Cassis Twenty‐Three Shades of White
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8/20/2019 Cassis Twenty‐three Shades of White Elizabeth Gabay MW Wine Scholar Guild, 14 August 2019 Where in France? Cassis 1 8/20/2019 Cold Mistral Mont Ste Victoire Massif Ste Baume Humid maritime winds Cassis The Calanques are deep fjords 2 8/20/2019 Deep under sea trenches near the coast brings cold water and cool air up into the calanques 215 hectares of Cassis vineyards Cap Canaille, the highest maritime cliff in Europe at 394m Cassis is like a vast amphitheatre facing towards the sea. 3 8/20/2019 Only around 10% of the region has vineyards which can be divided into two 2. ‘Les Janots’ along a valley areas. orientated southwest‐north east and stretching from 1. ‘Le Plan’ located Bagnol to the Janots. The in the western part slopes face south east. Sites of Cassis and the called ‘Rompides’, ‘Pignier’ least intensly (gentle slopes). planted. The vineyards are on 3. «Revestel» flatter lands. under Cap Canaille the ‘Janots’ rise up to the slopes These vineyards and rocky cliffs of ‘La Saoupe’ generally face east and ‘Le Baou Redon’. south east. These vineyards generally face west north west. Gravel, large ‘galets’ Reef limestone and limestone Clay and Calcaire limestone Three Zones 1. in the west, a flat surface bordering Cassis in the direction of Bédoule, a low calcareous brown soil developed on alluvium. 4 8/20/2019 2. the valley of Rompides, Bagnol Janots, through the Crown of Charlemagne. It is a basin with two types of exposure, South‐West and North‐East, and a variable gradient, increasing on the south‐east side of the Rompides. The soils are shallow, but richer in limestone than the previous ones, because of the slight slope. Also some schist. 3. from Janots to Revestel, under the rocky bar of Cape Canaille, and ends at the foot of the Cape, by very steep slopes, and vineyards cultivated in terraces. The steep slopes favouring erosion, soils here are very limestone, excellent quality. Geologically part of the same rock mass as Cap Corse in Corsica. Limestone calcium from marine shells and corals. Limestone is a type of sedimentary rock. Sedimentation can take place at the site of the source or at a completely different location. Sediments can be transported by water, wind, ice etc. Clay, silt and sand from rivers together with remains of marine organisms and iron oxides are the most commonly found impurities in limestone. 5 8/20/2019 Some History…. 1430: vineyards already mentioned in the south east of the region 1442: introduction of the variety muscatel reputedly by the king René 1520: the Florentine family ALBIZZI arrives in Cassis and continue to plant the muscatel Throughout the 16th century vineyards are planted reaching up to 200ha with around a quarter of the production going to rich muscat wines. 1786 – 1788: the Swiss traveller John Fisch commented favourably on the wines of Cassis. 1880s: Phylloxera. Vineyards replanted without Muscat. 1929: Vineyards completely rennovated. Clairette and Marsanne became increasingly important 1936: 15 May, Cassis became one of the first regions to receive its own appellation. 1959: Vineyards cover 240 ha 1978: plantings decreased to 200 ha 2009: Plantings increasing to 204 ha including 10ha of new vines. White wine – 67% of production There are two principal varieties: Clairette and Marsanne which, together or singly, must make up 60% or more of the vines planted with Marsanne having between 30‐80% of the plantations. And five secondary varieties: Bourboulenc (locally known as Doucillon Blanc), Sauvignon Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Pascal Blanc and Terret Blanc. Terret Blanc must be 5% or less of the plantations. NB the percentages refer to the percentage of vines planted NOT the percentage of the variety in the wine blend. 6 8/20/2019 Clairette Recorded history going back to 1500s. Used to make Vermouth due to its high sugar and low acidity.. NB The white wines Clairette de Bellegarde and Clairette du Languedoc are made entirely from Clairette and is one of the thirteen grape varieties permitted in the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation. Clairette can be flabby and prone to oxidise, so by the late 1990s, plantings were decreasing and replaced with Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussanne etc. It is often blended with high‐acid varieties such as Ugni Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. Improved winemaking techniques and a greater understanding of Clairette have helped vintners to retain maximum acidity. Pruning to reduce yields Harvesting earlier Clairette can show juicy apple, peach, and herbal notes. It also has a distinct bitterness, which, in place of acidity can give the wine a final lift. Marsanne It is a principal component of the whitewinesfromthenorthern Rhone where it is often blended with Roussanne, in Saint‐Péray AOC still and sparkling wines and in some wines in the southern Rhone but NOT in Châteauneuf‐du‐Pape AOC. 7 8/20/2019 Marsanne is prone to under perform in less than ideal sites. In climates that are too hot, the grape can overripen and produce wine that is very flabby. In places that are too cool, the grape cannot ripen fully and produces wine with a bland and neutral flavour. In order to maintain a high level of acidity, winemakers try to harvest Marsanne just before it hits full ripeness. There are experiments in some regions to try later harvesting for richer fruit. Marsanne produces deeply coloured wines that are rich and nutty, with hints of spice and pear. The wines can be high in alcohol and can be aged in oak. As Marsanne ages, the wine takes on an even darker colour and the flavours can become more complex and concentrated with an oily, honeyed texture. Aromas of nuts and quince can also develop. Bourboulenc Offers good yields and resistance to botrytis. It is a late ripening variety, and is particularly useful as it retains its acidity in the warm, dry Mediterranean climate. It is often part of a blend to provide balanced citrus acidity and structure to the wine. Can contribute some spicy flavour characters and is prone to oxidation with age Examples of 100% Bourboulenc, for example, Chateau Rouquette Sur Mer Blanc and Chateau d’Angeles, which both make wine in the La Clape region of the Languedoc. Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano) Most widely planted variety in France, partly because it is one of the base varieties for Cognac and Armagnac. In Italy it is used for Balsamic vinegar. It retains its acidity, in maritime regions the acidity is described as slightly sour and salty, but this is balanced by ripe softness in Cassis. In Provence it is traditionally used to give balanced acidity with notes of green pears, quince and lemon. Late ripening, it grows well on limestone. 8 8/20/2019 Not just white wine is made • Rosé • Red • Since 2009, rosé has grown to represent • Represents 3% of production. around 30% of production. • Principal varieties (equal to or more than 70% of the plantings) are: • The principal varieties (equal to or more • Cinsaut, Grenache Noir and Mourvèdre than 70% of the vines planted) are: • Cinsault, Grenache noir and Mourvèdre • Secondary varieties • Barbaroux, Carignan and Terret Noir (5% • Secondary varieties (equal to or less or less of the plantings) than 20% of the vines planted) are: • Barbaroux, Bourboulenc, Carignan, Clairette, Marsanne, Pascal Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Terret Noir (equal to or less than 5% of the vines planted) 9 8/20/2019 210 hectares under vine Difficult to expand vineyards beyond the 265 ha – competing with urbanisation. and National Park of the Calanques about 1 million bottles a year roughly equivalent to one bottle per vine 75% of vineyards are registered organic CLOS D'ALBIZZI The Albizzis, a family of powerful Florentine nobles, created the Domaine in the 16th century. In 1730 the domaine passed on to the Dumons by marriage. 14 hectares on red clay and white gravel. Zone 1 on the flatter slopes. Albissi has a lot of water underneath the vineyards ‐ underground river ‐ possibly from Ste Baume. White: 34% Clairette, 33% Marsanne, 33% Ugni Blanc. Ambient yeast. Aged in cement tanks Cuvée Athais 70% Clairette, 30% Marsanne. Aged in new oak in demi‐muids from Vosges a fast growing oak, large grain, better oxidation, less oak character. Choose medium long toast. 10 8/20/2019 CLOS VAL BRUYÈRE (CHATEAU BARBANAU, COTES DE PROVENCE) Sophie is the great‐granddaughter of Émile Bodin (see Château de Fontblanche). She runs the estate with husband Didier Simonini. About 7 hectares, biodynamic. Kalahari: 30% Clairette, 30% Marsanne, 30% Sauvignon Blanc parcel selection. 28hl/ha. Skin contact maceration. Fermentation and maturation of 12 months on fine lees in barrels. Clos Val Bruyère: 30% Ugni Blanc, 30% Clairette, 30% Marsanne, 10% Sauvignon. 35hl/ha. Skin maceration. Temperature controlled fermentation 11 8/20/2019 DOMAINE DU PATERNEL Three generations of the Santini family have succeeded each other at the head of this vineyard, which stretches out over the hillsides. 50 hectares on clay and limestone. Vineyards on the drier hillside have a higher percentage of Clairette which balances the softness of the Clairette giving more stony, austere fruit and a dry, clean and direct finish when young. Paternel Blanc de Blancs: 38% Clairette, 31% Marsanne, 27% Ugni Blanc and 4% Bourboulenc, Paternel Esprit de Famile: 42% Clairette, 30% Marsanne, 21% Ugni Blanc and 7% Sauvignon Blanc. • The Clairette vines come from deep clay and limestone soils on the hillsides. The Marsanne from the bottom of the valley where the soil is damper and more mineral. • The Ugni Blanc are the oldest vines at 35‐40 years old. • The Sauvignon Blanc from cool, clay soils with a northerly exposure.