural-learning centre, the 2. Indonesia Bazaar Indonesian Cultural House will offer Den Haag, 5th-7th September 2015 classes in traditional dances, musical 3. Indonesia Cultural Night instruments such as the and Den Haag, October 2015 kulintang, batik-making sessions, 4. Leine Robana instruction, and Amsterdam, December 2015 even classes in cooking traditional food. Indonesia Cultural House is being Indonesia Cultural House in Japan developed as a joint effort between the 1. Indonesia Culinary Workshop Ministry of Culture and Education of Tokyo, August 2015 Indonesia and Ministry of Foreign Affair 2. Rampak Kendang and Debus and preparations have been underway since 2012. In the near future, the Workshop Tokyo, September 2015 project is expected to bear fruits in the ten countries of the , France, Germany, the Netherlands, Indonesia Cultural House in Turkey Turkey, Australia, Japan, East Timor, 1. Indonesia Culinary Week and . September 2015 Currently, the Indonesia Cultural 2. Endonezya Taritim House has already been built in East August and September 2015 Timor, and soon will also be gracing Australia and the Netherlands.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 11 ANCIENT HISTORY

Trowulan The Heart of Majapahit

– BY RIANA KESUMASARI –

12 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 13 ANCIENT HISTORY – TROWULAN

f we look back into the IN BETWEEN MANUSCRIPT , we AND I can ascertain that the Negarakertagama, a manuscript written kingdom of Majapahit is by Mpu Prapanca, reveals a number of details of what Majapahit was like as to how Indonesia is now shaped in its heyday. According to this old asindeed a nation. one ofJust the imagine biggest the influences ancient manuscript, the settlement’s palace was scattered kingdoms amongst surrounded by tall, red brick wall and the sprawling islands within the that the main gate, which was a massive archipelago. One cannot help but be entrance made of iron ornate, was in awe of how all of that became what located at the north end of the building. is known as Indonesia today. We have On the courtyard of the north Majapahit, the largest and strongest gate were houses of worship. A amongst these kingdoms, to thank for pool surrounds the west side of the that. Even the Kingdom of Champa courtyard and it’s not uncommon to see and China were well-acquainted with people taking their baths in the water the power held by Majapahit here. At the south end were doors that back then. led to the building that houses the royal And yet as we gleamed further family’s ranks of maids, while the other into details; how the kingdom was bale-bale formerly a mere woodland area, that doubles as a waiting area for those whoside boastswanted a toyard see filled the king. with Meanwhile, the Majapahit village, and how, with Sebalah Royal Palace – a building hishow tenacity, Raden Wijaya this man first who fashion would at with red brick, decorated with carved later be crowned as Kertarajasa wooden pillars and ornate clay – can be Jayawardhana, successfully found at the east ward. transformed that little village into The manuscript revealed more than one of the most powerful and well- just the palace’s layout. Another poem respected kingdoms in the history of within the manuscript also depicts its the nation; it’s confounding how little housing situation, particularly that of we really know about Majapahit. the capital. It was described as “a place Having said that, it’s of settlement that can be addressed understandable why many archaeologists are so determined kingdom. In this story, we’ll focus onto find where anything the heart related of the to kingdom the used to be located. Our starting point is the ancient manuscript of Negarakertagama and a number of other artefacts, all of which points to a place known as Trowulan.

Kedaton Temple Considered to be the most mysterious temple in Trowulan, since no archaeologist has been able to assert the original form of the site.

14 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION without having to go through the sites within the excavation project. Waringin Lawang Some are still in good condition, while The grand split gate which is believed to be the entrance to by reliefs found in the temples in others are struggling to stay intact. the residence of Majapahit’s Trowulan,rice fields”. which This is portrays further supporteda city in a One of the most remarkable most popular prime minister, ward surrounded by a wall – a unique discoveries in the area is a massive, Gajah Mada. characteristic among coastal ancient pond called Segaran. It’s royal cities. 6.5-hectare in size and is surrounded as a water reservoir and that, back in An archaeological excavation by a tiered brick wall 1.6-metre high the 14th century, was made to address carried out a few years ago showed and 2.8-metre deep. It is said that the Trowulan as an area of approximately pond was discovered by Maclain Pont, The discovery of this pool, as well as 10,000 hectares. There have been a Dutch architect and archaeologist theand discovery manage flood of clay-made water in Trowulan.water pipes many discoveries in the area. Some are famous for his thesis on Javanese and around the area, has led to theories that artefacts, while others are in the form western architecture. Majapahit was already equipped with of manmade constructs. Numerous This pool is said to serve a number a well-constructed irrigation system temples have been found in various of purposes. It was supposedly used at the time.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 15 MAP TROWULAN

Candi Genthong 1

Brahu Temple

Candi Genthong 2 Wringin Lawang Split Gate to Surabaya Chinese Cemetery

Candi Putri

Trowulan Water Structure Archaeological Site Long Grave ancient canal

Champa Princess Tomb

Siti Inggil Trowulan Museum

Minak Jingga Temple

Segaran Pool ancient canal

Water Pipe Segaran Site ancient canal

Pendopo Agung

Kubur Panggung Bajang Ratu Nglinguk Gate ancient canal

to Candi Kedaton Sentonorojo

Candi Tikus Bathing Place

ancient canal

Troloyo Cemetery

ancient canal

ancient canal

16 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION LAND OF TEMPLES AND CEMETERIES There are approximately eight temples that have been found

Candi Genthong 1 in Trowulan. The temples are

Brahu Temple found standing somewhat far apart from each other and do not Candi Genthong 2 Wringin Lawang seem to form from a single site. Split Gate to Surabaya It is strongly believed that some Chinese Cemetery temples, such as the Bajangratu Temple, were made as a symbol of the coronation of the king. Candi Putri Bajangratu, in particular, is locally Trowulan Water Structure believed to be the symbolic site of Archaeological the coronation of King Jayanegara, Site Long Grave ancient canal who was crowned when he still a child. No one has been able to Champa Princess Tikus Temple Tomb assert the exact function of the Two temples were found relatively Earned the name from the temples. Indeed, there are many well preserved. One is the Brahu fact that the site used to be Temple located in Bejijong village. It inhabited by rats. Siti Inggil who believe that these temples are Trowulan the gates of Majapahit Kingdom. appears to be a single part of a cluster Museum of temples surrounding the Trowulan 15-metre long and 22.5-metre wide.

Minak Jingga area. According to documents now Brahu Temple is also known as the Temple being kept in the Trowulan Museum, tallest temple in .

Segaran Pool ancient canal Brahu was made of bricks and was The second is the Tikus Temple – Water Pipe Segaran Site ancient canal fashioned, back in the 14th century the name of which was derived from before the restoration, after Buddhist- the fact that, before its discovery, style design. It was 25.7-metre tall, the site was often inhabited by rats. Archaeologists say that the temple Pendopo Agung was likely used by the royal family Kubur Panggung Bajang Ratu to store its water supply and as a Nglinguk Gate bathing pond, though there are also ancient canal those who argued that it was more of to Yogyakarta Candi Kedaton a communal storage site used by the Sentonorojo general populace of Trowulan.

Candi Tikus found in the area Trowulan: the tomb Bathing Place of PrincessThere is Campa.another It significant is even referred site directly in the Negarakertagama ancient canal the stories of Bhre Kertabumi and Troloyo Kingmanuscript, Brawijaya, specifically kings of regardingMajapahit Cemetery who were married to the daughters ancient canal of Campa. The marriage is a political one and the manuscript illustrates how the marriage would secure

ancient canal economic and trade relations Bajang Ratu between Majapahit and Campa. Believed to be the Indeed, the existence of the tomb is symbolic site of the coronation of King proof that the ancient manuscript is Jayanegara. not a manmade fabrication.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 17 ANCIENT HISTORY – TROWULAN

We can ascertain that the kingdom of Majapahit is indeed one of the biggest influences as to how Indonesia is now shaped as a nation. Reliefs crafted on one of the temples in Trowulan.

VARIOUS ARTEFACTS as well as tools used to work on the commonly found natural resource AND HANDICRAFTS gold, such as small cups of clay used in Java and were thus most likely a We cannot leave the topic of to melt gold. These cups would later result of trade. Majapahit without the mention be used to print the gold using a wax And then there are the pottery of ancient artefacts found in the method. and terracotta artefacts. Objects archaeological sites of Trowulan. There are also clay containers found from the era are shaped Commonly made of clay, wood, iron used to melt . Pakis Village, delicately yet intricate and in and gold, these artefacts are found which is located in the south diverse forms, which indicates scattered in various parts of the site. end of the site, is rich with these that the craft of terracotta was an The discovery of gold, in the form of discoveries. Most of the bronze important profession at the time. coin or craft, showed that there were were apparently used to print Archaeologists have discovered goldsmiths in Majapahit at the time. money in the form of large coins or terracotta crafts with unique Java has no gold reserves, which talismans in stone moulds. Other shape – some depicting gods, means that the gold found here was metal items include lights ornate animals and buildings, while other imported from Sumatra, Kalimantan bronze, water containers, bells, are slabs that portray the state and Sulawesi – an important objects used in religious ceremonies, of nature. These crafts were so indication of thriving trade. as well as musical instruments. In intricate that antique collectors In fact, there was a village in Java and Bali, discoveries have been were said to be hunting them Trowulan called Kemasan, the name made on similar items, but made at the black market. These days of which is perhaps derived from the of wood. Another sign of a lively though, such objects fall under the word emas or “gold”. Aside from gold, trade conditions is the discovery of protection and preservation of the Trowulan also has caches of jewelry, iron ores, which, like gold, is not a Majapahit Museum.

18 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION FAST FACT

• Trowulan site has been suggested as the site of the eponymous capital city of the Majapahit Kingdom, which is described by Mpu Prapanca in the 14th-century poem Nagarakertagama and in a 15th-century Chinese source. It was razed due to the invasion of Girindrawardhana to defeat Kertabhumi in 1478. After this event, Majapahit’s capital moved to Daha.

• The ancient city ruins at Trowulan had been discovered by the . • Excavations in and around Trowulan have shown that parts of the old settlement still lie buried under several metres of mud and volcanic debris, a result of the frequent eruptions of nearby Mount Kelud, as well as frequent flooding of the Brantas River.

Bajang Ratu is located a mere 0.7 kilometres away from Tikus Temple.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 19 EARLY MODERN HISTORY

The Pinisi Tradition The Seafaring Pinisi A story about Indonesia’s seaworthy ancestral past

– BY YULITA RANGKUTI –

20 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION

EARLY MODERN HISTORY – THE PINISI TRADITION

here is a reason why the song “Nenek Moyangku The first“ pinisi was T Seorang Pelaut” – literally made in the 14th century, translated as “My Ancestors Are Sailors” – is a popular folksong. though the boat had a Indonesia is an archipelago, so it stands different name at the time. to reason that our ancestors are expert The designer is Prince seafarers. The old wooden ships – still standing strong after months of Sawerigading, the crown journeying the sea – are testament to prince of Luwu Kingdom. their skills as excellent navigators. Tribesmen from Sulawesi are especially regarded for their sailing and boat-making skills. These wooden ships were the main mode of transportation for many people in the globe and ship builders are highly prized for their A SULAWESI PRIMA” DONNA craft as they play a major role in the The Indonesian prima donna of ships is economic and political development of the pinisi. It was designed and produced any nation. Seafaring nations such as en masse hundreds of years ago by boat England and Spain are also famous for makers from Bulukumba or , their ships. two tribes that are well-known as ship builders whose talents have been Pinisi boat, island, employed by sailors from many regions Indonesia in the country.

22 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION The wooden boat of Pinisi sailing the sea.

It’s amazing to consider that the boat is completely made of wood. There is no modern or magical technology keeping the boat intact. The wood boards themselves are stuck together without nails to prevent cracks from permeating during the trip. The average pinisis are between 15 and 40 metres long and they boast two masts that are 35 metres tall, as well as seven fore- and-aft sails. These sails give the boat unparalleled speed among other boats in the region at the time. According to a number of ancient made in the 14th century, though the boatmanuscripts, had a different the first name pinisi at was the time. The designer is Prince Sawerigading, the crown prince of Luwu Kingdom. It was used to sail to China to propose to a Chinese Princess named We Cudai. The boat carried him safely to China, where Princess We Cudai would agree to be his betrothed. A SPECIAL called a sawi – led by a chief craftsman On his journey back to Luwu, his BOAT-MAKING RITUAL called a punggawa. All the core boat was struck by a massive wave The pinisi was originally constructed elements of the ship are made of that tore his ship into three, each as a transporter of goods, and it is wood, particularly teak, ironwood and marooning to the three villages of thus much smaller than other ships the teak. As mentioned Ara, Tanah Lemo and Bira. travelling the at the time. Even earlier, no iron nails are used in the The people of the three villages so, the effectiveness of its design has making of the pinisi. The boards are ended up putting the boat back led to continued production up until nailed together using wood leftover together. The people of Ara repaired today. An area that, until today, is still from the body-making process. The the parts, while the people in Tanah making boats is Tana Beru district in length of building depends on the size Lemo put the parts together. The Bulukumba Regency. The builders of the boat, though a single boat could people of Bira then added the here are steadfast in nurturing the age-old traditions that goes into The materials for the ships are also of putting seven sails on the boat. making a pinisi. handpickedtake from one and to specialtwo years rituals to finish. are Theyfinishing all agreed touches, to includingcall the boat the the idea A pinisi has always been made held in the making of the boat – from Pinisi, which means “sail” in their using simple tools and it is done by its creation to when the time comes to native tongue. no more than 10 craftsmen – usually let the boat go to sea.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 23 Today, Tana Beru and Bira extinction. As technology improves, so Facing those threats, the state has (Bulukumba, ) are the do wanes the interest of the younger to safeguard the traditional technology centres of pinisi making craftsmanship. members of the people of Bulukumba. system in the boatbuilding process And it’s quite amazing to see these Builders are lacking apprentices to pass developed by the custodian of the people at work. There is no book or their skills unto. Another problem is the knowledge and skills – the Bulukumba papers with guidelines on how to lack of wood. The quality of wood in the Regency, South Sulawesi Province. The make the boat. All is done completely area has been on the decline, with mass government is now committed to the by memory. This specialised skills deforestation further exacerbating the implementation of pinisi safeguarding has led Bulukumba regency to given issue. A ship builder would often go to efforts and will cooperate with UNESCO the moniker Butta Panrita Lopi or the forests themselves to pick the wood and other countries to further the cause. “the ground where the pinisi makers because they can’t use just any wood. Meanwhile, Ministry of Education live”. Their boats have sailed as far The wood for the hull, for example, and Culture, together with the local as Vancouver in Canada, as well as must be slightly bent so as not to break. governments and other relevant parties Japan and Madagascar, where they are The new guinea trees supplying this will maintain and strive to improve the displayed in maritime exhibitions. wood are ideal for this purpose but the cultural and supply of the That said, the livelihood of the process to replant the new guinea trees boat raw material by allocating their pinisi builders are under the threat of is very time-consuming. budget, and provide the expertise.

24 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION EARLY MODERN HISTORY – THE PINISI TRADITION

The government is navigation that brought forth a broad now committed to the variety of sophisticated watercraft, ranging from the outriggered boats that implementation of pinisi enabled man to migrate throughout safeguarding efforts and Indian Oceans to the massive ships will cooperate with UNESCO the vast expanses of the Pacific and and other countries to intruders into the . further the cause. encounteredOut of the by two the types first of European pinisi boats – namely the lambo and palari – only the lambo has remained in use. Out of the two, the palari is the smaller sized boat. Furthermore, most of the more modular lambo are now equipped with motors. This national maritime icon has seen use both as a transportation device and A NATIONAL MARITIME ICON a liveaboard vessel. Many pinisi have For both the Indonesian and been decked out with modern facilities. international public, pinisi has become Trips from in , and the epitome of the Archipelago’s many other tourism destinations in indigenous sailing craft. Construction Maluku, continue to employ the pinisi. and deployment of such vessels Indeed, the pinisi may be an old lady, stand in the millennia-long tradition but it remains the prima donna of the of Austronesian boatbuilding and Indonesian seas until today.

The Pinisi has sailed to Vancouver, Canada, as well as Japan and Madagascar.

After hundreds of years, the Pinisi remains the nation’s maritime icon until today.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 25 WORLD HERITAGE SITE

26 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION KOMODO ISLAND A Blast From The Past

A Real Jurassic Park Right Here In Indonesia

– BY MARIA SUSANTI –

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 27 WORLD HERITAGE SITE – KOMODO ISLAND

AN ISLAND OF ITS KIND The (Varanus komodoensis

Van Steyn. The) was islands first todiscovered which they by arethe endemicscientific toworld are inhabited in 1912 by by J.K.H. a population of around 5,700 komodos. It was their fearsome appearance and aggressive behaviour that led to them being called ‘Komodo dragons’. They have also become the subject of the study of evolution due to the fact that they are found nowhere else – not to mention the scenic landscape of the islands, which are rich in craggy hillsides, dry savannah, green vegetation, brilliant white sandy beaches and the cerulean surfaces of its Komodo dragons teven Spielberg, the Director -laden shores. (Varanus komodoensis) of Jurassic Park captured our The island is home to dry and hot is a giant imagination of what would , as characterised by vegetation found on a few islands S found mostly in savannah. This in turn happen to human beings if in Indonesia, including makes it a good habitat for the endemic Komodo Island. dinosaurs were to exist today. The fourth Komodo. Their population are restricted World, is also set to entertain moviegoers to the islands of Komodo (1,700), infilm June. in the But franchise, why wait dubbed till then Jurassic to taste the (1,300), Gili Motang (100), Gili Dasami thrill of looking back into the era of giant (100), and (2,000). It was also lizards. Why not head to Komodo found on the island of Padar but they National Park, where real giant lizards have been hunted to extinction there. roam the earth. The climate in the island is also one One of Indonesia’s most treasured of the driest in Indonesia, with annual national heritages, rainfall estimated to be between a mere is located in a border region between 800mm and 1000mm. The highest daily the provinces of and temperature – 40 degrees Celcius – West Nusa Tenggara. The park consists of occurs during the dry season from three main islands: Komodo, Padar and May to October. Rinca, as well as 26 smaller islands. As whole, the park encompasses a total area of 1,733 square metres, only 603 square metres of which is land. Founded in 1980, this national park is erected in order to protect the Komodo dragon, the world’s largest lizard. In 1991, the national park was declared as UNESCO World Heritage Site and has served as a sanctuary for a number of species, land-based and marine alike.

28 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION Komodo dragon on Rinca Island.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 29 Komodo dragon seen at Another fauna that has made other genera found throughout the one of the beaches of the park their home possess Komodo Island. characteristic similar to the Wallacean zoogeographic region, with ofIndo species. Pacific Notable area, though marine there mammals is a seven notable species of terrestrial includesignificantly the blue larger whale diversity (Balaenoptera in terms mammal, such as the endemic rat musculus) and the sperm whale (Rattus rintjanus) and the crab-eating (Physeter catodon), as well as 10 macaque (Macaca fascicularis), as species of dolphins and well as 72 species of birds, such as ( dugon the lesser sulphur-crested sea turtles. (Cacatua sulphurea), the orange- ) and five species of footed scrub fowl (Megapodius together with the crystal clear sea reinwardt), and the noisy friarbird waterThe and diversity the white of the sandy marine beach flora, (Philemon buceroides). makes the islands a perfect retreat The coral reefs found off the coast for beach activities and diving. One of Komodo are diverse and beautiful of beaches in Komodo Island even because of the clear water, its intense sports pink sand due to the disjointed sunlight and the rapid exchange of coloration from chipped off nutrient-rich water from the deeper and shell. The sea current is also one areas of the archipelago helps nurture of the strongest in Indonesia; divers their growth. The marine fauna must at least be accompanied by one. must be certified and experienced, or and flora are generally similar to 30 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION WORLD HERITAGE SITE – KOMODO ISLAND

ON KOMODOS AND HUMAN 1928, when as many as 30 people were The majority of the people who recorded living in Komodo Village. In live in and around the park are 1930, 250 people have settled Rinca Island. The population has since Manggarai, South Flores and the increased rapidly and, by 1999, there Bajao,fishermen and fromBugis tribes (Sumbawa), from South were 281 families and 1,169 people Sulawesi. The Bajao was a nomadic living on Komodo. Komodo Village is tribe before they settle as a people the most densely populated village in the islands of Sulawesi, Nusa Tenggara and Moluccas. The original of people from Sape, Manggarai and people of Komodo island – the Ata Southwithin Sulawesi. the park following an influx Modo – still live there, but have intermixed with members of other tribes and very little of their original culture and language are left intact. Currently, there are nearly 4,000 people living within the four main settlements within the park; living The diversity of the marine in villages that have existed before flora, together with the the area was declared a national park. Human settlements in the crystal clear sea water islands have been traced to the year and the white sandy beach makes the islands a perfect retreat for beach activities and diving.

The settlement within the park.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 31 WORLD HERITAGE SITE – KOMODO ISLAND

Traditional village in According to the Statistic Bureau people lived in Rinca Island, while Bajawa, Flores. of Indonesia, the number of buildings another main village, Kerora, boasts in Komodo village has also increased a population of 185 people. The total rapidly – from 30 houses in 1958, to population currently living in the park is 194 houses in 1994, and then 270 3,267 people, with 16,816 people living houses in 2000. Papagaran village in the area immediately surrounding is similar in size, with 258 families the park. comprising of a total of 1,078 people. The majority of those who live As of the 2010 census, Komodo village is inhabited by 1,508 people, while elementary school. There is an Papagaran village has 1,262 inhabitants. elementaryin these islands school have located not finished in each of Meanwhile, in 1999, as many as 835 the villages but new students are not recruited each year. Those who do go on to continue to high school would have to A komodo dragon migrate to Labuan Bajo – which in itself seen on Horseshoe Bay, Rinca Island. families there. is rareIndeed, among Labuan the fishermen’s Bajo may be regarded the main vein that connects Komodo Islands to the rest of the world because every vessel heading to Komodo Island departs from this

from the park’s touristic value, with immigrantscity. Labuan fromBajo hasBali, benefited Sape, Manggarai greatly and other regions in Nusa Tenggara settling themselves down and growing the local economy.

32 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION FAST FACT

• Komodo National Park comprises three major islands: Komodo, Rinca and Padar, as well as numerous smaller islands creating a total surface area – marine and land – of 1,817 square kilometres. However, proposed extensions would bring the total surface area up to 2,321 square kilometres. • The fishing village of Kampung Komodo is an hour-long walk south of Loh Liang. It’s a friendly stilted Bugis village that’s full of goats, chickens and children. The inhabitants are said to be descendants of convicts exiled to the island in the 19th century by one of the sultans in Sumbawa. • The Komodo Dragon (Varanus komodoensis) is an endangered species which can only be found in the Komodo National Park. Because of the unique and Arare nature of this animal, the park was then declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986.

HOW TO GET THERE

• There are daily flights from Jakarta to Labuan Bajo, as well as from Denpasar, Bali. Those who crave adventure may take a sailing trip from Lombok on a wooden vessel. The latter makes for an unforgettable escapade before the real adventure begins on Komodo JAKARTA Islands.

P. BANTA P. SERAYA BS

DENPASAR P. KOMODO FLORES

LOMBOK

P. RINCA

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 33 LIVING CULTURE & COMMUNITY

A traditional floating market in Banjarmasin, South Kalimantan.

34 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION THE FLOATING MARKETS OF Muara Kuin and Lok Baintan

A New Way to Haggle and Peddle

– BY BUDI SANTOSA –

ne of joys of being a travelLer is to witness the habits of O locals elsewhere around the world; to see how people outside our own home live their daily lives. The market is thus one of the most revealing places that visitors would want to visit. There is just something very charming about observing people haggling over goods or naturally conversing. It’s

exotic things, and even bigger surprises thealso deeper where weyou’ll go findinto thea market. some of the most In some cities where rivers are extensively as a means of transportation,

There is a quaint, and almost acrobatic qualitya floating to marketthis type is ofoften traditional a common market sight. where traders peddle and transfer their good straight from their boats. and Vietnam are well known for this kind of market. In Indonesia the city of Banjarmasin in South Kalimantan also

most prominent of which are Lok Baintan andboasts Muara a number Kuin. of floating markets, the

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 35 LIVING CULTURE & COMMUNITY : MUARA KUIN & LOK BAINTAN

36 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION SOUTH KALIMANTAN

AN ICON OF BANJARMASIN Banjarmasin has a long history as a Indeed, the market is home not city. Founded on September 24, 1526, only to the buying and selling of goods. the city owes its formation to the rising Traders trade commodities, and number of businesses developing within business deals are brokered regularly its waterways. It is the trade activities in boats. And while the amount of marketable goods continues to decline Kuin, which is located downstream with the advent of more technologically ofbore the the Kuin floating River marketin Banjarmasin, of Muara and advanced methods, many indispensable Lok Baintan on the Martapura River in goods, such as agricultural products, are Traders in Lok Banjar. It is in fact a privilege to witness still being traded today. It goes without Baintan try to find the trading in action, as it dates back to customers. the reign of the Banjar Sultanate. become a major tourist attraction. saying that the floating market has also

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 37 The Lok Baintan Floating Market usually opens from just after dawn until the boats disperse mid-morning. Buyers and sellers use small traditional boats called a “klotok”. Traders, mostly women, would pre-emptively approach buyers in their klotoks to hawk their goods; which range from fruits like rambutans, bananas, guavas and oranges, to vegetables like cassava leaves, water spinach

plenty of traditional snacks. Casualand cauliflowers. conversations You’ll and also intense find haggling are widely practiced, if not expected, as it makes the market livelier.

markets usually offer their goods in largeThe quantities sellers in so these you canfloating forget buying one or two rambutans as souvenirs. Be prepared to share your purchase with your family or share them among friends. Thankfully, there are plenty of exotic fruits worth buying. Take the Kalimantan mango or kasturi (Mangifera casturi) for example. It may taste similar to an ordinary mango, but it tends to be softer

the rambai (Baccaurea motleyana), whichand with is a less bit flesh.like longan There or is similaralso to another rare fruit, the menteng. There is also the duku fruit, which is also known as langsat or lanzones, the latter of which is somewhat common in Indonesia.

Traders trade commodities and marketable goods in Lok Baintan floating market.

38 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 39 LIVING CULTURE & COMMUNITY : MUARA KUIN & LOK BAINTAN

ENJOYING THE FLOATING MARKET To have the best experience in FAST FACT advisable to depart from your hotel veryenjoying early the in floatingthe morning. market, The it market is • The existence of floating market is very much part of the start soon after dawn and there’s city’s history. In 1526, Sultan nothing quite like getting involved in Suriansyah built a kingdom all the talking and haggling before the on the edge of the Kuin and Barito rivers that later became sun starts rising too high and more Banjarmasin city. and more people crowd the river. • A traditional trade centre You can even rent a “klotok” or small gradually developed along motor boat to get a real feel of the these rivers and Banjarmasin process. then became home to the floating market in Muara Kuin Do take caution, as travelling in and the other in Lok Baintan on the small boats can be challenging. the Martapura River. They are usually only 5-metre long • The Martapura River divides and 1.5-metre wide. Inexperienced the city and provides for water visitors can expect to fall of the boat transportation, trade and as its rocks frequently and unsteadily. tourism. That said, once you’ve acclimated • Banjarmasin is dubbed Kota yourself to the shifting balance of Air or Water City since it lies a few centimetres below sea level. to some wonderful sceneries as you travelthe boat, to theyou’ll market find yourself– from sparsely treated populated sedge grass meadows to dewy green plantations. Another HOW TO GET THERE perks to leaving early in the wee hours are the beautiful scattering of • Fly in the afternoon or at night stars of the-pre-dawn sky, fading ever to Banjarmasin and stay for so slowly as the sun rolls in. one night. • Use a chartered or rented car markets are so popular is the fact and boat (plus a local guide) to take you to the floating market. thatAnother they are reason run by why farmers the floating who Get up before dawn and get would bring their yields directly to there early. the merchants, who purchase them • If you had decided to rent in bulk. The merchants, with their a car, look for a driver with klotok, would then take the produce experience of driving guests. It’s a four hour trip to Loksado and re-sell it to the townsfolk. You’ll and it’s a good time to gleam some local tips and tricks from handicrafts. your driver. alsoAfter find allcraftsmen the talking, selling bumping clothes of and boats and the haphazard balancing act of trying to stay on the boat, end your day with a portion of Soto Banjar. A combination of lontong, spicy clear broth with shredded of chicken, eggs, vegetables and potatoes, there is no other meal more rustic to complete

your floating market adventure.

40 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION The greatest floating market at South (Kalimantan) Indonesia.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 41 LIVING CULTURE & COMMUNITY

42 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION House Building and Boatbuilding Ceremony

Behind the Boats and Houses

– BY NOVIA RAHMAWATI –

any native Indonesians still believe that there is a cosmological power ruling over M nature that continues to have profound effect on the lives of men and all other

Indonesian rituals dedicated to craftsmanship. This is particularlyliving things prevalent on earth. Thisin the is construction why you’ll find of boatsmany and houses, two manmade objects crafted with the bounty of nature expected to have long-lasting effects.

ALL BEGINS LONG BEFORE IT SAILS Boatbuilding is an integral part of the daily life in many villages in the country, especially in the three villages of Lemo-Lemo, Ara and Bira. It governs most of the community’s social, economic and cultural fabric. Indeed, about 70 per cent of the population of the districts make a living through work related to boatbuilding and navigation. For them, those elements are not only their economic mainstay, but the central focus of their lives and identity as well. Having said that, it’s highly understandable that the boatbuilding ritual becomes an essential part one must learn in order to complete the task.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 43 One of the workmen of workmen who are responsible to responsible to build about the ritual of boatbuilding is the boat. build the boat. Based on their skills and the Thekey firstparties thing involved. one needs There to areknow dependability, Sawi are ranked from Panrita Lopi, Sawi and Sambalu. The Sawi Kepala (foreman), Sawi Kabusu Panrita Lopi – the master shipwrights (senior shipwright) to Sawi Pamula of Lemo-Lemo and Ara – are the bearers of the erudite knowledge of the last key persons required in the tatta (plank patterns) plans. In most boatbuilding(a novice shipwright). ceremony And are finally,Sambalu, cases, they also lead the essential the customers of the Panrita Lopi. They rituals performed throughout the submit the measurement and type of building process. A Panrita Lopi boat to be built. oversees a group of workmen and Out of all the stories involving manages the division of work and the relationship between the sea and labour. The position of Panrita Lopi man’s main method of traversing it, the is inherited through family ties or story of the pinisi from Tana Beru and through persistent engagement in boat the sailors from the Bira, Bulukumba, construction. stand apart. Few now realise the skills The other party needed to required to be on par with the past complete the ritual is Sawi, a group sailors from these areas in the southern

44 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION LIVING CULTURE & COMMUNITY : RITUAL OF HOUSES & PERAHU

tip of Sulawesi Island. But it’s a skill that’s been honed across hundreds to the sea to protect its voyage, and of years of sailing – a tradition that anotheraffirm his piece position thrown as chief, to the a ground piece cannot be separated from the fact that to ensure its safe return. All of these these are the same people who created must be done before the building Indonesia’s most well-known boat. process itself. The creation of the pinisi is akin Such rituals are not exclusive to a complete ritual. Led by a Panrita to Sulawesi. The people of Bali and Madura, for example, would drill various biddings in order to prepare a hole in the end of the bow of the ceremonies.Lopi, villagers Cakes would and first sweets conduct are made to ensure that the boat would be spell. The hole is then closed using thekeel, blood which of would the animal. be filled The with builder – its head given to the Panrita Lopi to and the buyer would then exchange profitable. A white chicken is sacrificed gifts at the end of the ceremony. Today, the centres of boatbuilding are located at Tana Beru and Bira (Bulukumba, South Out of all the stories involving Sulawesi) and Batu Licin (South Kalimantan). The shipwrights of Ara the relationship between the would also offer their services at sea and man’s main method any location throughout the Malay The boatbuilding ritual Archipelago. However, until the is an integral part one of traversing it, the story of takes seriously before 1950’s, the main construction sites creating a boat in many the pinisi from Tana Beru were at Lemo-Lemo and Bira. villages in the country. and the sailors from the Bira, Bulukumba, stand apart.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 45 LIVING CULTURE & COMMUNITY : RITUAL OF HOUSES & PERAHU

PASSED DOWN FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION To ensure the boatbuilding tradition is alive and well, the knowledge and skills of the ceremony are passed down from generation to generation within the family circle, and may also be transferred to individuals outside the family who evince a desire to learn. Any knowledge transmitted within the family is passed from parents to children through habituation, example and repetition, whilst knowledge transmission to The pull-chain of individuals outside the family circle the Pinisi is ready is conducted through the division of to be used. labour. And noted that knowledge related to tatta building plans and The worker the ritual background is passed only of Pinisi boat to individuals who are capable and giving offerings passionate to master the skill. during the boat- building ritual.

46 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION To inherit further sophisticated Take the people of Buton, Riau Islands, Villagers are knowledge about boatbuilding, one must who equate the house to a woman. Each trying to pull the section of a home must thus possess all Pinisi to the sea. maturity. Based on intuition and guidance the parts of a woman, each part serving thatdemonstrate is believed self-efficacy to come from and God,spiritual a Panrita Lopi would then select a “rightful” communities believe that a house must have inheritor to such learning and gradually the specific purpose it is based on. Other share his “secret and sacred” knowledge. the tree from which the house is made of. polesIt isthat often stick the to case the that,ground even – a before reflection the of details of tatta plans and concludes with construction process, builders must ask pray Thisthe erudition final training related commences to rituals withand their the to ask permission of the “gatekeeper” waiting esoteric background. construction site. Furthermore, when the main pole is inserted into the ground, builders HEAVEN ON EARTH must also bury several objects in the hole Akin to boatbuilding, the adherence to before decorating with sesajen (offerings) tradition also extends to the practice such as coconut, sugar cane and bananas. of creating one’s home. Indeed, much The installation of the roof also plays an like how a sailor would develop a close important role and is traditionally assisted by relationship to the sea, a farmer must also all members of the nearby community. maintain his relationship to the land. The people of have a special house

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 47 building ceremony, which starts all the way from the point where builders gather the materials to the

move in. For example, the people of point in which the owners officially the spirit of the forest, in which the woodAceh would for the sacrifice boards ofan the animal house to are Blood stain comes taken from. On the other hand, the from a goat which is sacrificed during the coastal cities of Aceh such as Aceh boatbuilding ritual. Besar, Aceh Utara, Aceh Barat and

48 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION Pidie, logs and timber may only be building the house are made clear Villagers are – whether it’s about sheltering and working together these materials during the high , nurturing a family or becoming to pull the Pinisi to the sea. forharvested example, at wouldspecific cause time. the Procuring wood a more productive member of to be brittle. society. It is refreshing to see how In any case, such ceremonies the act of building a house can are often celebratory, with close bring people together, while at the relatives, neighbours and community same time escorting the journey of members gathering together for a a home owner and hoping that his feast and a communal prayer. In such events, the intent and purposes of prosperity and security. path would be filled with health,

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 49 RITES & CELEBRATION

50 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION Bau Nyale and Pasola A Closer Look On How the Sasak Community Gives Thanks – BY RAHMI DIAN –

ometime in February that involves a ritual of worm-hunting or March, the Sasak on Sager Beach, Lombok, has somewhat princess secluded herself to the forests S community in Lombok will eclipsed the former, almost brutal, to lookDistressed for answers. by the She conflict, reappeared the Pasola. later on the 20th day of the 10th month busy preparing for the celebration of It is this element, in which the Sasak of the Sasak Calendar, having gathered Bau Nyale – finda traditional themselves ceremony extremely to community is told to look for colourful the warring princes on a beach. And express gratitude to nature. sea worms or Nyale that gives this thus it was there, in front of her suitors, There is no Gregorian equivalent to festival its current name. These worms her parent and the people of Lombok, the day of Bau Nyale. According to the would usually end up being eaten or that she promised that she would not Sasak calendar, the celebration is to be taken back home. Interestingly enough, pledge herself to any one prince and no matter how many Nyale worms are that she would instead divide herself the 10th month of its calendar. These harvested during the celebration, there equally to everyone. She then plunged pastheld fewfive yearsdays after however, the full this moon traditional or at always seems to be enough worms for herself into the sea to the horror of ceremony is often seen occurring on the everyone. The story behind this never- everyone who gathered at the beach. ending supply of worms is attributed to The horror turned into amazement or March. the story of Princess . however as, not long after, colourful firstThe few Rato days – of a communityeither February leader in blob worms began arriving to shore. the local Marapu belief – is the person A LOMBOK FAIRYTALE Believing it was their princess returning responsible for setting the date. This There is no exact date as to when the to them, the people of Lombok began is done via a number of traditional tale of Princess Mandalika began to take taking the worms and feast upon them. meetings between members of the centre stage. But ask any Lombok native It is since then, during Bau Nyale in community and by watching the signs about the origin of the Nyale and this Seger Beach in , Lombok, that the in the sky. Once all the conditions have will be the story you’ll hear. Sasak community would gather at the been met and the date is agreed upon, The legend states that, once upon a beach to wait for these colourful worms. the Sasak community makes no delay in time lived a princess named Mandalika, their preparation to welcome the event. the daughter of the ruler of Lombok importance of the Rato, a person whose The tradition of Bau Nyale has an island, whose grace and beauty is so greatnessThe ritual must also be signifiesapparent the in order extensive backstory and it has evolved powerful that it became the object to obtain the privilege to lead the alongside the Sasak community. Initially, of contestation by the princes of the ceremony. During Bau Nyale, the Rato the more prominent ceremony in Bau royal Nusa Tenggara area, the name of would perform a special ritual called Nyale was the Pasola – an ancient war which the cluster of islands that include “nende ayu ayuning jagad” to welcome ritual where two groups of Sumbanese Lombok and Bali used to be known. princess Mandalika. These days, the The competition for her hand became Sasak community would also perform spears at each other. However, another so heated that it led to war between the an epic play in keeping the memory of interestingmen rode horses element and of fling the celebrationwooden many kingdoms of Royal Nusa Tenggara. their dear princess.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 51 Locals are looking for Nyale during the Bau Nyale Festival.

The worms that have been taken then will be eaten as a homage to Princess Mandalika.

It is never understood exactly how the Nyale worms began appearing off the coast of Lombok. There have been theories attributing the arrival of these sea-borne worms to the accordance to the Indian Monsoon current.reversing That flow said, of the no Indian theory Ocean has in PASOLA, A SUMBANESE managed to explain the seemingly THANKSGIVING unending supply of Nyale worms that Pasola is the name of an ancient war Pasola comes from the word washes unto the Lombok shore. ritual festival that is held by two Sola or Hola, which refers to a The act of eating the worms, on groups of selected Sumbanese men. spear-like wooden stick that is the other hand, is quite real as it is They come riding colourful decorated considered a blessing to feast upon groups of horsemen. Only the best the Nyale. Some would eat it raw while each other. This traditional ceremony equinesflung between are ridden two opposingin this ritual, others would cook them beforehand. ishorses held inand adherence fling wooden to the spears ways atof and only the bravest of the Sasak And yes, visitors are also expected to traditional norms, every year. people are allowed to participate eat the worms, as it is considered bad The festival occurs in February or in all their elaborate traditional luck to reject an offering of Nyale. So if March in Lamboya and Kodi, Lombok. costumes. you’re considering on witnessing the The main activity starts several days The people of Sumba believe after the full moon and it coincides that the ritual has a very close link The worms supposedly taste salty and with the annual arrival of the to the original customs of their somewhatevent first-hand, chewy. do If comeyou want prepared. to see multihued sea worms locally known as people. Indeed, the act requires the festival but are unwilling to eat Nyale upon Lombok’s shore. The exact a strong balance between the raw worms, feel free to ask the locals date of the event is decided by the physical, as in the material needs, to cook them for you. They will be Rato – a local community leader – who and the mental, as in the spiritual more than happy to share the love of announces the date one or two weeks needs. In other words the ritual is Princess Mandalika. prior to the festival. believed to be able to habitually

52 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION RITES & CELEBRATION – BAU NYALE & PASOLA

shape the people both physically Without blood, the Pasola is and mentally, and thus allow them rendered meaningless. And those to achieve happiness in both earth who fail to draw blood in a Pasola and heaven. In addition, the Pasola is arena are believed to have broken also believed to be closely linked to tradition. That said, the violence . Therefore any bloodshed in a Pasola is never egregious and there is always a level of extreme men participating in the ritual – is sportsmanship displayed by the considered– from sacrificial a symbol cattle of orprosperity. from the participants of this ritual.

FAST FACT

• Bau Nyale, or the Nyale Festival, takes place every year in the tenth month of the Sasak calendar at a time close to the full moon, it’s celebrated in February around 14th and 15th in the south coast beaches of Lombok.

• The most popular site for celebrating Bau Nyale is at beautiful Seger Beach near Kuta; an area called Putri Nyale (Princess Nyale) by the people of Lombok • Meanwhile, Pasola is a thanks giving ceremony to the ancestral spirit of people from West Sumba East Nusa Tenggara, also celebrates around Februari.

HOW TO GET THERE

• There are a number of direct flights available from Jakarta and Surabaya to Lombok. If you have the luxury of time, a boat trip is the most scenic way to get to the island. You will require a car to see the Pasola ritual, which is held much further inland. Pasola Tradition Believed to be a thanks giving cere- mony to the ancestral spirit of people from West Sumba

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 53 RITES & CELEBRATIONS

Tabot and Tabuik Remembering the Prophet Through Festivities – BY ERWIN DARMAWAN –

wo celebrations in THE HISTORY OF Bengkulu and Pariaman TABOT AND TABUIK T bear similar rituals There are no written records as to when and purposes. These Bengkulu and Pariaman began observing the celebrations, namely Tabot in Bengkulu tradition of Tabot and Tabuik. It is believed and Tabuik in Pariaman, are celebrated that the original tradition was originally around the Islamic New Year. brought in by workers employed in the Both ceremonies, the names of construction of Fort Marlborough during the which are Arabic, have the same early 1700s’ in Bengkulu. The British, back rough meaning of “wooden ark”. The then, transported builders from Madras and Tabot and Tabuik are local, traditional Bengal in Southern India. ceremonies commemorated on the 10th A number of these workers, led by Imam of Muharram of the Lunar Calendar. Senggolo, also known as Sheikh Burhanuddin, decided to remain in Sumatra and establish a New Year celebration, the ceremonies new settlement. Their traditions thus began areAside also from symbols its significance and expressions as an Islamic of assimilating with the indigenous communities sorrow for the Prophet Muhammad’s of Bengkulu via marriage and other means. grandsons Hasan and Husein bin Ali Their offsprings, known as the people of bin Abi Thalib, who died in battle in the Sipai, are those responsible for continuing the plains of Karbala. tradition until today.

54 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION The Tabot festivity in Bengkulu.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 55 The musical performance Back then, the ceremony was a winged-horse with a bust and head plays an integral part in the Tabot/ Tabuik festival. celebrated from Bengkulu to Painan, of a person. In Islamic literature, this as well as in the cities of Padang, creature is called the Al-Buraq, and it Pariaman, Maninjau, Pidie, Banda is believed to have carried the Prophet Aceh, Meuleboh and . Nowadays Muhammad in his journey from Mecca however, the festival has lost its to Medina, which in itself is known widespread popularity, with only two as the Is’ra Miraj or “Night Journey”. places in Sumatra continuing to revel This ark is usually 15-metre tall and is in the festivities. And while the original decorated in red and gold. FAST FACT tradition has diverged into the two The musical instruments to be ceremonies of the Tabot in Bengkulu used in the ceremonies are called the and the Tabuik in Pariaman, the practice dol and the tessa. The dol is made of • Tabot (Bengkulu) or Tabuik (Pariaman - West remain quite a sight to behold. wood that has been hollowed in the Sumatera) is a traditional centre and then covered with cow ceremony to commemorate skin. A percussive instrument, the dol the story of heroism and LET THE FESTIVITIES BEGIN death of the Prophet The people of Bengkulu and Pariaman is between 70 and 125 centimetres in Muhammad’s grandson, would start preparing for the Tabuik diameter, while the stick used to beat Hasan and Husayn ibn Ali two weeks prior to the main event. the dol is 5 centimetres in diameter ibn Abi Talib in a battle with Zaid bin Ubaidillah troops Many would fast to prepare for the and 30 centimetres in length. The in the field of Karbala, Iraq revelry, as traditional snacks and tessa is also a percussive instrument, on 10 Muharam 61 Hijri typical Tabuik food are to be expected though it is made of copper, iron or (681 AD). during the event. Teenagers are aluminium. The hollowed out • In recent years, this tabot- commonly responsible for creating space of the tessa is covered with tabuik celebrate soon after Islamic New Year. the most important component in the dried goatskin. celebration: a makeshift ark or wooden Once the celebration starts, • Tabuik/tabot means ark or revellers will begin marching to the wooden box in arabic. box, from which the festival derived its name. Made from bamboo and wood, beach. A single Tabot/Tabuik will be the ark is usually made up of a body of carried by about 40 peoples. Behind

56 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION RITES & CELEBRATION – TABOT AND TABUIK

The revellers of Tabuik Festival are arriving at the beach, marked the end of the parade.

the Tabot/Tabuik are traditionally- dressed groups of people bringing and banging the dol and tessa. Participants chant as an expression of respect to Hasan and Hussein. Along artists demonstrating their skills whilethe way, being you accompanied will also find withmartial the traditional music. The procession comes to an end on sunset, when the Tabuik/Tabot has been brought to its destination. Local belief states the Tabuik/Tabot carries along the misfortune with its departure, thus ensuring the locals better luck in the future. There are a number of differences between the Tabot and the Tabuik. In Bengkulu, for example, the number of Tabot that need to carried are 17. In Pariaman there are only two Tabuik, namely Tabuik Subarang and Tabuik Pasa. The biggest difference however

Tabot and Tabuik. The Pariaman carry is the final destinations of each of the allowing it to drift away to deep sea. Thethe Tabuik Tabot in unto Bengkulu the shore, ends finally in the swamps around the cemetery known as the resting place of Imam Sheikh Burhanuddin. Lately, there have been a number of criticisms from various elements of society in regards to the implementation of these ceremonies. One of the most fundamental being shift in the function of the ritual ceremonies from a religious one to cultural festival. Either way, the ceremonies are two of the more important cultural and historical legacies of the country’s past and it deserves preserving for that alone.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 57 PERFORMING ARTS

Balinese Dance A Pathaway To Serve God

– BY MARIA SUSANTI –

58 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION RELIGION IS NOT THE SOLE ELEMENT OF A BALINESE DANCE. IN IT IS THE BALINESE ATTITUDE TOWARDS LIFE: HOW THEY LOOK AT NATURE AND HOW THEY REGARD THEIR FAUNA AND FLORA.

s the most popular travel destination in Indonesia, A Bali has a lot of attractions going for it. From a slew of nightlife entertainments to cultural and spiritual excursions, Bali has a lot to offer. In the cultural department, Balinese dances are easily some of the more attractive aspect of the island. Two factors contribute to this fact: the art itself and the sanctity of the dances. Balinese dance has always been a part of the island’s religious facet. It’s a prayer, an offering to the Gods and the islanders’ way of giving thanks. These dances are believed to be an amalgamation of Indian and local sensibilities. Traditional dances and music play an important role in Hindu-Indian religious ceremonies. In Bali, the islanders’ strong identity

indigenous animistic and folklore-ish elements,lends to the creating various an influences expression of that is distinct to Bali.

Balinese dance, a valued cultural heritage worth preserving. INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 59 skills early in their life. The training is widely recognised as rigorous. Balinese parents would also often leave their children’s dance and music education completely to their teachers. This is because they believe that well-known teachers possess a taksu (dance spirit) and that these teachers are obliged to transfer their knowledge and spirit to maintain this taksu. The process itself is not unlike what you see in kung- fu movies, with masters and pupils developing a relationship based on discipline and training. Dance classes often start very early at dawn and is held a few days in a week. Children as young as 6-7 years old would stand in a row in the banjar (a communal building used for social or religious activities) before starting their daily training. They would pray to the goddess of art and ask for her blessing. The dance maestro is usually an old lady or a man and they would almost always posses a thin, yet muscular and healthy body. These are your most experienced dancers and it’s not uncommon for children to initially be fearful towards Young dancers perform DANCES IN BALINESE a welcome dance in a their dance teachers. ‘full moon ceremony’ DAILY LIVING The most basic teaching is the ajeg – in the Bedulu village in If you pay attention, the dances actually the stand and pose of a dance. This is the , Bali. most important position in a Balinese people. Religion is not the sole element dance. Any student who fails to perform ofreflect a Balinese to day-to-day dance. In lives it is of the the Balinese Balinese the perfect ajeg would not continue attitude towards life: how they look at to see their dance career evolve. Many nature and how they regard their fauna would continue to learn the ajeg for weeks, and even months. You can always Balinese dances are a part of their tell a good Balinese dancer by their ajeg, customsand flora. and For cultural most of expressions.them, traditional Some the way their body lean and the grace even believe that the dances give them and pliant posture with which the ajeg cultural identity and a feeling that they is revered. are continuing their ancestors’ cultural The teacher will then stand in front heritage. of the children and begin dancing. The The traditional dances and drama children will follow his or her every are usually performed during temple movement. Once the teacher feels that festivals and in ceremonies. The dances a child understands the basic sequence, tourists often see in hotels are only a she will stand behind the child, and small fraction of what Balinese dances direct the child by holding her wrists. has to offer. Practicing with a gamelan orchestra Because of the importance of dance is only allowed when the dance is and music, Balinese people learn these considered to have “entered” the

60 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION PERFORMING ARTS – BALINESE DANCE

student. The dancer must learn to fully in a pura or Balinese temple, express the character she is performing; the Panyembrana is the original self-expression is a null concept here. welcoming dance, while the Pendet is the more sacred dance. Usually they will learn is either the Pendet or performed by married women, the Panyembrana.For all students, Both theof these first dancedances are, essentially, welcoming dances, though and elegant movements of carrying the Pendet is more often used in this dance is basically a series of dignified A young Balinese and presenting offerings to the Gods is performing the function. It is important to know that, and Goddesses. Balinese dance. when opening religious ceremonies And while the duration and costumes are mostly similar between the two dances, the Panyembrana is more complicated. This is perhaps why, along the way, the has been the more commonly performed dance. It could also be noted that the Panyembrana dance could also be performed by teenage girls. And while outsiders would tend to assume that the Pendet is the main dance, any proper Balinese dancer knows that it is the other way around, and that, despite the dance being somewhat pushed aside for the simpler version, they must practice the Panyembrana just as intensively, if not more. Most people in Bali are able to dance at least several dances in order to support their family during religious ceremonies. A dedicated dancer, thus, is generally much more knowledgeable and possessing that of a much deeper ties with the dances. For one, dancers must have joined a troupe called sekehe, and they must follow daily training as well as obey to the standard regulation of a troupe such as being on-call when the troupe needs to perform. A dancer, especially the well-trained ones, has an important position in the community. The life of a dancer requires a lifetime of work and dedication, often ending up in teaching position as they obtain seniority or continuing to dance all the way into their golden ages. “Until our last breath,“ said Kompiang Raka, a dancer, teacher and Director of Saraswati Dance Studio in Bali and Jakarta.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 61 PERFORMING ARTS – BALINESE DANCE FROM SACRED TO ENTERTAINMENT DANCES BASED ON THEIR RELIGIOUS FUNCTIONS, BALINESE DANCES CAN BE CATEGORISED INTO SEVERAL SECTIONS:

taught on how to pray and clear the 1 Wali mind in order to attain the trance. When the priest concludes that the (sacred dances) dancer is ready, she will perform it in the court of the temple. Dressed These dances are considered sacred, and must be in an elaborate attire and with a performed in the inner court (mandala utama) of burning at the top of her the temple. Some dances may performed for the crown, this young girls would public, though with some alteration. slowly dance as a chant prepares to accompany her into her trance. Once she has entered the trance phase, people belief that the Gods and movements, the dancer wear Goddesses have entered her body costumes designed in tapestry, and the ritual can then commence. headbands in gold and strings of frangipani blossom. It is occasionally performed by women and children The most well-known dance in Bali, and it is easily seen in Sanur, Tabanan this dance is a story-telling dance. It and Ubud. evil. This dance is a classic example PENDET UPACARA ofnarrates the Balinese the fight way between of acting good out and This dance is usually performed by mythology, resulting in myth and married women. Moving in very history being blended into a single reality. The Barong is usually paired and present offerings to their Gods with the Rangda, the antithesis of anddignified Goddesses. and elegant way, they carry Barong. REJANG Generally performed by females, the DEDARI is a procession of children This dance is performed to give who have just learned how to walk. thanks to the Gods and Goddesses Dancers moves slowly towards the altar, or to ask for blessing. A bad harvest carrying twirling fans while lifting their or an outburst of illness may call belts. Costumes range from very simple this dance to be performed. The traditional attires to an elaborate preparation for this dance takes traditional dress complete with a gold several months and it involves headdress. preparing a girl for the sole purpose of being a Rejang dancer – she must BARIS UPACARA not have reached her puberty and Baris literally means a warrior has never danced before in order formation and it is usually performed to qualify. And then, with help from by men. Consisting of dramatic a local priest, the dancer would be

62 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 2 Bebali (semi-sacred/ ceremonial dances)

These types of dances are performed in the middle WONG compound (madya mandala) of Balinese temples as The combines accompaniment to ceremonies. The dances usually have dance, epic drama and scenarios when it is performed for the audience. music in one performance. It is performed by a group of dancers who mostly wear masks as part of the tradition.

GAMBUH TOPENG Formerly known as royal SIDHAKARYA theatrical performance, The Topeng the Dance drama Sidhakarya is is now accompaniment to performed by masked ceremonies and is usually dancers to neutralise performed by 25–40 dancers. the evil spirits in a ceremony.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 63 PERFORMING ARTS – BALINESE DANCE

3 Balih-Balihan

These dances are mostly performed to entertain and have no relation to Balinese religious ceremonies. Some are historical depiction, while others are comical. It is performed in the outer compound of temples or in parties and gatherings.

JANGER Performed by young girls, the dancer wear a peacock-shaped headwear and the clothes are gold. Most of the dances are performed sitting down, with highly coordinated hand, shoulder, and eye movements.

KEBYAR The Kebyar is usually performed by two women with long, shiny black hair, which are accentuated at the top by a band of cempaka blossoms, and a fan on each one of their hands.

LEGONG Considered as one of the more important Balinese dance, the is a romance dance that describes the emotions of a young man who has fallen in love with a young girl. There are several Legong dances. The Legong Trunajaya,

attempts of a young man who is tryingfor example, to attract reflects a girl. the It islove the and most feminine dance, what with its use of graceful and slow movement. The dance is usually performed by two girls who have yet to reach puberty. In fact, these girls must retire by the time they reach puberty. Another example is the Legong Lasem, which A Balinese dancer is is a long and complicated dance that performing Janger. depicts the journey of King Lasem. Performed by two dancers, the series of Legong Lasem opens with the dance, who himself act as a story teller. This is an advanced dance known for its long duration and complicated techniques.

64 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION Legong A romance dance depicting the emotions of two young lovers. INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 65 ARCHITECTURE

Penyengat Island, the birth place of Indonesian language. 66 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION Penyengat Island

The Princess’ Wedding Gift – BY YULITA RANGKUTI –

The sultan fashioned the island enyengat Island may seem to act as the heart of the Riau-Lingga Kingdom. He built a palace, a grand hall, island within the P a mosque and even a fort on the island. Riaulike a Islands tiny, insignificant province Legend concludes that these gifts were (Kepri), but it has a major role in all a part of the Sultan’s effort to quell the proliferation of Islam and the development of the Melayu culture and Melayu and the Bugis. language. Indeed, it can be said that it an interracialThe Sultan conflict decreed between that Engku the Putri is where our own Indonesian language Raja Hamidah would have complete originates. ownership over the island, as well as the entire descendant of Raja Haji, Raja BEGINNINGS Hamidah’s late father. Penyengat Island Penyengat Island, otherwise known by would later be run by Raja Ja’far, Raja its complete name of Pulau Penyengat Hamidah’s step-brother. Inderasakti, is located 6 kilometre But the Sultan would grant Raja across , where the capital Hamidah more than just the island. of the Kepri, Tanjungpinang, lies. The He also gave her ownership of the island is a 15-minute motorboat ride Kingdom’s royal regalia. This creed and only 3.5 square metres large. One would later be contested following the can easily circle the whole island on a death of Sultan Mahmudsyah III by Raja motorbike in just 30 minutes. Ja’Far himself. Penyengat Island is closely related Raja Hamidah, who did not have a female heir because her only daughter Hamidah, the daughter princess of did not live long enough to sit on the Hajito the Fisabilillah figure of Engku Yang Dipertuan Putri Raja Muda throne, demanded that her oldest son, Riau IV or the ruler of the Riau-Lingga Tengku Hussain, to take the Sultancy. Kingdom circa 1777-1748. The island Raja Ja’far, who had managed to muster is said to be a wedding gift from Sultan Mahmud Marhum Besar, also known opted instead for Tengku Hussain’s as Sultan Mahmudsyah III, the ruler of youngera much larger brother, influence Tengku in Abdul the kingdom, Johor Kingdom, to Raja Hamidah. Rahman.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 67 is still well preserved up until today. with the royal regalia, forcing the Within the mosque-like dome that coronationRaja Hamidah of Tengku then Abdul fled in Rahman anger as the next Sultan to proceed with the absence of these royal items, thus suchhouses as herMariam, remains a concubine are other of significant Sultan shedding doubt over the legitimacy Mahmudsyahfigures in the Riau-LinggaIII; Raja Haji kingdom, Abdullah of the coronation. Not only is the Marhum Mursyid Yang Dipertuan Agung royal regalia a symbol of power for Riau IX, and his consort, Raja Aisyah. the Sultancy, it is also said to possess Just outside the main building of the magical powers to avert disasters. cemetery is the grave of Raja Ali Haji, a So powerful was the royal regalia noted Melayu poet who is well-known that both of Raja Hamidah’s sons for his magnum opus, “Gurindam begged her to hand the regalia to Dua Belas”. Raja Haji Ali is the one either one of them. Abdul Rahman who documented the handing over of eventually asked the Dutch-Indies Penyengat Island as a wedding gift to for assistance in taking the regalia by Engku Putri Raja Hamidah in his book, force, and he was eventually crowned the King of Riau-Lingga. Tuhfat Al Nafis or “precious gift”. The Mosque of Egg Whites. The royal regalia is now kept safely A MOSQUE OF EGG WHITES Legend has it that a large in the National Monument, Jakarta. A notable building within the grand part of the building material Engku Putri Raja Hamidah herself royal complex of Penyengat Island was made of egg whites. passed away in 1844 and was buried is a mosque. It was initially a simple in the island that was her wedding wooden building equipped with brick gift. Her tombstone, which now stairs and a 6-metre tall minaret. stands along a number of tombstones This mosque has since seen major belonging to other royalties in what is renovations during the reign of Sultan a cemetery of Riau-Lingga royalties, Abdul Rahman. In fact, renovations

68 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION ARCHITECTURE – PENYENGAT ISLAND

began exactly right after the Eid al-Fitr 4 minarets, which adds up to 17. The number 17 symbolises the number of the lunar calendar or 1832 AD. rakat or movements done in an Islamic prayersThe Sultanon the supposedlyfirst of Syawal, used 1284 egg of prayer in a single day. whites to keep the materials intact. Nearly all the buildings left by the According to the legend itself, the local Riau-Lingga are yellowish gold and people gave rice, vegetables and eggs moss-green. For the Melayu people, the to the workers during the renovation. yellowish gold represents magnanimity, Tired of eating the same thing over and authority, grandeur and power. During over again, the workers would eat the the reign of the Melayu kings, only those yolk and away the whites. The of royal lineage may use the colour. architect, rather than let the whites be Moss-green represents fertility, loyalty, wasted, ended up mixing them to the adherence and submission towards the building materials. teachings of Islam. Whether it’s the egg whites or The wealth and uniqueness of this plain good design, the mosque has cultural and historical legacy is but a nevertheless stood strong for the next small party of what has been passed two centuries. It is said that the mosque down by the ancient inhabitants of never required any further renovation, Penyengat Island. Fortunately, these nor was there any call for a major legacies have been very well preserved. It is, until now, a brilliant pilgrimage conducted by Sultan Abdul Rahman. destination, not only for Indonesians, revampThe mosque,since the known first major as Masjid change Raya but also for the people of neighbouring Sultan Riau, now has 13 domes and and Singapore.

FAST FACT

• An island in Riau Province, Indonesia, of approximately 2 square kilometres. It lies just off Bintan Island, close to Tanjung Pinang, the capital of Riau Province. • The island has historical significance, dating back to the 18th century, when it was established as a fort as part of the Sultanate of Johor-Riau by the Bugis. • The island has the tomb of Raja Ali Haji, a 19th century Islamic historian and scholar. • Today, the Sultan’s palace is being restored. It is an interesting blend of Javanese and Dutch architecture, still imbued with an air of dignity, even though it has been abandoned for more than 80 years.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 69 FILM & VISUAL ART

Jermal The Story Behind Indonesian Ocean – BY MARIA SUSANTI –

70 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION early 70 per cent of every day is a constant battle Indonesia’s territory is against the sea for the purpose of N made up of the ocean. harvesting its bounty. And in this vast cerulean Brush off any romantic notion about life in the seas however, as corners of the ocean, are lives that someblue territory, of us have in nevera number even of heard far flung of. It’s a harsh life – one that is supported broughtmany of tothe sea fishermen by relatives in jermal or by by an elevated platforms supported theyare actually parents, fisher-children. these kids have Having little by wooden stakes and tensile nets. In choice to follow their elders as Indonesia, such platform is known as there is nothing waiting for them a jermal. And those who live in jermal beyond the gates of a school except would spend months without ever for that which is known to their parents: the sea. seeing land. For the fishermen in jermal,

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 71 FILM & VISUAL ART – JERMAL

THE STORY deeper than the average story of a boy to make – indeed, choices his father, It was due to the efforts of three- who is forced to grow up much sooner as we see in the movie, often shies screenwriters, Rayya Makarim, Ravi than he should due to circumstances. away from. With Jaya slowly taking up Bharwani and Orlow Seunke, that the And indeed, Jaya was even more conditions in jermal came to light. perturbed after discovering that, having himself having a lot of growing up to Believing the harsh working conditions moved with his father unto a jermal, dothe as mantle well. of adulthood, Johar finds in jermal to be too much for any his mother’s many letters to his father Johar’s issue (and a main focus of children, indeed any adult, to bear, about his son and that his father himself they brainstormed and came up with had not even known that he had a boy. would nurture Jaya into a too harsh a cinematic offering in the hopes of The father greets the news in ofthis a teenager.film) is the Johar fierce see environment the life on that securing the children a brighter future. a manner akin to a petulant child, board a jermal as being ill suited for a essentially refusing to have anything child. And yet therein lies the contrast. who has just lost his mother. Bandi, one to do with the youngster. But neither Here is a disharmonious father and of hisThis relatives, film tells took the the story 12-year-old of Jaya, a boyto could he allow Jaya to leave. And so son relationship, with the father meet his father who worked on a jermal. he sets him to work among the other rejecting the son. The son, having been Bandi himself works as a cook there. kids on the platform. And amidst the rejected, now becomes unsympathetic Jaya however, never even knew he had free-range kids is another element of to the attention given by Johar. An a father and was surprised to meet the incident would eventually overturn man. And though he hesitated to meet adapt quickly to survive. Initially, he is the situation and force the father-son this aspect of his life, it was a life that he rejectedthe movie, by wherein the other Jaya kids finds and heis forcedmust relationship to switch places. Jaya gets could not avoid. to sleep out on the deck. But he quickly A number of ideas involving learns to live off of his wits and it isn’t reverts him to consider his father’s adulthood, childhood, as well as long before he is winning friends and offerinvolved to return in a fight, to land. which Johar eventually himself acceptance and rejection are explored making the sort of adult choices those has decided to abandon work on the in the movie – and in a way that is much with rights and responsibilities have platforms and return to land.

We wanted“ this film to be watched by the whole family. Family film should have a fresh nuance, even if the message can be quite serious. ”

‘Jermal’ tells people about the dark and grim life in the coastal area in the country.

72 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION Indonesia’s renowned actor, Didi Petet in one of the scenes in ‘Jermal’.

AWARD removed from the usual mass consumption of soap operas and cheap horror thrills. WORTHY The story does bear a tendency to go serious and dark, and so the directors made sure to slip some humor and wit “Jermal” was first released in 2008 at here and there so as not to bog down the the Pusan International Film Festival in audience. “Moreover, we wanted this film Korea. It later won numerous awards to be watched by the whole family. Family at various film festivals, including the film should have a fresh nuance, even if Milan International Film Festival and the message can be quite serious,” the Indonesia Movie Awards. It’s by no said Orlow. means a mediocre movie. “Jermal” was released long time It is perhaps quite telling in regards ago, but it still works well in today’s to the vision shared by the three people context, particularly with the current who initiated the project. So much of administration’s ambition to bring return them came together in the movie that, to being a maritime power. Just a quick in terms of writing and cinematography, reminder. The life of the jermal people the movie flowed effortlessly from continues until today. Out there in this vast beginning to end. They wanted the film archipelago is a dark and grim life being led to convey a message about the other by young Indonesian children. A dark legacy side of Indonesia, one that is so far of our maritime country.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 73 Raden Saleh. One of the most remarkable painters the country has ever seen. 74 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION FILM & VISUAL ART – JERMAL

Raden Saleh

The Romantic Indonesian Painter

– BY BUDI SANTOSA –

ne of, if not the most He grew up with his uncle, Raden famous paintings in Dutch- Adipati Suraadimanggala, the regent O Indonesia history, “The of Semarang. Raden Adipati was Arrest of Diponegoro”, both one of the best-educated and has long been recognised as a work wealthiest Javanese of his time. He of unusual interests. The Javanese was also an important supporter artist responsible for the painting, Raden Saleh Sjarif Boestaman, is an Lieutenant Governor of British Java Indonesian Romantic painter of Arab- into thesir Thomas early 1800s’ Stamford and a Raffles, prominent a Javanese ethnicity who pioneered modern Indonesian art. He was figure in South-East Asian history. artist from Indonesia, then Dutch East Prof.His Caspar interest Reinwardt, and finesse founder in drawing Indies,considered and histo be paintings the first corresponded modern ofwas the first discovered Botanical by Garden. acquaintance He with nineteenth-century romanticism introduced Saleh to a Belgian-born – a popular movement in Europe at painter from the Netherlands, A.J. the time. At the same time, he also Payen. Payen is a professional painter expressed his cultural roots and who would often create landscape inventiveness in his work. paintings of Java for commission, his Born in 1811 in Semarang, in the works of which are displayed in the island of Java, Raden Saleh is born into Department van Kolonieen in the a noble Hadhrami family to Sayyid Netherlands. Payen was smitten by Husen bin Alwi bin Awal bin Yahya, an the talents of Saleh, and later decided Indonesian man of Arab descent. to teach the young Saleh.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 75 FILM & VISUAL ART – RADEN SALEH

Payen, who is a former professor of HIS FAMOUS WORK the Academy of Fine Arts in Doornik, Finished in 1857, after his Netherlands, was quite instrumental in return to Java, the painting was preparing Saleh for his future studies presented to the Dutch king of Western painting, as well as the art William III as thanks for his 23 of manufacturing techniques such as years of education and training painting with oil paints. Payen also had as an artist. Saleh travel with him across Java to seek “The Arrest of Pangeran out subjects for paintings, erstwhile Diponegoro” depicted the betrayal commissioning Raden Saleh to draw of the colonial government to people they come across in their travels. Prince Diponegoro – an act that Impressed by his student’s the Java War of 1830. The Prince extraordinary talent, Payen persuaded was tricked into entering a Dutch Saleh to study as far as the Netherlands, territory near Magelang, believing a proposal that later gained the support he was there for negotiations of a of Governor General Godert van der possible truce. He was captured Capellen who ruled at that time instead and then exiled. (1819-1826). This historic event had actually been previously depicted by Dutch EUROPEAN INFLUENCE painter Nicolaas Pineman, who did In 1829, the young Saleh travelled to so by commission from Lieutenant General Hendrik Merkus de Kock. then in Dresden and Paris. It was in It is believed that Saleh had seen DresdenEurope to and hone later his in craft, Coburg first that in Hague Saleh this painting during his stay in matured both personally and as an Europe. His work, however, saw artist. He learned to speak German and developed such close relationships with the Pieneman’s version. Pieneman the country that he befriended Duke paintedsignificant the changes scene from compared the right, to Ernst II of Saxo-Coburg and Gotha, Saleh from the left. Pieneman Queen Victoria’s cousin and depicted Diponegoro with a brother in law. resigned expression. In Saleh’s, Cornelius Kruseman and Andreas painting is titled the “Submission Netherlands. It was from Kruseman that ofhe Princeappeared Diponegoro”, defiant. Pieneman’s while Saleh RadenSchelfhout Saleh were perfected his teachers his techniques in the titled his “The Arrest of Pangeran in portraiture, a skill that would later Diponegoro”. Furthermore, Saleh grant him audience at various European painted Diponegoro’s Dutch courts, where he was assigned to do captors with large heads to make them appear monstrous, the court of Ernest I, one of Saleh’s most as opposed to the more importantportraits. He patrons. even spent five years at proportionally depicted Javanese.

One of Raden Saleh’s masterpiece, “A Flood on Java 1865-1876”

76 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 77 FILM & VISUAL ART – RADEN SALEH

“Kapal Karam Dihantam Raden Saleh’s work has been Badai”. One of Raden regarded as a sign of incipient expression. On the other hand, the Saleh’s paintings, which is now being kept at Galeri nationalism in what was then the Dutch visualsexemplifies are a the stark Raden representation Saleh’s romantic of Nasional Indonesia. East Indies. This can also be seen at the artist’s struggle in balancing the the depiction of Diponegoro’s men. desire to appreciate and express the Pieneman had never been to the Indies, ideal world, and the complicated and and so depicted Diponegoro’s men in a fragmented real world. more Arabic slant. Saleh’s version has In “Ship in the Storm”, two ships are a more accurate depiction of native thrown about violently amidst a storm in the middle of the sea. Thick dark the batik and the blangkon. clouds shows tension, with imposing JavaneseIt perhaps clothing, important with figures to note wearing waves smashing one of the ships. From one of his less-famous, but just as on the rolling waves highlights this Storm”. Finished in 1837, the painting dramaticabove, a glimmer scene even of sunlight more. reflecting significant work called “Ship in the

78 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION FILM & VISUAL ART – RADEN SALEH

AN INDONESIAN HERITAGE

Raden Saleh left a number of legacies to his home country. Upon his return to Indonesia, he worked as a conservator for the colonial collection of government art, where he would continue to paint portraits of the Javanese aristocracy and many landscape paintings. His house in Cikini is based on Callenberg Castle, the residence of the House of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha where he had stayed during his European travels 1844. His fondness of animal prompted him to build a mini-zoo around this castle-home. The grounds around the castle were converted into public gardens in 1862 however, and were later closed at the turn of the century. In 1960, the Indonesian government built Taman Ismail Marzuki in the former gardens, turning it into the capital’s more prominent art centre. The house itself is still used today as a hospital. His name was also inaugurated into a street name. As for the “Arrest of Pangeran Diponegoro”, the painting is currently kept in the National Palace, where it would serve as a “Potret Adolphe”. Also constant reminder of an artist’s can be seen at Galeri Nasional Indonesia. relationship and struggle with the colonisation-era.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 79 PEOPLE

Gesang The Quieter Side of Keroncong

– BY CHRISWAN SUNGKONO –

hough not as ubiquitously the newly formed nation of Indonesia. played throughout the It was during that same period that T country as the boisterously countries as far away as Germany and pulsating dangdut music, Japan began warming up to keroncong, keroncong remains one of Indonesia’s subsequently winning fond fans for most important contributions to the keroncong musicians. panoply of global beat. Before the Keroncong was believed to have waning of the Dutch colonial era, evolved from Portuguese folk music when Indonesia was still known to the brought to the Malayan region by western world as the , Portuguese seamen. Prior to the end the rich, charmingly textured tunes of of the nineteenth century, groups of keroncong had reverberated in the vast troubadours had travelled across the chambers of European royalties, as archipelago playing such strains of well as the rustic rooms of the common folk alike. and citizens from various classes as theymusic, went, entertaining ukulele in affluent hand. Many foreigners of KERONCONG: them hailed from the eastern part of A PORTUGUESE LEGACY the island of Java, where keroncong was Following the aftermath of World War extremely popular. But keroncong would arguably not have enjoyed such worldwide renown andII, fierce Japanese confrontations armed forces took against place ina had it not been to the catchy and yet unitedthe Pacific multitude theatre declaring between themselvesthe Dutch timeless works of Gesang Martohartono.

80 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION An emblematic example is his song titled Bengawan Solo, certainly the most frequently played keroncong tune in the world at that time, a legacy that echoes until today. Upon its debut in 1940, not only did Bengawan Solo’s lulling, meandering rhythm and trilling, twirling tones caught immediate attention of people across the east and the west, it also catapulted the eponymous river of his hometown of Solo (also known as Surakarta), in Central Java, to international recognition. Lanky, unassuming in posture and strikingly serene in personality, Gesang was nonetheless a colossus in the world of keroncong songwriting. Born in 1917 to a batik trader in Solo, Gesang had already found the appeal of the art of sounds at a young age, promising to himself to deepen his grasp of keroncong music. He pursued formal education

Sekolah Rakyat (Public School) Ongkoonly up Loro to the, after fifth which grade he at shiftedthe his focus to music making.

THE SHINE OF A QUIET ARTIST

Si Piatu (The Orphan), was drafted whenGesang’s he wasfirst acomposition, member of the titled keroncong group “Marko”. Si Piatu tells a tale derived from Gesang’s own childhood, which he spent with

SRV (Solosche Radio Vereeniging or thehis stepmother.Solo Radio Company) It first aired in 1934,on the a year that not only marked the beginning of his adulthood, but also lifetime career in keroncong. a definingA series point of compositions in what would then be a followed. These include Roda Dunia (Wheel of the World), Dunia Berdamai (World at Peace), Impenku (My Dream), Jembatan Merah (Red Bridge), and Pamitan (To Say Goodbye),

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 81 PEOPLE – GESANG

and of course the illustrious piece that embodied his fascination with his hometown’s river, Bengawan Solo. However, unlike the steady

these compositions trickled out of him.flow Indeed,of the Bengawan few know Solo that River, Gesang actually found song writing to be a long and arduous undertaking. It’s a process for which he would often had to contemplate for months on end,

his songs amassing endless revisions, untilfiddling he —around not anyone with his else creations, — felt

zenithutterly Gesang content completed with the final on average result. lessFar fromthan beingtwo compositions prolific, even per at hisyear. His entire body of keroncong works features no more than 42 pieces — all this from a career spanning more than seven decades. If some artists, past and present, banking on and perhaps fully realising the brevity of their popularity, would try to churn out new works within short periods of time to rake in as much gold as possible, Gesang was decidedly not part of this get-rich- quick bandwagon. The booming, everlasting popularity of his Bengawan Solo and other keroncong works did not automatically

On the contrary, the most valuable objecttranslate in hisinto estate financial — apart success. from his compositions, naturally — was probably his modest house, located in a public residential area in Karanganyar, Surakarta. In fact, the house was a “donation” from the then Governor of Central Java, Soepardjo

82 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION PEOPLE – GESANG

Rustam, in a gesture of gratitude for musical instruments. He saw himself as Gesang’s lasting role in preserving and popularising keroncong music. And as a singer; the accompanying music bornea lyricist out first of his and tinkering foremost, with and simple then when he turned 62. instruments, such as the recorder or thisFor occurred most of late his in years, his life, Gesang specifically led the acoustic guitar. This was why his a reticent, quiet life. He wedded once works are sparing in terms of musical and left the marriage in 1962 without a complexity, their strong qualities held child. In his later years, he moved to his together rather by his profoundly nephew’s house in Surakarta, relying honest, remarkably simple lyrics. on what meagre royalty he earned from Years after his passing, in 2010, the his music for his daily expenses. He evocative lyrics of Bengawan Solo has perhaps knew what was coming the transcended geography and lifestyle, moment he decided to devote himself having been translated into more to music and let his ailing father’s offer than 12 languages, and is still a stark — to continue the family’s batik trading reminder for mankind of the power business — pass him by. of music in bringing people together Many keroncong fans considered in fellowship. The song has compelled Gesang to be a natural, attributing his many generations from all around the achievements in keroncong to an innate world to visit Surakarta to stand beside musical talent. In various interviews, the Bengawan Solo River, admiring Gesang openly admitted how he had the scenery that once moved Gesang’s never pictured himself as a musician, heart and inspired him to contribute on account of his lack of mastery of something to the world.

Tetangga Pak Gesang: DREAM OF THE REVIVALIST DUO

infuse their lyrically amusing repertoire with Indonesian classics and vintage tracks from the 1940s to 1960s. They don’t limit A lot of young Indonesians may not themselves to the works of Gesang — who, consider Gesang a household name, despite coincidentally, was a resident in the same perhaps knowing how to hum to the tune of neighbourhood as Arum in Surakarta — Bengawan Solo. That’s not the case for Arum but also those from established female Tresnaningtyas (vocal, ukulele) and Meicy artistes, like Tetty Kadi and Lilis Suryani. Sitorus (vocal, kazoo), of the harmonic Tetangga Pak Gesang performs regularly, singing duo that call themselves Tetangga often collaboratively, in various gigs Pak Gesang (Gesang’s Neighbour). Formed across the archipelago, and tweets via in Bandung, , in 2013, the duo @musiktetangga.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 83 FOOD CULTURE

84 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION Raw Fish at its Best

– BY CHRISWAN SUNGKONO –

part from the ubiquitous ALWAYS COME FRESH tofu and tempe, For many remote coastal communities A Indonesians acquire protein via a vast array of protein – often the only source of of animal meat, from the common proteinin Indonesia, – to which fish is they the primaryhave constant source chicken and beef to the more exotic access. Various methods for preparing forest rats and cats – though it should be noted that only a very few frying, drying, smoking and salting, Indonesians continue to eat the latter. tofish name are extensively a few. Although practiced not so here: The most beloved of all types of meat among the people across the world’s is also preserved in some societies, a traditioncommonplace, observed the artby oneof eating generation fish raw The comparatively lopsided water- after another. Surprisingly enough, it’s to-landlargest archipelagoratio in Indonesia’s is the fish. total area, a tradition found in coastal villages and as well as its geographical location at inland settlements alike. In the mini-archipelago of Maluku — a scattering of small islands in eastern withthe confluence an extensive of theportfolio Indian in and marine the Indonesia that are more known in the diversity,Pacific Oceans, resulting provides in the the population’s nation history books as the spice-producing

sashimi-style, complemented with a predilection towards fish. fresh,Moluccas tangy — sauce.fish is Knownoften served as gohu ikan, the dish is usually served at home. Local restaurants in larger towns such as would have it on display – though sometimes one needs to order it in advance.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 85 FOOD CULTURE : INDONESIA RAW FISH

dazzling coral reefs of Halmahera or meanderingto find yourself in the snorkelling streets of above Ternate, the make the time to look for gohu ikan. Its sumptuously tender texture and the

dish worth adding to your local must- eatdelicate list. marriage of flavours make the

THE EXOTIC AND WELL-REWARDED NANIURA for gohu ikan Similar in certain ways to gohu ikan, but The preferred fish species used strikingly different in other respects, in season, then is thethe skipjackyellowfin tuna tuna. is naniura (Andcakalang when, thein the yellowfin region’s tuna parlance) is not – province of , home to a more widely available relative – is the the timelessly, a raw charming fish dish Toba native Lake to andthe the bold, ever-exciting Batak peoples. skinned and washed thoroughly to The Bataks predominantly populate the removecommon the alternative. blood. The The body fish is is then first highlands of Sumatra, far from the sea and with natural access to more animals (or coarsely minced) before being for sustenance. This partly explains smotheredfilleted and withsliced a solutioninto dice-sized of salt cubesand their variegated culinary landscape that freshly-squeezed lemon cui (calamansi has shaped them into such eccentric, orange). Marinated in this manner, the experimental eaters. And at the centre

whitish streaks as it is “live-cooked” sourced from the bounteous . andfish’s tenderised deep red flesh at the begins same totime flaunt in a of theirThis diningis what table makes is freshwaternaniura fish pleasing display of chemistry. The next step is preparing the freshwater ones are used. Naniura condiment. The locally-sourced traditionallydistinctive: in should lieu of be saltwater made from fish, balakama (lemon basil or kemangi in the increasingly rare ihan batak Indonesian) is shredded altogether with (Neolissochilus thienemanni), a species bird’s eye chilli, shallot, and a generous found exclusively in Lake Toba. scoop of roasted and crushed ground Nowadays, however, in many areas nuts (or almonds, for a richer taste), the common ikan mas (carp) is before being drenched in pre-heated used instead. coconut oil. This intensely aromatic

whereupon the now pinkish tuna cubes willmixture become is then coated poured with over a glistening the fish, veneer of oil and calamansi juice. Across Maluku’s palm-fringed islands, from Morotai in the north to Kei Islands in the southeast, gohu ikan is normally savoured by hand, alongside boiled cassava or banana fritters, or both. Should you happen

Naniura, a raw fish dish originated from North Sumatra.

86 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION for naniura must be cleansed and properlySimilar descaled. to gohu Unlikeikan, the gohu fish ikan however, not only the body is used, but also the head. And instead of being cut

two from the top to remove the bones. Itinto is thenpieces, dipped the fish in theis simply juice of split asam into jungga (rough lemon) and a pinch of salt. This will both cure the meat and kill the microbes within. And then the waiting part begins. andaliman, an endemic plant belonging To reach the desired level of tastiness, to the same family as Sichuan pepper. Citrusy in scent and mildly prickly in a day to marinate. This leaves plenty small quantities — and tongue-numbing ofthe time fish tois prepareleft for three the seasoning. hours to half when used liberally — andaliman is Shards of a quartet of herbs — ginger, turmeric, lengkuas (greater galangal) the mixture is applied evenly on and kencur (aromatic ginger) — are what holds the flavours together once stir-fried and then pulverised together before eating. with toasted candlenut, slices of the Letfish your for another palate take couple delight of hours in the shallot and garlic, a tiny bouquet of naniura and wash it down with a hearty steamed torch ginger leaves and, helping of tuak (the Batak’s palm wine) preferably for the Bataks, a fair as your eyes feast on the shimmering sprinkling of chilli. The one spice not to be missed Toba Lake from up high. It’s one of thesky mostreflected rewarding on the glassysensations surface of exquisiteness of naniura — as well Indonesia has in store for those who asin thea host seasoning, of other asBatak it defines dishes the — is make the journey.

GO FOR THE MOST FRESH FISH IN SOME FISH MARKETS IN INDONESIA:

• MUARA ANGKE FISH MARKET, North Jakarta. • KOTO MASJID VILLAGE, West Sumatera. • KAMPAR DISTRICT, West Sumatera. • BANDA NEIRA FISH MARKET, Molucca. • BERSEHATI FISH MARKET, Manado.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 87 CULTURAL SPOTS

WEH ISLANDS

A tiny tropical rock off the tip of Sumatra, Pulau Weh rewards travellers who’ve journeyed through the turbulent greater mainland below with a peaceful and serene landscape. Trek around the mainland’s jungles, volcanoes and lakes, or jump into the languid waters of the . Snorkellers and divers here get to bubble through the great walls of swaying sea fans, deep canyons and rock pinnacles, while marvelling at the prehistorically gargantuan fish. This is one of the finest underwater destinations you’ll find. DIVING SPOT

NUSA LEMBONGAN Coastal paths wind lazily around Nusa Lembongan, inviting travellers to explore the island on foot. forests, seaweed farms and tranquil beaches like Jungut Batu and Dream Beach exemplify Nusa DERAWAN Lembongan’s natural beauty, with clear blue waters that are The is everyone’s dream of the perfect tropical paradise: diving. Walk the suspension warm and isolated with soft white bridgeperfect over for surfing to neighbouring and drift sand beaches fringed with waving island Nusa Ceningan and take palm trees, pristine seas that change in a spectacular sunset from colour from green to deep blue, and Ceningan Ridge for maximum RAJA an amazing underwater life of giant romance. turtles, dolphins, manta rays, dugongs AMPAT The abundance of natural and occasionally, whales. Derawan is resources that make up Raja indeedand barracudas, one of the stingless world’s jellyfishrichest areas Ampat archipelago is found in bio-diversity. Small wonder that the not only in its waters, but also Derawan Islands are considered the on land. The land contour third best dive destination in the world. without mount or mountains Located just away from the mainland of exceeding 1000 meter above in the district of Berau, the sea level makes this a the Derawan archipelago comprises 31 geographical, as well as a islands, most well known among these national treasure. are the islands of Derawan, Maratua, Sangalaki and .

88 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION CULTURAL SPOTS

SURFING AND WATER SPORT ACTIVITY

GILI The is a cluster Located in North Sumatra, Nias of three small islands — Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air frontiers. It receives similar swell — located just off the northwest tois onethe Mentawaisof Indonesia’s and last enjoys surfing a peak coast of Lombok, Indonesia. swell season from May to September. The islands are a popular Despite Indonesia’s reputation for to a break in the called “The destination for tourists looking hollow lefts, right-handers are slightly Keyhole”, which will spare you from for an isolated experience, as more prevalent in North Sumatra. getting over the sand bar no matter civilization has yet to encroach (the bay in which the how big the obstacle. The reef itself upon the island’s natural beauty. famous right unrolls) has become Each island has several small a starting point towards those new spots in Indonesia. The corals are resorts, usually consisting of a abundantis safe compared but not to aggressive. other surfing Because collection of huts for tourists, a more than twenty surfers at a time in of the geographical position of the small pool and restaurant. awaves. line-up, As evena result, in peak one seasons.seldom finds The archipelago, this cluster of islands Nias wave operates perfectly from provides one of the most interesting 2 to 15 feet. Access is easy thanks views in the world.

CANGGU BEACH

Famous among surfers, Canggu Beach has three spots: Echo Beach, Sand Bar and Bombies. Situated in west of Denpasar City, Bali, this beach is dominated by big and powerful waves suitable for adventurous surfers. It also features an amazing view of the Indian Ocean, with white sandy beaches that stretch from Beach all the way to the west end of the island. Experienced surfers will fall in love with the challenge of its big rolling waves.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 89 BEACH AND SURROUNDINGS

BANDANEIRA Little Bandaneira has always been the Bandas ’ main port and administrative centre of Maluku. In the Dutch era, the townsfolk virtually bankrupted themselves maintaining a European lifestyle in spacious mansions that needed rebuilding whenever Gunung Api’s volcanic huffs burnt them down. Today, Bandaneira’s becak It’s a charming place to wander aimlessly, admire late-colonial houses, ponder moulderingsleepy, flower-filled ruins, watch streets glorious are so cloudscapesquiet that two over Gunung count Api as aand traffic stumble jam. across the odd historic cannon lying randomly on your path.

MANDEH SEA PARK Mandeh is a tourism destination BITUNG located at Koto XI (nine) in Tarusan Bitung is a city on the northern coast sub-district, directly bordering the of the island of Sulawesi, and is one of capital city of West Sumatra, Padang. A North Sulawesi’s more touristic sites. 70-minute drive from Padang, Mandah It faces both Lembeh Island and the boasts natural hills and a beautiful Lembeh Strait, which is known for their bay decorated by clusters of small colorful marine life – with sea slugs BATU KARAS BEACH islands located in the middle of Carocok being the popular feature. A coastal area, Batu Karas beach is coral reefs area, it currently maintains TRADITIONAL actually a blend between the nearby 70Tarusan hectare-worth Bay. Known of thisspecifically beautiful for its Beach and the Batu Hiu LIHAGA ISLAND underwater ecosystem. Beach – each offering both calm waters VILLAGE and challenging waves, making it a good Lihaga Island is located in Linkupang, Minahasa in South Sulawesi, Indonesia. Located about 40 kilometres away, or It is a remote island with no hotels, aboutfit for bothan-hour swimmers drive, from and Pangandaran,surfers alike. resorts or any vehicles of any sort. Thus, West Java, this uniquely black sandy Lihaga offers pure tranquillity with its beach is a perfect getaway as it is less pristine white sandy beach. If you’re crowded compared to Pangandaran taking anything away from here, make itself. Some has even dubbed this sure it’s just photographs. little alcove as little Bali since it offers a similar experience, but with fewer disturbances.

90 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION CULTURAL SPOTS HISTORICAL PLACE

MARITIME MUSEUM The Maritime Museum is located in the old Sunda Kelapa harbour area of Old Town Jakarta. Inaugurated in the former Dutch East India Company’s warehouse, the museum focuses on the Indonesia’s MERU TEMPLE maritime history and the importance Meru temple is the largest and most popular temple for the Hindu of the sea to the economy of present- people of Lombok, Indonesia. Built by Anak Agung Made Karangasem day Indonesia. The museum displays in 1720, the temple is a combination of a number of small palaces and a symbol of his power. Overtime, not only has the temple become of maritime objects. It also houses the a sacred place for the Hindu people, it has also become the area’s models of fishing boats and a myriad celebrated pinisi schooners of the Bugis most popular destination. The temple is divided into three main people of South Sulawesi, which, at yards: Nista Mandala, Madya Mandala and Utama Mandala. Each present, make up one of the oldest sea- yard is divided by a brick wall that features two wooden doors, all of which sport familiar Balinese engravings. going sailing fleets in the world.

BENA TRADITIONAL VILLAGE A traditional village named Bena is a mandatory visit for those visiting the island of Flores in East Nusa Tenggara (NTT). Here, time seems to stop at Stone Age. Enjoy the impressive hospitality of its people. Share the red smiles they sport on their mouth by chewing the local betel nut. Take your time absorbing the luxury and splendor of

found in Bena. one of the more magnificent cultural heritage

TRADITIONAL ASMAT The Asmat are an ethnic group residing in East VILLAGE Papua, Indonesia. The Asmat inhabit a region on the island’s southwestern coast bordering the Arafura Sea, with a landmass totalling at approximately 18,000 square kilometres (or 7,336 square mile). Consisting HIGHLANDS of mangrove, tidal swamp, freshwater swamp, and Hidden among the rising 2,500-meter mountains in lowland , the land of the Asmat is located the Baliem Valley in central Papua, the town called both within and adjacent to , Wamena was once hailed as the other Shangrila. Among advanced travellers, this is the other ultimate The total Asmat population is estimated to be around trekkers’ rendezvous. 70,000.the largest The protected term “Asmat” area isin usedthe Asia-Pacific to refer both region. to the people and the region they inhabit.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 91 CULTURE SPOT

MANGROVE ECOPARK – ANCOL Taman Wisata Alam Angke Kapuk is an attractive destination. Located not too far from Pantai Indah Kapuk, MERU BETIRI NATIONAL PARK Taman Wisata Alam Angke Kapuk in Meru Betiri National park is a large natural North Jakarta is a natural conservatory reserve located on the southern coast of Jember that is based on the development of Regency in East Java. It spans an area of 580 ecotourism, social empowerment, square kilometres and boasts varying topography culture and education. It boasts about from sandy, coastal plains, to highlands of over 99.82 hectares of area, most of which 1,000 metres. The park takes its name from the two mountains located within its compound: Mount Meru, measuring 500 metres above sea are filled with mangrove trees. level, and Mount Betiri, 1,192 metres above sea NATIONAL level and the highest point of the park. PARK NATIONAL PARK

Tanjung Puting is the largest and most diverse protected example of extensive coastal tropical heath and that used to cover much of southern Borneo. The area was originally declared as a game reserve in 1935 and later a National Park in 1982. While the Park has a checkered history of weak protection, it remains substantially wild and natural nonetheless. Tanjung Puting is covered by a complex mosaic of diverse lowland habitats. It contains 3,040 square kilometers (or 1,174 square miles) of low lying swampy terrain punctuated by blackwater rivers that flow into the Java Sea.

92 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION HOTEL

JAVA COVE BEACH HOTEL NOVOTEL MAULANA HOTEL JavaCove Beach Hotel is located in the One of few starred hotels in Balikpapan, This rebuilt Dutch-colonial hotel has relaxed coastal village of Batu Karas Novotel offers the ultimate services and a lovely veranda overlooking the on the South coast of West Java, 35 suites for business or travelling. waterfront that sits between palm and kilometre from the popular domestic shaggy ketapang trees. The best views tourism beaches of Pangandaran. Jl. Brigjen Ery Suparjan No. 2 Balikpapan larger, splashier rooms were under Batu Karas Street, Cijulang, Ciamis Tel: +62 542 820 820 renovationare from the at top-floor research suites, time. while the West Java Fax: +62 542 732 999 Tel: +62 265 708 2020 Jl. Maulana, Nusantara RT 3, Banda Neira Maluku Tel: +62 910 21022 FOODS & BEVERAGES

RIA BEACH – ENDE RODA STREET This beach boasts some breathtaking A place famous with views during the day, whereas, at night, traditional coffee stalls offers a lively seafood street market. along with assorted Manado Everything here is caught fresh from traditional food. Located in the sea. Just ask the chef how you want Central Manado, go directly your seafood cooked and sit back and to the alley near President relax as you enjoy your meal.

Plaza to find it. UBUD BLAURAN MARKET MARKET There is something undeniably iconic foods in Blauran street, Central Surabaya. about Ubud’s main market. Located HereYou’ll are find just any some kind ofof theSurabaya unique style treats in the centre of city, this easy-to-find available: klanting, lontong balap, rujak market is where the locals buy their cingur, rujak gobet, tahu campur, tahu tek, daily groceries, as well as where they semanggi suroboyo, dawet, legen and dawet go for some local lunch like nasi ayam campur. At night, this place becomes and babi guling. even more rowdy.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 93 CULTURE SPOT

FESTIVAL

SINGKAWANG CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATION

Known for its production of fine Chinese ceramics and its hundreds of Chinese temples, Singkawang traditionally holds a lantern parade on the eve Cap Go Meh. The peak of the festival and of the entire Chinese New Year series of celebrations will then climax in a parade of the ancient art of Tatung. Intended to repel misfortunes for the rest of the year, Tatung is the principle medium of the Cap Go Meh ritual. During the Tatung rituals, its participants will enter into a trance and perform many unbelievable stunts such as stepping on a sword or sticking steel wires or nails into their cheeks. What is perhaps most extraordinary is that, despite such torture, the Tatungs are not wounded or even scarred. SEMANA SANTA

Each year, during the week before Easter Sunday, the town of Larantuka, East Flores, solemnly celebrates the Holy Week, popularly known here as “Semana Santa”. During this special week, thousands of pilgrims from Flores Java, Bali as well as many international tourists, throng this small city to watch Larantuka’s unique commemoration of the Holy Week, which blends Old Portuguese devotion with local tradition. It’s one of a kind.

94 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION Lamalera – Traditional HUNTING WHALE The people in Lamalera – Maluku mainly hunt sperm whales and orcas. Before the hunt, hunters hold a prayer ceremony and sing songs about the mother sea as The Lamalera’s people, the lamafa, believe it is bad luck to go to the sea angry. The hunting season is between May and October.

SAIL MOROTAI

Sail Morotai is an international sailing event held by in cooperation with the Indonesian Ministry of Maritime Affairs, Indonesian Maritime Board, and a number of other government agencies. More than 100 participants from various countries across the world has partook in the event, with many more expected to come in upcoming events.

INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 95 MAP

7. Bali. An island and 10. Koto Masjid Fish province of Indonesia, Market. Koto Masjid famous for its beautiful Village, Kampar travel destinations. Regency, West Sumatra 8. Penyengat Island. 11. Banda Neira Fish An island in Riau Market. Banda Neira Province, lies just off Island, Molucca Bintan Island, close to Province. Tanjung Pinang 12. Bersehati Fish Market. 13 9. Muara Angke Fish Jl. Nusantara, Manado, Market. Jl. Dermaga North Sulawesi. I Muara Angke, Pluit, 13. Weh Islands. Northwest Weh Island Penjaringan, North Jakarta of Sumatra, Indonesia.

18 8 10 Nias Island Penyengat Riau Island 23 6

Mandeh Sea Park Pariaman

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Barito Bengkulu

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17 20 1 19 7 4 15 1. Trowulan. Mojokerto 4. Seger Beach. Lombok, Batu Karas Mojokerto 25 Regency, East Java. approximately 2 Bali kilometres from the Nusa 2. Komodo Islands. East Lembongan east of Kuta Beach. Lombok Nusa Tenggara. 5. Bengkulu. A province of 3. Muara Kuin and Lok Indonesia on the Baintan Floating southwest coast of the Market. At the mouth of island of Sumatra. the River Barito Kuin, Banjarmasin, 6. Pariaman. A coastal city South Kalimantan in West Sumatra.

96 INDONESIANA - 2nd EDITION 14. Derawan. Islands in 17. Gili. An archipelago of 21. Bitung. A city on the Kelapa harbour area of the province of East three small islands in northern coast of the Old Town Jakarta. Kalimantan. Located in the West Nusa Tenggara. island of Sulawesi. the Sulawesi Sea, on 25. Meru Temple the coastal shelf of East 18. Nias. An island off 22. Lihaga Island. Jl. Selaparang, Kalimantan the western coast of Located in Likupang, Cakranegara, Mataram Sumatra. Minahasa, South City, West Nusa 15. Nusa Lembongan. An Sulawesi. Tenggara. island on the southeast 19. Canggu Beach. A beach of Bali. area in South Bali, north 23. Mandeh Sea Park. 26. Bena Traditional of Seminyak and south Located at Koto XI in Village. A traditional 16. Raja Ampat. An of . Tarusan sub-district, village in the Tiwuriwu archipelago located West Sumatra. Village, Aimere District, on the island of New 20. Batu Karas Beach. about 19 ​​km south Guinea, West Papua A coastal area in 24. Maritime Museum. Bajawa, Ngada, Flores. Province. West Java. Located in the old Sunda

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Derawan 12 Lihaga 21 Island Bersehati Fish 16 Market Bitung Raja Ampat

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Banda Neira Market

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Komodo Island INDONESIAN PINISI THE SEAFARING BEAST

MINISTRY OF EDUCATION & CULTURE, REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Directorate of Internalization of Values and Cultural Diplomacy Building E, Floor 10th, Jl. Jenderal Sudirman Kav. 4–5, Senayan, Jakarta T: (021) 5731063, (021) 5725035 | F: (021) 5731063, (021) 5725578 E: [email protected] | http://kebudayaan.kemdikbud.go.id

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